
, l^. . fiih f.y. '>.K ^\ '■'y,v./''ii > ," . .. hV 




THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE 



HARDER S BOOK 



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AN Cookery 



; IW SIX irOLUMES ) 



VOLUNIK I 



Treating of American Vegetables, and all Alimentary Plants, 

, / ^'^ • Roots and Seeds. 

if' : 



rl' 



Containing a Description of the Best Varieties, Mode of Cul- 

THE Art of Pr 
FOR THE Table 



TIVATION, AND THE ArT OF PREPARING THEM 



Designed for the Use of Families, Hotels and Restaurants 



/ 



By JULES ARTHUR HARDER 

Chef de Cuisine, Palace Hotel 



SAN FRANCISCO 

1885 




^ 



^"^.^ 



^' 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1885, by 

Jules Arthur Harder, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, T>. C. 



SltbkatioiL 



A friendship of many years' duration, and an appreciation of his kindly 

and generous disiDosition, as well as of his cultivated 

taste, impel me to dedicate 



THESE VOLUMES 



ALEXANDER DUMAS SHARON, Esquire 



-Notable among the whole-souled Californians who have kept step with 
the spirit and progress of the age. 



PREFACE. 



'•'What ! " — the reader may exclaim — "Another book on cookery! 
Have we not Careme and Francatelli, Vatel and Soyer, Ude and 
Oouffd, Miss Acton and Mrs. Beeton, Meg Dodds and Mrs. Hale, 
and scores of other authorities on the same subject ? Must every 
cook be an author, and we be asked to read his book, as well as to 
eat of the dishes he prepares ? " Gentle reader, it is to anticipate 
this possible state of mind, and to answer these probable questions, 
that this explanatory preface is submitted. Many a dish is cooked 
that is not worth the time and trouble , even by an ordinarily edu- 
cated palate, given to its discussion, and many a book written — 
esi3ecially on the subject of Cookery — the reading of which is worse 
than time wasted. There have been innumerable Cook Books for 
popular use published, I grant you; but if you ask nine out of ten 
persons who consult them, they will tell you they become more 
and more perplexed as they attempt to follow their guidance. 
The housekeeper will confess she has been led into errors by their 
vague recipes, injurious to the family health, and, at the same time, 
expensive to the family purse. It is to dissipate this fog enveloping 
the literature of the kitchen that the publication of the Book of 
American Practical Cookery is undertaken. The author claims 
that the work is the result of a lifetime of study, constant observa- 
tion, and practical experience in the best culinary establishments 
of both Continents. He, therefore, brings to his task a thorough 
knowledge of the subject, and asserts, fearless of successful contra- 
diction, that the result of his labors will bo the only competent 
treatise — applying culinary science especially to the material condi- 
tions of this country — ever written. He intends it for a trustworthy 
guide to all what to eat and drink, and what to avoid. 



VI PREFACE. 

In pursuance of the plan laid down, lie proposes to embrace' 
the whole list of food articles, their selection, treatment, and best, 
method of preparing them for the table, showing how the utmost 
value can be obtained from every edible designed by the Almighty 
for the comfort and nourishment of mankind. It is due to the 
intelligence of the present age that there should no longer be room 
for the old sneer of the dyspeptic cynic: " God sends the material,, 
but the Devil sends cooks." 

To accomplish this important object will require at least six 
volumes. Marie Antoine Careme, the great French cook, who lived 
between the years 1784 and 1833, and who was called the "regen- 
erator of cookery," took twelve volumes to give Europe of his day 
the information which the author of the present series proposes to 
give America of the present, in six. Each volume of the Ameeican.. 
Practical Cookery series will be devoted to a leading food staple. 
This, the first volume, deals with vegetables and all alimentary 
plants, roots, and seeds grown on the American continent, with full 
remarks of the best varieties, their mode of cultivation, cooking, 
dishing, and other matters of interest connected with this branch of 
the culinary art — one, by the way, of no small importance, but to 
which generally scant attention is paid by the household, and even 
by the club and hotel, cook. 

It comes quite in place here to give a few cursory hints on the 
subject-matter more definitely and precisely stated in the body of 
this volume. In preparing all alimentary plants for the table, the 
best, freshest, and those in season, should always be chosen. Stale 
or decayed vegetables, or those that have been overheated in pack- 
ing, or bruised in transportation, are unwholesome. Avoid them 
if you value your health. Preserved vegetables should not be used 
for the table, if they can be possibly declined. Where their use: 
cannot be avoided, be careful to select those put up at creditable 
establishments, with the name of the proprietor or company, and 
the quality of the goods marked plainly on the package. Often 
flashy and picturesque labels conceal germs of disease, in the shape 
of imperfectly preserved vegetables, sufiicient to cause an epidemic. 
Vegetables should only be freely eaten in the spring, becaUse most 
kinds are then seasonable, and consequently wholesome and nutri- 
tious. Some of the few fall varieties are improved by light frosts^ 



PEEFACE. vii 

Vegetables forced in liot-liouses are uot as good as those grown in 
tlie open air, and subjected to ordinary natural conditions. Tlie 
variety of climate with which the United States is blessed, promotes 
tlie growth of every variety of fruit and vegetable known in the 
world, and the facilities for transportation put nearly every section 
of our country on the same footing, so far as the enjoyment at their 
best of the products of each is concerned. 

In cooking vegetables, good pure water is essential. To cook 
green vegetables properly, they should be put into a vessel while 
the water is boiling — the pot remaining uncovered. By this means 
they will retain their natural color. Vegetables can be served witn 
each course, or alone, before or after the roast. It is better that 
they precede the roast, as the appetite is thereby improved for the 
course that follows. Too many vegetables should not be served 
with a dinner. They ought to be selected with care according to 
the course they accompany. These hints, although general, will 
serve a good purpose in awakening attention. 

In conclusion, the author may, without egotism, again state, that 
he feels confident in his ability to make this series on American 
Practical Cookery a standard work, because he is ^practically 
acquainted with the details of every branch on which he writes, 
and, at the same time, familiar with the broader requirements of 
the culinary profession. A chief cook, besides being versed in the 
technique of the kitchen, should also be a good judge of the kinds, 
qualities and uses of every dietetic article. As the old Greek comic 
poet Dionysius, says: 

" To roast some beef, to carve witli neatness, 
To blow up sauces, and to blow the fire, 
Is anybody's task; he who does this 
Is but a seasoner and a broth-maker. 
A cook is quite another thing. His mind 
Must comprehend all facts and circumstances. 
Where is the place, and what the time of supper, 
Who are the guests, and who the entertainer, 
What fish he ought to buy, and where he ought to buy it," etc. 

The author does not expect to realize a fortune by this publica- 
tion. The work is, in a degree, a labor of love, prompted as much 
by a desire to benefit the culinary art, as by any other feeling. But 



vm PEEFACE. 

thougli his reward may not reach the munificent one of Antony's 
cook, who received a city for his skill in arranging a Cleopatra ban- 
quet, he feels assured at least of the gratitude of all those who wish 
to intelligently enjoy the pleasures of the table, and of the hearty 
appreciation of his fellow-workers in the important field of culinary 

science. 

J. A. H. 



NOTE, 



BS" The entire work on " Ameeioan Peaotical Cookeey," now in course of preparation by Mr. 
Harder, will consist of six volumes, each devoted to a particular article of food — soups, fish, flesh, 
fowl, farinace, sauces, conserves, liqueurs, &c. — and each treated in the same thoroughly exhaustive 
manner exemplified in this, the first of the series. Prefixed, is a glossary of such technical terms 
and phrases as occur in the text of this volume, and which the general reader may have need to 
consult. A copious index will also facilitate reference to the different details of the subjects treated. 
Due notice will be given of the appearance of Volume 11 of the series. 



INDEX TO ARTICLES. 



ENGLISH. 



PAGE 

Alecost 134 

Alexanders 1 

Alkekeiigi 345 

Allspice. 5 

A mbrosia 1 

Angelica 2 

Anise •. 3 

Aromatic Herbs 4 

Aromatic Nigelle 5 

Arrow-Root Plant 193 

Artichoke , 6 

Asparagus 18 

Asparagus Bean 26 

Balm 26" 

Balm-mint 27 

Barley 27 

Basil, Sweet 29 

Bay Leaves (Common) 30 

Bay Leaves (Larustine) 30 

Beans 30 

Beets 47 

Bene 51 

Black Salsify 321 

Boletus (Esculent) 52 

Borage 53 

Borecole 176 

Briar Leaves 53 

IBrocoli 53 

Brookline 55 

Brussels Sprouts 55 

Buck's-horn 57 

Buckwheat 57 

£ugloss 59 



PAGE 

Burnet 59 

Cabbage 60 

Calabash . . . . : 75 

Calamint 75 

Cantaloupe 75 

Capers 78 

Capillary 78 

Caraway 79 

Cardoon 79 

Carrot 83 

Caterpillar 89 

Catnip 89 

Catsup. 89 

Cauliflower 90 

Celeriac 94 

Celery 97 

Centaury 105 

Cepes 208 

Chamomile 105 

Chervil 106 

Chestnut 106 

Chick Pea 108 

Chickling Wetch 109 

Chicoree 157 

Chiccory 109 

Chinese Spinach 109 

Chinese Yam, or Potato 110 

Chives 110 

Chives (Common) Ill 

Chufa Ill 

Cicely, Sweet 112 

Cinnamon 112 

Clary 112 



INDEX TO ARTICLES. 



PAGE 

Clavaria 113 

Cloves 113 

Cocks-lieacl, Plantain 57 

Cocoa 113 

Coffee 116 

Colt's-foot (Common) , . 119 

Common Gourds 75 

Coqiielicot 120 

Coriander 120 

Corn 122 

Corn Poppy 120 

Corn Salad 121 

Cos Lettuce 133 

Costmary . 134 

Couch Grass 133 

Cranberry 134 

Cress (Garden) 136 

Cress (Pepper) 135 

Cress, (Water) 136 

Cuckoo-flower Cress 145 

Cucumber 137 

Cumin 145 

Curcuma 373 

Curry 145 

Dandelion 146 

Diet Drinks 147 

Dill 147 

Earth Nut Ill 

Egg Plant 151 

Egyptian Cucumber. ........ 156 

Egyptian Pea 108 

Elderberries 156 

Elecampane 157 

Endive 157 

Eschalot ' 326 

Essences 165 

Extracts 165 

Earina 160 

Eecula. 163 

Fennel (Sweet) 164 

Flavors 165 

Flour 165 

Garbure 166 

Garlic 166 



PAGE, 

Gherkin 167 

Ginger 167 

Globe Cucumber 168 

Goose-foot 168 

Graham Flour 169 

Green Peppers 253 

Gumbo 223 

Herbs 169 

Hoarhound 173 

Hollyhock 171 

Hoosung 171 

Hops 171 

Horse-Kadish 173 

Hj'ssop 175 

Indian Star Anise-seed 175 

Iris Boot 239 

Japan Pea 175 

Jasmine 176 

Jerusalem Artichokes 17 

Juniper 176 

Kale 17& 

Kohl-Rabi 380 

Lamb Lettuce 121 

Laurel Leaves (Common) 30 

Laurel Leaves (Larustine) . . . 30' 

Lavender 178 

Leek 178 

Lens 180 

Lentil 180 

Lettuce 182, 

Licorice 189 

Lima Beans 189 

Lime Tree 191 

Linden Tree 191 

Lovage 191 

Lupine 191 

Mace 192 

Madras Kadish 192 

Mallow (Curled leaved) 193 

Manioca 351 

Maranta 193 

Marjoram 194 

Marsh Mallow 195 

Medical Herbs 4 



INDEX TO AKTICLES. 



XI 



PAGE 

Mellilot 196 

Mint 196 

Morel 197 

Mountain Spinach 237 

Mullein 199 

Mullen 199 

Mushrooms 199 

Muskmelon 211 

Mustard 215 

Nasturtium 217 

Nettle 218 

New Zealand Spinach 219 

Nutmeg, 219 

Oak(common wall Germander) 220 

Oats 221 

Okra 223 

Onions 225 

Oosung , 171 

Orach 237 

Orris 239 

Oxalis 239 

Oyster Plant 316 

Pak-choi 240 

Palmate leaved Ehubarb .... 240 

Palm Cabbage 240 

Parsley 241 

Parsnips 242 

Patience . .. 24,4l 

Peanuts 245 

Peas 246 

Pennyroyal 253 

Pepper 253 

Pepper Grass 135 

Peppermint 258 

Persian Melons 75 

Pickles 259 

Picridium 260 

Pigeon Berry 260 

Pi-Tsai 259 

Poke 260 

Poppy 261 

Portugal Cabbage 261 

Potatoes 262 

Pot Herbs 4 



PAGE 

Pumpkin 281 

Purslain 283 

Eadish 283 

Rampion 288 

Rampiou or Primrose 289 

Eape 289 

Bed Cabbage 290 

Ehubarb 290 

Eice 293 

Eocambole 308 

Eocket 308 

Romaine 133 

Eose Mallow 171 

Eosemary 309 

Eue 310 

Eussian Turnip 310 

Euta Baga 310 

Eye 311 

Saffron , 312 

Sage 313 

Sago 314 

Salad Garnitures 316 

Salep 318 

Salsify .... 316 

Salt 319 

Saltpeter 319 

Samphire 319 

Savory 320 

Savoy Cabbage 321 

Scorzonara 321 

Scurvy Grass 322 

Sea Beet 322 

Sea Fennel 319 

Sea Kale 323 

Sea Kale Beet 350 

Semoule 324 

Shallot 326 

Shepherd's Purse 327 

Sieva 328 

Skirret 328 

Small Lima Bean 328 

Snake Cucumber 329 

Sorrel 329 

Southerwood 332 



Xll 



INDEX TO ARTICLES. 



PAGE 

Spanish Lentil 109 

Spanish Oyster Plant 333 

Spearmint 333 

Speedwell. 55 

Spices 334 

Spinach 336 

Spinach (Chinese) 109 

Spinnage 336 

Squash ■ • 339 

.Strawberry Tomato 345 

Succory 109 

Swedish Turnip 310 

Sweet Cicely 112 

Sweet Fennel 164 

Sweet Potatoes 346 

Sweet Scented Chervil . , 112 

Swiss Chard 350 

Tansy 350 

Tapioca . . 351 

Tare 401 

Tarragon 352 

Tea 352 

Thyme 355 

Tisanes 147 

Tomato 355 



PAGE 

Tonka Bean 368 

Truffles 368 

Tuberous Rooted Chickling 

Wetch, orPea 372 

Tuberous Rooted Wood Sorrel 239 

Turmeric 373 

Turnip 373 

Turnip Cabbage 380 

Turnip Rooted Celery. 94 

Turnip Rooted Chervil 382 

Unicorn Root 382 

Valerian 383 

Vanilla 383 

Vegetables, 384 

Venus Hair 78 

Vetch 401 

Water Cress 136 

Watermelon 401 

Welsh Onion 110 

Wheat 404 

White Quinoa 168 

Winged Pea 407 

Wit Loef 407 

Wood Sorrel 407 

Wormwood 408 



FREMCH. 



Absinthe 408 

Achars . 167 

Ail 166 

Alisandre 1 

Amarante 109 

Ambrosie 1 

Aneth 147 

Angelique 2 

Angelique a feuille d'ache . . . 191 

Anis 3 

AuisEtoile 175 

Anserine ,. . . 168 

Arachis 245 



Armoise 408 

Arroche 237 

Arrowroot 193 

Artichaut 6 

Asperge 18 

Aubergine 151 

Auuee 157 

Aurome Citronnelle 332 

Avoine (Farine 'd) 221 

Badiane 175 

Basilic 29 

Baume 26 

Ben 51 



INDEX TO ARTICLES. 



XllL 



PAGE 

Berle Cliervi 328 

Bette 322 

Betterave 47 

Ble noir 57 

Bouillon Blanc 199 

Bourraclie 53 

Bug-lose 59 

Cafe 116 

Calament 75 

Calamus 75 

Camomille 105 

Canneberge 134 

Cannelle 112 

Cantaloup 75 

Capillaire 78 

Capre •. 78 

Capselle 327 

Capucine 217 

Carde Poiree 350 

Cardon ... 79 

Carrotte 83 

Carvi - 79 

Catsup 89 

Ceieri 97 

Celeri Eave 94 

Centauree 105 

Cepes 52 

Cerfeuil 106 

Cerfeuil Odorant 112 

Cerfeuil enracine 382 

Champignon 199 

Champignon (Clavaria) 113 

Chataigue 106 

Chiche 108 

Chiccoree 109 

Chicoree 157 

Chiendent ..... 133 

Choufleur , 90 

Chou Eave 380 

Chou Savoy 321 

Choux Brocoli 53 

Choux de Bruxelles 55 

Choux Marins 323 

Choux Palmiste 240 



PAGE 

Choux Pi Tsai 259 

Choux Pommd 60 

Choux Portugais 261 

Choux Eouge 290 

Choux Vert 176 

Ciboulette Ill 

Citrouille 75 

Citrouille 281 

Cive 110 

Civette 110 

Cochlearia 322 

Cocoa ou Coco 113 

Colza 289 

Concombre 137 

Concombre des Prophetes. . . 168 

Concombre Egyptien 156 

Concombre Serpentine .... 329 

Coquelicot 120 

Coriandre 120 

Corn de serf ; . . 57 

Cornichon 167 

Cornichon 259 

Courge 339 

Crambe Maritime 323 

Cresson 135 

Cresson Alenois de Jardin. . . 136 

Cresson de Fontaine 136 

Cresson elegant des pr^s 145 

Cressonnee Veronique 55 

Crete Marine 319 

Cumin 145 

Curcuma 373 

Echalote 326 

Epice 334 

Epinard 336 

Epinard belle dame 219 

Essence 165 

Estragon 352 

Farina 160 

Farine 165 

Farine Graham 169 

Fdcule 163 

Fenouil 164 

Feuille de Eonce 53 



XIV 



INDEX TO ARTICLES. 



PAGE 

Feve 189 

Feve (Petite) 328 

Fleur de Lis 239 

Fourniture de Salade 316 

Froment , 404 

Garbure 166 

Genievre 176 

Gerofle (clou de) , 113 

Gesse 109 

Gesse 372 

Gingembre 167 

Glan de terre Ill 

Gourge 339 

Graine de Surreau 156 

Guimauve 195 

Gumbo 223 

Haricot , . . . . 30 

Haricot Asperge 26 

Herbe 169 

Houplon 171 

Hysope 175 

Igname 110 

Iris 239 

Jasmin - . 176 

K ari 145 

Laitue 182 

Laurier Amande 30 

Laurier Franc ou d'Appolon.. 30 

Lavande 178 

Legume Yariee 384 

Lentilles 180 

Lupin 191 

Mache 121 

Macis 192 

Mais 122 

Manioc 351 

Marjolaine 194 

Marrube 173 

Mauve 193 

Melilot 196 

Melisse 27 

. Melon d'eau 401 

Melon Muscat 211 

Menthe 196 



PAGE 

Menthe Poivr^ 258 

Menthe Yerte 333 

Molene 199 

Morille 197 

Mousseron 199 

Mcutarde . . , 215 

Muscade (noix de) 219 

Navet 373 

Navet Eave 310 

Nepeta 89 

Oignon 225 

Oosung 171 

Orge 27 

Ortie 218 

Oseille 329 

Oseille Oxalide 407 

Oxalis 239 

Pak-choi 240 

Panais 242 

Patate 346 

Patience 244 

Pavot 261 

Persil 241 

Petits Chene 220 

Picridium 260 

Piment 5 

Piment Yert 253 

Pimprenelle 59 

Pisse en lit 146 

Plantain 57 

Plante et Herbes, Aromatic 

et Medicinal 4 

Poireau 178 

Pois 246 

Pois Japonais 175 

Pois Eame 407 

Poivre 253 

Pomme de terre 262 

Potiron 75 

Potiron gourge 281 

Pouliot 253 

Pourpier 283 

Primevere 289 

Quatre Epice 5 



INDEX TO AETICLES. 



XV 



PAGE 

Tladis 283 

Raclis Madras 192 

Haifort 173 

Eaiponce 288 

Eeglisse 189 

Ehubarbe 290 

Ehnbarbe des Moines 210 

Eiz 293 

Eocambole 308 

Romaiue 133 

Eomaine Blanche 407 

Eomarin 309 

Eoquette 308 

Eose Tremiere 171 

Eue 310 

Sachet 260 

Saffran 312 

Sagou 314 

Salep on Saloop 318 

Salpetre 319 

Salsifis 316 

Salsifis 333 

Sarrasin 57 

Sarriette 320 

Sauge .. -. 313 

Scarole 157 



PAGE 

Schire'e 112 

Scorpiure 89 

Scorsone're 321 

Seigle 311 

Sel 319 

Semoule 324 

Sieve (Petite Feve) 328 

Tanaisie 350 

Tanaisie Barbotine 134 

Tapioca 351 

The... 352 

Thym 355 

Tilleul 191 

Tisane 147 

Tomate 355 

Tomate (fraize) 345 

Tonka (Feve de) 368 

Topinambour 17 

Trufie 368 

Turmeric • 373 

Tussilage 119 

Unicorn 382 

Valeriane 383 

Vanille 383 

Yesce 401 



GERMAM. 



PAGE 

Adsung 171 

Alant 157 

Alantwurzel 157 

Amaranth 109 

Ambrosia 1 

Andorn 173 

x4.ngelika 2 

Anis 3 

Aromatishe und Medizinishe, 

Grauter 4 

Arrowmehl 193 

Artishoke '. . . 6 



PAGE 

Baldrian 383 

Barenzuker 189 

Basiliknm 29 

Bataten 346 

Baumgamander 220 

Bene 51 

Bind Salat 133 

Blatter Kohl 176 

Blankrant 290 

Blumen Kohl 90 

Bohne 30 

Bohne (Lima) 189 



XVI 



INDEX TO ARTICLES. 



Bohne (Sieva) .... 328 

Boretsch 53 

Brier blatter 53 

Brocoli 53 

Brminen Kresse 136 

Bucliweitzen 57 

Camomile . . 105 

Catchup 89 

Cepes 52 

Cepes 208 

Champignon 199 

Champignon (Clavaria) 113 

Chich 108 

Chineschen Kohl 259 

Cichorie 157 

Cigorien 109 

Cocoa 113 

Curcumei 373 

Diatetishe Getranke 147 

Dill 147 

Dragun 352 

Egyptishe Gurke 156 

Eierpflanze 151 

Einhornwurzel 382 

Endive 157 

Erbsen 246 

Erdartishoke 17 

Erdnus Ill 

Erdnus 245 

Ertshwamm 199 

Essiggurke 167 

Essiggurken 259 

Extrakt 165 

Farina 160 

Eecula 163 

Fenchel 164 

Forellen Salat 133 

Frauenhaar Syrup 78 

Frauenmiinze 134 

Frauenmimze 333 

Garbiir 166 

Gartenampfer 244 

Gartenkerbel 106 

Gartenmiinze 196 



PAGE 

Gemiise 384 

Gerste 27 

Gesse 109 

Gurke 137 

Hafermehl 221 

Haferwurz 333 

Haferwurz 316 

Haferwurzel 321 

Hohllauch 110 

Holunderbeere 156 

Hopfen 171 

Huflattish 119 

Indishe Kresse 217 

Ingwer ] 67 

Iris 239 

Isop 175 

Japan Erbse 175 

Kaffee 116 

Kalaminth 75 

Kaper 78 

Kardon 79 

Kari 145 

Kartoffeln 262 

Kastanie 106 

Katzenkraut 89 

Ivleberkraut 168 

Knoblauch 166 

Knol Selleri 94 

Knotig Gartenkerbel 382 

Knotig Gesse 372 

Kohlrlibe 380 

Kopfkohl 60 

Koriander 120 

Korn 122 

Korn 311 

Korn 404 

Kornrose 120 

Krauter '. 169 

Kresse 136 

Kuckuk's Blume 145 

Kugulgurke 168 

Kiimmel 79 

Kiimmel 145 

Klirbis 75 



INDEX TO AKTICLES. 



XVH 



PAGE 

Kiirbis . 281 

Kill-bis 339 

Lammersalat 121 

Latticlisalat 182 

Laucli 178 

' Lavendel 178 

Liebesapfel 355 

Liebesapfel (erdbeere) 345 

Liebstockel 191 

Linde • 191 

Linse 180 

Lotfelkraut 322 

Lorbeerblatt (common) 30 

Lorbeerblatt (Larustiiie) 30 

Lovenzalin 146 

Mailander Kohl 321 

Mias 122 

Malve • 193 

Mangold 322 

Marjoram 194 

Meerettig 173 

Meerfencbel 319 

Meer Kohl 323 

Mehl 165 

Mehl Graham 169 

Melisse 26 

Melisse 27 

Mellilot , 196 

Melone 75 

Melone (Muskat) 211 

Moehre 83 

Mohnsamen 261 

Moosbeere 134 

Morchel 197 

Morcheln (Cepes) 52 

Muskatenbliithe 192 

Muskatennus 219 

Nelken 113 

Nessel 218 

Ochenzunge 59 

Ocher 223 

Orrach 237 

Oxalis 239 

Pak-choi 240 



PAGE 

Palm Kohl 240 

Paradiesfeige 57 

Pastinake 242 

Petersilie 241 

Pfeffer 253 

Pfeffergurke . . . . , 167 

Pfeftermiinze 258 

Picridium 260 

Pillenfarn ' 135 

Piment 5 

Pimpinelle 59 

Poke 260 

Polei 253 

Portulak 283 

Portugal Kohl 261 

Queckengrass 133 

Eapunzel 288 

Baupenpflanzen 89 

Eaute 310 

Reis 293 

Eettig ■ 283 

Eettig (Madras) 192 

Ehabarber 240 

Rhabarber 290 

Eocambole 308 

Roggen 311 

Eosenpappel 171 

Eosmarin 309 

Eoth Kohl... 290 

Eiibe 373 

Riibesamen 289 

Eunkel Eube 47 

Saffran 312 

Sago 314 

Salbei 313 

Salat Krauter 316 

Salep , 318 

Saltpeter 319 

Salz 319 

Sammetpappel 195 

Saturei 320 

Sauerampt'er 329 

Savoyer Kohl 321 

Seekohl 323 



XVlll 



INDEX TO AKTICLES. 



PAGE 

Seller! \ 97 

Semoule 324 

Senf 215 

Scharlei.... 112 

Schlangengurke 329 

ScMlisselbl-ume 289 

Sclinittlaucli Ill 

Shallotte 326 

Smyrnenkraut 1 

Sourldee 407 

Spanish Kerbel 112 

Spargel 18 

Spargel Bolme 26 

Spargel Erbse 407 

Spargel Kohl 53 

Spinat 336 

Spinat (Belle dame) 219 

Sprossen Kohl 55 

Stabwurz 332 

Steckriibe 310 

Sternanis 175 

Siishols... 189 

Tapioca 351 

Taschelkraut 327 



PAGE 

Tausendgiildenkraut.. . 105 

Thee 352 

Thymian 355 

Tonkabohne 368 

TrlifFel 368 

Vanille 383 

Yermouth 408 

Wachholderbeere 176 

Wassermelone 401 

Weiserendivien 407 

Weitzen 404 

Wicke 401 

Wilde Krausemlinze 55 

Winterkresse 308 

Wolfsbohne 191 

WoUkraut 199 

Wurmkraut 350 

Wiirze 334 

Yamwurzel 110 

Yasmin 176 

Younge mangoldpflanze 350 

Zimmet 112 

Zuckerwurzel 328 

Zwiebeln 225 



GLOSSARY 



-OF- 



WORDS AND TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK. 



AUemande. — Allemancle sauce is not of German origin, as the name 
would imply, but is the mother and stock of the white French 
sauces. It is made witJi veal and chicken broth, and is then called 
Yeloute'e. After this the yolks of eggs, lemon juice, and essence 
of mushrooms are added. It is fully described in the " Book 
on Sauces." When this sauce can not be made con^'cniently a 
substitute can be made by thickening a veal or chicken broth, 
the same as for butter sauce, letting it boil for fifteen minutes. 
Put the yolks of four raw eggs in a saucepan with four spoon- 
fuls of cream, and mix in slowly one quart of the thickened 
veal or chicken sauce. Add the juice of one lemon, season 
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and set it on the fire. Stir it 
continually until it boils, then strain it through a sauce towel. 
Put it in a saucepan and place small pieces of butter on top to 
prevent a crust from forming. 

Annual. — Annual plants are those that must be sown every year. 

Aroma. — The quality or principle of plants or seeds that constitutes 
their fragrance. An agreeable odor. 

Aromatic. — A plant characterized by a pleasant smell, and usually 
by a warm, pungent taste. 

Bain-marie. — Literally a hot water bath. A Bain-marie is a square 
pan in which hot water is kept, and is used to keep saucepans 
in that contain sauces or stews, that are to be kept warm before 
serving. The water must be kept almost at the boiling heat, 
but never allowed to boil. The name Bain-marie is also applied 
to the high saucepans that are made expressly to sit in the 
above mentioned Bain-marie pans. 

Biennial. — Biennial plants are those that last for two years and then 
perish. 

Blanch. — To whiten the stalks or leaves of a plant by earthing them 
up or tying them together to exclude the light. 



XX GLOSSARY. 

Braise. — To cook or stew in a close-covered saucepan or other vessel 
on a slow fire. Formerly hot coals were put on the cover to 
keep the heat even, but an oven is much better and warms the 
vessel thoroughly. 

Brisk Fire. — One burning with a quick, free action. 

Butter. — When the expression "add apiece of butter" is used, it 
depends on the quantity of vegetables cooked. For four per- 
sons, add a piece as large as a walnut. For soups, add from 
four to six ounces. When it is added, toss the vegetables well 
over until the butter is melted. In soups, keep stirring until 
the butter is melted. In this way it thoroughly permeates the 
article being cooked, and gives it a glossy, velvety appearance. 
If it is not stirred, it will remain on the top and impart a greasy 
appearance to the food. 

Calyx. — The outer covering of a flower. 

Capsule. — The seed vessel of a plant. 

Catechu. — A dry, brown, astringent extract, obtained by decoction 
and evaporation from the Acacia Catechu, in India. It contains 
a portion of tannin or tannic acid. 

Cellulose. — The substance left after the action of solvents on vege- 
table tissues. It is convertible into starch and sugar. 

Chopped. — The term "chopped" parsley or onions is used often. 
Before being chopped, parsley must be washed, then dried in a 
towel; the large stems must be removed, and then the leaves 
are chopped. Then put it in a towel and wring out the moist- 
ure; after this dip it in boiling water for a minute, then immerse 
it in cold water and squeeze it dry. By doing this it will retain 
its green color in cooking. Onions should not be chopped or 
they will turn black; they should be cut finely. Parboiled 
vegetables, such as spinach or cabbage, should be drained first 
and then dried before being chopped on a board. Garlic has 
a stronger flavor when mashed than when chopped. 

Clarify. — To make clear. Applied principally to butter, which 
should be melted over a slow fire and then strained through a 
napkin. 

Coagulate. — To curdle or thicken; to change from a liquid to a solid 

mass. 

Colander. — A vessel with the bottom perforated with little holes for 
straining. 

Comfrey. — A genus of plants that abound in mucilage. An emol- 
lient drink is made from the roots. 



GLOSSARY. XXI 

Conical. — Fruit, roots or nuts that have the form of a cone; round 
and decreasing to a point. 

Corsican Sea 3Ioss. — A marine phint which, when boiled in water, 
is used in diet drinks and apozems. 

Cutters. — There are several kinds of cutters for cutting vegetables 
for garnitures. They are made of tin in various shapes — round, 
oval, square, etc. A vegetable spoon-cutter is a sort of a knife 
shaped like a sjDOon, and of numerous different sizes. 

Croio-foot. — A pasture-plant that resembles the common buttercup 
in its flowers, and has acrid properties. If swallowed in its 
fresh state it produces heat and pain in the stomach. It is 
used in diet drinks and apozems. 

Decoction. — The strength of leaves, seeds or other matter, extracted 
by boiling. 

Dilute. — To dissolve, such as the yolks of eggs diluted in milk. 
When they are mixed they should always be strained. Eggs 
and milk are put in purees for the purpose of thickening them. 

Drills. — A light furrow or channel made in the ground to put seed 
into in sowing. 

Esculent. — Any plant that is fit for food, though sometimes used as 
a general name for edible roots. 

Espagnole Sauce. — This is the stock sauce of almost all of the brown 
sauces. It is made of good stock broth, thickened with cooked 
flour, and then flavored. It is fully described in the "Book on 
Sauces." When this sauce cannot be made conveniently, an 
ordinary brown sauce can be substituted, which is made as fol- 
lows: Make an ordinary stock broth; then thicken, and flavor 
it lightly with ham, vegetables and Madeira wine. When done 
it must be free from grease. 

Expression. — The act of pressing or squeezing out. 

Faggot. — A term applied to a bunch of vegetables and herbs that 
are tied together with a string, so it can be removed conven- 
iently when the article is cooked. It is used in soups, sauces, 
and stews. See No. 1039. 

Farina. — Fine dust or powder contained in the anthers of plants. 

Farinaceous. — Consisting or made of meal or flour. 

Fecula. — The nutritious part of wheat, starch or farina. 

Fermentation. — That change of organic substances by which their 
starch or sugar, under the influence of water, air and warmth 
are decomposed and their elements are re-combined in new 
compounds. 



XXll GLOSSARY. 

Flat Saucepan. — A flat saucepan lias a two-inch border, but they 
come in various sizes. They are used to reduce sauces. Small 
ones that have the bottom slightly curved are used for tossing. 

Fungi. — A natural order of plants, such as mushrooms. Also ap- 
plied to excrescences on plants. 

Fusiform. — Shaped like a spindle. 

Garniture. — A decoration placed around or on joints, entrees, etc. 
They are used hot or cold. Vegetables are sometimes com- 
pounded in purees, which are also used as a garniture. 

Gentian Root. — The root of the G-entian plant having a yellowish- 
brown color, and a very bitter taste. It is used in diet drinks 
and apozems. 

Germ. — The ovary or seed-bud of a plant. 

Glaze. — To glaze is to baste with a gravy while cooking; to nourish 
the article being cooked. It also gives it a nice color. The 
term glaze is also applied to a broth that is reduced as low as 
possible without being scorched. Cakes are glazed with fine 
sugar, diluted with wines. Some baked vegetables are glazed 
with the yolks of eggs, diluted in milk or water. 

Glume. — The outer covering of corn, husks, or chaff. 

Gluten. — A tough, elastic, gray substance, found in the flour of grain. 

Hot Water Bath. — See Bain-marie in Index. 

Hybrid. — A plant produced from the mixture of two species. 

Iceland Moss. — A kind of lichen found in Europe, having a slightly 
bitter taste, and being tonic and nutritive in its properties. It 
is used in diet drinks and apozems. 

Immerse.- — -The expression " immerse in cold water " is applied to 
vegetables that have been parboiled. The green vegetables 
are immersed so they will retain their green color, while others 
are immersed to remove their acidity and crude taste. 

Jardiniere. — A well known term for a mixture of vegetables used as 
a garniture. 

Lichen. — One of the order of cellular, flowerless plants that derive 
their nourishment from the air. They are usually of a green- 
ish or yellowish color, and are used in diet drinks and apo- 
zems. 

Lupalin.— The fine yellow powder of hops. 

Macedoine. — A mixture of vegetables, and is also applied to fruits 
and jellies. 

Macerate, — To steep. 



GLOSS AEY. xxill 

Marsh- Trefoil.^- A plant growing in marshy j^laces, having bitter 
leaves, which are used in diet drinks and apozems. 

Menyanthes. — Same as Marsh-Trefoil. 

Moisten. — To add a little liquid to prevent scorching or burning. 

Mulligatcaony. — A combination of East India spices that comes in 
the form of paste, and is used in soups and preparations of rice. 

Orange Blossoms or Leaves. — The petals of the leaves are separated 
and dried. The leaves are dried in the shade, and kept in 
boxes in a dry place. They are both used in diet drinks or 
apozems. 

Ovate. — Oval or egg-shaped. 

Palmate. — Referring to leaves, and meaning those that spread from 
the apex of a petiole, so as to rej^resent the hand with out- 
stretched fingers. 

Panicle. — A form of inflorescence, in which the cluster is much and 
irregularly branched. 

Parboil. — To cook anything partially by boiling. To boil moder- 
ately. It is done to remove the acidity or tartness from vege- 
tables or nieats. 

Pedicle. — The stem that supports one flower only. 

Peduncle. — The stalk that supports the flower or fruit of a plant. 

Perennial. — A plant which lives more than two years, whether it 
retains its leaves or not. 

Petcd. — The leaf of a flower. 

Petiole. — The foot-stalk of a leaf that connects the blade with the 
stem. 

Pinch. — A pinch of sugar or salt is the amount you can hold between 
three fingers. A small pinch is what the end of the blade of a 
knife will hokl. A pinch of spice is the amount you can hold 
between the thumb and first finger; but care must always be 
taken with spice. 

Pistil. — An organ of female flowers which adheres to the fruit and 

encloses the seed. 
Pomegranate. — A tropical tree, the roots of which are prepared and 

used in diet drinks and apozems. 
Puree. — A pure liquid soup containing no solid parts. A puree of 

vegetables is made as follows: Cook the vegetables desired; 

then drain off all of the moisture and rub the pulp through a 

fine sieve. Finish as directed in recipes. When used as a 

garniture they are kept firmer than when used for a sauce. 

Soup-purees are thickened soups diluted with broth to their 

proper consistency. 



XXIV GLOSSARY. 

Purge. — To put vegetables in cold water for a certain time to extract 
tlieir tartness or acidity. 

Reduce. — To diminish the amount of water, broth, or moisture of 
any kind, in a saucepan or other vessel, over a fire. The 
moisture is reduced by evaporation. When reducing a sauce 
or puree, stir it continually until it is reduced, or it will lose its 
glossy appearance and flavor. 

Refresh. — Vegetables are said to be refreshed when they are im- 
mersed in cold water after being parboiled. This is done to 
green vegetables to make them retain their color. 

Reniform. — Having the shape of a section of a kidney; being broader 
than long, and more or less rounded. 

Rugose. — Pertaining to leaves that have the veins more contracted 
than the disk, so that the surface rises into little inequalities. 

Saline. — Consisting or partaking of the qualities of suit. 

Scape — The flowering stem of a plant. 

Scion. — A young shoot, twig, or the sprout of a tree. 

Seedling. — A young plant or root just sprung from the seed. 

Sessile. — Applied to a leaf growing on a stem without having any 
foot-stalk. 

Setiform. — Having the shape of a bristle. 

Sheath. — A rudimentary leaf of a plant which wraps itself^ around 
the stem. 

Sieve. — A utensil for separating- the fine part of any pulverized or 
fine substance from the coarse, consisting of a vessel, usually 
shallow, with the bottom perforated, or made of hair or wire 
woven in meshes. Brass sieves should never be used for culi- 
nary purposes. Hair sieves, or those made of copper, tinned 
inside and outside, are best. Use wooden spoons, or sieve 
brushes when rubbing anything through a sieve. Purees of 
vegetables should be rubbed through quickly. 

Simmer. — To, boil gently, or until the liquid commences to boil, and 
the scum gathers on top, 

Spermatic. — Consisting of seed, or pertaining to the elements of 
production. 

Spike. — A species of inflorescence in which sessile flowers alternate 
on a common stalk. 

Sp>iracle.—A. small aperture in vegetable bodies through which air 
passes. 



GLOSSARY. XXV 

Spooiifal. — When the term "spoonful" is used, it means the con- 
tents of a kitchen spoon, which hokls about double the quan- 
tity of a tablespoon. 

Spore. — The part of ilowerless plants which performs the functions 
of seeds. 

Standard.- — A shrub or plant which stands singly, without imj sup- 
port. 

Stellate. — Arranged in the form of a star around a common centre. 

Stirring. — When any preparation containing solid matter is put in 
a saucepan, it should be stirred until it boils, or it will burn. 
All farinaceous preparations should be stirred well while cook- 
ing until thej^ cook. When butter and flour is put in a sauce- 
pan to get browned, stir it constantly until done. 

Stool. — The root or stem of a tree or plant cut off near the ground, 
from which the shoots spring up. 

Straining — Is to pass anything through a sieve, colander strainer, 
or towel, in order to have it clear of impurities. 

Sub-sessile. — Having very short foot-stalks. 

Sub-soil.- — The bed or layer of earth which lies beneath the surface 
soil. 

Succulent. — Juicy, or full of juice. 

Sucker. — The shoot of a plant from the roots or lower part of the 
stem. 

Sivard. — The grassy surface of land; turf. 

Tassels. — The flower ribbons or heads of plants such as corn. 

Tepid. — Moderately warm. 

Toss. — (Saute') — Means to cook on a brisk fire, without any moisture 
other than butter, oil, or lard. 

Trench.- — A plowed furrow, ditch, or channel. 

Triennial. — Plants that last for three years. 

Trifoliate. — Having three leaves or leaflets. 

Tuberous. — Consisting of or containing a fleshy, roundish stem or 
root (called a tuber). 

Tunicated. — Covered with a tunic or layers. 

Valve.- — A division of the fruit of a plant. 

Vexillum. — The upper single petal of a flower, like that of a pea. 

Violet. — The flowers of this well-known plant have an agreeable 
flavor, and are used in diet drinks and apozems. 



XXVI GLOSSAEY. 

Wliite Archangel Nettle. — The flowers of this plant are dried in the 
snn after being picked on a dry day, and are used in diet 
drinks and apozems. 

Wooden Spoon.- — Wooden spoons should always be used in preparing 
dishes, or in cooking purees of vegetables or cranberries, or 
when rubbing forced meats through a sieve. In reducing sauces 
a special kind of wooden spoon is used, which has a long 
handle, terminating like a paddle, with a flat surface. An iron 
spoon will scratch the tin in a saucepan, and generally imparts 
an unpleasant taste to the food. 



PRACTICAL AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Article I. 



Frcuch ALEXANDER. German 

Alisandre. Smyrnenkraut. 

No. 1. — Is a hardy biennial plant, cultivated for its leaf stalks, 
which, after being blanched are used as a salad. In habit and foli- 
age it resembles the Celery somewhat. It has a pleasant aromatic 
taste and odor. 

CULTUKE. 

No. 2. — It is raised from seed annually, in light, deep loam, in 
drills four feet apart, covering its seeds an inch deep. When three 
inches high thin to ten inches apart; when well advanced earth up 
about the stems gradually, same as for Celery, like which they are 
also gathered for use and preserved during winter. 

PERFOLIATE ALEXANDERS . 

No. 3. — A variety, originally from Italy, of superior quality It 
blanches better and is more crisp and tender, and not so harshly 
flavored. The stems are about three feet high. 



Article II, 



AMBROSIA. 

Amhrosie, Ambrosia, 

No. 4. — Is an herb similar to Basil, and is used with Basil and 
Balm for the preparation of aromatic vinegar, and also used in fag- 
gots of Parsley when used for stewed game and small birds. Cul- 
tivation same as Balm, Article XI. 



HAEDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



ArTICIvK III. 



Frencb ANGELICA, German 

Angelique. Angelika 

No. 5. — Is is a hardy biennial aromatic plant, and is said to have 
originated in Syria, where it grows along the banks of rivers near 
high mountains. It is cultivated in the United States but is of in- 
ferior quality. The plant is highly esteemed in its preserved state, 
and much used by pastry cooks and confectioners. The best An- 
gelica now preserved comes from Niort, where the old formula is 
adhered to, as when made by the Nuns of the "Visitation of St. 
Mary," which gave it a world-wide reputation. The tender leaf*- 
stalks and flavoring shoots of the native grown Angelica are used 
as a basis for sweet-meats, and the seeds for flavoring liquors. 

CULTURE. 

No. 6. — The plants thrive best in damp localities, but may be 
grown in well enriched soil. Sow in drills, ten inches apart. Allow 
the young plants to remain until the following spring, then set them 
out two feet asunder, in each direction. The stalk, which is a 
cylindrical, hollow, herbaceous stem, will be fit for use by June of 
the following year. If the flower stem is removed, as it makes its 
appearance, the plants will put forth fresh sprouts from the sides 
of the root, and survive three years, but when allowed to blossom 
and perfect their seeds the plants soon perish. 

ANGELICA SYRUP. 

No. 7. — Trim one pound Angelica stems, parboil them for ten 
minutes, then immerse them in cold water. Peel and dry them on 
a napkin, cut in small pieces, put in a glass jar with two quarts of 
Spirits of Wine, at fifty degrees; cover, and let stand for ten days. 
Then add a half pint of syrup, at thirty degrees. Filter the nest 
day, put it in a bottle and cork well. 

PRESERVED OR CANDIED ANGELICA. 

No. 8. — Cut the Angelica in stems twelve inches long, then throw 
them into boiling water, letting them boil twenty minutes, then 
immerse them into cold water. Peel and dry them on a napkin, and 
when all are prepared put them into an earthen bowl. Make a syrup 
with five pounds of sugar to five pounds of water. Pour it over the 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. d 

Angelica boiling liot, and cover. Next day draw off the syrup, 
make it boil again, skimming it well, and pour over the Angelica 
again. Eepeat this four times in all, and the fifth time let the 
syrup cook to a boil, then add the Angelica, letting it cook until it 
gets firm. Then take out one piece at a time and put them in a 
warm place to dry. 



ARTICIvK IV. 



French ANISE. German 

Anis. Aiiis. 

No. 9. — Is an annual aromatic plant, and is cultivated for its 
seeds and leaves, which are used for seasoning and flavoring. The 
seeds have a fragrant odor, a pleasant warm taste, and are used by 
confectioners and bakers, and also for medicinal purposes — in 
cases of dyspepsia and colic, and to correct griping when taking 
unpleasant medicine. The green leaves are used like fennel for sea- 
soning and garnishing salads. 

ANISETTE COEDIAL. 

No. 10. — A liquor distilled from anise seeds. The most renowned 
comes from Amsterdam, and is partaken after dinner with black 
coffee, and is also used for creams, jellies and punches. 

PUMPERNICKEL. 

No. 11. — A kind of bread made in Germany called pumpernickel, 
in which anise seeds are mixed, and much relished when eaten 
with stewed prunes, figs or pears. 

CULTURE. 

No. 12. — Sow in warm mellow or garden soil early in spring in 
drills ten inches apart and one inch deep. When the plants are 
about an inch high, thin to four inches apart and keep the ground 
between the rows loose and free from weeds. "When the seeds are 
ripened the plants should be pulled up and spread in a sunny place 
to dry. Then thresh the seeds from the heads, riddle and winnow 
them and again expose to the sun to evaporate any remaining 
moisture. 



HAEDEES AMEEICAN COOKEEY. 



ArticIvK v. 



AROMATIC, MEDICINAL AND POT HERBS. 

French German 

Plante Medicinal, Aromatique tt herbe. Medizinishe Aromat'ishe, Griiuter. 

No. 13. — Care should be taken to harvest them properly. This 
should be done on a dry day just before they come into full bloom. 
Then dry them and pack closely entirely excluded from the air. 
They are used for culinary and medicinal purposes. For further 
information see each under its classification. 



CULTUEE. 

No. 14. — Most of the varieties thrive best in rich sandy soil, 
"which should be carefully prepared and well cultivated, as the 
young plants are for the most part delicate, and are easily choked 
out by weeds. Sow -as early as the ground can be made ready, in 
drills sixteen inches apart, or they ma}'- be planted as a second 
crop, the seeds sown in beds in April and the plants set out in 
June. 

No. 15. — The following constitutes some of the various varieties 
of aromatic, medicinal and pot herbs: 

Ambrosia, Coltsfoot (common), 

Angelica, Coriander, 

Anise, Couch grass or "Wheat grass, 

Balm, Costmary or Alecost, 

Balm Mint, Cuckooflower Cress, 

Basil Sweet, Cumin, 

Ben, Dill, 

Borage, Elecampane, 

Bugloss, Fennel Sweet, 

Burnet, " Fennel Flower (field), 

Carraway, Garlic, 

Catnip, Hop, 

Chamomile, Horehound, 

Chervil, Hyssop, 

Chives or Welch Onion, Lavender, 

Chives, Licorice, 

Cicely Sweet, Lupine, 

Clary, Mandrake or May Apple, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 



Marjoram Sweet, 

Melilot, 

Mint, 

Palmate Leaved Rhubarb, 

Parsley, 

Penny Eoyal, 

Peppermint, 

Picridium (garden). 

Poppy or maw, 

Purslain, 

Rosemary or Rosemarine, 

Rue, 



Saffron, 

Sage, 

Samphire, 

Samphire (sea), 

Savory, 

Scallion, 

Southerwood, 

Spearmint, 

Tansy, 

Tarragon, 

Thyme, 

Wormwood. 



ARTICIvK VI. 



ALLSPICE OR AROMATIC NIGELLE. 

French German 

Piment ou Quarire Epices. Piment. 

No. 16. Is a hardy annual plant from the East Indies. It is 
cultivated for its seeds, which are produced in a roundish capsule 
and are somewhat triangular, wrinkled, of a yellowish color, and 
have a pungent, aromatic taste. There are species cultivated, the 
seeds of which are black. The seeds have a warm, aromatic taste, 
and are used in the kitchen under the name of allspice or the four 
spices. 

CULTURE. 



No. 17. — Sow in April, in light, warm soil, in drills fourteen 
inches apart and half an inch deep. When the plants are two 
inches high thin them to six inches apart in the rows, keeping the 
soil loose and watering occasionally, if the weather is dry. When 
the seed ripens cut oif the plants at the roots, and spread them in an 
airy situation to dry. When dried thresh out, after which spread 
out the seeds again for a short time to evaporate any remaining 
moisture, when they will be ready for use. 



HARDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Article vil. 



French ARTICHOKE. German 

Arlichaut. Artishoke. 

No. 18. — Artichokes were first discovered in Italy, but are now 
planted in all large gardens in the United States, and are used as 
a vegetable, and prepared for the table in various ways. There are 
five kinds of Artichokes, viz : The Yiolet, the White, the Green, 
the Eed, and the Sweet. They are called the Globe Artichokes, 
which differ from the Jerusalem Artichoke. The Sweet Artichoke 
is preferable to all others for its delicious flavor. It grows very 
small, and its plants are very productive for two years. It is rare 
yet in this country. The Green, which is the variety in general 
use, is large and juicy. The Red, which is more delicate than the 
Green, is picked when young, and is mostly used for eating in the 
raw state, or in salad. The Yiolet grows as large as the Green, but 
is not as profitable in culture. The White is very productive, but 
very troublesome to raise, and owing to this is very rare in the 
market. 

Artichokes when eaten raw take long to digest, but when cooked 
are very agreeable. They are cooked in various ways as a vegetable 
for the table, and are used for garnitures and soups. 

CULTURE. 

No. 19. — Sow in April in rich soil, and transplant the following 
spring to permanent beds, in rows or drills, three feet apart and 
two feet between the plants. The first season will only give a par- 
tial crop, but as it is a perennial, after being once planted the beds 
will remain in bearing for years. They should be protected in 
winter by a covering of leaves or coarse manure. 

GREEN LARGE GLOBE. 

No. 20. — Is the best for general culture and use. The edible 
portion is the undeveloped flower heads, which should be used be- 
fore they begin to open, and the stalk should then be cut to the 
ground, for if the flowers expand they weaken the plant. In the 
large Globe the buds are large — nearly round; scales deep green, 
shading to purple, very thick and fleshy, the bottom of which is the 
edible part. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 7 

HOW TO PREPAEE ARTICHOKES FOR COOKING. 

No. 21. — Do not use Articliokes when they have developed. If 
once open they are not good for cooking. Cut off the stem, trim 
off the hard leaves around the bottom, and cut off the upper quarter 
of the Artichoke leaves. Then scoop out the fibrous part in the 
middle and put them in a pan of cold water acidulated. When thus 
prepared put them in boiling water, add a little salt and lemon 
juice, and cook until tender. When done drain them on a napkin. 

ARTICHOKES WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

No. 22. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 21. Then put 
them in boiling water with a little salt and the juice of two lemons, 
cover the saucepan and let them boil for twenty-five minutes on a 
brisk fire. When ready to serve drain them on a napkin, upside 
down, so as to absorb all the moisture from them, then dish them 
up on a napkin, and serve the Hollandaise Sauce separately. 

ARTICHOKES WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 23. — Prepare the Artichokes same as for Hollandaise, and 
serve the butter sauce separately in a sauce bowl. 

ARTICHOKES WITH MAYONNAISE OR VINAIGRETTE. 

No. 24. — Prepare same as for Hollandaise, serve Mayonnaise or 
Vinaigrette sauce separately. 

ARTICHOKES, WITH OIL OR POIVRADE SAUCE. 

FOR BELISH OR SIDE DISH. 

No. 25. — The small tender ones are served raw, after being 
cleaned of the fibrous parts and dished up on a napkin. The large 
ones are cut into quarters, trimmed of the hard leaves. Eemoving 
all the fibrous parts, keep them in cold water, in which add a little 
vinegar. Serve them in a relish dish, adding the juice of lemons 
which will keep the artichokes from turning black. Serve the sauce 
separately in a sauce bowl. 

ARTICHOKES, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR SAUCE. 

No. 26. — Take the yolks of two hard boiled eggs, mash them 
into a fine paste, put them into a bowl with two fine chopped 



8 ■ HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

shallots, add in slowly, while stirring with a wooden spoon, three 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Season with salt and pepper, then add two 
spoonfuls of sweet oil, mixing it well together and serve with 
artichokes, raw or plain boiled. 

ARTICHOKES — BARIGOULE. 

No. 27. — Trim one dozen middle sized artichokes, cut the top 
leaves off in the middle, trim the bottom round and with a tea- 
spoon scoop out all the fibrous part. Put them in cold water with 
a little vinegar, and when all cleaned parboil them for a few minutes, 
then immerse them in cold water. Drain them on a napkin to absorb 
all the moisture from them. Chop eight shallots very fine and put 
them in a saucepan with two ounces of scraped fresh fat pork. Fry 
lightly, then add a quarter of a pound of fine chopped mushrooms, 
one handful of fresh bread crumbs and a little chopped parsley; 
season well. Fill the centre of the artichokes with this preparation, 
cover each with a thin . slice of fat pork, place them in a deep flat 
saucepan lined with a layer of thin sliced fat pork. Moisten with 
a clear madeira wine sauce (or mirpoix), put on the lid and simmer 
gently in the oven for three quarters of an hour. When done and 
ready to serve remove the fat pork, strain the gravy, take off the 
grease and then add the gravy to a brown Italian sauce and reduce 
it to its consistency. Put a teaspoonful of sauce in each artichoke 
and serve the rest separately in a sauce bowl. 

ARTICHOKE BARIGOULE — ANOTHER WAY. 

No. 28. — Prepare the artichokes same as in No. 27. Chop eight 
shallots very fine and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. 
Fry them lightly, then add a little garlic, a quarter of a pound of 
fine chopped mushrooms, one handfuU fresh bread crumbs and a 
little chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper, and a pinch of 
nutmeg. Mix all well together, then fill the centre of the artichokes 
with this prejDaration. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each of 
them, arrange them in a deep buttered flat saucepan, put a piece 
of butter on each artichoke and bake in the oven until nicely 
browned. Serve with a white Italian sauce reduced with a glass of 
white wine. 

' ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 29. — Prepare the artichokes as in No. 31. Then put them 
in a flat saucepan. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of 
sugar. Moisten with a glass of white wine and some white broth. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 9 

Then let them cook on a brisk fire, and when done the broth must 
be reduced to a half glaze. Then add four spoonfuls of white 
Italian sauce, and serve. 

PRIED AETICHOKES, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 30. — Prepare the Artichokes as in No. 31. When dried, put 
them in an earthen bowl and season with salt and pepper, the juice 
of two lemons and a small wine glassfull of olive oil. Let them 
macerate for half an hour, then drain them on a strainer, flour them, 
dip each piece in beaten eggs and fry in clarified butter. Dish them 
on a napkin, and garnish with fried parsley. Serve with Brown 
Italian sauce. 

ARTICHOKES, LYONNAISE. 

No. 31. — Cut one dozen Artichokes in four parts, trim off the 
hard leaves, cut the others close around the bottom, take off the 
fibrous part, and put them in cold water with a little vinegar, so as 
to retain their color. When all prepared, parboil for five minutes, 
then immerse them in cold water and drain them dry on a napkin. 
Then put the Artichokes in a flat saucepan, well buttered, season 
with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar, put on a brisk fire, turn- 
ing them over occasionally, and moisten with a half bottle of white 
■wine and the same quantity of good white broth. Cover the sauce- 
pan. When cooked, the broth must be three-quarters reduced. 
Dish the Artichokes on a dish, with their bottoms upwards, strain 
the gravy, take off the grease, add four spoonsful of Allemande 
sauce, reduced to its consistency, a piece of butter, a little glaze and 
the juice of half a lemon, and pour the sauce over the Artichokes. 

STUPPED ARTICHOKES, BORDELAISE. 

No. 32. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 27. Chop one 
large white onion fine, put in saucepan and fry it lightly in sweet oil. 
Then add the bottoms of five cooked Artichokes cut in small square 
pieces, the same quantity of cooked ham, and a quarter of a pound 
of mushrooms. When the moisture is reduced, drain off" the 
sweet oil and add one handful of fresh bread crumbs, a little 
chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Mix all well 
together, adding three spoonfuls of reduced Madeira wine sauce. 
Fill the centre of the Artichokes with this preparation, and cover 
each with a fine slice of fat pork. Line a deep, flat saucepan 
with thin slices of fat pork, two sliced onions, one carrot, and a 
faggot of parsley garnished. Put the Artichokes in, moisten with a 



10 hardeb's americaj^ cookery. 

glass of white wine and good stock broth, make it boil, put on the 
lid and set it in the oven. When cooked take them out, place them 
on a dish, strain the gravy, take oif the grease, reduce it to a half 
glaze, add the juice of one lemon, a little fine chopped parsley and 
a piece of butter. Put a teaspoonful of the sauce over each Arti- 
choke, and serve the rest in a sauce bowl, separately. 

STUFFED ARTICHOKES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 33. — Prepare one dozen Articliokes as in No. 27. Chop one 
large onion in fine pieces, and put them in a saucepan with a piece 
of butter. Fry them lightly, then add a quarter of a pound of fine 
chopped braized veal, same quantity of cooked Artichoke bottoms 
cut in small square pieces, a handfull of fresh bread crumbs, a 
little fine chopped parsley and chives. Season with salt and pepper 
and two spoonfuls of reduced AUemande sauce. Mix all well 
together and stufi" the Artichokes with this preparation. Sprinkle 
fresh bread crumbs over them. Arrange them on a buttered pan, 
place a small piece of butter on each, and bake in a hot oven. 
Serve with, or separately, a reduced Madeira wine sauce, in which 
add some fine herbs. 

ARTICHOKES, TOSSED (SAUTe) IN BUTTER. 

No. 34. — Cut one dozen Artichokes in quarters, trim off the hard 
leaves, take off all the fibrous parts, leaving three leaves on each 
piece, nicely trimmed. Arrange them in a deep flat saucepan, with 
six ounces of butter, cover the saucepan and let them simmer for 
twenty-five minutes. When tender dish them up in the form of a 
circle, then add one large spoonful of fresh bread crumbs to the 
butter. Fry it lightly, season with salt and pepper, the juice of one 
lemon, and a little fine chopped parsley. Pour the sauce in the 
middle and serve hot. 

HOW TO PREPARE ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. 

No. 35. — Use medium or large sized Artichokes. They are used 
for garnitures of meats and soups, and as a vegetable are prefer- 
able to the others — as all is edible. In the others the leaves have to 
be picked, and are very annoying to persons not accustomed to eat- 
ing Artichokes. Take one dozen even sized Artichokes, cut off the 
stem and three-quarters of the top, scoop out the fibrous part with a 
small sharp knife, round the Artichoke even to the fleshy part, and 
put them in a pan with cold water acidulated. Put in a saucepan a 
quarter pound of butter, add two spoonfuls of flour, and mix it 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 11 

well. Then add two quarts of boiling water, stirring it well until it 
boils, not allowing it to get lumpy. Add the juice of four lemons, 
a little salt, then the Artichokes, and let them cook slowly until 
tender. When cooked and not ready for use, put them in an 
earthen bowl with the liquid, and cover with a paper cover. When 
ready for use take them out one by one and dip them in lukewarm 
water and prepare them as needed. 

STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. 

CLARA LOUISE KELLOGG STYLE. 

No. 36. — Prepare the Artichoke bottoms as in No. 35. Cut one 
large white onion in small square pieces, put them in lukewarm 
water for two minutes, then immerse them in cold water, after 
which put them in a napkin and dry them well. Then put them 
in a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry. When nicely browned, 
season with salt and pepper and a little chopped parsley or chives. 
Put this preparation on a plate to get cold, then fill the bottom of the 
Artichokes, sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs and grated Parmesan 
cheese over them; arrange them on a buttered pan with a few drops of 
olive oil over each, and put in the oven until lightly browned. 
Serve with a Soubise sauce. 

STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PIONEER STYLE. 

No. 37. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Chop one 
large onion fine and put it in a saucepan. Fry it nice and brown, and 
season with salt and pepper. Add a quarter of a pound of fine chop- 
ped roast veal, two spoonfuls of reduced Allemande sauce, and two 
spoonfuls of fresh bread crumbs, mix all well together. Take it off 
the fire, add the yolk of two raw eggs, stuff the Artichoke bottoms, 
then shake some light colored raspings of bread over them. Arrange 
on a buttered pan with a piece of butter on each bottom, and bake 
in oven. Serve with a thickened veal gravy. 

STUFFED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 38. — Prepare one dozen large Artichokes as in No. 35. Pill 
them with stuffing of forced meat of chicken or veal, in which add 
some cooked fine herbs. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each, 
and a few drops of sweet oil. Arrange them in a pan, on which put 
some light Espagnole sauce (or gravy), bake them slowly to a nice 
brown color, and dish them up, adding to the sauce a piece of butter, 
the juice of one lemon and a little chopped parsley. Put a tea- 
spoonful over each Artichoke bottom, and serve the rest separately. 



12 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, FRICASSEE. 

No. 39. — Prepare the Artichokes as in No. 35. Then cut them 
in quarters and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss 
them in the pan over the fire, then add some AUemande sauce, the 
juice of one lemon, and a little finely chopped parsley. 

FRIED ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, VILLEROI STYLE. 

No. 40. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. When well 
dried dip them in some cool Villeroi sauce, thea place them on a plate 
and put them in a cool place, so the sauce may get cold and adhere 
to the bottom. Then roll them lightly in fresh bread crumbs, dip in 
beaten eggs and bread them again, being careful in the handling of 
them. Fry in clarified butter or lard to a nice brown color, and 
dish up in a napkin with fried parsley to garnish. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 41. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. When all 
are trimmed put them in a deep flat saucepan, lined with thin slices 
of fat pork. Moisten by covering with veal broth and a wineglassful 
of white wine and the juice of one lemon. Season with salt and pep- 
per, cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly. When tender 
take out the Artichoke bottoms, dish them on a plate, strain the 
gravy, reduce it on a brisk fire, adding two spoonfuls of Espagnole 
sauce and one of Tomato sauce. When reduced to the proper con- 
sistency take it off the fire, add a few drops of lemon juice, a piece 
of butter, and a little fine chopped parsley, then pour the sauce 
over the Artichoke bottoms. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, MACEDOINE. 

No. 42. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Put them 
in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, warm them thoroughly, and 
season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Prepare sepa- 
rately a small cut Macedoine garniture, with vegetables. Cook and 
glaze each kind of vegetable separately, then mix them all together, 
adding two spoonfuls of AUemande sauce, Fill each bottom with 
the garniture, with a few drops of half glaze over each. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PROVENgALE. 

No. 43. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Parboil 
them for ten minutes, then immerse them in cold water and dry 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 13 

them on a napkin. Arrange them in a flat saucepan with three spoon- 
fuls of Olive oil, half a dozen cloves of garlic (whole). Season with 
pepper and salt, and let them simmer until tender, then serve them 
plain with two lemons cut in halves. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, WITH FINE HEEBS. 

No. 44. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Stuff them 
with cooked tine herbs, to which add some fresh bread crumbs and 
chopped fresh mushrooms. Arrange them in a deep flat saucepan, 
with a small piece of butter in each. Moisten them with a light 
thickened brown gravy, put in an oven and bake slowly. Baste 
frequently with the gravy, and when nicely browned dish them 
up with the gravy. 

■ ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, STEWED FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 45. — Prepare one dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. Cut them 
in quarters and put in a saucepan with a little reduced AUemande 
sauce. Season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of 
sugar. Then toss them in the pan gently over the fire, and serve as 
required. 

Note. — Very little sauce should be used with vegetable garnitures. All stuffed Artichoke bottoms 
can be used for garnitures. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, FOE LARGE COLD GARNITURE. 

No. 46. — Have some large white Artichoke bottoms cooked as in 
No. 35. Dry them on a napkin and glaze them with a coating of 
Aspic jelly. Keep them in a cool place until needed. Fill each with 
a garniture of small cut vegetables (alternating each vegetable in 
color), seasoned and glazed with Aspic jelly. Dish them up in a 
pyramid with finely chopped Aspic jelly around the dish. 

ARTICHOKE PUREE, FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 47. — Prepare two dozen Artichokes as in No. 35. When 
cooked drain them and put in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss 
them in the pan over the fire lightly, then add one pint of Cream 
sauce, or AUemande sauce. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and a pinch of sugar. Eub them through a fine sieve, then put the 
puree in a flat saucepan, with one wineglassful of double cream, 
and reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Put it in a Bain- 
marie saucepan, with a little butter on top to save it from getting a 
crust. Keep warm in a hot water bath until ready for use, and 



14 haeder's ameeican cookeey. 

when ready to serve add a piece of butter, and stir well until the 
butter is melted. 

AETICHOKE CEOQUETTES. 

No. 48. — When the Artichoke bottoms are cooked, as in No. 35, 
drain them dry and cut two dozen in small square pieces. Put in 
a flat saucepan a piece of butter with four finely chopped shallots. 
Fry them lightly, then add one pint of cream, or AUemande sauce. 
Eeduce it and add the yolks of six raw eggs. Season with salt and 
pepper, nutmeg and a little fine chopped parsley. Add the Arti- 
chokes and let boil up once or twice. Then mix them gently and 
put in a place to cool. Then form in any croquette shape desired. 
Bread in fresh bread crumbs, and dip in beaten eggs and bread 
again. Fry in hot lard and dish up on a napkin, with fried parsley 
to garnish. 

ARTICHOKE PUREE SOUP. 

No. 49. — Peel three dozen large Artichokes as in No. 35. Then 
cut them in quarters and put in a saucepan with four ounces of 
butter. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Set 
them on a slow fire so that they attain a light color, then add some 
white stock broth to cover them, and a faggot of parsley, garnished 
with celery, and two onions. Cover the saucepan and cook them 
until tender. Then add one gallon of thickened chicken or veal 
broth, and let boil slowly for a half hour. Take out the faggot of 
parsley and the two onions, skim it and rub it through a fine sieve. 
Then put back in saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add a 
piece of butter, stirring it well until melted and serve with it, 
separately, small fried bread crumbs. 

ARTICHOKE CEEAM SOUP. 

No. 50, — Peel threp dozen'large Artichokes as in No. 35. Then 
cut them in quarters and put them in a saucepan, with a quarter of 
a pound of butter. Toss them in the pan over the fire lightly (not 
allowing them to get brown). Then cover them with white chicken 
or veal broth. Add a faggot of parsley well garnished and season 
with salt, pepper and a little sugar, and let them cook slowly 
until tender. Take out the faggot of parsley. Add two quarts 
of cream sauce and pound them through a fine colander and add 
enough broth so as not to have it too thick, and then strain the 
whole through a fine sieve. Put back in the saucepan and season 
to taste, keeping it warm without allowing it to boil. Before serv- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 15 

ing add four ounces of butter, stirring it well until the butter is 
melted. 

Pour in the soup-tureen the following preparation: The yolks of 
four raw eggs with a half pint of cream well mixed, and strain 
through a fine strainer. Then add this in the soup slowly, stirring 
it well. It is then ready to serve. 

PICKLED ARTICHOKES. 

No. 51. — Take some fresh picked Artichokes, cut off the stems, 
trim off the hard leaves, cut off the upper part in the middle, and 
trim the other leaves close to the bottom. Scoop out all the 
fibrous part carefully and put the Artichokes in a pan with cold 
water, in which add a little vinegar. When they are all cleaned 
parboil for five minutes and then immerse them in cold water. 
Trim all alike, and rnb them with a lemon and arrange in an 
earthen jar or barrel, the size intended to be filled. When filled, 
pour over so as to cover them, a brine of water and salt, from six- 
teen to eighteen degrees (sugar weight.) Twenty-four hours after- 
wards drain off the water; boil it again, skim and add salt again to 
bring the brine to its former strength. Then cover the barrel or 
jar hermetically. When ready to use for cooking, let them soak in 
luke-warm water from ten to fifteen hours. 

HOW TO COOK PICKLED ARTICHOKES. 

No. 52. — Put in a saucepan four ounces of butter, and two spoons- 
ful of flour. Mix well together, adding while stirring, one quart 
of boiling water, letting it boil slowly. Then add the juice of two 
lemons and the Artichokes (having been prepared as above). 
Cover the saucepan and let boil slowly and prepare them as needed. 

ARTICHOKES PRESERVED WHOLE. 

No. 53. — Take freshly picked Artichokes, and see that they are 
fleshy and sound. Cut off the stem and trim off the hard leaves 
around the bottom. Cut off the top part in the middle and scoop 
out the fibrous part carefully. Parboil them for five minutes in 
water acidulated with a little vinegar, then immerse them in cold 
water, after which rub the bottom of each with a lemon. Then 
place them in tin boxes, about five in a box. Cover them with cold 
boiled water lightly salted. Add the juice of two lemons in each 
box. Then solder on the cover and boil the boxes in a hot water 
bath for two hours. 



16 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ARTICHOKES PRESERVED IN QUARTERS. 

No. 64- — Use middle sized Artichokes. Cut off tlie stem and 
trim off all the hard leaves. Cut them in quarters, remove all the 
fibrous part, round off the bottoms, trim off the edges of the remain- 
ing leaves, and parboil them for five minutes. Then immerse in 
cold water. Rub each piece with a lemon, and cook them in a prep- 
aration, same as Artichoke Bottoiss, No. 55, and proceed in the 
same way. Add the juice of two lemons in each quart can, and sol- 
der on the cover. Then boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour. 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, PRESERVED IN CANS. 

No. 55. — Prepare and clean the Artichokes as in No. 35. When 
all are cut and free from all fibrous parts, rub them well with a 
lemon. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse in cold water. 
Have ready on the fire a saucepan, in which put a quarter of a 
pound of melted butter, and the same quantity of flour. Mix them 
well together, adding two quarts of boiling water, stirring all well 
until it boils. Then add the juice of three lemons and let boil 
slowly for twenty minutes, adding the Artichokes. Then cover the 
saucepan and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Then take it off of 
the fire and let it get cold. Take out one Artichoke after another, 
and dip in lukewarm water. Dry them on a napkin and place in 
quart tin cans, each to be done the same way, and then covered 
with cold boilod water slightly salted. Add the juice of two lem- 
ons to each can. Solder the cover, and boil in hot water bath 
for one hour and a half. 

ARTICHOKE PUREE, PRESERVED. 

No. 56. — Prepare the Artichoke bottoms as in No. 35. Use 
lemon juice in place of vinegar to keep them white. "When they are 
cooked drain them on a napkin, rub them through a fine sieve, put 
the puree in pint tin boxes, solder on the cover, and boil in hot 
water bath for one and one-half hours. When ready to use the pre- 
served puree open the can, and put the puree in a saucepan with 
half its quantity of Cream, or AUemande sauce. When thor- 
oughly warmed, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of 
sugar. Before serving add a piece of butter, mixing it well until the 
butter is melted. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 17 



ArTICIvK VIII, 



French JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. German 

Topinambour . Erdartishoke. 

No. 57. — It is entirely different from the Globe Artichoke; its 
roots are all tubers, which are served as a vegetable; they resem- 
ble potatoes but have an Artichoke flavor. 

CULTUBB. 

No. 58. — They are grown exclusively for their tubers, and are 
cultivated similar to potatoes, only that the rows in which they are 
planted should be at least four feet apart when they are grown in 
rich soil. 

JEEUSALEM ARTICHOKES, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 59. — Wash them thoroughly in cold water, trim them in the 
shape of a large olive, boil them in water, lightly salted, adding a 
piece of butter; when cooked drain them, dish up and pour butter 
sauce over them. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 60. — Wash and peel the Artichokes, then slice them and put 
in a flat saucepan with some clarified butter. Fry them lightly, then 
moisten with white broth, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 
Then let them simmer slowly until cooked, when the broth must be 
reduced to a glaze. Add the juice of lemon and serve with Italian 
sauce over them. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, CEACOVIENNE. 

No. 61. — Peel and boil some large sized Artichokes. When 
cooked slice them, not too thin. Put them in a flat saucepan with 
clarified butter and fry lightly. Dish them up with fresh bread 
crumbs and fine chopped onions, fried in clarified butter and 
poured over them. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, PUREE FOB GABNITURE. 

No. 62. — Peel and wash two dozen Artichokes, slice and put 
them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them over the fire 

2 



18 Hardee's American cookery. 

a few minutes, then moisten them with just enough broth to cover 
them. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Cook them 
until the broth is reduced. Then add a half pint of cream sauce 
and rub through a line sieve. Put them back in a flat saucepan, 
and reduce with a little cream to its consistency. Before serving 
add a small piece of butter and a few drops of meat glaze. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 63. — Peel the Artichokes, cut them in any kind of shape you 
wish, but have them all alike. Put them in a saucepan, with white 
broth and a piece of butter. Cook them so as to reduce the broth to 
glaze the Artichokes. Serve them with a half glaze, cream, or 
AUemande sauce, as may be required. 

SOUP PUREE, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, PALESTINE. 

No. 64. — Put in a saucepan, two fine chopped onions with four 
ounces of butter. Fry them lightly, then add ten pounds of Arti- 
chokes cut in slices. Put on the cover and let them simmer 
slowly for twenty minutes, then add one gallon of thickened chicken 
or veal broth, and a faggot of parsley garnished. Season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg and pinch of sugar. Let them cook slowly until 
they are tender. Take out the faggot and rub them through a fine 
sieve, then put back in saucepan to keep warm. When ready to 
serve add a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of five raw eggs, 
and a piece of butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. 



ArticIvE; IX. 



French ASPARAGUS. German 

Asperge. Spargel. 

No. 65. — The Asparagus is one of the best table vegetables, 
having a delicious flavor, and being easily prepared. It can be 
had nearly all the year round, but is best when in season. To have 
them at perfection they need great care in their cultivation. The 
best flavored and most tender are those raised under cover and kept 
from the rays of the sun. There are four varieties: the green, 
violet, white and wild Asparagus. The white is savory and agree- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 19 

able for eating wliole, but contains little substance. The violet 
grows large and is very substantial and preferred by all gourmets. 
The green is smaller and more common and is generalh^ used for 
soups and purees. The wild is used for medical purposes. The 
water in which Asparagus has been boiled, when cold, is a refresh- 
ing drink, and can be used to advantage by persons troubled with 
kidney complaint. 

CULTUEE 

No. 66. — Sow early in spring, as soon as the ground will admit 
of working, in rows a foot apart. Keep carefully hoed and clear 
from weeds, and the plant will be in condition to set out in the suc- 
ceeding spring. The soil for the permanent beds should be thor- 
oughly manured and trenched or plowed to a depth of at least one 
foot. Plant in rows, spread the roots well out and let the crown of 
the plant be set deep enough so that it will be covered from five to 
eight inches. In heavy soil the covering must be less tha,n in 
light soil. After sowing the seeds, tread them firmly in with the feet. 

COLOSSAL. 

No. 67. — The best variety, unrivaled in size, deep green in color, 
tender and good in quality. 

GIANT. 

No. 68. — A popular variety, producing green and purple shoots, 
according to the soil. It grows very hardy but not as large as the 
Colossal. 

CKOSSBRED. 

No. 69. — It retains the head closed until the stalks are quite 
long and is of a uniform color, while for tenderness and quality it 
is unsurpassed. The size is medium large, and uniform, 

. SMALL DEFIANCE. 

No. 70. — Is of a rich green color, very early, good sized, tender, 
and good quality. 

HOW TO PEEPAEE ASPAEAGUS FOE COOKING. 

No. 71.— Wash the Asparagus in plenty of cold water, then take 
a knife and scrape the bottom parts of the stems. Put them in 
bundles of about ten to fifteen Asparagus in each and see that the 



20 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

heads are even. Tie them with a string and cut them at the bottom 
so as to have them all the same length. Boil them in boiling water* 
with a little salt. Asparagus to be good should not be overdone, 
and in serving them when boiled, dish up on a napkin so that it 
will absorb all the moisture, with sauce separately. 

ASPAEAGUS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 72. — Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 71. Tie them in 
small bunches. When boiled and tender, drain them on a napkin. 
Dish them on a hot plate, in a folded napkin, with butter sauce 
separately in a bowl. 

ASPARAGUS, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

No. 73. — Prepare Asparagus as in No. 71. Tie them in small 
bunches. When boiled drain them on a napkin, dish them on a 
dish with Hollandaise sauce served over the tops of the Asparagus, 
or serve the sauce separately if in large quantities. 

ASPAEAGUS PIEMONTAISE. 

No. 74. — Prepare Asparagus same as for Hollandaise. Use 
green Asparagus. When cooked and drained, serve them on a dish 
with a nut-brown butter sauce. 

ASPARAGUS, POMPADOUE. 

No. 75. — Prepare three pounds of Asparagus as in No. 71. Tie 
them in bundles; cut off all the hard part so as to have only the 
tender part left. Cook them in boiling water seasoned with salt. 
When cooked, drain them on a napkin and keep warm. While the 
Asparagus is cooking, make the following sauce : Put in a saucepan 
one-half pound of best fresh butter, add a little salt, pinch of mace 
and red pepper, the yolks of four raw eggs, the juice of two lemons 
and two soup spoons full of cold water. Put the saucepan in boil- 
ing water, stirring it with a whisk continually. As soon as it com- 
mences to thicken take it off the fire, place a layer of Asparagus on 
a dish, then a layer of the sauce twice over. This must be served 
hot; delay will spoil it. The Asparagus must be served with a 
spoon, and is eaten with the fork. 

ASPARAGUS, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 76. — Prepare two dozen bunches of Asparagus as in No. 71. 
When cooked, drain them on a napkin. When dry, place them on 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 21 

a disli and serve separate, one soft-poached egg for each person, 
which you poach in the Asparagus water, and a sauce bowl of Yin- 
aigrette sauce. 

ASPAEAGUS, WITH OIL AND VINEGA;R. 

No. 77. — When Asparagus is prepared as in No. 71, and cooked, 
immerse them in cold water until cold, to retain their green color. 
Then drain them on a napkin and serve as needed with a sauce as 
indicated in Artichokes No. 26. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS — HOW TO PREPAEE. 

No. 78. — Asparagus Tops are the tender part of the Asparagus. 
T^or small garniture, first cut off the heads and then cut the other 
part of the stem the size of a large pea. Cook each separately in 
boiling water seasoned with salt, on a brisk fire. When cooked, 
immerse in cold water, to keep them green; then drain them on a 
sieve, put them on a plate, cover them with a dampened napkin 
and keep in a cool place until needed. For large garniture cut all 
the pieces one inch long. To be served in faggots, leave them 
from two to four inches long, as may be required. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS, WITH SAUCE. 

No. 79. — Prepare two pounds of Asparagus tops as in No. 78. 
Cut one and a half inches long, and when ready for use put them in 
a fiat saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them gently in the pan- 
over the fire, and when warmed season with pepper, pinch of nut- 
meg, and sugar. Let boil up once or twice, then add a mixture of the 
yolks of two raw eggs, diluted with a little cream and a small piece 
of butter; mix it well together, not letting it boil, and then serve. 

ASPAEAGUS TOPS, COLBERT. 

No. 80. — Prepare one pound of Asparagus as in No. 78. Cut 
them one inch long; keep the heads separate, and put each part in 
a saucepan with a small piece of butter. Toss them gently in the 
sauce]3an over a brisk fire, then add two spoonfuls of AUemande 
sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Dish up the stalk part first, 
with the heads over them, and with a garniture of poached eggs 
around the dish, with a few drops of glaze on each egg. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS, WITH TEUFELES, IMPERIAL. 

No. 81. — Prepare two pounds of Asparagus tops as in No. 78. 
Cut them one inch long, and when cooked put them together in a 



22 HAEDER'S AMERICAJSr COOKERY. 

flat saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt and pep- 
per, and warm thoroughly, then serve them on a dish, leaving some 
space in the centre. Fill the centre with a garniture of truffles cut 
in a Julienne, and finished with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. 
When dressed sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over them. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS, WITH MUTTON GRAVY. 

No. 82. — Prepare two pounds of Asparagus tops. Cut them one 
inch long, parboil five minutes, drain and put them in a saucepan 
with a small piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, pinch of 
nutmeg, and add two cupfulls of mutton gravy. Finish cookiag 
them on a brisk fire, and before serving add some finely chopped 
parsley and chives. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 83. — Prepare the Asparagus as in No, 78. For small garni- 
ture they may be served in sauce, or tossed in butter in the pan 
over the fire, and seasoned with salt and pepper and a pinch of 
sugar. For large garnitures tie them in faggots and dress them in 
bunches, alternating with other vegetables, as may be required. 

ASPAEAGUS PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 84. — Use green Asparagus; break off the tender parts, wash 
them in cold water, drain and put them in a saucepan of boiling 
water, adding salt, faggot of parsley garnished, and two whole 
onions When cooked drain them and take the faggot and onions, 
put the Asparagus in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and sea- 
son with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and pinch of sugar; add two spoon- 
fulls of cream sauce, and one handful of bread crumbs, previously 
soaked in milk and pressed dry in a napkin; Let cook for ten min- 
utes, then rub through a fine sieve ; put the puree in a flat saucepan, 
reduce it with a little cream to its proper consistency, if necessary, 
add some color of spinach to give it a bright green color. Before 
serving add a piece of butter, stirring it well until melted. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS, FOR LARGE COLD GARNITURE. 

No. 85. — Slice some Turnips three-eighths of an inch thick, then 
cut them with a round cutter two and a half inches in diameter. 
Cut out the centre one and a quarter inches in diameter, parboil them 
two minutes, and then immerse in cold water. Dry them on a nap- 
kin, fill each ring with Asparagus tops, cooked, but not too much 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 23 

SO. Cut two inclies, or two and a half inches long; arrange in a tin 
pan so that they will stand up straight; set on ice to get cold, then 
mask with Aspic jelly. Carrot rings may be used, alternating with 
the Turnips. 

ASPABAGUS SALAD, PLAIN. 

No. 86. — Prepare one pound of Asparagus tops as in No. 78. 
Cut them one inch in length. When cooked and drained put them 
into a salad bowl, and season with salt and pepper. Add some chop- 
ped parsley or chives, vinegar, and olive oil. Mix it carefully, not 
breaking the tops. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD, WITH SHRIMPS. 

No. 87. — Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 78. Add one-half 
their quantity of picked shrimps, season with salt and pepper. 
Make separately, in a bowl, a sauce with the yolks of three hard 
boiled eggs. Rub them through a sieve, then put them in the bowl 
and add in slowly, while stirring with a wooden spoon, one glass of 
olive oil and a few drops of vinegar. Pour this over the salad, ar- 
range it properly and trim with hard boiled eggs cut into quarters. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD, WITH TRUFFLES, ROYAL. 

No. 88. — Prepare the Asparagus as in No. 78. Add one-half 
their quantity of truffles, cut into a short Julienne. Season with 
salt, pepper, and add the juice of one lemon. Mix all gently to- 
gether, cover them and set in a cool place for one hour. When 
ready to serve garnish the salad with fine chopped eggs — the yolks 
and the white alternating — around the border, and slices of truffles 
which have been dipped in a reduced cold Madeira wine sauce. 
Make a crown in the centre and fill with Tartare sauce. 

SOUPS. 

PUREE ASPARAGUS, CONDE. 

No. 89. — Take the tender part of ten pounds of Asparagus, wash 
them well and parboil for five minutes, then immerse them in cold 
water and drain them on a sieve. Then put them in a saucepan with 
one gallon of boiling chicken or veal broth, and add a faggot of 
parsley garnished with celery. Put this on a brisk fire, and when 
cooked drain them on a collander; take out the faggot, thicken the 
broth, and let boil slowly. Then add the Asparagus which you 



24 . HARDEE's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

pounded througli the colander. Season witli salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
and a pincli of sugar. Let cook for twenty-five minutes, then rub it 
through a fine sieve, putting it back in saucepan to keep warm. 
Before serving add half a pound of butter, stirring it until the but- 
ter is melted. Serve with a plate full of small fried bread crumbs; 

PUREE ASPARAGUS, ROYAL. 

No. 90. — Take ten pounds of the tender green part of the Aspara- 
gus, and when washed" parboil them for four minutes, then immerse 
in cold water (to retain their green color). Drain them, and put 
them in a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, then toss 
them in the pan gently over the fire, and season with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, and a little sugar. Add just enough white chicken or veal 
broth to cook them thoroughly, and a faggot of parsley. Let 
them boil until tender, and then pound the Asparagus through a 
colander, and tlien put into a saucepan with one gallon of thick- 
ened chicken or cream, in veal broth. Put it on the fire, stirring it 
until it boils, then set on side of fire to boil slowly for twenty-five 
minutes. Skim, and strain through a fine sieve, and then put back 
into the saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add four ounces 
of butter and a pint of which dilute the yolks of four raw eggs, 
while stirring the soup well. Serve with a garniture royal, cut 
into rings or in small dice shape. 

PUREE ASPARAGUS, ST. GEORGE. 

No. 91. — Prepare the puree the same as No. 90. In place of a 
garniture royal add a garniture of Asparagus tops, with small balls 
of forced meat of chicken, the size of a large pea. 

CREAM ASPARAGUS, COUNTESS. 

No. 92. — Cut the tender parts of ten pounds of Asparagus, and 
parboil them. Immerse them in cold water, drain them, and put them 
into a saucepan with boiling white broth, just enough to cook them. 
Season with salt and pepper, and add a faggot of parsley garnished 
with celery. When they are thoroughly cooked add two quarts 
cream sauce, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Pound them 
through a colander, then rub through a fine sieve; put back in 
saucepan to keep warm (not letting it boil). Before serving add 
four ounces butter, a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of 
six raw eggs, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Serve with 
a garniture of Asparagus tops, and add some green color of spinach 
to this soup, as it must be of a bright green color. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 25 

ASPARAGUS, PRESEEVED IN SALT. 

No. 93. — Pick out middle sized, sound and fresli cut Asparagus, 
Put into the bottom of a square water-tight wooden box, which you. 
intend filling, a layer of salt, then a layer of Asparagus, then a 
layer of salt, a layer of Asparagus, continuing until filled. On tLie 
top layer have the salt one-half an inch thick, and have a wooden 
cover to fit closely on the box, with a weight on top to keep it 
pressed down, and keep them in a cool dry place. When ready to 
use them soak them for three hours in cold water, then scrape them 
the ordinary way, and put them to soak in lukewarm water for five 
hours, changing the water occasionally, then cook them as required. 

ASPARAGUS, PRESERVED IN CANS. 

No. 94. — Square boxes, the size of the Asparagus, are much bet- 
ter than the round high boxes generally used by factories. When 
the boxes are properly made they can be used several times for the 
same purpose. Each box should contain from twenty-five to thirty 
Asparagus. After the Asparagus stems are scraped, wash them in 
cold water, tie them in bundles, and cut them all the same size. 
Parboil them for five minutes in water lightly salted, then immerse 
them in cold water, drain' them and pat on a linen towel to dr}'- 
Then arrange them in boxes so that the bottom half will have their 
heads towards the right, and the top half will have their heads to- 
wards the left. Cover them with cold boiled water, lightly salted; 
solder on the cover and boil the cans in a hot bath for one and one- 
half hours. 

ASPARAGUS TOPS, PRESERVED. 

No. 95. — Use fresh green Asparagus, and all the same size. Cut 
off the heads and keep them separate. Then cut the remaining 
tender part the size of a large pea. Parboil the heads one minute 
and the others five minutes. Immerse them in cold water, then 
drain them and dry on a napkin. Mix them together and put them 
into round quart tin cans. Cover them with cold boiled water, 
lightly salted; solder on the cover and boil them in a hot water 
bath for one hour. 

ASPARAGUS SYRUP. 

No. 96. — Cut off the tender part of four bunches of Asparagus, 
and wash them well in cold water. Put them in a saucepan with one 
gallon of water, letting them cook until it is reduced to five pints of 
water. Drain them and then strain the liquid through a flannel fil- 
ter, adding four pounds of cube sugar. Cook to a syrup of 32 de- 
grees, and when cold put in bottles, corked tight. • 



26 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Article) X. 



French ASPARAGUS BEAN. German 

Haricot Asperge. Spar gel Bohne. 

No. 97. — The Asparagus Bean is a distinct variety from the gar- 
den bean, being a native of the southern part of South America 
and China. The pods measure over one foot in length, and the 
beans are cultivated on account of their long pods, which are crisp 
and tender, having a rich flavor, and being much esteemed for 
pickling. The seeds are quite small, and are seldom eaten in their 
green or ripe state. 



ARTICIvB XI. 



BALM. 

Baume. Melisse. 

No. 98. — Balm is a hardy perennial aromatic plant. Originally 
from the southern part of Europe. The leaves have a fragrant 
odor, similar to lemons, and are used for making Balm Tea, for use 
in fever, and makes a pleasant beverage of Balm wine for diseases 
of the lungs, being also used in seasoning meats and for flavoring 
vinegar. A mixture of Balm and honey is sometimes applied to 
the interior of bee hives just previous to receiving the swarm for 
the purpose of their settlement, to attract them. 

CULTURE. 

No. 99. — Prepare a rich sandy soil and keep it clear of weeds. 
Plant early and thin to ten inches apart. The plants will soon 
completely cover the ground, and the bed with good management 
will last several years. When drying, the plants should be cut as 
they come into bloom, separating the stems at the surface of the 
ground. Spread them in an airy shady place and allow them to dry 
gradually. The leaves may be used in their green state directly 
from the plants, as they are required. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 27 



ARTICIvB XII. 



French BALM MINT. German 

Melisse, Melisae. 

No. 100. — The Balm Mint is a hardy perennial aromatic plant, 
similar to the Balm, but different in flavor, being often taken for 
Mint, on account of its flavor. It is used for seasoning game and 
flavoring vinegar and spirituous waters. Culture same as Balm. 



Articlb XIII. 



BARLEY. 

Orge. Gerste. 

No. 101. — The common Barley is a cereal, the flour obtained 
from its grains containing very little gluten, but an abundance of 
fecula, also containing a mucilaginous substance. For this reason 
it produces a bread less savory and less digestible than other flours. 
The Pearl Barley, when entirely removed of its pellicle, is reduced 
to a small pearl. It is much used for culinary purposes in replac- 
ing rice, and also in making soups for invalids. 

COMMON BA.ELEY. 

No. 102. — Barley succeeds best in lands more sandy and lighter 
than those adapted to wheat. It is sown in the spring and can be 
grown further north than any other grain. Unless intended for 
seed, it should be cut before being fully ripe, as it is then heavier, 
of better quality, and less liable to shell. The land should always 
be rolled immediately after sowing. 

BARLEY MANSURY. 

No. 103. — This is a six-rowed Barley with long, heavy well filled 
heads, containing large plump grains. The straw is bright, very 
strong, and is not apt to lodge even in the richest lands. Ripens 
a week later than the common six-rowed Barley, or about the same 
time as two-rowed Barley. 



28 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

baeley naked, oe hullness. 

No. 104. — This is a peculiar grain, and not generally known. 
The corolla is not attached to the grain, and in this it resembles 
wheat. It is a splendid grain for all the purposes for which Barley- 
is used, and will make an excellent bread when bolted and ground 
like wheat. 

SOUPS. 

CEEAM BAELEY, NEILSON STYLE. 

No. 105. — Put in a saucepan half a pound of butter, and when 
melted add a handful of flour and four handfuls of Pearl Barley, 
stirring it with a wooden spoon for fifteen minutes. Then add in 
slowly one gallon of veal or chicken broth; make it boil, and then 
set on the side of the fire to boil slowly, adding a faggot of parsley 
garnished, with two leeks and two green onions. Season with salt 
and pepper, and let it boil slowly for an hour and a half. Then skim 
off the grease and take out the faggot. Strain it through a fine sieve 
and put back in saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve add 
the following preparation: Take a pint of cream and the yolks of 
six raw eggs, mix them well, and strain through a strainer. Add six 
ounces of butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Serve 
with a garniture royal. 

CEEAM BAELEY, MAEIE LOUISE STYLE. 

No. 106. — Prepare the soup same as No. 105. When moistened 
with the broth and it boils add two raw chickens, letting them boil 
slowly until they are cooked. Then take out the chickens and the 
faggot, skim off" the grease and strain through a fine sieve. Season 
with salt and pepper and set on the fire to keep warm. Take the 
breasts of the chickens and pound them into a fine paste with six 
ounces of butter. Then rub it through a fine sieve and put it in a 
saucepan, adding a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs and a pinch 
of sugar. Then add the hot soup slowly while stirring briskly with 
a whisk. Serve with a garniture of green peas. 

CEEAM OF BAELEY, FAEEAGUT STYLE. 

No. 107. — Prepare the soup in a similar way to No. 105. When 
strained set it on the fire to keep warm, and when ready to serve 
add six ounces of crawfish butter, diluted in their broth, the yolks 
of six raw eggs and a glass of cream, stirring well until the butter 
is melted. Serve with a garniture of fried peas. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 29 

BAELEY BEOTH FOE INVALIDS. 

No. 108. — Wash two handfuls of Pearl Barley in cold water. 
Put in a saucepan on the fire with three quarts of plain chicken 
broth, and let it boil slowly for two hours. Press the liquid through 
a fine sieve and season lightly. When common Barley is used for 
these recipes put on the fire with cold water, and as soon as it 
boils strain off and proceed as with Pearl Barley. 

BAELEY WATEE FOE INVALIDS. 

No. 109. — Prepare same as No. 108. Use water instead of broth. 
When cooked press the liquid through a fine sieve. Serve plain or 
sweeten with sugar. 

BAELEY CEEAM FOE INVALIDS. 

No. 110. — Prepare the Barley as in No. 108. Use milk in place 
of broth. When well cooked press the liquid through a fine sieve 
and sweeten with a syrup of marsh mallow or venus hair. 

BAELEY WATEE FOE GAEGLING. 

No. 111. — When Barley water is made for gargling with briar 
leaves and honey, use the plain common Barley without changing 
the fresh water as with No. 108. When the Barley water is made 
pour it boiling over the briar leaves, then add a soup spoonful of 
honey and one of wane vinegar. 



ArTPICIvK XIV. 



French BASIL SWEET. German 

Basilic. Basilikum. 

No. 112. — There are four kinds of Basil. The large sweet Basil 
is the one principally used for culinary purposes. It is a hardy 
annual plant, and must be cut before it gets in full bloom. The 
seeds and stems are dried and used for flavoring soups and sauces, 
etc. It is also used when young and tender to mix with cooked 
vegetable salads, such as potatoes, beets, peas, beans, etc. 



30 haedee's ameeican cookeet. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 113. — All the varieties are annual and grow from seed. Sow 
as early as the ground will permit, in sandy soil carefully prepared. 
For winter use the stalks are cut while in flower, then dried, pow- 
dered and preserved as other pot herbs. 



Artict.k XV. 



BAY LEAVES, OR LAUREL LEAVES (Common). 

French CSerman 

Laurier Franc ou dappolon. Lorbeerblatt. 

No. 114. — These leaves are much used for culinary purposes, be- 
ing indispensable for stews, etc.. For these purposes they should 
be used in their dry state, as they then lose their bitter taste. 
In their green state they are used for pickling, and in imparting 
an aromatic taste to meats. 



ArTICIvK XVI. 



BAY OR LAUREL LEAVES (Larustine). 
Laurier Amande. Lorbeerblatt. 

No. 115. — These are not used much for culinary purposes, but in 
dairies they are frequently used to aromatize the milk. They should 
be used with precaution. Although they give an agreeable taste 
to the milk they are dangerous to use, being slightly poisonous. 



Article XVII. 



BEANS. 

Haricot. Bohne. 

No. 116. — This is a vegetable of which there are many varieties. 
They are prepared for the table in several different ways. Some 
varieties, when young and tender, are eaten whole, and are known 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 31 

as String Beans. Later on they get liulled, when the seeds are ripe, 
and are called the Shell Bean (French, Flageolet). Next they are 
dried and then prepared in various ways. The White Marrow Fat, 
the Golden "Wax, and the Dwarf Soisson are among the best varie- 
ties. To have Beans well cooked pure water must be used, some 
varieties having hard shells, which will not boil tender. This can 
be remedied by adding some carbonate of soda while they are being 
boiled. For early cultivation the American Garden Bush Bean is 
the earliest and hardiest. The Garden Bush or Pole Running Beans 
are tender annual plants, originally from the East Indies. The 
dwarf varieties require no poles or sticks for their support. 

CTJLTUEE OF THE DWAEF OR BUSH BEAN. 

No. 117. — A succession of sowing can be made according to the 
latitude. Plant in drills about two inches deep, and from eighteen 
inches to two feet apart, according to the richness of the soil. 

EARLY FEEGEE. 

No. 118. — The earliest variety and very prolific. 

EARLY RED VALENTINE. 

No. 119. — Tender and succulent, and of excellent flavor. They 
continue longer in their green state than most varieties. 

WHITE VALENTINE. 

No. 120. — Similar in growth to the red valentine. It is a very 
prolific bearer, and the fact of the bean being white gives it addi- 
tional value, as it enables it to be used as a shell bean. 

GALLEGA, OR LARGE REFUGEE. 

No. 121. — A standard sort for market or private use. Is very 
prolific; pods and beans are large. 

EARLY MOHAWK. 

No. 122. — An excellent early variety, very productive, and of good 
quality. 



32 haedee's ameeican^-cookeey. 

black wax, oe buttee. 

No. 123. — The pods wlien ripe are of a waxj yellow transparent 
color, very tender, excellent, and delicious. 

WHITE WAX. 

No. 124. — A variety similar to the black wax, except in color. 

IVOEY POT WAX. 

No. 125. — The pods are long, and almost of a transparent waxy 
white color, and are entirely stringless. In tenderness it excels 
almost all the other kinds. The beans when ripe are of medium 
size, white, and oval. It is an excellent Shell Bean for winter use. 

CANADIAN WONDEE. 

No. 126. — Produce very large pods with great abundance; very 
fleshy, and exceedingly tender when cooked. 

GOLDEN EEFUGEE. 

No. 127. — Pods perfectly round, and of a very light color. It is_ 
particularly well suited for pickling. 

CEYSTAL WHITE WAX. 

No. 128. — Produces pods of fair size of exceedingly rich and ten- 
der flavor. In color waxy white, and almost as transparent as glass. 
It is a stringless variety, very productive, and the pods though 
quick to develop are slow to harden. 

GOLDEN WAX. 

No. 129. — Is an entirely different variety, the pods are large, long, 
and brittle, and entirely stringless. As a snap bean it excels all 
others in richness and tenderness of flavor, and has the further 
merit of being one of the best shell beans grown for winter use. 

EEFUGEE OE A THOUSAND TO ONE. 

No. 130. — Very productive, though not early. The young pods 
are extremely tender and of fine flavor. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 66 

LARGE WHITE KIDNEY. 

No. 131. — An excellent shell bean, green or ripe. 

WHITE MAEEOWFAT. 

No. 132. — Extensively grown for dry state. Of average quality 
as a string bean, but excellent when shelled either green or dry. 

DWAEF SOISSON. 

No. 133. — 1» an early variety. They blossom six weeks after 
planting. Can be used with pods after seven weeks, and ripen in 
ninet}' days. The seeds are white kidney shaped, often flattened, 
bent, or distorted. They are productive, and the young pods are 
of fair quality. The seeds are excellent, whether used green or 
ripe. The skin is thin. They are much esteemed for their white- 
ness and delicate flavor. 

BEANS, POLE EUNNING. 

No. 134. — They are more tender and require rather more care in 
culture than the Bush Beans. They succeed best in sandy loam, 
which should be liberally enriched with short manure in the hills, 
which are formed according to the variety, from three to four feet 
apart. 

LAEGE WHITE LIMA. 

No. 135. — They are considered the best of all the Pole Beans, and 
are almost universally grown. 

SMALL LIMA, OR SIEVA. 

No. 136. — It is earlier and more hardy than the large White Lima. 

DREER's IMPROVED LIMA. 

No. 137. — This is an extra quality of bean which matures early,, 
and yields largely. It produces more shelled beans to the pole 
than the large Lima. 

DUTCH CASE KNIFE, 

No. 138. — A very productive variety, and one of the earliest.. 
Sometimes used as a snap bean, but generally shelled, 
3 



3 J: haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

SPECKLED CEANBEEEY. 

No. 139. — A popular variety, serviceable in its green state or 
when shelled. 

SCAELET EUNNEE. 

No, 140. — A great favorite in gardens, both as an ornamental 
plant and useful vegetable. 

GIANT WAX. 

No. 141. — Pods long and clear, with a waxj^ color, thick and 
fleshy, and very productive When cooked they are tender and 
delicious. 

GEEMAN WAX POLE. 

No. 142. — One of the best varieties, either for snap or shelled in 
the green state. 

Frencli BEANS, ENGLISH OE BEGAD. German 

_^g-j,g Garlenhohne. 

No. 143. — This class is very hardy, and is said to be the most 
ancient of all esculents. It originated in Egypt. Should be 
planted as soon as the soil is in good condition, in Spring. Plant 
four inches apart and two inches deep, in drills four feet apart. 
To insure well filled pods, pinch off the tops as soon as the lower 
pods begin to set. In their young state they are best for the table, 
being then digestible. When old the skin must be removed, else 
they are hard to digest. 

EAELY MAZAGAN. 

No. 144. — A very early and healthy variety. 

BEGAD WINDSOE. 

No. 145. — Best for general use. Suitable for field and garden 
culture. 

SWOED LONG POD. 

No. 146. — An excellent variety, similar to the Broad Windsor. 

HOW TG PEEPAEE STEING BEANS EOE CGOKING. 

No. 147. — To have good beans they must be perfectly fresh. 
Break off the ends and string them carefully, or pare both edges. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 35 

to be certain that none of the tough fibre remains (this should be 
done carefully and at all times). Wash them in cold water. When 
young and small leave them whole. When large split the beans 
lengthwise, or cut tbem in pieces an inch long. 

STRING BEANS, ENGLISH STYLE. 

No. 148. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 147, and when ready for 
cooking throw them in boiling water, lightly salted. Boil them on 
a brisk fire until tender (never cover the pot while cooking beans, 
as that has a tendency to tinge them yellow). Drain them on a 
colander and serve them with a piece of butter in the centre and a 
piece on top. 

STEING BEANS, MAITEE d' HOTEL. 

No. 149. — Cook them as in No. 148. When done immerse them 
in cold water. Drain them on a colander and place them on a nap- 
kin to absorb all the moisture. Put them in a fiat saucepan with a 
piece of butter, and season with salt and pepper. Toss them over 
the fire until thoroughly warm, and then add a little fine chopped 
parsley and a few drops of lemon juice. 

STEING BEANS, WITH FINE HERBS. 

No. 150. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 148. Put in a flat sauce- 
pan a piece of butter, two fine chopped shallots, and fry them lightly. 
Add the String Beans, and season with salt, pepper, and a little 
nutmeg. Toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed, then 
take them off of the fire and add a piece of butter, some fine chopped 
parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice — tossing them over until 
the butter is melted. 

STEING BEANS, LYONNAISE. 

No. 151. — When the Beans are prepared as in No. 148, put in a 
flat saucepan a piece of butter, one onion cut in half and sliced fine. 
Fry lightly and then add the Beans. Season with salt and pepper, 
and add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Toss them over the 
fire, and when serving add a little fine chopped parsley. 

STEING BEANS, POULETTE. 

No. 152. — When the Beans are prepared as in No. 148, put them 
in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, 



36 HARDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKERY. 

and nutmeg. When thoroughly warmed add two spoonfuls of 
AUemande sauce. Toss them well together, and when ready to 
serve add a few drops of lemon juice and some fine chopped parsley .- 

STRING BEANS, BRETONNE. 

No. 153. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 148. Cut two onions in half ,^ 
trim off the ends, and slice them fine. Then put them in a saucepan 
with a piece of butter, and fry them to a light brown. Then add 
four spoonfuls of vinegar, and cook until it is two-thirds reduced. 
Then add four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, the Beans, and 
season with salt and pepper, and cover the saucepan, letting them 
simmer slowly for twenty minutes. 

STRING BEANS, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 154. — Put in a saucepan a piece of butter, and add one fine 
sliced onion. Pry lightly. Add young Beans, and season with salt, 
pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and add a faggot of parsley garnished, 
and two spoonfuls of white broth. Cover the saucepan, and let 
them simmer for fifteen minutes. Then sprinkle a little flour over 
them, tossing them over well and cooking for fifteen minutes longer. 

STRING BEANS, WITH CREAM. 

No. 155. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 148. Put them in a flat 
saucepan with some fine scraped fresh fat pork. Season with salt 
and pepper and add a faggot of parsley. Let them simmer slowly 
for half an hour, and when ready to serve add a glass of cream, 
into which dilute the yolks of two raw eggs and a piece of butter. 
Toss them well together. Take out the faggot and then serve. 

STRING BEANS, COUNTRY STYLE. 

No. 156. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 148, then put them in a 
saucepan with a piece of butter. Add some fine chopped parsley 
and chives. Sprinkle them with flour. Toss them over and add 
some broth. Let them simmer for half an hour, and when the 
moisture is nearly reduced, add a glass of milk, into which dilute 
the yolks of two raw eggs. Mix all well together and serve with 
pieces of sliced fat pork cooked separately. 

STRING BEANS, PRESERVED IN SALT. 

No. 157. — Use small fresh plucked Beans. Cat off the ends and 
string them. Parboil them for two minutes in plenty of water. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 37 

Immerse them in cold water and drain them on a sieve, then dry 
them on a towel. Put in a keg or barrel a layer of salt, then one 
of Beans, alternating until the keg or barrel is full. Put on the 
cover to press them. Pill up next day with Beans, as they will 
have settled . If they show too much water, drain half off and add 
more salt. Cover with a cloth and put the top on tight. Keep in 
a cool place. 

STRING BEANS, PRESERVED IN BRINE. 

No. 158. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 157. Put them in layers 
in a glass jar and then cover them with strong cooked brine. 
Twenty-four hours after drain off the brine, boil it, add more salt, 
and when cold pour it over the Beans. Three days after this boil 
the brine again, adding salt, and when cold pour it over the Beans 
again, cover them tight and keep in a cool place. 

STRING BEANS, PRESERVED IN CANS. 

No. 159. — Prepare the Beans as in No. 157, and when dried ar- 
range them in layers in tin cans holding one pound of Beans. Boil 
■some water, lightly salted, and when cold cover the Beans, solder 
on the cover, and boil in a hot water bath for an hour and a quarter. 

HOW TO PREPARE SALTED STRING BEANS FOR COOKING. 

No. 160. — Soak them in cold water for four hours, changing the 
water once or twice. Then put them with fresh water on the fire to 
warm slowly. When the water intends to boil, drain it off and put 
on fresh cold water and let them boil. Cook until tender and 
prepare as needed. 

STRING BEAN SALAD. 

No. 161. — Cook some small String Beans as in No. 148. When 
cold put them in a salad bowl with some fine sliced cooked onions. 
Season with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil , and add some fine chopped 
parsley. Mix all together without breaking the Beans, and garnish 
M^ith beets cut in rounds. 

STRING BEAN SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 162.— Prepare same as in No. 161. Garnish with fillet of 
anchovies around the border, and cover the centre with a Eemou- 
lade sauce. 

STRING BEANS FOR GARNITUEE. 

No. 163. — String Beans, when used for large garniture, are cook, 
ed as in No. 118, immersed in cold water, then thoroughly warmed 



da HAEDEE S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. 

and seasoned. Dress them in bunches, alternating with other 
vegetables. 

For small garniture, cut them diamond shape an inch long, 'and 
boil them the usual way. Then put them in a sauce-pan with a 
piece of butter. .Season and toss them over the fire for a few min- 
utes. Dress plain or with sauce as may be desired. Care should 
be taken in cooking to keep them green. In order to do this, 
instructions as given in No. 148 must be taken. 

WAX BEANS, MAITEE d'HOTEL. 

No. 164. — When the Beans are shelled wash them in cold water; 
then put them in boiling water on a brisk fire. Have the water 
lightly salted, and add a small piece of butter. When cooked drain 
them, and put them into a saucepan with a few spoonfuls of 
Allemande sauce. Season, and toss them until w^ell mixed before 
serving, and add a little fine chopped parsley and a piece of butter. 
Serve hot. 

WHITE OE KIDNEY BEANS, WITH PUEEE OF ONIONS, SOUBISE. 

No. 165. — Cook the Beans as in No. 164, and when cooked put 
them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt and 
pepper, and add a few spoonfuls of puree of onions, white or brown. 
Let them simmer for fifteen minutes, and in serving garnish with 
scallops of Artichokes around the dish. 

WHITE BEANS, COUNTEY STYLE. 

No. 166. — After the Beans are shelled and washed, put them into 
a saucepan to boil, and add a piece of butter and a little salt. 
When done drain them and then put in a saucepan a piece of but- 
ter. Add the Beans, season with salt and pepper, and add a little 
fine chopped parslej' and chives. Toss them well together, and if 
they should get too thick add a little broth. 

GEEEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, MAITEE d'HOTEL. 

No. 167.— Prepare the same as White Beans in No. 164, and after 
they are boiled immerse them in cold water. Drain them and keep 
in a cool place for use when needed. 

GEEEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, GEEMAN STALE. 

No. 168. — When the Beans are boiled drain them. Then put 
them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter and season with 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 39 

salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire, adding two spoonfuls of 
Allemande sauce, and in seasoning sprinkle a little fine chopped 
parsley over them. 

GEEEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, WITH STRING BEANS. 

No. 169. — When the Flageolet Beans are boiled, drain them. 
Then have the same quantity of string beans, cut diamond shape 
(the same size as the Flageolet Beans), boiled and drained. Put 
both of them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, and season 
with salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire until thoroughly 
warmed; after which add two spoonfuls of cream sauce and some 
fine chopped parsley. 

PUREE OF NEW BEANS FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 170. — Shell as many Beans as needed. Boil them as soon as 
they are shelled, in water lightly salted, with a faggot of parsley 
garnished with green onions. When the Beans are cooked, drain 
them on a colander. Take out the faggot and put the Beans into a 
saucepan with a few spoonfuls of cream or Allemande sauce. 
Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and when well mixed rub them 
through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in a flat saucepan to 
reduce it. If needed, add a pinch of sugar and a piece of butter 
before serving. 

PUREE OF GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS FOR GARNITURE. 

Xo. 171. — Prepare and cook as in No. 170. Rub them through 
a fine sieve, and reduce in a flat saucepan to its proper consistency. 
Add a little glaze and butter before serving. 

FLAGEOLET BEANS PRESERVED IN CANS. 

No. 172. — The green shelled Flageolet Beans are the best. Pluck 
them while young and tender. Wash them and then parboil them 
in water, lightly salted, until three-quarters cooked. Drain them in 
a colander and spread them on a towel, and when cold place them 
in cans holding a pint. Boil some water, lightly salted, and when 
cold cover the Beans with it. Add to each can a pinch of carbonate 
of soda. Solder on the cover and then boil in a hot water bath for 
one hour. 

DRY WHITE BEANS, MAITRE d'hOTEL. 

No. 173. — All dry beans must be carefully picked and then washed 
in cold water. Soak the quantity needed in cold water over night, 



40 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

then drain tliem the next day and put them in a saucepan, having 
them well covered with water. When they boil add a piece of 
bacon or salt pork (previously parboiled for a few minutes). Cover 
ihe saucepan and let the Beans cook continuously and slowly until 
tender. Then take out the pork or bacon and drain half of the 
liquid from the Beans. Season with pepper and salt, and, if needed, 
add a piece of butter with fine chopped parsley. Toss them well 
over until the butter is melted. 

DRY WHITE BEANS, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 174. — Cook them the same as in No. 173, and when done 
drain off the broth. Add Allemande or butter sauce and mix 
well. When serving add fine chopped parsley, and slice the bacon 
or pork to garnish the dish. 

DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 175. — Cook the Beans as in No. 173. When cooked drain 
them and put them in a saucepan with Cream sauce. Season well 
and let them simmer for ten minutes. 

DRY WHITE BEANS, BRETON NE. 

No. 176. — Cook the Beans as in No. 173, and when cooked drain 
them in a colander. Put in a saucepan two onions, cut in half and 
sliced fine. Fry them in butter to a light brown color, and add a 
wine-glassful of vinegar; and when reduced one-third add a few 
spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce and the Beans. Season with salt 
and pepper. Cover the saucepan and let it simmer for half an 
hour. 

DRY WHITE BEANS, EGBERT. 

No. 177. — Cook the Beans as in No 173, and when cooked drain 
them in a colander. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter and two 
fine chopped onions. Fry them lightly and drain off the butter. 
Add three teaspoonfuls of mustard flour, diluted with four large 
spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Then add one quart of the Beans 
and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Cover the saucepan 
and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Before serving add a piece 
of butter and toss the Beans well over until it is melted. 

DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH BACGN. 

No. 178. — Pick and wash two quarts of white Beans, and soak 
them as usual. Then put them in a saucepan with one pound of 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 41 

"bacon cut in square pieces. Have the whole well covered with 
water. Season with salt and pepper, then cover the saucepan, and 
let them boil slowly. This is a simple but very nourishing dish. 

DKY WHITE BEANS, WITH MAEEOW. 

No. 179.— When the Beans are cooked, as in No. 173, drain them 
in a colander. Put into a flat saucepan some marrow cut in small 
pieces. Fry it lightly, and then add the Beans. Season well, 
adding some fine chopped chives, tossing the whole well together, 
and serve immediately. 

HOW TO BAKE BEANS IN POTS. 

No. 180, — Pick two quarts of Beans. Wash them in cold water 
and let them soak in fresh water over night. Then drain them and 
put them in a saucepan with fresh water. Add two pounds of salt 
pork (previously Avashed). Let them boil for half an hour and 
drain them in a colander. Put the Beans in a pan aud season with 
salt and pepper, to taste. Add four spoonfuls of molasses, mixing 
it well with the Beans. Then put the Beans in earthen pots with a 
piece of the pork in the centre of each pot of Beans. Moisten with 
enough boiling water to cover them, and place them in an oven 
to bake slowly over night. 

DEY WHITE BEAN SALAD. 

No. 181. — When the Beans are cooked as in No. 173, drain them, 
and when cold put one quart of Beans in a salad bowl, with two 
fine chopped onions, which you will have parboiled for two minutes 
and immersed in cold water, and then pressed dry in a napkin. 
Season with salt, pepper, vinegar and a little oil, adding some 
chopped parsley or chives. Mix the whole well together, and 
garnish with beets and eggs. 

DEY WHITE BEANS FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 182. — When the Beans are cooked as in No. 173, drain them 
and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with 
salt and pepper. Toss them over the fire and add some fine 
chopped parsley, or with butter. Cream, Allemande or Espagnole 
sauce if desired. 

PUEEE OF DEY WHITE BEANS — WHITE. 

No. 183. — Cook the Beans the same as in No. 173, and drain them 
in a colander. Put in a saucepan one white onion chopped fine, 



42 Hardee's American cookery. 

and fry it lightly. Add one quart of the Beans with four spoonfuls 
of Allemande or Cream sauce. Season with salt and pepper, and 
rub the puree through a fine sieve. Then put it back into a sauce- 
pan to keep warm, and before serving, put in a piece of butter, 
at the same time stirring the puree well up. 

PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS — BROWN. 

No. 184. — Prepare the same way as in No. 183 — but in place of 
Allemande or Cream sauce, use Espagnole sauce, with an essence 
of ham or game. 

PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS, WITH CELERY. 

No. 185. — Prepare the. puree the same as in No. 173, and when 
rubbed through a sieve put it into a flat saucepan and reduce it 
to its consistency with one glass of cream. Prepare separately a 
small cut Julienne of celery, cooked and glazed, and when done add 
it to the puree. 

REt) BEANS, BOURGUIGNONNE. 

No. 186. — After the Beans are washed and cleaned put them into 
a saucepan with two onions, two carrots, a faggot of parsley well 
garnished, and a piece of lean bacon. Moisten to cover with cold 
water. Make it boil, then skim and let it cook slowly. When the 
Beans are three-quarters cooked take out the onions, carrots and 
faggot, and drain off half the moisture. Add tlie same quantity of 
claret wine. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer slowly until 
cooked. Before serving add a piece of butter, tossing them well 
over, and serve with the bacon sliced. 

RED BEANS, CARDINAL — FOR FAST DAYS. 

No. 187. — Prepare the Beans the same as in No. 173, leaving 
out the bacon, and when the Beans are done dish them up with 
turnovers of fish as a garniture. 

RED BEANS, DONOHOE STYLE — FOR FAST DAYS, 

No. 188. — Cook the Beans the same as in No. 173, leaving out the 
bacon; and when the Beans are cooked dish them with a garniture 
of fried oysters, shad roes, or milts of carp. 

BLACK BEANS, WITH BUTTER. 

No. 189. — "Wash and clean the Beans well. Cook them the same 
as in No. 173, and when done put them in a saucepan with a piece 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 43 

of butter, tossing them well over tlie fire, seasoning tliem with salt 
and pepper. 

BEOAD BEANS. 

No. 190. — Are best when young and prepared the same as the 
other Beans. After they are boiled drain them and put them in a 
saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg 
and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the fire and serve. 

BEGAD BEANS, WITH CEEAM POOLETTE. 

No. 191. — When shelled, wash them. Boil them as usual, then 
immerse them in cold water and drain them in a colander. Put 
into a saucepan four ounces of butter and the same quantity of flour. 
Stir with a wooden spoon and allow it to cook for ten minutes. 
Dilute the butter and flour Avith one quart of white broth and add 
the Beans. Season with salt and pepper, and add a faggot of pars- 
ley garnished with a sprig of summer savory. Let the whole simmer 
slowly for twenty minutes. Before serving add a glassful of cream, 
letting it boil up once, and serve with some fine chopped parsley 
thrown over the Beans. 

LIMA BEANS. 

No. 192. — When shelled should be allowed to lay in cold water a 
short time before cooking. Boil them on a brisk fire in plenty of 
water, lightly salted, until tender. Then drain them and return 
them to the saucepan. Add a piece of butter, salt and pepper, toss- 
ing the whole well together and serve. 

LIMA BEANS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 193. — When cooked and drained as in No. 192, add a few 
spoonfuls of Butter sauce. Season with salt, pepper, the juice of 
one lemon and add a little fine chopped parsley. Toss them well 
over the fire and serve. 

LIMA BEANS, EEENCH STYLE. 

No. 191. — Cook the Beans the same as in No. 192, and before 
serving add a glass of cream, into which dilute the yolks of three 
raw eggs and a piece of butter. Toss the whole well together over 
the fire and serve with fine chopped parsley over them. 



44 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

LIMA beans, MACEDOINE, 

No. 195. — Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, two fine chopped 
shallots and a handful of sliced fresh mushrooms. Cover the 
saucepan and cook them lightl^^ Then add two soup spoonfuls of 
flour and dilute the whole with a pint of white broth, stirring it 
so as to have no lumps. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished with 
summer savory. Put with this two quarts of the Beans (previously 
boiled as in No. 192) and put on the lid and let them simmer slowly 
for twenty minutes. Take out the faggot and add a quarter of its 
quantity of boiled artichoke bottoms cut into pieces the size of the 
Beans. Season with salt and pepper. Allow them to simmer for 
ten minutes longer and before serving add a little fine chopped 
parsley or chives. 

SOUPS. 



pueee of geeen flageolet beans, saint geemain. 

No. 196. — Take one quart of Green Flageolet Beans and put 
them in a saucepan with two quarts of boiling water lightly salted. 
Add a piece of butter and a faggot of parsley garnished with 
leeks. Cook them on a brisk fire, and when tender drain them. 
Then return the Beans to the saucepan and add two quarts, of thick- 
ened chicken or veal broth. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch 
of sugar. Let them cook slowly for twenty minutes. Then skim it 
well, take out the faggot and rub the soup through a fine sieve. 
Put it back in a saucepan to keep warm, and before serving add a 
piece of butter, stirring it well until melted. Serve with boiled 
rice separately. 

PUEEE OP GEEEN PLAGEOLET BEANS, SOUBISE. 

No. 197. — Cook the Beans as in No. 196, and when cooked, drain 
and return them to the saucepan, adding one quart of cream and 
one pint of Soubise sauce diluted to its proper consistency with 
chicken broth. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. 
Bub it through a fine sieve and return it to the saucepan to keep 
warm (not letting it boil). Before serving, add a piece of butter 
and some fine cut chives. Serve separately with small fried bread 
crumbs. 

PUEEE OF FEESH WHITE BEANS, NEWTON STYLE. 

No. 198. —Prepare the puree the same as in No. 196, and before 
serving add a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of four raw 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 45- 

eggs, and a piece of butter, stirring the puree well. Add some fine 
cut cliives or parsley. Serve with a garniture of forced meat of 
chicken, rolled into balls of the size of a pea, poached separately in 
broth. 

PUREE OF FEESH BLACK BEANS, FAUBONNE. 

No. 199. — Prepare the puree the same as in No. 196. Add a thick- 
ened beef broth, and when ready to serve add a garniture of small 
vegetables, cut with a spoon cutter, cooked and glazed. 

CREAM OF GREEN FLAGEOLET BEANS, LELAND STYLE. 

No., 200. — Put one quart of Beans in a saucepan with two quarts 
of boiling water. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished with celery 
and leeks, one onion, into which stick three cloves, one carrot, and 
a little salt. Cook on a brisk fire until done, and then take out the 
carrot, onion, and faggot, and add two quarts of Cream sauce, 
rubbing the whole through a fine sieve. Put it back into a saucepan 
to keep warm. Season to taste, and before serving add a pint of 
cream, into which dilute the yolks of five raw eggs and a piece of 
butter, while stirring the soup well. Add to this soup some green 
of spinach, so as to give it a bright green color. Serve separately 
with some fried peas, as explained in the garniture for soups. 

PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS, PIONEER STYLE. 

No. 201 — Take one quart of dry white Beans. Wash and pick 
them well, allowing them to soak overnight in cold water. Drain 
them, and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of fresh 
water, two quarts of broth, and one pound of salt pork (that has 
been previously washed and parboiled for five minutes), a piece of 
raw ham bone, two onions and two carrots. Cover the saucepan 
and cook slowly until well cooked. Then take out the pork, ham 
bone and carrots, and pound the soup through a fine colander. 
Put it back into the saucepan and season with salt and pepper, 
adding a piece of butter. 

Cut the pork into small square pieces and fry it, and when serving 
add it to the soup with small fried bread crumbs. 

PUREE OF DRY WHITE BEANS, ST. GEORGE. 

No. 202. — Prepare it the same as in No. 201, leaving out the ham 
bone, and when cooked rub it through a fine sieve. Put it back 
into the saucepan to keep warm. When ready to serve add a pint of 



46 HABDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

cream, a piece of butter, some fine cut chives and fine chopped 
chervil. Serve separately with some fried bread crumbs. 

PUREE OF DRY RED BEANS, CONDE, 

No. 203. — Take one quart of Beans. Pick and wash them well 
and then soak them for three hours in two quarts of fresh water. 
Drain them and put them into a saucepan with two quarts of water, 
and one of broth, and put them on the fire to boil. Add a faggot 
of parsley, garnished with leeks and celeiy, two carrots, two onions, 
into which stick four cloves, a piece of raw ham bone, and a little 
salt. Cover the saucepan and cook them slowly until thoroughly 
well done. Then take out the ham bone, the faggot, the onions, 
and the carrots, and pound the soup through a colander. Add two 
quarts of game broth and rub the whole through a fine sieve. Put 
it back into the saucepan and set it on the fire, stirring it well until 
it boils, then set it on the side of the fire and continue boiling 
slowly for half an hour. Skim it, and when ready to serve add a 
piece of butter. Serve with boiled rice or fried bread crumbs. 

PUREE OE BEANS, FOR FAST DAYS. 

No. 204. — All of the purees of beans described in this book, may 
be prepared without using meats or broth, if desired. In this case 
use water, carrots, onions, leeks and celery, and a faggot of parsley, 
well garnished with herbs. When the beans are three-quarters 
cooked add to them the crumbs of a loaf of bread. When 
thoroughly cooked remove the faggot and carrots, leaving the leek, 
celery, and onions, if desired. Then rub the soup through a fine 
sieve and season it properly. 

NOTES ON BEANS. 

No. 205. — When beans are boiled with salt pork they should not 
be seasoned too much, as the pork itself contains considerable salt. 

The pork should be washed in cold water and care taken not to 
use any that is rancid. 

When bacon is used, trim it and then parboil it for five minutes. 
Then immerse it in cold water to remove the smoky taste. 

Dry Beans should first be carefully picked, as there are always 
small stones and pieces of earth mixed with them. Wash them 
well in cold water, and allow them to soak in fresh water over 
night. 

When dry Beans are soaked in lukewarm water, and the water is 
several times renewed, they will cook much quicker than when 
soaked in cold water. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 47 



Article XVIII 



Frci:c:ix BEKTS. German 

Bellerave. Runhel Rube. 

No. 206. — The Beet is a liardy biennial root plant of a blood-red 
color. It contains a large substance of sngar and is much used as 
a vegetable, for salads, and as a relish. It is refreshing and nu- 
tritious when properly prepared. There are five varieties of Beets. 
The Swiss chard, or sea-kale Beet, is a distinct vegetable and much 
superior to the common Beet for greens. If sown at the same time 
as the common varieties, it will be fit to use before them. Later 
on the plants form broad, flat, beautiful white and wax- like stems 
to the leaves, which are very delicious when cooked. The 3'oung 
leaves of the common varieties are cooked with sorrel, or cooked 
and prepared the same as spinach. Still another, variety is called 
the mangel, wdiich is seldom used for the table. 

CULTURE. 

No. 207. — The soil which is suitable for the culture of the Beet 
is that which is rather light than otherwise, provided always that it 
is thoroughly enriched by manure. Sow them in drills one foot 
apart and two inches deep. When the plants have attained three 
or four leaves then thin them out so they may stand five or six 
inches apart. Keep them free from weeds by hand weeding or 
hoeing. In October the roots may be taken up and stored in the 
cellar or in pits outside, like potatoes, care being taken that they 
are not bruised or injured in the process. 

EGYPTIAN BEET TUENIP. 

No. 208. — The earliest Beet and one of the leading market sorts, 
having a deep crimson color. 

BASTIAN's blood TUENIP. 

No. 209. — -An early variety of a blood red color, when properly 
cooked. 

DEWING's blood BEET. 

No. 210. — The roots are of a deep blood red color. It is of fine 
form and flavor, very earl}^ and an excellent variety. 



48 HAEDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

EARLY FLAT BASSANO. 

No. 211. — Chiefly valuable for its earliness. 

LONG- SMOOTH BLOOD RED. 

No. 212. — An excellent late variety. 

EARLY YELLOW BEET. 

213. — Similar to the blood red, but ditferent in color. The flesh 
is yellow, tender and sweet. 

PINE APPLE BEET. 

No. 214. — A highly esteemed English variety of rich deep crim- 
son color. 

BRAZILIAN VARIEGATED. 

No. 215. — Beautiful for garnishing and flower garden decoration. 
The stems and veins are richly colored with crimson, yellow and 
white. 

SWISS CHARD, OR SEA KALE BEET. 

No. 216. — This variety is cultivated solely for its leaves. The 
midrib is stewed and served the same as asparagus, and the other 
parts of the leaves are used like spinach. If it is cut often, new 
and more tender leaves will be produced. 

HOW TO PREPARE BEETS FOR COOKING. 

No. 217, — Beets when young are prepared as a vegetable for the 
table. They must be boiled whole, without having anything cut 
from them except the tops. These must always be cut an inch from 
the root and care taken not to injure the root, for if it is in any way 
injured the beet will lose its flavor and color. When boiled let 
them get cold, then peel or rub off the skin and prepare as needed. 

BOILED BEETS STEWED. 

No. 218. — Boil the Beets, and when done skin and slice them. 
If large, cut them in two and put them in a saucepan. Season with 
salt and pepper and add a piece of butter, tossing them over the 
fire. Serve hot, or boil a glass of vinegar with a piece of butter, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and pour it over the Beets. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 49 

STEWED BEETS, HANOVERIAN STYLE. 

No. 219. — Boil one dozen ordinary sized Beetsand when done skin 
and slice them. Pnt into a saucepan one fine chopped white onion 
with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly and then add a wine-glassful 
of vinegar. When it boils add the sliced beets and four ounces of 
butter. Season with salt and pepper. Toss them over occasionally 
until thoroughly warmed, and before serving add some fine 
chopped parsle}'. 

STEWED BEETS, WITH GEE AM SAUCE. 

No. 220. — Make a Cream sauce seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg- 
and coriander. Add the sliced Beets, and, when thoroughly 
warmed, serve them. 

STEWED BEETS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 221. — Prepare the Beets as first described in No. '218. Add 
a few spoonfuls of Butter sauce, tossing them well over, and befoi'e 
serving add some fine chopped parsley. 

STEWED BEETS, ST. IGNATIUS. 

No. 222. — Chop a white onion fine and put it into a saucepan 
with four ounces of butter. Fry it lightly and then add two soup 
spoonfuls of flour. Cook to a light brown, while stirring it with a 
wooden spoon. Dilute this with a small wine-glassful of vinegar 
and some white broth to make a light sauce. Add three dozen 
young boiled Beets, cut into quarters, allowing them to simmer for 
fifteen minutes. 

ROAST BEETS. 

No. 223. — Use medium sized Beets. Rub them with a towel 
well impregnated with brandy, lay them on a wire crate and place 
it into a roasting pan. This mode will permit them to cook more 
evenly, as it takes about sis hours to have them properly done. 
The crust of the Beet will then be carbonized. In cooking- Beets 
in this manner all the sugary substance of the Beet concentrates in 
the center. It makes a most delicious dish, but is seldom prepared 
in this way in consequence of the time used in cooking. 

BEETS FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 221. — When the Beets are boiled, rub off the skin and trim 
them. Place them whole in earthen jars, covering them with 
4 



50 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

vinegar, and when garnishing salads witii them they are cnt into 
various fancy shapes. 

BEET FRITTERS, CHARTREUSE. 

No. 225.— When the Beets are boiled, peel them and then slice 
them, but not too thin. Spread them on the table and cover half 
the sliced Beets with a thin slice of onion. Then season them with 
salt and a little nutmeg and sprinkle over them a little line chopped 
parsley or chives. Then cover each of these with the other slices 
of Beets, pressing each of them well together. Dip them into 
frying batter and fry in hot lard. Drain them on a napkin and dish 
them up and garnish with fried parsley. 

Note. — Burnet or chives finely chopped may be used with the parsley in seasoning them. 

BEET SUGAR. 

No. 226. — Beets are largely cultivated for the manufacture of 
sugar, which was first made about 1812, by a French chemist, dur- 
ing the blockade and siege of the First Empire. Beet sugar is 
cheaper than that made from the cane, but is not so profitable in 
its use. 

BEET JU/CE FOR SOUPS. 

No. 227. — Beet juice is made for certain kinds of Polish soups, as 
is explained in the book on soups. Peel and cut in quarters enough 
of the finest kind of red beets to fill a small barrel. After putting 
them in the barrel pour in a sufficient quantity of cold water to 
cover them. Then put a linen cloth over the top and the cover 
over that. Place the barrel where the temperature is mild, to allow 
the liquid to ferment. In eight or ten days drain off' the liquid and 
use it as directed. If bread crumbs or barley is used it will bring 
on fermentation much quicker. 

BEET SAEAD W:^TH VEGETABLES. 

No. 228. — Beets mixed with corn salad, lamb lettuce or celery 
make a fine salad. 

Youn^• Beets sliced, with an equal proportion of artichoke 
bottoms, potatoes, white beans and glazed onions, and seasoned 
with salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and nicely arranged in a 
salad bowl garnished with water cress, makes a fine breakfast 
salad. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 51 

PICKLED BEETS. 

No. 229. — When tlie Beets are boiled, slice them and lay them 
in jars, alternating each layer with sliced onions, a little horse- 
radish, and a few cloves. When the jar is fnll, cover them with 
vinegar. These pickled Beets are for immediate iise. 

PICKLED BEETS FOR EELISHES, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 230. — When the Beets are boiled, peel them and cut them 
into slices one-eighth of an inch thick. Lay the slices in layers in 
an earthen jar, alternating each layer with some fine sliced onions, 
a few grains of pepper and coriander (or cumin if desired). When 
the jar is full, pour over the Beets some cold boiled vinegar, into 
which you add (while boiling it) four ounces of sugar to each quart 
of vinegar. Cover them tight and keep in a cool place. 

Note. — If prepared witU cumin, leave out the onions, 

BEETS FOR RELISHES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 231. — Slice fine four cold boiled Beets, and season them with 
salt and pepper. Dish them in relish dishes and set in a cool 
place. Mash the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs fine, and dilute 
them with two soup-spoonfuls of oil and vinegar. When ready to 
serve, pour the sauce over the Beets, and garnish with fine chopped 
hard-boiled eggs. 



Article: XIX. 



Frcuc!i BHI^E. German 

Ben. Bene. 

No. 232. — Bene is said to have been introduced from Africa. It 
is a hardy annual plant, much used in the Southern States. The 
seeds are used for food (being first parched), stewed with meats, 
and are also used for puddings— the same as rice. An oil is 
extracted from the seed, which does not easily become rancid, and 
is used for softening and whitening the skin. The leaves, if 
immersed in a tumbler of water, will convert it into a mucilaginous 
drink, very beneficial in cases of cholera-infantum and diarrhoea. 



HARDEE S AMEEICAN COOKERY. 



CULTURE. 



No. 233. — Sow in spring, as soon as the weather is settled, in^ 
rich, sandy soil, carefully prepared, and allow the plants to stand 
two feet ajDart, keeping the ground loose and free from weeds. The 
plant will yield a greater amount of herbage if the top is broken or 
cut off when three-quarters grown. 

BI-EORMED LEAVED. . 

No. 234. — The plant is large. The lower leaves are two-parted^ 
while those of the upper part of the stalk are oval and entire. 

OVAL LEAVED. 

No. 235. — The stem is about two feet high, with a few short, 
branches. The leaves are oblong, and entire on the borders. 

TEI-FIDE LEAVED. 

No. 236. — This is taller and more vigorous than the preceding: 
kinds. The leaves are tri-fide, or three-parted. 



ARTICIvE: XX, 



FrcEcti BOLETUS (Esculent). German 

Gepes . Morche In .. 

No. 237. — This is a variety of the Mushroom family, comprising 
only two species that are eatable. 

The Boletus etulis is very palatable, resembling the common, 
mushroom in taste. 

The Boletus scaher is of good quality, when young and fresh, but. 
is of little value when dried, as it loses much of its odor and be- 
comes insipid and unfit for use. For preparation, see Mushrooms.. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 53 



Article XXI. 



Trench BORAGK. t^ernian 

Boiirrache. Boretsch. 

No. 238. — Borage is a hardy annual plant, being used as a pot 
lierb and for bee pasturage. The leaves, immersed in water, give 
an agreeable taste and flavor. It is used sometimes for medicinal 
purposes. The leaves when young are often used for salads. The 
"flowers are dried in the shade and used for tisanes. The flower is 
star shaped, colored blue, white or rod, and is occasionally used by 
female cooks to garnish dishes. 

CULTURE. 

No. 289. — Sow in April in rich sandy soil, carefully prepared, in 
drills ten inches apart and half an inch deep. The stalli and foliage 
contains a large proportion of nitre, and when dry they burn like 
match paper. 



Article 



BRIAR LEAVES 

Feuille de R nee. Brier bliitter. 

No. 210. — Briar L3aves are used in diet drinks (tisant s) for colds 
and sore throats. The leaves are driel, placed in boxes, and kept 
in a dry place until used. 



Article XXIII. 



BROCOLI. 

Choux Broccoli Broculi or Sjjargel Kohl. 

No. 241. — Brocoli resembles cauliflower, but is more hardy. In 
parts of this country, where the winter is not severe, it is to be 
had from November to March. It is one of the best vegetables, 
has a fine flavor and is easily digested. There are two kinds, the 



64 HARDER's AMERICAJSf COOKERY. 

white and the purple. The Brocoli is not as compact as the 
cauliflower, its branches being longer and separate. It is prepared 
in all the styles that cauliflower is prepared in. 

CULTURE. 

No. 242. — In the Northern States sow them in May and transplant 
in June. In the Southern States sow them in July and transplant 
in August, as they dislike summer heat more than cold weather. 
They succeed best in a moist and rather cool atmosphere. Sow in 
deep rich soil, with an abundance of moisture, which in dry seasons 
must be applied artificially. 

WHITE CAPE. 

No. 243. — The heads are of medium size; close, compact, and of 
a creamy white color. One of the most certain to head. 

PURPLE CAPE. 

No. 244.— One of the hardiest and most popular varieties, most 
certain to form a good head, and is the earliest of the purple varieties. 

BROCOLI, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 245. — Cut the flower buds of the Brocoli in small bunches, 
boil them in water, lightly salted, and when tender drain them. 
Put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with 
salt and pepper, tossing them over a brisk fire. Before serving 
them pour over them some Anchovy butter sauce, in which add the 
juice of a lemon and some finely chopped parsley. 

BROCOLI WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

No. 246. — Trim and boil them the same as in No. 245. When 
boiled drain them on a napkin, and then pour a Hollaudaise sauce 
over them. Serve hot. 

BROCOLI FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 247. — Cut the flower buds in small pieces and boil them as 
in No. 245. Drain them and serve them in bunches around the 
intended dish, with some reduced Cream or Allemande sauce over 
them. 

BROCOLI CREAM SOUP. 

No. 248. — Prepare them the same as the soup of cream of cauli- 
flower. See article on Cauliflower. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 55 



Article XXIV. 



FrcHch BROOKLINE OR SPEEDWELL. German 

Cressnoe'e Veronique. Wilde Kruosemunze. 

No. 249. — Brooldiiie is a hardy perennial plant, and grows 
naturally in ditches and streams of water. The stem is thick, 
smooth and succulent. It sends out roots at the joints, by which 
the plant spreads. The whole plant is used as a salad, in the same 
manner, and for the same purpose as water cress. It is excellent 
as an anti-scorbutic. 



Articlk XXV. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Choux de Bruxelles. Sprossen Kohl. 

No. 250. — Brussels Sprouts are small cabbage sprouts the size of 
a nut. They get green in the latter part of the fall, and are one of 
the best of winter vegetables, gradually becoming more and more 
appreciated in the United States. The plant grows from two to 
three feet in height, and produces from the axils of the leaves, an 
abundance of sprouts, which have an excellent and mild flavor. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 251. — The culture is the same as for cabbage. If early 
plants are raised in hot beds they will perfect themselves in Sep- 
tember. When the winters are not very severe they may remain in 
the ground, to be cut as needed. 

TALL FRENCH, 

No. 252. — A variety producing an abundance of sprouts. 

DWAEF IMPROVED. 

No. 253. — A variety producing compact sprouts of excellent 
quality. 



56 HAEDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

HOW TO PREPARE BRUSSELS SPROUTS EOE COOKING. 

No. 254. — Wash tlie Sprouts in plenty of cold water, take off the 
outer leaves, drain them and put them into a saucepan with boiling 
water lightly salted. Let them cook on a brisk fire until tender. 
and then immerse them in cold water, and when cold drain them, 
discarding the fallen leaves from the sprouts. If used as a garniture 
they should not be boiled as much as when used as a vegetable. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH. FINE HERBS. 

No. 255. — After the sprouts are boiled as in No. 254, spread them 
on a pan and pick off the outer leaves. Put the sprouts into a 
saucepan with a piece of butter and season them with salt and pep- 
per. Warm them thoroughly and when ready to serve add some 
fine chopped parsley. 

' BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH SAUCE. 

No. 256.— x4-fter the sprouts are prepared as in So. 255, add some 
Allemande sauce, tossing them well together. Serve with some fine 
•chopped parsley over them. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 257. — When the sprouts are boiled as in No. 254, put them 
into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with salt, 
pepper and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the lire until thor- 
oughly warmed, then add some Espagnole sauce. Serve them with 
a garniture of roast chestnuts and small fried sausages around the 
dish. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 258. — When the sprouts are boiled as in No. 254, put them 
into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with salt and 
pei3per and toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed. Dress 
them in bunches around the dish. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNITURE, WITH BROILED MEATS. 

No. 259. — Prepare them the same as in No. 254, adding some 
butter or Allemande sauce, the juice of a lemon and some fine 
chopped parsley. Serve in the center of the dish. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 57 

PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 260. — When tlie sprouts are boiled, drain them. Then put 
them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with 
salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. Toss them over the fire, adding 
some Cream sauce. Should the sprouts not be of a bright green 
color add some green of spinach. Rub the whole through a fine 
sieve. Return them to the saucepan and add a piece of butter and 
a few drops of meat glaze. 



Article XXVI 



BUCK'S-HORN, OR COCK'S-HEAD PLANTAIN. 
rreitcli German 

Plantcdn ou Corn cU Serf. Pdradiesfeiye. 

No. 261. — Tliis is a hardy annual. The root leaves are put forth 
horizontally, and spread regularly about a common center, somewhat 
in the form of a rosette. The plant is cultivated for its leaves, 
which are used as a salad. They should be plucked while young 
and tender, or when half-grown. 

CULTURE. 

No. 262. — It succeeds best in soil comparatively light. Sow in 
April in shallow drills, eight inches apart. When the plants are 
about an inch high thin them to four inches apart. 



Article XXVII. 



BUCKWHEAT. 

Sarrasin ou ble noir. Buchweitzen. 

No. 263. — Buckwheat originated in Asia, but it is now universally 
grown. It is easily cultivated, and in a favorable climate Avill 
produce two croj)s. Its use is healthful and nourishing, and it is 
easy of digestion, especially when boiled with milk. When cold, 
after having been boiled, it is cut in slices and fried. When the 



58 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Buckwheat fiour is made into batter, it makes a winter breakfast 
clisli well known to and appreciated bj all Americans. Buckwheat, 
when made into bread, is only good while in its fresh state, for as 
soon as it becomes dry it splits, and on being cut, crumbles into 
small pieces and becomes hard to digest. 

COMMON BUCKWHEAT. 

No. 264. — Buckwheat should be sown about the middle of June, 
and should be threshed as soon as it is dry, on the ground of a 
barn floor. If allowed to stand in mass it quickly gathers moisture. 

SILVER HULLED BUCKWHEAT. 

No. 265. — This variety is a great improvement on the ordi- 
nary Buckwheat. Sown at the same time as the common Buck- 
wheat, it continues in bloom longer, matures earlier, and yields 
nearly double under the same conditions. The grain is of a 
beautiful light gray color, varying slightly in shade, and the corners 
are much less prominent than in the ordinary variety, while the 
husk is thinner, thereby saving twenty per cent, in the process of 
manufacturing into flour. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITH YEAST. 

No. 266. — Put three pounds of Buckwheat flour into a pan, and 
make a hole in the center of the flour. Pour into this three pints 
of water, two ounces of dissolved compressed yeast, and two 
tablespoonfuls of salt, and mix them slowly to make a light batter 
without lumps. Gather the sides together, cover the pan with a 
cloth and set it in a warm place overnight to raise. Next morning 
mix it up gently before baking. 

Note.— When a little syrup is added to the batter in the morning, they will bake to a nicer 
color. A handful or two of corn meal is often added while mixing the Buckwheat flour. 

BUCKW^HEAT CAKES WITH BAKING POWDER. 

No. 267. — Put into a pan three pounds of Buckwheat flour and 
three soup-spoonfuls of baking powder. Mix them up well, and 
make a hole in the center of the flour, into Avhich pour three pints 
of luke-warm water and two tablespoonfuls of salt and mix to a 
light batter. Ten minutes after mixing, bake it. Should the 
cakes not be light enough, add a little more baking powder, as the 
majority of baking powders are very unreliable. 

Note.— There is to be had a prepared Buckwheat flour, which is much preferable for small 
families. This flour is easily prepared, it being only necessary to use luke-warm water and salt, but 
the batter must be used as soon as mixed. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 59 

BAKING OP BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

No. 268. — Much depends on tlie cooking of the cakes to have 
them done properly. First, the griddle must always^be very clean, 
heated evenly, and should not be allowed to get burning hot. Grease 
it lightly with leaf lard, and drop enough batter to make ordinary 
sized cakes. Let them cook on one side before turning them, and 
serve them hot with sugar or syrup. 



Article XXVIII. 



French BUGLOSS. German 

Buglose. Ochsehzuiige. 

No. 269. — Bugloss is a medical and pot herb plant. It is used 
to make refreshing broths for invalids and in depuratives and 
apozems. The flower of the Bugloss is used for garnishing salads 
and cold relishes. 

CULTURE. 

No. 270. — Same as other pot herbs. 



ArXICIvK XXIX. 



BURNET. 

Pimprenelle. Pimpinelle. 

No. 271. — Is a hardy perennial plant. The leaves, proceeding 
directly from the root, are produced on long stems and are com- 
posed of from eleven to fifteen smaller leaves, which are of an oval 
form, regularly toothed, and not uniformly smooth. The leaves 
have a warm, piquant taste, and are used in salads and occasionally 
as an ingredient in soups. The roots, after being dried and pul- 
verized, are used in cases of internal hemorrhage. There are three 
varieties — the hairy leaved, the large seeded, and the smooth leaved 
Burnet. 

CULTURE. 

No. 272. — Same as other herbs. 



60 HAEDEKS AMERICAN COOKEEY. 



ARTICI.K XXX, 



freiicli CABBAGK. German 

C houx pomme . Kopf kohl. 

No. 273. — The Cabbage is a biennial plant and is propagated from 
seed sown annually. Cabbage is a plant extensively used and is 
prepared in various ways. It is very nutritious and there are many 
varieties. The white, the green and the red may be had all the 
year round. The cauliflower, brocoli, Brussels sprouts and kale all 
belong to the Cabbage family. Cabbage should be well cooked, 
otherwise it will cause indigestion. In boiling Cabbage, if the water 
is changed, it will remove that strong odor disliked by many. To 
preserve Cabbage during winter, pall them on a dry day and turn 
them over on their heads for a few hours so as to let them drain. 
Set them in a cool cellar or bury them with their heads down in 
long trenches in a dry situation. In the Middle States bury the 
heads and parts of the stamp in the open ground, placing over them 
a light covering of straw or boards to protect them from severe 
weather. The Savoy Cabbage is the best of the white sorts. The 
Ted Cabbage is formed the same as the other Cabbages, and onlj^ 
differs from them in color, and is preferred by many to the other 
sorts. It is best in the fall and throughout winter and keeps well, 
but the outer leaves must be occasionally removed, or else they 
will decay. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 274. — For the successful culture of Cabbage the very best 
quality of seed must be used. A heavy moist and fresh loam is most 
suitable, and should be highly manured, as well as deeply worked. 
The early sorts should be sown very early in hot beds, hardened 
off and transplanted eighteen to twenty inches apart, early in the 
spring. In the South, sow them from the middle of September to 
the middle of October, and transplant into cold frames, to preserve 
them through the winter, setting them into open ground as early 
as possible. The late autumn and winter varieties may be sown 
from the middle to the last of spring, and transplanted when about 
six inches high, three feet apart each way. Shade and water the 
late sowings in dry weather to get them up. It is important that 
the plants should stand thinly in the seed bed, or they will run up 
weak and slender, and be liable to make long stumps. In 
transplanting they must be set in the ground up to the first leaf, 
no matter how long the stem maj'- be. Cabbages should be hoed 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 61 

every week, and the ground stirred deeper as they advance iu 
growth, throwing up a little earth to the plant each time, until they 
begin to head, when they should be thoroughly cultivated and left 
to mature. Loosening the roots will often retard the bursting of 
full grown heads. 

EARLY JERSEY WAKEFIELD. 

No. 275. — The heads are very compact, of medium size, conical 
and early, as well as sure as a heading sort. 

EARLY ETAMPES. 

No. 276. — This matures nearly or quite as early as the Jersey 
Wakefield, but is not as pointed. It forms small, compact heads, 
as early as the earliest, and is of excellent quality. 

EARLY YORK. 

No. 277. — Avery valuable early variety, with small, heart-shaped, 
firm and tender heads, of a very dwarf growth. 

EARLY LARGE YORK. 

No. 278. — It succeeds the Early York and is equally desirable.. 
It is of larger size, more robust, and bears the head better. 

EARLY SUGAR LOAF. 

No. 279. — A very compact growing variety. The plants may set 
as close as sixteen inches apart. It is more affected by the heat 
than most of the early varieties. 

LITTLE DIXIE. 

No. 280. — The heads are small, very hard and of very fine flavor.. 
The plant is small but vigorous. 

HENDERSON EARLY SUMMER. 

No. 281. — This is the earliest large heading Cabbage grown. It 
is so compact that it may set as close as the smaller sorts. The 
heads are large, flat or slightly conical. They keep longer without, 
bursting than most of the other sorts. 



62 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

eaely flat dutch. 

No. 282. — The favorite second early sort. The heads are large 
and solid, broad and roundish, very tender, fine grained and of the 
best flavor, and are also well adapted for second crop for fall or 
winter use. 

EAELY DWAEP, FLAT DUTCH. 

No. 283. — An excellent second early variety, which does particu- 
larly well in the Southern States. The heads are of medium size, 
solid and flat. It grows slow on the stump and is of good flavor. 

EAELY WINNINGSTADT. 

No. 284. — This is one of the best for general use, being a very 
sure header, and will grow a hard head under circumstances where 
most kinds would fail. The heads are regular, conical shaped and 
very hard. It keeps well both in summer and winter. 

EAELY BLEICHFIELD GIANT. 

No. 285. — This is a new German variety of Cabbage that has 
been highly recommended wherever tried, and is worthy of exten- 
sive cultivation. It is short stemmed, and is a reliable and very 
solid header of the highest quality. 

FILDEE KEAUT. 

No. 286. — This is similar to the Winuingstadt, but larger and 
more pointed. It is highly esteemed for making kraut, and is good 
either for the first or second crop. 

DEUMHEAD SHOET STEM. 

No. 287. — This is an excellent second early sort and is particu- 
larly recommended for the South, as it withstands the heat well. 
It is a sure header. The heads are low on the stump, being com- 
pact and solid. 

EAELY LAEGE SCHWEINFUET. ■ 

No. 288. — It forms a very large showy head of excellent quality, 
but does not stand the heat well. When grown in perfection it is 
one of the handsomest of the second early sorts. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 63 

IMPERIAL EEENCH OX HEAET. 

No. '289. — This grows low on tlie stump. The heads are very 
close and firm and of a yellowish green color. 

KED DUTCH, FOR PICKLING. 

No. 290. — This is excellent for pickling or eating raw. It forms 
very hard oblong heads, round at the top and of a dark or purple 
color. 

FINE BLOOD RED. 

No. 291. — A. Cabbage of a remarkably deep blood red color and 
a great favorite. 

MARBLEHEAD. 

No. 292. — It is characterized by its sweetness and delicacy of 
flavor and by its reliability in forming a large head. It is very 
hard}^ and will endure the cold of an extreme northern climate. 

LATE FLAT DUTCH. 

No. 293. — This is a low growing variety, with large heads of a 
bluish green color; round, solid, broad and flat on the top. It is 
often tinted with red and brown. An excellent fall and winter 
variety and a good keeper. 

LARGE DRUMHEAD. 

No. 294. — The drumhead Cabbage is a large fall or winter variety, 
with a broad, flat, round head and short stump. It is tender and 
of good flavor and is an excellent keeper. 

MARBLEHEAD MAMMOTH DRUMHEAD. 

No. 295. — The largest Cabbage known, weighing, under good 
cultivation, from thirty to fifty pounds each. 

GREEN GLAZED. 

No. 296. — A standard late variety in the South, not being afi"ected 
by the heat. The heads are large but rather loose and open. It 
is very desirable on account of its immunity from the attacks of 
insects. 



64 hakdee's ameeican cookeey. 

early dwaef ulm savoy. 

No. 297. — This is one of the earliest and sweetest of the Savoy 
Cabbages, with small, round and solid heads. The leaves are 
small, thick, fleshy and of a fine deep green color, and of most 
excellent quality. 

GEEEN GLOBE SAVOY. 

No. 293. — This does not make a firm head, but the whole of it, 
being very tender and of pleasant tiavor, is used for cookhig. The 
leaves are wrinkled and dark green. It is very hardy, being 
improved by frost. 

AMEEICAN SAVOY. 

No. 299. — This closely approaches the cauliflower in its delicacy 
and delicious flavor, and is the best of all the Savoys. It has a 
short stump and grows to a large size, being compact and solid, 
and is a sure header. 

DEUMHEAD SAVOY. 

No. 300. — This grows to a large size, with heads that are nearly 
round, but a little flattened on top. Color, dark green. 

BOILED CABBAGE. 

No. 301. — Wash and clean two heads of Cabbage. Then cut 
them in quarters, cutting out the stalks, and put them in a saucepan 
with boiling water on a brisk fire, to which add a piece of bacon or 
salt pork (the bacon, or pork having been parboiled for five 
minutes). When the Cabbage is well cooked drain it on a colander 
and put the Cabbage into a saucepan, season it with salt and 
pepper. Serve with the bacon or pork nicely trimmed. 

Note. — If the Cabbage is used as a plain vegetable, add a piece of butter. Pig's jowl or corned 
beef may be cooked witb the Cabbage in the same way. 

CABBAGE WITH POTATOES, FLAMANDE. 

No. 302. — When the Cabbage is cooked, as in No. 301, drain it 
on a colander, chop it fine, and put it into a saucepan with one 
quarter of its quantity of mashed potatoes. Mix the whole well 
together and season it with salt and pepper. Add a few spoonfuls 
of thickened veal gravy and let it simmer for half an hour. 

BEAIZED CABBAGE, FEENCH STYLE, 

No. 303. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, cut them into 
quarters and parboil them for fifteen minutes. Then immerse them 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 65 

in cold water, drain them on a napkin, and cut out the stalks. After 
this season them with salt and pepper, and then roll each quarter 
together, covering each one with a thin slice of fat pork, which must 
be tied on with a string. Line the bottom of a deep, flat saucepan, 
with thin slices of fat pork. Slice one carrot and one onion fine, 
and place them on the pork, adding a few grains of pepper and 
cloves, a bay leaf, and a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of 
thyme. Place the Cabbage on top of this, and then moisten it all 
witb sufficient broth to cover it. Put the cover on the pan and 
place it on the fire to boil. When it boils, set it on the side of the 
fire to simmer slowly. When it is all thoroughly cooked, take the 
Cabbage out, remove the string and pork, and put the Cabbage in 
another flat saucepan to keep warm. Then strain the gravy to 
take ofl" the grease, and add three spoonfuls of Allemande sauce to 
reduce it to its consistenc3^ When it is ready to serve, dish up the 
Cabbage and pour the sauce over it. 

CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 304. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage. Cut out the 
stalks and cut the leaves in shreds. Put into a saucepan two finely 
chopped onions and four ounces of butter or lard. Fry them lightly, 
not letting them get brown. Then add the Cabbage and season it 
with salt and pepper. Put on the lid and cook slowly for twenty 
minutes, stirring the Cabbage occasionally, and then add a wine- 
glassful of vinegar. When the moisture is reduced, add a few 
spoonfuls of topping from the stock-pot to nourish the Cabbage. 
Let it cook until thoroughly done. 

CABBAGE WITH BACON, FAMILY STYLE. 

No. 305. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them 
and remove the thickest part of the stalk. Put the Cabbage in a 
saucepan with a piece of parboiled bacon or salt pork, and half a 
dozen sausages. Add to this two carrots, three onions (each gar- 
nished with four cloves), and a faggot composed of parsley, celery, 
a sprig of thyme, and one bay leaf. Cover it all with boiling water 
and season with salt. Place the saucepan on the fire to boil, then 
cover it and let it boil slowly until the Cabbage is thoroughly cooked. 
Then remove the fagi;ot and the onions. When it is ready to serve, 
put the Cabbage on a dish, with the bacon on top, garnish it with 
the sausages and carrots cut in thin slices, and pour a little of the 
gravy over it. 
5 



66 HAKDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



STUFFED CABBAGE. 



No. 306. — Trim off the first outer leaves of two middle-sized solid 
heads of Cabbage. Then parboil the Cabbages for twenty minutes, 
after which immerse them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. 
Then cut out the stalk and turn the leaves carefully out from the 
center. Have a stuffing prepared, composed of two pounds of 
sausage meat seasoned with salt, pepper and spices, with which add 
some cooked fine herbs, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs chopped 
fine, and two dozen roasted chestnuts. Put this stuffing into the 
center of the Cabbages and replace the leaves so as to form the 
shape of the Cabbage. Cover the opening with a thin slice of faii 
pork and tie up the Cabbages with a string so that they may retain 
their shape. Have a saucepan large enough to hold the Cabbage, 
and line it with thin slices of pork. Put the Cabbages into the 
saucepan, leaving the opening on top. Garnish them with one sliced 
carrot, two whole onions (into which stick half a dozen cloves), a 
faggot of parsley, with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Season 
with salt and pepper. Cover them with broth and set the pan on 
the fire to boil. Then put on the lid and let it cook slowly until the 
Cabbages are thoroughly done. After which take out the Cabbages 
carefully, remove the string and dish up the Cabbages. Strain the 
gravy into another saucepan, take off the grease, reduce and thicken 
it lightly, and when ready to serve pour the gravy over the Cabbage. 

STUFFED CABBACxE, HUNTERS' STYLE. 

No. 307. — Prepare two heads of Cabbage the same as in No. 306, 
and fill the center with small sausages prepared in chipolata style, 
roast chestnuts and some boned reed birds. Arrange the leaves of 
the Cabbage and finish them as in No. 306. Put them into a sauce- 
pan, lined with thin slices of fat pork, and garnish them -with two 
carrots, two onions, a faggot of parsley, and some trimmings of ham 
and veal. Season with salt and pepper, and moisten with broth to 
cover. Put on the lid and let them cook slowly until the Cabbages 
are well cooked and glazed. Then take out the Cabbages, remove 
the strings and dish them up. Strain the gravy into another sauce- 
pan, remove the grease, and add four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, 
reducing this to its consistency. Cook some marrow, separately, 
cut it into slices, and add it to the sauce which is served with the 
Cabbage. 

CABBAGE, BISMARCK STYLE. 

No. 308. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them 
and cut off" the thickest part of the stalk, parboil them for ten 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 67 

minutes, and immerse them in cold water. Press each quarter in 
your hand so as to squeeze out the water, then tie each one with a 
string, so that they may keep their shape. Put them into a saucepan 
and season with salt and pepper. Add a piece of butter, two dozen 
small onions, and a faggot of parsley, garnished with bay leaves, 
thyme, and a few grains of pepper. Moisten them with broth to 
cover, letting them cook slowly. When the Cabbages are nearly 
cooked, add one dozen small sausages, and when thoroughly cooked, 
take out the Cabbages and dish them up on pieces of toast, with 
the onions and sausages around the Cabbages. Strain the gravy into 
another saucepan, remove the grease, then reduce and thicken the 
gravy lightly and pour it over the Cabbages. 

CABBAGE WITH CREAM. 

No. 309. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them 
and remove the stalks. Cook them in water lightly salted, and when 
cooked drain them and place them upon a chopping-board and chop 
them finely. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, and when it is 
melted add the Cabbage. Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 
Fry lightly for ten minutes, not letting the Cabbage get scorched. 
Then add one pint of cream, reducing it on a brisk fire. Before 
serving add a piece of butter. 

STEWED CABBAGE, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 310. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, quarter them, 
remove the stalks and cut the leaves into fine shreds. Parboil them 
for five minutes and immerse them in cold water, then drain and 
press them dry. Put into a saucepan a piece of butter, and when 
melted add the Cabbages. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer, 
to reduce the moisture. Prepare separately, and put into a saucepan 
one sliced carrot, one sliced onion and a faggot of parsley, garnished 
with a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, three cloves, and two cloves of 
garlic. Fry them lightly in some clarified butter, to which add one 
quart of broth and a wine-glassful of Maderia wine. Let this cook 
until it is reduced three-quarters. Strain the gravy and remove 
the grease, adding the gravy to the Cabbage, after the moisture of 
the latter has been reduced. Let it simmer until the Cabbage is 
tender and nicely glazed. Before serving drain ofi" the butter, dish 
up the Cabbage, and garnish it with glazed chestnuts and fried 
sausages. Serve separately, a reduced Espagnole sauce. 



68 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

cabbage with quails oe paeteidges. 

No. 311. — Trim and wasli four lieads of Cabbage, quarter tliem 
and cut out tlie stalks. Parboil the Cabbages in water, liglitlj 
salted, until they are three-quarters cooked and then drain them on 
a colander, pressing out the water. After this spread them on a 
table and cut them coarsely, seasoning with salt, pepper and 
nutmeg. 

Dress four partridges, or one dozen quails, as you would for 
roasting. Parboil them for two minutes, then drain and wash 
them in cold water. 

Now line a saucepan with thin slices of fat pork. Put a layer of 
Cabbage in the bottom and around the sides of the saucepan. Then 
arrange on this six quails, four young carrots and two whole onions, 
into which stick six cloves. Cover this with a lnjer of Cabbage. 
Then lay on this the other quails, one-half a pound of parboiled 
bacon and half a dozen small smoked sausages. Cover this with 
the rest of the Cabbage. Put on this a thin layer of sliced pork 
and moisten with drippings of the stock broth. Then put on a but- 
tered paper cover, and on this the lid of the saucepan. Set it on 
the fire, and, as soon as it boils, set it on the side and let it cook 
slowlv for one and a half hours, after which take off the buttered 
paper and pork. Then remove the Cabbage and put it in a colan- 
der to drain, keeping the quails, sausages, bacon and carrots sepa- 
rate. Dish up the Cabbage with the quails, placing the latter so 
that only their breasts are exposed. Cut the bacon and carrots in 
slices and split the sausages in half and garnish the Cabbage and 
quails with them. 

HOT SLAW. 

No. 312. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage. Cut them in 
quarters and cut out the stalks, then cut the leaves into tine shreds. 
Season with salt and pepper. Put into a saucepan lialf a pound of 
fat pork cut into small pieces, and fry it until nicely browned. Add 
to this a wine-glassful of vinegar and the Cabbage, and cover the 
saucepan immediately. Let it simmer slowly for twenty-five minutes. 
Serve as a vegetable or a garniture for roast pork. 

COLD SLAW. 

No. 313. — Cut the leaves of a head of Cabbage into fine shreds, 
and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. 

Note.— Cold Slaw Is generally served -with oysters. A very nice way is to mix red and white 
cabbage and have a cream dressing for it. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 69 

CABBAGE SALAD. 

No. 314. — Trim and wash one head of Cabbage. Quarter it and 
remove the stalks and the hard rib of the leaves. Then cut the 
leaves into fine shreds and parboil them for five minutes. Then 
immerse them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Put them 
in a salad bowl, and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, mix- 
ing- the whole well together. 

Red Cabbage may be prepared in the same way, or it may be 
mixed with white, using half of each kind, and dressed with a mus- 
tard dressing. Garnish with pickled beets and hard-boiled eggs. 

CABBAGE SALAD, BOSTON STYLE. 

No. 315. — -Cut the Cabbnge leaves into fine shreds. Put them in 
a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Put into a saucepan a 
wine-glassful of vinegar and a piece of butter, and set it on the fire 
to boil. Then pour the hot vinegar over the Cabbage and cover the 
bowl. When cold, add a cupful of cream and mix the whole well 
together. Arrange it in the salad bowl and garnish with eggs. 

CABBAGE SALAD WITH CREAM, AMERICAN STYLE. 



No. 316. — Cut the hearts of two heads of Cabbage into fine shred 



o 



IS. 



Put into a saucepan a glass of white wine vinegar, and when it boils, 
add one ounce of butter, and salt and pepper enough to season the 
Cabbage, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and then the Cabbage. 
Let it get thoroughly warm, then put it into an earthen bowl. 
Dilute the yolks of four raw eggs in a little cold milk, strain it 
through a sieve, and add it to a pint of boiling milk while stirring 
it. As soon as it thickens, take it off of the fire, pour it over the 
Cabbage, and mix it well. Cover the bowl, and when cold put it 
into a salad bowl. Dress it in its proper shape, and garnish with 
beets and hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. 

RED CABBAGE SALAD. 

No. 317. — Cut the leaves of a small head of red Cabbage into fine 
shreds. Wash them in cold water, drain them on a napkin, and 
put them into a salad bowl with six hard-boiled eggs chopped up 
finely. Make a dressing of salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, mustard, and a 
pinch of sugar. Pour it over the Cabbage and mix the whole well 
together. Arrange it properly, and garnish it with hard-boiled eggs, 
cut in quarters. If oil is not desired, add clarified butter. 



70 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

eed cabbage, geeman style, 

No. 318. — Trim and wash two heads of Cabbage, cut out the 
stalks, and cut the leaves into fine shreds. Put into a saucepan four 
ounces of butter, with two finely-chopped onions. Fry them lightly 
and add the Cabbage. Season with salt and pepper, cover the 
saucepan, and let it cook slowly until the moisture is reduced Then 
add a wine-glassful of vinegar and half a bottle of red wine. Let it 
■cook until the moisture is nearly reduced, when the Cabbage should 
be well cooked. 

EED CABBAGE, HOLLAND A ISE STYLE. 

No. 319. — Trim and wash two heads of red Cabbage, cut them 
into quarters, remove the stalks and cut the leaves into fine shreds. 
Parboil them for five minutes and then drain them. Put into a 
saucepan a piece of butter with two finely-chopped onions. Fry 
them lightly, and add the Cabbage, with half a dozen peeled, sliced 
apples. Season with salt, pepper, a little fine sugar, and a faggot 
of parsley well garnished. Let them simmer slowly for one hour, 
then add a large glassful of Burgundy wine, and let them cook 
half an hour longer. When ready to serve, take out the faggot, 
add a piece of butter, and toss well together. 

EED CABBAGE, VALENCIENNE STYLE. 

No. 320. — Cut into small pieces two pounds of salt pork or bacon, 
and fry them lightly. To this add two heads of red Cabbage, cut 
into fine shreds. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and moisten 
with half a pint of brotli and half a glassful of Kirschwasser. Then 
lay half a dozen sliced and peeled apples on top of the Cabbage. 
Cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly for one and a half 
hours, without stirring them, but care must be taken not to let the 
Cabbage adhere to the bottom. When ready to serve, toss it all 
well together and garnish with small, fried saus iges. 

CABBAGE FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 321.— The Cabbage as prepared in Nos. 302, 303, 304, 309, 
and 318, can be used for garniture, as may be required. They are 
generally served with sucking pigs, roast pork, boar, geese, etc. 

CABBAGE SOUP. 

No. 322. — Trim the outer leaves of two heads of young Cabbage, 
cut the heads into quarters, remove the stalks, and wash the heads 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 71 

in cold water. Parboil them for fifteen minutes with one pound of 
bacon or salt pork. Immerse them in cold water, drain them in a 
colander, and then press the Cabbages dry. Put into a saucepan 
two pounds of beef from the breast bone or the rump, and arrange 
the cabbages around it. Add a faggot of parsley, garnished with a 
head of celery, two leeks and one bay leaf, two onions^ into which 
stick six cloves, two carrots, and the bacon or pork. Add to this 
one gallon of cold water, then set it on the fire to boil. Skim it and 
season lightly with salt, letting it boil slowly for three hours. Then 
take out the Cabbages and cut them in small pieces. Place them 
in a soup tureen with pieces of toasted French bread, cut to the 
size of half a dollar. Strain the broth, season to taste, and pour it 
into the tureen. Serve hot. 

CABBAGE SEEVED WITH BKOTH, GAEBUEE. 

No. 323. — Trim and wash two young heads of Cabbage, cut them 
in half and remove the stalks. Parboil them in water, lightly salted, 
until three-quarters cooked. Then drain them, separate the leaves, 
and place a layer of them in a silver or earthen baking dish. Put 
on this a layer of thin slices of (iruyere or Swiss cheese, and over 
the cheese put thin slices of bread, alternating this way until the 
dish is full, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, and a little 
nutmeg. Moisten it to cover with good beef broth, and set it in 
an oven to gratinate for an hour. Serve with a soup tureen of good 
beef broth. 

PICKLED CABBAGE. 

No. 324. — Trim the outer leaves of two heads of Cabbage, cut 
them into quarters and remove the stalks. Cut the tender leaves 
into fine shreds and put them into an earthen bowl, with half a 
pound of fine salt to two pounds of Cabbage, and mix well. After 
three days drain oft'the liquid, and put the Cabbage into glass jars, 
filling them three-quarters full. Add a few grains of pepper and 
two bay leaves to each jar holding two quarts. Pour into each jar 
enough of the best wine vinegar to cover the Cabbage well. Close 
the jars tight and keep them in a cool place. After using, be sure 
to tightly cover each jar. 

PICKLED EED CABBAGE, ENGLISH STYLE. 

No. 325 — Prepare the red Cabbage the same as in No. 324. When 
putting the Cabbage in the jar, add some small, peeled and par- 
boiled onions, a few cloves, some small green peppers, and a little 
singer. 



72 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



SAUER KRAUT. 



No. 326. — Saner Kraut is a German preparation and is highly 
esteemed by tliem, when well prepared. It is made in large quanti- 
ties in this country, especially in the Northern States. It is seldom 
made in private families here, as it can be so readily procured of 
dealers at all times. To malie good Saner Kraut, only the best of 
cabbage heads should be used. When prepared to keep for a 
certain length of time, use new barrels, or those which have con- 
tained vinegar or white wine. Sauer Kraut is cabbage cut into fine 
shreds, pickled in salt, and made to ferment in the barrel. To keep 
it well preserved, it must be kept in a cool and even temperature, 
and must be kept well pressed under the brine. It is an agreeable 
vegetable to be eaten with salted meats. 

SAUER KRAUT, HOW TO MAKE. 

No. 327. — Take a barrel and knock out the head. Then set it in 
a stationary, place half a foot from the ground, in a cool and even 
temperature. Bore a hole in the barrel, about two inches from the 
bottom, and put therein a wooden faucet with a strainer inside of 
the barrel. Now select as many cabbages as are needed to fill the 
barrel, using only the best, solid white sorts procurable. Trim off 
the green leaves and cut out the stalks, then cut the cabbage into 
fine, short shreds, using a slide-board which has three or four 
knives, which are made for such a purpose. Place the slide-board 
over a wooden tub to receive the cabbage when it is cut up. Put a 
layer of salt in the bottom of the barrel, and then a layer of cabbage 
two inches thick. Add salt again, then cabbage, and thus alternate 
until the barrel is full. To every thirty pounds of cabbage use one 
and a half pounds of fine salt. 

Note. — A few bay leaves, carraway or anise seed, may be added with the layers of cabbage, but 
should be used only with moderation. 

When the barrel is full, cover the top with a layer of cabbage 
leaves, and spread a linen cloth over this, placing on top of the 
cloth a wooden cover, made to go inside the barrel, and on this 
cover place some heavy weight that will press the cover down very 
tight. Five days after let the brine run off and add the same quan- 
tity of fresh brine, changing it once every sixth day until the brine 
has been changed four times, or until the brine runs clear and 
without odor. To keep Kraut from moulding, the brine must always 
cover the cabbage. Two months after the Kraut is first put in the 
barrel it will be ready for use. Care must be taken to always keep 
the Kraut covered after any of it has been taken from the barrel for 
use. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 73 

SAUEK KRAUT, HOW TO PREPARE FOR COOKING. 

No, 328. — Before cooking tlie Sauer Kraut, soak it in fresli cold 
water for two hours. If it has a strong odor, change the water. 
When ready for cooking drain it. 

SALTER KRAUT, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 329. — Prepare three pounds of Sauer Kraut as in No. 328. 
Chop one large onion fine and put it into a saucepan with two 
ppoonfuls of drippings from the stock-pot or roast meats. Fry it 
to a light brown and then add the Sauer Kraut, three peeled fine- 
sliced apples, one tumblerful of white wine and a pint of broth. 
Cover the saucepan and let it simmer slowly on the fire for two 
hours. Then sprinkle two soup spoonfuls of flour in it, mix it up 
well, and if necessary add a little more broth and let it simmer for 
half an hour longer. When ready, serve it in a deep dish and 
garnish with pig's jowl or fried sausages. 

The pig's jowl may be cooked with the cabbage or separately. 

SAUER KRAUT, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 330.— Prepare the Sauer Kraut as in No. 329. Add to it 
some salted or pickled spare-ribs of pork and one smoked sausnge. 
When this is all well cooked, dish up the Sauer Kraut and garnish 
it with the spare-ribs and the sausages cut in slices. Always prepare 
more than is required for one meal. What is left can be set aside 
in a cool place, and when warmed over two or three days after, 
it will be relished much more than at first, 

SAUER KRAUT, BAVARIAN STYLE. 

No. 331. — When the Sauer Kraut is prepared for cooking, as in 
No. 329, add to it two pounds of fresh pork from the loin or leg. 
When it is well cooked dish it up with the pork. Serve separately 
a dish of potato balls (Kartoffelshnitzhen), poached in broth, lightly 
salted. Dish these up with fine chopped onions, fried in clarified 
butter. Put the latter over the potato balls. 

SAUER KRAUT, FLEMISH STYLE, 

No. 332. — Prepare the Sauer Kraut as in No. 329. When it is 
well cooked, drain it in a colander and put the Sauer Kraut into a 
mould to fit the dish intended to serve it on. Press it into the 



74 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

mould solidls' and keep it warm until ready to serve. Then turn it 
on to the dish, care being taken to keep the Kraut well together. 
Dish on top of it a salmis of snipes or partridges, with a well-reduced 
sauce, and garnish the dish with toasted bread, cut into fancy shapes 
and buttered with lobster butter, into which add a little puree of 
anchovies. 

SAUER KRAUT BAKED, DUFOUR. 

No. 333. — Cut in small scallops an equal quantity of cooked 
smoked beef tongue, calf's head, mushrooms and breast of par- 
tridges. Add to this a reduced Madeira wine sauce. Cook the 
quantity of Sauer Kraut necessary, as in No. 329, and when cooked 
put it into a colander to drain it of its moisture. Then put a layer 
of the Kraut into a baking dish, hollow the middle and add the 
above preparation. Cover this with the rest of the Sauer Kraut, 
filling the dish up nicely. Sprinkle on top some fresh bread crumbs 
and some butter, divided into small pieces. Wipe the borders and 
bake in a slow oven until nicely browned. 

SAUER KRAUT BAKED WITH FILLET OF SOLES. 

No. 334. — Cook the quantity of Sauer Kraut necessary, as in No. 
329. Drain it in a colander and press it dry. Then put it into a 
saucepan (to a pound of Sauer Kraut add half a pint of reduced 
<3ream sauce), with four ounces of lobster butter. Mix this well 
together off of the fire. 

Take out the fillet from six medium-sized soles (or flounders). 
Remove the skin and ^^eason and bread them, frying them in hot 
lard. Drain them on a napkin and let them get cold. 

Place a layer of the Kraut in a baking dish, and on top of this a 
layer of the fried fillet, cut in scollops. Alternate thus until the 
dish is full and cover the top with Sauer Kraiit. Sprinkle on this 
some fresh bread crumbs and some lobster butter, divided into small 
pieces. Wipe the borders, bake in an oven, and serve hot. 

SAUER KRAUT WITH PARTRIDCxES OR QUAIL. 

No. 335. — Cook the Sauer Kraut as in No. 329. When nearly 
done, drain off the moisture. Have ready two roasted partridges, or 
six quails, three-quarters cooked. Add them to the Sauer Kraut 
and cover the saucepan tight. Let them simmer slowly until tlie 
birds are tender. When ready to serve, dish up the Sauer Kraut, 
"with the birds nicely arranged on top. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 75 



Article XXXI. 



CALABASH, OR COMMON GOURDS. 

Frf j:ch Cornian 

Citrouille ou Potiron. Kiirbis. 

No. 336. — The Calabash is of the same family as the squash and 
pumpkin. The fruit, when young, is hairy on the outside, and quite 
soft and tender. The surface, however, becomes hard, smooth and 
glossy when the fruit is ripe. The fruit is only fit for use when 
young, and it is then pickled in vinegar, the same as cucumbers. 
The liesh, when fully ripe, is worthless, but the shells, which are 
hard, light, compact and very strong, are used in the manufacture 
of baskets and for many ornamental purposes. There are four 
varieties: the Bottle Gourd, the Hercules Club, the Powder Horn, 
and the Siphon Gourd. They are cultivated in the same manner as 
squash or pumpkins. 



Articlk XXXII 



CALAMINT. 

Caluweiit ou Calamus. Kalaminth. 

No. 337. — Calamint is an aromatic root, of the Oriis variety, 
having a delicate, violet odor, and is used as a substitute to impart 
a violet flavor. 

To make the flavor, by infusion, cut the roots in small pieces, put 
them in a bottle, pour alcohol over them, and then cork the bottle 
tight. Pastry cooks use the roots for flavoring when they are dried 
and pulverized. 



Articlk XXXIII. 



CANTALOUPE OR PERSIAN MELONS. 

Contal up. Mehne. 

No. 338. — Cantaloupes difi^er remarkably from the common varie- 
ties usually cultivated. They are destitute of the thick, hard rind 
which characterizes the common melons and which renders so large 
a portion of the melon useless. The skin of the Persian Melon is 



76 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

tliin and delicate, the flesh being extremely tender, rich and sweet, 
flowing copiously with a cool juice that renders them still more 
grateful. They are not an early melon, and for their perfection 
require a long and warm season. 

GERMEK. 

No. 339. — This is a handsome, larp;e-sized fruit, with a deep green 
skin, closely netted. The flesh is from one to two inches deep, and 
is of a clear greeu color, firm, juicv, and highly flavored. It is an 
excellent variety and an abundant bearer. 

GEREE. 

No. 3-10. — This is a handsome, green fruit, oval-shaped, with a 
short stalk. The flesh is aboiit two inches thick, of a bright green 
color, being very sweet and highly flavored. It is a good bearer, 
requiring a long, warm season. 

DAREE. 

No. 341. — This resembles the Geree in shape. The flesh is white, 
thick and crisp, melting when fully ripened. If imperfectly matured, 
it is generally insipid, but always remains cool and pleasant. 

GREEN HOOSAINE. 

So. 342. — This is a handsome, egg-shaped fruit. When unripe 
it is of a deep green color, but in maturity it acquires a fine, even, 
light green, regularly netted surface. The exposed side becomes 
rather yellow in color. The flesh has a pale green and white tint, 
and is tender aud delicate and full of highly perfumed, sweet juice. 
It is a hardy variety, of great excellence, and a good bearer. 

GREEN VALEXCIA. 

No. 343. — A desirable winter variety, of much excellence, a great 
bearer and very hardy. Though not rich in flavor, it is firm, 
saccharine and juicy. 

ISPAHAN. 

No. 344. — This is said to be the most delicate of all Melons. It 
is egg-shaped, weighing from six to eight pounds. The skin is 
nearly smooth and of a deep sulphur yellow color. The flesh, which 
extends nearly half way to the center, is nearly white in color and 
is crisp, sugary and very rich. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 77 

MELON OF KEISING. * 

No. o45. — This differs from the sweet Ispahan in being a closely 
netted Melon, egg-shaped, and regularly and handsomely formed, 
though extremely delicate. The skin is of a pale lemon color, and 
th ! liesh nearly white and from one to two and a quarter inches 
thick. It flows copiously with juice, and is sweet and high flavored. 
The rind is thin but firm. 

MELON OF SEEN. ' 

No. 346. — An oval-shaped Melon, of handsome appearance, with 
a small mamelon at the apex. The surface has a pale, dusky yellow 
color, and is regularly and closely netted, except the mamelon. 
The rind is very thin, and the flesh is from an inch to two inches 
thick, of a pale green color, sometimes becoming reddish towards 
the center. It is exceedingly tender, and has sweet and delicately 
perfumed juice. It bears well, but requires a long season. 

HOW TO SERVE CANTALOUPES. 

No. 347. — Cantaloupes are served before breakfast, and before 
dinner as a relish, or after dinner as a dessert. They should always 
be kept in a cool place an hour before serving. Select a Melon not 
over ripe, cut it in half and take out the seeds. Then cut it in 
ordinary sized slices and pass a knife under the flesh, without 
detaching it altogether from the rind. Serve it on a napkin, with 
salt and pepper. 

MELONS PPvESEKVED IN CANS. 

No. 348. — All of the varieties of Melons can be preserved. The 
best are preferred, and they must not be too ripe. Cut the Melons 
in slices and remove the seeds and the softest part of the Melon. 
Then peel the outside of the rind and cut the hard part of the Melon 
in scallops, parboil them until tender and drain them. Put them 
in an earthen jar and cover them with a light syrup for three hours. 
Then take them out, arrange them in quart cans and cover them 
wnth a vanilla flavored syrup of thirty-two degrees. Then solder 
on the covers and boil them in a hot water bath for half an hour. 

PEESEEVED MELONS IN SYEUP. 

No. 349. — Select Melons that are not too ripe. Cut them in 
slices, remove the seeds and peel off the rind. Cut the slices in 
three or four pieces, parboil them until tender, and then immerse 



78 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

them in cold water for two hours. Then take them out, trim the 
pieces of Melon and pnt them in an earthen jar. Cover them with 
a cold syrup at fourteen degrees for two hours and then drain off 
the syrup. Cook it to sixteen degrees, and when lukewarm turn it 
over them again. Repeat this four times, twice a day. The fifth 
time cook the syrup to thirty-two degrees and put in the Melon. 
Let it boil up once and then let it stand on the side of the fire for 
one and a half hours. Then take it ofi", and when cool put them in 
jars, covered tight, and set them in a cool dry place. If, after a 
certain time, they should ferment, boil them over again. 



Article XXXIV. 



Frencli CAPERS. German 

C'r'ipre. Kaper. 

No. 350. — The Caper bush grows in warm climates. The young 
buds are picked and then pickled for use. They are preferred when 
small, and of a bright green color. They have a warm, aromatic 
taste, and are used in sauces, salads, and various other culinary 
preparations. 

CAPERS PICKLED IN VINEGAR. 

No. 351. — Pick out small Capers, all of the same size, as they 
are the best. Those developed are not fit for use. Pick off the- 
stems and put the Capers in jars or bottles, and cover them with 
cold, boiled vinegar. A sprig of Tarragon in each bottle will afford 
an excellent flavor. Keep the bottles corked tight, and in three or 
four weeks the Capers will be ready for use. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

No 352. — This is simply a butter sauce with Capers added, and 
is generally' served with boiled mutton and fish. 



Article XXXV. 



CAPILLARY OR VENUSHAIR. 

Capillaire. Fraiienhaarsyrup,. 

No. 353. — There are three varieties — the white, black, and 
Canadian — the latter kind being used most. They are diuretic, 
stomachic, and principally bechic. The Capillary syrup has all the 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 79 

virtue of the plant, and is used by pastry cooks for Bavarian creams, 
etc. The Capillary sj^rup and the syrup of marsh mallow have the 
same properties, and are used for the same purposes. 

CAPILLAEY SYRUP. 

No. 354. — Take seven pounds of sugar and boil it to a light syrup. 
When it is boiling hot pour it over sis ounces of Capillary. Then 
cover it and let it lay until next day, when you will drain off the 
syrup, boil it again to thirty-two degrees, and then pour it boiling 
hot over the Capillary again. When it is cold, strain it and put it 
in bottles. 

Note —When the Capillary is boiled -with the syrup, its flavor evaporates somewhat, and leaves a. 
disagreeable taste. 



ARTrici^K XXXVI. 



Freitcli CARAW^AY. KerKJian 

Carvi. Kumme.L. 

No. 355. — Caraway is a biennial plant of the parsley family. 
The seeds have an aromatic flavor and a warm pungent taste. 
Caraway is cultivated for its seeds, which are used by bakers, 
confectioners, and distillers, and also in medicine — as a carminative. 

CULTURE. 

No. 356. — Sow it in August, and the plant will give a fair crop of 
seed the next season. Plant it in drills and thin it to six inches 
apart. 



Article XXXVII. 



CARDOON. 

Gar don. Kardon. 

No. 357. — There are two kinds of Cardoons — the Spanish and the 
ordinary — of which there are several species — which are cultivated 
for the stems and midribs. The Spanish variety is preferred, as 
the stems are thicker than the ordinary, the latter having the 



80 habdee's amekican cookeky. 

flavor of artichokes. It is a vegetable much esteemed in Europe, 
though seldom used in this country, but it is becoming popular here. 
The flowers are gathered and dried in the shade, and are used to 
coagulate milk. 

cultuee. 

No. 358. — Cardoon is grown for the midribs of the leaves, which 
require to be blanched the same as celery. When the plants are to 
remain, sow them early in spring, in drills three feet apart and an 
inch and a half deep. Then thin out the young plants to a foot 
apart in drills. 

LARGE SPANISH. 

No. 359. — The ribs are longer than in the ordinary Cardoon, and 
the whole plant is much stronger. It runs up to seed quicker than 
the other varietj". 

THE ORDINARY. 

No. 360. — This is of a shiny green color, the stems growing about 
five feet high. Its leaves are large and strong. 

ARTICHOKE LEAVED. 

No. 361. — This is remarkable for its strong growth and the tliick- 
ness of its midribs, which are almost solid. It is a tender and fine 
variety. 

LAEGE TOURS SOLID. 

No. 362. — The midribs are large and solid, yet tender and 
delicate. Notwithstanding the inconvenience arising on account of 
its numerous and rigid spines, it is considered one of the best varie- 
ties. 

CARDOONS WITH MARROW. 

No. 363. — Take six white and solid Cardoon stems (the hard and 
hollow ones are of no use) and cut them four inches in length. As 
you prepare them put them in a pan of cold water, acidulated. 
Have a saucepanful of boiling water on the fire, in which you will 
put the ]uice of five lemons. Put the pieces of Cardoon in this 
water and parboil them until you can peel off the outer surface 
easily. Take them ofi* of the fire to peel and trim them, adding 
sufiicient cold water to allow you to put your hand in the water. 
Then put the peeled Cardoons in fresh water and drain them on a 
napkin. Prepare a deep flat saucepan lined with fine slices of fat 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 81 

pork, in which you will put the Cardoons. Season them well with 
salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, and moisten with enough broth to 
cover them. Add the juice of two lemons and cover the Cardoons 
with thin slices of fat pork. Put on the lid and let them boil, after 
which let them cook slowly. When done drain them on a napkin. 
Dish them up and then pour a reduced Espagnole sauce over them, 
garnish around the dish with small patties or buttered toast filled 
with scallops of marrow cooked with fine herbs. Then serve. 

CAEDOONS WITH PAEMESAN CHEESE. 

No. 364. — Prepare and cook them the same as No. 363, and when 
done drain them on a napkin and trim them. Arrange a layer of 
Cardoons in a buttered baking dish, add a little reduced Espagnole 
sauce and sprinkle it with Parmesan cheese. Make three layers 
like this and sprinkle the top with Parmesan cheese and fresh bread 
crumbs mixed together. Wipe ofi" the border, put a little butter 
on the top, and then bake it in the oven. 

CAEDOONS, WITH CEEAM SAUCE. 

No. 365. — Prepare and cook them the same as in No. 363, and 
when cooked drain them on a napkin. Dish them up and then 
pour over them a Cream sauce, to which add a spoonful of half glaze. 

CAEDOONS, WITH ESSENCE OF HAM. 

No. 366. — When the Cardoons are parboiled and cleaned, as in 
No. 363, put them in a flat saucepan with a glass of white wine and 
some broth to cover them. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch 
of sugar, and let them cook until the moisture is reduced, and they 
are nicely glazed. Then put them in a dish, and pour over them a 
reduced brown sauce, with essence of ham. 

CAEDOON FETCASSEE. 

No. 367. — Cook the Cardoons as in No. 368, and reduce the 
moisture without letting them get brown. Take out the faggot and 
add a few spoonfuls of AUemande sauce and the juice of one lemon. 
Toss it all well together, and serve with a garniture of buttered 
toasted bread, cut in fancy shapes. 

CAEDOONS FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 368. — Cut the Cardoons in pieces one and a half inches long. 
Parboil and clean them as in No. 363, and drain them on a napkin. 
6 



82 haeder's ameeican cookery. 

Pat them in a flat saucepan, with a small piece of butter. Moisten 
them with white broth, and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch 
of sugar, and add the juice of a lemon and a faggot of parsley, 
garnished with a piece of lean ham. Let them cook slowly until 
tender, and then take out the faggot. The moisture must be well 
reduced. Take the pan off of the fire, and add a small piece of 
butter and a little chopped parsley. Toss them well together until 
the butter is melted, and then serve as required. 

puree of caedoons. 

No. 369. — Prepare and cook them as in No. 368. When well 
cooked take out the faggot, reduce the broth, and add two spoon- 
fuls of Allemande or Cream sauce. Rub them through a fine sieve, 
put them back in the saucepan, and before serving add a small 
piece of butter. 

CAEDOON SALAD, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 370. — Prepare and cook the Cardoons the same as in No. 363. 
Then cut them in scollops an inch long and drain them on a napkin. 
Put them in a salad bowl and season them with salt and pepper. 
Then chop two cloves of garlic very fine and put them in a frying 
pan with a little sweet oil. Fry them lightly (not letting them get 
brown), and add immediately some bell peppers, chopped fine, and 
some vinegar. Then let them boil up for two minutes and pour the 
dressing over the Cardoons, mixing them well together, and then 
serve. 

CAEDOONS PEESEEVED. 

No. 371. — Prepare and clean the Cardoons as in No. 363. Cut 
them all the same size and drain them. Then put one gallon of 
water in a saucepan, and when it boils, add two spoonfuls of flour, 
diluted in cold water, a little salt, and the juice of two lemons. 
Stir it until it boils, so it will not get lumpy. AVhen it boils, add the 
Cardoons, and cook them until tender. Take the saucepan ofi^ of the 
fire and let the Cardoons get cold. Take each piece out and dip them 
in lukewarm water, and place them in quart tin cans. Cover them 
with cold-boiled water, lightly salted. Then solder on the cover,, 
and cook them in a hot bath for two hours. 

CARDOONS PUREE, PRESERVED. 

No. 372. — Prepare and cook the Cardoons as in No. 363. When 
they are cooked tender, drain them. Rub them through a fine- 
sieve, and put the puree in pint tin cans. Solder on the covers, 
and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 83 



Arxict.K XXXVIII. 



Frencb CARROT. German 

Car rote. Moehre. 

No. 373. — The Carrot is a biennial root, somewhat hardy, and is 
one of the most healthful and nutritious of garden roots. It is 
extensively used as a vegeteble for the table, and for seasoning and 
garnitures. It contains a certain amount of sugar, which adds to 
its nutritious quality. There are several different varieties, all of 
which can be obtained all the year round. The larger varieties are 
also cultivated as an agricultural root, and are better suited than 
other kinds of food for dairy cattle, not alone because they are 
nutritious, but because they impart a good color and flavor to the 
butter. 

CULTUKE. 

No. 374. — The Carrot succeeds best in light, sandy loam, made 
rich by manuring the previous year. The roots often grow pronged 
and ill-shaped, in imperfectly manured ground. It is better to sow 
as early in spring as the ground can be got ready, but if planting is 
necessarily delayed until late in the season, the seed must be soaked 
in tepid water twenty-four hours, then dry it by mixing in sifted 
ashes, and sow it in fully prepared soil. 

EAELY EKENCH FOKCING. 

No. 375. — This is the earliest variety, is valuable for forcing, and 
has a small root of fine flavor. 

EAELY SCARLET HORN. 

No. 376. — An old and favorite variety, much esteemed for sum- 
mer use. 

HALF LONG RED (STUNTED EGOTS). 

No. 377. — A variety intermediate in size, with stunted roots. Its 
period of maturity is between the Early Scarlet Horn and the Long 
Orange. 

HALF LONG SCARLET (POINTED EOOTS). 

No. 378. — -This is similar to the Half Long Eed with stunted 
roots, except that the roots are pointed. 



84: HAEDEE S AMERICAN COOKEEY. 

EAELY HALF LONG SCAELET CAEENTON. 

No. 379. — An early variety without core, and is excellent for 
forcing, or is used as an early kind for planting in the open ground. 

LONG OEANGE. 

No. 380. — It is adapted for garden or farm culture, and has large- 
sized roots. 

^ DANVEES. 

No. 381. — This is a valuable variety having the smallest root of 
any kind grown, but it will yield the greatest bulk. Its color is a 
rich shade of orange and it grows very smooth and handsome. 

ALTEINGHAM. 

No. 382. — An excellent variety, large and finely iiavored. 

LAEGE WHITE BELGIAN. 

No. 383. — A very productive variety, but grown almost exclusive- 
ly for stock. 

YELLOW BELGIAN. 

No. 384. — When young, the roots are mild, delicate and of good 
flavor; when full grown, it is only valuable for stock. 

HOW TO PEEPAEE CAEEOTS EOE COOKING. 

No. 385. — Carrots should always be scraped, and should only be 
prepared when ready for use. When young use them as a vegeta- 
ble, and prefer those that are stunt rooted. Cook them whole, or 
cut them in small parts. The large carrots are cut in different 
shapes, with spoon cutters, for garnitures, but when used as a veg- 
etable, cut them in a short, thick Julienne. When used for Julienne 
soup, cut them two inches crosswise; then slice them, and cut them 
lengthwise in small stems. When they get older, use only the red 
part, which you peel off by cutting it the same thickness. In this 
way the pieces will stay whole, but in the other way the pieces will 
break off when cooked. 

CAEEOTS MAITEE D' HOTEL. 

No. 386. — Take three dozen young carrots and cut each one in 
half, then put them in water lightly salted, and when three quarters 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 85 

done, drain them. Put tliem in a saucepan with a piece of butter 
and a pint of broth, and season with salt and pepper and a pinch of 
sugar. Then put them over a brisk fire, and when the moisture is 
reduced, the carrots must be cooked. Add two spoonfuls of Alle- 
mande sauce and a little parsley chopped fine, then toss them well 
together and serve. When large carrots are used, slice and prepare 
them as you would young carrots. 

CAKKOTS STEWED, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 387. — Prepare the carrots the same as in No. 386. When 
the broth is reduced, add a piece of butter, in which you will mix 
two spoonfuls of flour. Dilute it with some broth, then let it simmer 
slowly for ten minutes, add some fine chopped parsley, and then serve. 

CARROTS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 388. — Cut the Carrots in any shape desired, then boil them 
in water lightly salted, and when tender drain them. Then put 
them in a saucepan and season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg 
and a pinch of sugar, and add a piece of butter. Toss them over 
the fire a few minutes, then add four spoonfuls of Butter sauce and 
serve. 

CARROTS WITH GREEN PEAS, STRASBOURGEOISE. 

No. 389. — Parboil two dozen young Carrots for five minutes, then 
drain them. After tliis put them in a saucepan with a piece of but- 
ter, then toss them over the fire and season with salt, pepper and a 
pinch of sugar. Moisten them with white broth, and when they are 
half cooked add as much green peas as you have Carrots, and a 
faggot of parsley garnished. Cover the saucepan and cook them 
on a brisk fire. When tender add two spoonfuls of Cream sauce. 
Toss them well together over the fire and add a piece of butter be- 
fore serving. 

STEWED CARROTS, INDIAN STYLE. 

No. 390. — Cut and trim two dozen young Carrots, all of even size. 
Put them in water to cover them. Then season with salt, pepper 
and sugar,' and add a piece of butter. Cook them until tender. 
Then slice an onion and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. 
Fry it lightly, adding a soup-spoonful of flour and a teaspoonful of 
curry powder. Let it cook for a minute, while stirring it 
well, and mix with it a glassful of cream and some of the Carrot 
broth to make a clear sauce. Add the Carrots then, and season 
with salt and pepper, and let them simmer for fifteen minutes. 



'86 haeder's ameeican cookeey. 



CAEEOTS stewed FOE GARNITUEE. 



No. 391. — Cut three dozen Carrots iu a short, thick Julienne. 
Boil them, and when done, drain them. Put in a flat saucej)an a 
piece of butter, and set it on the fire. When the butter commences 
to get brown, add the Carrots. Toss them well over the fire, add 
some chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper, a pinch of sugar, 
and add two spoonfuls of butter sauce. 

CAEEOTS FOE LAEGE GAENITURE, FLAMENT. 

No. 392. — Take three dozen young Carrots, trim them in nice 
shape or cut them with large spoon cutters. Parboil them for five 
minutes and then drain them. Then put them in a saucepan with 
a piece of butter, a pinch of sugar and a pint of white broth. Cook 
them until the broth is reduced and the Carrots glazed. Serve 
them as needed. 

CAEEOTS FOR SMALL GAENITUEE, OLIVE-SHAPED. 

No. 393. — Cut as many Carrots as are needed, in olive shape, 
with a spoon cutter. Cook them the same as in No. 392, and when 
glazed add four spoonfuls of Cream, Allemande or Brown sauce, 
which-ever may be desired. 

CAEEOT GAENITUEE, NIVEENAISE. 

No. 394. — Cut the Carrots wdth a channelled spoon cutter, the 
size of a small olive. Cook them the same as in No. 392. When well 
glazed, add a small piece of butter and a little chopped parsley. 
Toss them well together, and serve with articles needed in Niver- 
naise style. 

CAEEOT PUEEE FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 395. — Use young carrots or only the red parts of old ones. 
When washed and cleaned, parboil them for fifteen minutes, and 
then drain them in a colander. Put them in a saucepan with a piece 
of butter, and season with salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar and a little 
nutmeg. Put on the lid, set them over a slow fire and let them 
simmer, turning them occasionally, not letting them get brown. 
Moisten with a little broth, and when cooked and lightly glazed, 
add a reduced Allemande or cream sauce. Then rub it through a 
fine sieve, put it back in the saucepan and warm it thoroughly. 
Before serving, add a piece of butter. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 87 



CAKKOT SOUP PUREE, AURORE. 



No. 396. — Take three dozen vonng Carrots, or the reel parts of 
old ones, and slice them in fine pieces. Put them in a saucepan 
with a piec3 of butter, two onions, two pieces of celery, a faggot of 
parsley garnished with a leek, a little salt and a pinch of sugar. 
Cover the saucepan and let them simmer until the moisture is 
reduced, not letting them burn or get browned. Then add one 
quart of broth, and cook slowly until done. Then add one gallon 
of fchickened veal or chicken broth, and let it all boil slowly for 
twenty minutes. Then take out the faggot, skim the top, and rub 
the puree through a fine sieve. Put it back into the saucepan to 
keep warm, and before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it well 
until melted. Serve Avith small fried bread-crumbs, separate. 

CARROT SOUP PUREE, STANLEY 

No. 397. — Prepare the puree the same as in No. 393. Before 
serving, add a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of six raw 
eggs and a piece of butter. Then add a garniture of balls of 
forced meat of chicken, green peas and asparagus tops, cooked 
separate. 

CARROT SOUP PUREE, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 398. — Prepare the Carrots as in No. 396. When the moist- 
ure is reduced add two quarts of broth and the crumbs of a loaf 
of white bread. Let them cook slowly until the Carrots are thor- 
oughly done. Then add two quarts of cream sauce while stirring 
it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick add some broth, to 
biring it to the proper consistency. After fifteen minutes, rub it 
all through a fine sieve, put it back on the fire to keep warm, then 
•add a piece of butter and season to taste. Before serving, add some 
Yermicelli or Noodles cooked in broth. 

SOUP PUREE, CRECY. 

No. 399. — -Cut the red part of two dozen Carrots in small pieces, 
parboil them for two minutes and drain them in a colander. Put 
them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and add two white onions 
sliced and the white part of two leeks. Let them simmer for five 
minutes until the moisture is reduced, stirring it occasionally. 
Then add two quarts of white broth, half a pound of rice or the 
■crumbs of one square loaf of bread. Cook them slowly until 
well cooked, and add three quarts of chicken or veal broth, seasoned 
with salt, pepper and sugar. Eub the puree through a fine sieve, 



»» HARDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

then put it back in the saucepan, stirring it until it boils. Then 
let it cook slowly for half an hour, then skim it and add a piece of 
butter. Serve it with small fried bread crumbs. In this soup 
boiled rice or any other paste may be used. 

CARROT SOUP PUREE, CRECY, FOR EAST DAYS. 

No. 400. — Prepare it the same as in No. 399. Use vegetable 
consomme in place of chicken or veal broth. 

CARROTS PICKLED. 

No. 401. — Use small young Carrots. Trim them, parboil them 
two minutes, and then peel them. Put them in a saucepan with 
boiling water lightly salted. Cook them until nearly done, then 
drain them and put them in earthen jars with enough cold boiled 
vinegar to cover them. Let it lay until next day, when you will 
draw off the vinegar and boil it, adding a little salt. Put the Car- 
rots in a two-quart jar and pour the vinegar, when cold, over them 
(just enough to cover them). Then add half a dozen cloves and 
three bay leaves. Cover the jar tight and keep it in a cool place. 
Use them for garnishing, the same as beets. 

CARROTS PRESERVED FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 402. — Use young Carrots and cut them in any shape, but 
nearly all of the same size. Parboil them until half cooked, in 
water lightly salted. Drain and then dry them on a towel, and 
when cold put them in quart tin cans. Cover them with boiled 
water lightly salted. Then solder on the covers and boil in a hot 
water bath for one hour and a half. If you use whole Carrots, you 
must boil them for two hours. 

PUREE OF CARROTS PRESERVED FOR SOUPS OR GARNITURES. 

No. 403. — Use only the red part of four dozen Carrots. Slice 
them in fine pieces, parboil them five minutes, then drain them. 
Put them in a saucepan with two quarts of plain veal broth. Let 
them cook until the Carrots are well cooked, and then rub them 
through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in quart tin cans, solder 
on the covers, and boil in a hot water bath for an hour and a half. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 89 



Article xxxix. 



rre«c:i CATERPILLAR. German 

Scorpiure. Baupenpjianzen. 

No. 404. — A liardy annual plant with creeping stems, tliat are 
about two feet in length. The seeds are produced in pods. No 
part of the plant is eatable, but the pods, in their green state, are 
placed upon dishes of salad, and so closely do they resemble a real 
caterpillar, that they will oftentimes deceive the uninitiated. 

CULTURE. 

No. 405. — Sow them in April, fifteen inches apart, in rows that 
are fifteen inches wide. » 



Article; XL. 



CATNIP. 

Nepeta. Katzenkraut^ 

No. 406. — This is a hardy perennial plant, well known as a mild 
nervine for infants. The plant should be pulled up by the roots 
when in full flower, tind dried in the shade. 

CULTURE. 

No. 407. — The seeds may be sown in drills, twenty inches apart, 
either in the fall or in spring. 



Article XLI. 



CATSUP. 

Catsup. Catchup^ 

No. 408. — Too much care cannot be taken in buying Catsup, as 
there are many spurious imitations made that are deleterious to 
health, often producing dyspepsia, etc. It is made of tomatoes. 



^0 haeder's ameeican cookery. 

mnslirooms, walnuts, etc., as described elsewliere in this book and 
can be made in any family far superior to that which is purchased 
in stores, and having the advantage of being pure and healthful. 



ARTICIvK XLII 



FrcKcli CAULIFLOWER German 

Ohoufleur. Blumen Kohl. 

No. 409,— The Cauliflower, like Brocoli, is an annual plant, being 
delicious in flavor. It requires a cool, moist atmosphere to bring 
it to perfection, and if this condition occurs when the plant is about 
to head, fine large heads will result, whereas, if the air is hot and 
dry, failure will result in spite of the best of seeds and cultivation. 
Brocoli is a species of Cauliflower, and both are prepared in the 
same style. See Brocoli, Article XXIII. 

CULTURE. 

No. 410. — For the spring or summer crop, sow the early varieties, 
about the last of winter, in hot-beds, and transplant them into the 
open air as soon as the ground can be worked. For the late autumn 
crop, sow the late varieties about the middle of spring, and trans- 
plant them as you would winter cabbages. In dry weather water 
them freely, and as they advance in growth hoe deep and draw 
earth to the stems. After they begin to head they should be watered 
every other day. In two or three weeks the strongest will begin to 
form flower heads, which should be cut for use while the curd is close 
and compact. It is then tender and delicious, but later on the head 
opens and separates into branches and soon becomes coarse, fibrous, 
strongly flavored, and unfit for use. The leaves should be gathered 
and tied loosely over the tops of the heads to facilitate blanching. 
On the approach of frost, those plants that have not headed may 
be set out in a cellar and can be aired in mild weather. 

EARLY SNOWBALL. 

No. 411. — This is the earliest of all Cauliflowers. Its heads 
measure from 8 to 9 inches in diameter. Every plant forms a fine 
head. Its dwarf habit and short interleaves allow it to be planted 
as close as 18 inches apart each way. This variety does equally 
well for late planting. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 91 

EAELY DWARF ERFURT. 

No. 412. — An early dwarf variety, having large white coaipact 
heads of the finest quality. 

EARLY PARIS. 

No. 413. — An excellent variety. 

NONPAREIL. 

No. 414, — A half early variety and one of the best. 

EARLY LONDON. 

No. 415. — An excellent and very early variety. 

LENORMAND SHORT STEMMED. 

No. 416. — A large late variety, with well-formed heads of superior 
quality. 

WALCHEREN. 

No. 417. — An old and favorite variety. 

ALGIERS. 

No. 418. — An excellent late variety, in general favor. 

WEITH's AUTUMN GIANT. 

No. 419. — A valuable late variety, particularly in the Southern 
States and California. 

HOW TO PREPARE CAULIFLOWER FOR COOKING. 

No. 420. — Cut the root close to the stem, then trim off all of the 
leaves and wash them carefully in cold water, as there are often 
some insects among the stems and buds. 

CAULIFLOWER, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 421. — Wash and trim them as in No. 420. Put them in a 
saucepan with enough water to cover them, and add a little salt 
when they boil. Let them cook slowly, adding a little milk and a 



92 Hardee's American cookery. 

piece of butter. When cooked, drain them on a napkin and be 
careful not to break the flowered buds. Serve on a napkin, -uith 
Butter sauce separate. 

CAULIFLOWER, HOLLAND AISE, 

No. 422. — Prepare the same as in No. 420. When cooked, drain 
them on a napkin. Put the Cauliflowers on a dish and pvit Hollan- 
daise sauce over them. 

If they are small and detached, put them in a bowl with the heads 
downward. Press them lightly, moulding them together, as it 
yyexe, in the bowl, so they will all form together, making one large 
head. Then put it on a plate with the head up, and pour Hollan- 
daise sauce over it. 

CAULIFLOWER BAKED, AU GRATIN. 

No. 423.— Cook the Cauliflowers as in No. 421. Drain off all the 
moisture and season them with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Then put 
them in a buttered baking dish, evenly formed, and pour over them 
a reduced cream or Allemande sauce, to which add some grated 
Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them and put 
a small piece of butter on top. Wipe the borders off clean, and 
then bake in an oven. 

CAULIFLOWER FRIED, VILLEROI. 

No. 424. — Cook the Cauliflowers the same as in No. 421. After 
you drain them, cut off the flowered heads in small bunches and dip 
them in Yilleroi sauce. Set them in a cool place, so the sauce will 
adhere to the Cauliflower. Then bread them with fresh bread 
crumbs. After this, dip them in beaten eggs and bread them again. 
Fry them in hot lard, until nicely browned, and serve them on a 
napkin, with fried parsley as a garniture. 

CAULIFLOWER FRIED IN BATTER. 

No. 425. — Cook the Cauliflowers as in No. 421. Then drain them 
and cut the flowered buds in small bunches. Pat them in an earthen 
bowl, season them with salt and pepper, and add a little vinegar, 
some finely chopped parsley and chives, and cover them to macerate 
for two hours. Then place them on a towel to absorb all the 
moisture, and afterwards dip them in a light batter and fry them in 
hot lard to a nice brown color. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 93 

CAUl IFLOWER, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 426.— Cut off the flowered buds of the Cauliflower in small 
bunches. Then boil them in water lightly salted, and when tender 
drain them. Then put them in a flat saucepan with a piece of 
butter, and toss them over a brisk fire, seasoning them with salt, 
pepper, and a little nutmeg. When thoroughly warmed, dish them 
up and pour over them some Anchovie butter sauce, in which add 
the juice of one lemon and a little parsley chopped fine. 

CAULIFLOWER FOE GARNITURE. 

No. 427. — Cut off the flowered buds, boil them, and when done 
drain them. If you wish a small garniture, cut them small. If for 
a large garniture, leave them in bunches. For a large garniture 
dress them in bunches around the dish with other vegetables, and 
mask them lightly with a white sauce. 

CAULIFLOWER PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 428. — Boil two heads of Cauliflower as in No. 421. Drain 
them and put them in a saucepan with four spoonfuls of Cream or 
Allemande sauce. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them 
well together, rub it through a fine sieve and put it in a flat sauce- 
pan. Red ace it with a glass of cream to its proper consistency, and 
before serving add a small piece of butter. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD. 

No. 429. — Boil two heads of Cauliflower in water lightly salted. 
When cold cut off the flowering buds, dividing them in small tufts. 
Put them in a salad bowl, season with salt and pepper, and pour 
over them a light Mayonnaise or cream dressing. Mix gently, so 
as not to break them, and garnish with beets and water cress. 

SOUP — CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER. 

No. 430. — Cook four heads of Cauliflower as in No. 421. When 
drained put them in a saucepan with two quarts of Cream sauce. 
Dilute it to its proper consistency with chicken or veal broth, and 
season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Rub it through a fine 
sieve, then put it back in the saucepan to keep warm, not letting it 
boil. Before serving add a piece of butter, stirring it in well 
until the butter is melted. Then add some chives chopped fine. 
Cauliflower soup should only be made when you have fresh plucked 
young Cauliflower. 



94 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



CAULIFLOWER SOUP PUREE. 



No. 431. — Cook four heads of Cauliflower as in No. 421, and 
when drained put them, in a saucepan with one gallon of thickened 
chicken or veal broth. Season it with salt and pepper, then rub 
it through a fine sieve and put it in a saucepan to boil for ten 
minutes. Before serving add one pint of cream diluted with the 
yolks of six raw eggs and a piece of butter. Add some small square 
pieces of breast of boiled chicken. 

CAULIFLOWER PICKLED. 

No. 432. — After you have picked and washed a number of Cauli- 
flowers, cvit off about three pounds of the flowered buds and arrange 
them in small bunches all of the same size. Pat them in a pan of 
cold water. Then put some lightly salted water in a saucepan, and 
when it boils add the Cauliflowers. Let them boil for six minutes, 
then drain them and put them in an earthen jar. Then pour hot 
boiling vinegar over them and keep the cover on the jar until the 
next day, Avhen you will drain off the vinegar. Then boil the vin- 
egar again, adding a little salt, and pour it hot over the Cauliflower 
in the jar. When cold cover them tight and set them in a cool 
place. If glass jars are used pour the vinegar in slowly at first, as 
the glass is liable to crack. 

CAULIFLOWER PRESERVED IN BRINE. 

No. 433. — After you have picked and washed the Cauliflowers cut 
ofl" the flowering buds in large bunches. Parboil them six minutes, 
then immerse them in cold water and afterwards drain them. Put 
them in earthen jars with a boiled salt brine of 18 degrees (sugar 
weight). Two days later drain off" the brine and boil it over again, 
adding salt to bring it to 18 degrees. Pour it over the Cauliflower 
and cover the jar tight. When ready to use soak them in cold 
water for five hours, boil in fresh water, and serve as needed. 



Article Xlvlll. 



French CELERIAC. OR TURNIP ROOTED CELERY. German 

Celeri Have. Knol Selleri. 

No. 434. — This variety has a brownish, irregular root, at the base 
of the leaves near the surface of the ground. It is much hardier 
than the common variety of celery. Those required for winter use 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 95- 

should be drawn, packed in sand, and stored in tlie cellar before 
severe weather sets in. It is used in the same manner as the 
common celery. Its root, or bulb, is the only part eaten. Its llesh 
is white and tender, having the flavor of the sialics of common 
celery, though less mild and delicate. The leaf -stalk is used most 
for flavoring soups, and the bulbs are stewed or used in salad the 
same as celery. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 435. — Sow it early in spring, in light, rich soil, and transplant 
it in May into beds, and water it freely in dry weather. When the 
plants are almost full grown, it is customary to earth up the bulbs 
to the height of four or five inches. In about a month they will be 
sufficiently blanched for use. The roots, which resemble turnips, 
will be ready in October, and may be preserved in sand during 
winter. It is a vegetable that is much esteemed for culinary pur- 
poses. 

LARGE ERFURT. 

No. 436. — This is a variety of Celeriac, having turnip-shaped, 
roots, which may be cooked and sliced, and used with vinegar, to 
make an excellent salad. It is more hardy, and may be used in tlie 
same manner as celery. 

APPLE-SHAPED. 

No. 437. — This is a great improvement over the old variety,, 
having small foliage, and large, round and smooth tubers. 

CELERIAC FRIED, VILLEROI. 

No. 438. — Pare and then wash six Celeriac roots in cold water 
and cut them in quarters. Take off the hard part, trim them 
in scallops, parboil them for 15 minutes, and drain them. Then 
put them in a flat sancepan liiied with slices of fat pork and moisten 
them with white broth. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a 
pinch of sugar. Then cover them with thin slices of fat pork, put 
them on the fire and let them cook slowly. When cooked take out 
the Celeriac and dry them on a napkin. Then strain the gravy in 
another saucepan and add four spoonfuls of AUemande sauce. Ee- 
duce it on a brisk fire and when cool dip the Celeriac in the sauce. 
Then arrange them in a pan and set them in a cool place, and when 
they are cold and the sauce adheres to the Celeriac, bread them m 
fresh bread crumbs. Then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them 
again. Fry them in hot lard and serve on a dish having a puree 
of Celeriac in the center. 



96 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY, 

CELERIAC PUREE FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 439. — Prepare tlie Celeriac the same as No. 438. When the 
Oeleriac is cooked strain and remove the gravy, then add four 
spoonfuls of Cream or AUemande sauce. Eub it all through a fine 
sieve and put it back in the saucepan. Then add a glass of cream 
to reduce it to its consistency. Before serving add a piece of butter 
and a few drops of meat glaze. 

CELERIAC STEWED, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 440. — Cut the Celeriac roots in scallops and prepare them 
the same way as Celery No. 463. 

CELERIAC STEWED, WITH ALLEMANDE OR CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 441. — Cut the Celeriac roots in scallops and prepare them 
the same way as Celery Nos. 464 and 465. 

THE USE OF CELERIAC TOPS. 

No. 442. — Oeleriac tops are used principally for garnishing fag- 
gots and for flavoring soups, etc. 

CELERIAC WITH GRAVY (hALF-GLAZE). 

Fo. 443. — When the Celeriac roots are peeled, cut them in quar- 
ters, then trim them all alike, and cook and serve them the same as 
Celery, No. 462. 

CELERIAC, FOR SOUPS. 

No. 444. — Prepare the same as those with common celery. Celeriac 
should always be added with the common celery in soups or purees, 
as it gives it a better flavor. The roots are also used for all of the 
other vegetable soups when celery is used in their combination. 

CELERIAC, PRESERVED. 

No. 445. — Peel and wash one dozen Celeriac roots and cut them 
in quarters. Trim them all the same size and parboil them for five 
minuies. Put two gallons of water in a saucepan, and when it boils 
put in it three spoonfuls of flour (diluted with a little cold water), 
the juice of three lemons and a little salt, and then add the 
Celeriac roots. When three-quarters cooked, take them off of the 
fire and let them cool. Then take out the Celeriac roots, dip them 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 97 

in lukewarm water, and arrange tlieni in quart tin cans. Cover 
them with cold-boiled water, lightly salted. Then solder on the 
covers and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. 

CELEEIAO PICKLED. 

No. 446. — Peel one dozen Celeriac roots, and cut them all of even 
size, not too thin. Parboil them in water lightly salted, until three 
quarters cooked. Then drain them and arrange them in an earthen 
jar. Then boil some wine vinegar and pour it over the Celeriac in 
the jar, while hot. Add a few grains of pepper and a few fennel leaves. 
Cover the jar and let it stand until the next day, when you will 
drain olf the vinegar and put the Celeriac in glass jars. Put 
in a bowl four spoonfuls of English mustard flour. Dilute it with 
vinegar, add some red pepper, and mix it well together, to have a 
light gravy. Pour it over the Celeriac roots, then cover the jar and 
put it away. 

CELEEIAO PKESERVED IN BRINE. 

No. 447. — Peel and wash two dozen Celeriac roots, and cut them 
in quarters. Parboil them until three-quarters cooked. Then 
immerse them in cold water, drain them, and dry them on a napkin. 
Put them in earthen jars and cover them with a strong boiled brine, 
when cold. Cover them and let them lay for two days, and then 
drain off the brine. Then boil the brine again, adding salt, to have 
it at about 16 or 18 degrees (sugar weight). When it is cold pour 
it over the Celeriac in the jars, put the covers on tight and put the 
jars in a cool place. "When you are ready to use them soak them 
in fresh water for a few hours, and prepare them as required. 



ArTTICLK XIvIV. 



French CELERY. Clermair 

Celeri. Selleri^ 

No. 448. — Celery is a hardy, umbelliferous biennial plant, and is 
always propagated from seed. The stems of the leaves are the parts 
of the plant that are used. These, after being blanched, are exceed- 
ingly crisp and tender, having an agreeable and peculiar aromatic 
flavor. They are prepared in various ways, but are generally served 
raw, for a relish, with salt or with oil, vinegar and mustard sauce. 
They are almost indispensable for salads. 
7 



ya HAEDEE S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 449. — Sow the seed in shallow boxes, or in a finely prepared 
bed out of doors, in straight rows, so that the small plants may be 
kept free from weeds. When about two inches high, thin them out 
and transplant them so they will stand two inches apart. When 
the J are about four inches high cut off the tops, which will cause 
them to grow stocky. The crop is usually an early one, and if good 
plants are used, they may be set out as late as the middle of August. 
The best results, however, are obtained by setting them out in the 
middle of June or the first of July. When setting them out, prepare 
broad, shallow trenches, about six inches deep and four feet apart, 
in which the plants should be set six inches apart. Cut off the 
outer leaves and press the soil firmly about the roots. In about six 
weeks the plants should be handled, which is done by having one 
man gather the leaves together while a second man draws the earth 
about the plant to one-third of its height, being careful that none 
of the earth falls between the leaves, as that would cause them to 
rust or rot. In a few days draw more earth around them, and repeat 
this process every few days until only the tops of the leaves are 
visible. In a few days more it will be fit for nse. Do not disturb 
the plants when the ground is wet, as that will injure them. 

At the approach of severe, freezing weather, take up the plants 
and put them in a light cellar or an unused frame, where the tem- 
perature can be kept above the freezing point. Set them out 
compactly, so that all but the tops of the leaves can be covered with 
sand. They will then gradually blanch, and may be used throughout 
the winter. 

DWAEE WHITE. 

No. 450. — A favorite market variety of close habit, being solid, 
crisp and tender. 

SANDEINGHAM DWAEF WHITE. 

No. 451. — An excellent variety, remarkable for its fine flavor and 
solidity. 

GIANT WHITE SOLID. 

No. 452. — This is of large size, solid and crisp. 

WHITE WALNUT. 

No. 453. — A dwarf habit seldom attaining a height of more than 
twenty inches. It is solid and heavy, having a rich walnut -like 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 99 

flavor. Its graceful and feather-like foliage, when blanched, makes 
it a most beautiful Celery for the table. 

HALF DWARF. 

No. 454. — A remarkablj^ fine white variety, intermediate in size 
between the Dwarf and Large White. When blanched it is of a 
yellowish white color, making it very ornamental for the table. It is 
entirely solid, possessing a rich nutty flavor. 

GOLDEN DWAEF, 

No. 455. — This is a distinct variety in size, but grows similar to 
the Half Dwarf, except that when blanched the heart, which is large, 
is of a waxy golden yellow color, which renders it most striking. It 
is entirely solid, has an excellent flavor and keeps well during 
winter. 

LONDON EED. 

No. 456. — The red Celery is generally superior to the white, being 
better flavored and more crisp. It is also hardier and keeps better 
in winter. The London Eed is one of the best varieties, having 
every requisite good quality. 

MAJOE CLAEK PINK. 

No. 457. — There is a disposition to grow red or pink Celery in 
preference to the white, which is as it should be, for as regards the 
flavor the red and pink are far superior to the white. The Major 
Clark Pink is a variety of medium growth of stiff, close habit, hav- 
ing a large heart, remarkably solid and crisp, and of a fine walnut 
flavor. 

hood's DWAEF EED. 

No. 458. — An excellent dwarf variety, solid and crisp. 

HOW TO PEEPAEE CELEEY FOE GENERAL USE. 

No. 459. — Trim off the green stems, then cut off the tops, leaving 
the yellow center leaves. Make two deep incisions in the bottom 
of the stalk, so as to be able to wash the Celery well in cold water. 

CELEEY PLAIN, FOE RELISHES. 

No. 460. — Trim the Celery, using only the tender hearts. Then 
put them in a basin, on ice, until ready for use, and then serve them 



100 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

in Celery glasses. Serve with a sauce made of Anchovie paste, 
diluted with warmed sweet oil, without letting it boil, or plain 
Anchovie butter. It can also be served after dinner, plain, with 
the cheese. 

DRESSED CELERY. 

No. 461. — Trim and wash the Celery in cold water, letting it lay 
on ice until ready for use. Then dry it on a napkin and cut it in 
thin sliced sticks, an inch and a half long. Season it with salt,, 
pepper, and a few spoonfuls of cream of mustard dressing. 

CELERY WITH GRAVY (HALF-GLAZE) . 

No. 462. — Clean and wash the celery and cut it in bunches, five 
or six inches in length from the root. Tie them to^^ether, single or 
double. Then parboil them for three minutes, immerse them in 
cold water and dry them on a napkin. Put some thin slices of fat 
pork in a saucepan and arrange the celery on it. Then season with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Moisten it with veal 
gravy or a light Espagnole sauce, and cover with thin slices of fat 
pork. Put the saucepan on the fire, let it boil, and then cook 
slowly until tender and nicely glazed. Then put the Celery in a 
dish, strain the gravy through a fine sieve, and skim off the grease. 
Then pour the gravy over the Celery and serve. 

CELERY STEWED, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 463. — Clean and wash the Celery and cut the white part in 
pieces of even size two inches long. Parboil them for three 
minutes, then immerse them in cold water and dry them on a nap- 
kin. Put the Celery in a flat saucepan, with a piece of butter, 
and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. 
Cover the saucepan and let the Celery simmer until the moisture is. 
reduced. Then cover it with white broth. Let it reduce on a brisk 
fire to a glaze, when the Celery must be cooked. Then add three 
spoonfuls of Tomato sauce and one of Espagnole sauce, and let it 
cook slowly for ten minutes. Add a small piece of butter, some 
parsley chopped fine, and toss it all well over a fire. Then serve 
with small toast of marrow around the dish as a garniture. 

CELERY STEWED WITH ALLEMANDE SAUCE. 

No. 464.— Prepare the Celerj^ the same as in No. 463, and when 
it is cooked to a glaze add four spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. 
When it is ready to serve add a email piece of butter, some finely 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 101 

chopped parsley and tlie juice of one lemon. Toss it well over the 
fire and serve with small pieces of toast as a garniture. 

CELEEY STEWED. WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 465. — Prepare the Celery the same as in No. 464, and add 
Cream sauce in place of AUemande sauce. Instead of lemon juice 
-add a few drops of meat glaze, and then serve. 

CELERY SAUCE. 

No. 466.— Cut the tender part of two heads of Celery in pieces 
one inch long, or smaller if desired. Put them in a saucepan with 
enough water to cover them and season with salt. Let them boil 
until tender and then drain off half of the water. Add a pint of 
boiling milk and when it all boils add four ounces of butter in 
which you will mix two spoonfuls of flour, stirring it gently until 
melted. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, letting it boil 10 or 
15 minutes. 

CELERY FRIED, VILLEEOI. 

No. 467. — When the Celery is trimmed and washed, cut the ten- 
der stems in pieces four inches long. Parboil them for five minutes, 
then immerse them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. Put 
them in a saucepan with some broth to cover them, and season with 
salt, pejDper and a little sugar. Let them cook slowly until tender, 
then take them out and drain off the moisture on a napkin. Then 
dip them in a cool Villeroi sauce, and place them on a pan in a 
cool place. When the sauce is firm trim them, roll them in fresh 
bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them 
again. Fry them in hot lard and serve them on a napkin, with 
fried parsley to garnish. 

CELERY WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. 

No. 468. — Prepare the Celery the same as in No. 464. Add to 
the AUemande sauce some fine grated Parmesan cheese. Put the 
Celery in a buttered baking dish or in shells. Sprinkle the top 
with bread crumbs and grated cheese, and add a small piece of but- 
ter on top. Wipe off the borders clean and put it in an oven to 
bake. 

CELERY FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 469. — Prepare the same as in Nos. 432, 468, 464, and 465, 
wdth but very little sauce. The Celery in No. 462 is used for large 



102 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

garnitures. As a garniture for salad borders use it as follows: 
Trim all of the green leaves from the bottom of a head of celery, 
and cut it in pieces two inches long. Then slice it thin and cut the 
broad stems an inch deep, without detaching them. Then lay them 
in cold water for an hour, and they will be nicely frizzled. That is, 
the little shreds will be curled. When using Celery for the 
center of a salad, take the heart of the Celery and slice it thin 
a few inches from the top, and lay the pieces in cold water for an 
hour, when it will be nicely frizzled. This makes an attractive 
garniture over the salad. 

CELERY PUREE, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 470. — Clean and trim six heads of Celery, cut the white parts 
in small pieces and parboil them for ten minutes. Then immerse 
them in cold water, drain them dry, and put the Celery in a 
saucepan with a piece of butter, and season it with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Add some white broth to cover it, 
then cover the saucepan and put it on a brisk fire to cook. When 
the moisture is reduced, and the Celery well cooked, add one pint 
of AUemande or Cream sauce. Rub it all through a fine sieve, then 
put it back in the saucepan and add a cup of cream to reduce it to 
its proper consistency, stirring it well with a wooden spoon. Add 
a small piece of butter before serving. 

CELERY, WITH WHITE OR BROWN SAUCE. 

No. 471. — When the Celery is cleaned, cut the tender parts in 
pieces half an inch long. Parboil them for five minutes, then im- 
merse them in cold water and drain them in a colander. Then put 
the Celery in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season it with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Then cover the sauce- 
pan and let the Celery simmer for ten minutes, not letting it get 
brown. Then moisten it with white broth, letting it reduce so as 
to glaze the Celery lightly. Then add Espagnole, AUemande or 
Cream sauce, as may be desired. 

CELERY SALAD. 

No. 472. — When the Celery is trimmed and washed, cut it in 
short, thick Juliennes. Season it with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, 
and add some chives, chopped fine. Mix it all well together, and 
when ready for use dress it in a salad bowl and garnish with sliced 
tomatoes or beets, cut in fancy shapes. 

Note. — T^'hen Celery is used in chicken or lobster salad, cut it in fine slices. It will preserve 
salad better than lettuce, when the salad is kept a length of time before using. 



THE PHISIOLOGY OF TASTE. 103 

CELEEY BROTH. 

No. 473. — Clean and wash four heads of Celery, then cut them in 
pieces three inches long. Put them in a saucepan with one gallon 
of water. Let it boil slowly until the broth is reduced to one quart, 
and then strain it through a napkin. Drink it warm or cold. This 
is a very good beverage for nervousness. 

CELERY SOUP PUREE, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 474. — Clean and wash six heads of Celery and trim off all of 
the green parts. Cut the tender parts in small pieces, one inch 
long, mixed with two celery roots sliced fine. Parboil them for five 
minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain and dry them. 
Then put the Celery in a saucepan, with a piece of butter, and season 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Cover the sauce- 
pan and let it simmer until the moisture is reduced. Then add two 
quarts of white broth and a faggot of parsley, garnished with leeks 
and green onions. Let it boil until the Celery is well cooked, and 
then add one gallon of thickened veal or chicken broth. Let it all 
boil slowly for twenty minutes, then take out the faggot and strain the 
soup through a fine sieve. Then put it back in the saucepan to 
keep warm. When ready to serve, add a pint of cream, diluted 
with the yolks of six raw eggs, four ounces of butter, and some 
parsley chopped fine. Mix this all well together off from the fire until 
the butter is melted. Add some small fried bread crumbs before 
serving. 

CELERY CREAM SOUP. 

No. 475. — Prepare the celery the same as in No. 474, and when 
it is thoroughly cooked in the broth add three quarts of Cream 
sauce. Rub it through a fine sieve and put it back in the saucepan 
to keep it warm. Before serving it, add half a pound of butter in 
small pieces, stirring it all well until the butter is thoroughly 
merged in the soup. Also add some chervil chopped fine. The 
soup must not be too thick. Farina or vermicelli, cooked in white 
broth, may be added. 

CELERY PUREE, PRESERVED. 

No. 476. — Clean and trim six heads of Celery, using only the 
white, tender part, and four Celery roots. Slice them all in small 
pieces and put them in a saucepan. Cover them with boiling water 
and add a piece of butter and a little salt. Cover the saucepan and 
let them cook until tender. Then rub the puree through a fine 



10-i HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

sieve and put it in pint tin cans. Solder on the covers and 
boil the cans in a hot water bath for one hour and a half. 
When it is to be used, finish it with Allemande or Cream sauce. 

PRESERVED CELERY. 

No. 477. — Prepare one dozen heads of Celery, cut them in pieces 
six inches long, and parboil them for five minutes. Immerse them 
in cold water, and then drain and dry them. Put them in a sauce- 
pan with one gallon of water. When it boils, add to it three 
spoonfuls of flour, diluted in cold water, and also add the juice of 
three lemons and a little salt. When it is half cooked take it off 
of the fire and let it get cold. Then take out the Celery, one 
piece at a time, and dip them in lukewarm water to clean them. 
Then arrange them in tin cans (same as asparagus), and pour 
over them some cold-boiled water, lightly salted. Add the juice 
of one lemou in each can. Solder on the cover, boil the cans in 
a hot water bath for two hours. 

CELERY PRESERVED IN BRINE. 

No. 478. — Prepare the Celery and then cut each head in pieces 
six inches long. Parboil them until they are three-quarters cooked, 
then immerse them in cold water, then drain and dry them on a 
napkin. Put them in an earthen jar and cover them with a brine 
at 18 or 20 degrees (sugar weight), when cold. Cover the jar, and 
in two days remove the brine and put on the fire to boil. Add more 
salt, to bring it to the same degree as before. When it is cold, 
pour it over the Celery to cover it well. Put the cover on the jar 
tight and set it in a cool place. When ready for use soak the 
Celery in fresh water for several hours, and prepare it as required. 

CELERY VINEGAR. 

No. 479. — Cut four heads of Celery in small pieces. Put them in 
an earthen jar with four ounces of Celery seed, one ounce of pulver- 
ized white sugar, and half an ounce of salt. Pour two quarts of 
boiled vinegar, when hot, over this. Cover the jar, and in two 
weeks strain it through a filter. Then put it in bottles and cork 
well. 

CELERY FLAVOR. 

No. 480. — Put two ounces of Celery seed in a quart bottle and fill it 
with brandy. Cork it tight and let it lay for two weeks, when it 
will be ready for use. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 105 



Article x:ivV. 



French CENTAURY. German 

Centaur e'e. Tausendguldenh-aut. 

No. 481. — This is a small annual herbaceous plant, which grows 
wild. It is about a foot high, having a branching stem which 
divides above into pairs, and bears oval, smooth pointed leaves, 
direct from the stem. The flowers are rose colored. The herb has 
no odor, but has a strong bitter taste, and its tonic properties are 
similar to those of gentian. It is used in cases of dyspepsia and 
fever. The roots make a valuable yellow dye. The flowers are 
gathered in bunches, hung in a dark, airy, warm room, and when 
thoroughly dried are kept in boxes, in a dry place. TlXiey are used 
in diet drinks (tisanes), see Article LXXXII. 



Articlk xlvi 



CHAMOMILE. 

Camomille. Ca7norinle. 

No. 432. — The single and double flowering Chamomile are propa- 
gated by slips, with a few of the small roots attached, both kinds 
being claimed as hardy perennials. In the Northern States the 
plants are frequently destroyed by severe frost. The single Chamo- 
mile, though considered more efflcacious for medicinal purposes, is 
not cultivated as much as the double flowering variety. They may 
be grown from leaves or slips. The leaves, when cut fine and 
burned, emit a peculiar, pungent odor. The flowers, which are the 
parts generally used, are in high repute, both in the popular and 
scientific materia medica, and give out their properties by infusion in 
either water or alcohol. The flowers are also used in the manufac- 
ture of bitter beer, and along with wormwood are used to a certain 
extent as a substitute for hops. It is considered a safe bitter and 
tonic, thoQgh strong infusions, when taken warm, act sometimes as 
an emetic. 

CULTURE. 

No. 483. — Chamomile flourishes best in light poor soil, and is 
generally propagated by dividing the roots and setting them in rows 
that are a foot apart with the plants ten inches from each other. 
They grow fast and soon entirely cover the ground. 



106 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Article XLVII 



French CHKRVIL. Germam 

Cerfeuil. Gartenkerbel. 

No. 484. — Chervil is an aromatic plant that is nsed for aroma- 
tizing certain dishes, bat should be used with moderation in soups 
and salads. 

CULTURE. 

No. 485. — Sow it thinly in May in drills half an inch deep and 
one foot apart. 

TUBEROUS ROOTED. 

No. 436. — Sow this variety in April and treat it the same as car- 
rots. 



ArticIvB xlviii. 



CHESTNUT. 

Chaiaigne. Kastanie. 

No. 487. — The Chestnut is the fruit of the chestnut tree. It 
contains a large proportion of sugary matter, and is eaten either 
green or roasted. It is used as a garniture with braized meats, and 
can be added to all kinds of forced meats and to stuffing for turkeys, 
capons, geese, and chickens. Confectioners use chestnuts to a large 
extent. They rarely keep through the season. All first-class 
grocers keep them in a preserved state. 

SOUP-PUREE OF CHESTNUTS, 

No. 488. — Eoast six dozen large chestnuts, and then put them in 
boiling water to peel ofi' the inner skin. Put them in the sauce- 
pan, with enough broth to cover them. Cover the pan and let 
them cook slowly until tender, and then rub them through a fine sieve. 
Put them back in the saucepan and add one gallon of thickened 
chicken or veal broth. Set it on the fire and stir it with a wooden 
spoon until it boils. Then add a glass of Madeira wine and season 
to taste. Set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for half an hour 
and then skim it well. Then strain it through a fine sieve, after 
which put it back in a saucepan to keep warm. When ready to 
serve it add a piece of butter and a garniture of asparagus tops. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 107 

SOUP-CREAM OF CHESTNUTS, HUNTEPv'S STYLE. 

No. 489. — Prepare the Chestnuts as in No. 488. Put them in a 
saucepan with a piece of butter and moisten with enough broth to 
cook them. Then rub them through a fine sieve. Put this puree 
in a saucepan with one gallon of thickened game broth. Mix it 
well, stirring it until it boils, and season it to taste. Let it boil 
slowly for twenty minutes and then take off the grease. Strain it 
into another saucepan through a fine sieve. When ready to serve 
put six ounces of butter and six ounces of puree of partridge (diluted 
with the yolks of six raw eggs, and a pint of cream), into another 
saucepan and then pour the puree in slowly while stirring it. Care 
must be taken not to let it boil or else it will curdle. 

SOUP GARBUEE WITH CHESTNUTS, POLIGNAC. 

No. 490. — Peel three dozen large Chestnuts, then pour over them 
some boiling water to peel otf the inner skin. Line the bottom of a 
saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, put on top of this three pounds 
of veal trimmings. Add three raw onions, in which stick six cloves, 
then add three carrots, a faggot of parsley garnished with celery, 
in which tie two bay leaves and a few grains of pepper. Lay the 
Chestnuts over this and cover the whole with thin slices of fat pork. 
Moisten this with good broth, to cover it, and let it simmer until 
well cooked. Then take out the Chestnuts and split each one in half. 
Then put in a deep taking dish a layer of thin slices of toasted bread, 
then a la}- er of the Chestnuts, and keep on alternating this way until 
the dish is full. Strain the broth that the Chestnuts were cooked 
in, and pour some over it and set it in an oven to gratinate. Serve 
with a soup tureen of good consomme. 

PUREE OF CHESTNUTS. 

No. 491. — Peel two pounds of Chestnuts, and pour over them 
some lightly salted boiling water, to peel off the inner skin. Then 
put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and toss them over 
the fire a few minutes. Then, moisten them with a glass of white 
wine and some broth. Cover the saucepan and let them cook luitil 
tender. Then take them all out and pound them through a colan- 
der, and rub them through a fine seive. Put the puree in a 
saucepan to keep warm, and before serving add a piece of butter 
and a soup-spoonful of meat glaze. This may be served as a garni- 
ture. When served as a vegetable, garnish the puree with sausages 
cJiipolata. 



103 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

GLAZED CHESTNUTS. 

No. 492. — Koast two pounds of Cliestimts; peel them and re- 
move the inner skin. Put them in a frying-pan with half a pint of 
water and two ounces of sugar. Let them boil until the moisture 
is reduced and the chestnuts are nicely glazed. Add the juice of a 
lemon, and toss them over well. Then roll them lightlj'- in pow- 
dered susiar. 



Article: xlix. 



FicMch CHICK PEA, OR EGYPTIAN PEA. Cernian 

Chiche. Chick. 

No. 493. — :The Chick Pea is a hardy annual plant, originally from 
the south of Europe. The stem is about three feet high, erect 
-and branching. The pods are about an inch long, three-quarters 
of an inch wide, and are somewhat rhomboidal in shape, being 
inflated or bladder-like, and containing three globular, wrinkled, 
pea-like seeds. The peas, though not very digestible, are employed 
for soup in purees, and are sometimes roasted and ground and mixed 
with the common variety of cotTee. 

CULTURE. 

No. 494. — Sow in April, in the same manner as garden peas. 
The drills should be three feet apart, and the seed sown an inch 
and a half deep. Keep the ground free from weeds, and harvest 
before the complete maturity of the seeds. 

RED CHICK PEA. 

No. 495. — This is a variety with red or brownish-red seeds. 

WHITE CHICK PEA. 

No. 496. — Similar to the common variety in size, but has white 
seeds. 

YELLOW CHICK PEA. 

No. 497 — This variety has yellow seeds, and is much used. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 109 



ARTICIvK Iv. 



French CHICKLING WITCH, OR SPANISH LENTIL. German 

Gesse. Gesse. 

No. 498. — This is principally cultivated for its seeds, the flour 
from which is mixed with wheat flour or rye, and made into bread. 
The seeds are irregularly shaped and of a dun or brownish color, 
having a pleasant flavor. They are sown at the same time and in 
the same manner as the taller kinds of garden peas. 



Article: LI- 



CHICCORY, OR SUCCORY. 

Chiccoree. C'igorien. 

No. 499. — Chiccory is extensively used by Germans as a substitute 
for coffee, and large quantities of the prepared root are annually 
exported to this country for a similar purpose. It is also prepared 
in this country now. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 500. — Chiccory is cultivated the same as carrots. In the fall 
the roots should be taken up and cut in small pieces and put where 
they will dry. Dr}" them the same as you would dry apples. When 
required for use it should be roasted and ground like coff'ee. 



Article LI I. 



CHINESE SPINACH. 

Amarante. Amaranth. 

No. 501. — This is a hardy annual plant, originally from China. 
The stems are three feet high, having many branches that are pro- 
lific with green leaves variegated with red. They are long and 
sharply pointed. The leaves are used in the same manner as spin- 
ach and resemble it in taste. Sow them in April in good garden 
soil, and they will yield abundantly during most of the summer. 



110 haedee's ameeican cookeey, 



ArTICIvK LI 1 1. 



French CHINESE YAM, OR POTATO. German 

Igname. Yam-ivurzel. 

No. 502. — This is a most valuable esculent, little known in tliis 
country. It grows rapidly and has creeping habits. The flowers, 
which are white and grow in clusters, have a cinnamon fragrance. 
The root is of a pale russet color, oblong, regularly rounded, and 
globe shaped, being largest at the lower end. The flesh is remark- 
ably white and very mucillaginous in its good state. When boiled 
or roasted they possess a rice-like taste. They are quite farina- 
ceous and nutritive, being much whiter and finer grained than our 
potatoes. 



Arxiclk LIV 



CHIVES, OR WELSH ONION. 

Cice ou Civette. Hohllauch, 

No. 503. — The Welsh Onion is a hardy perennial, said to have 
originated in Siberia. It is quite distinct from the common onion 
as it forms no bulbs, but produces numerous elongated, angular 
tunicated stems, not unlike scullions or the smaller variety of leeks. 
The young stems and leaves are used during winter and spring as 
salad. 

COMMON OR RED WELSH ONJON. 

No. 504. — The skin or pellicle is of a reddish -brown color, 
changing to a silvery white about the base of the leaves. The plant 
is about a foot high and is hardy and early. 

WHITE WELSH ONION. 

No. 505. — This is a sub-variety of the common red onion. The 
skin is rose-white and changes to silver-white at the upper portion 
of the stem. The leaves are longer, deeper in color, firmer and less 
liable to wither and deca}^ than the common variety. The upper 
part of the stem is considered better and more tender, and has a 
milder flavor than other varieties, though it is less productive. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. HI 



ARXICIvK lv. 



French COMMON CHIVES. tierman 

Cibouletie. Schnittlauch. 

No. 506. — The Chive is a hardy, bnlbous-rootecl perennial plant. 
The leaves, which are produced in tufts, are seven or eight inches 
long, erect and cylindrical in shape. Tlie young leaves are the parts 
of the plant used, and to keep them in a fresh and tender condition 
the plants should be frequently shorn to the ground. They possess 
the flavor peculiar to the onion family, and are principally used as 
an ingredient in soups and spring salads. For omelets the Chive is 
considered almost indispensable. (See omelet with herbs.) 

CULTURE. 

No. 507. — As the plant seldom, if ever, produces seeds, it is 
always propagated by a division of the roots or bulbs. The bulbs 
are planted in May, two or three together, in rows 15 inches apart, 
and covered three inches deep. They require little attention, and 
increase rapidly. If not cut to excess, a x^lant will continue for 
years. 



Article LVI 



CHUFA, OR EARTH NUT. 

Glun de terre. Erdnus. 

No. 508. — This is a perennial plant that originated in the south 
of Europe. The roots are long and fibrous, and produce at their 
extremities numerous oblong, jointed, pale brown tubers, about the 
size of a filbert. The flesh of the tubers is tender, having a yellowish 
color, and a pleasant, sweet, nut-like flavor. When the tubers are 
dried they taste somewhat like almonds, and keep a long time. 
When dried and pulverized, they impart to water the color and 
richness of milk. They are eaten raw or roasted. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 509. — They succeed w^ell in California. Plant the tubers in 
April, tW'O inches deep, in drills two feet apart. Thej^ will be ready 
for harvesting in October. 



112 HAKDEES AMEEICAN COOKERY. 



Article LVII 



CICELY SWEET, OR SWEET-SCENTED CHERVIL. 

French German 

Cer/euil odorant. Spanish Kerbel. 

No. 510, — This is a hardy perennial plant that is not cultivated 
to any extent. It is aromatic, but is seldom used for seasoning. 



ArticIvK LVII I 



CINNAMON. 

Cannelle. Zimmet. 

No. 511. — The tree which produces the Cinnamon is supposed to 
have come originally from the Island of Ceylon, and is called the 
Cinnamon tree, or Kerandee, by the natives there. The leaves are 
similar to the bay leaves, and have the same flavor as the tree. The 
Cinnamon is the second peeling of the tree and is thin and smooth. 
It is of a yellowish red color, and has an agreeable, sweet and 
piquant flavor. It is largely used by pastry cooks and- confection- 
ers and for various culinary purposes, both in sticks and ground. 
Cinnamon is also cultivated in Tonquin, but only in the King's 
domain. Cinnamon flavor mixes, and tastes better, with prepara- 
tions made with milk than any other flavor. 



Article: LIX. 



CLARY. 

Sdaree. Scharlei. 

No. 512. — The leaves of this plant are sometimes used for flavoring 
certain soups. They impart a strong peculiar flavor, agreeable 
to some but unpleasant to most persons. It has some of the 
properties of common sage, and is occasionally sold and used as a 
substitute for it. It is rarely cultivated. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 113 



ArXICIvK LX. 



Frencij CLAVARIA (a variety of Mushrooms). German 

Champignon. Champignon. 

No. 513. — There are several varieties of this fungus, all of which 
are edible and many are indigenous to our woods, being found in 
damp, shady places. For its preparation see Mushrooms. 



Article LXI. 



CLOVES. 

Gerofle. Nelhen. 

No. 514. — Cloves are principally used for culinary purposes, and 
also by confectioners and distillers. As their flavor is very strong 
they should always be used in moderation. In the Indies they 
make a jelly of the green fruit, which is exported in large quanti- 
ties to this country. It is highly esteemed there and very expen- 
sive here. 



ArTICIvK IvXII 



COCOA. 

Coco ou Cocoa. Cacao. 

No. 515. — Cocoa is the fruit of the Cocoa tree, which grows in 
abundance in South America. The tree is about the size of a 
chestnut tree, and produces ribbed pods, which contain from 25 to 
50 seeds, which resemble ground almonds, and are covered with a 
dry pelicule. They have a bitter taste. There are several different 
varieties, namely, those of Caracas, of Ceylon, of Berbiche, of Saint 
Madelaine, and of Saint Domingo islands. They all differ in size 
and flavor. The best are those from Caracas, being lightly flattened 
and resembling our broad beans. The next best are those from 
St. Madelaine and Berbiche. It is less flattened than the Caracas 
variety, and its pelicule is covered with a fine, ash-colored powder. 
The other varieties are much more bitter and oily, and are mostly 



Ill Hardee's American cookery. 

used to make the Cocoa Butter. The germ of the Cocoa is always 
at the thick end, while in our almonds it is at the small end. The 
Cocoa of Caracas, St. Madelaine and Berbiche, mixed in equal 
quantities, makes the best quality of chocolate. This mixture gives 
an unctuous, oleaginous matter whicli chocolate should always 
possess. If chocolate is made simply from the Caracas Cocoa it 
will be too dry, while that made from the others alone would be too 
oily and bitter. Hence, the combination mentioned is necessary. 
After the Caracas beans are picked they are buried in the ground 
for four or six weeks, which causes them to lose some of their 
bitter taste. Care must be taken or they will have an exceedingly 
moisty flavor. The Caracas Cocoa, mixed with the others, always 
makes the best chocolate. 

The cocoa, broma and chocolate we drink are made from Cocoa. 
When made into chocolate, it is ground into a paste and mixed with 
sugar, etc. There are several grades, some for eating, some for 
candies and creams, and some for beverages. Cocoa and broma are 
more healthful as a breakfast beverage than chocolate, as the latter 
is too rich. 

GROUND COCOA. 

No. 516. — Dilute two table-spoonfuls of ground Cocoa, with two 
spoonfuls of water. Then put it in a small saucepan and moisten it 
with three cupfuls of boiling milk or water. Stir it well and let it 
boil five minutes. Then sweeten it to taste. 

SHELL COCOA. 

No. 517. — Put two ounces of half-broken Cocoa in a saucepan 
with one quart of boiling water. Let it boil slowh^ for half an 
hour, or until half of the moisture is reduced. Add a little milk if 
desired and sweeten to taste. This is preferred by people whose 
stomachs are delicate. 

BROMA. 

No. 518. — This is made the same as Cocoa. 

CHOCA. 

No. 519. — Take a cup of chocolate, a cup of coffee and a cup of 
cream, and mix them well together. This makes a delicious bev- 
erage. 

PLAIN CHOCOLATE. 

No. 520. — Scrape o-r break two ounces of Chocolate in. small 
pieces. Put it in a saucepan with two table- spoonfuls of boiling 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 115 

water, stirring it until it is melted. Then add two cupfuls of hot 
boiled milk. Sweeten to taste. As soon as it commences to boil, 
take it otf of the fire and serve. 

POT CHOCOLATE. 

No. 521. — The best Chocolate is made in a pot expressly made 
for this purpose, in which there is a silver whisk. Put four cup- 
fuls of milk or water in a chocolate pot. (Or put one ounce of 
Chocolate to one cup of milk.) When the milk boils add the fine 
grated Chocolate. When the Chocolate is melted and well mixed, 
set it on the side of the fire for ten minutes to keep warm. Then 
take the whisk between the palms of both hands and make it revolve 
backwards and forwards briskly until the Chocolate is whipped to a 
froth. Then serve. 

CHOCOLATE, WITH EGGS OR CREAM. 

No. 522. — Grate four ounces of Chocolate, and put it in a saucepan 
with four soup-spoonfuls of boiling water, and stir it until it is 
melted. AVhile stirring it, add in slowly five cupfuls of boiling 
milk. Let it boil up once, then sweeten it to taste, and set it on 
the side of the fire to keep warm. Have ready the whites of four 
eggs, whipped to a stiff froth. Add half of this quantity to the 
Chocolate, mixing it well. Sweeten the remaining half of the eggs 
with powdered sugar. Serve the Chocolate in cups, with a spoonful 
of the sweetened egg froth on top. 

jSfoTE.— Chocolate can be made as above, with cream instead of eggs. Add the cream when the 
Chocolate is ready to serve, having it whipped to a froth and flavored with vanilla. 

Stir it well when you put it in, so the hot Chocolate will warm it, 
without letting it boil. 

Note.— Chocolate can be made with water or milk, or with both, mixed in equal quantities. This 
is merely a matter of taste, as some prefer it with water and others with milk or cream. When 
sweetened Chocolate is used, no sugar, or very little, should be added, as the delicate flavor is des- 
troyed when too sweet. Sweeten plain Chocolate to taste. Never keep Chocolate on the fire boiling. 

ADULTERATED CHOCOLATE. 

No. 523. — Chocolate is often adulterated by unprincipled manu- 
facturers, which makes it a most vile compound instead of the 
nutritious beverage intended. They use small, common Cocoa, first 
extracting the Cocoa butter, and then mis with the remaining Cocoa 
a quantity of grilled sweet almonds. They also use the refuse of 
coarse brown sugar in place of pure sugar, and as a substitute for 
vanilla they use common storax, which is the sawdust of the Tonqua 



116 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

tree; but persons experienced in Havor will detect the difference 
immediately. Impure Chocolate is also adulterated with butter, 
potato llour, starch, and other heterogeneous substances. 



Article lxiii 



Freucli COFFEE. t;erman 

Cafe. Kaffee. 

No. 524. — Coffee is produced on a small bushy tree. The flowers 
are odorous, and the fruit jelly-like, having two seeds. Coffee is 
said to have originated in Arabia, but is now cultivated in different 
parts of the world. The Arabian historian, Ahmet Effendi, wrote 
that Coffee was first used in Arabia in the fifteenth century. The 
Egyptians prepare a drink with Coffee which the Arabs call Kawa. 
Coffee was introduced in France by the Venetians in 1657, after 
which its use became universal. There are five principal varieties 
of Coffee. The Mocha is considered the best, and is divided in 
three classes — namely, the Baouri, which is the best and is hardly 
ever obtainable in this country, as it is reserved for the highest 
classes in Arabia and Turkey; the Saki and the Salabi. The Coffee 
from Martinique, Java, Eio and Guadaloupe, is considered next best 
in quality. The grades from Santa Domingo, Costa Rica, and all 
other kinds, are of inferior qu ility. Coffee is now in use all over 
the civilized world, and is largely adulterated with the chiccory 
root, especially when ground. For this reason Coffee should always 
be procured in beans and ground when required. It will keep its 
flavor better in this wa3^ Adulterated Coffee was first used in 1808, 
during the campaign of Napoleon. The dealers, seeing the large 
profit that could be made by combining chiccory with Coffee, 
adopted it, and even claimed that chiccory improved Coffee, which 
is not so. Most of the ground Coffee now prepared and sold by 
unscrupulous dealers is adulterated with chiccory, ground peas and 
common Coffee beans. Coffee beans are roasted in Coffee roasters 
that can be purchased from dealers. It is better to buy Coffee 
beans in their green state as their quality can then be better distin- 
guished than when roasted. The interior of the Coffee roaster is 
round, and the beans when being turned in the receptacle will roll 
over and over, and thus get evenly roasted on the surface of the hot 
roller. Commence to roast the Coffee over a slow fire, so it will be 
gradually and thoroughly browned, which will take place in about 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 117 

forty-five minutes. Wlieu it is browned take it out of tlie roaster 
and spread it on a blanket. It will then emit an agreeable odor. 
Turn it occasionally to cool itj and when cold put it in jars corked 
tight and grind it when needed. The Mocha Coffee has the best 
flavor, and is generally mixed with Java or Rio. This makes the 
best black Coftee. The Coffee from Martinique and Costa Rica, 
when mixed, is the best to use when milk is added. Coffee when 
ground is made by infusion. French and American coffee pots are 
so well known that no description of them is necessary. Either can 
be used. Coffee should always be made fresh, and care should be 
taken to have the water to the boiling point before it is poured over 
the (Joffee. Coffee should not remain long in tin pots, as it 
contains an ingredient that combines with tin or iron, and imparts a 
disagreeable flavor when it lays for any length of time. For this 
reason when large quantities are made at a time it should be kept in 
earthen jars. When Coffee is left over, after a meal, always put it 
in an earthen jar to use the following day. 

Coffee is now made as it was years ago. The Orientals do not 
strain it. They boil it with the sugar in and serve it in cups, sus- 
pended below a punctured shell, called fitzyanes. Coffee made and 
served in this manner does not excite the nerves as -when made in the 
French or American styles, but the latter modes are considered the 
best. When using a French coffee pot the boiling water has to 
drain through the ground Coffee and runs clear immediately. 
Hence it is unnecessary to clarify it. When it is boiled in a sauce- 
pan and clarified with eggs or other substances, it loses much of its 
strength and flavor. Some physicians advance the theory that 
Coffee is injurious to health, but this is a fallacy, when it is used in 
moderation. A certain gourmet of advanced years, yet in robust 
health, was in the habit of imbibing a cup of Coffee after every 
meal. One evening while at dinner in the Palace Hotel with his 
friend, a well-known physician, the latter remarked casually that 
Coffee was a slow poison, and urged the gourmet to discontinue its 
use. 

"Well," remarked the gourmet, with a sly twinkle in his eye, 
" I agree with you on that point, but I must say that it is terrible 
slow, for I have been using it continuously for the past seventy 
years, and am still alive and well." The doctor then subsided. 

REMARKS ON MIXING COFFEE. 

No. 525. — Coffee is easy to make, but must be made with care. 
The principal point is not to have your Coffee beans ground or 
roasted too long before using, and to always use good Coffee. To 
one pound of Mocha add two pounds of Java, or use one pound 



118 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of Moclia, one pound of Java, and one pound of Costa Rica or Kio. 
These mixtures make the best Coffee. Coffee is made best in the 
so-called French coffee pots, which are made for large or small 
quantities. When boiling Coffee, the aroma evaporates to a con- 
siderable extent, which does not occur in French c )ffee pots. 
Ground Coffee should never be boiled when it can be done other- 
wise. Always use boiled milk or warm cream with Coffee, as cold 
milk injures the taste of the Coffee. Black Coffee, or co.fe noir, 
is always taken after dinner, and should be made stronger than 
breakfast Coffee. It is served with brandy, kirschwasser or rum, 
which is put in the Coffee, or first burnt with sugar, as may be 
desired. It is called brulo. It facilitates digestion and excites the 
faculties of the mind. 

COFFEE FOR FAMILY USE. 

No. 526. — To make ordinary breakfast Coffee, use four ounces of 
ground Coffee to one quart of boiling water. When using the French 
coffee pot, put the Coffee in the upper vessel Avith the strainer over 
it. Pour a little of the boiling Avater over it slowly, and in five 
minutes pour over the rest of the water until it is all in the bottom. 
Keep the pot in a warm place, not letting the Coffee boil. Take 
about three cupfuls of the Coffee out of the bottom and strain it 
through the top again. Repeat this once more, as it makes the 
Coffee stronger and then it will be ready for use. 

When making Black Coffee for after dinner, use more Coffee or 
less water to make it strong. 

BOILED COFFEE, No. 1. 

No. 527. — 'When no French coffee pot is used, the Coffee must be 
boiled in a saucepan and strained through a double thickness of 
flannel. When making Coffee in large quantities in a saucepan, put 
five pounds of ground Coffee in a saucepan, two fresh raw eggs, and 
a cupful of cold water. Mix it all well together with a wooden 
spoon, and then pour in, slowly at first, five gallons of boiling 
water, stirring it at the same time. Then set it on a brisk fire, and 
as the Coffee rises to the top press it down with a spoon. Let it 
boil up once, and then set it on the side of the fire to keep warm, 
not letting it boil. Drop half a cupful of cold water over the top, 
in drops, and the Coffee will settle immediately. Do this, if in a 
hurry, otherwise it will settle naturally in five or ten minutes. 
Strain it all through a double thickness of flannel, and it is ready 
for use. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 119 

BOILED COFFEE, No 2. 

No. 528. — When using a boiler (in which there is a faucet three 
inches from the bottom, with a fine strainer inside ), and the Coffee 
is made as in No. 1, it need not be strained through flanneh Set 
it on the side of the fire to keep the Coffee warm, and put a piece 
of iron under the boil-r to keep it a distance away from tJie fire. 
Then sprinkle half a cupful of cold water over the top, put the 
cover oil tight, and in ten minutes run the Coffee out until it runs 
clear. Then 3^ou will pour it back in the boiler. After this it will 
all run perfectly clear if not allowed to boil. 

COFFEE, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 529. — Mix one quart of made Coffee and one quart of boiled 
milk, and boil them together. This will impart a pleasant flavor to 
the Coffee. 

ESSENCR OF COFFEE, FOE CREAMS. 

No. 530. — Mix half a pound of Mocha and half a pound of Java, 
and pour over it a pint of boiling water. Cover the saucepan tight 
and let it stand in a warm place for ten minutes. Then strain it 
through a French coffee pot, pouring it through the strainer twice 
again. When cold put the Coffee in bottles, and use it as needed. 

COFFEE ICE. 

• "No. 531.— Take a small cup of Coffee and put it in a tumbler with 
the same quantity of water and a lump of ice. Sweeten it a 
little. This makes a delightful, refreshing summer beverage, which 
will be greatly appreciated at a light luncheon. 



Article: LXIV. 



French COLT'S-FODT, COMMON. Cerman 

TussUage. HuflaUkh. 

No. 532. — This is a hardy, herbaceous perennial plant. The 
leaves are small, radical, roundish and heart-shaped, and from five to 
seven inches in diameter. The plants blossom in February or March, 
before the appearance of the leaves, and often while the ground is 
frozen and covered with snow. The leaves are the parts of the 



120 hakder's ameeican cookery. 

plant used, and are generally cut in July and September. In drying, 
spread them singly in an airy, shaded situation, but do not expose 
them to the sun. They are beneficial in cases of colds and pulmon- 
ary complaints. 

CULTURE. 

No. 533. — Colt's Foot thrives best in rich, moist soil. It may be 
propagated from seeds, but is generally cultivated by dividing its 
long, creeping roots. 



Article LXV. 



French CORIANDER. Cerman 

Coriandre. Korimnder. 

No. 534. — Coriander is a hardy, annual, aromatic plant, that is 
cultivated for its seeds, which have an agreeable taste, and are used 
by confectioners and distillers, and by druggists to disguise the 
taste of medicine. When young, the leaves are used the same as 
chervil. 

CULTURE. 

No. 535. — Sow them early in spring. When gathering them for 
the seeds, care should be taken not to bruise the stems or leaves, 
as when bruised they have a disagreeable odor, which is imparted 
to the seeds. They should be gathered on a dry day. 



Article LXVI 



CORN POPPY, OR COQUELICOT. 

Ccquelicot. Die Kornrose. 

No. 536. — This is a red flower, which grows wild in corn fields. 
The petals are separated and spread out to dry when they are 
gathered. Separate them if they adhere to each other. When well 
dried, put them in a dark, dry place. They are used for diet drinks 
(tisanes.) 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 121 



Article LXVII 



Frenclx CORN SALAD, OR LAMB LETTUCE, German 

Alache. Liimmersalat. 

No. 537. — This small salad is used during winter and spring as a 
substitute for lettuce. It is also prepared and cooked the same as 
spinach. The Corn Salad- that grows natural is better than that 
which is cultivated. It is used in salads, and when mixed with 
beets and celery it improves it as a breakfast salad. 



CULTUEE. 

No. 538. — Sow the seed during August or September, in shallow 
drills about one foot aJDart. If the soil is dry it should be pressed 
firmly over the seed in order to secure prompt germination. Cover 
them with straw upon the approach of severely cold weather. The 
plants will also do well if grown in spring, and, like most salad 
plants, are greatly improved if grown in very rich soil. The 
ground can scarcely be made too rich for them. In warm weather 
the plants will mature in from four to six weeks. 

COEN SALAD. 

No. 539. — Wash the Salad in plenty of cold water. Then drain 
it and put it on a salad dish and season it with salt, pepper, oil and 
vinegar. Parsley or chives, chopped fine, may bo added if desired. 

CORN SALAD, WITH BEETS. 

No. 540. — Prepare the Salad the same as in No. 539. Add some 
cold boiled sliced beets. Handle it carefully. This is a good 
breakfast Salad. 

CORN SALAD, WITH CELERY. 

No. 541. — Cut the celery in a small Julienne, and prepare as in 
No. 539. Endives or watercress can also be added. 



122 Hardee's ameeican cookeey. 



Article LXVIII. 



Frouc::! CORN, t.eriiian 

Ma%f>. Mais, or Korn. 

No. 542. — The garden variety of Corn for t ible use, is distinct 
from the field Corn variety. It is much relished in this 
country, especially so when used in its fresh state. When dried, it 
is cracked and ground into hominy, of which there are several 
kind-!, which are much used for breakfast, either boiled or fried. 
It is ground into meal (white and yellow), which is used for 
making bread and cakes. It is delicious when used as a mush with 
milk or cream. Corn starch is made from Corn, and is much 
used for custards, cream and various other pastry preparations. 
It is also a healthy nourishment for invalids and infants, and may 
be used for all preparations for which arrow root is used. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 543. — A rich, warm, alluvial soil is best, and before planting- 
it should be as deeply and thoroughly worked as possible. Culti- 
vate it deeply and thoroughly as soon as the plants appear, and 
then every few days until it tassels. Thorough cultivation and 
warm rich soil are the key notes to success. 



EAELY MAEBLEHEAD. 

No. 544. — This is the best and earliest sweet corn, and is of 
excellent quality. The stalks are short, having many suckers from 
the root. The ears are long, but of medium width, with only a few 
husks. The cob is red and the kernels are small, broad and shallow, 
of a white color, sometimes tinged with red. They must be cooked 
quicklv in boiling water, because the red cob will color the grain if 
it is allowed to simmer over a slow fire, or allowed to remain in the 
water after being cooked. 

DOLLY DUTTON. 

No. 545. — The stalks are very short, with but few suckers. The 
ears are small and straight and well covered with husks. This is 
the smallest kind in cultivation. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 123 

EXTEA EAELY ADAMS. 

No. 546. — Nearly as early as the Dolly Dutton, but inferior in qual- 
ity. Will succeed in the South where others fail. The stalks are 
very short, Avith no suckers. It bears a single, very full, round 
short ear. It is well covered with husks, and the kernels are white 
and smooth. 

EARLY MINNESOTA. 

No. 547. — This is later than tlie Adams best. An old and popu- 
lar variety. The stalks are short and not suckering. bearing one or 
two ears Avell covered with husks. Ears long, and pointed. Kernels 
very broad, sweet and tender. It does net shrink much in drying. 

EAELY EED NAEAGANSETT. 

No 518. — One of the bsstred varieties of sus-ar corn sTOwn. The 
kernels are much shriveled, and exceedingly sweet and tender. It 
is esteemed as one of the very best table varieties. 

CEOSBY'S EXTEA EAELY. 

No 549. — A most excellent variety, with ears of large size and 
medium length ; sweet, rich, and delicate. 

Russell's eaely peglific sugae. 

No 550. — This come ^ into use a few days after the Crosby, and is 
of excellent quality. It is very productive, and one of the best 
kinds for family use. 

early sweet sugar. 

No. 551. — The ears are of good size, tender, and sugary, The 
plant is productive, hearty, and quite early. 

MOOEE'S EAELY CONCOED SWEET. 

No. 552. — This has large, full ears. The quality is unexcep- 
tionable. It is valuable as an intermediate variety. 

BLACK MEXICAN. 

No. 553. — Although the rips grain is black or bluish-black, the 
corn, Avhenin condition for the table, cooks remarkably Avhite, and 
is surpassed by none in tenderness. 



124 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

EXCELSIOR. 

No, 554. — This is the best quality of the second early sorts, and 
the best for general crop. Stalks medium, bearing from three to 
six small curved ears, which are filled out to the end with broad, 
white kernels, that cook exceedingly sweet and tender. 

AMBER CREAM. 

No. 555. — The stalk is very vigorous. It is very productive, hav- 
ing large ears and long kernels. It is deep, rich, and sugary, 
varying in color from light red to white. 

TRIUMPH. 

No. 556. — The stalks are large, with large ears of fine quality. It 
is the earliest of the very large sorts and is highly esteemed for 
canning purposes. 

EGYPTIAN SWEET. 

No. 557. — A variety noted for its productiveness ; the stalks 
having from two to four ears each. It is peculiarly adapted for 
canning, and in consequence of its sweetness and tenderness, its 
superiority is noticeable. 

MAMMOTH SWEET. 

No. 558. — This variety produces the largest ears of any sort, a 
single ear weighing from two to three pounds. The quality is excel- 
lent, sweet, tender, and delicious. For family use it cannot be 
excelled. 

stowell's evergreen sweet. 

No. 559. — This variety is intermediate in its season, and if planted 
at the same time as the early kinds, will keep the table supplied 
until October. It is hardy and productive, very tender and sugary. 

BURLINGTON EARLY ADAMS. 

No. 560. — An excellent early field variety, and often used for the 
table, particularly in the South. Ears eight inches long, with 
twelve or fourteen rows. The kernels are white a,nd rounded, some- 
what deeper than broad, and indented at the outer end, which is 
whiter and less transparent than the inner. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 125 

EARLY CANADA. 

No. 561. — A very early, yellow variet}^ much grown in Canada, 
and good for localities where the seasons are short, or where first 
planting has failed. 

LACKAWAXEN. 

No. 562. — This i-i a white flint, eight-rowed variety, with very large 
and deep grains. There are usually two ears to a stalk. It completes 
its growth in ninety-five days, and is considered very prolific. 

EARLY WHITE FLINT. 

No. 563. — This is an excellent, productive variety, with ears of 
good size, pearly white, and of a beautiful appearance. Much used 
for making hominy. 

LARGE RED BLAZED, EIGHT-ROWED. 

No. 561. — An excellent variety for field culture, with large ears, 
well filled out at the top and end. Its color is yellow, splashed 
with red at the point. 

EARLY GOLDEN DENT. 

No. 565. — This is a variety as early as the flint sorts, and is highly 
recommended for general use. The stalks are of medium size, with 
very broad leaves. The ears are short and are always filled to the 
point. The cob is small, and the kernels are long and yellow. It 
makes a good meal. 

CHESTER COUNTY MAMMOTH. 

No. 566. — A large, late variety, very popular in Pennsylvania. A 
sure and hardy cropper, but will not mature well in the extreme 
Northern States. It is one of the best of the Dent varieties. The 
stalk is large, bearing one or two very large ears. Kernels narrow, 
very long, and deep yellow. Cob very small. 

blunt' S PROLIFIC. 

No. 567. — This is one of the most prolific varieties grown. The 
ears are short and well shaped, averaging three, and frequently 
running as high as eight to a stalk. The kernel is white, of the 
general form of the Dent variety, but harder, and makes an extra 
quality of pure, white meal. It is not early, and will not do well at 
the extreme North. 



126 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

RICE CORN, FOR PARCHING. 

No. 5S8. — This is a very liandsome variety, that is exceedingly 
prolific, and is used entirely for parching, being superior to all 
others for this purpose. The ears are short and the kernels are 
long, pointed and white, resembling rice in appearance. 

BOILED GREEN CORN. 

No. 569. — Take the husks off of the Corn, break off the stem, 
remove all the threads and the upper end. Put them to boil in 
boiling water, lightly salted, and let them boil until tender. Serve 
in a napkin with butter, separately. 

Note. — When the Corn is to be kept for some little time after it is cooked, it is always best to acid 
some boiled milk to the water. 

CORN, WITH MILK (M CREAM. 

No. 570. — "When the Corn is boiled as in No. 569, cut the Corn 
from the ear. put it into a saucepan, moistened with milk or cream, 
season with salt and pepper, and when the moisture is nearly re- 
duced, add a piece of butter, tossing it over well until the butter is 
melted. Then serve it. 

STEWED GREEN CORN. 

No. 571. — Cut the grains from six. ears of Corn, put them into a 
saucepan with a quart of boiling water and cook for twenty min- 
utes. Then drain off most of the water and add half a pint of milk. 
Season with salt and pepper and add an ounce of butter, with which 
mix a teaspoonful of flour. Stir the Corn until the butter is dis- 
solved, and let it simmer for fifteen minutes. 

CORN, WITH BEANS. 

No. 572. — When the Corn is boiled as in No. 569, cut it from the 
ears and add one -half or quarter of its quantity of string beans, cut 
in diamond shape, or green flageolet beans, cooked separately. 
Season with salt and pepper, moisten with a little milk or cream, 
and when thoroughly warmed add a piece of butter. 

SUCCOTASH. ^ 

No. 573. — Succotash is made with Corn and small Lima beans, 
using two parts of Corn to one part of beans. Cut the grain off' of 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 127 

one dozen ears of Ccirn, and shell the beans. Put them in a sauce- 
pan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, add a little salt and 
cook them until they are tender. Then drain off half of the moist- 
ure and add the same quantity of boiled milk. Knead a spoonful 
of flour in a piece of butter and add it with the milk. Let it all 
simmer for twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally, so that the 
mixture will not adhere to the bottom of the saucepan. Season it 
with salt and pepper. 

X3TE. — Green flageolet or string beans may be used instead of Lima beans, the string beans 
should be cut in pieces, one inch long. 

COEN, WITH TOMATOES. 

No. 574. — Cut the grains from one dozen ears of Corn and put 
them into a saucepan with an equal quantity of peeled tomatoes cut 
into square pieces. Let them cook until the tomatoes are well 
cooked and the moisture nearly reduced. Season them with salt 
and pepper, and before serving add a piece of butter. 

CORN PEITTEES. 

Fo. 575. — Cut the grains from six ears of Corn and put them into 
a saucepan, moistening them with a little cream, and season with 
salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Let it all simmer until reduced 
of its moisture, then set it oft' of the five to cool. Make a batter 
with two spoonfuls of flour, milk and eggs — -not too thin. Add it 
to the Corn, mixing it well. Have in a frying pan some hot lard. 
Then fill a soup-spoon with the Corn batter and drop it into the lard 
(not too much at a time). Fry them until nicely browned on both 
sides, drain them on a napkin and serve them with fried parsley to 
garnish. 

Note. — When using a batter like that used in Queen fritters, it will make the fritters more 
delicious. 

GREEN CORN CAKES. 

No. 576. — Grate the corn from one dozen ears and put it into a 
bowl, adding one pint of milk, four ounces of melted butter and six 
raw eggs. Mix the whole well together. Season to taste and add 
flour enough to make a light batter. Bake the same as you would 
buckwheat or Corn cake. 

CANNED CORN, HOW TO PREPARE. 

No. 577. — Canned corn may be had of all grocers the whole year 
round. Open the can, put the corn into a saucepan and moisten 



128 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY, 

it with milk or cream. Season with salt and pepper, and add a 
piece of butter, tossing it well over until the butter is melted. Serve 
hot. 

Note. — Any of the preparations given above for green corn, may also be made of canned corn. 

ROASTED CORN. 

No. 578. — Turn back the husk, pick out the silk threads, re-cover 
the ear with the husk, and roast it in the hot ashes of a wood fire. 
Serve it with butter, salt and pepper. An excellent and easy mode 
of cooking corn for campers. 

SOUP — CREAM OF CORN. 

No. 579. — Cut the grains from one dozen good-sized ears of corn. 
Put them into a saucepan to cook, with three pints of boiling 
water, one onion, a faggot of celery, and a leek. Season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. When the corn is cooked 
add two quarts of cream sauce. Let it simmer for fifteen minutes, 
then remove the onion and faggot, add a piece of butter, and serve 
hot. 

Note.— The soup, when prepared as above, may be rubbed through a fine sieve, then put back into 
a saucepan, to keep warm, and before serving add half a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of 
six raw eggs. Put into a soup tureen some fine chopped parsley or chives, and on this pour the 
soup. 

CORN CHOWDER. 

No. 580. — Cut one pound of fat pork in small pieces, and put them 
in a saucepan. When they are nicely fried remove the pieces and 
put four finely sliced onions in the hot fat. When they are fried, 
add one gallon of hot water, letting it boil until the onions are 
thoroughly cooked, when you will rub it through a fine sieve. Then 
peel one dozen potatoes, slice them fine, and cut the same quantity 
of green corn from the cob. Put them in a saucepan, in layers, 
sprinkle each layer lightly with flour, and season with salt and 
pepper. Then pour the above strained broth over the layers, cover 
the saucepan and set on the fire to boil for thirty minutes. By this 
time the corn and potatoes should be cooked. Then add one 
quart of boiled milk, a piece of butter and some crackers, split in 
half and soaked in cold water. Put the cover on the saucepan and 
cook the chowder ten minutes longer. 

HULLED CORN. 

No. 581. — Hulled corn can be procured from dealers, and is best 
during the fall and winter. Its attractiveness lays in its snowy white- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. ■ 129 

uess. Put the quantity desired into a saucepan, witli milk to corer, 
set it on the fire and season it lightly, with salt only. Let it simmer 
slowly. Care must be taken not to let it scorch, and when it is 
cooked add a good sized piece of butter. Serve separately Avith a 
pitcher of cream and a bowl of sugar. 

BOILED COAESE HOMINY. 

No. 582. — Soak the Hominy in cold water over night, and in the 
morning drain off the water and put the Hominy into a saucepan 
with fresh water. Let it cook slowly, and occasionally stir it with 
a wooden spoon. Season it with salt, and when cooked drain it in 
a colander. Then put it back into the saucepan and season it with 
salt and white pepper, and add a good sized piece of butter. Then 
stir the Hominy with a wooden spoon until the butter is melted, and 
moisten it with a little hot milk or cream. 

Note.— This Hominy may be served as a dinner vegetable, or with cream and sugar. 

FINE HOMINY. 

No. 583. — Fine Hominy is mostly used for breakfast and luncheon, 
and a pot of cream ought always to be served with it. 

Soak two pounds of Hominy over night, and when it is ready to 
cook, have in a saucepan six quarts of boiling water, lightly salted, 
into which put the Hominy slowly, while stirring it with a wooden 
spoon. Let it boil slowly, occasionally stirring it from the bottom, 
until it is well cooked, and when cooked it should be similar to 
mush. If found too thick, add a little more hot water or milk, and 
serve with butter, cream and sugar. 

FRIED HOMINY. 

No. 584. — Cook the Hominy as in No. 583, only have it thicker. 
When it is well cooked put it into square, buttered pans, about two 
inches thick, and set it aside to get cold. When cold, cut the 
Hominy in slices and dip them into beaten eggs, diluted with a little 
milk. Then fiour them and fry them in clarified butter. It is 
occasionally served with roast wild ducks. 

HOMINY CEOQUETTES, 

No. 585. — Put into a saucepan one pound of hot boiled Homin3^ 

Stir it off the fire until nearly cold, and be very careful to have no 

lumps. Add a piece of butter, sweeten to taste, and add the yolks 

of four raw eggs. Have the whole well mixed, then roll them on 

9 



130 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the table into croquettes, then dip into beaten eggs and then into 
fresh bread crumbs. Shape them nicely and fry in hot lard. 

BAKED HOMINY. 

No. 586. — Put into a saucepan one pound of hot-boiled Hominy,, 
stirring it until nearly cold. Then add two ounces of butter and 
the yolks of six raw eggs. When the whole is well mixed, add in 
slowly half a pint of cold milk and sweeten it to taste. Then beat 
the whites of four eggs into a stiff froth, and mix the froth gently 
into the Hominy. Then put it into deep, buttered dishes, and bake 
gently until nicely browned. 

CORN MEAL. 

No. 587. — Corn Meal is finely ground corn, it is also called Indian 
Meal. There are two kinds of Corn Meal, the white and the yelloAV. 
The best variety of white Corn Meal is made from Blunt' s prolific 
corn, and the best variety of the yellow is made from the Golden 
Dent variety. Mush is generally made from the latter kind. Corn 
Meal is also used for making a great variety of bread and cakes, 
which will be fully described in the Book on Pastry. It is also 
vised for making gruels, soups, etc., for infants and invalids, as it 
is considered very nutritious and healthful. 

BOILED MUSH. 

No. 588. — Have in a saucepan four quarts of boiling water. 
Season it with a spoonful of salt. Pour into the water slowly three 
pounds of the Corn Meal, stirring it slowly with a wooden spoon 
until it thickens. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly, 
occasionally stirring it well up until it is well cooked. When, 
cooked, serve it with fresh butter, cream or milk. 

Note.— This can be made of yellow or white Meal; the yellow is, however, generally preferred. 

FRIED MUSH. 

No. 589. — Prepare a Mush as. in No. 588, and when it is cooked 
add a piece of butter and mix it well. Then pour the Mush into a 
buttered, square pan, about two inches thick. Cover this with a 
buttered paper, so as to prevent the Mush from having a crust, and 
when cold cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Then dip 
the slices into beaten eggs, and after flouring them, fry them in 
clarified butter. Drain, and serve them on a napkin. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 131 

GOEN MEAL GRUEL. 

No, 590. — Have in a saucepan two quarts of boiling water, and 
while the water boils drop into it lialf a pound of Corn Meal, 
stirring it with a wooden spoon until it boils steadily. Then set it 
on the side of the fire to boil slowly for one liour. Season it with a 
little salt. A little wheat flour may be added, while cooking, and 
it may also be sweetened with a pinch of sugar and a little nutmeg. 
This may be served as it is, or may be strained and may be cooked 
with milk or broth. 

POULAINTA, OE COEN MEAL WITH CHEESE. 

No. 591. — Poulainta is an Italian preparation, which is nourishing 
and healthful, and is used by the Italians as we use corn meal mush. 
Put two quarts of water in a saucepan, and when it boils add salt 
and a piece of butter. Then put the Corn Meal in slowly, stirring- 
it all the time (so it will not get lumpy), until it commences to 
thicken. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly, stirring 
it up from the bottom occasionally. When it is cooked add half a 
pound of grated Parmesan cheese, and a piece of butter, mix it well 
together. Serve in a large dish, with a beef gravy reduced with 
Tomato sauce and flavored with the essence of dry mushrooms. 
Serve a tureen of consomme with it. 

POULAINTA, WITH GAME. 

No. 592. — Prepare the Poulainta as in No. 591, and when it is 
cooked put it on a large dish, making a hollow space in the center. 
(Prepare, separately, two dozen reed birds.) Put the birds in a 
frying-pan with a piece of butter, toss them over the fire, and when 
nearly cooked add some fine herbs, and then cook them thoroughly. 
Put the birds in the center of the Poulainta. Put a few spoonfuls of 
gravy in the pan, let it boil up once, and then pour it over the birds. 

CRUSTS OF POULAINTA, MILANAISE STYLE. 

No. 593. — Cook one pound of yellow Corn Meal in six pints of 
water, the same as in No. 591. Keep it stiff, and when cooked add 
six ounces of butter and four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix 
it all well and put it in a buttered tin pan, about two inches deep. 
When it is cold, turn the mush out of the pan and cut it with a 
round cutter into pieces, about the size of a dollar in circum- 
ference. With a smaller cutter make an impression on the 
top of each piece, and then fry them in hot lard. When nicely 



132 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

colored drain tliem. Then take the cover otf of each, and hollow 
out the center, not breaking the crust, and set them in the oven 
to dry. 

Put the yolks of five raw eggs in a saucepan, dilute them with half a 
pint of cream. Add one-quarter of a pound of Gruyere or Ametican 
cheese, cut in small, thin pieces, and a pinch of nutmeg. Set it on 
the fire and stir it with a small whisk until the cheese is melted. 
Then add one-quarter of a pound of grated cheese, and keep stirring 
it until melted. Do not let it boil. Fill the crusts with the prepara- 
tion and serve them hot. 

Note.— For other (Poulaintas) Corn Meal Farina see Article Farina. 

CORN GRIDDLE CAKES— COMMON CORN CAKES. 

No. 594. — Put into a bowl one quart of sour or buttermilk, one 
tablespoonful of soda, a little salt, and add enough flour to make a 
nice batter. Bake immediately. 

BATTER CAKES. 

N.o. 595. — To one quart of milk add enough white Corn Meal, with 
one handful of wheat flour, to make a light batter. Put with this 
four spoonfuls of yeast and a little salt, and when it is all well mixed 
gather it together and cover it with a cloth, so as to let it raise over 
nieiit. In the morning add one ounce of melted butter and a tea- 
spoonful of soda, dissolved in hot water. Mix well together and 
then bake. 

FLANNEL CAKES. 

No. 596. — To one quart of milk add enough Corn Meal to make a 
light batter. Put with this four spoonfuls of yeast and a little salt. 
When it is well mixed cover it Avith a cloth to raise it over night. 
In the morning add an ounce of melted butter and four well beaten 
eggs. Mix them well together and then bake. 

FLAP JACKS, OR TRIMMED LACE. 

No. 597. — Put into a bowl one pound of Corn flour. Make a 
hollow in the center and add one ounce of melted butter and two 
spoonfuls of molasses or brown sugar. With this put one quart of 
hot milk, mix it together, and cover it with a cloth and let it stand 
in a warm temperature overnight. In the morning add the yolks of 
four raw eggs, four ounces of wheat flour and a little salt. Mix 
them well up, and if the batter should be too thick add a little cold 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 133 

milk. Then add in, gently, tlae whites of the eggs (beaten to a stifit' 
froth), and bake. 

CORN STARCH. 

No. 598. — Corn Starch is the fecula of Corn, and is used for all 
the purposes for which arrow root is used in cooking. It is also 
much preferable to arrow root for alimentary purposes. It is used 
in creams, custards, blanc mange, and a numberless variety of cakes 
and fritters. It is also delicious for thickening certain soups and 
sauces, instead of flour, as it keeps them clear and transparent. 
Though many preparations made with Corn Starch are not as succu- 
lent as when made in their original styles, especially will this be 
found to be the case with creams, blanc mange, etc. It often 
happens that when articles are made of Corn Starch which are too 
stiff, or which are not well cooked, they retain a starchy taste. It 
is very nutritious for infants and invalids, when boiled in milk or 
made into custards. The recipes will be found in their respective 
places in the Books on Soups, Sauces and Pastries. 



Article LXIX, 



FreEc!» COUCH GRASS. German 

Chiendent. Queckengrass. 

No. 599. — Couch Grass is a medicinal plant, of which there are 
several varieties. The root is the portion of the plant used in 
tisanes (diet drinks) and other decoctions. 

Culture same as other pot herbs. See Article Y. 



Article LXX. 



cos LETTUCE, OR ROMAINE. 

Romaine. Bind SalcU, or Fi^rellen Salat. 

No. 600. — The Romaine, or Cos L 'ttuce, of which there are sev- 
eral varieties, is one of the most crisp and refreshing salads grown. 
(See article on Lettuce.) Its leaves are long, narrow and of a dark 



134 hakdee's ameeican cookeey. 

green color. It stands tlie heat well, and should be tied up to 
blanch a week or ten days before cutting. It is used as a salad the 
same as ordinary lettuce, and is also boiled and prepared in the 
same way as spinach. It is braised and stuffed the same as lettuce. 



Article LXXI. 



FrcncH COSTMARY, OR ALECOST. Gcrumn 

Tanaisie Barhocline. Frauenmu>,ze. 

No. 601. — Costmary is a hardy perennial plant with a creeping 
root, and an erect, branching stem from two to three feet in height. 
The radical leaves, wdiich are produced on long footstalks, are oval, 
serrated and of a grayish color. Th-se of the stalks are smaller 
than the radical ones but similar in form. The .plant has a soft, 
agreeable odor, and is sometimes used as a pot herb for flavoring 
soups. The leaves are used in salads and also for flavoring ale or 
beer. 



CULTUEE. 



No. 602. — Costmary may be cultivated in almost any soil. It is 
generally propagated by dividing the roots, which increase rapidly. 
It should be planted in spring or autumn. Set them two feet apart 
in each direction. 



Article 



CRANBERRY. 

Canneberge. Moosbeere. 

No. 603. — The Cranberry is a trailing shrub, which grows wild 
in swampy meadows and on the borders of inland lakes. It can be 
improved, however, by planting in any moist soil that is thoroughly 
manured with decayed manure. When cultivated in this way the 
berries will be larger and of better flavor, and the yield will be 
more abundant. The berries are round, of a reddish color, and 
have an aciduous flavor. There are several varieties. The bell- 
shaped is the largest, having a dark-red color. The cherry variety 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 135 

•comes both large and small, the large kind being preferred. The 
color is dark-red, and it is considered next in excellence to the 
bell-shaped. The oval or egg-shaped Cranberry comes large and 
small also. It is a good variety, but not as profitable as the others. 

CULTURE. 

No. 604. — Procure the plants with their natural earth and plant 
them earl}- in spring, four feet apart, in moist sandy soil, well 
manured. 

CEANBEEEY SAUCE. 

No. 605. — Pick oiie pound of Cranberries and wash them in cold 
■water. Put them in a copper basin with a glassful of water and 
cook them over a brisk fire. Sweeten with sugar stirred in with a 
wooden spoon until they are like a marmalade. Then strain them 
through a fine sieve and put them in an earthen jar. The sauce is 
used with turkey and for tarts and pies. If Cranberries are cooked 
in tin basins they will not keep their rich red color. 



A.RTiCIvE; LXXIII 



JFrench CRESS, OR PEPPER GRASS. German 

Cress m. Pillenfarn. 

No. 606. — Cress, or Pepper Grass, is a pungent salad, and is 
mostly used in mixing with other salads. Mixed with fine herbs it 
has a piquant, agreeable taste, and it should always be used when 
young and freshly plucked. It gives a most agree ible taste to all 
green salads. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 607. — The seed should be sown in drills about eighteen inches 
apart on very rich ground, and the plants Avell cultivated. Keep off 
insects bs' dusting with Pyrethrum powder. It may be planted 
A^ery earl}^ Continue sowing every week, as it matures very 
rapidly and runs to seed. 

The fine curled Cress is very superior, and will bear cutting sev- 
eral times. The Perennial American resembles the water Cress, 
and may be cut several times. 

The Garden Broad Leaved has a mild flavor and is generally used 
in soups. 



136 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Article LXXIV. 



French GARDEN CRESS. German 

Cressun alenois de>< jardins. Kresse. 

No. 608. — This is one of the best pkints in cultivation for herbs, 
and can be easily raised in pots or boxes. It runs quickly into 
seed and withers as soon as plucked^ so for this reason it is rarely 
found in the markets. It is an excellent ingredient for salads, hav- 
ing a mild, piquant taste. The leaves should never be chopped, 
but are plucked or served in bunches. The leaves when laid 
between buttered sandwiches and eaten with eggs, make a relish 
highly esteemed by epicures. 



Article LXXV. 



WATER CRESS. 

Cresson de Funtaine. Brunnen- Kresse. 

No. 609. — The Water Cress is a hardy, perennial, aquatic plant, 
growing abundantly along the margins of running streams, ditches 
and ponds. It is very easily introduced by planting it along the 
margins of ponds and streams where it does not already grow, and 
will increase both by the spreading of the roots and seeding. 

It has a particularly pleasant, pungent taste, and is agreeable to 
nearly every one. It is also one of the most delicious small salads. 

CULTURE. 

No. 610. — The seeds should be sown and lightly covered in grav- 
elly, murky lands, along the border of small, rapid streams. They 
will need no subsequent culture, as in favorable conditions they 
increase very rapidly by self-sowing of seed and extension of roots. 
Good beds should be fenced in to keep animals from trampling on 
them, and should also be kept clear of wild herbs. 

ITS USE. 

No. 611. — It is eaten as a morning salad, and should only be used 
when fresh. It should be washed well in cold water and then 
drained. (Care must be taken not to bruise or press it.) Then 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 137 

add a little vinegar, salt and pepper. It is also mixed with other 
green salads, and is largely used for garnishing roast chickeas, 
steaks, etc. It can also be cooked and prepared the same as 
spinach. 



Article 



FreKcH CUCUMBER. German 

Cuncombre, Gurke. 

No. 612. — There are many varieties of Cucnmbers. They are 
eaten raw and are also cooked in various ways. When used in salads 
they should be sliced very fine and sprinkled with salt to drain them 
of the water, otherwise they are apt to cause indigestion. It is a 
vegetable that can be grown to perfection by any one who controls 
a few square yards of soil which is fully exposed to the sun — the 
fruit being so very much better when gathered from the vine than 
when procured in the market. Rome varieties are used for cooking- 
purposes and some for pickling, and are then called pickles, or 
gherkins. 

CULTURE. 

No. 613. — The plants are tender, and planting should be delayed 
until settled warm weather or ample facilities are provided to pro- 
tect them from frost and during cold storms. Form low, flat hills, 
six feet apart each way, of rich soil, by mixing in a quantity of 
thoroughly decomposed manure, stirring the soil to a depth of 
sixteen inches or more. Scatter one seed every inch along the rows, 
and cover them one inch deep, pressing the soil over them. As 
soon as the plants are up they will be liable to attack by the striped 
cucumber beetle. These may be kept off by frequent dusting with 
air-slacked lime. Care should be taken not to use too much lime, 
for if too strong it will kill the vines. When the plants are well 
established, thin to three plants to each hill. In gathering, pick 
all the fruit before it begins to ripen, as the vines will cease setting 
fruit as soon as any seed commences to mature. In gathering for 
pickles cut the stem instead of pulling the fruit off, and be careful 
not to mar the fruit in any way, for if the skin is broken the pickles 
will not keep. 

EARLY WHITE SPINE. 

No. 614. — A favorite market variety, of medium size, with deep 
green flesh, crisp and of fine flavor. 



133 haedek's ameeican cookeey. 

extea laege white spine. 

No. 615. — This is a larger variet}^ of dark-green color, largely 
xisecl for forcing. 

BOSTON PICKLING. 

No. 616. — A variety largely used, very productive, and of superior 
quality. 

EAELY EEAME. 

No. 617. — An old and popular variety of medium size, straight 
and handsome, and excellent for pickling when young. 

EAELY CLITSTEE. 

No. 618. — A much esteemed early sort, growing in clusters and 
extremely productive. 

GEEEN PROLIFIC. 

No. 619. — This is one of the best for pickling. Its characteristics 
are its very uniform growth (hardly ever yielding Cucumbers too 
large for pickling) and its immense productiveness. 

EARLY RUSSIAN. 

No. 620. — This is the earliest variety of fruit produced, and is 
■small, hardy and productive. 

LONG GEEEN. 

.Vo. 621. — A fine long fruit of excellent quality, of a dark-green 
color, firm and crisp. 

Talby's Hybrid, the Long Green Turkey, and the Short Green, 
are considered excellent varieties for family use. 

ENGLISH FEAME OE FORCING VAEIETIES. 

No. 622. — These are almost exclusively raised for self-gratification, 
and are grown in hot-houses. Sow them in small pots in January, 
February or March, in a hot-bed or hot-house, and when grown to 
three leaves plant them out in previously prepared hills of loose 
rich soil in the center of fhe sash. Keep a temperature of sixty- 
five degrees at night, to seventy or eighty degrees with sun heat. 
When grown under glass artificial impregnation of the floAvers is 
necessary, by the usual method of using a camel's-hair pencil, or if 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 139 

not a liive of bees should be kept, if Cucumbers are grown on a 
large scale in green-liouses. When grown in the open air there is 
no need df this, as the insects and winds effect impregnation. The 
following selections include some of the leading English varieties: 

Berkshire Champion, Duke of Edinburgh, 

Blue Gown, Cuthill's Black Spine, 

Carter's Champion, Invincible, 

Improved Lion House, Master's Prolific, 

Dale's Conqueror, Long Green, 

Telegraph, Prince Albert. 

Marquis of Lome, Monroe's Eabley, 

Lord Kenyon's Favorite, Walker's Eumblers. 

CUCUMBEKS, WITH CUE AM SAUCE. 

No. G23. — Pare half a dozen Cucumbers, slice them in half and 
scoop out the seeds. Then cut them in scallops, all the same size, 
and put them into a bowl with cold water, a little salt and some 
vinegar. Half an hour after this drain off the water and dry them 
on a napkin. Then put them into a Hat saucepan with a piece of 
butter, and season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of 
sugar. Cover the saucepan and set it on a moderate fire. Let them 
cook slowlj' until they are tender, then drain off the butter and add 
four spoonfuls of Cream sauce. Toss the whole together gently, 
and dish them up with a little line chopped parsley over them. 

CUCUMBERS, POULETTE. 

No. 624. — Prepare the Cucumbers the same way as in No. 623, but 
instead of Cream sauce add Allemande sauce. Before serving, add 
the juice of half a lemon. Dish them up niceh', and have pieces 
of bread cut into fancy shapes fried, then glaze them to garnish 
around the dish. 

CUCUMBEES, DUCHESSE. 

No. 625. — Pare half a dozen Cucumbers, then cut them into 
quarters and scoop out the seed. Parboil them for two minutes in 
water lightly salted, to which add a little vinegar. Then immerse 
them in cold water and dry them on a towel, after which, put them 
in a flat saucepan with a little clarified butter. Season them with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar, and put them on a brisk 
fire and fry them lightly on both sides (not letting the butter get 
browned). Then take them out with a sm ill skimmer, without 
breaking them, and dish them up. Prepare separately a reduced 



140 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

Supreme sauce, in which add two spoonfuls of grated Parmesan 
cheese, and pour it over the cucumbers. Then serve. 

CUCUMBERS, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 626. — Pare half a dozen Cucumbers. Slice them in halves 
and scoop out the seeds. Then cut the Cucumbers in scollops and 
parboil them for two minutes. Then immerse them in cold water. 
Dry them on a napkin and put them into a buttered flat saucepan, 
and season them with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Then put 
on the lid and let them simmer until the moisture is reduced; after 
which add two spoonfuls of veal gravy and one of Espagnole 
sauce. Let them cook until tender, then dish them up, straining 
the gravy through a fine sieve into another saucepan. Reduce it to 
its proper consistency. Then take it off of the, fire, and add a piece 
of butter and some fine chopped parsley, while stirring it until the 
butter is melted. Then pour it over the Cucumbers, and serve. 

STUFFED CUCUMBEES, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 627. — Pare one dozen Cucumbers, slice them in halves, scoop 
out the seeds, and parboil the Cucumbers for two minutes. Immerse 
them in cold water and drain them on a napkin. Stuff them Avith a 
forced meat, made of the breasts of chickens, into wdiich add some 
cooked fine herbs. Arrange the Cucumbers in neat order in a deep, 
flat saucepan, lined with thin slices of fat pork. Then moisten them 
with a clear Espagnole sauce or veal gravy, and cover each Cucum- 
ber with a thin slice of fat pork. Put the lid on the saucepan and 
set it into the oven to cook, basting them occasionally. When they 
are nicely glazed, dish them up and serve them with a reduced 
Madeira wine sauce. 

STUFFED CUCUMBEES, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 628. — Prepare one dozen Cucumbers as in No. 627. Stuff 
them with a forced meat of roast chicken, into which add some 
fine chopped fresh mushrooms, and the same quantity of boiled 
smoked beef tongue. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each one, 
and arrange them in a buttered baking pan with a few drops of 
olive oil on each one. Then bake them in a moderate oven, and 
when they are nicely browned dish them up with a white or brown 
Italian sauce. 

STUFFED CUCUMBEES, TUEKISH STYLE. 

No. 629. — Prepare one dozen Cucumbers as in No. 627. Chop 
fine half a pound of cold, braized lamb, to which add a quarter of a 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 141 

pound of fine chopped beef suet, some cooked fine herbs, and three 
spoonfuls of rice, cooked in brotii. Season with salt, nutmeg, and 
a pinch of red pepper. Mix it well together over the fire, while 
adding the yolks of three raw eggs. Stuff the Cucumbers with this 
stuffing and sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them. Then arrange 
them in a buttered baking pan, with a piece of butter over each 
one, and bake them in a moderate oven until nicely browned. Then 
dish them up with a reduced, plain Tomato sauce. 

SCOLLOPED CUCUMBEKS, FOR GAENITUEE. 

No. 630. — Pare one dozen Cucumbers, slice them in half and cut 
out the seeds. Then parboil them for two minutes, immerse them in 
cold water, and dry them on a napkin. Put into a flat saucepan two 
spoonfuls of clarified butter, add the Cucumbers, and season them 
with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Cover the saucepan and 
let them simmer until cooked, without letting them get browned. 
Then drain off the butter and add the juice of one lemon, with some 
fine chopped parsley. Use as needed, as soon as they are cooked. 

SCOLLOPED CUCUMBERS, FOR GARNITURE WITH SAUCE. 

No. 631.— Prepare the Cucumbers in the same way as in No. 630, 
and fry them liglitly in clarified butter, then drain off the butter and 
add two spoonfuls of white broth, and reduce it on a brisk fire to a 
glaze. Then add, as may be needed, a few spoonfuls of Cream, 
Allemande, or Espagnole sauce. 

Note. — For large garnitures the stufied Cucumbers are used, alternated -with other vegetables. 
PUREE OF CUCUMBER. 

No. 632. — Prepare one dozen Cucumbers in the same manner as 
in No. 630. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, 
and season with salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar, a faggot of parsley 
garnished with a sprig of thyme, a few cloves, and a slice of raw, 
lean ham. Then put on the lid and let them simmer to reduce the 
moisture, after which add four spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande 
sauce, and let it cook for fifteen minutes. Then take out the faggot 
and rub the Cucumbers through a fine sieve. Keturn the puree into 
a flat saucepan, and add a glass of cream to it. Beduce this to its 
proper consistency while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Before 
serving, add a piece of butter. 

SOUP — CREAM OF CUCUMBER, QUEEN STYLE. 

No. 633. — Pare one and a half dozen medium sized fresh Cucum- 
bers, slice them in half and take out the seeds. Then cut them in 



142 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

scollops and parboil them for two minutes, after which drain them. 
Then put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter and set them 
on a brisk fire. When the moisture is reduced add one quart of white 
broth to them, with a faggot of parsley well garnished. Season 
them with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little fine sugar. When 
they are cooked, add two quarts of Cream sauce, and let them cook 
slowly for ten minutes. Then take out the faggot and rub the soup 
through a fine sieve; then return it to the saucepan and keep it 
warm in a hot water bath. Before serving add half a pound of 
butter in small pieces, and stir briskly with a whisk until the butter 
is melted; then add some fine chopped chives. 

PUREE OF CUCUMBERS, PaTTI STYLE. 

No. 634. — Prepare one and a half dozen Cucumbers as in No. 633, 
and when they are parboiled drain them dry. Then put them into 
a saucepan with a piece of butter and season with salt, pepper, 
nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over a brisk fire for a few 
minutes, then add a pint of chicken broth. Reduce it and then add 
one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth and let it cook slowly 
for half an hour. Skim it well and then rub the soup through a fine 
sieve. Return the puree to the saucepan and keep it warm on the 
fire. Before serving add a piece of butter and a pint of cream, 
into which dilute the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix the whole well 
together (not letting it boil). Serve with a garniture of small scol- 
loped Cucumbers, nicely glazed. 

CUCUMBERS, WITH PUREE OP CHICKENS. 

No. 635. — Prepare the Cucumbers as in No. 634, and when they 
have been tossed over the fire, add to them one quart of light 
Cream sauce and let them cook slowly until tender. Season them 
highly and add half their quantity of a puree of chicken diluted 
with chicken broth, enough to give it its proper consistency. Then 
rub it through a fine sieve, return it to the saucepan and keep it 
warm in a hot water bath. When ready to serve add a piece of 
butter, stirring it well until the butter is melted. Serve with small 
balls made with a forced meat of chicken previously poached in 
broth. 

CUCUMBERS FOR RELISH. 

No. 636. — Pare the Cucumbers and cut them in thin slices. 
Serve them in relisli dishes with a piece of ice on top of them to 
keep them cool. 

Peeled raw tomatoes, thinly sliced, may be used with them. 

Note.— In using Cucumbers as a plain relish only the young and freshest kinds should be used. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 143 

CUCUxMBER SALAD, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 637. — Pare one dozen Caciimbers — (when small, slice tliem; 
when large, split them in half ) — scoop out the seed and slice them 
fine. Then put them into an earthen bowl. Sprinkle them with 
salt and mis them well together. Set them in a cool place for one 
hour; after which drain off the water, pressing the Cucumbers 
gently. Season with pepper, oil, vinegar, and salt if needed, and 
add a little line chopped parsley. Mix well together, and serve in 
a salad bowl. 

CUCUMBER SAL.AD, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 638. — Prepare the Cucumbers the same as in No. 637, and 
when dressing them, add some sliced green bell peppers and some 
sliced peeled tomatoes. 

CUCUMBER SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 639. — After the Cucumbers are pared, cut and sliced as in 
No. 637, add, when ready to serve, some sliced green onions, and 
season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and add a little fine 
chopped parsley, and mix the whole well together. 

Note. — A light Mayonnaise dressing may be adclecl if desired. 
PRESERVED CUCUMBERS. 

No. 640. — Pare two dozen Cucumbers, cutting each one into four 
or five pieces, and trim so as to have them of uniform size. Take 
out the seed, and as you prepare them, put them into a bowl of 
cold water, lightly salted and acidulated. Then put on the fire a 
copper basin with one gallon of water. Into this put the Cucum- 
bers when the water is boiling, and when they are half-cooked take 
the basin off of the fire, and half an hour later take out the Cucum- 
bers. Drain them on a cloth. Then place them in quart cans, into 
which add cold boiled water lightly salted, so as to cover them. 
Solder on the covers and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one 
hour. 

PICIvLED CUCUMBERS (PICKLES OR GHERKINS). 

No. 641. — Select small and nicely shaped Cucumbers without any 
specks. Put them into a barrel of the size you intend filling. Put 
a layer of salt on each layer of Cucumbers, and add cold water 
enough to cover them. Then cover them with a round board, on 



144 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

top of which place some heavy weight to press the Cucumbers 
clown. Keep them in a cool place for six weeks, and occasionally 
stir them from the bottom. 

When ready to put them up, drain off the brine and throw away 
any of the Cucumbers that may have become softened. Put the 
good Cucumbers into fresh cold water over night. Drain the 
quantitv you need and put them into a copper basin, lined with 
cabbage leaves. Pour over them, so as to cover, wine or cider 
vinegar. Then cover with cabbage leaves, and set the basin on the 
fire to boil. After which, set them on the side of the fire and let 
them boil slowly, until the Cucumbers become firm. After this, take 
them off of the fire, and when they are cold put them into jars or 
other vessels, with a sprig of tarragon in each jar. (These Cucum- 
bers may be put up with other pickled vegetables, such as cauli- 
flower, beans, peppers and onions, each prepared separately, and 
arranged in jars, etc.) Pour vinegar over them and cork them up 
well. 

PICKLED CUCUMBERS. 

No. 642. — Pare half a dozen Cucumbers, cut them in half and 
scoop out the seeds. Then cut them in slices half an inch thick 
and trim so as to have them all equal in size. Pat them into an 
earthen bowl. Sprinkle them with a quarter of a pound of salt, 
and let them stand for ten hours, turning them over occasionally. 
Then draw off the water and put them in jars with an ounce of 
pepper corn and four bay leaves. Cover them with vinegar. Cork 
them tightly and set them in a cool place. 

PICKLED CUCUMBERS — MIXED PICKLES. 

No. 643. — Put into a small barrel two pounds of small, white 
onions, two pounds of small, round green peppers, and two hundred 
small Cucumbers. Make a strong brine, and pour it, boiling hot, 
over the Cucumbers. Two days after this, drain them and pour a 
new, cold brine over them. On the following day drain off this 
brine and boil it, adding a little salt to it, skim the brine well and 
pour it over the pickles. Two days after drain the pickles and put 
them into fresh water, rinsing them well. Then put them in jars 
and cover them with boiled wine or cider vinegar, adding a small 
piece of alum to the vinegar. 

Note.— Cucumbers may be picklei in spiced vinegar in the same way as the above, only in 
boiling the vinegar it is necessary to put into a cloth bag one ounce of cloves and one of allspice, and 
to boil this with the vinegar. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 145 



Article LXXVII. 



FrcBCli CUCKOO-FLOWER CRESS. German 

C'resson Elegant des pres. Kuchuhablume. 

No. CM. — This is a hardy, perennial plant, that is grown in the 
Northern and Southern States. The stem is about fifteen inches 
high, being erect and smooth. The leaves are deeply divided and 
have a warm, pungent taste, such as is always noticeable in the 
Cress family. They are used when young as a salad, the same as 
other cresses. Medicinally it has the reputation of being highly 
anti-scorbutic, and it also aids digestion. There are four varieties : 
the white flowering, the purple flowering, the double white flower- 
ing, and the double purple flowering. The last two varieties are 
propagated by a division of the roots. The single varieties are 
propagated from seed, which is sown in April, in shallow drills, one 
foot apart. The roots may be divided in spring or autumn. 



Articlk lxxviii. 



CUMIN. 

Gamin. Kummel. 

No. 645. — Cumin, though a native of Egypt, may be successfully 
grown in the Southern or Middle States. The plant is cultivated 
for its seed, which is carminative and is used the same as caraway 
and coriander, and for flavoring a liqueur called Kiimmel. It 
is a tender, annual plant. Its seeds are long and furrowed, 
and of a pale brownish color. It requires a light, warm, loamy soil. 
Sow in May in drills fourteen inches apart and half an inch deep. 
When the plants are well up trim them to three inches apart in the 
lines. 



Article lxxix. 



CURRY. 

Kari. Kari. 

No. 646. — Curry is a preparation made of spices that come from 
East India. It comes both as a powder and a paste. There are 
10 



146 hardee's ameeican cookeey. 

many spurious imitations made here that are composed of ground 
red and black pepper, curcuma, cloves, nutmeg and ginger, and 
which are far inferior in quality to the genuine article; in fact, they 
hardly resemble it. Preparations in which Curry is a component 
part .should always be accompanied by a dish of rice. 



Arxiclk L-XXX. 



French DANDELION. Germau 

Pisse en lit. Lowenzahn. 

No. 647. — Those who only know the Dandelion as the persistent 
weed in pastures and lawns (which is gathered for salads when 
young and green), know no more of its real value than one who has 
only seen the poisonous wild parsnip or carrot knows of the value 
of those vegetables. The improved variety makes it one of the ear- 
liest and best greens in cultivation. It is a hardy perennial plant, 
resembling the endive, and affords one of the best and most health- 
ful of spring salads. 

" CULTUEE. 

No. 648. — When cultivated the seeds should be sown in May or 
June, in drills half an inch deep and twelve inches apart. The 
plants will be ready for use the following spring. It is also exten- 
sively grown for its roots. For this purpose it is sown in Septem- 
ber and cultivated well during the fall, and in the following season 
the roots will be fit to dig up in October. The roots, after being 
dried, constitute an article of commercial importance, being exten- 
sively employed as a substitute for, or mixed with coffee. 

LAEGE LEAVED DANDELION (CULTIVATED). 

No. 649. — When cultivated its leaves are fully double the size of 
the common Dandelion. It is a great improvement over the com- 
mon variety, and when blanched it can be prepared in every way, 
the same as the endive. 

DANDELION SALAD. 

No. 650. — Prepare the same as endive salad. No. 703. It is a 
healthful breakfast salad. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 147 

DANDELION BROTH. 

No. 651, — Dandelion boiled in water is a refreshing diet drink 
when cold. 



Article LXXXI. 



Frcitcli DILL. Gerntaii 

Aneth. Dill. 

No. 652. — Dill is a hardy biennial plant, and is cultivated for its 
seeds, which have an aromatic odor and a warm pungent taste. It 
is a corrective for flatulence and colic in infants, and is added to 
pickled cucumbers to heighten their flavor. The leaves are some- 
times used to flavor soups and sauces, and the seeds for flavoring 
pickles. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 653. — Sow early in spring and keep clear of Aveeds. 



Article LXXXII 



DIET DRINKS (Tisanes). 

Tisane. Dii'it GetriinJce.. 

No. 654. — It is the duty of every chief cook to know how to com- 
pound and prepare diet drinks, juleps and apozems. Diet drinks, 
or tisanes, are made for sick persons, to be taken as a refreshment. 
They should be prepared in such a manner that the taste will be 
agreeable to the patient. In making diet drinks it is best to use 
earthen pots. They should not be allowed to draw more than half 
an hour or they will get too strong and bitter. When flowei-s, 
leaves or herbs are used, diet drinks are made by infusion; when 
roots are used, they are boiled. 

The following are the principal plants, roots, flowers, herbs and. 
seeds from which diet drinks are made: 



148 



HARDER S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Basil, Sweet, 

Barley (heads or crowns), 

Beets (white), 

Borage , 

Brier leaves, 
■^Catechu, 

Centaury, 

Chamomile, 

Chervil, 

Colt's-foot (flowers), 

Colt^s-foot (roots) , 
■^Oomfrey (roots), 

Coriander (seeds), 

Corn Poppy, 
^Corsican Sea Moss, 
■^Crow's-foot, 

Elder Tree (flower buds). 

Endive, 

Fennel, Sweet, 
^Gentian Boot, 

Hollyhock, 

Horseradish, 
■^Iceland Moss, 

Juniper Berries, 

*See description of these in the glossary. 



Lettuce, 
^Lichen, 

Lime Tree or Linden Tree, 

Mallow (flowers). 

Malt, 

Marsh Mallow, 
^^Marsh Trefoil, 

Marjoram, Sweet, 

Mint, 

Mullen, 

Oak (common wall German- 
der), 
*Orange (blossoms), 
^Orange (leaves). 

Parsley (roots), 
^Pomegranate (roots.) 

Rosemary, 

Sage, 

Sorrel, 

Thjane, 

Venus hair, 
*Yiolet (flowers), 

Water Cress, 
^ White Archangel Nettle. 



DECOCTION OF MALT. 



No. 655. — Malt is barley or other grain steeped in water till it 
germinates, and then dried in a kiln, thus evolving the saccharine 
principle. The decoction of malt makes an emollient diet drink of 
agreeable taste, which is nourishing to a small degree. 



HERB JUICE. 



No. 656. — Herb juice is made by combining a variety of herbs 
and vegetables, such as the endive, water cress, lettuce, chervil, 
sorrel and white beet. Use equal parts of the herbs or vegetables 
desired and pound them in a mortar into a fine, homogeneous paste. 
Then press out or extract the juice. Mix four or five ounces of it 
in a cup of veal or chicken broth and drink it before breakfast. A 
spoonful of lime syrup may be added to it. This is a drink that 
will cleanse the system well. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 149 

ICELAND MOSS, OR LICHEN DIET DRINK. 

No. 657. — Put one ounce of Iceland Moss or Lichen into one 
pound of water, to macerate for twelve hours. Then drain off the 
water and put the Moss to boil in three pounds of fresh water, letting 
it boil until one-third of the quantity of water is reduced. Then 
strain it through a napkin and add one ounce of marsh mallow syrup. 
This is an emollient drink, and is frequently used for complaints 
relative to the chest or breast, and for affections of the larynx. It 
would be advisable to dilute this with one-third of its quantity of 
cow's milk, if the stomach can stand it. 

COLT'S-POOT DIET DRINK. 

No. 658. — Put half an ounce of Colt's-foot roots in a pint of water, 
and let it boil a few minutes. Then take it from the fire and add 
two pinches of Colt's-foot flower. It should be taken at regular inter- 
vals. It may be mixed with wine instead of water, if taken at 
dinner. 

AN ANTI-BILIOUS DIET DRINK. 

No. 659. — Take half a handful of barley heads having long beards 
or arms, and put them in a pint of water. Let it boil awhile and 
then add two rennet apples, peeled and cut in quarters. Then strain 
it through a napkin and add four ounces of vinegar syrup and the 
juice of two lemons. It is then ready for use. 

AN EMOLLIENT DIET DRINK. 

No. 660. — Put a handful of mallow flowers and two ounces of 
Canadian venus-hair in a pint of boiling water and let it steep. 
Then strain it and add one ounce of ground gum arable and two 
ounces of clarified honey. It is then ready for use. 

A PECTORAL DIET DRINK. 

No. 661. — Take two ounces of dates, two ounces of jujube and two 
ounces of dried currants. Put them in a pint of water to boil. 
When boiled strain them through a towel and add one ounce of gum 
or marsh mallow syrup. It is then ready for use. 

Another pectoral diet drink can be made as follows : Make a de- 
coction of rennet apples, after which add to it equal proportions of 
violet flowers, colt's-foot, mallow and mullen. Sweeten it with honey 
and strain it through a fine hair sieve. It is then ready for use. 



150 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

APOZEMS. 

No. 662. — Apozems are concentrated tisanesi with medicinal and 
pharmaceutic preparation, and should be made by infusion or de- 
coction. The ingredients should be macerated or ground to a 
powder, as the case may be. Apozems used for cleansiag the sys- 
tem have sarsaparilla or burdock as a basis. The stiptic, diuretic, 
purgative and the febrifuge Apozems should be made only from a 
physician's prescription, as should anj^ others that are intended for 
internal use. They can be made with convenience to use as lotions, 
gargles or injections. The method of cooking them and the mode 
of application must be thoroughly understood. 

Note. — Use the apothecaries' weight in weighing mistures. 

A DIURETIC OR APERIENT APOZEM. 

No. 663. — Take four drams of wild horseradish, and two drams of 
crushed juniper berries. Put them in a pot. Pour twelve ounces 
of boiling water over them and cover the pot tight. In a few minutes 
strain it through a piece of flannel and let it stand. When it is 
cold add a pint of white wine, in which you have dissolved two 
ounces of vinegar, honey and syrup of squills mixed in equal 
quantities. This Apozem is used in cases of gravel or when the 
flow of urine is embarrassed. Take three wine glasses full in the 
morning before breakfast. 

A VERMIFUGE APOZEM. 

No. 664. — Take one ounce of Corsican sea moss and one ounce of 
Artemesia syrup and put them in eight ounces of boiling water to 
steep. This Apozem is appropriate for children having worms. 
Grown persons who have the solitary worm use a decoction of pom- 
egranate roots, which is an efficient remedy. 

AN ANTI-SCORBUTIC APOZEM. 

No. 665. — Take a handful of menyanthes leaves, one of sorrel 
leaves and one of horseradish roots. Put them in four pounds of 
water and boil it until the quantity of water is reduced one-half. 
This is an excellent remedy in cases of scurvy. 

AN ASTRINGENT APOZEM. 

No. 666. — Take two drams of catechu and two drams of comfrey 
roots. Boil them in one quart of water, and when reduced to one- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 151 

quarter of its Tolume, strain it and add two ounces of quince sjrup. 
Take half a cupful at a time. 

A STOMACHIC APOZEM. 

No. 667. — Take one ounce of gantian root, cut in small pieces and 
boil it in a pint of water. Then add two ounces of the end butts of 
oak (small germander) and two ounces of the following mixture, 
equally proportioned: Centaury, fumitory, marsh trefoil, and hop 
seed. Let it all steep for two hours, and then drain it through a 
towel without pressing it. Take half a glassful every hour. 

A PURGATIVE APOZEM. 

No. 668. — Take two ounces of senna leaves, one ounce of 
Glauber's salt, one dram of anise seed, one dram of coriander seed, 
one ounce of chervil leaves, and one ounce of burnet leaves. Add 
to this mixture one sliced lemon. Put it all in an earthen bowl, 
with two pounds of cold water, and let it macerate for twenty-four 
hours, stirring it occasionally. Strriin it through a towel with light 
pressure, and then filter it. This is an agreeable and efficient 
purgative. 

A GERMAN APOZEM, OR WHITE DECOCTION. 

No.' 669. — Pound in a mortar two ounces of bread crumbs and' 
two drams of calcine crow's-foot until thoroughly pulverized. Boil 
one ounce of white cube sugar in a quart of water for twenty-five 
minutes, and then add to it one ounce of orange flower water and 
the pulverized bread crumbs and crows-foot. Strain it all through 
a fine sieve, with pressure. Take half a glassful every other hour. 
Shake the mixture well before taking. This is an excellent correc- 
tive of diarrhcea. 



Articlk lxxxiii. 



French EGG PLANT. German 

Aubergine. , Eierpflanze. 

No. 670. — The Egg Plant is a tender, annual plant, that origin- 
ated in South America. When well grown and properly cooked, it 
is a delicious table vegetable. Its fruit resembles a large egg in 
shape. There are two varieties, the white and the violet. 



152 HAKDER's AMERICAN COOKERY, 

CULTURE. 

No. 671. — Tlie seed germinates slowly and should be started in 
strong heat, for in this, as in all tropical plants, it is of import- 
ance to secure a rapid and continuous growth from the first, the 
plants never recovering from a check received when young. When 
the plants have formed two rough leaves, transplant them to four 
inches apart, keep the bed closed and very warm, shaded from the 
direct rays of the sun, and giving them an abundance of water until 
the ground is warm and all danger, not only from frost but from 
cold nights, is past. Then harden off the plants by gradual exposure 
to the sun and air, and decrease the supply of water. Then care- 
fully transplant them into warm, rich soil, setting the plants two 
and one-half feet apart. If needed shade the young plants and 
protect them from the potatoe bug, which is very fond of them, and 
if not prevented will soon destroy the young plants. 

EARLY LONG PURPLE. 

No. 672. — This is one of the earliest and most productive varie- 
ties. The fruit is long and of a dark, rich, purple color, of fine 
quality. 

BLACK PEKIN. 

No. 673. — Nearly as early as the above, and as large as the New 
York purple. It is very prolific and desirable for market. The 
fruit is nearly round, the skin is smooth, black and glossy; and the 
flesh is white, fine grained and delicate. 

LARGE NEW YORK PURPLE. 

No. 674. — This is large and round, and of excellent quality, and 
is highly esteemed in the Eastern market. 

IMPROVED LARGE PURPLE. 

No. 675. — This is the best in cultivation, being early, a sure 
crop, and of fine quality. The plants are large and vigorous, with 
light green leaves. The fruit is very large and oval-shaped, a deep 
purple in color, with'an occasional dash of green about the stem. 
The flesh is white, tender and superior in quality. 

GUADALOUPE STRIPED. 

No. 676. The fruit is nearly oval in shape, and the skin white 
and variegated with purple, being very ornamental. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 153 

ORNAMENTAL VARIETIES. 

No. 677. — There are three kinds which are not eatable, but are 
very ornameutal in gardens — namely, the scarlet, the tomato-shaped 
and the white-fruited. The fruit of the scarlet is about the size of 
a hen's egg, of a whitish color, which changes to yellow and after- 
wards to a brilliant scarlet. The tomato-shaped is of a bright red 
color. The white-fruited is egg-shaped and very ornamental. 

EGG PLANT, FEIED (FRENCH STYLE). 

No. 678, — Peel and slice two Egg Plants. Sprinkle fine salt over 
each slice, and then replace them in shape asiain. Press them 
gently and set them aside for half an hour. Then drain oft' the 
water, dry them, dip them in beaten eggs, then in flour, and fry 
them in hot lard. Season with salt and serve them on a napkin. 

EGG PLANT, BREADED AND FEIED (AMERICAN STYLE). 

No. 679. — Prepare the Egg Plants as in No. 678. Season them 
with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten eggs, and then in raspings 
of bread. Fry them in hot lard, drain them, and serve them on a 
napkin. 

EGG PLANT, LYONNAISE. 

No. 680. — Peel four Egg Plants and cut them in quarters. Par- 
boil them for fifteen minutes in water lightly salted, drain them and 
trim and cut them in scollops. Put them in a flat saucepan with a 
piece of butter, season with salt and pepper, and fry them to a nice, 
bright color. Before serving add a little finely chopped parsley. 

EGG PLANT WITH CHEESE, NEAPOLITAN STYLE. 

No. 681. — Peel and slice three Egg Plants, sprinkle a little salt 
between each slice, and replace them in shape again. After half an 
hour press them dry, then fry them in olive oil and drain them on a 
napkin. Season them with salt and pepper and arrange them in a but- 
tered baking dish, with a little grated Parmesan cheese between 
each slice. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs and grated cheese, over 
the top, moisten them with a few drops of olive oil, wipe the bor- 
ders of the dish, and bake them in a moderate oven. 

EGG PLANT, WITH CREAM AND CHEESE. 

No. 682.— Prepare the Egg Plant as in No. 680. Fry them in 
clarified butter and place them in a baking dish, with a reduced cream 



154 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

sauce, in which add four oances of grated Parmesan chee-e, sprinkle 
fresh bread crumbs over the top, and a piece of butter divided into 
small pieces, and bake in an oven. 

PUREE OF EGG PLAXT, 

No. 683. — Cut throe Egg Plants into halves and fry them in hot 
lard. Then drain them on a napkin with the cut side on the 
bottom. When cold peel them, cut them into small pieces, put 
them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and let them simmer until 
the moisture is reduced. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add 
four spoonfuls of Aliemande or Cream sauce, and when well mixed 
rub it through a fine sieve. Before serving add a piece of butter, 

STUFFED EGG PLANT, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 684. — Cut four Egg Plants into halves lengthwise, and with 
a knife cut around the inner part, close to the skin, without detach- 
ing it. Fry them in hot Jard and drain them on a linen towel, the 
side which is cut being downward. Then scoop out the middle 
j)art so as to leave only the shell. When they are all prepared chop 
finely that which you scoop out of the Egg Plant. Put in a sauce- 
pan two fine chopped onions witli a piece of butter. Fry them 
lightly and add the chopped Egg Plant with four ounces of fine 
chopped mushrooms. Reduce the moisture, then add four spoon- 
fuls of Espagnole .-auce, one handful of fresh bread crumbs and a 
little fine chopped parsley. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. 
Stir them well together, adding in slowly the yolks of five raw eggs. 
When well mixed fill the shell of the Egg Plant, arrange them 
together in a buttered pan, sprinkle bread crumbs over them, put 
a piece of butter in each and bake them in a slow oven. Serve with 
a brown Italian sauce. 

STUFFED EGG PLANT, BRAZILIAN STYLE. 

No, 685. — Prepare the Egg Plaat the same as No. 683, Add to 
the stuffing four soup-spoonfuls of fine chopped capers, with two 
teaspoonfnls of auchovie paste. Serve with a reduced Espagnole 
sauce, 

STUFFED EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE, 

No. 686,— Prepare the Egg Plant as in No. 683. Cook in 
wdiite broth a quarter of a pound of rice. When well cooked 
and dry, chop two onions fine and put them in a saucepan 
with three spoonfuls of olive oil. Fry them lightly, and then 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 155 

acid one clove of fine chopped garlic, the chopped Egg 
Plant, and the same quantity of roast mutton cut into small 
pieces. Let it simmer slowly and then add the rice. fSeason it 
with salt and a pinch of red pepper, and add four spoonfuls of 
Tomato sauce and some fine chopped parsley. Mix all well together 
and set it aside to get cold. Then stuff the Egg Plant with this 
preparation and sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over each. Arrange 
them in a buttered pan, with a few drops of olive oil over each, bake 
them in a moderate oven, and serve witli a reduced Tomato sauce. 

STUFFED EGG PLANT, PARISIAN STYLE. 

No. 687. — Prepare three Egg Plants as in No. 683. Stuff them 
with the following preparation: chop three white onions fine, put 
them in a sau.cepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly. Add 
the Egg Plant, which you cut into small, square pieces, also the 
breast of two roast chickens, same quantity of roast pork, and a 
quarter of a pound of marrow. Let it simmer for twenty minutes, 
and then add one handful of fresh bread crumbs. Season it with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, and then add the yolks of four raw eggs. Mix 
the whole well together, adding some fine chopped parsley. Having 
filled the Egg Plants with the stuffing, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs 
over them, with a piece of butter on each. Bake them in an oven 
and serve with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. 

EGG PLANTS, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 688. — Use small Egg Plants, and stuff them as in Nos. 683, 
684, 685, and 686. For entrees of broiled meats use the puree as in 
- No. 682, to which you may add a reduced Madeira wine sauce in 
place of Allemande sauce, as may be required. 

EGG PLANT SALAD. 

No. 689. — Peel two middle sized Egg Plants, cut them in slices 
a quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle each slice with a little salt, and 
put them together again. After half an hour press them gently, to 
extract the moisture. Then dry them on a napkin. Fry them 
lightly in clarified butter, then drain them on a napkin. When 
cold cut them in small pieces, put fhem in a salad bowl, with some 
scolloped pickled sturgeon, a spoonful of grated horse-radish 
mixed with mustard, a clove of fine chopped garlic, a little fine 
chopped parsley, and a handful of water cress. Season them with 
salt, pepper, olive oil, and vinegar. Mix the whole well together, 
then arrange them properly, and garnish them with stoned olives 
and hard boiled eggs cut into quarters. 



156 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



ARTICL.K LXXXIV. 



Freucli EGYPTIAN CUCUMBER, Ccrmai. 

Concomhre Egyptien. Egyptische Gurkc. 

No. 690. — This is a tender annual plant, that is seldom cultivated 
in this country. The fruit is small, oblong, and very hairy, and is 
eaten either raw or cooked. In Egypt, a refreshing and agreeable 
beverage is made from the bulbs. Its culture is the same as that 
of cucumbers or melons. 



Articlk LXXXV. 



ELDERBERRIES. 

Graine de Surreau. HoUunderbeere. 

No. 691. — The Elderberry tree is found in all parts of this 
country, the flowery buds and fruit being used. The flowery buds 
are used for diet drinks. Pick them in bunches in the morning, 
before the rising of the sun, put them in a wooden tub and cover it 
with a blanket. When the heat will have expanded them, pick off 
the flowers, spread them out on a table, and when perfectly dry, 
put them in boxes, and keep them in a dry, dark place. The 
berries when ripe are used for making and coloring red wine. 

ELDERBERRY CATSUP. 

No. 692. — Pick two quarts of ripe Elderberries, put them in an 
earthen jar and pour two quarts of boiled wine vinegar over them. 
After three days drain them and put the liquid in a saucepan, 
adding two spoonfuls of sugar, half an ounce of pepper corn, a 
teaspoonful of ginger, a teaspoonful of ground mace, and a soup 
spoonful of Anchovie paste. Let it boil for half an hour, stirring 
it occasionally, and then pour it over the berries again. Cover it 
when cold, and after three days strain it through a towel, then put 
it in bottles and cork them well. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 157 



Article LXXXVI, 



Ficiic:! ELECAMPANE. German 

Aunee. Alantiuurzel. 

No. 693. — Is a liardy, herbaceous, perennial plant, growing spon- 
taneously in moist places and in the vicinity of gardens where it 
has once been cultivated. The stem is from three to five feet high, 
thick and strong, branching towards the top. The leaves are from 
nine inches to one foot in length, oval-toothed on the margin, and 
downy below. The flower resembles a small sunflower, and is 
general propagated by dividing the roots, but may be grown from 
seeds, which are sown just after ripening. Elecampane is cultivated 
for its roots, which are carminative, sudorific, tonic, and alleviating 
in pulmonary diseases. They are in perfection when of two years' 
growth. 



Articlk lxxxvii 



ENDIVE, OR CHICOREE. 

Chicore^i ou Scarole. Endive, or Cichorie. 

No. 694. — The Endive, in its natural state, is very bitter, but when 
properly blanched its leaves make a tine salad, and coming as it 
does, after the Lettuce, it is very useful for autumn and winter 
salad. There are two special kinds, of which there are ten 
different varieties. The Wild Chicoree, known as the Dandelion, 
is mostly eaten in salad when young and tender. The cultivated 
Endive (broad leaf) is u^ed as a vegetable, and is prepared the 
same as spinach. 

CULTURE. 

No. 695. — It may be grown at any season of the year, but is 
generally used late in the fall. Sow the seed during June or July, 
in drills fourteen inches apart, and when well up thin the plants to 
one foot apart. When nearly full grown tie the outer leaves 
together over the centre, in order to blanch the heart of the plant. 
They will usually be fit for the table in ten days, and will continue 
in condition for use for about one week, so that the tieing up should 
be done every few days, in order to secure a succession. 



158 haedee's amepjcan cookery. 

french moss. 

No. 696, — Is beautifully curled, and when well developed appears 
like a tuft of moss. 

BROAD-LEAVED BAT AVIAN. 

No. 697. — This is the chicoree (scarole) of the French kind, and 
is chiefly used for cooking, but, when the outer leaves are gathered 
and tied at the top, the whole plant will blanch nicely and make an 
excellent salad for the table. 

GREEN CURLED. 

No. 698. — Is the hardiest variety, with beautifully curled dark 
green leaves, wdiich blanch white and are very crisp and tender. 

ENDIVES, W^TH CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 699. — Select six young and tender heads of Endives. Trim 
off the three outer hard layers of green leaves, trim the edges of 
the others, cut off the roots and wash the heads in plenty of cold 
water. Separate the leaves, as there are liable to be small worms 
in them, and then drain them. Have some lightly salted boiling 
water in a saucepan. Put in the Endives, let them cook until ten- 
der and then immerse them in cold water. Tlien drain them and 
press them dry between the palms of the hands. Chop them fine 
on a chopping board. Then put four ounces of butter in a sauce- 
pan, and when it is melted add the chopped Endives, stirring them 
well over a brisk fire for a few minutes. Season them with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg, and add four spoonfuls of Cream sauce. When 
it is all well mixed and thoroughly warmed, serve it with small 
pieces of toasted broad around the dish. 

ENDIVES, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 700. — Prepare the Endives as in No. 699. Add two spoon- 
fuls of flour when the butter is melted, and let them cook to a light 
brown while stirring well. Then add the Endives. Season with 
salt, pepper and nutmeg, and while mixing it all well together 
add a pint of cream or milk. Then serve it. 

ENDIVES WITH POACHED EGGS. 

No. 701, — Prepare the Endives as in No. 699. Add Allemande 
sauce in place of Cream sauce, and garnish with poached eggs, 
having a few drops of meat glaze on each egg. 



THi; PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 159 

ENDIVES WITH VEAL GEAVY. 

No. 702. — When the Endives are prepared as in No. 699, chop 
them coarsely. Then put fonr ounces of butter in a saucepan, and 
when it is melted add two spoonfuls of flour. Cook it to a light 
brown while stirring it, add them and the Endives. Season them 
with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well, and add in slowly a> 
pint of veal gravy. Add a piece of butter before serving. 

PUEEE OP ENDIVES. 

No. 703. — Prepare and cook the Endives as in No. 699. Then 
chop them iine. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, 
and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir it well over a brisk 
fire and add four spoonfuls of reduced AUemande or Cream sauce. 
Then rub the puree through a fine sieve and put it back in the 
saucepan to warm thoroughly. Then add a spoonful of half-glaze 
and a piece of butter, and serve it. 

ENDIVE SALAD, FEENCH STYLE. 

No. 704. — Wash and trim the endives carefully, separate the 
leaves, drain them and put them in a salad bowl. Rub a clove of 
garlic on two pieces of bread crust about the size of a dollar (thi& 
is called cliapon). Add them to the salad and season with salt, 
pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and mix it all gently together. 

Note. — Dress the salad only when ready to serve. 

ENDIVE SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 705. — Prepare the Endives as in No. 704, Season it with 
salt, pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and add some fine chopped pars- 
ley or chives, aad half as much fine sliced boiled new potatoes as 
there is salad. Mix it all gently together and garnish it with pickled 
beets and hard boiled eggs cut in halves. 

ENDIVE SALAD, AMEEICAN STYLE. 

No. 706. — Trim and carefully wash the Endives, separate the 
leaves and put them on a napkin to absorb the moisture. Then put 
them in a salad bowl, season them with salt, pepper, olive oil and 
vinegar, and add some fine chopped tarragon and chervil. Put 
two fine chopped shallots in a towel and dip them in boiling- 
water for one minute. Then immerse them in cold water, wring 
them dry and put them in the salad, mixing it gently together. 



160 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Arrange it properly, placing on the top some fine sliced green bell 
peppers. Garnish it with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. 

SOUP — CREAM OF ENDIVE WITH POACHED EGGS. 

No. 707. — Prepare one gallon of thickened chicken or veal broth. 
Trim and wash eight Endives carefully, and boil them in water 
lightly salted. When boiled immerse them in cold water, then 
drain them and press them dry. Chop them in small pieces, put 
them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. Put them on a brisk fire 
and stir them well until the moisture is reduced. Then pour in 
the chicken broth slowly, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Then 
skim it and rub it through a fine sieve, and put it back in the 
saucepan to keep warm. Before serving it dilute eight raw eggs in 
a pint of cream, and add it to the soup, with six ounces of butter. 
Stir it all well until the butter is melted. Serve separately a dish 
of poached eggs in broth. 

ENDIVES PRESERVED IN CANS. 

No. 708. — Select four dozen Endives, trim off the outer green 
leaves, and wash the remainder in plenty of cold water. Parboil 
them until tender, then immerse them in cold water, drain them 
and press them dry. Then chop them coarsely, and put them in a 
saucepan with a piece of butter. Set the pan on a brisk fire, 
stirring well until all of the moisture is reduced. Then put them 
in an earthen jar to get cold. When cold put them in quart tin 
cans, solder on the covers, and boil the cans in a hot water bath 
for two hours. 



Article: LXXXVIII. 



FreiicJi FARINA. German 

Farina, Farina. 

No. 709. — Farina is made from wheat or corn and is largely sold 
under the name of Semoule, which, however, is a different article. 
Farina was the first and principal food of the ancient Romans. It 
is used in soups, puddings and other pastry preparations. When 
it is cooked in milk and sweetened it makes an agreeable diet for 
invalids. It also makes a nice gruel when made with milk, water or 
broth. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF I'ASTE. 161 

FARINA (polenta) OF CORN MEAL, PIEMONTAISE. 

No. 710. — Put three quarts of water iu a saucepan, and when it 
boils add a little salt and a piece of butter. Then drop in slowly 
two pounds of corn meal Farina, while stirring it. When it 
commences to thicken set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly 
for twenty -live minutes, stirring it up from the bottom occasionally. 
When it is cooked take it off of the fire and add six ounces of 
butter and six ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, mixing it all well 
together. Then put it in Charlotte moulds, that are buttered with 
clarified butter, and keep them warm until ready for use, when you 
will turn them out and sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over them. 
Serve them with a reduced beef gravy, in which put some essence 
of mushrooms. 

Note. — Broth may be used instead of water. If cooked this way serve a tureen of game cou?o:iime 
with them. 

FARINA (polenta) OF CORN MEAL ON SKIVERS. 

No. 711. — Cook the Farina the same as in No. 710, but keep it 
firmer. When cooked take it off of the fire and add a piece of butter 
and some grated Parmesan cheese. Then pour it in a buttered 
pan, having it about one-quarter of an inch thick, put a buttered 
paper cover over it, and set it on ice to get cold. Cut out as many 
pieces as possible, the size of a twenty-five cent piece, with a round 
^cutter. Then cut some Swiss cheese in thin slices, and with the 
same cutter cut out the same number of pieces as you have of the 
Farina. Take a four inch wooden skiver and place on it a ring of 
the Farina, and then a ring of cheese, alternating in this way until 
three inches are covered. Then roll them in fresh bread crumbs, 
dip them in beaten eggs and then bread them again. Mould them 
neatly and fry them in hot lard. When nicely browned drain them 
and replace the wooden skiver with a silver one. Serve them on a. 
napkin. 

FARINA CRUSTS (POLENTA) OF CORN MEAL, ITALLIN STYLE. 

No. 712. — Cook the Farina as in No. 710, but keep it firmer. 
When it is cooked, add four ounces of butter and six ounces of 
grated Parmesan cheese, and mix them well together. Then put it 
in one dozen small, round buttered Charlotte moulds. Smooth the 
tops evenly, cover them with a buttered paper and set them in a 
cool place. When they are cold turn them out. Remove the paper 
cover, roll them in fresh bread crpmbs, and dip them in beaten eggs. 
Then bread them again and shape them nicely. Make a light 
impression on the top of each with a small cutter. Then fry them. 
11 



162 HARDEK'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

in hot lard, and when nicely browned, drain them. After this, 
take off the small cover and scoop out the center, (taking care not 
to break the shell), and fill them with the following preparation: 

Put the yolks of five raw eggs in a saucepan, add a pinch of nut- 
meg, and dilute it all with half a pint of cream. Add to it one pound 
of grated Parmesan cheese. Set it on a moderate fire and stir it 
until the cheese is melted. (Do not let it boil.) It should have the 
consistency of a sauce. 

When filled, serve them hot. 

FARINA CRUSTS OR STANDS, OF CORN MEAL, FOR HOT OR COLD SIDE DISHES. 

No. 713. — These crusts or stands are made either with bread, 
rice or Farina. Those made with Farina are better than those with 
rice, for hot dishes, as they are not so heavy, and are better than 
those made with bread, as the Farina does not absorb the moisture 
as quick as the bread when they lay for any length of time. Cook 
the Farina in water, lightly salted, keeping it firm. When it is 
cooked put it in a buttered mould as near the size of the crust as 
possible, that you intend making. Smooth the surface, cover it 
with a buttered paper, cover and put on this a wooden cover with a 
weight on top to press the Farina down solid in the mould. Lay it 
aside to get cold and hard. Then take it out of the mould, and with 
a small sharp knife cut it into any shape desired. Dip it in beaten 
eggs and then in fresh bread crumbs or raspings of bread, and fry it 
in hot lard until nicely browned. Then drain it and keep it for use. 

FARINA TARTLETS OF CORN MEAL. 

No. 714. — Cook the Farina as in No. 710, and keep it firm. But- 
ter some small Tartlet moulds with clarified butter and set them in a 
cool place to let the butter get cold. Put the Farina into the 
moulds with a table knife, leaving a space in the center for filling. 
Fill the center with grated Parmesan cheese and smooth off the 
top. Then set them in a cool place, and when they are cold take 
them out of the moulds. Bread them in a mixture of half bread 
crumbs and lialf grated Parmesan cheese. Then dip them in beaten 
eggs and bread them again with the same mixture. Shape them 
well, then fry them in hot lard until nicely browned. Then drain 
them, dish them up on a napkin and serve them hot. 

FARINA QUENELLES, OR BALLS, OF CORN MEAL. 

No. 715. — These are made nearly the same as Tartlets, except 
that Gruyere cheese is used instead of Parmesan cheese. When 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 163 

they are cold dip them in beaten eggs and fry them in hot lard. 
They may be used as a garniture or served the same as Tartlets. 

FRIED FARINA (POLENTA) OF CORN MEAL, RAMEQUIN. 

No. 716. — Cook one pound of Farina as in No. 710. When it is 
cooked take it off of the fire, add three ounces of butter divided 
into small pieces, and four ounces cf grated Parmesan cheese. 
Season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar, and mix it 
well together. Moisten the pan slightly with cold water and drop a 
soup-spoonful of the Polenta into it so it will spread out a little, and 
continue doing this until the bottom of the pan is well covered, 
keeping each cake separate. Put some grated Parmesan cheese in 
the center of each, or a small piece of Gruyere cheese. Now cover 
each piece with a thin layer of the Polenta and set the pan aside, so 
the cakes will get cold. With a cutter about the size of a dollar 
cut out the cakes to a round shape. Take them out of the pan, dip 
them in beaten eggs and then in bread crumbs. Put a little clarified 
butter in a frying pan, and when it is warm add the Ramequin (not 
putting too many in the pan at a time), and fry them on both sides 
to a nice brown. Serve them on a napkin with fried parsley as a 
garniture. 

FARINA (polenta) FOR GARNITURES. 

No. 717. — When the Polenta is cooked as in No. 710, put it in 
small round buttered Charlotte moulds and keep them warm. Then 
turn them out and use them for large garnitures. They are espe- 
cially appropriate for Italian dinners. Those prepared as in Nos. 
713, 714, 715 and 716 can also be used as garnitures. 

farina gruel. 

No. 718. — Boil one pint of water, milk or broth, and when boil- 
ing drop in it four soup-spoonfuls of Farina, stirring it well. Let 
it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes. Sweeten or season to taste. 



Article lxxxix, 



Freiicli FECULA. iierman 

Fecule. Fecula. 

No. 719. — Fecula is the nutritious part of wheat, starch, farina 
or potatoes. It is used in sauces and soups, being devoid of flavor, 



164 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and is nutritious, healthful and light. It can be used for eveiy 
purpose that arrow root is used for. In cooking Fecula for inva- 
lids, it should be first diluted in cold water and then put in boiling 
milk, broth or Avater. About two spoonfuls is sufficient for a pint 
of liquid. Stir it well when putting it in. Let it cook for about 
twenty minutes, and then season or sweeten it as may be desired. 



ARTICIvK XC. 



French SWEET FENNEL. Cei-maa 

Fenouil. Fenchel. 

N'o. 720. — Sweet Fennel is a hardy, perennial, aromatic plant, of 
which there are several varieties. The common, or bitter fennel, 
has strong, deep, fleshy roots, and the seeds have a broAvnish color 
and a bitter taste similar to the leaves. Sweet Fennel seeds are 
used by confectioners and distillers, and the leaves are used for 
flavoring soups and sauces. The seeds resemble anise seeds. 

CULTURE. 

No. 721.— Fennel is cultivated the same as anise. Italian Fennel 
is quite distinct from the common variety, and is cultivated 
annually. The flowers are produced in umbels, as in the other 
species. The seeds are yellowish in color, slender, slightly curved, 
and have a pleasant anise like taste. When the stems have attained 
a sufficient size, they should be earthed . up, the same as celery, to 
blanch. If properly treated the stems will be white, cri&p and 
tender in about three weeks. When blanched they lose their bitter 
taste and are excellent for salads, possessing a sweet, pleasant, 
aromatic taste, and may be served the same way as plain celery for 
a relish. ^ 

STEWED FENNEL. 

No. 722. — Wash the Fennel in plenty of cold water and trim off 
the hard leaves. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them 
in cold water, and trim them evenly. Then cook them the same as 
celery, in No. 462. Pour over them some Butter, AUemande or 
Espagnole sauce. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 165 



Article XCI 



n-cMcu FLAVORS, ESSENCES, AND EXTRACTS. German 

Essence. Extrakt. 

No. 723. — Flavors, essences and extracts, are iised by confec- 
tioners and pastry cooks, and for various culinary purposes, to 
impart an agreeable aroma, and are purchased in liquid form. The 
best quality should always be procured. Aromatic herbs and plants 
are used in making coffee, tea, wine, juleps, and many other drinks. 
The concentrated essence of meat, game, fish, or veg.etables, when 
added to sauces and other culinary preparations gives a splendid 
flavor and is greatly relished- 

ESSENCE or VEGETABLES. 

No. 724. — Put in a saucepan four pounds of rump of beef, a 
shin of veal cut in pieces, one hen, ten carrots, eight onions, five 
turnips, two heads of lettuce, two heads of celery, a faggot of 
chervil, and half a dozen cloves. Pour one gallon of broth 
over this and let it boil. Skim it well and let it cook slowly until 
well done. Then strain the broth, and if not strong enough 
reduce it to one quart. 



Article XCII 



FLOUR. 

Farine. MeM. 

No. 725. — Flour is the finely ground meal of wheat or any other 
grain, and has many grades and varieties. It is much used for 
alimentary purposes, and the best should always be procured. The 
flour used in making bread is of a different quality than that of 
which pastry is made. Flour when dried in the oven and lightly 
colored or cooked with butter to a light brown, gives a better flavor 
to sauces. It also makes a healthful soup and is more digestible 
than when used raw. 

EEPERE. 

No. 726. — Repere is flour mixed with the white of eggs into a 
paste, and is used to make crusts stands, or any borders adhere 
to a dish. 



166 HARDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKERY. 



Article XCIII, 



Freuch GARBURE. German 

Garbure. Garbur. 

No. 727. — Garbure is an old and popular soup in Gascony, France. 
It is composed principally of vegetables, the basis always being 
gratinated. For its preparation see the Book on Soups. 



Articlk XCIV. 



GARLIC. 

Ail. Knoblauch. 

No. 728. — Garlic is a bulbous rooted plant, having a strong, pen- 
etrating odor. The bulb is composed of many smaller bulbs called 
cloves. It is not popular with Americans, although used consid- 
erably in Europe and in the Southern States. It should be 
used with moderation, as the breath of persons who eat Garlic is 
very offensive. It is used in many preparations, but can be omitted 
and replaced by using shallots or onions, when desired. Garlic, 
when used in salad, should be rubbed on a crust of bread (called 
chapon). When used for stews, etc., and left whole, its flavor will 
not be strong and penetrating as when mashed or chopped, and 
gives the preparation an appetizing and agreeable taste, especially 
in mutton stews. 

CULTURE. 

No. 729. — Prepare the ground the same as for onions. Plant the 
bulbs in drills eight inches apart, and four inches apart in rows, 
and cover them two inches deep. When the leaves turn yellow, 
take up the bulbs and dry them as you would do with onions. 

GARLIC BUTTER OR GASCONY BUTTER. 

No. 730. — Boil one dozen cloves of Garlic for ten minutes. Then 
drain them and pound them in a mortar with half a pound of but- 
ter. Add a little nutmeg and a pinch of red pepper, and when well 
mixed, rub it through a fine sieve and keep it in a cool place. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 167 

CHAPON FOR SALAD DRESSING. 

No. 731. — This is principally used when dressing endives or 
dandelion for salad, bnt may be used in all green salads to give it a 
Garlic flavor. Cut a crust of bread the size of half a dollar, rub it 
with the clove of Garlic and mix it in with the salad. 

PUREE OF GARLIC. 

No. 732. — Peel one dozen Garlic bulbs and parboil them in plenty 
of water lightly salted, until they are cooked. Then drain them 
and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Set it on a 
brisk fire to reduce the moisture. Season with salt and a pinch of 
red pepper and rub them through a fine sieve. Put the puree in a 
saucepan and add a few spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. 
Before serving, add a piece of butter. 

Note. — This puree shoixlcl only be made when ordered specially. 



JVrticle XCV. 



French GHERKIN. German 

A chars ou Cornkhon. Essiggurke, or Pfefftrgurke. 

No. 733. — The Gherkin is a native of the West Indies and is not 
a cucumber proper, but is a little rough, prickly fruit of compara- 
tively small size, with a regular oval formation. It grows on a 
pretty vine, having leaves similar to the watermelon, and is princi- 
pally grown for pickling. It is seldom used at the table in its raw 
state. In America small cucumbers are used, and when pickled are 
called Gherkins. See Cucumbers, Article LXXYI. 



Articlk XCV I 



GINGER. 

Gingembre. . Ingiver. 

No. 734. — Ginger is an aromatic plant, a native of Hindostan, 
and is cultivated in all parts of India and China. The root is the 
portion in which the virtues of the plant reside. After the roots 



168 HAKDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

are gathered and cleansed tliey are scalded in boiling water, to 
prevent germination, and are then rapidly dried. This is the ordinary 
*black ginger, most of which comes from Calcutta, and is called East 
India Ginger. In Jamaica another variety is prepared by selecting 
the best roots, depriving them of their epidermis and drying them 
carefully in the sun. This is the highly valued white Ginger, 
:generally called Jamaica Ginger. A preserve is made from Ginger 
by selecting the young roots, depriving them of their cortical 
covering and boiling them in syrup. This is imported from the 
East and West Indies, and from China. When good it is translucent 
and tender. The odor of Ginger is aromatic and penetrating, the 
taste spicy, pungent, hot, and biting. These properties gradually 
diminish and are ultimately lost by exposure. It is used by pastry 
cooks, and confectioners, in putting up spiced preserves and fruits. 
Pieces of Ginger that are light and friable, worm-eaten or very 
fibrous, should be rejected. Ginger is often adulterated with rice- 
starch, flour-ginger, brick dust, chalk, capsicum, and mustard. 
Ginger is a grateful stimulant and carminative, and is often given 
in dyspepsia, flatulent colic, and the feeble state of the alimentary 
canal attendant upon atonic gout. 



Articlk XCVII, 



French GLOBE CUCUMBER. German 

Concombre des Propfettes. Kugelgurke. 

No. 735. — The Globe Cucumber is a tender annual plant and is 
said to have originated in Arabia. The fruit is round and small, 
being thickly set with rigid bristles. In its green state it is 
generally pickled and can be prepared the same as ordinary cucum- 
bers. Globe Cucumbers are not generally preferred to the ordinary 
kind. 



ArTICIvK XCVIII. 



GOOSEFOOT, OR WHITE QUINOA, 

Anserine, Kiehehraut. 

No. 736. — Is an annual plant propagated from seeds, and is from 
the southern part of the United States. There are three varieties : The 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 169 

white, the red, and the black. The white seed is preferred. The stem 
is five feet high with pale green leaves. The flowers have a whitish 
color and are produced in clusters. The seeds are small, of a 
yellowish-white color, resembling the millet. The leaves are used 
the same as greens. The seeds are used the same as common wheat, 
and for medicinal purposes. 

CULTURE. 

No. 737. — If grown in good soil the plant will produce an abun- 
dance of foliage. Sow it in May, in drills four feet apart, and as it. 
grows, thin out gradually a foot apart in the rows. 



Article XCIX. 



French GRAHAM FLOUR. German 

Graham Farine. Graham 3Jehl. 

No. 738. — Graham Flour is taken from the name of Sylvester 
Graham, a lecturer on dietetics, and is merely unbolted wheat. It 
is used in making bread, pastry and gruels, which will be described 
in the book on Pastry. 

GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES. 

No. 739. — Put one pound of Indian meal in a bowl and add one pint 
of warm water and two quarts of cold milk. Mix with this one pound 
of Graham Flour to make a light batter. Then add one ounce of 
dissolved compressed yeast and a large spoonful of molasses. Mix 
it "well together, cover it with a towel and let it rest over night. In 
the morning add a handful of white flour, a little salt, a spoonful of 
melted butter, a pinch of soda, and a little water, if necessary, to 
make a light batter. Cook it the same as Buckwheat Cakes, No. 
268. 



Article C 



HERBS. 

Herbe. Krauter. 

No. 740. — No garden is complete without a few Herbs for culinary 
or medicinal purposes, and care should be taken to harvest them 



170 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

properly. This should be done on a dry day, just before they come 
into full bloom. They should then be dried and packed away 
closely. 

CULTURE. 

No. 741. — Sow them in spring in shallow drills, one foot apart, 
and when well up thin out or transplant them to a proper distance 
apart. 

FINE HERBS FOR CULINARY PURPOSES. 

COOKED FINE HERBS. 

No. 742. — Chop one white onion finely, or use half an onion and 
half a shallot, as may be required. Put them in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter, cover the pan, and let them cook slowly, (not letting 
them get browned.) When they are cooked, add some finely-chopped 
parsley and some finely-chopped mushrooms (trufiles if needed), and 
let them cook until the moisture is reduced. Then add a spoonful 
of veal glaze and put it away in an earthen bowl for future use. 

FINE HERBS RAW. 

No. 743. — These comprise parsley, chives, fennel, tarragon, 
chervil, shallots and onions being used separately or mixed, as may 
be required. 

DUXELLE. 

No. 744. — Prepare Duxelle the same as you would cooked fine 
herbs, and when cooked add two spoonfuls of reduced Allemande 
sauce. For a brown Duxelle use a reduced Espagnole sauce. 

FINE HERB SAUCE. 

No. 745. — Chop one large onion finely and put it in a saucepan 
with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly, and then add a handful of 
finely chopped fresh mushrooms. Cover the saucepan and let them 
cook until the moisture is reduced. Then add a pint of Allemande 
or Espagnole sauce, letting it boil slowly for twenty minutes. Then 
skim it and add some finely chopped parsley. 

DRY HERBS. 

No. 746. — These are Herbs that have been cut and dried. Some 
are used whole, while with others only the leaves or flowers are 
used. They are used to aromatize certain culinary dishes, and also 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 171 

for medicinal purposes, Wlien pulverized tliey are used as spices. 
Tlie kinds mostly used, which should always be kept on hand, are 
as follows: Basil Sweet, Bene, Borage, Burnet, Caraway Seed, 
Catnip, Cicely Sweet, Dill Seed, Sweet Fennel, Sweet Marjoram, 
Summer Savory, Sage, Thyme, etc. 



ArTICIvK CI. 



French HOLLYHOCK, OR ROSE MALLOW. German 

Roses Tremlere. Rosenpappel. 

No. 747. — Remove the flower from the stem before they are 
developed, then dry them thoroughly and put them in boxes in a 
dry place, free from dirt. Use them for for diet drinks (tisanes) as 
in Article LXXXII. 



Article CI I 



H003UNG, OR OOSUNG. 

Oosung. Adsung. 

No. 748. — This is a lettuce-like plant from China, which is not 
cultivated much in this country, but is well known on the Pacific 
Coast. The succulent stem is the part used. This is divested of 
the outer rind, then boiled in water lightly salted and dressed with 
Butter or HoUandaise sauce. It may also be used in soups and 
sauces the same as okra. The cultivation is the same as that of 
lettuce. 



ArticivK cm 



HOPS. 

Houplon. Hoijfen. 

No. 749. — Hops are considered a native product of this country, 
and are found in all parts of the United States. The roots are 
perennial, but the stems are annual. The bearing and fertile 



172 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

flowers are produced on separate plants, the former being very 
numerous, and panipulated. The fertile flowers are generally 
cemented together, or form a collection of small scales which are 
more or less covered with a fine yellow powder called Lupalin. 
The plant is principally cultivated for its flowers, which are largely 
used by manufacturers of malt liquors. The young shoots are cut 
in the spring, and used for culinary purposes, when they are five 
or six inches high. They are eaten as a salad, or are prepared the 
same as asparagus, which they somewhat resemble in taste. They 
are recommended by physicians for persons having nervous debility. 

BOILED HOPS WITH SAUCE. 

No. 750. — Cook the stems the same as asparagus, and serve them 
with Cream or Hollandaise sauce. They are good to use on "fast" 
days, and when cold they are mixed with other vegetables for salad; 

STEWED HOPS, WITH SAUCE. 

No. 751. — Take some young stems and cut them in pieces about 
one inch long, all of equal size. Then peel them and as you pre- 
pare them put them in cold acidulated water. Put a saucepan, con- 
taining some light salted water, on the fire. Add a little vinegar 
and when it boils add the Hops. When they are cooked drain them 
and then dry them on a napkin. Then put them in a saucepan with 
s. piece of butter and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch 
■of sugar. Toss them over the fire and when warmed add a few 
spoonfuls of Allemaude sauce. Before serving add a piece of but- 
ter, the juice of one lemon and some fiuelv chopped parsley, tossing 
them well over until the butter is melted. Garnish it with small 
pieces of toast. 

FRIED HOPS. 

No. 752, — "When the Hops are prepared as in No. 751, drain them 
and then dry them on a napkin. Then parboil them for five min- 
utes, after which immerse them in cold water and dry them on a 
napkin. Then put them in an earthen bowl, add the juice of a 
lemon, and season them with salt and pepper. Set them aside for 
awhile, and when ready for use drain them, flour them lightly and 
put them in a frying batter. Take them out of the batter one at a 
time, put them in the frying pan in hot lard and fry them. When 
cooked drain them, season with salt and pepper, and serve them on 
a napkin. 

Note. —They should be fried in a frying pan (not too many at a time) , the same as oyster plants. 
They may be fried by simply dipping them in beaten eggs and then rolling them in flour. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 173- 



Article CIV. 



HOARHOUND. 

Marruhe. Andorn^ 

No. 753. — Hoarliound is a perennial herb witli a strong aromatic 
odor and a bitter, pungent taste. It is a tonic and enters largely 
into the composition of cough syrups and lozenges, being princi- 
pally used by confectioners and for medicinal purposes. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 754. — It will thrive in any soil, but will be stronger if grown 
in light, poor soil. 



Articlk CV. 



HORSE-RADISH. 

Rcdfort. Meerettig.- 

No. 755. — Horse-radish is a plant having a root of a pungent 
taste, which when grated is much used as a condiment. There are 
two varieties, the wild and the cultivated. The latter kind is the 
best, attaining a large brown colored root, the flesh of which is 
white. It has a burning spicy taste, and is used both raw and 
cooked. It is grated and served as a relish, or in sauces^ and is 
also very agreeable to eat with boiled beef. 

CULTUKE. 

No. 756. — The best method of growing Horse-radish is from the 
little roots, four or five inches in length, and not from the crowns. 
The small roots will produce good radish fit for use in one season's 
growth. Plant a set with the small end down, where the slanting cut 
is, and so that the top will be two inches under the soil. It can remain 
in the ground until very late in the autumn, and can be bedded, or a 
portion can remain in the ground until spring. A dozen roots will 
furnish all that will be needed for family use for a life time, as it 
constantly increases, and the only danger is that it will spread too 
fast and become troublesome. It is best, therefore, to plant it in 
some corner of the garden where it can grow without injuring other 
plants. 



174 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

HORSE-RADISH FOR A RELISH. 

No. 757. — Scrape and grate the roots, put them into an earthen 
bowl and moisten them with a little wine vinegar. It is best to 
prepare it fresh every day. It creates an appetite, and is excellent 
with boiled beef. If it is to be kei^t for use, put up in tightly- 
corked bottles. 

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE. 

No. 758. — Scrape and grate one root. Have in a saucepan one 
pint of Cream sauce, and when it boils add the Horse-radish, cover 
the pan and let it simmer on the side of the fire for fifteen minutes. 
Then rub it through a fine sieve into a saucepan, and add a piece 
of butter and a piece of meat glaze. 

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE WITH APPLES. 

No. 759. — Scrape and grate one root apd chop it finely. Put one 
pint of Apple sauce in a saucepan. Then add the Horse-radish 
and reduce the sauce to one-quarter of its quantity on the fire. 
Then rub it through a fine sieve into an earthen bowl. Add the 
juice of one orange to it, and serve it cold. 

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE, WITH CREAM. 

No. 760. — Scrape and grate one root, chop it finely and put it 
into an earthen bowl, with the same quantity of bread crumbs. Add 
three spoonfuls of cream and one of sour cream, a teaspoonful of 
powdered sugar, a little vinegar and some salt. Mix them all well 
together. 

Note.— Make it one hour before using it and serve it with hot or cold roasted meat. 
HORSE-RADISH BUTTER. 

No. 761. — Scrape and grate one root, put it into a mortar with 
half a pound of butter, and pound it into a paste. Then rub it 
through a fine sieve and keep it in a cool place for use. 

HORSE-RADISH VINEGAR. 

No. 762. — Grate half a pound of Horse-radish and put it into an 
earthen jar, with two ounces of sugar. Pour two quarts of wine or 
cider vinegar over it, and cover the jar tightly. In ten days strain 
it and filter it, then put it in bottles and cork them well. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 175 



Artici.K CVI. 



HYSSOP. 

Hysrqoe. Isop. 

No. 763. — Hysso]-) is a hardy perennial plant, having an aromatic 
flavor and a warm, pungent taste. It is a stimulant and expecto- 
rant, and is used in asthma and chronic catarrli. The flowerina- 
summits and leaves, when dried, are the parts used for making tea, 
etc. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 764. — Sow them in a dry, sandy soil, and thin them out to 
eight inches apart. 



Arxiclk CVI I 



INDIAN STAR ANISE SEED. 

Anis Etoile on Badiane. Sie.rnanis. 

No. 765. — The tree from which this seed is procured grows in 
the Phillipine Islands and in China. The natives call it Pansi- 
Pansi. The seeds give an agreeable taste to alimentary comj^ounds 
and are much used in the West India chocolates. The oil has the 
same properties as that of anise seed, but is more subtile and pene- 
trating. The Chinese eat the seeds as a relish after their repasts, 
and the natives of India make a liquor from them called Anise- 
Arak, which is largely exported to Holland, where it is also highly 
esteemed. 



Artticle: CVI 1 1 



JAPAN PEA. 

Pais Japonais. Japan Erhse. 

No. 766. — The Japan Pea is a native of Japan and the East 
Indies. The plant is strong and erect, with numerous spreading 
branches. The seed pods are small and downy, and grow abun- 
dantly in clusters over the entire plant. The seeds are small and 
round, and when ripe are of a creamy yellowish color. The seeds 



176 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

are the only part of the phint eaten, and when young are tender and 
delicate. The ripe seeds are soaked in water, the same as our com- 
mon dry white beans are. Thoy then become quite soft and tender, 
and have a pleasant nutty and oily flavor. There is a variety with 
green seeds, which is considered superior to the yellow seeded. 
They thrive best in the Southern States in this countrj^ Prepare 
and cook them the same as our common peas. 

CULTURE. 

No. 767. — The plant is raised from seed and requires the entire 
season for its development. Sow the seeds as soon as the ground 
is warm, in drills twenty inches apart, and drop the seeds twelve 
inches apart in the drills, covering them with three-fourths of an 
inch of soil. 



Article CIX. 



French JASMINE. German 

Jasmin. Jasmin. 

No. 768. — The flowers of the Jasmine are use by pastry cooks 

and confectioners for flavoring purposes. They are dried and put 
into bottles with spirits of wine. 



Article CX. 



JUNIPER. 

Genievre. Wachholderbeere. 

No. 769. — The Juniper berry is the fruit of the Juniper tree. It 
is used for seasoning sour kraut and in cooking ham. It is also 
used by distillers for certain liquors. 



ARTICIvB CXI. 



KALE, OR BORECOLE. 

Chou-vert. Bliltter-Kohl. 

No. 770. — Kale or Borecole are general terms applied to those 
classes of cabbages which do not form heads. Some of the vari- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 177 

eties are the most tender and delicate, of any of the cabbage 
species. They are hardy, and improve when exposed to a light 
frost. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 771. — They may be sown as late as December in the North- 
ern States. They will grow out during the winter in the South, 
without protection, and are treated like the winter cabbages. If 
they are cut when slightly frozen, thaw them out in cold water 
before boiling them. 

TALL GEEEN CUELED SCOTCH. 

No. 772. — This is a hardy variety, which is improved by a mod- 
erate frost. It is about two feet high, wath an abundance of dai-k 
green curled leaves. It stands the winter in the Middle States 
withouit any protection. 

GEEMAN DWAEF, PUEPLE. 

No. 773. — This is a dwarf compact plant, composed of a mass of 
large, finely frilled leaves, of a deep purple color. It is tender and 
of excellent quality. 

GEEMAN DWAEF, GEEEN. 

No. 774. — This is a smooth leaved sort that is very popular in the 
South, where if sown in the fall it needs no protection, growing 
vigorously all the winter.* It is not equal to the other varieties for 
use in the North. 

DWAEF EEFUET. 

No. 775. — This is a fine curled variety of a yellowish green color, 
that grows very close to the ground. 

cottagee's. 

No. 776. — A valuable variety of excellent flavor. It grows about 
one foot high, and the leaves are of a rich green color, curled and 
feathered to the ground. 

IL\LE, WITH CEEAM. 

No. 777. — Wash and trim three heads of Kale. Boil them in 
water, lightly salted, until tender, then immerse them in cold water,, 
12 



178 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

drain and press them dry. Then chop them finely and put them 
into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper 
;and nutmeg, add a little cream, reduce it to its proper consistency, 
^and serve it. 

KALE FOE GEEENS, WITH SALT POEK OE BACON. 

Ko. 778. — Kale is much used for greens with salt pork, bacon or 
any other salt meats. Cook the greens with the meats or separate- 
ly, chop them coarsely and serve them with the meats. 

Note.— The Kale can also be used, when stewed, in any way that cabbage is used. 



ARTICIvB CXI I. 



trench LAVENDER. German 

Lavavde. Lavendel. 

No. 779. — This is a hardy perennial, aromatic plant, common to 
the south of Europe. The flower yields an oil used in medicine 
and perfumery. The Spike-Lavender yields a coarser oil that is used 
in the arts and for the distillation of Lavender Water, or is dried and 
used to perfume linen. The flowers should be picked before they 
are fully expanded, and dried quickly. They are also distilled, and 
so is the oil from the flower, bearing its name. 



ARTTICIvE CXI 1 1 



LEEK. 

Poireau. Lauch. 

No. 780. — The Leek is a hardy biennial plant of the Onion family. 
It is, however, without a proper bulb, having, in the place of this 
a cylindrical body of succulent leaves, which are eatable. The 
small bulb is oblong and tunicated, the lower blanched portion 
being the part eaten. By some people it is preferred to the onion, 
when young. It is used principally for flavoring and as an ingre- 
dient in soups. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 179 

CULTUEE. 

No. 781. — Dig the trendies eight inches deep and make the soil, 
at the bottom, rich and fine. Sow the seeds early in spring and 
cover them lightly with earth. Thin them to sis inches apart, and 
when the plants are twelve inches high gather the leaves together 
and fill the trench so as to blanch the lower part of the plants. 
Store them in the cellar or out of doors (as you would celery), 
before severe weather commences. 

LONDON FLAG. 

No. 782. — This variety is more generally cultivated in this country 
than in any other. It is hardy and of good quality. 

LITTLE MONTAGNE. 

No. 783. — This is one of the smallest of the Leek species. The 
stems are short and slender. 

PROLIFEROUS LEEK. 

No. 784. — This is a vigorous variety of the common Leek. The 
bulb will remain sound several weeks after they have ripened. 

YELLOW POITON. 

No. 785. — The blanched portion of the stem is of a yellowish 
white color, and is more tender than that of any other variety, and 
of a remarkably large size. 

LARGE ROUEN. 

No. 786. — The stem is rather short, with very thick dark green 
leaves. It is considered one of the good kinds. 

SOUP PUREE OF LEEKS, VIENNOISE. 

No. 787. — Slice fine the white part of one dozen good sized 
Leeks, and put them into a saucepan, with a piece of butter. Frv 
them lightly (not long enough to get browned), and then add one 
or two quarts of broth. When they are well cooked add three 
quarts of thickened chicken or veal broth. Season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar, and add a faggot of parsley 
garnished. Let it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes. Then take 
out the faggot, skim off the grease, rub the soup through a fine 



180 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

sieve, and put it back in the saucepan to keep warm. Before 
serving add one pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of eight 
raw eggs and a piece of butter. Stir it until the butter is melted. 
Then add some fine chopped chives, and serve it with fried bread 
crumbs separately. 



ArxicIvK CXIV. 



French LENTIL, OR LENS. German 

Lentilles. LinbC. 

No. 788. — This is a hardy annual plant, with an erect and angu- 
lar branching stem, one foot and a half high. The pods are some- 
what quadrangular, and enclose one or two lens-like seeds, the size 
and color varying in different varieties. The Lentil is a vegetable 
of the greatest antiquity, and was much esteemed in olden times by 
those making long journeys. The seeds are used and prepared the 
same as beans, and for soups and purees, they are prepared the 
same as dried peas. 

CULTURE. 

No. 789. — Sow the seeds in May, in drills the same as green peas. 
They succeed best in dry, warm, light soil. 

COMMON LENTIL. 

No. 790. — -This variety is considered superior to the large LentiL 
The seeds are aiucli smaller and are greatly esteemed. 

GREEN LENTIL, 

No. 791. — This somewhat resembles the small Lentil, the princi- 
pal distinction being in the color, which is green, spotted and 
marbled with black. 

LARGE LENTIL. 

No. 792. — The seed is white or cream colored. It is one of the 
most productive of all varieties, though inferior in quality. 

SMALL LENTIL. 

No. 793. — This is rather a late variety, of a close branching habit, 
being very prolific, and a variety much used by the French. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 181 

LENTILS, MAITKE d' HOTEL. 

No. 794. — Wasli one quart of Lentils in lukewarm water and put 
them into a saucepan with three quarts of water, a little salt, two 
onions, two carrots and a faggot of celery. Put them on the fire to 
boil, skim them and let them boil slowly until tender. Then 
drain off the moisture, take out the carrots, onions and celery, 
and add six ounces of butter and some fine chopped parsley, and 
season it to taste. Toss them in the pan well together, adding a 
few spoonfuls of the broth, if needed. 

FRICASSEE OF LENTILS. 

No. 795. — Prepare and cook the Lentils as in No. 794, and when 
tender drain them. Put into a saucepan one chopped onion, with 
four ounces of butter, and a spoonful of flour. Let it cook slowly 
until nicely browned. Then add some of the broth of the Lentils, 
to make a light sauce. Let it boil for fifteen minutes, and then add 
the Lentils. Season them with salt and pepper, and let them simmer 
for fifteen minutes; then serve. 

PUREE OF LENTILS FOR GARNITURE, CONDE. 

No. 796. — When the Lentils are cooked, as in No. 794, take out 
the carrots, onions, and celery. Then drain them and rub them 
through a fine sieve. Put the Puree in a flat saucepan and add four 
spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Reduce it to its consistency, and 
before serving add a piece of butter. 

SOUP, PUREE OF LENTILS. 

No. 797. — Cook two quarts of Lentils, as in No. 794, adding half 
broth to the water. When thoroughly cooked take out the carrots, 
onions, and celery, and rub it through a fine sieve. If too thick add 
the qua;itity of broth necessary. Put it back in the saucepan, 
stirring it until it boils. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil 
slowly for twenty-five minutes. Before serving skim it well, add a 
piece of butter and serve with small fried bread crumbs. A ham 
bone, or piece of salt pork, may be boiled with the soup. 

SOUP, PUREE OF LENTILS, CONTE. 

No. 798. — Wash two quarts of Lentils and put them in a saucepan 
with one gallon of water. When it boils skim it. Then add two 
onions (in which stick six cloves), a faggot of parsley garnished 



182 haedee's amebican cookery. 

with celery, and two carrots. Season with salt, put on the cover 
and let it boil slowly until tender. Then take out the faggot of 
parsley and the carrots and onions, and rub the soup through a fine 
sieve. Put it back into the saucepan and add game broth to make 
it of the desired consistency. Set it on the fire, stirring it with a 
wooden spoon until it boils. Then let it boil slowly for half an 
hour. Skim it well. Prepare separately four heads of braized 
celery, and when cooked cut them into scallops, adding them 
to the soup, when it is ready to serve. 

PUREE OP LENTILS, HUNTERS' STYLE. 

No. 799. — Prepare the soup as in No. 798, adding a piece of bacon 
while cooking the soup. When it is done take out the bacon and 
the vegetables, and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Make 
separately a game broth of quails or partridges. Dilute the puree 
with this broth, letting it boil slowly for half an hour. Skim it 
well and add the breasts of the birds, cut into small square pieces, 
and serve with small fried bread crumbs. 



ArTICIvK CXV. 



French LETTUCE. German 

Laitue. Latlichsalat. 

No. 800. — Lettuce is a hardy annual plant of Asiatic origin, and 
is always grown from seed. It may be had at all seasons of the 
year, but its quality is not always the same. There is no vegetable 
more generally used than Lettuce, yet few people know how appe- 
tizing it is when brought to the table fresh and in an unwilted con- 
dition. It ranks as one of the best green salads, and is much used 
with chicken and other salads. Lettuce is also used as a vegetable 
prepared the same as spinach, and when stuffed, and is used as a 
garniture for soups and meats. There are a number of varieties of 
Lettuce. 

CULTURE. 

No. 801. — The quality of Lettuce depends largely upon rapid and 
vigorous growth, and to secure that we need very rich, mellow soil, 
frequent surface cultivation, and an abundant supply of water. 
Por the earliest crop sow the seed under glass, in March, and thin 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 183 

out the plants to prevent crowding. If you intend to mature tlie 
plants under glass, keep the beds quite close, and water it frequently 
and abundantly with liquid manure, and keep it well shaded during 
sunny days. If the plants are to be set in the open ground, give 
them all the air possible, without freezing them, and harden them 
off by full exposure and the withdrawal of water before transplanting. 
The plants should be set out as soon as a warm spot can be made 
very rich and mellow. When they are set out, sow the seeds in 
drills, fourteen inches apart, and thin them out, as wanted for the 
table, until they stand eighteen inches apart. Hoe them frequently, 
and water them when dry. The Cos varieties should be tied up 
about ten days before using, in order to blanch the inner leaves. 

EARLY TENNIS BALL. 

No. 802. — This is the best variety of head Lettuce for growing 
under glass, being very hardy and having thick, crisp, and tender 
leaves. It forms a compact head under glass, but when in the open 
air, unless planted very early, it is liable to be loose and open. 

BLACK SEEDED SIMPSON. 

No. 803. — The leaves of this variety are very large and form a 
compact mass, rather than a distinct head. They are of superior 
quality, being thin and tender, and of a light green color. Their 
color prevents any wilting of the plant being noticed, and as a 
consequence, it is a popular market variety. 

SIMPSON EARLY CURLED. 

No. 804. — This is one of the best early varieties for family use. 
All of the leaves tend to produce a large loose head. The leaves 
are dark green, beautifully crimped, and are tender and crisp. 

EARLY BOSTON CURLED. 

No. 805. — This variety has numerous large dark green leaves, 
that grow close together, the edges being deeply frilled, so that the 
whole plant forms around mass, closely resembling a bunch of moss. 

EARLY PRIZE HEAD (feRRY's). 

No. 806. — This is the best Lettuce known. It forms a mammoth 
hardy plant, of which even the outer leaves are crisp and tender, 



"184 haeder's ameeican cookery. 

"remaining so througliout the season. It is slow to run up to seed. 
-Its flavor is delicious, and it is much used in soups, etc. 

HANSON. 

No. 807. — This is a very fine heading variety, of large size, and 
stands the sun better than any other sort. The heads are large, 
solid, sweet, tender, and crisp throughout, and are devoid of any 
bitter taste. 

DEACON. 

No. 808. — This plant is small, having very thick and smooth dark 
green leaves, which are crisp and tender. 

EARLY CURLED SILESIA. 

No. 809. — An early variety of very strong growth, which does not 
form a head, but is the best kind for cutting and bunching when 
young. The leaves are large and wrinkled and of a light 3^ellow 
color. It resembles the Cos varieties in quality. 

FEANKFOET HEAD. 

No. 810. — A dark green curled variety with close round heads, 
which when opened are finely blanched and very crisp. It remains 



in head a long time. 



LAEGE DEUMHEAD. 



No. 811. — The head is remarkably large and compact, though 
somewhat flattened. It is crisp and tender and one of the finest 
summer varieties. Its color is pale green without and white in the 
center. 



PHILADELPHIA BUTTEE. 

No. 812. — This is a very early variety, desirable for forcing and 
ior early planting out of doors, but it does not stand the sun well. 
It is medium in size, having a compact head, the leaves being 
smooth and thick and of a bluish-green color. 

BROWN DUTCH. 

No. 813. — This is an old and hardy, variety, and always forms a 
large, solid head, which is somewhat coarse looking. The leaves 
are large and thick, of a deejD green color outside, but beautifully 
blanched within. They are exceedingly sweet, tender, and of good 
flavor. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 185 

GREEN FRINGED. 

No. 814. — All ornamental variety of exceeding beaut}", but 
inferior in quality. The inside of the leaves is white, the edges a 
light green, delicately fringed and crimped. Its handsome 
appearance makes it well worthy of cultivation for table decoration 
alone. 

WHITE PARIS COS. 

No. 815. — This is a large hardy variety, which takes long in 
ranning to seed, and is considered by many to be far better than 
the other varieties. The heads are long and upright, with oblong 
leaves, that are tender, brittle, and highly flavored. 

SALAMANDER. 

No. 816. — This is the best variety for summer use, forming large, 
compact heads. It is light green in color outside, and white inside. 
Its great advantage is that it will stand drought and heat, and will 
remain longer in heads than the other varieties. 

LETTUCE BRAIZED, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 817. — Select one dozen solid heads of Lettuce and trim off 
the outer leaves. Wash the Lettuce in plenty of cold water and 
then drain them. Parboil them for five minutes, then immerse 
them in cold water. After this press each head in the hand well, 
arrange them on a napkin and trim them. Next line a deep flat 
saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, on which you will put the 
heads of Lettuce side by side. Season with salt, pepper and nut- 
meg, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, a 
sprig of thyme and two onions having three cloves stuck in each. 
Cover each head of Lettuce with slices of fat pork and moisten 
them with stock broth. Cover the saucepan and let this boil once 
and then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly until done. 
Then drain them on a sieve and sponge off the grease with a nap- 
kin. Then put them in a saucepan with three spoonfuls of half 
glaze, and set them in the oven. When glazed serve them with a 
reduced Espagnole sauce. 

LETTUCE BRAIZED, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 818. — Prepare the Lettuce as in No. 817, and when cooked 
drain them on a napkin and sponge off the grease. Then dish them 
up and pour over them some Allemande sauce, reduced with cream. 



186 Hardee's American cookery. 

stuffed lettuce. 

No. 819. — Prepare one dozen heads of Lettuce as in No. 817, and 
when parboiled immerse them in cold water, then press them in 
the hands and dry them. Put them on a towel on the table, spread 
out the leaves of each head and season with salt, .pepper, and 
nutmeg. Add in the middle of each head some forced meat of veal 
(Godiveau) flavored with cooked fine herbs. Put the Lettuce in 
shape again, trim them and arrange them in a deep flat saucepan, 
lined with thin slices of fat pork. Moisten them with veal gravy, 
then let them boil, after which cover the saucepan and set it in the 
oven. Sprinkle them with the gravy occasionally, so they will glaze 
nicely. When cooked dish them up, strain off the gravy, take off 
the grease, and serve the gravy with them. 

LETTUCE STUFFED AND FRIED. 

No. 820. — Prepare the Lettuce the same as in No. 819, and when 
cooked drain them on a sieve, and sponge off the grease with a 
napkin. Then bread them and dip them in beaten eggs, and then 
bread them again in fresh bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard and 
serve them on a napkin, with a garniture of fried parsley. 

LETTUCE WITH CREAM. 

No. 821. — Trim off the outer leaves of one dozen heads of Lettuce 
and wash the heads in cold water several times. Then put them 
in a saucepan, with boiling water lightly salted, and let them cook 
for ten minutes on a brisk fire. Then immerse them in cold water, 
drain them in a colander and press them dry in the hands. Then 
chop them fine. Put sis ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when 
melted add two spoonfuls of flour, and let it cook to a light brown. 
Then add the Lettuce, stirring it in well, and season with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg. Add in slowly a pint of cream and let it cook 
for ten minutes. Before serving, garnish it with hard boiled eggs, 
cut in quarters, and with toasted bread, cut in fancy shapes. 

LETTUCE, WITH GRAVY. 

No. 822. ^Proceed the same as in No. 821, but in place of cream 
add some veal gravy or a good broth. Garnish with poached eggs 
or toast. 

LETTUCE FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 823. — When Lettuce is to be used for garnishing joints or 
large entrees, use the braized or stuffed Lettuce as in Nos. 817, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 187 

818, 819 and 820. When it is used for garnishing small entrees 
and broiled meats, use Lettuce with cream or gravy, as in Nos. 821 
and 822. When it is used as a salad garniture select the inner 
leaves and steep them in cold water until ready for use. Keep the 
hearts to place on the top of the salad, or cut them in fine shreds 
and garnish around the dish, alternating with eggs. 

LETTUCE SALADS. 

No. 824. — Trim off the outer leaves of the Lettuce, wash the 
heads in cold water, trim the leaves, and then drain them on a 
salad strainer. Before using, drain them on a napkin, being- 
careful not to press the leaves. Put them in a salad bowl and 
season with salt, pepper, sweet oil and vinegar. 

Note. — Dress the salad only when ready for use. Germans generally add some sliced young 
onions and a mustard dressing. This is made by mashing the yolk of a hard boiled egg in a salad 
bowl, diluting it with oil and vinegar, and adding mustard. Then mix It well together and season 
with salt and pepper. Pour this mixture over the Lettuce, and mix it well with a wooden spoon and 
fork in a careful manner. Americans, especially in New England, dress the salad with sugar, vinegar, 
and cream. In the South they use oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, or with a Mayonnaise dressing, and 
garnished with hard boiled eggs. The French add some fine chopped chervil and tarragon, and 
occasionally a clove of garlic, chopped fine, or some garlic rubbed on a crust of bread (Chapon). 
The Spaniards and Mexicans add some fine sliced green peppers, with sliced green onions. The 
English use a dressing made with the yolks of hard boiled eggs, diluted with oil, vinegar, and the 
juice of onions or shallots, and seasoned with salt and pepper. For a family dinner dish up the 
salad plain, with hard boiled eggs separately, or as a garniture. It requires an expert to dress a salad 
well. When ready for the salad the hostess should dress it, or if one of the company is no*ed as a 
good salad dresser, she should request him to dress it. 

LETTUCE WITH CONSOMME (gAEBURE). 

GRATINATED CRUSTS WITH LETTUCE. 

No. 825. — Trim one dozen heads of Lettuce, wash them well in 
cold water and then parboil them for ten minutes. Then immerse 
them in cold water and press them dry in the hands. Arrange the 
leaves nicely and tie them so they will keep their shape. Now 
prepare a deep, fiat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, 
some trimmings of veal, four sliced carrots and one sliced onion. 
Then put the Lettuce in and add a faggot of parsley garnished with 
one bay leaf and three cloves. Cover it all with thin slices of fat 
pork and moisten with enough broth to cover it. Set it on the fire 
to boil. Then cover the saucepan and set it on one side to cook 
slowly until tender. Then take them out carefully, place them on 
a clean board, take off the strings and cut them in two or three 
parts, lengthwise. Put in a deep baking dish some thin slices of 
toasted bread, then a layer of Lettuce, and continue this way until 
the dish is full. Season with salt and pepper. Then strain off' the 



188 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

gravy that they were cooked in, and pour it over the Lettuce aud 
toast to cover it. Then set the dish in an oven to cook slowly 
until nicely browned. Before serving, take oif the grease and 
.serve Avith a soup tureen of consomme. 

lettuce watek foe invalids. 

No. 826. — Wash and clean three heads of Lettuce, and soak 
tliem in one quart of boiling water for one hour. Then strain it 
through a napkin. Season with a little sugar, and take a cupful 
one hour before each meal for several days. It is recommended for 
those whose stomachs are deranged and also for those afflicted with 
nervousness. 

PEESEEVED LETTUCE WHOLE. 

No 827. — Select three dozen fresh picked heads of Lettuce and 
trim off the outer leaves. Wash them well in cold water, and then 
parboil them for ten minutes in water lightly salted. Then immerse 
them in cold water and dry them on a napkin. Then arrange them 
in a flat saucepan and moisten them with enough broth to cover 
them. Let them cook until tender, and then drain them on a napkin. 
■Cut out the stalks, and then cut the heads of Lettuce in half, 
lengthwise, laying the tops over in the middle close together; so 
they will not curl outward. Then put them in square quart tin 
cans, the same way that you would arrange asparagus. Cover them 
^dth water lightly salted, solder on the covers and boil the tin cans 
in a hot water bath for two hours. 

PEESEEVED LETTUCE, IN CANS. 

No. 828. — Prepare them as endives are prepared. See Article 
LXXXVII, No. 828. 

LETTUCE WHEN USED IN VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

No. 829. — Use the green tender leaves and wash them well to 
ieep them green. Then cut them in shreds or with a cutter and 
put them in boiling water to cook for a few minutes. After this 
immerse them in cold water, then drain them and put them in 
soup when ready to serve. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 189 



ARTICLK CXVI 



French LICORICK. Germau, 

Reglisse. S'dshols-Barenzuker. 

No. 830. — Licorice is a hardy perennial plant, the root of which 
abounds with a sweet juice, and is much used in demulcent compo- 
sitions. It has fleshy, creeping roots, which, when undisturbed, 
attain great length and penetrate deep into the earth. The roots 
are the only part of the plant used, and are used by porter brewers 
and confectioners and for medicinal purposes. The sweet, mucilagi- 
nous juice, which is extracted from the roots by boiling, is much 
esteemed as an emollient for coughs and colds. 

CULTURE. 

No. 831. — It is propagated by planting slips of the roots, four or 
six inches long, that have two or three buds. Plant them in March, 
as soon as the ground can be worked, eighteen inches apart in rows; 
that are three feet apart, covering them with three inches of earth. 
Every year late in autumn, when the sap has gone down and the 
leaves turned yellow, cut the old stem down with a pruning knife 
to a level with the ground. At this time the creeping stems are 
forked up and cut off close to the main stems. They are then 
preserved in sand for future planting. The roots will be ready for 
taking up three years after planting. This should be done towards 
Avinter, when the sap goes down in the roots. A trench three feet 
deep should then be dug around the roots, so they can be extracted 
without injury to them. They are then kept m sand until used. 



ArticIvE CXVII 



LIMA BEANS. 

Feve Bohue. 

No. 832. — The Lima Bean is one of the latest and most tender 
of garden beans. The stem is about ten feet high, and the leaves 
are smooth, shiny and narrow, yet comparatively long. The pods 
are about four inches long and an inch and a quarter broad, being 
flattened in shape, and containing from three to five beans. They 
are green and wrinkled when young, and of a yellowish color when. 



190 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

ripe. The pods are tougli and parchment-like in all stages of their 
growth, and are never eaten. The Beans when either green or ripe, 
are universally esteemed for their peculiar flavor and excellence. 
If gathered when suitable for use in their green state, and dried in 
the pods, they can be preserved during the winter. When required 
for use, they should be shelled, then soaked for a short time in 
clear water, and cooked the same as green beans. When they are 
treated in this manner, they will be found to be nearly as tender and 
well flavored as when freshly plucked from the plants. The Lima 
Bean seldom perfects its crop in the Northern States, as only a 
small portion of the pods attain a good size, being destroyed by 
early frost. 

CULTURE. 

No. 833. — Commence planting when the weather is settled and 
the soil is warm and in good working condition. Procure a num- 
ber of poles six feet in length and set them out three feet apart 
each way. Plant five or six Beans in each hill, covering them with 
one inch of soil and being careful to set each Bean with its germ 
downward. After they have grown for awhile and before they 
begin to run, pull up the weakest and leave but three of the most 
vigorous plants in each hill. As they increase in height they should 
be tied to the poles with a soft, fibrous material. When they have 
ascended to the tops of the poles the ends should be pinched off. 
The ends of all branches that rise above that height should also be 
treated in the same way. This prevents them from running into 
vines and tends to make them blossom earlier and bear sooner and 
more abundantly. When cultivated near the Sieva, the varieties 
readily hybridize and the Lima Bean rapidly degenerates. Plants 
grown in the Southern States are healthy and vigorous and produce 
large Beans of excellent quality. 

GREEN LIMA BEANS. 

No. 834. — This is a sub-variety of the common Lima Bean, 
differing from it principally, in the pea-green color of the seed. It 
will remain longer on the plant without becoming hard, and is 
considered more tender than other kinds. 

MOTTLED LIMA BEANS. 

No. 835. — This is also a sub-variety of the common Lima Bean. 
The seeds are of a dull white, or greenish-white color, mottled or 
clouded with purple. 

Note. — For the prepartion of Lima Beans. See Article on Beans. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 191 



ArticIvK cxviii 



FreiicU LIME TREE, OR LINDEN TREE. German 

Tilhul. Die Lind. 

No. 836. — The Liine, or Linden Tree, bears a fruit allied to the 
lemon, but smaller and more intensely sour. It is a handsome tree 
and is found in all warm climates. It has panicles of light yellow 
flowers and large cordate leaves. The flowering buds should be picked 
before the rising of the sun. They should then be peeled and dried 
and kept in a clean, cool place, free from dust. They are used for 
tisanes. 



Articlk CXIX. 



LOVAGE. 

Angelique a feuille-d' ache . Lieh stochel. 

No, 837. — Lovage is a hardy perennial plant having a hollow, 
branching stem six or seven feet high. It has smooth, deep green, 
glossy leaves, that somewhat resemble those of celery. The roots 
are large and fleshy, having a dark-brown color without and being- 
yellowish within. Both the roots and seeds are used. The roots 
are sliced and dried and are used by confectioners in that state. 
They are also used in medicine as an aromatic stimulant. 

CULTURE. 

No. 838. — Lovage requires a deep, rich, moist soil, and should 
be sown in August, or immediately after ripening. When the 
young plants have grown three inches, transplant them three feet 
apart iu each direction. When they are well established they will 
require but little care and will continvie for years. 



Article CXX. 



LUPINE. 

Lupin. Wolfshohne- 

No. 839. — Lupine is a leguminous plant, having a strong, erect, 
branching habit. It is not cultivated for food, but the white and 



192 haeder's ameeican cookery, 

yellow Lupine are grown for their farinaceous seeds. The pods 
are straight and hairy, about three inches long, and contain five or 
six large, white, flattened seeds, having a slightly bitter taste. 
They are said to possess important medicinal qualities. The yellow 
Lupine, which is a native of Sicily, is a hardy annual plant, resem- 
bling the white species. They are both grown in some parts of this 
countr}^ and when in their green state they are cut up and ploughed 
under the soil as a fertilizer. Plant them in poor, dry soil. 



Articlk CXXI 



Ficncli MACE. Jierman 

Macis. Muskalenblulhe. 

No. 840. — Mace is the second coat, or aril, which covers the nut- 
meg ; a thin and membranaceous substance, of an oleaginous 
nature and yellowish color, being in flakes, divided into many 
ramifications. It has an agreeable aromatic taste, not being as bitter 
as the nutmeg. It is much used for culinary purposes, in pastry 
and in distilling liquors, and can be obtained in flakes or ground. 

Note. — See Nutmeg Article. 



ArticIvK cxxii 



MADRAS RADISH. 

Sadis ( Madras) . Betdij ( Madras ) .. 

No. 841. — The Madras Radish is generally cultivated for its 
pods, which are sometimes twelve inches in length. They are 
solid, crisp, and tender, and when young they are used for pickling, 
and for salads, being much superior to the common radish. The 
roots are sometimes eaten whole when they are young and tender, 
but they soon become fibrous, strongly flavored and unfit for use. 
When the Madras Radish is cultivated for its pods, sow it in drills 
that are two feet apart, and thin the jDlants to nine inches apart in 
the drills. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 193 



Article CXXIII 



French MALLOW— CURLED LEAVED. German 

Mauve. Halve. 

No. 842. — Mallow is an annual plant that was introduced from 
Europe, and which grows spontaneously in gardens when once cul- 
tivated. The stems are frequently more than six feet in height. 
The leaves, which are of a rich green color, are nearly five inches 
in diameter and are smooth, lobed and beautifully frilled or curled 
on the borders. No part of the plant is considered suitable for 
food, but the beautiful leaves are used for garnishing desserts. 
Sow the seeds about the first of May, covering them with one inch 
of soil. The plant requires much space. 



Article CXXIV. 



MARANTA, OR ARROW-ROOT PLANT. 

Arrow-root. Arrow-mehl. 

No. 843. — This is a genus of plants found in tropical America, 
and some species also in India. They have tuberous roots contain- 
ing a large amount of starch, and from one species arrow-root is 
obtained. The Indians are said to employ the roots of this species 
in extracting the poison of arrows, whence the name. The fecula 
obtained is called Arrow-Eoot. The root of this plant is perennial, 
tuberous, fleshy, horizontal and scaly, and is a foot or more in 
length, having- numerous long, white fibres. It sends forth several 
tuberous jointed, curved, white stoles, the points of which some- 
times rise above the ground and become new plants. Several 
stems proceed annually from the same root, being branched and 
slender, and about four inches high. The Arrow-Eoot plant is a 
native of the West Indies, where it is largely cultivated, and its 
cultivation is also carried on in the East Indies, Africa and the 
Southern States. That from the Bermuda Islands is most esteemed, 
Jamaica furnishing the next best qualit}^. The plant is propagated 
early, by cutting off the roots. Arrow-Eoot is adulterated with 
flour from other roots, such as the Curcuma and the Tacca Oceanica 
from the Sandwich Islands. Potato flour is also used. Arrow- 
Eoot when ground, is a light, white powder, devoid of taste or 
13 



194 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

odor. It has a firm feeling when pressed between the fingers, and 
produces a faint crackling sound when rubbed. It is a pure starch, 
corresponding in its chemical properties with that of corn starch 
or potato starch. When purchased it should be free from any 
unpleasant flavor, as it is liable to get musty. Keep it in a dry 
place. 

PEEPAETION OF ITS FLOUR. 

No. 844. — The flour is prepared in the following manner: The 
roots are dug up when a year old, then washed and pounded into a 
pn.lp, which is thrown into water to separate the amylacteous from 
the fibrous portion. The fibres are removed with the hands, which 
leaves the starch suspended in the water, to which it gives a milky 
color. The milky fluid is strained through a coarse towel, and is 
allowed to stand that the flour may settle. The flour is then washed 
with fresh water and is dried afterwards in the sun. 

ITS USE. 

No. 845. — Arrow-Koot is nutritious and demulcent, and affords a 
light and easily digested article of diet for the sick and convalescent. 
It is peculiarly suited, from its demulcent properties, to those 
afflicted with complaints of the bowels and diseases of the urinary 
passages. It is much vised as food, for infants after weaning or 
when the mother's milk is insufficient. It is prepared by dissolv- 
ing it in hot water with which it forms a pearly gelatinous solution, 
and if sufficiently thick it forms a jelly-like mass when cool. A 
tablespoonf ul will contribute sufficient consistence to a pint of water. 
It should first be made into a paste with a little cold water and the 
boiling water should then be added, with brisk agitation. The 
preparation may be rendered more palatable by adding lemon juice 
and sugar, or, in extreme sickness, by addins^ wine and spices. It 
is usually prepared with milk when taken by children. 



AR.TICLK CXXV. 



French MARJORAM. German 

Marjolaine. Marjoram. 

No. 846. — Marjoram is a perennial aromatic plant, somewhat 
hardy, but not hardy enough to endure the winter in the North. 
When the plants are in bloom they are cut and dried and are used 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 195 

for flavoring salted meat and venison sonp. They are also groni^d 
and nsed in flavoring stufiings, etc. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 847. — Sow the seeds as early as possible and thin out the 
plants to ten inches apart. It is also propagated by dividing the 
roots either in spring or autumn. 

SWEET MAEJORAM. 

No. 848. — Sweet Marjoram is always treated as an annual in the 
Northern States. The plant grows low, having a branching stem 
and rounded leaves. This variety is said to have come from Portu- 
gal, and is mostly used for culinary purposes. It is highly aro- 
matic, and is used in its green and dried state. 

COMMON MAEJOKAM. 

No. 849. — This variety is perennial and is more hardy than the 
Sweet Marjoram. It is used in the same manner as the sweet 
variety. 

POT MAEJORAM. 

No. 850. — This variety is a native of Sicily. Its leaves are oval 
and comparatively smooth. It produces small purple flowers in 
spikes. It is used in the same way as the other varieties are, but 
is inferior to the Sweet Marjoram. 

WINTEE SWEET MAEJOEAM. 

No. 851. — This is a perennial variety somewhat hardy and resem- 
bling the Sweet Marjoram, being next in quality to it. The plants 
should be cut when just coming into bloom and dried well in the 
shade. 



Artict.k CXXVI. 



French MARSH MALLOW. Germau 

Guimauve. Sammdpappel. 

No. 852. — This is a plant that is common in marshes near the sea 
shore. The flowers are used for diet drinks (tisanes), and shordd 



196 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKEEY. 

be picked with care before the rising of the sun. They should then 
be dried thoroughly, and kept in a dry, dark place. 

For Marsh Mallow Syrup see Capillary Syrup, Article XXXI, No. 354. 



Article CXXVII 



FrcEcli MKLILOT, (ierman 

Melilot. Mellilot. 

No. 853. — This is a plant having yellow flowers, of a peculiar 
odor and flavor, resembling the Tonqua bean. It is put in a faggot 
when roasting or stewing rabbits or hares, to impart an agreeable 
flavor. It is also used in dairies to color cheese. 



ArtiCIvK cxxviii. 



MINT. 

Menthe. Garten Mimze. 

No. 854. — Mint is a hardy perennial aromatic plant, producing, 
by distillation, a highly odoriferous and pungent essential oil. It 
is generally cultivated in gardens, but grows naturally near brooks 
and in rich, moist soil. It is used in making sauces for flavoring, 
for medicinal purposes, for flavoring drinks, and by confectioners. 
The common or plain leaved variety is the best for general use. 
The Spear-Mint is inferior for culinary purposes, but is prettier 
for garnishing, on account of the curled foliage. 

CULTURE. 

No. 855. — It is propagated best by a division of the roots, which 
readily establish themselves wherever planted. In cultivating 
from seed, sow under glass and transplant them when the leaves 
are formed. 

MINT SAUCE, AMEEICAN STYLE. 

No. 856. — Pick one handful of green Mint leaves, wash them 
clean, dry them on a napkin and cut them tine. Put half a pint of 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 197 

good wine vinegar and half a pint of water in a bowl, and sweeten 
it to taste with light brown sugar. Then add the Mint and a little 
salt and pepper and mis the whole well together. Let it stand for 
fifteen minutes before using. This sauce is much used in this 
country and is greatly esteemed with roasted spring lamb. 

MINT SAUCE, FEENCH STYLE. 

No. 857. — Prepare it the same as in the American style, using 
warm lamb or beef gravy instead of water. 



Articlk cv:xxix. 



Frencb MOREL. German 

Morille. Morchel. 

No. 858. — In its natural state the Morel is found growing in 
orchards, in damp woods, and in moist pastures. There are 
several varieties, all of which are edible. It is about four inches 
in height and is distinguished by its white cylindrical hol- 
low, and solid smooth stem. Its cap is spherical and hollow, 
and of a dark brown or gravy color. It adheres to the stem by its 
base, and is deeply pitted over the entire surface. It is in perfec- 
tion early in the season, but should not be gathered after a rain or 
while it is wet with dew. If gathered when dry it may be preserved 
many months. The Morel is much used in its dry or fresh state, to 
heighten the flavor of stews and gravies. This mushroom is to be 
obtained from Italian warehouses and is the best variety in use in 
its dried state. 

MOEELS, POULETTE. 

No. 859. — Wash the Morels in tepid water, trim them and then 
cut the large ones in quarters. Parboil them for five minutes, then 
immerse them in cold water and afterwards drain them on a napkin. 
Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, one small onion 
and a faggot of parsley, garnished, and season them with salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg. Toss them over a brisk fire, then add four 
spoonfuls of Allemande or Cream sauce, and let them cook slowly 
for fifteen minutes. Then take out the onion and the faggot, add a 
piece of butter and the juice of one lemon, and toss the whole over 
the fire well. Then serve. 



198 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

morels, spanish style, 
No. 860. — Prepare them the same as in No. 859, using Espagnole 
«auce instead of iVllemancle or Cream sauce, and finish it by adding 
a small piece of Anchovie butter. 

MOEELS ON SKIVEES. 

No. 861. — When the Morels are cleaned and parboiled, as in No. 
'859, cut them in quarters, put them in an earthen bowl, and season 
them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Pour some clarified butter 
over them, and mix them well. Then put them on wooden skivers, 
dip them in fresh bread crumbs, and broil them on a slow fire. 
Cut ten slices of bacon in small pieces, fry them nicely, and dish 
them on a platter with the broiled Morels on top, having put the 
Morels on silver skivers before serving them. 

MOEELS FEIED. 

No. 862. — When the Morels are cleaned and parboiled, as in No. 
859, cut them in halves, put them in a saucepan, moisten them with 
broth and let them cook until reduced to a light glaze. Then season 
them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, take them out of the saucepan, 
flour them, and then fry them in hot lard. Add to the light glaze, 
two spoonfuls of mutton gravy, a piece of butter, the juice of half a 
lemon, and some fine .chopped parsley. Pour this sauce over the 
Morels and then serve. 

MOEELS, WITH GEATINATED CRUST, 

No. 863. — When the Morels are washed and parboiled as in No. 
859, cut them in scollops. Then put them in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter, one onion and a faggot of parsley garnished. Toss 
them over a brisk fire and sprinkle them with a little flour while 
tossing them. Then moisten them with white broth, let them cook 
slowly for fifteen minutes, then take out the onion and faggot of 
parsley and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Dilute the yolks 
of four raw eggs in a glass of cream and pour it over the Morels 
off of the fire, tossing them well together. Then serve them with 
gratinated crusts, the same as mushrooms. 

MOEELS FOE GAENITURE. 

No. 864. — Prepare them as in Nos. 859 and 860 with Allemande, 
Espagnole or Cream sauce. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 199 

MORELS STUFFED. 

No. 865. — Wash clean and trim them as in No. 859, parboil them 
for fifteen minutes, then immerse them in cold water and drain them 
on a napkin. Chop the trimmings and stems fine and put them in 
a saucepan with a piece of butter and two fine chopped shallots. 
Put the cover on the pan and let them cook slowly until the moist- 
ure is reduced. Then put them on a plate to get cold and add some 
cooked forced meat of chicken or veal and some fine chopped pars- 
ley. Stufi: the Morels with this preparation, sprinkle fresh bread 
crumbs over them, arrange them in a flat saucepan lined with thin 
slices of fat pork, and put a small piece of butter on each. Moisten 
them with broth and set them in the oven to cook slowly until nicely 
browned. Serve them with a reduced Madeira wdne sauce, to which 
add a little fine chopped parsley. 



Article CXXX, 



FrcMcIi MULLEN, OR MULLEIN. «erm.in 

Mol-nt ou Bouillon blcvic. Wollkrout. 

No. 866.- — Mullen is a field plant. Its leaves and flowers have 
been employed as remedial agents. They have a slight odor and 
a mucilaginous, bitterish, feeble taste. Mullen leaves are demul- 
cent and emollient, and are said to possess anodyne properties, 
which render them useful in pectoral complaints. A strained infu- 
sion of the flowers is used in mild catarrhs and in diarrhoea. It 
will be found advantageous to moisten the leaves previous to boil- 
ing them. Pick the flowers before they expand, dry them in the 
shade, mixing and turning them occasionally to have them perfectly 
dry. Keep them in boxes in a cool dry place, and use them in diet 
drinks (tisanes), as in Article LXXXII. 



Article CXXX I. 



MUSHROOMS. 

Chcunpignon ou Mou^seron. Champig7i07i, or Ertshiuamm. 

No. 867. — The Mushroom is one of a large class of cryptogamic 
plants of the natural order of t'angi. The name is sometimes pop- 
ularly restricted to such species as are used for food. It is a cellu- 



200 HAEDEE'S AMEEICAN COOItEEY. 

lar plant, liaving generally a more or less rounded thallns supported 
upon a stalk, and liaving seeds upon tlie under surface or gills. 
They are numerous, being found in all parts of the world, and are 
usually of very rapid growth, often springing up and coming to 
maturity in a single day. Many species are used for food in differ- 
ent parts of the world, while other species are poisonous. Many 
varieties abound in the pastures and woods in all the States, and 
may be gathered wild and enjoyed by those who have not the 
means of raising them artificially. The}^ are gathered in all the 
different stages of their growth, and are used boiled, stewed, 
stuffed or broiled, and when dried are used for flavoring. The 
current belief is that, while many fungi are virulently poisonous, 
others, including the common Mushroom, are free from poison, 
and may be eaten in any quantity. The fear of poison deters many 
from making any use of this savory and nourishing but treacherous 
vegetable, and if they are afraid to eat them it is a matter of con- 
siderable importance to have the real standing of fungi as food 
stuffs made clear. According to recent investigations the question 
seems to be, not how to distinguish the poisonous from harmless 
species, but how to treat Mushrooms of every sort in such a way as 
to remove or neutralize the poison which they contain, with the pre- 
caution of using this class of food stuffs at all times with modera- 
tion. It has been ascertained that repeated washing with cold 
water removes most of the poison of Mushrooms, and that boiling 
dissolves out the rest. The water in which Mushrooms are boiled, 
however, is always poisonous, more so even than raw Mushrooms. 
Dried Mushrooms have been found to be dangerous for twenty 
days, and also the water in which such Mushrooms had been boiled. 
They are not really safe until after four months' drying. There- 
fore, treat all Mushrooms as poisonous; carefully throw out all the 
water in which they have been washed; cook them well, and never 
eat them in large quantities. The fact that all Mushrooms are more 
or less poisonous should be no bar to their use as food, proper care 
being taken in the cooking and eating. The detection of poisonous 
Mushrooms is a matter of deep consideration. The surest method 
of detecting them, and a precaution that should always be taken, is 
to put a silver coin or a solid silver spoon in the water in which 
Mushrooms are cooked. If the silver assumes a bluish or black 
color it may be assured that one or perhaps all of the Mushrooms 
are poisonous, and they should be thrown away. 

CULTURE. 

No. 868. — There can be no doubt but what all of the edible kinds 
would finally submit to and probably improve by cultivation, though 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 201 

as yet but a single species lias been generally introdncecl into the 
garden. The common Musliroom is the only kind cultivated, and 
can be grown in cellars, sheds, on shelves in the open air, or in 
caves free from iron or coal. Beds of the required width and length 
are made of fermenting horse manure, at a temperature of about 
seventy degrees, being eighteen inches deep. Plant the broken 
pieces of spawn in this bed, six inches apart, covering the whole 
"vsjith two inches of light soil, and protecting it from cold or severe 
rains. The Mushrooms will appear in about six weeks. Irrigate 
only when the bed is quite dry, with soft or lukewarm water. The 
best of all situations, when available, in which to grow Mushrooms, 
are underground caves, such as supply the Paris markets with such 
vast quantities. 

THE COMMON MUSHKOOM. 

No. 869. — When the common Mushroom first appears it has a 
white color, is of a roundish button-like form, and apparently rests 
on the surface of the ground. When fully developed the stem is 
solid and two inches in height, and its cap measures from one to 
four inches in diameter, changing to a brownish color when old and 
becoming tough and fleshy. It is readily distinguished when of 
medium size, by its fine pink or flesh-colored gills and pleasant 
odor. When old, the gills become of a chocolate color and it is 
then liable to be confounded with other kinds of a dubious quality. 
However, the species which resemble it most is slimy to the touch 
and is devoid of its flne odor, having rather a disagreeable smell. 
The noxious kinds always grow in woods or on the margin of woods, 
while the wholesome Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, 
and should be gathered only in such places when young and tender. 
The Mushroom produces no real seed, but instead of it has a white 
fibrous substance in broken threads, called spawn, which is pre- 
served in horse manure, being pressed in the shape of bricks. It 
will preserve its vitality for years when prepared in this manner. 

AGAEICUS COMATUS MUSHROOM. 

No. 870.— This is an excellent variety that is found in abundance 
in stumps of trees in pastures, appearing in spring and autumn. It 
is much used in catsup, but should only be used when young. 

SWEET OR DELICIOUS MUSHROOM. 

No. 871. — This is a variety of medium size, having a yellowish 
color ringed with orange on the top. It somewhat resembles a del- 
eterious species, but is readily distinguished from it, as when it is 



"202 haeder's ameeican cookeey. 

cut when fresli the juice is quite red and afterwards turns green, 
while tlie juice of the noxious kind is white and unchangeable. It 
is found in the fall of the year, growing under lir or pine tr -es. 

THE ST. GEORGE MUSHEOOM. 

No. 872. — This is a variety that attains a weight of four or five 
pounds in California, but is not as delicate as the common Mush- 
room. Those grown in Europe are superior to the common Mush- 
room in flavor and are more digestible. It grows in rings in pas- 
tures or in thickets under trees, and reappears for successive years 
on the same spot. 

blewit's blue hats. 

No. 873. — This is a favorite species, and is sold largely in the 
markets. It has a soft, moist, smooth pileus, with a solid bulbous 
stem, tinted with light blue. The gills are of a dingy white color, 
and rounded towards the stem. It should only be gathered in dry 
weather, as it absorbs moisture readily, and thereby is injured in 
flavor and rendered more liable to decay. 

agaricus primulas. ^ 

No. 874. — This variety is found only in spring, and grows in rings 
•on the borders of woodlands, at which time an abundance of its 
spawn can be obtained. It may be preserved by transplanting it 
into bricks of loam and horse manure, in which it will keep for 
several months, tiie same as the spawn of common Mushrooms. 
This variety is used both in its fresh and dried state. It is preserved 
by being cut into quarters, and then dried in the air for several 
days, when it is strung up and kept for future use. 

the fairy king. 

No. 875. — This Mushroom is found growing in rings, and has a 
pileus of a brownish ochre color, which changes to a paler cast as 
it grows, until it gradually fades into a rich, creamish yellow color. 
It is of excellent flavor, and is valuable for domestic use, owing to 
the facility with which it is dried, and its extensive dissemination. 
It may be kept for years without losing its aroma or flavor, 

Note. —The Boletus, Clavaria, and Morel varieties of Mushrooms wHl be found under their 
respective headings. 

HOW TO CLEAN AND PREPARE MUSHROOMS. 

No. 876. — Mushrooms should be used as soon as they are gathered. 
Put the solid ones in one pan, and those that are hollow in another, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 203 

having two quarts of acidulated water in each pan. Wash them 
well, then trim them and put them in separate pans again, that 
contain acidulated water. Let them soak for a while until ready 
1o use them. The small, solid button Mushrooms will resemble the 
cultivated French Mushrooms when cooked, and may be used for 
sauces and small garnitures. Cut off the stems of the hollow ones 
before washing them. The heads are used for stuffing, and are also 
broiled. The toj)s of the solid ones should be cut in crescent-like 
grooves, to give them a fancy appearance. The trimmings are 
chopped fine, and are used with fine herbs. 

COOKED MUSHROOMS, FOR CxENERAL PURPOSES. 

No. 877. — When the Mushrooms are washed and cleaned as in 
No. 876, select a saucepan that is not too large for the quantity of 
Mushrooms to be cooked. Put two pounds of fresh Mushrooms in 
the saucepan and add four ounces of butter, a quarter of a glassful 
of cold water, and the juice of two lemons. Cover the saucepan, 
put it on a brisk fire, and when the Mushrooms have boiled for two 
or three minutes, pour them into an earthen jar. When they are 
cold cover them with a buttered paper cover and keep them in a 
cool place. They may be used for any kind of sauces or garnitures. 
The juice is added to sauces to reduce them. 

Note.— When cooking large quantities of Mushrooms, put the saucepan on the fire and add 
them when the liquid boils. \ wine-glassful of water will be sufficient for five pounds of Mush- 
rooms. 

MUSHROOMS, WITH ALLEMxiNDE SAUCE. 

No. 878. — Reduce some Allemande sauce with some Mushroom 
gravy and then add the Mushrooms. If they are small leave them 
whole; if large, cut off the stems and slice them as desired. 

MUSHROOMS, WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE. 

No. 879. — Eeduce some Espagnole sauce with some Madeira wine 
and Mushroom gravy, and then add the Mushrooms as in No. 878. 

MUSHROOMS ON TOAST (SAUTe). 

No. 880. — ^Put a small piece of butter in an omelet pan, and 
when it is warm add a handful of Mushrooms and toss them over 
the fire until thoroughly w^armed. Then add a little salt and 
pepper, two spoonfuls of Mushroom juice, a little lemon juice and 
some fine chopped parsley. Serve it all hot on pieces of thin 
buttered toast. 



204 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

pueee of musheooms. 

No. 881. — Wash and clean two pounds of Mushrooms as in No. 
876, and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and the 
juice of half a lemon. Set the saucepan on a brisk fire, stirring its 
contents occasionally, until the moisture is well reduced. Then put 
them in a mortar and pound them fi.ne, and return them to the 
saucepan. Then add five spoonfuls of AUemande or Cream sauce, 
season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and let it simmer slowly 
for fifteen minutes. Then rub it through a fine sieve, and put it in 
a flat saucepan, reducing it with half a cup of cream. Before 
serving, add a piece of butter. 

Note. — Half a pound of cooked forced meat of chicken may be added, instead of the AUemande 
or Cream sauce. Keep the puree In a cool place, and when ready for use, add a piece of butter and 
bring it almost to the boiling point, stirring it all continually. 

BEOILED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST, MAITEE d' HOTEL. 

No. 882. — Wash and clean two dozen large Mushrooms, cut off 
the stems and dry them on a napkin. Put them in an earthen bowl 
with two or three spoonfuls of sweet oil, a little salt and the juice 
of one lemon. Half an hour before using them cover them with a 
buttered paper cover and let them macerate. Broil them on a fire 
that is not too brisk and serve them on a hot plate on pieces of hot 
buttered toast, with the bottoms of the Mushrooms upwards. Mix 
a little fine chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon juice with a 
piece of butter and put some of the mixture on each Mushroom. 

BEOILED MUSHEOOMS, BOEDELAISE. 

No. 883. — Prepare two dozen Mushrooms as in No. 882, and put 
them in an earthen bowl with three spoonfuls of sweet oil, a little 
salt and a few grains of pepper. Cover them with a buttered paper 
cover and set them in a cool place for one hour to macerate before 
using them. Broil them nicely and put them on a hot plate. Pre- 
pare the following mixture separately in a saucepan : Mix two spoon- 
fuls of sweet oil, a small piece of garlic chopped fine, and some 
chopped parsley and chervil. Warm this thoroughly and pour it 
over the Mushrooms, then squeeze the juice of one lemon over 
them and serve them hot. 

MUSHEOOMS, PEOVINCIAL. 

No. 884. — Prepare two dozen large Mushrooms as in No. 882, 
slice them and put them in an earthen bowl with two spoonfuls of 
sweet oil, a little salt, a few grains of pepper and two mashed cloves 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 205 

of garlic. Cover tliem with a buttered paper cover and set tliem in 
a cool place to macerate for an hour before using. When ready to 
use them, put one spoonful of sweet oil in an omelet pan, then chop 
the mashed garlic finely and add it to the warmed sweet oil. Then 
put the Mushrooms in and toss them over the fire until thoroughly 
warmed. Add a little fine chopped parsley and the juice of half a 
lemon, and serve the Mushrooms on toast. 

MUSHKOOMS, PIEMONTAISE. 

No. 885. — Wash and clean half a pound of Mushrooms, then slice 
them and put them in an omelet pan with a piece of butter and toss 
them over a brisk fire. When they are cooked add two spoonfuls 
of Allemande sauce, a few drops of meat glaze, a little fine chojDped 
parsley, the juice of half a lemon and a piece of butter. Toss them 
over the fire until the butter is melted and then serve them hot. 

USE OP TRIMMINGS AND PEELINGS. 

No. 886. — When the trimmings, peelings and stems of the 
Mushrooms are carefully washed, dry them well and chop them 
fine. Then put a piece of butter and some tine chopped shallots in 
a saucepan. Cover the pan and let them simmer slowly on a slow 
fire until cooked. Then add the chopped Mushrooms and let it cook 
until the moisture is reduced. After this put them in a bowl and 
use them with fine herbs, in Italian sauce or with baked fish. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS, WITH FINE HEEBS. 

No. 887. — Select two dozen large Mushrooms and cut off the stems 
close to the top, then wash them and drain them on a napkin. Put 
two fine chopped shallots in a saucepan, fry them lightly and then 
add two handfuls of fine chopped Mushrooms and cook them slowly. 
When the moisture is nearly reduced, add three spoonfuls of Alle- 
mande sauce reduced, and a little fine chopped parsley. In a little 
while put this to one side to get cool, and when cold stuff the selected 
Mushrooms with the mixture. Put them in a buttered pan, sprin- 
kle fresh bread crumbs over them, and put a few drops of sweet oil 
on top of each one. Then bake them in a moderate oven and serve 
them with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. 

STUFFED MUSHEOOMS, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 888. — Select two dozen large Mushrooms, and cut off the 
stems close to the top, then wash them in acidulated water and 



206 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

drain tliem on a napkin. Put two fine cliopped shallots and a piece 
of butter in a saucepan, and fry them lightly. Then add two hand- 
fuls of fine chopped Mushrooms, cover the pan and let them cook 
until the moisture is reduced. Then add one handful of fresh 
bread crumbs, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a 
little fine chopped parsley and two spoonfuls of Allemande or Cream 
sauce. Mis it all well together, then take it off' of the fire, add the 
yolks of three raw eggs, and set it aside to get cold. Then stuff the 
selected Mushrooms with this mixture, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs 
over them, arrange them in a buttered baking pan, and put a few 
drops of sweet oil on each Mushroom. Then bake them in a mod- 
erate oven and serve them with a brown Italian sauce. 

MUSHROOMS FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 889. — Use the solid, round, button-like Mushrooms for 
garnishing. Leave them whole, or if quite large use only the head. 
Keep them white, and groove the heads in crescent shapes, as it 
gives them a finer appearance. Dress them in bands, alternating 
with other vegetable garnitures. Stuffed Mushrooms are used for 
large garnitures, the same as stutfed tomatoes or peppers. 

MUSHROOMS WITH GRATINATED CRUSTS. 

No. 890. — Select one pound of small, solid Mushrooms, cut ofi^ 
the stems, and then cook them. Put them in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of water and a 
faggot of parsley garnished with a clove of garlic. Season them 
with salt and pepper. Toss them over a brisk fire, and when well 
cooked and the moisture is reduced, take out the faggot and add 
four spoonfuls of Allemande or Uream sauce. Have some crusts 
ready, and fill them with this mixture. Put two cooked Mushrooms, 
having the tops grooved in crescent shape, on top of each crust and 
moisten the tops with a few drops of meat glaze, and serve them 
hot. The crusts mentioned above, are made as follows: Cut some 
bread in pieces four inches long, two inches wide, and one and a 
half inches thick. Trim the sides in a nice shape and hollow out 
the centre of each piece, leaving the edges one-quarter of an inch 
thick. Then fry them in clarified butter, after which drain them 
and put them in an oven to dry. When ready, fill the centre with 
the Mushrooms. French rolls will answer the same purpose when 
prepared as follows: Cut them in half, scoop out the centre, butter 
them and set them in the oven to dry. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 207 

MUSHROOMS BAKED IN SHELLS. 

No. 891. — Prepare the Mushrooms the same as iu No. 890, and 
when the sauce is well reduced, fill some buttered silver shells with 
the Mushrooms. Then sprinkle i'resh bread crumbs over the top 
and put a small- piece of butter on each. Bake them until they are 
nicely browned and serve the shells on a plate with a napkin. Th& 
Mushrooms may also be prepared and baked with a reduced brown 
or white Italian sauce, or with a reduced AUemande sauce with, 
essence of Mushrooms. 

MUSHROOMS, POULETTE. 

No. 892. — Clean and wash one pound of Mushrooms. Put 
them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, the juice of 
one lemon, and two spoonfuls of water. Cover the saucepan,, 
put it on a brisk fire, and let the Mushrooms cook until they 
commence to boil. While this is cooking dilute two spoonfuls of 
flour in some cold water, strain it through a fine sieve, and, when 
the Mushrooms commence to boil, add the gravy to it to thicken it- 
Then let the Mushrooms cook slowly for five minutes, when you will 
add a glassful of cream diluted with the yolks of four raw eggs and 
a piece of butter. Toss them all well together off of the fire, and 
serve them as soon as they are ready with a little fine chopped 
parsley over them. 

MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 893. — When the Mushrooms are prepared and cooked as in 
No. 876, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season 
with salt and pepper, and add some Cream sauce with some of the 
Mushroom gravy. Let them simmer for fifteen minutes, and then 
serve the Mushrooms on toast. 

ESSENCE OF FRESH MUSHROOMS. 

No. 891:. — Wash half a pound of fresh Mushrooms, or the same 
quantity of trimmings. Put them in a saucepan with a piece of 
butter, the juice of one lemon and two soup-spoonfuls of white- 
broth. Cover the pan and set it on a brisk fire to cook for five 
minutes. Then strain the gravy through a napkin, and use it as 
needed. 

SOYA SAUCE. 

No. 895. — Soya Sauce can be procured from all first-class grocers, 
and is used principally as a dressing for fish. In case of necessity,, 



203 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

prepare it as follows, using fresli field Mushrooms, if possible, 
although any kind will do. Use about three pounds of small 
Mushrooms, and some trimmings, if any are on hand. Wash them 
well and put them in layers in an earthen jar. Sprinkle each layer 
with a little salt. Cover the jar and set it in a cool place for twelve 
hours. Then draw off all of the liquid and strain it through a 
napkin into a saucepan. Let it boil until it is reduced to one-quarter 
of its quantity, and then add a glassful of port wine, a little red 
pepper, and spices of all kinds in equal quantities. Let it boil 
again until reduced as before, then strain the liquid, put it in 
bottles and cork them tightly. Then cook them in a hot water bath 
for five minutes, and when cold it is ready for use. 

MUSHROOM CATCHUP. 

^o. 896. — Take six pounds of Mushrooms and put them in an 
earthen bowl in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt. Set it in a 
cool dry place for six hours, mixing them well, and mashing or 
breaking them in small pieces at the same time. Then cover them 
with a towel for three days, stirring them occasionally. Th6n 
drain ofi" the juice and put it into an earthen jar. To each quart of 
juice add half an ounce of ginger, half an ounce of allspice, a tea- 
spoonful of Cayenne pepper, and half a tea-spoonful of ground 
mace. Cover the jar tight and set it in a saucepan with cold water, 
and set it on the fire to boil, keeping it at the boiling point for 
six hours, adding boiling water as it reduces. Then pour the 
Catchup in a saucepan, let it boil slowly for half an hour, skimming 
it well, and then put it in an earthen bowl and keep it in a cool 
place. When it is cold and clear, pour off the liquid, without 
disturbing the sediment, and put it in tightly-corked bottles. 

MUSHROOMS, BORDELAISE. 

FOR BOLETUS, OR OEPES. 

No. 897. — Imported Boletus, or Cepes, are much superior to 
those grown here, and are packed in oil in tin cans. 

Put one dozen Cepes in an omelette pan with two spoonfuls of 
sweet oil. When thoroughly warmed, drain off the oil and add 
some finely chopped garlic and parsley. Toss them over the fire a 
couple of times, season with salt and pepper, add a spoonful of 
half glaze, and serve them hot. 

When fresh Cepes are used, they should be cleaned without 
washing them. Toss them over the fire in a pan with some sweet 
oil, and when they are cooked drain them, and then put them in 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 209 

the pan again with a spoonful of sweet oil, and finish as the 
others. 

MUSHROOMS, PROVINCIAL , 

FOR BOLETUS, OR CEPES. 

No. 898. — Clean and slice one dozen fresh Cepes and put them 
in a flat saucepan with a piece of butter, some finely chopped onions 
and a faggot of parsley garnished with one bay leaf and two cloves 
of garlic. Toss them over a brisk fire, and when the moisture is 
reduced, add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce and one of Tomato 
sauce. Season with salt and pepper, let them cook about five 
minutes, and then take out the faggot. Before serving, add a 
spoonful of Anchovie butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little 
finely chopped parsley. Toss them well over the fire until the 
butter is melted, and serve them with small pieces of toast around 
the dish. 

When canned Cepes are used, drain off the oil and proceed as 
above. 

MUSHROOMS, POLONAISE. 

FOR BOLETUS OR CEPES. 

No. 899. — Clean and slice one dozen Cepes, put them in a small 
flat saucepan with a little finely chopped onion and toss them over 
a brisk fire until the moisture is reduced. Then season them with 
salt and a pinch of red pepper, add three spoonfuls of Cream 
sauce and toss them well together. Put them in a buttered baking 
dish, sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over the top, add a little clarified 
butter, and then bake them in an oven. 

MUSHROOMS, WITH CREAM. 

FOR BOLETUS, OK CEPES. 

No. 900. — Clean one dozen Cepes, cut them in halves and put 
them in a small flat saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them 
over a brisk fire until the moisture is reduced, then season with salt 
and a pinch of pepper, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with 
fennel. Moisten them with a cupful of cream and let them cook 
slowly for fifteen minutes. Then remove the faggot and put the 
Cepes on a dish. 

Mix some finely chopped fennel or parsley with a piece of butter, 
stirring it until the butter is melted, and then pour it over the 
Cepes and serve them. 

If large quantities of Cepes are cooked it will be best to add a 
light Cream sauce. 
14 



210 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

MUSHROOM TARTLETS, WITH CREAM. 

No. 901.— Butter and flour two dozen tartlet moulds, and put 
in a thin layer of puff paste. 

Slice some Mushrooms or Cepes finely, and put them in a frying 
pan with a piece of butter and a few finely chopped shallots. Toss 
them over a brisk fire for a few minutes, season them with salt and 
pepper, and add a little finely chopped parsley. Fill the tartlet 
moulds with the Mushrooms, then put them in the oven to cook, 
and when nearly done take them out. 

Beat the whites of two eggs into a froth, and add six spoonfuls of 
cold reduced Cream sauce to it. Have it ready when you take the 
tartlets from the oven, and pour a little over each one. Put them 
in the oven again, and when they are nicely browned take them out 
of the moulds and serve them on a napkin. 

MUSHROOMS IN SHELLS, RUSSIAN STYLE. 

No. 902. — Put a piece of butter and a little finely chopped onion 
in a saucepan and fry them lightly. Then add one pound of 
Mushrooms (previously washed and trimmed). Season with salt 
and pepper, moisten them with some lightly thickened veal gravy, 
and let them cook for five minutes. Add a little finely chopped 
parsley and the juice of half a lemon, and put them in small silver 
baking shells. Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them, and put a 
piece of butter on top of each one. Let them bake in an oven, and 
when they are nicely browned, serve them hot in the shells on a 
napkin. 

DRY MUSHROOMS. 

No. 903. — Dry Mushrooms should always be kept on hand. Th-e 
best are to be obtained from Italian warehouses. Keep them in a 
dry place in covered jars. They are used for flavoring meats and 
sauces, and are also used in preparing macaroni. 

MUSHROOMS PRESERVED IN CANS. 

No. 904. — When preserving Mushrooms only fresh and solid ones 
should be used. Use the hollow ones for other purposes. 

Select the quantity of Mushrooms desired, trim them, wash them in 
cold acidulated water and then drain them. Put them in a saucepan, 
and to every three pounds add the juice of one lemon, a wine-glassful 
of water and a pinch of salt. Cover the saucepan, set it on a brisk 
fire and let the Mushrooms cook for five minutes. Then put them 
in an earthen bowl, and when they are cold drain ofl' the moisture. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 211 

Put the Mushrooms in pint tin cans and add enough of the juice to 
cover them. Then solder on the covers and boil the cans in a hot 
water bath for two hours. 

MUSHKOOMS PRESERVED IN JARS. 

No. 905. — Oook the Mushrooms the same as in No. 876 (adding a 
little more butter than usual), let them get cold and then put them 
in glass jars holding one quart and cover them air tight. Then 
boil them for one hour and a half in a hot water bath. Much de- 
pends upon the quality of the Mushrooms, and they should be pre- 
pared as soon as possible after they are plucked. 

MUSHROOM TRIMMINGS, PRESERVED FOR FINE HERBS. 

No. 906. — Take the trimmings of Mushrooms, wash them care- 
fully, chop them finely, then put them in a towel and press out all 
of the moisture. Take a sufficient quantity of shallots to equal one- 
eighth of the amount of Mushroom trimmings, chop them finely and 
press them in a towel. Mix the trimmings and shallots, and put 
them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Set it on the fire for ten 
minutes, stirring it occasionally with a wooden spoon, then set it 
aside to get cold. Then put the mixture in pint tin cans or glass 
jars, seal them hermetically and boil them in a hot water bath for 
one hour. 

MUSHROOMS PRESERVED. 

FOR BOLETUS, OB CEPES. 

No. 907. — Select Oepes all of the same size, peel and wash them 
and dry them on a towel. Arrange them in layers in pint tin cans, 
season each layer with salt, and put one clove of garlic in each can. 
Put sufficient of the best olive oil in each can to cover them. Then 
solder on the covers and boil the cans in a hot water bath for one 
hour and a half. 



ArTICIvK cxxxii. 



Frencli MUSK MELON. German 

Melon Muscat. Melon. 

No. 908. — This is a delicious species of melon; so called on 
account of its musky fragrance. Owing to the great facility witli 



212 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

which the various kinds intermix or hybridize, the varieties are not 
only numerous, but are constantly increasing. Familiar names of 
different varieties are clianged annually, as new kinds with superior 
recommendations spring up, and are offered as welcome substitutes 
for the old kinds. 

CULTURE. 

No. 909. — Cultivate them as you would cucumbers, except that 
the hills should be six feet apart, but avoid planting them near 
cucumbers, as they will mix with and injure the quality of the 
melons; this, and heavy rains at the time of ripening, will destroy 
the flavor of the finest stock. Eich earth for the young plants is 
far better than manure, but if the latter must be used, see that it is 
well rotted. If the plants grow very rank, more and finer fruit will 
be secured by pinching off the ends of the shoots when about three 
feet long. Cantaloupes are cultivated in the same manner. 

beech wood melon. 

No. 910. — The melon is nearly spherical, but is somewhat longer 
than broad. The skin is of a greenish yellow color, thickly and 
regularly netted. The flesh is green, being sugary, and of excellent 
flavor. 

CHEISTIANA. 

No. 911. — This variety is small and roundish, and matures early. 
Its skin is of a yellowish green color, the flesh is yellow, sweet, and 
juicy, and of good quality. 

CITKON. 

No. 912. — This is a medium sized melon, nearly round, but 
flattened slightly at the ends, being deeply and thoroughly ribbed. 
The skin is green, and thickly netted, but when fully matured it 
becomes tinged with yellow. The flesh is thick, green, and juicy, 
having a rich sugary flavor. It is a hardy abundant bearer, uniform 
in quality, and is much used in the Southern States. 

HAEDY EIDGE. 

No. 913. — A productive variety, having small fruit, which is 
strongly ribbed and has irregular warts all over its surface. The 
skin is of a dull yellow color. The flesh is about an inch deep, of 
a bright orange-red color, and is sweet and well flavored. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 213 

LARGE RIBBED NETTED. 

No. 914. — The melon is large, oval, and strongly ribbed, and is 
hardy and productive when planted in good soil. The skin is 
thickly netted and yellow in color. The flesh is of a salmon-yellow 
color, remarkably thick and sweet, but is not finely grained. 

NUTMEG. 

No. 915. — The fruit is oval and regularly ribbed, and when fully 
ripened is very delicious, being ranked as one of the best kinds. 
The skin is of a pale green color, thickly netted, though somewhat 
thin. The flesh is light green, rich, sweet, juicy, and highly 
perfumed. 

PINE APPLE. 

No. 916. — This variety is small and nearly round, having ribs that 
are but faintly defined and at times not being noticeable. The skin 
is thin and of an olive-green color, being more or less netted. The 
flesh is green, juicy, sweet, and highly flavored. This kind is 
easily grown and is very productive. 

skillman's eine netted. 

No. 917. — This is one of the earliest sorts, somewhat re^sembling 
the pine apple. It is firm and almost round, being slightly flattened 
at the ends. The flesh is green, juicy, sugary, and excellent. 

VICTORY OF BATH. 

No. 918. — The fruit is egg shaped and faintly ribbed, being 
rounded at the blossom end, and slightly contracted toward the 
stem. The skin is thin and green, clouded with yellow, and sparsely 
covered with fine net marks. The flesh is green. 

WHITE JAPAN. 

No. 919. — This is a roundish, medium sized or small melon, which 
ripens early, is very desirable and quite productive. The skin is 
very thin and of a cream-white color, the flesh being remarkably 
sweet and finely fiavored. 

MUSK MELON FOR RELISHES. 

No. 920. — Musk melons, like all the difi'erent varieties of melons, 
are served as a relish, or for dessert. They should be kept in a 



:214 haeder's American cookery. 

■cool place about an hour before serving them. Cut the melon in 
half, remove the seeds, slice it in ordinary pieces, and serve them 
on a napkin. Either sugar or pepper and salt can be used with 
them. 

pickled melons (mangoes). 

No. 921. — The small young and green citron, or cantaloupe 
melons, can be used. Cut out a small piece of the melon, wedge- 
shaped, so it can be replaced nicely, scoop out the seeds, replace 
the plug, and put the melons in the jar or barrel that you intend to 
fill. Make a brine, using one pound and a quarter of salt to a gallon 
of water, and boil it. Then pour it boiling hot over the melons, 
cover the barrel, and in three days drain off the brine, take the 
melons out of the barrel and stuff them the same as pickled stuffed 
bell peppers. Then put them in jars, pour some cold boiled wine 
or cider vinegar over them, to cover, put a small piece of alum in 
each jar, and cover them tightly. 

PRESERVED MELONS, SPICED. 

No. 922. — Musk, citron or cantaloupe melons can be used. Cut 
the melons in quarters, take out the seeds and remove the tenderest 
part of the flesh. Then peel off' the rinds and cut up about five 
pounds of the melon in scollops. Put sis pounds of sugar in a 
basin, to which add five pints of vinegar. Make it boil, and pour 
it boiling hot over the melons which you have put in a jar. Drain 
off the syrup the next day, then boil it and skim it, and pour it 
boiling hot over the melons. Kepeat this every day for five days. 
On the sixth day boil the syrup again, adding to it one ounce of 
white ginger, a small stick of cinnamon, six cloves, and the melons. 
Let it boil slowly for fifteen minutes, skim it clear, and then take 
it off of the fire to get cool. When cold put them in glass jars and 
cover them tightly. 

PRESERVED MELONS IN SYRUP. 

No. 923. — Cut the melons in quarters, take out the seeds, and 
peel off the rinds. Parboil them for three minutes, then immerse 
them in cold water and drain them. Put them in an earthen bowl. 
Make a syrup, using three pounds of loaf sugar to one and a quarter 
pounds of water. Set it on the fire to boil, skim it well and then 
pour it boiling hot over the melons. Cover them with a paper 
cover and set them aside for twenty-four hours. Drain off the 
syrup next day and let it boil, adding some more sugar, and then let 
it boil to a thread. Set it aside to get cold and then pour it over 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 215 

the melons again. Boil it over again nest day to the same degree, 
skimming it well, and pour it over the melons when boiling hot. 
Boil it the nest day to a thick thread, skimming it well; then add 
in the melons and let the syrup boil up t .vice. On the following 
■day boil the syrup again to the same degree, then add the melons 
and let them simmer slowly for five minutes. When well skimmed 
put the melons in glass jars, and when they are cold cover them 
tightly. 

Note. — The juice of a lemon, or a little wine vinegar, cau be added to the syrup when cooking 
it to heighten the ilavor. 



Articlk cxxxiii 



French MUSTARD. German 

Moutarde. Senf. 

No. 924. — There are five kinds of Mustard, the plant and the seed 
having a pungent taste. A condiment is made from the ground 
seeds, which are also used as remedial agents, being useful 
esternally in cataplasms, and internally as a diuretic and irritant. 
The rough leaves of the White Mustard plant, when young and 
undeveloped, make a pungent salad when mised with water cress. 
They are also cooked and prepared the same as spinach. The Black 
Mustard seed makes the most piquant Mustard for table purposes. 

CULTURE. 

No. 925. — Sow the seeds thickly in rows and cut the plants when 
they are about two inches high. For a crop of seeds sow in April, 
in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants out moderately when 
they are about three inches high. For use during winter it may be 
sown at intervals in boses, in the green house or in frames. 

WHITE MUSTARD. 

No. 926. — The White Mustard plant is a hardy annual that grows 
in gardens and fields, having thin stems that attain a height of 
about three feet. The leaves are large and of a rich deep green 
color. When it is grown in gardens for salad or greens sow it as 
early as the ground will admit, in drills ten inches apart. Remove 
the weeds and water it well in dry weather. Cut the plants when 
in seed leaf, as when they become developed they get strong and 
ill-flavored. 



216 haeder's ameeican cookeey. 

CHINESE OE PEKIN MUSTAED. 

No. 927. — This is a liardj annual that grows about four feet high, 
and has large leaves, which are used in salad and are also prepared 
the same as spinach. 

DUELED MUSTAED. 

No. 928. — This plant is small, with greenish yellow leaves of 
medium size, that are finely cut on the borders and beautifully 
curled. They have a pleasant taste when used in salads. The seeds 
resemble those of the Black Mustard. 

CUT LEAVED MUSTAED. 

No. 929. — The leaves, when young, make an excellent salad when 
mixed with water cress. 

BLACK MUSTAED. 

No. 930. — This is a hardy annual that grows in great abundance. 
The young plants, cut to the ground, are used the same as spinach, 
or in salads. The common table Mustard is made from the seeds 
of this variety. 

CHAELOCK MUSTAED. 

No. 931. — This is a wild field plant and is used for greens or 
salad and has a peculiar pleasant taste. 

MUSTAED FLOUE MIXED FOE TABLE USE. 

No. 932. — Americans generally prefer Mustard flour mixed with 
vinegar or plain with water. Epicures prefer it mixed with hot 
water and white wine, or with new wine and vinegar. French 
Mustard can be obtained from all first-class grocers. There are 
several varieties, some of which are flavored with tarragon, 
anchovies or fine herbs, etc. 

Note. — Never use a metallic spoon in mustard as it forma verdigris when left to stand in the 
Mustard pot, and may render it poisonous. | 

ANCHOVIE MUSTAED. 

No. 933. — Trim one dozen of salted anchovies, pound them in a 
mortar into a fine paste, and rub the paste through a fine sieve. 
Then put it back in the mortar and add half a pound of Mustard 
flour diluted with white wine. Mix it all well together and put it 
in small bottles and cork them tightly. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 217 

EATIGOTE MUSTAED. 

No. 934. — Pick lialf a pound of the leaves of burnet, tarragon, 
chervil, and garden cress. Dip them in boiling water for a minute, 
then immerse them in cold water, and afterwards put them in a 
towel and press out all of the moisture. Pound it finely in a mortar, 
adding a clove of garlic if that flavor is desired. Then rub it 
through a fine sieve and put it back in the mortar. Add half a 
pound of Mustard flour diluted with water, and mix the whole well 
together. Then put it in small bottles and cork them tightly. 

MUSTARD SAUCE FOR DEVILED "MEATS. 

No. 935. — Put half a pound of Mustard flour in a bowl and add 
a pinch of red pepper, a little salt, and four soup-spoonfuls of Wor- 
cestershire sauce. Dilute this with wine vinegar to the consistency 
of a sauce. Put it in bottles for future use. 



Article CXXXIV. 



French NASTURTIUM. German 

Capucine. Indishe Kresse. 

No. 936. — This is a climbing plant, which, though generally 
treated as an annual, is a tender perennial. It has peltate leaves 
and spurred flowers of a vivid yellow or orange color, and strong 
odor. The fleshy fruits have a warm, pungent flavor, like the cress, 
and are pickled and used the same as capers. The small green 
ones are preferred and are used in sauces and with salads. The 
young shoots are eaten as a salad, while the richly colored flowers 
make a handsome garniture for salads. 

CULTURE. 

No. 937. — When they are cultivated for their flowers or seeds 
they should be j)lanted in poor, light soil. The drills are made 
three feet apart, and the young plants should be thinned out to six 
inches apart. The young crop is supported by staking or bushing, 
the same as peas, and requires much attention. See that they are 
properly attached to the stakes, and keep the ground free from 
weeds. 



218 HARDER"S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

SMALL NASTURTIUM. 

No. 938. — This is a dwarf variety, the stem rarelv measuring more 
than two feet in length. The flowers are yellow and the pods are 
small, being preferred to the others for pickling. It yields 
iibundantly. 

TALL NASTURTIUM. 

No. 939. — This variety is very ornamental for covering arbors, 
Jiaving a stem from six to eight feet high. Sow it in rich made 
soil to have luxuriant foliage. It has large yellow flowers, with the 
upper petals slightly streaked and marked with purple. 

DARK FLOWERING. 

No. 940. — This variety is similar to the Tall Nasturtium, except 
that the flowers are of a dark brown color. 

NASTURTIUM SEED BUDS, PICKLED. 

No. 941. — Pick the quantity of seed buds desired, and put them 
in bottles. Boil some good wine vinegar, and when it is cold pour 
it over the seed buds in the bottles, and add a sprig of tarragon. 
They are used the same as capers. 



Article CXXXV. 



rrenck NETTLE. German 

Ortie. Nessel. 

No. 942. — The common Nettle is a hardy, herbaceous perennial, 
which grows naturally and in abundance by the wayside, but it is 
seldom seen where people have not been at work; hence it is consid- 
ered a sort of domestic plant. The stem is erect and branching, while 
the leaves are heart-shaped at the base, toothed on the borders, and 
thickly set with small, stinging hair-like bristles. The common 
Nettle produces a large proportion of fiber, which is used in making 
ropes, cordage, sewing thread, and white linen cloth of superior 
quality. Like many other common plants the superior merit of 
these troublesome weeds has been greatly overlooked. Early in 
April the tops will furnish tender leaves that are used as a pot herb 
for soups, or are prepared the same as spinach. The cultivated 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 219 

Nettle is used most, being propagated from roots that are planted 
either in pots or in the forcing house. They will soon send up an 
abundance of tender tops. They may be blanched by covering 
them with other pots. If planted close to a flue in the vineyard 
they will produce excellent Nettle-kale or Nettle-spinach in January 
or February. 



ArTICLK CXXXVI 



FrencU NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. Cerman 

Epiaart {Belle dame) . SiAnat 

No. 943. — This Spinach is quite distinct from the common garden 
Spinach, varying essentially in its general habit. It is a hardy annual 
plant, and is more productive than the average of spinaceous plants. 
The leaves are of a fine green color, large, broad, thick and fleshy. 
The leaves are the parts of the plant eaten, being gathered as they are 
developed, leaving the ends of the young shoots uninjured. If not 
cut to excess the plant will yield abundantly until destroyed by 
frost. The leaves retain their fresh, succulent character after they 
are fully grown, and even under the influence of the heat and 
draught. It is prepared the same as common garden Spinach for 
table use. 



ARTICI.K CXXXVII. 



NUTMEG. 

Muscade (Noix). Muslcatenmis. 

No. 944. — The Nutmeg tree is about thirty feet high, with 
numerous branches, and an aspect somewhat resembling that of the 
orange tree. The leaves stand alternately on short foot stalks, and 
are oblong-oval, pointed, entire, undulated, bright green and some- 
what glossy on their upper surface, whitish beneath, and of an 
aromatic taste. The flowers are male and female on different trees. 
The former are disposed in axillary, peduncled, solitary clusters, 
and the latter are single, solitary, and axillary. Both are minute 
and of a pale yellowish color. The fruit which appears on the tree 
mingled with the flowers, is round or oval; of the size of a small 
peach, smooth, at first pale green, but yellow when ripe, and marked 
with a longitudinal furrow. The external covering, which is at first 



220 habdee's ameeican coozeey. 

thick and fleshy, and abounds in an austere, astringent juice, 
afterwards becomes dry and coriaceous, and, separating into two 
valves from the apex, discloses a scarlet, reticulated membrane, 
commonly called mace, closely investing a thin, brown, shining- 
shell, which contains the kernel or Nutmeg. It is a native of the 
Moluccas and other neighboring islands, and abounds in the Banda 
Islands, whence the chief supplies of Nutmegs were long derived. 
Numerous varieties are cultivated in Sumatra, Java, Penang, Ceylon, 
and other parts of the East Indies, and have been introduced into 
the Isles of France and Bourbon, Cayenne, and several of the West 
India islands. The Penang Nutmegs are distinguished by not being 
limed. When Nutmeg is cut or broken it presents a yellowish 
surface, varied with a reddish brown, branching, irregular veins, 
which give to it a marbled appearance. These dark veins abound 
in oily matter, upon which the medicinal properties depend. The 
odor of Nutmeg is delightfully fragrant, the taste warm, aromatic, 
and grateful. Its virtues are extracted by alcohol and ether. The 
largest Nutmegs are the most expensive. They should be rejected 
when very light, with a feeble taste and smell, worm eaten, musty, 
or marked with black veins. Nutmeg has considerable narcotic 
power, and when taken in doses of from two to three drams will 
produce stupor and delirium, and dangerous if not fatal conse- 
quences. It is frequently used as an agreeable addition to 
farinaceous articles of diet, and to various kinds of drink in cases 
of languid appetite and delicate stomach. It is usually given in 
substance, and is brought by grating to the state of a powder. Its 
pleasant flavor makes it invaluable in cookery for seasoning. Nut- 
meg should always be purchased entire, as when it is ground it soon 
loses its strength. To ascertain if they are fresh stick a pin in one, 
and if the pin is oily when you withdraw it the Nutmeg is fresh. 
When dry they are of no use. 



ArTICLK cxxxviii. 



French OAK, COMMON WALL GERMANDER. German 

Petlta Chene, Baumgamander . 

No. 945. — The Oak Germander is a small perennial European 
plant, the leaves and tops of which have an agreeable aromatic odor, 
diminished by drying, and a bitter, somewhat astringent, aromatic, 
durable taste. They have been used as a corroborant in uterine, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 221 

rheumatic, gouty, and scrofulous affections, and intermittent fevers. 
Pick the flowers, remove the petals, and dry them. For their 
preparation see Diet Drinks, Article LXXXII. 



Article CXXXIX. 



French OATS. German 

Fariue D'Avoine. Hafermehl. 

No. 946. — The common white Oat is specifically distinguished by 
its loose panicle, its two-seeded glumes, and its smooth seeds, one 
of which is awned. It is cultivated all over the world chiefly for 
horses, but the grain is very nourishing and is largely consumed as 
food in Great Britain and other countries. A decoction is said to 
possess decided diuretic properties, and to be useful in dropsy. 
The seeds deprived of their husks are sometimes called groats. As 
a food coarsely ground Oat meal is usually preferred to the fine meal. 
Oat meal is very slightly, but not unpleasantly, bitter, and yields 
most of its nutritive matter readily to boiling water. Gruel made 
from Oat meal affords a nutritious and easily digested aliment. It 
is generally administered after brisk cathartics to render them 
easier and more efficient in their action, 

BLACK CHAMPION. 

No. 947. — This new Oat possesses great merit. Its tillering 
properties are remarkable. The heads, or panicles, are long and 
very spreading, averaging sixty or seventy spikelets, from twelve to 
eighteen inches in length, with two large grains to each spinkel.et. 
The kernels are extra large, plump and heavy, black and glossy; 
are without awns, while the husk is thin and soft. The straw is 
from three to six feet long, stiff and elastic, does not lodge, and, so 
far seems to be rust-proof. Only half the quantity of seed should 
be sown, compared with other sorts. 

AMERICAN TRIUMPH. 

No. 948. — This variety has many excellent qualities. Its average 
height when standing in the field is six feet, yet the straw is so 
strong anrl firm that it holds up well, without lodging. The tall, 
luxuriant heads are filled with plump, heavy grains. 



222 haeder's ameeican cookeey, 

EUSSIAN white OATS. 

No. 949. — This grain is very productive, a single grain giving 
sixteen stalks in many instances. It is generally free from rust, 
and is well adapted for general use. 

GEUEL. 

No. 950. — Gruel is prepared in different ways with oat meal flour, 
and with the grain. Use fresh flour only, as it is liable to have a 
sour taste, if not kept in a dry, warm place. When using flour the 
gruel is prepared with water, milk or broth, then sweetened with 
sugar or honey, and flavored with the juice of a lemon. When 
making gruel from the whole grains steep them in cold water over 
night, then drain them and let them cook slowly in water or milk, 
and when cooked strain the gruel through a towel with pressure, and 
sweeten to taste. 

OAT MEAL GEUEL. 

No. 951. — Oat meal gruel may be prepared by boiling an ounce 
of meal with three pints of water to a quart, straining the decoction, 
allowing it to stand until it cools, and then pouring ofl" the clear 
liquor from the sediment. Sugar and lemon juice may be added 
to improve its flavor; raisins are not unfrequently boiled with the 
meal and water for the same purpose. 

SCOTCH OAT MEAL GRUEL. 

No. 952. — Soak one pound of Oat meal over night, then strain the 
liquid through a towel, with pressure, to extract as much of the 
farinaceous matter as will go throagh. Put one quart of water 
in a saucepan, and when it boils add a little salt and the liquid 
extracted from the Oat meal. Let it boil down until it thickens, 
and serve it hot, or allow it to cool to a jelly-like mass, and serve 
it with cream and powdered sugar . 

OAT MEAL POREIDGE. 

No. 953. — Boil two quarts of water in a sauce pan, season it with 
salt, and drop in slowly one pound of Oat meal while stirring it 
with a wooden spoon. Let it boil slowly for a few minutes, then 
set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly for three quarters of an 
hour, stirring it up occasionally from the bottom. A little milk 
and butter may be added before serving, or serve it with a pitcher 
of cream, some sugar and butter. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 22S 

GEE AM OF OAT MEAL. 

No. 954. — Put two quarts of milk in a sauce pan, and when it boils, 
add six ounces of Oat meal flour diluted with cold milk, stirring^ 
it well. Then let it boil slowly and add a stick of cinnamon, the peel 
of a lemon, a few coriander seeds, a pinch of salt and one of mace. 
Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty minutes. 
Then strain it through a fine sieve, and put it back in the saucepan 
to keep warm, not allowing it to boil. Add some powdered sugar 
to sweeten it, stirring until the sugar is melted. Serve it in small 
cups. 



ARTICIvB CXIv. 



FrcEch OKRA, OR GUMBO. German 

Gumbo. Ocher. 

No. 955. — Okra is an annual plant from the West Indies and 
South America, and is largely raised in the Southern States. It is 
cultivated for its green seed pods, which are used in soups and 
served as a vegetable. The pods when young and tender should be 
cut in sections, strung on twine and hung up in the shade to cure 
(the same way as dried fruit). In this condition the Okra can be^ 
used for soup at any time. 

CULTURE. 

No. 956. — Sow the seed thinly in dry, warm soil, in shallow drills 
two feet apart. Cover the seeds lightly, and after the plants are 
up thin them out to nine inches apart. Hoe frequently and draw 
a little earth to the stems as they continue to grow. Gather the- 
pods when quite green and about an inch and a half long. 

DWAEF GEEEN. 

No. 957. — The earliest and best variety for the Northern or East- 
ern States. 

LONG GEEEN. 

No. 958. — Long, pale green and ribbed. 



224 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

fall, oe giant (white podded). 

No. 959. — It yields abundantly, especially in the Southern States, 
and is similar to the dwarf plant with the exception of being larger 
in size. 

STEWED OKEA, PLAIN. 

No. 960. — Cut the stems from fifty Okra, and put them into a sauce- 
pan with boiling water to cover. Season with salt and cook them 
on a brisk fire until they are tender. Then drain them and dish 
them up, pouring over them a little melted butter, with which add 
the juice of a lemon and some salt and pepper. 

STEWED OKEA, WITH TOMATOES. 

No. 961. — Cut the stems from two dozen Okra, put them into a 
saucepan with one dozen peeled tomatoes cut in quarters, and 
moisten with two soup-spoonfuls of water. Add a piece of butter 
and season with salt and pepper. Let them simmer for half an 
hour. 

Note. — When cooked they may be baked by being put in a buttered deep baking dish and sprink- 
led over with fresh bread crumbs. Wipe the Ijorder, put a piece of butter on top, divided in small 
parts, and bake in a moderate oven. 

OKEA STEWED WITH FINE HEEBS. 

No. 962. — Cut off both ends of some Okra, wash them in cold 
water and then put them into a saucepan witli a pint of boiling 
water and a little salt. Let them boil on a brisk fire, and when 
tender drain off some of the liquid, add a piece of butter and sea- 
son with salt, pepper and a little fine chopped parsley. 

OKEA SALAD. 

No. 963. — When the Okra is boiled as in No. 960 drain them, and 
when cold slice them and add a few finely sliced green peppers, 
vinegar, oil and a few chopped chives. 

OKEA FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 964. — When used for garniture in stews, add the Okra when 
the meats are nearly cooked. Leave the smaller pods whole and 
cut the larger ones in half. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 225 

OKRAFOR SOUP. 

No. 965. — Cut the Okra iu slices an eighth of an inch thick and 
add them to the soup fifteen minutes before serving. Let it boil 
slowly. 

DRY OKRA, ITS USE. 

No. 966. — Dry Okra is used for soup when the green variety is 
not to be had. Wash it in cold water and let it soak for an hour, 
then proceed as above, care being taken to have only a good qual- 
ity or the Okra will taste like hay. When the best quality of canned 
Okra can be had it will be found far superior to the dry, and it 
needs only to be added to the soup a few minutes before serving. 

OKRA, OR GUMBO SOUP, WITH CHICKEN. 

No. 967. — Cut two tender chickens into small pieces, about three 
quarters of an inch thick, and put them in a saucepan with a piece 
of butter. Fry them lightly and then add two medium-sized onions, 
chopped finely, with half their quantity of lean, raw ham, cut the 
same way. Cook them for a few minutes, then moisten with a 
gallon of chicken or veal broth. When it boils skim off the grease 
and add a faggot of parsley garnished with celery and a leek. 
Season with salt and pepper, add two green peppers cut into small 
slices and set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly. When the 
chicken is half cooked add one dozen of peeled tomatoes cut in 
quarters (or if they are large into six parts), with four ounces of 
Carolina rice and about fifty sliced Okra. When they are cooked 
skim the soup, take out the faggot, and serve. When properly 
cooked the broth will be found to have a mucilaginous consistency. 



Article CXLI 



French ONIONS. German 

Oignun. Zwiebeln. 

No. 968. — The Onion is a half-hardy biennial plant. The roots 
and leaves, however, are annual, as they usually perish during the 
first year. The bulbs, for which the plant is generally cultivated, 
are biennial, and differ to a considerable extent in their size, form, 
and color. It contains considerable nutriment and has valuable 
15 



226 HARDEE's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

medicinal qualities. The disagreeable odor it imparts to the breath 
may be avoided in a great measure by thorough cooking, or by 
eating a few leaves of parsley. Much depends upon the climate 
and soil as well as the quality of seed, which exerts a great influence 
on the crop, and to this end great care should be exercised in 
selecting the seed. The white Onion is much sweeter than the red. 
Onions are used more than any other vegetable for culinary 
purposes. 

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. 

No. 969. — A good crop of Onions can be raised in any soil which 
will produce a full crop of corn, unless it be stiff clay, very light 
sand or gravel, or certain varieties of muck or swamp land. There 
is no crop in which the quality of the manijre used is of greater 
importance than in this. If it is too rank it is quite sure to make 
soft Onions, with many scullions. It should be fermented during 
the previous summer to kill the wheat seeds. All refuse of the 
previous crop should be removed, the manure spread evenly, and 
the ground plowed a moderate depth, in order to thoroughly mix th& 
manure with the soil. Cultivate as early in the spring as the ground 
will permit. It is impossible to cultivate the crop economically 
unless the rows are perfectly straight, and to secure this, stretch a 
line along one side, fourteen feet from the edge, and make a distinct 
mark as a guide. Then having made a wooden marker something 
like a giant rake (with five teeth about a foot long, and fourteen 
inches apart), make four more marks by carefully drawing it with 
the outside tooth in the line and the head at right angles to the- 
perfectly straight mark made by the line. Continue to work around 
this line until on the third passage of the marker you reach the 
side of the field where you began. Measure fifteen feet two inches 
from the last row, stretch the line again and mark around in the, 
same way. This is much better than to stretch a line along one 
side. Sow the seed as soon as the ground is ready, which can be 
done best by a hand seed drill. 

CULTURE, 

No. 970. — As soon as the Onions are up so they can be seen the 
length of the rows, hoe them by just skimming the ground between 
the rows. A few days after give them the second hoeing. This, 
time hoe close up to the plants. After this weeding must commence, 
which should be done thoroughly and carefully, stirring the earth 
around the plants in order to destroy any weeds that have just- 
started and cannot be seen. In about two weeks they will require 
another hoeing and weeding, similar to the last, and two weeks. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 227 

later another if necessary. If the work is carefully done the crojD 
will need no further attention until ready to gather. Then, as soon 
as the tops die and fall, the crop should be gathered by pulling 
four rows and laying them in one row (the tops all one way), and 
then forming a similar row with the tops in the opposite direction. 
If the weather is fine they will require no attention, while curing, 
but if not they will need to be stirred, by simply moving them 
slightly along the row. When the tops are perfectly dry cut them 
off half an inch from the bulb and throw each pair of rows together, 
forming windrows about nine feet apart. After a few days of bright 
weather they will be fit to store away. 

HOW TO KEEP ONIONS THROUGH THE WINTEE. 

No. 971. — It is essential for the preservation of Onions to keep 
them dry, to have thorough ventilation, and to keep them free from 
frost. One of the most popular methods of keeping Onions is to 
spread straw to the depth of fifteen inches on a dry floor and upon 
this spread the Onions ten inches deep and cover them with one foot 
of straw. They will then keep in fine condition for months. Upon 
the approach of cold weather close the doors and windows, keeping 
the temperature just above the freezing point. With proper care 
they can be kept sound until spring. 

EEMAEKS ON SMALL ONIONS. 

No. 972. — It is difficult to grow Onions from seed in certain 
localities, while from sets good Onions are grown quite early. The 
sets are little Onions grown up the previous year and taken up when 
as large as peas. When set out in the spring they very soon form 
good large Onions. There are two kinds of Onions that are not 
grown from seed, the Potato and the Top Onion. The Potato 
Onion grows in clusters under the ground. These little bulbs are 
planted in the spring and produce large Onions. The large Onions 
are planted the next spring and produce the clusters. The Top 
Onion produces the small clusters on the top of the stem, where 
the seed is produced in the common varieties. These small Onions- 
are planted in the spring and the result is full grown Onions; the 
large ones with a year's growth produce the clusters. 

EAELY EED GLOBE. 

No. 973. — This variety is globe-shaped and very handsome in 
appearance. The skin has a deep red color, and the flesh is mild 
and tender. 



228 haedee's ameeican cookery. 

extea eaely eed. 

No. 974. — A medium-sized flat variety, producing abundantly and 
very desirable for early use. It is uniform in shape, of moderate 
size and is strongly flavored. 

LARGE EED WETHERFIELD. 

'No. 975. — This is a standard and favorite variety in the East and 
is excellent for exportation. It is very productive, generally of 
large size and keeps well. It is almost round, being a little flat- 
tened. The skin is of a purplish red color and the flavor is strong. 

LARGE YELLOW DUTCH. 

No. 876. — One of the oldest and best known varieties. It is 
mild and well flavored, having white, finely grained flesh. 

YELLOW DAN VERS. 

No. 977. — This is a fine globular variety of medium size. The 
skin is of a yellowish-brown color, and the flesh is white with a 
mild fiavor. 

WHITE POETUGAL, SILVEE SKIN. 

No. 978. — This is a large, flat and mild flavored Onion, that is 
much esteemed for Toickling, and keeps better than any of the white 
Onions. 

WHITE SILVEE SKIN, FOE PICKLING. 

No. 979. — This is a large Onion, and is preferred to any other 
kind for pickling. It is handsome in appearance. 

WHITE GLOBE. 

No. 980. — This variety yields abundantly, producing handsome 
globe-shaped bulbs. The flesh is flrm, finely grained and of mild 
flavor. 

LAEGE MEXICAN. 

No. 981. — This variety attains a diameter of six inches, and 
weighs from three to four pounds. It is usually eaten raw, having 
white, coarsely-grained flesh of mild flavor. The skin is generally 
white, and sometimes of a light reddish color. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 229 

EAELY NEOPOLITAN MARZAJOLA. 

No. 982. — A beautiful wliite-skinned flat variety, and a good 
keeper. If it is sown in February or March, a crop will mature 
early in the season. 

GIANT ROCCA. 

No. 983. — This variety is well adapted for culinary purposes, 
having a mild flavor, tender flesh and a light brown skin. It pro- 
duces large globular Onions from seed the first season, but to attain 
its largest growth, the smallest bulbs should be set out the nest 
spring, when they will continue increasing in size instead of pro- 
ducing seed. 

GIANT WHITE ITALIAN TRIPOLI. 

No. 984.— This is a large, beautiful, pure white flat variety, that 
will produce large Onions from seed, but to attain their largest size 
the small bulbs should be set out the following spring. The flavor 
is mild and excellent. 

NEW QUEEN. 

No, 985. — This variety grows quickly and keeps well. If sown 
in February, it will produce Onions two inches in diameter early 
in summer. If sown in July, they will be ready to pull out in 
autumn, and will be sound and fit for use until the following 
autumn. If sown thickly, they will mature perfectly hard. They 
are particularly valuable for pickling. 

RED, YELLOW OR WHITE BOTTOM SETS, 

No. 986. — The sets are produced by sowing the seed very thickly 
in the spring, without thinning them out; they mature when about 
one inch up. Their use is precisely the same as the Top Onions — 
to set them out in the spring instead of sowing seed. The seed of 
the White Silver Skin or the White Portugal varieties, is used for 
the White Set. They do not keep as well as the others, but produce 
small white Onions early in the season. 

ENGLISH MULTIPLIER. 

No. 987. — Esteemed by many as the best variety for early use. 
It is large in size, of a mild, sweet sugary flavor, very early and a 
large producer. The large Onions produce several small Onions 
in clusters around the bulb, growing mostly on the top of the 
ground. 



230 haedee's ameeican cookeey 

potato onion. 

No. 988. — This variety produces a quantity of young bulbs on 
tlie root, which should only be planted in spring, six inches apart, 
in rows that are eighteen inches wide, under one inch of soil. The 
English Multiplier should be planted in the same way. The large 
bulbs produce small Onions and the small bulbs large ones. 

PLAIN BOILED ONIONS. 

No. 989. — Peel two dozen medium-sized Onions, cut off the roots 
and stems and be careful not to injure the skin. Put them in a 
saucepan, cover them with water, add a little salt and a piece of 
butter, cover the saucepan, set it on a brisk fire and when they are 
tender strain oif the water and serve them with melted butter. 

BOILED ONIONS, WITH BUTTER OR CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 990. — Boil the Onions in the same manner as in No. 989, and 
when tender drain off the water and add three spoonfuls of Butter 
or Cream sauce. Let them simmer for five minutes and then serve. 

EEIED ONIONS. 

No. 991. — Peel three or four Onions, cut off the roots and stems 
slice them crosswise and with the finger detach the rings. Season 
w4th salt, flour them and mix them well together. Put them in a 
colander and shake off the superfluous flour. Then fry them in hot 
lard, and when they are nicely colored, drain them on a napkin 
and serve. 

SMOTHERED ONIONS. 

No. 992. — Peel half a dozen Onions, cut them in halves, trim oft 

. the ends, slice them finely and put them in a saucepan with a piece 

of butter. Cover the saucepan and put them on a slow fire to 

simmer (stirring them occasionally) and when lightly colored drain 

off the butter and serve them as needed. 

GLAZED ONIONS. 

No. 993. — Peel two dozen small white Onions of equal size, and 
be careful not to cut the tops or roots too much, or they will come 
apart when they are being cooked. Put them in a flat saucepan 
with a piece of butter, season with salt and sprinkle them with a 
little powdered sugar. Moisten them, to cover, with broth (or 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 231 

water), put them on a brisk fire and when the moisture is half 
reduced, set them in a moderate oven, occasionally shaking them 
over. When the moisture is reduced to a glaze roll the Onions in it 
so as to glaze them evenly, and use them as needed. 

NjTE. — When they are to be serve 1 with a sauce, dish up the Onions when they are cooked and 
glazed, and aid to the glaze two soup-spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, and one of gravy. Then let it 
boil slowly, skim off the grease, reduce it to its consistency and pour it over the Onions. 

STUFFED ONIONS. 

No. 994. — Take half a dozen white Onions of equal size, peel them 
carefully, but do no not cut the end parts too deep. Parboil them 
for ten minutes in water lightly salted; to which add a piece of 
butter. Drain them, and then dry them on a napkin. When cool 
scoop out the center of each Onion and fill them with a forced meat 
of veal of chicken, into which add some cooked fine herbs. Arrange 
the Onions in a buttered flat saucepan, close together, and 
season them with salt and a little sugar. Cover each Onion with a 
thin slice of fat pork, moisten them with broth, and set them on the 
fire. When it boils put on the cover and set the pan in a moderate 
oven. When cooked dish them up, strain the gravy in another 
saucepan and skim off the grease. Add three spoonfuls of 
Espagnole sauce to reduce it to its consistency, and serve it on the 
dish with the Onions. 

STUFFED ONIONS, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 995. — Prepare the Onions in the same manner as in No. 994, 
and when they are drained and cooled, scoop out the center of each 
one, which you will chop finely, and add enough of fresh bread 
crumbs to give a nice consistency. Also add two tablespoonfuls of 
fresh mushrooms finely chopped, two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine 
herbs, reduced with a little Espagnole sauce, and a little fine 
chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Mix the whole 
well together and stuff the Onions with it. Arrange them in a but- 
tered flat saucepan, sprinkle some bread crumbs over them, and put 
a small piece of butter on top of each one. Then bake them in a 
moderate oven until nicely browned. 

PUREE OF ONIONS (BROWN SOUBISE). 

No. 996. — Peel one dozen large red Onions, cut them in halves, 
trim off" the ends and slice them fine. Then parboil them for two 
minutes, immerse them in cold water and drain them dry. Then 
put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and fry them to a 



232 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

light brown, stirring them occasionally with a wooden spoon. Then 
drain off the butter and moisten them with broth enough to have 
them well covered. When the broth is reduced add a pint of 
Espagnole sauce and let it cook for ten minutes. Then rub it 
through a fine sieve and put the puree in a saucepan. Season it to 
taste. 

pueee of onions (white soubise). 

No. 997. — Peel one dozen large white Onions, cut them in halves, 
trim off the ends, slice them finely, and parboil them for two min- 
utes. Then immerse them in cold water, drain them and dry them 
well on a towel. Then put them in a well buttered saucepan and 
season with salt, nutmeg, a little sugar, and a pinch of red pepper. 
Cover them with a buttered white paper. Then cover the saucepan 
and set it in a slow oven to have the Onions well cooked (being 
careful not to let them get colored). When they are cooked tender 
put them in another saucepan with a quart of Cream sauce (be very 
careful, as they often get a little browned on the bottom). Mix them 
well together and rub the puree through a fine sieve. Then put it 
back in the saucepan to keep warm, and before serving add a piece 
of butter. 

. BEOWN ONION SAUCE. 

No. 998. — Prepare two or three Onions in the same manner as in 
No. 992, and when they are cooked drain off the butter, add four 
spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce, and let it cook for ten minutes. 

Note. — If this sauce is wanted in a hurry prepare them as follows : Toss the Onions lightly in 
butter until nicely browned. Then drain off the butter, add the sauce and let them simmer for 
fifteen minutes. 

WHITE ONION SAUCE. 

No. 999. — When the soubise is to be used for sauce, prepare it in 
the same manner as in No. 997, and add a little chicken broth with 
a few drops of glaze to thin it out a little more. 

BEOWN ONION SAUCE — PIQUANT. 

No. 1000. — Chop six Ked Onions finely, put them in a saucepan 
with a piece of butter and fry them lightly. Then add a wine-glass- 
ful of vinegar and let it reduce to one third. Then add one spoon- 
ful of mustard flour, mix it well, and then, while stirring, add in 
slowly three spoonfuls of veal gravy and four of Espagnole sauce. 
Let it boil slowly for twenty-five minutes, season with salt and 
pepper, rub it through a fine sieve, and keep it warm for use. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 233 

ONIONS FOE GAENITURE. 

No. 1001. — Onions for garniture are prepared in various ways. 
Tiie small white or button Onion is used most. When they are 
peeled, parboil them for five minutes and drain them on a napkin. 
Then put them in a fiat saucepan with a piece of butter, a pinch of 
sugar and a little salt, and moisten them to cover with white broth. 
Set them in a moderate oven to glaze, tossing them over occasionally, 
so they will glaze evenly. These Onions are used with stews, beef 
a la "mode, and for mixed vegetable garnitures. For large garni- 
tures the stufi'ed Onions may be used. For chops or small 
entrees the white or brown puree of Onions soubise is used. 
Small Onions, when plainly boiled and tossed over the fire (with the 
addition of a little Cream or Allemande sauce), may also be used. 

SMALL ONIONS BAKED FOR GARNITURE, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1002. — Select two dozen small white Onions of equal size. 
Put them in a pan and bake them without peeling. When they are 
three-quarters done, peel and put them in a fiat saucepan with half 
a wine-glassful of vinegar. Heduce this, and add a teaspoonful of 
mustard flour. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, and add 
three spoonfuls of veal gravy and six of Espagnole sauce. Let them 
simmer slowly until cooked. 

ONION GRAVY. 

No. 1003. — Cut four Onions in halves and slice them finely. Then 
put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, fry them lightly and 
add a pint of veal gravy. Season with salt and pepper, and when 
it is reduced to one-third, skim ofi" the grease and strain the gravy 
through a towel. 

ONION GRAVY WITH SAGE. 

No. 1004. — Chop three Onions finely with one dozen green sage 
leaves, and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Cover the 
saucepan, and let them simmer slowly. When the Onions are nearly 
cooked (without being browned), add one pint of veal gravy, and 
when it is reduced to one-third skim off the grease and strain the 
gravy through a towel. 

Note.— These gravies are used as an essence that is frequently added to the gravy of Koast Fowl 
or Game. 

ONION JUICE. 

No. 1005. — Peel the Onion and grate it with pressure on a grater 
into an earthern bowl, or slice the Onion finely, put it in a to we], 



234 HAKDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and press the juice into an earthen bowl. This is used in making 
green salads, and is preferred by many who do not like raw Onions. 

ONIONS CHOPPED, FOR FINE HERBS, ETC. 

No. 1006. — Onions should never be chopped (as would be im- 
plied by the term chop), but should be finely cut with a knife. 
When the Onions are peeled, cut them in halves, take one part and 
slice it finely without detaching the pieces; then slice it the same 
way crosswise; then cut straight down. In this way you can make 
the pieces of any desired size, and will always have them uniform 
and perfectly square. If chopped Onions are to be kept for some 
time, dip them in boiling water for one minute, then immerse them 
in cold water, drain them on a towel, and wring the moisture from 
them. In this manner, the Onions will remain white. If treated 
differently, they will soon turn black. 

NEW. GREEN ONIONS FOR RELISH. 

No. 1007. — Remove the outer skin, trim off the tops, wash them 
in cold water, then drain and serve them plain, or slice them. 
Season with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil. Serve them in relish 
dishes, the same as cucumbers. 

ONION PEELINGS, THEIR USE. 

No. 1008. — The Eed Onion peeling is used for coloring Easter 
eggs. Wash the eggs clean and dry them with a towel, being 
careful not to crack them. Put them in a saucepan with plenty of 
the onion peeling, add cold water to cover them, and set them on 
the fire to boil slowly for ten minutes. Then take them off of the 
fire, and when cold, take them out. Wipe them with a towel, on 
which put a few drops of oil, and it will give them a glossy appear- 
ance. 

ONION SOUP. 

No. 1009. — Peel and trim the ends of three medium sized Onions, 
cut them in halves, and slice them finely. Then put them in a 
saucepan with a piece of butter, and fry them to a light brown color. 
Then add two soup-spoonfuls of flour, and let it cook for five minutes, 
while stirring it, and add in slowly three pints of hot broth or water. 
Season with salt and pepper, and let it boil slowly for twenty min- 
utes. Have ready in a soup tureen, half a dozen small pieces of 
toasted bread. Lay a thin slice of fresh butter on each piece, pour 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 235 

the soup into the tureen and cover it, to keep it hot. Serve with 
it a pkite of grated Grujere or Parmesan cheese. 

Note. — The Flour may be omitted and the thin layers of bntter on the toast may be substituted 
by thin layers of Gruyere (Swiss) Cheese. 

ONION SOUP, STANISLAUS STYLE. 

No. 1010. — Butter the crusts of three or four French rolls, and 
set them in an oven to get crisp. Cut off the end parts of four 
medium sized white Onions, peel them, cut them in halves and slice 
them finely. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, 
and fry them Tghtly, stirring them well to have them all nicely 
browned. Then add three pints of hot water, season it with salt 
and pepper, and also add the bread crusts. Cover the saucepan, 
and when it boUs, set it in a moderate oven for half an hour; then 
serve. 

ONION SOUP, WITH MILK. 

No. 1011. — Chop five medium sized Onions finely and put them 
in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Let them cook slowly until 
lightly colored. Then add one glassful of hot water and let them 
cook for fifteen minutes, after which rub them through a fine sieve 
and put the puree back in a saucepan with three pints of boiling 
milk. Set it on the fire, stir it until it boils, and season with salt 
and pepper. Put in a soup tureen some small pieces of toasted 
bread, pour the soup over it, cover the tureen and serve it hot. 

Note.— If the soup is to be sweetened with sugar omit the salt and pepper; use half milk and 
half cream and butter the toast lightly. 

SOUP-PUREE OF ONIONS, BAVARIAN STYLE. 

No. 1012. — Peel six large white Onions, slice them finely, parboil 
them for two minutes, immerse them in cold water and dry them on 
a towel. Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter and 
let them simmer until they are tender (not letting them get browned). 
Then drain off the butter, add a pint of Cream sauce and season 
with salt, a little sugar and a pinch of red pepper. Mix the whole 
well together and rub it through a fine sieve. Put it back into the 
saucepan and add two quarts of thickened chicken or veal broth. 
Set it on the fire, stir it until it boils and then let it cook slowly for 
twenty minutes. Skim it well, and before serving add a piece of 
butter and a large glassful of cream, in which dilute the yolks of 
six raw eggs. Stir it well until the butter is melted, and be care- 
ful not to let it boil again. Serve it with a small plate of fried 
bread crumbs. 



236 HAKDEE's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

SOUP-PUREE OF ONIONS, BRETONNE STYLE. 

No. 1013, — Peel six large red Onions and slice them finely. Put 
them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, and let them cook slowly 
until they are nicely browned. Then add a pint of beef broth and 
reduce it to a glaze, after which add three quarts of broth, in which 
you have cooked a quarter of a pound of split peas. Season with 
salt and pepper, and cook it slowly for fifteen minutes. Then skim 
it well, rub it through a fine sieve and put it back in the saucepan 
to keep warm. If necessary, add a little more broth. Before 
serving, add a piece of butter, mix it well, and serve with it some 
small fried bread crumbs on a plate. 

ONION CUSTARD FOR GARNITURE OF SOUPS. 

No. 1014. — Put in an earthen bowl half a pint of puree of white 
Onions (soubise), for the preparation of which see No. 997. Dilute 
this with four spoonfuls of cream, and add two raw eggs and the 
yolks of ten raw eggs. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of 
nutmeg. Mix the whole well together, and strain it through a fine 
sieve. Butter some small fancy shaped tartlet moulds and fill them 
with this preparation. Then place the moulds in a pan containing 
hot water (being careful not to let any of the water get into the 
moulds). Set them in a moderate oven to cook, but do not let them 
get browned. When they are cooked, turn them out of the moulds 
and let them get cold. Use them as required and directed in the 
Book on Soups. 

ONION SOUP, GAEBURE. 

No. 1015. — Cut the ends off of one dozen medium sized white 
Onions, peel them and slice them in pieces one-eighth of an inch 
thick. Put them in a flat saucepan with some clarified butter and 
fry them to a light brown color. Put in a deep baking dish a layer 
of thin slices of toasted bread and on this a layer of Onions, season- 
ing them with salt and pepper. Then put another layer of toast 
with Onions on it, continuing in this way until the dish is full. 
Moisten it with broth, and set it in the oven to gratinate. Serve 
with this a soup tureen of good beef broth. 

Note.— Care must be taken not to let the Onions get burnt or scorchefl, or they will give the 
garbure a bitter taste. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

No. 1016. — Peel as many small white Onions as you desire fco 
pickle, having them as equal in size as possible (when peeling them 
be very careful not to cut into them). Put them into a strong brine 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 237 

for four or five days, then drain tliem and pour cold water over 
them to refresh theni. Then parboil them for ten minutes and im- 
merse them in cold water, after which dry tliem on a towel. Pick 
the pieces that are likely to come off carefully from the Onions. 
Then put the Onions in glass jars, with a few pepper-corns and some 
blades of mace, and fill the bottles (so as to cover the Onions) with 
boiled wine or cider vinegar. When cold cork them tightly. 

Note.— In boiling the vinegar add half a pound of sugar to each gallon. 
PICKLED ONIONS (ANOTHER WAY). 

No. 1017. — Peel as many small white Onions as you desire to 
pickle, having them as equal in size as possible (be careful not to 
cut into them while peeling). Parboil them in plenty of water for 
five minutes, then immerse them in cold water, after which drain 
and dry them on a towel. Remove the pieces that are likely to 
come off and put the Onions in an earthen bowl. Cover them with 
cold boiled white wine vinegar, and on the following day drain off 
the vinegar and put the Onions in glass jars, with a little salt and 
one bay leaf in each jar. Then boil the vinegar that you drained 
from the Onions, skim it well, and when it is cold pour it over them, 
to cover, and hermetically seal the jars. Keep them in a cool 
place. 

ONION VINEGAR. 

No. 1018.— Peel and slice finely ten large white fresh Onions, put 
them in an earthen jar and add a soup-spoonful of salt and one of 
sugar. Boil two quarts of wine vinegar and pour it over the Onions 
while it is hot. Cover and set them away, and at the expiration of 
two weeks strain and filter the vinegar. Then pour it into bottles, 
adding a small sprig of tarragon to each bottle. Cork the bottles 
tightly and keep them in a cool place. 



ArticIvK CXLII. 



French ORACH OR MOUNTAIN SPINACH. German 

Arroche. Or rack. 

""No. 1019. — Orach is a hardy annual plant. The leaves are 
variously shaped, somewhat oblong, comparatively thin and slightly 
aciduous to the taste. They are prepared for the table in the 



238 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

same way as spinach or sorrel, and are generally mixed with sorrel 
when used in squids or purees, to reduce the acidity. Orach is best 
when grown in a rich, deep and moist soil, and is cultivated in the 
same manner as spinach. 

GEEEN OEACH. 

No. 1020. — This variety grows low and has leaves of a dark green 
color, broad, wrinkled, slightly toothed and bluntly pointed. 

LUEID OEACH. 

No. 1021. — The leaves are of a pale, purple color tinged with 
dark green, being slightly wrinkled, pointed and toothed on the 
borders toward the base, which forms two acute angles. 

PUEPLE OEACH. 

No. 1022. — The leaves have a dull, dark purple color and are 
more wrinkled and deeper toothed than the other sorts. They 
change to a green color when boiled. 

EED ORACH. 

No. 1023. — The leaves are oblong heart-shaped, somewhat wrink- 
led and slightly toothed on the margin. Its upper surface is of a 
very dark dingy purple color. They change to green when boiled. 

EED STALKED GEEEN OEACH. 

No. 1024. — The leaves are dark green, tinged with a dull brown, 
are wrinkled and toothed, somewhat curled and of a tall growth. 

EED STALKED WHITE OEACH. 

No. 1025. — This variety is oi a dwarfish growth, with heart-shaped 
leaves of a yellowish green tinged with brown, the margins being 
stained with purple, 

WHITE OEACH. 

No. 1026.^ — ^ White Orach is of comparatively low growth. The 
leaves are pale green or yellowish green in color, wrinkled, with 
long tapering points, plainly toothed towards the base which forms 
two acute angles. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 239 



Article CXLIII 



French ORRIS, OR IRIS ROOT. German 

Iris, or Fleur cle Lis. Irris. 

No. 1027. — This is a geuus of bulbous or tuberous rooted plants, 
the roots of which liave an agreeable odor, resembling that of violets. 
The best variety comes from Florence, Italy. It is easily distin- 
guished by its large white roots. As it will keep long and retains, 
its flavor, it is substituted for the violet, which loses its flavor in a 
short time. The root, when ground into a flour, is extensively used 
by pastry cooks for various preparations. 



AkXICIvK CXIvIV. 



OXALIS (TUBEROUS ROOTED WOOD SORREL). 

Oxalis. Oxalis. 

No. 1028. — This is a perennial plant that is cultivated in Mexico- 
and the Southern part of the Pacific Coast. The stalk is one foot 
in height, with smooth and branching leaves, four together. The 
leaflets are wedge-shaped, of a pale yellowish-green color, the upper 
surface being marked by two brownish lines. The flowers are of a 
carmine rose color, stained with green at the base of the petals. 
The roots are fusiform, from three to four inches long and an inch 
and a half in diameter. They are white and fleshy, and are sur- 
mounted with numerous small scales or bulbs, which serve for 
prapagation. The roots are boiled and served with Cream or Butter 
sauce. The young leaves and flowers, which have a pleasant acid 
taste, are used as salad. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1029. — The plant succeeds best in rich, warm, mellow soil. 
Plant them in May, six inches apart in drills that are fifteen inches 
wide. Let them remain in the ground until in danger of freezing, 
or until November. Pack them in dry sand and keep them in the^ 
cellar for winter use. 



240 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 



i 



A.rt:iclk CXLV. 



Freiach PAK-CHOI. GermaD 

Pak Choi. Pakchoi. 

No. 1030. — Pak-Clioi is an annual plant, a native of China. The 
root leaves are oval, regular, smooth and deep green, with long, 
naked, fleshy, white stems, somewhat similar to those of the Swiss- 
chard or leaf beets. The leaves are eaten boiled, like Cabbage, 
but are much more tender and of a more agreeable flavor. It is 
sown in April in hills or drills, and should be thinned out to twelve 
inches apart. 



ArticIvK cxlvi. 



PALMATE-LEAVED RHUBARB. 

Rhuharbe des Moines. Bhaharber. 

No. 1031. — This species is readily distinguished by its deeply 
divided or palmate leaves, and is the variety from which the dried 
root chiefly used in medicine, is obtained. The roots are thick and 
succulent, with a brownish skin and light yellow flesh, streaked or 
variegated with red. The Rhubarb from Turkey is generally 
preferred, but its superiority is, to a great degree, attributable to 
the manner in which it is dried. Like the Pie Rhubarb, it requires 
a deep, rich soil, and will not be ready for taking up until five years 
old. 



Article CXivVIl. 



PALM CABBAGE. 

Choux Palmiste. Palm Kohl. 

No. 1032. — This variety of Cabbage is very popular in Holland, 
but in this country it is only grown in gardens. When young it is 
very tender, and is prepared the same as other green cabbage. 
The plant grows to a height of three feet. The leaves are straight, 
and of a dark green color, with strong ribs resembling those of palm 
leaves, from which it takes its name. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 241 



Article CXLVIII. 



Frcncli PARSLEY. German 

Persil. Peter silie. 

No. 1033. — Parsley is one of the most useful vegetables. Its 
leaves are used in cookery for garnishing and flavoring purposes, 
and its roots are used in medicine as an aperient. It is a native of 
Sardinia, but ilourishes in almost every part of the world. It is an 
umbelliferous plant having a biennial root, with an annual, round, 
furrowed, jointed, erect, branching stem, about two feet in height. 
All parts of the plant contain a volatile oil, to which it owes its 
odor and mainly its taste. It excites the appetite and accelerates 
digestion. There are six varieties. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1034. — The seed is slow in germinating, and should be sown 
early in spring, in rich, mellow soil. When the plants are two 
inches high transplant them. The oftener they are transplanted 
and cut back the finer and more perfect the leaves will be. Hand- 
some foliage is formed when the plants are well grown. 

FINE TRIPLED CURLED. 

No. 1035. — This is a fine dwarfish curled variety, which, when 
well grown, resembles a tuft of finely curled moss. It is hardy and 
slow in running to seed, but is liable to degenerate, as it constantly 
tends to increase in size and to become less curled. 

carter's fern leaved. 

No. 1036. — A variety of beautiful form and color, which is well 
adapted for garnishing. It is an ornamental garden plant. 

PLAIN parsley. 

\ ■ 

No. 1037. — This kind is hardier than the curled varieties; is good 
for flavoring, but has plain leaves. 

HAMBURG, OR TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No. 1038. — This is a fleshy, rooted variety, the roots of which are 
used for flavoring soups. 
16 



242 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 



FAGGOT OP PAESLEY. 



No. 1039. — A faggot of Parsley generally consists of a bunch of 
green Parsley, in the center of which a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, 
-and a few grains of cloTes are put, the bunch being tied together 
with a string. It is used for flavoring soups, stews, etc. The edges 
.should always be nicely trimmed. Celery and leeks are sometimes 



added to the faggot. 



CHOPPED PAESLEY. 



No. 1040. — Take fresh Parsley leaves, wash them in cold water 
and dry them on a towel. Chop them finely on a clean board, then 
put the Parsley in a towel and wring out all of the moisture. Then 
put it in a bowl and keep it ready for use. When chopped Parsley 
is used for sauces it should be dipped in boiling water for a minute, 
then immersed in cold water and wrung dry in a towel. By doing 
this it will retain its green color. 

FEIED PAESLEY FOE GAENISHING. 

No. 1041. — Pick and wash a bunch of Parsley and dry it in a 
towel. Have some hot lard or grease in a frjdng-pan on the fire, 
and put the Parsley into it. As soon as it is crisp, take it out and 
drain it on a napkin. Care must be taken to have the lard or 
grease very hot, as one minute is sufficient to fry the Parsley, 
which, if fried longer, will turn to a dark brown color. If the 
Parsley is not fresh, it will assume the same color. 

PAESLEY FOE GARNISHING. 

No. 1042. — Take one bunch of curled Parsley, wash it in cold 
water, drain it and put it in a bowl with a piece of ice. When Pars- 
ley remains in water too long, it acquires a bad odor. When gar- 
nishing dishes, which are to be covered and have to remain for 
some time before serving, it is best to use fried Parsley. Fresh 
Parsley is best as a garniture for cold dishes of meat. Parsley 
stems are cut two inches long and put into croquettes, when 
made in pear-shape, to imitate pear stems. 



Article CXivlX. 



Frcucli PARSNIPS, German 

Panais. Pastinake. 

No. 1043. — The Parsnip is a hardy biennial plant that is much 

cultivated in this countrv. The roots are considered healthful and 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 243 

are esteemed for their delicate and pleasant flavor. They are used 
as a vegetable and as an ingredient in soups. • 

CULTURE. 

No. 1044. — Parsnips succeed best in a deep, free, rich soil. That 
which has been heavily manured for a previous crop should be 
selected. Sow them in drills from fifteen to eighteen inches apart, 
as early in spring as the ground can be found in fair working con- 
dition. When the plants are about two inches high thin them out 
to six or eight inches apart. The roots are hardy and improve by 
remaining in the ground through the winter. 

LONG SMOOTH YELLOW. 

No. 1045. — The roots are oblong, ending somewhat abruptly with 
a small top root. It grows mostly below the surface, has a very 
smooth clear skin, and is easily distinguished by the leaves arising 
from a cavity on the top or crown of the root. 

LONG WHITE DUTCH. 

No. 1046. — The roots are very long, white, smooth, tender, sugary, 
and most excellently flavored, being very hardy, and will keep 
through the winter without protection. 

THE STUDENT. 

No. 1047. — A finely flavored variety, especially for table use. 

SHOKT ROUND FRENCH. 

No. 1048. — One of the earliest varieties. 

PARSNIPS, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 1049. — Scrape the Parsnips well, then cut them in pieces 
two inches long and slice them not too thin. Put them in a pan 
with cold acidulated water. Have in a saucepan on the fire some 
boiling water. Add to it a little vinegar and salt, the Parsnips and 
a piece of butter, and cook them on a brisk fire until tender; then 
drain them and return them to the saucepan. Add Butter sauce, 
season with salt and pepper, toss them well together and serve. 



244 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

feied paesnips. 

No. 1050. — Prepare the Parsnips in the same manner as in No^ 
1049, and when they are cooked drain them and put them in a- 
bowl. Season them and add a little fine chopped parsley or chervil 
and the juice of two lemons. When ready for use dip them in a 
light batter and fry them in hot lard. Serve them on a napkin and 
garnish them with fried parsley. 

Note. — When Parsnips are to be cooked and kept for a day or two add a white thickening when 
the water boils, and when the Parsnips are cooked, pour them into a pan or an earthern jar and_ 
cover it with a buttered paper coyer. Use them as needed. 

MASHED PAESNIPS. 

No. 1051. — Scrape and wash the Parsnips, cut them in small 
pieces, boil them in water lightly salted, add a piece of butter, and 
when they are cooked drain them. Remove the fibrous parts and 
rub the Parsnips through a fine colander. Put them back in the- 
saucepan, add a piece of butter and a little cream, season with salt 
and pepper, and warm them thoroughly while stirring. 

PAESNIP FEITTEES. 

No. 1052. — Prepare the Parsnips as in No. 1051, and when rubbed 
through the colander set them aside to cool, and to each pound of 
mashed Parsnips add eight well beaten raw eggs. Mis the eggs 
and Parsnips well together and add flour enough to make the whole 
into a light batter. Fry them in hot lard and aerve them on a, 
napkin. 



Article cl. 



Fremch PATIENCE. German 

Patience. Gartenampfer . 

No 1053. — A hardj perennial plant, not cultivated much in this 
country. When fully developed it is from four to five feet high. 
The leaves, which are large, long and broad pointed, are more 
succulent and tender, and attain a much larger size, when the flow- 
ering shoots are cut ofl" as they make their appearance. The plant, 
is hardy, and if cut over regularly will continue healthy and 
productive for a few years. The leaves are used the same as 
spinach, and are put forth quite early in spring. They should be 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 245 

used when young and tender and mixed with sorrel. Patience Dock 
is much used by the Swedes, prepared in this manner, and is much 
esteemed in their country. 



ARTICIvK CIvI. 



rrench * PEA-NUT. German 

Aracliis. Erdnus. 

No. 1054. — The Pea-nut is an annual plant, a native of Central 
America and Africa. The stem, when full grown, is about fourteen 
inches in height. The leaves are primate, with four leaflets, and a 
leafy, emarginate appendage at the base of the petals. The fruit 
or pod is of an oblong form, often contracted at the middle, but 
sometimes of bottle form, reticulated, and of a yellowish color. 
The kernels, of which the pod contains from one to three, are 
oblong, quite white, and are enclosed in a thin brown skin or 
pellicule. A remarkable peculiarity of this plant is that the lower 
blossoms alone produce the fruit. After the decay of the petals 
the ovaries insinuate themselves into the ground, beneath which at 
a depth of several inches, the fruit is afterwards perfected. They 
a,re eaten roasted, and are used by confectioners, and for culinary 
purposes as a substitute for almonds. 

CULTUKE. 

No. 10j5. — The Pea-nut succeeds well only in warm climates. 
Plant them as early as the weather becomes suitable, in a warm, 
light, loamy soil, deeply ploughed and pulverized, in rows a foot 
apart. In planting, the Pea-nut should be unbroken in the pod, and 
as soon as the flower appears the vines are earthed up from time to 
time, so as to keep them chiefly within the ground. 

AFKICAN PEA-NUT. 

No. 1056. — A comparatively small, smooth, and regularly formed 
sort. The shell is thin, usually enclosing two kernels. 

WILMINGTON PEA-NUT. 

No. 1057. — Similar to the African. The pods, however, are 
longer, and the shell thicker and paler. They enclose two or three 
kernels. They are cultivated largely in the Southern States. 



246 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

TENNESSEE PEA-NUT. I 

No. 1058. — The pods are large, tliick, and irregular in form, and 
■usually contain two kernels. This variety is less esteemed than the 
others. 



ARTICIvE civil. 



French PKAS. Geruiau 

Pois. Erbsen. 

No. 1059. — The Pea is a hardy annual plant, and its cultiva- 
tion is almost universal. The green Pea is a delicious vegeta- 
ble, and is highly esteemed for its flavor and taste. To have them 
in perfection they must be plucked before they mature, and should 
be shelled and cooked as soon after as possible, as they lose much 
of their tenderness and flavor if kept for any length of time. The 
fact that those brought from a distance seldom reach the markets 
in their perfect state is an objection to their use, which, coupled 
with the knowledge that when they are closely packed they become 
intensely overheated and are rendered devoid of taste and unwhole- 
some, deters many from using this popular vegetable. When sent 
from a distance they should be packed in open baskets (not in boxes, 
barrels or sacks), and laid in layers two inches deep, alternating 
with layers of clean straw. There are hundreds of varieties, but 
they differ very little from each other. New kinds are introduced 
annually, each claiming to be superior sorts, but the locality has a 
great deal to do with their quality. The field Peas can be used in 
their dry state for purees and soups, but they are not as easily 
digested as the other kinds. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1060. — Peas come earliest to maturity in light rich soil. For 
a general crop a deep loam or a soil strongly inclining to clay is best. 
For an early crop decomposed leaves or leaf mold should be used, 
or, if the soil is very poor, stronger manure may be used. For 
general crops a good dressing should be applied, and for the dwarf 
growing kinds the soil cannot be too rich. When grown as a 
maiket crop Peas are never staked, and are sown in single rows 
two or three inches deep and from two to three feet apart, according 
to variety or the strength of the soil. When grown in small 
quantities for private use, they are generally sown in double rows 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 247 

six or eight inches apart, and the tall varieties are staked up with 
brush. For an early crop sow them in February, March or April, 
according to latitude, as soon as the ground can be worked. Make 
repeated sowings every two weeks in succession. After the first of 
June, sowing should be discontinued until the middle of August, 
when a good crop may sometimes be secured by sowing an early 
sort. 

EXTRA EARLY SORTS. 

THE AMEEICAN WONDER. 

No. 1061. — A highly improved variety, with stout branching vines 
that grow early, about nine inches high, and are covered with long 
well filled pods. The Peas are of the best quality. 

KENTISH INVICTA. 

No. 1062. — A round blue Pea, about two feet in height, with 
straight, well filled pods. It is the earliest of the blue sorts, and is 
superior in flavor to any of the white varieties. 

laxton's alpha. 

No. 1063. — This is the earliest wrinkled Pea known, and is about 
three feet in height. The seeds are indented and wrinkled, of a 
light blue color and delicious flavor. A good variety. 

EARLY TOM THUMB. 

No. 1064. — The seeds are small and round, but are not always of 
good quality. 

BLUE PETER. 

No. 1065. — One of the best of the dwarf varieties, and a great 
producer. The seeds are large, blue, round and somewhat wrinkled. 

EXTRA EARLY. 

No. 1066. — This variety furnishes Peas as early as any variety. 
The Peas are large and the pods continue bearing for ten days. 

EARLY SORTS. 

LITTLE GEM. 

No. 1067. — A desirable dwarf, green, wrinkled vaiiety, about 
fifteen inches high. In its green state, the Peas are large and 
sweet. 



'248 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

PREMIUM GREEN. 

No. 1068. — This resembles the Little Gem, but has heavier and 
more prolific vines and larger pods. They fully equal the later 
sorts in quality. 

m'lean advancer. 

No. 1069. — A green wrinkled varietj^, nearly three feet high, with 
long, broad pods, which are well filled. Their flavor is excellent 
and they are considered by many to be the best of their season. 

carter's little wonder. 

No. 1070. — This is a sweet, wrinkled Pea about two feet in 
height, being very early and having a delicious flavor. 

EARLY PHILADELPHIA. 

No. 1071. — A variety that is in demand in the vicinity of Phila- 
delphia. It is prolific and of very good flavor. 

DWARF champion. 

No. 1072. — A prolific variety of good quality and flavor. The 
Peas are white, shriveled and indented. 

LATE SORTS. 

champion of ENGLAND. 

No. 1073. — This is one of the best flavored Peas, being equal to 
any in quality and more in demand than other varieties. It is very 
productive, and from four to five feet in height. The seeds are 
shriveled and of a whitish green color. 

LARGE BLUE IMPERIAL. 

No. 1074. — One of the best summer varieties, a good bearer, very 
strong, and about three feet high. The pods are large, long, pointed 
and somewhat flat, and contain about ten large, blue, flattened 
Peas. 

LARGE WHITE MxiREOWFAT. 

No. 1075. — This is a prolific bearer, of strong growth, and is 
about five feet in height. It is cultivated more extensively for 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 249 

summer crop than aii}^ other variety. The pods are large, round, 
light colored, and well filled, with large, blue, slightly flattened 
Peas. 

DWARF MARROWFAT. 

No. 1076. — This variety is earlier than the White Marrowfat, but 
is similar to it in character and appearance, except in its dwarf 
growth. It will not require bushing. 

LARGE RLACK-EYED MARROWFAT. 

No. 1077. — A prolific and excellent mammoth variety, about five 
feet in height, with large, full pods. 

YORKSHIRE HERO. 

No. 1078. — The vines are stout and about two feet high, bearing 
at the top a number of broad pods filled with large Peas, which 
keep in season a long time, and do not become hard. They are of 
fine quality and are preferred over all others by those who like a 
marrow-like Pea. 

EDIBLE PODDED SORTS. 

DWARF GRAY SUGAR. 

No. 1079. — This is an early, prolific variety, and grows about two 
feet in height. The pods are broad, flat and crooked, containing 
about six Peas, of a dark brown color, that are large, shriveled, and 
indented. 

TALL SUGAR. 

No. 1080. — This variety grows about five feet in height, is very 
sweet and tender. The pods and Peas are eaten. 

FIELD SORTS. 

No. 1081.— Of the many Field Sorts the Golden Wine, the Crown, 
the Parisian Blue, the Creepers, the Common White, and the Com- 
mon Blue, are perhaps the best varieties in cultivation. In their 
dry state they are used in soups, purees, etc. 

GREEN PEAS, ENGLISH STYLE. 

No. 1082. — Have two gallons of boiling wate^* in a saucepan on a 
brisk fire, and add to it five pounds of shelled green Peas, a faggot 



250 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

of parsley garnislied with a head of lettuce, and a few green onions, 
and season it with a little salt. Let them boil until tender, then 
drain them, take out the faggot and dish up the Peas, with a piece 
of butter in the middle and a piece on top. 

Note.— A sprig of mint may be added with the faggot, or some finely chopped mint may be 
sprinkled over the Peas. This is merely a matter a taste. 

GREEN PEAS, PARISIAN STYLE. 

No. 1083. — Put into a saucepan five pounds of green Peas, one 
quart of water and six ounces of butter. Put the pan on a brisk 
fire, add a faggot of parsley garnished with a head of lettuce and a 
few green onions. Toss them over occasionally, and when cooked 
add four ounces of butter, into which mix two spoonfuls of flour. 
Toss the Peas well over until the butter is melted, then let them 
cook fifteen minutes longer, and season with salt, pepper and a little 
sugar. Should the Peas become too thick add a little hot water. 

GREEN PEAS, FAMILY STYLE. 

No. 1084. — Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter, and when 
it is melted, add two spoonfuls of flour. Mix them well together, 
stirring with a wooden spoon, and let it cook slowly until lightly 
colored. Then add five pounds of Peas, and in two or three minutes 
add one quart of boiling water. Season with salt, pepper and a 
pinch of sugar, and add a faggot of parsley garnished with a head 
of lettuce. When the Peas are cooked, take out the faggot and add 
one cupful of cream into which dilute the yolks of three raw eggs. 
Toss them well together, not letting them cook any more. 

GREEN PEAS WITH CREAM, SHARON STYLE. 

No. 1085. — Peas cooked in this style must be served as soon as 
cooked or they will lose their delicacy. 

Put into a saucepan two pounds of fresh young Peas, a tumbler 
of cold water, a piece of butter and a head of lettuce, into which tie 
a sprig of green thyme. Cover the saucepan, put them on a brisk 
fire and toss them over occasionally. When they are cooked take 
out the lettuce, season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and 
add a cup of double cream, into which dilute the yolks of two raw 
eggs. Toss them well together off of the fire, and serve with small 
pieces of toasted bread around the dish. 

GREEN PEAS WITH BACON. 

No. 1086. — Cut into small square pieces a quarter of a pound of 
lean bacon (previously parboiled for two minutes), and put them 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 251 

into a saucepan. Add three pounds of green Peas and moisten 
with a quart of boiling broth. Set the pan on a brisk fire, add a 
faggot of parsley garnished with green onions and a head of lettuce > 
and season witl\ salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. When thor- 
oughly cooked, take out the faggot, and dish them up with braised 
lettuce around the dish. 

GREEN PEAS FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1087. — When the Peas are cooked, as in No. 1082, immerse 
them in cold water, then drain them and sel; them aside, covering 
them with a napkin until ready to use. When ready to use them, 
put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter, and season with 
salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Toss them over the fire until 
thoroughly warmed, and when serving add some fine chopped 
parsley. 

Note. — Cream, Allemancle, or Espagnole sauce may be added if desired. 

PUREE OF GREEN PEAS, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1088. — Cook two pounds of Green Peas as in No. 1082. 
When cooked drain them and put them into a saucepan with four 
spoonfuls of Cream sauce; season with salt, pepper and a pinch of 
sugar. Mix them well together and rub them through a fine sieve. 
Put the puree back into the saucepan to keep warm and before 
serving add a piece of Butter. 

Note. — Wlieii the puree is rubbed through a fine sieve, put it in a flat saucepan, add half a pint 
of cream, and set the pan on a brisk fire to reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Before 
serving, add a piece of butter. This puree will be found more succulent than the foregoing. 

SOUP — PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. 

No. 1089. — Put into a saucepan two gallons of water with a little 
salt, and when it boils add five pounds of fresh Peas, a faggot of 
parsley garnished with a few green onions, and a head of lettuce. 
As soon as the Peas are tender, remove the faggot, drain 
them and rub them through a fine sieve. Put the puree in 
a saucepan and add three quarts of lightly thickened chicken 
or veal broth. Set it on the fire and stir it until it boils; then 
let it boil slowly for twenty minutes and season with salt, 
pepper and a pinch of sugar. Before serving add half a pound 
of butter, divided into small pieces, and stir it well until the butter 
is melted. Serve small fried bread crumbs with it. 



"252 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

SOUP — PUREE OF GREEN PEAS, ST. GERMAIN. 

No. 1090. — Cook the Peas as in No. 1089. When tender drain 
them, take out the faggot, pat the puree back into the saucepan and 
add two quarts of Cream sauce, diluted with chicken broth to its 
consistency. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar. Rub 
it through a fine sieve, put it back into the saucepan and keep it 
warm in a hot water bath. Before serving add a piece of butter 
and stir it well until the butter is melted. This soup should have 
i\ bright, green color (if necessary use green color of spinach. 
Serve with small balls of forced meat of chicken, poached in broth. 

Note. — In making this soup two and a half pounds of Peas, and two and a half pounds of green 
asparagus tops may he used. 

SOUP — PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS. 

No. 1091. — Carefully sort three pounds of yellow dried Peas, 
Avash them well, let them soak for five hours in cold water, and then 
drain them. Put them into a saucepan with three quarts of cold 
water, or use half water and half broth. Add a faggot of parsley 
garnished with one leek and some celery, two onions with four 
cloves in each, two carrots, and a piece of parboiled salt pork, or 
bacon. Cover the saucepan, let them cook slowly until thorouglily 
done, and then take out the faggot, carrots, onions, and pork or 
bacon. Add some plain broth to give the puree its proper con- 
sistency, and season with salt and pepper. Then rub it through a 
iine sieve and put it back in the saucepan, stirring it well until it 
boils. Then let it simmer slowly for half an hour and add a piece 
of butter. Before serving, cut the pork or bacon in small pieces, 
fry them crisp, drain them, mix some small fried bread crumbs with 
them, and put them in the snup, or serve them on a plate, as may 
be desired. 

SOUP — PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS, WITH JULIENNE SOUP, CONDE. 

No. 1092. — This soup is a puree of split Peas, into which half of 
its quantity of Julienne soup is added. 

SOUP — PUREE OF DRIED GREEN PEAS, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 1093. — Pick and wash four pounds of the Peas, put them into 
a saucepan and boil them in three quarts of water or broth. 
Garnish with a faggot of vegetables tied together, season with salt, 
and let them cook slowly until tender. Then remove the faggot, and 
add broth enough to bring the soup to its proper consistency. Rub 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 253^ 

it through a fine sieve, return it to the saucepan, and set it on the 
fire to boil for twenty minutes, then skim it well and add a piece of 
butter and two handfuls of boiled rice. A ham-bone or piece of 
pork may be cooked with the soup if desired. 

PRESERVED GREEN PEAS. 

No. 1094. — Have the Peas freshly plucked and shelled, and 
uniform in size. Put them into boiling water, lightly salted, and 
when they are three-quarters cooked, drain them. Then dry them 
on a towel, and when they are cold, put them into quart tin cans.. 
Cover the Peas in the cans with cold boiled water, adding to each 
can a little salt and a pinch of carbonate of soda. Cover the can& 
hermetically, and boil them in a hot water bath for two hours. 



Article CLIII. 



Frei:c:i PENNYROYAL. German 

Pouliot. Polti. 

No. 1095. — Pennyroyal possesses a warm, pungent, aromatic taste, 
and is used exclusively for medical purposes. An infusion of the 
leaves is stimulating, sudorific, tonic and beneficial in colds and 
chills. It is a small, branching, annual plant, common to gravelly 
localities and abounding towards autumn in dry fields, where crops, 
of wheat or rye have been recently harvested. 



Article CLIV. 



PEPPER. 

Poivre et Piment. Pfeffer. 

No. 1096. — There are many varieties of Pepper, both annual and 
perennial, the latter being of a shrubby or woody character, and 
as it is a tropical plant, it is tender. The annual varieties can be 
grown in the Middle and Southern States successfully. 

The annual, or commoa garden Pepper, is a native of India. 

Pepper is used more than any other spice. There are three kinds 
in use — the White, Black, and Ked. It facilitates digestion and 



254: HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

corrects flatulency. In warm countries it is used in great quantities, 
but for good cooking it should be used with moderation, and 
persons of nervous debility should abstain from using any. For 
persons living on plain food, and having out-of-door work, it 
imparts vitality, and is very beneficial. There are also a large 
variety of Peppers eaten and prepared in their green state, and put 
up like pickles. The large Bell Peppers are stuffed and used as a 
vegetable, and are also excellent for pickling, and when sliced are 
much esteemed in salads, in connection with tomatoes and cucumbers. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1097. — Sow in hot beds early in April, and transplant to the 
open ground when the weather is favorable. They should be 
planted in warm, mellow soil, in rows eighteen inches apart, or they 
may be sown in the open ground, when danger of frost is past, and 
the soil is warm and the weather settled. 

CHILI. 

No. 1098. — This variety has sharply conical pods of a brilliant 

scarlet color, which are exceedingly pungent when ripe. They are 

principally used in making Pepper sauce. The plants should be 
started early in hot beds. 

LONG RED CAYENNE. 

No. 1099. — This kind has a long, slim, pointed pod, and when 
ripe, is of a bright red color. The flavor is strong and pungent. 

LARGE SQUASH. 

No. 1100. — The fruit is large, flat and tomato-shaped, more or 
less ribbed, with a smooth and glossy skin. The flesh is mild, 
thick-meated and pleasant to the taste, although it possesses more 
pungency than many of the other varieties. 

GOLDEN DAWN. 

No. 1101. — This kind resembles the Large Bell in size and shape, 
and has a beautiful golden yellow color. The flavor is pleasant 
and delicate. 

LARGE BELL. 

No. 1102. — A large sort of square form, tapering to a point. It 
is an early variety, less pungent than most kinds, and is thick and 
hard. It is suitable for tilling with cabbage, etc. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 255 

SWEET MOUNTAIN. 

No. 1103. — Tliis is similar to the Bell Pepper in sliape and color, 
but is large and milder in flavor. 

CRANBEREY. 

No. 1104. — The fruit resembles the cranberry in appearance, and 
is a good variety for pickling. 

GEOSSUM. 

No. 1105. — A large French variety of irregular shape, which is 
good for mangoes. 

CHERRY, OR LITTLE GEM. 

No. 1106. — The fruit or berries are of a globular form, about 
the size of a large red currant, and of a brilliant scarlet hue. 
They are produced in the greatest profusion, and will be found 
useful in the preparation of pepper sauces, and when pickled as 
soon as plucked. To prepare them for use in their dry state, it is 
only necessary to cut the plants close to the roots when the fruit is 
ripe. String the berries and hang them up in a warm, dry room. 
They will retain their piquancy for years. The plant is so beautiful 
that when grown in pots it will always prove ornamental; the 
glossy, coral red of the numerous pods presenting a fine contrast 
to the deep green foliage surrounding them. 

CHILI PEPPERS PRESERVED IN VINEGAR. 

No. 1107. — Select small Chili Peppers, all of the same size, cut 
the ends and put the Peppers into pint bottles. Fill them to cover 
with wine vinegar, cork the bottles tightly, and in six weeks the 
Peppers will be ready for use. 

CHILI PEPPER VINEGAR. 

No. 1108. — Put into a demijohn a quarter of an ounce of dried 
marigolds, one clove of garlic, three shallots, a few grains of 
pepper, four cloves, and one and a half pounds of Chili Peppers, 
from which cut off the ends. Then add one gallon of wine vinegar 
and cork the demijohn tightly. Six weeks after strain the vinegar 
through a filter and put it into bottles. 



256 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



PEPPER VINEGAR. 



No. 1109. — Out one dozen bell Peppers and half a dozen long- 
green Peppers in slices, and put them in a jar with half a dozen 
pepper-corns. Boil six pints of vinegar, to which add two ounces 
of sugar, and as soon as it boils pour it over the Peppers. When it 
is cool cover the pot and set it away for two weeks; then strain the 
vinegar through a filter, put it in bottles and cork them tightly. 

PRESERVED PICKLED BELL PEPPERS. 

No. 1110. — Take one hundred fresh green pods, slice them down 
on one side, cut off the stems, take out the seeds, and put them in 
a small barrel, or earthen jar. Cover them with cold brine. 
Ten hours after this drain off the brine, add the same 
quantity of fresh brine, and let it stand in a cool place. The fol- 
lowing day drain them on a towel for half an hour, and then put 
them into glass jars. Boil the quantity of wine vinegar required to 
cover them, and when the vinegar is cold pour it over the Peppers 
and cover them tight. Six weeks after being put into the jars they 
will be ready for use. They are much esteemed by epicures. 

PRESERVED STUFFED PICKLED BELL PEPPERS. 

No. 1111. — Cut the stems from one hundred Bell Peppers, then 
slice the tops without detaching them, scoop out the seeds, and put 
them in a brine of the same kind as in No. 1110, then drain them. 
Cut the white part of three heads of cabbage into small, fine shreds, 
parboil them for five minutes, then immerse them in cold water, 
and drain them dry. Then season with a little salt. Stuff the 
Peppers with the cabbage, covering it with the undetached slices 
of the Peppers. Arrange them in jars and pour over them, to cover, 
some cold boiled vinegar. Cover them tightly, and in tw'^o months 
they will be ready for use. 

PICKLED STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, SHARON STYLE. 

No. 1112. — Prepare the Peppers in the same manner as in No. 
1111. Cut the tender parts of two heads of cabbage into tine shreds, 
parboil them for five minutes and drain them in a colander. Then 
put the cabbage in an earthen bowl, and add to it four ounces of 
white mustard seed, two ounces of celery seed, and four soup- 
spoonfuls of grated horse-radish. Season with a little salt, and 
mis the whole well together. Stuff the Peppers with this preparation 
and in the center of each place a small onion or a pickle. Tie the 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 257 

cover on with a string, arrange them nicely in jars, and pour over 
them cold boiled vinegar to cover them. Hermetically seal the jars. 

HOW TO MAKE RED PEPPER. 

No. 1113. — The pods of the cherry Peppers will furnish a quality 
of Cayenne Pepper superior to that ordinarily sold. The larger 
and milder kinds are powdered in the same manner and make a 
wholesome and pleasant quality of Pepper, sufficiently pungent for 
ordinary use. 

BROILED BELL PEPPERS. 

No. 1114. — Dip the Peppers in boiling water and then peel them. 
Broil them on a slow fire and serve them on toast, with a little 
melted butter, into which add a little fine chopped parsley. 

STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1115. — Select one dozen nicely shaped Bell Peppers, slice off 
the tops and scoop out the seeds. Chop two onions finely and put 
them into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them lightly and 
then add a handful of fine chopped mushrooms. Cover the sauce- 
pan, and when the moisture is reduced add four spoonfuls of reduced 
Allemande sauce, a handful of fresh bread crumbs, and season with 
salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Mix them well together, 
then take the saucepan off of the fire and add the yolks of two raw 
eggs and some finely Chopped parsley, and stir them well together. 
Stuff the Peppers and arrange them in a buttered baking pan. 
Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them, put a piece of butter on 
each one, then bake them in a moderate oven, and when nicely 
browned serve them on a dish with a teaspoonful of veal gravy over 
each one. 

STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1116. — Prepare the Peppers as in No. 1115, then prepare a 
forced-meat of veal (Godiveau), to which add some cooked fine herbs. 
Cover each with a thin slice of fat pork, and then arrange them on 
a flat saucepan. Moisten them with veal gravy, then cover them 
with a buttered paper and bake them slowly until they are nicely 
glazed. Dish them up with a reduced Espagnole sauce. 

STUFFED BELL PEPPERS, BRAZILIAN STYLE. 

No. 1117. — Prepare one dozen Peppers as in No. 1115. Chop 
one onion finely and put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter. 
17 



258 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Put on the cover and let it simmer. When the onion is half cooked 
add half its quantity of finely chopped mushrooms and the same 
quantity of green Peppers. Let this simmer until the moisture is 
reduced. Then add four spoonfuls of Allemande sauce and a 
handful of fresh bread crumbs. Season with salt and nutmeg, and 
add some finely chopped parsley and a small pinch of garlic. Mix 
them well together while adding the yolks of two raw eggs. Then 
stuff the Peppers, covering each one with a thin slice of fat pork. 
Arrange them in a buttered flat sauce pan, bake them in a moderate 
oven and serve them Avith a brown Italian sauce. 

GREEN PEPPERS, FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1118. — For large garnitures the stuffed Peppers described in 
Nos. 1115, 1116 and 1117, are used, alternated with stuft'ed tomatoes 
or mushrooms. For boiled meats use them as in No. 1114. 

PEPPERS FOR RELISHES. 

So, 1119. — Trim the stems off, and if the Peppers are large cut, 
them in four or six pieces. Remove the seeds and then serve them 
on a relish dish, garnished with radishes. When pickled Peppers 
are used, first dry them in a napkin and then slice them, adding a 
little oil, vinegar and salt. The large bell Peppers are broiled first, 
then peeled and sliced and seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper and. 
salt. 

TO MAKE WHITE PEPPER. 

No. 1120. — Soak some pepper-corns in cold water until the skin, 
is tender, then peel and dry them and grind them in a coffee mill. 



Articlk CIvV. 



PEPPERMINT. 

3Ienth Poivree. Pfeffermilnze^. 

No. 1121. — Peppermint is a hardy perennial plant introduced 
into this country from Europe. It grows naturally and abundantly 
along the banks of small streams and in rich wet localities. AVhen 
once established, it spreads rapidly, and will remain for a long 
period. The stems are smooth, erect, four-sided, and from two to 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 259 

three feet in height. The leaves have an agreeable odor and a 
peculiarly warm pleasant flavor. The plant is principally used for 
distillation, being cultivated for this purpose, and will bear from 
four to five years by proper attention. The best quality of oil is 
produced during the first year. 



ARTICIvK CLVI. 



French PE TSAI. German 

Choux Pitsai. Chinesichen Kohl. 

No. 1122. — This is an annual plant, a native of China. The 
leaves are of an oval form, rounded at the ends, somewhat blistered 
on the surface, and at the center are collected into a long and rather 
compact tuft or head. The plant, when well grown and ready for 
use, resembles a head of Cos lettuce, and will weigh six or seven 
pounds. It is used like common cabbage, being sweet, mildly 
flavored, and easy to digest. The young plants are also boiled like 
spinach. 



Article CLVII. 



PICKLES. 

Cornichon. Essiggurhen. 

No. 1123 — Small cucumbers are best for pickling, and for this 
purpose they must be plucked young, when they attain the proper 
size. The fruit should not be permitted to ripen on the vines, for 
if allowed to do so the plants become much less productive. See 
Pickled Cucumbers, Nos. 641 and 642. 

MIXED PICKLES. 

No. 1124. — Are composed of young cucumbers, cauliflower, 
peppers, string beans and onions. The mode of pickling them 
has been described. When ready for pickling put them into glass 
jars with a few juniper berries. Dilute some mustard flour with 
vinegar, season it with a pinch of red pepper and pour it over them, 
to cover. Then seal the jar hermetically. 



260 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

CHOW CHOW (home MADE). 

No. 1125. — Select five dozen small cucumbers, of from one to one 
and a lialf inches in length ; four dozen small, white peeled onions, 
half a dozen small green peppers, and the flower buds of two tender 
cauliflowers, separated into small pieces. Put them into a strong 
brine for two days, then drain them in a colander and pour luke- 
warm water over them to rinse them. Parboil the onions for five 
minutes, then immerse them in cold water, and when refreshed 
drain them also into the colander. When dry, put the ODions, 
-cucumbers, peppers and cauliflowers in a copper basin. Dilute in 
a pint of lukewarm water eight ounces of mustard flour, to which 
add a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper and three ounces of tumeric. To 
this add enough of either cider or wine vinegar to cover the 
vegetables. Then set them on the fire and let them simmer until 
tender (if desired a little sugar may be added while cooking). 
When tender take them off of the fire, put them in an earthen bowl, 
and when they are cold put them in wide-mouthed bottles and cork 
tightly. 



ArTICLK CLVIII 



French PICRIDIUM. Germ.iii 

Pieridium. Picridium. 

No. 1126. — A hardy biennial plant, from the southern part of 
Europe. The stem is eighteen inches high, and the leaves about 
eight inches long, irregular in form and generally broad at the ends, 
heart-shaped and clasping at the base. The leaves have a pleasant 
agreeable odor, and while young and tender are mixed with salads. 
Sow the seed in May in drills a foot apart and half an inch in depth. 
The plants, when allowed to run to seed, produce but little foliage. 
Nip ofi'the flowering shoot as soon as it makes its appearance. 



Articlk CLIX. 



POKE, OR PIGEON BERRY. 

Sachet. Poke, 

No. 1127. — A hardy, herbaceous perennial plant, common by 
the roadside in waste places, and springing up spontaneously on 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 261 

newly burned pine lands. It has a branching, purplish stem, and 
large oval-pointed entire leaves. The fruit consists of a flat, purple, 
juicy berry, which is sometimes used as a purple dye. The annual 
Phytolacca is less vigorous and stocky. Sow the seeds in April, in 
drills, fifteen inches apart. The young shoots are boiled and 
served the same as sea kale. In taste it is similar to asparagus. 
The roots are used for medicinal purposes, and when taken 
internally act as a violent emetic. 

POKE STALKS, WITH BUTTEE SAUCE. 

No. 1128. — When the stalks are two inches high, and show only 
a tuft of leaves at the top, gather them. (They are unfit for use 
when larger or older.) Scrape the stalks and put them in cold, 
acidulated water. Tie them in bundles (the same as asparagus), 
put them in a saucepan of boiling water, and let them cook until 
tender. Serve them on a napkin with Butter or Hollandaise sauce, 
separate. 



ARTICIvK CIvX. 



French POPPY, Ciermaii 

Pavot. Mohnsanien, 

No. 1129. — A hardy annual plant, growing naturally in various 
parts of this country.. It is cultivated for its seeds, which give an 
oil of very agreeable flavor, that is used for domestic purposes (in 
place of olive oil), by druggists and for fine art painting. The seeds 
are also used for bird food, and for this purpose are known as 
marrow seed. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1130. — Sow the seeds in April or May, in rows two feet apart. 
It is cultivated easily and can be grown successfully in the Middle 
or Southern States. 



ArTICIvB CIvXI 



PORTUGAL CABBAGE. 

Choux Portugais. Portugal Kohl. 

No. 1131. — A variety of Cabbage quite distinct from the common 
head sorts. The stalk is short and thick; the outer leaves are large, 



:'262 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

roundish, of a dark bluisli-green color, wrinkled on tlie surface and 
slightly undulating on the borders. The midrib of the leaf is large, 
thick, nearly white, and branches into veins. It forms a loose head 
and when full grown is nearly two feet high. Different parts of the 
Cabbage are used for culinary purposes. The ribs of the outer and 
large leaves, when boiled, somewhat resemble the sea-kale, both in 
texture and flavor. The heart, or middle, of the plant is, however, 
the best for use, as it is delicate and agreeably flavored, being 
without any of the coarseness often found in the common Cabbage. 
It is cultivated in the same manner as the common Cabbage. See 
Cabbage, Article XXX. 



ArTICIvK CIvXII 



Fremcli POTATOES. German 

Pomme de terre. Kartoffeln. 

No. 1132. — The Potato is an esculent and farinaceous plant, and a 
native of South America. In its wild, natural state, the tuber rarely 
exceeds an inch in diameter, and is comparativeh^ unpalatable, 
but owing to cultivation they have greatly increased both in size 
and variety. There are over tAvo hundred varieties, some of which 
are far superior to others, much depending on the culture and the 
soil in which they are grown. They are considered the most impor- 
tant of all the esculent roots, and a valuable article of human subsist- 
ence. The Potato is a healthful and nourishing vegetable, being- 
agreeable to most all constitutions. It can be obtained throughout 
the year, and may be prepared without much trouble. The Potato 
is also used for other preparations. The Potato flour (fecula) is 
used by invalids and confectioners, and is mixed into the prepara- 
tions of the common sorts of chocolate. The Potato blossom is 
used in making paint, and the leaves when dried are used by tobac- 
conists. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1133. — The soil best suited for the Potato is of the drier and 
lighter description; pasture land or new land with the turf freshly 
turned, producing the most abundant as well as the most certain 
crop. When grown in land of a stifli" clayish texture, or in wet soils, 
they are not only extremely liable to disease, but the quality is also 
very inferior. If the soil is good but little manure will be required. 
In highly enriched soil the plants appear to be more liable to dis- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 263 

ease than when grown in soil that is naturally good. The best 
fertilizers are those of a dry or absorbent nature, such as plaster 
lime, superphosphate of lime, and bone dust. For wet soil these 
are particularly beneficial, as they not only promote growth, but 
prevent disease. The Potato is propagated from tubers, which are 
either divided into sets, or planted entire. Whichever practice 
may be adopted, experience has proven that plants from well ripened 
tubers are not only more healthful and more productive, but actually 
come to perfection earlier than those produced from immature sets. 
Potatoes are usually planted either in hills or ridges, the former 
method being the most common in this country. If planted in hills 
they should be made three feet apart, on light warm soil. They 
require covering nearly four inches deep, but in cold, wet situations 
two and a half inches will be sufficient. Cultivation should be 
commenced as soon as the young shoots are fairly above the surface, 
^nd as the season advances gather the earth gradually about the 
hills or long drills, adding a little at each successive hoeing for the 
support of the growing plants, and to encourage the development 
of the rich roots, for it is at the extremity of the roots that the 
tubers are found. After the appearance of the blossoms cultivation 
should be discontinued, and no further attention will be required 
until ' the time for harvesting. The season of maturity of the 
earlier sorts will be indicated by the decay of the plants. The 
later sorts will continue their growth until checked by frost, pre- 
vious to which time they will not be ready for harvesting. New 
Potatoes may be had in the Southern States and in California in 
February and March, and in the Northern States as early as May 
or June, when the weather is practicable. 

The table should be supplied from day to day directly from the 
iield or garden, as the tubers rapidly deteriorate after being taken 
from the ground, especially if exposed to a warm, light atmosphere, 
or when kept in a warm, dry cellar. In the preservation of potatoes 
it is of the first importance that they be excluded from light (if this 
is neglected they become injured). Fermentation is also an im- 
portant evil to be guarded against, as it changes the whole substance 
of the Potato. Of the many old and new varieties that claim public 
favor the following are selected : 

EARLY MAYFLOWER. 

No. 1134. — Eipens very early, and in quality is claimed to be 
equal to the Snowflake. It is, in fact, a cross between the Snow- 
flake and Peachblow. The tubers are of medium size and run very 
uniform, being slightly flattened, oval shaped, and of a light lemon 
color. The skin is well covered with very fine netting, and has 



264 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

very few eyes. The flesh is white and solid. It cooks evenly and 
thoroughly, without falling to pieces, and has no hard core, so com- 
mon to other sorts. 

wall's ORANGE. 

No. 1135. — Unsurpassed as a table variety. Its color is very 
distinct, being of a decided orange hue, from which it derives its 
name. It is unequaled in quality and productiveness, and one of 
the strongest growers. 

JUMBO. 

No. 1136. — This is one of the largest growing Potatoes in cultiva- 
tion, being at least one-third larger than the Peerless. It seems to 
be entirely free from rot and is one of the very best keepers. The 
tubers are nearly round, the skin white, the eyes small and sunken 
and the flesh white and of excellent flavor. Either baked or boiled 
they are dry and mealy. 

CHAMPION OF AMERICA. 

No. 1137. — The tubers are flesh-colored and the eyes carmine, 
small and even with the surface. It grows to an immense size on 
strong ground, producing tubers as heavy as three pounds in weight. 
It is a tremendous yielder, one of the best of keepers, and is not to 
be excelled for cooking purposes. 

ROCHESTER FAVORITE. 

No. 1138. — A late variety that is white, oval-oblong and very 
uniform in size. An immense yielder and a handsome variety, 
excellent for table use. 

SAINT PATRICK. 

No. 1139. — A handsome, smooth and regular variety, with very 
few and shallow eyes. A large yielder and of the best quality; 
excellent either baked or broiled being dry and mealy. 

BEAUTY OF HEBRON. 

No. 1140. — One of the best early sorts with white skin and flesh. 
A good keeper, excellent for table use, either baked or boiled. 

EARLY ROSE. 

No. 1141. — The leading variety for earliness, quality and pro- 
ductiveness. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 265 

WHITE EOSE. 

No. 1142. — A second early variety of medium size, very uniform 
and finely formed, with wliite skin slightly russeted. 

LATE EOSE. 

No. 1143. — The best of the late varieties. 

PEEELESS. 

No. 1144. — A favorite variety for general use. 

SNOWFLAKE. 

No. 1145. — A variety of medium earliness and unsurpassed for 
mealiness and delicacy of flavor. 

EAELY TELEPHONE. 

No. 1146. — One of the best yielders, producing from one planted 
tuber as many as thirty or forty of good quality. 

YEEMONT CHAMPION. 

No. 1147. — Grows to an immense size; of fine shape and a good 
yielder. 

PEACH BLOW. 

No. 1148. This variety is well known, as it is planted in immense 
quantities all over the country. It is very productive and ripens 
about the same time as the Burbank. The tubers are of medium 
size, oval-oblong, and very handsomely formed. A good keeper, 
and one of the very best for transportation. 

MAMMOTH PEAEL. 

No. 1149. — The skin is white, the tubers medium in size, and the 
eyes are quite even with the surface. An excellent variety for 
table use, being exceedingly floury and well flavored. 

EAELY GEM. 

No. 1150. — One of'|the best early Potatoes, of medium size, oval- 
oblong in form and very smooth. The eyes are shallow and few in 



"266 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

number. It cooks well and lias white and exceedingly mealy 
flesh. 

CAETEE. 

No. 1151. — A medium sized, round, flattened white Potato, and 
•one of the finest varieties, with numerous deeply sunk eyes. The 
flesh is white, remarkably dry, farinaceous and well-flavored. 

BUCKEYE. 

No. 1152. — A handsome round Potato, with a little bright pink at 
the bottom of the eyes. It is grown to a considerable extent in the 
Western States. It cooks dry and light, and is well flavored when 
grown for early use. When grown" for a late crop, in rich ground, 
many of the tubers are liable to be hollow in consequence of their 
rapid growth, thus impairing their value for table use. 

CALIFOENIA EED. 

No. 1153. — A bright red Potato, having tubers that vary in form 
from long to nearly round. One of the most productive of all the 
varieties, but its liability to disease accounts for it not being gen- 
erally cultivated. 

BOILED POTATOES. 

No. 1154. — Wash the Potatoes in cold water and remove all the 
small particles attached to them. Then put them into a saucepan 
with water to cover, add a little salt, put on the cover and set them 
on a brisk fire to bring them to a boil. Then set them on the side 
of the fire to let them boil moderately. As soon as they are done 
drain off the water, replace the cover tightly and set the Potatoes 
on the stove again for five minutes to dry them. If the Potatoes 
are good the flesh will be dry, white and mealy. Serve them in a 
napkin. 

Note. —Do not let Potatoes boil too quick, nor let them remain in tbe water after they have been 
boiled. 

BOILED PEELED POTATOES. 

No. 1155. — Peel the Potatoes and wash them in cold water (have 
ihem as near alike in size as possible). Put them into a saucepan, 
three-quarters full of cold water, add a little salt, put on the cover 
and boil them as in No. 1154. When done drain off' the water and 
<30ver the Potatoes with a napkin. Then put on the cover, set them 
back on the stove, and when dried serve them in a napkin or with 
melted butter. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OE TASTE. 267 

BOILED NEW POTATOES. 

No. 1156. — New Potatoes need not be peeled. Wash them in 
cold water, then rub them with a coarse towel and the skin will 
come off. Put them into a saucepan three-quarters full of cold 
water, add a little salt and boil them as in No. 1154. When done 
drain them and serve with melted butter or Cream sauce over them. 

BOILED POTATOES, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 1157. — Boil two dozen peeled Potatoes, and when they are 
done dish them up with the following preparation over them: Put 
into a frying pan two ounces of butter and one finely chopped onion. 
Fry the onion to a light brown color and add a little fresh bread 
crumbs. Toss this over a brisk fire, and when browned pour it 
over the Potatoes. 

STEAMED POTATOES. 

No. 1158. — steamed Potatoes are preferred by some to boiled 
Potatoes, and those that are not of the best quality will be found 
better when steamed than boiled. Have a small boiler three-quarters 
full of water. When the water boils set on top of this boiler an- 
other one with perforated holes in the bottom, and into this put the 
Potatoes; adding a little salt to them. Cover them tightly with a 
perforated cover. "When the steam comes through freely the Pota- 
toes will be done. Serve them in the same way as boiled Potatoes. 
Where vegetables are cooked by steam power, perforated baskets 
are made to fit the boilers, and in this case the faucets must be left 
open so that no water can accumulate in the boiler. 

STEWED POTATOES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1159. — Take one dozen boiled Potatoes and peel them (when 
of mediunj size cut them in halves, and when large cut them into 
quarters). Then slice them in pieces all alike a quarter of an inch 
thick, and put them into a saucepan with half a cup of hot milk and 
a small piece of butter, and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of 
nutmeg. Let them simmer until the milk is nearly reduced, then 
add four spoonfuls of Butter sauce and let them cook about four 
minutes longer. Then add a piece of butter, some finely chopped 
parsley, and toss them well together off of the fire until the butter 
is melted. 

STEWED POTATOES, MAITRE d' HOTEL. 

No. 1160. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1159. Then put 
them into a saucepan with a cup full of white broth and set it 



268 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

on a brisk lire. Season with salt and pepper, and when the broth is 
nearly reduced add four ounces of butter, some finely chopped 
parsley and the juice of one lemon. Toss them well together until 
the butter is melted, and serve. 

stewed potatoes, epicurean style. 

No. 1161. — Take tAvo dozen small, new Potatoes, cut them in 
slices a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a flat saucepan and 
moisten them with broth to cover. Season with salt and pepper, 
put the cover on the saucepan and set it on a brisk fire. When the 
broth is nearly reduced the Potatoes should be cooked. Then add 
a piece of butter, some finely chopped parsley, and the juice of 
one lemon. Toss them well together otf" of the fire until the butter 
is melted, and then serve. When old potatoes are used, cut them 
first in halves, and then into slices of an equal size. 

BAKED stewed POTATOES, WITH CEEAM, CHAD WICK STYLE. 

No. 1162. — Boil one dozen new Potatoes, cut them into pieces a 
quarter of an inch long and an eighth of an inch thick. Put them 
into a saucepan with two sjDoonfuls of cream, and season them with 
salt, a pinch of red pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. When the 
cream is reduced, add four spoonfuls of Cream sauce and toss them 
well together. Then put them into a buttered baking dish and 
bake them in an oven until nicely browned. Wipe the border of 
the dish in which the Potatoes have been baked and serve them on 
a dish with a napkin. 

STEWED POTATOES, BRETONNE STYLE. 

No. 1163. — Put into a saucepan two finely sliced onions, with a 
piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then add two soup-spoonfuls 
of flour, and let them cook for five minutes while stirring them with 
a wooden spoon. Then add in slowly, half a pint of broth and a 
soup-spoonful of wine vinegar. Let this simmer slowly until the 
onions are well cooked, then add one and a half dozen of sliced and 
boiled new Potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and when thor- 
oughly warmed serve them. 

STEWED POTATOES, HANOVEEIAN STYLE. 

No. 1164. — Pare four dozen small new Potatoes, put them into a 
saucepan and moisten them with broth to cover. Boil them on a 
brisk fire, and when cooked add four ounces of butter, a- little salt. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 269 

and some finely chopped parsley. Toss them well together off of 
the fire until the butter is melted, and serve. 

STE^YED POTATOES, WITH MUSTARD SAUCE. 

No. 1165. — Cut into small pieces four ounces of raw ham, and 
put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry it lightly, and 
add two soup-spoonfuls of flour. Let it cook for five minutes while 
stirring it with a wooden spoon. Dilute this with broth enough to 
make a light sauce, and season with salt and pepper. Then put 
with this, two spoonfuls of wine vinegar, a faggot of parsley, gar- 
nished with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Let it boil slowly 
for twenty minutes, then skim it clear, and take out the faggot. 
Then add two soup-spoonfuls of French mustard, and when well 
mixed add one dozen cold boiled sliced Potatoes, and when thor- 
oughly warmed, serve. 

STEWED POTATOES, WITH BACON. 

No. 1166. — Put into a saucepan a quarter of a pound of bacon cut 
into slices about an inch long. Fry it lightly. Then add to it two 
soup-spoonfuls of flour and cook it to a light brown while stirring 
it with a wooden spoon. Dilute this with half a pint of broth, and 
when it boils add one dozen sliced Potatoes and a faggot of parsley 
garnished with a sprig of thyme and one bay leaf. Season with 
salt and pepper and let it simmer slowly for twenty minutes, when 
the Potatoes must be cooked. Take out the faggot and serve. 

HASHED POTATOES, WITH CREAM, 

No. 1167. — Hashed Potatoes are not chopped; they are boiled 
Potatoes, thinly sliced and then cut into small squares. Cut half 
a dozen boiled Potatoes as above and put them into a saucepan 
with a cup of cream. Set them on a brisk fire and when the moist- 
ure is half reduced, season with salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg (if 
desired) and a piece of butter. Toss them well together off of the 
fire until the butter is melted. When serving sprinkle a little finely 
chopped parsley over them. 

Note. — A spoonful of Cream sauce may be added. If this is done, moisten with less cream in the 
first place. 

HASHED POTATOES, BROWNED. 

No. 1168. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1167, moisten them with 
two spoonfuls of cream and season with salt and pepper. When 
the moisture is nearly reduced add a piece of butter and a spoonful 



270 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

of Cream sauce. Mis them well together. Put into an omelet 
pan a small piece of butter, and when melted add the Potatoes, 
letting them brown slowly. Gather the Potatoes and shape them 
nicely in the pan like an omelet. Then turn them on to a dish 
and serve. 

BAKED HASHED POTATOES, WITH CEEAM. 

No. 1169. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1167, and when the 
cream is nearly reduced, add two spoonfuls of Cream sauce and 
season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Toss them well 
together, put them into a buttered baking dish, sprinkle fresh 
bread crumbs oyer them and put a piece of butter on top. Wipe 
off the borders and place them in an oven to bake to a nice brown. 

BAKED POTATOES WITH SALT HEEEINGS, BEELIN STYLE. 

No. 1170. Boil one dozen peeled Potatoes, cut them in slices 
and season with salt. Then select three fine pickled herrings, 
wash, skin and bone them. Then cut them into scollops and soak 
them in milk. 

Slice two white onions finely, and put them into a saucepan with 
a piece of butter. Fry them sh "wly, not letting them get browned, 
and then add two soup-spoonfuls of flour. Let it cook a few min- 
utes while stirring it, and dilute it with cream or boiled milk, so as 
to have a thick sauce. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add a 
few drops of meat glaze, and cook it slowly for twenty minutes. 
Then rub it through a line sieve. 

Butter a deep baking dish, put a layer of the sliced Potatoes in it. 
Cover them with the sauce and add a layer of the scolloped herring. 
Alternate thus until the dish is full, and have the top layer of 
Potatoes. Cover them with the sauce, and over this sprinkle 
some fresh bread crumbs, adding some small pieces of butter over 
the top. Wipe off the borders and bake it slowly for twenty 
minutes. 

BAKED POTATOES, CAELSEUHE STYLE. 

No. 1171. — These are prepared the same as those in No. 1170, 
except that the herrings should be omitted, using scollops of 
smoked lamb or pig's tongue, and sliced breakfast sausages instead. 

BAKED POTATOES WITH ANCHOVIES. 

No. 1172. — Peel, boil and slice one dozen Potatoes and season 
them with salt. Wash half a pound of Anchovies and remove the 
skin and bones. Cut sis hard-boiled eggs in quarters. Then butter 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 271 

a deep baking disli thickly, place a layer of the sliced Potatoes in 
the bottom and moisten it with sour cream. On this put a layer of 
the eggs and Anchovy, alternating in this way until the dish is full- 
Have a layer of Potatoes on top, moisten it with sour cream, 
and sprinkle raspings of bread on top, with a small piece of butter. 
Wipe off the borders and bake it for fifteen minutes. 

BOILED POTATOES, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 1173. — Chop one large, white onion finely, put it into a. 
saucepan with a piece of butter and fry it lightly. Then add two 
soup-spoonfuls of flour and let it cook for five minutes while stirring 
it. Dilute this with a pint of cream to make a thick Cream sauce, 
cooking it slowly for ten minutes. Then add two spoonfuls of finely 
cut, lean ham, two spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese and the 
yolks of four hard boiled eggs chopped fine, and season with salt 
and pepper. Slice from two to three dozen boiled new Potatoes, 
and put a layer of them in a deep-buttered baking dish. Cover 
them with the sauce and proceed in this way until the dish is fulL 
Sprinkle fresh bread crumbs on top, adding some small pieces of 
butter. Wipe off the borders and bake it in a moderate oven for 
twenty -five minutes. 

Note. — AnchoYies or finely sliced smoked sausages may be laid between the layers of Potatoes-, 
if desired. 

POTATOES TOSSED IN BUTTEK (SAUTE.) 

No. 1174. — Slice half a dozen boiled Potatoes and put them into 
a frying pan with two spoonfuls of clarified butter. Season with 
salt and pepper and toss them over a brisk fire until nicely browned. 
Before serving, add some finely chopped parsley. 

POTATOES, LYONNAISE. 

No. 1175. — Cut an onion in half, trim off the ends, and slice it 
finely. Put it into a frying pan with two spoonfuls of clarified 
butter, and fry it lightly. Then add half a dozen sliced boiled 
Potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Then toss them over 
the fire until nicely browned, and before serving add a little finely 
chopped parsley. 

POTATOES TOSSED, (SAUTe) ITALIAN STYLE, 

No. 1176. — Prepare half a dozen sliced boiled new Potatoes 
as in No. 1175, using sweet oil instead of butter, and in place of 
onions use finely chopped shallots. When the Potatoes are nicely 



272 haedek's ameeican cookeey. 

browned, add a little finely chopped parsley and two spoonfuls of 
well reduced veal broth. Toss them well over the fire and serve 
hot. 

POTATOES SAUTE, HOLLAND AISE. 

No. 1177. — Cut half a dozen boiled Potatoes into quarters and 
trim them. Then put them into a frying pan with some clarified 
butter or goose grease. Fry them slowly, and when they are 
nicely browned drain off the butter or goose grease, and add the 
juice of one lemon and some fine chopped parsley. 

BEOILED POTATOES. 

No. 1178. — Slice half a dozen cold boiled Potatoes in pieces half 
an inch thick, and season them with salt and pepper. Then dip them 
into clarified butter, and arrange them on a double broiler. Broil 
them on both sides over a slow fire, and when they are done dish 
them up with a piece of butter. A little finely chopped parsley, and 
a few drops of lemon juice may be mixed with the butter. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

No. 1179. — Wash two dozen Potatoes and have them as nearly 
equal in size as possible. Put them on a pan and place it in the oven 
to bake. Turn them occasionally, and when done serve them in a 
napkin, with some fresh butter separate. 

BAKED NEW POTATOES. 

No. 1180. — Wash and clean two dozen new Potatoes in the same 
manner as for boiling. Put them into a flat saucepan with a piece 
of butter, and put it in the oven to bake. Toss them over occasion- 
ally, and when done add a little salt (care must be taken not to let 
the butter get burnt). When roasting them with a loin of veal or 
lamb, add the Potatoes when the meat is about three-quarters 
done. They may be served as a vegetable or used for garnishing. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

No. 1181. — To have good mashed Potatoes, only white and mealy 
ones should be used. New Potatoes, or those that are watery, 
should not be used. Boil or steam the Potatoes. When boiled 
drain off the water and set them on the fire again to dry. Then 
pound them through a fine colander while they are hot, and add 
salt, white pepper and a piece of butter. Work them well with a 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE 273 

woocleu spoon, and add some boiled milk slowly, so as to liave them 
of the proper consistency. When they are to be kept for a little 
time, cover the surface with some butter or milk, which will prevent 
their getting dry before using. They should be light, "white, and 
creamy. 

BAKED MASHED POTATOES. 

No. 1182. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1181, adding a little 
less milk. Put them in a buttered baking dish, and arrange them 
in shape nicely with a knife. Baste them with the yolk of a raw 
egg diluted in milk, wipe the borders, and then bake them. 

BAKED MASHED POTATOES WITH SPINACH, FRANKFURT STYLE. 

No. 1183. — When the Potatoes are prepared, as in No. 1182, add 
a quarter of their quantity of finely chop|)ed cooked spinach, and 
season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mis them well together and 
put them into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle some fresh bread 
crumbs and a piece of butter over the top, and bake them slowly. 

BAKED MASHED POTATOES WITH HAM, BUCKEYE STYLE. 

No. 1184. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1182. Put into a 
saucepan a piece of butter, two finely chopped shallots and a 
quarter of a pound of finely chopped ham. Toss them lightly over 
the fire and add them to the Potatoes, with a little finely chopped 
parsley. Mix them well together, put them into a buttered baking 
dish, and finish as in No. 1183. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

No. 1185. — Boil one dozen peeled Potatoes. When done, drain 
them and pound them through a fine colander, add a piece of 
butter and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix them well 
together while adding the yolks of four raw eggs. Put this 
preparation on a fioured table and form them into any Croquette 
shapes desired. Then dip them in beaten eggs and bread them in 
raspings of bread or fresh bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard, 
then drain them and dish them up in a napkin, with fried parsley 
to garnish on each end. 

POTATOES, DUCHESSE. 

No. 1186. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185, adding a 
little boiled milk while mixing them. Put the preparation on 
a floured table and roll it into cork shapes three inches long 
18 



274 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Then flatten them with a knife to one inch in thickness, and 
arrange them in a buttered and floured pan. Impress any design 
desired on the top of each, and baste them with a brush dipped 
in milk diluted with the yolk of one raw egg. Ten minutes before 
using bake them in a hot oven to a nice brown, and then dish th^m 
up in a napkin or as a garniture with fish. 

POTATOES STUFFED, SURPRISE. 

No. 1187. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185. Put the 
preparation on a floured table, divide it into parts, and roll 
them into balls about two inches in diameter. Then flatten them 
out and fill the center of each one with a puree of green peas, or 
artichokes. Gather up the sides to keep the puree in the 
center, and roll the Potatoes into the shape of pears (care must be 
taken to have them well closed and smooth). Set them on a floured 
pan, fry them in hot lard, and handle them very carefully. Drain 
them on a napkin, and in dishing them place into the small end of 
each, a green stem of parsley to imitate a pear stem. 

POTATO BALLS, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1188. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1186. Then put 
the preparation on a floured table, roll it out into balls, then 
flatten them a little and flour them lightly. Put a little clarified 
butter in a frying pan, and when it is warm add the Potato cakes. 
Fry them on a slow fire, and when browned on both sides dish them 
up. Serve them for breakfast or lunch. 

POTATO BALLS, MARGOT STYLE. 

No. 1189. —Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185. Add an 
equal quantity of finely chopped braised veal, beef or lamb. 
Season with salt and pepper, and add a little finely chopped parsley 
and some finely chopped onions, lightly fried in butter. Mix them 
well together and roll them into balls. Then flatten iJiem a little, 
dip them into some beaten eggs, flour them, and fry 'them in hot 
lard. Serve them on a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish. 

POTATOES, CONVENT, OR PELERINE STYLE. 

No. 1190. — Slice four medium sized white onions, detach all the 
circles, and put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter. 
Fry them to a light color (care being taken not to let the butter 
burn), then add sis sliced boiled Potatoes. Toss them over a brisk 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 275 

fire until tlioroughlj warmed, and then add a cup of boiled cream 
and a pinch of sugar. Season with salt and pepper and let them 
simmer for fifteen minutes. Then add four ounces of butter, with 
some finely chopped parsley, toss them well over until the butter is 
melted, and then serve. The best new Potatoes should be used in 
order to properly appreciate this delicious dish. 

POTATOES, DAUPHINE. 

No. 1191. — Bake one dozen Potatoes, scoop out the center, and 
while they are hot rub them through a sieve. Then prepare them 
the same as in No. 1185. KoU them out on a floured table into 
pieces two inches long and one inch thick. Eoll the ends to a 
point, and with a knife put any design that may be desired upon 
them. Place them into a buttered baking dish and baste them 
with a small brush dipped into a little milk diluted with the yolk 
of one raw egg. Bake them in a hot oven for five minutes, and 
when ready, serve. 

- FEIED POTATOES, SAEATOGA CHIPS. 

No. 1192. — Peel and wash the Potatoes, and slice them finely 
with a knife or cutter made for this purpose. Keep them in cold 
water, and when ready to fry, drain them. Then throw them into 
hot lard and let them fry crisp. Drain them on a napkin, season 
them with a little salt, and serve them hot. Fried Potatoes of any 
kind should be served as soon as fried, and must always be hot 
when served. 

FPJED POTATOES, LONG BRANCH STYLE. 

No. 1193, — Use large Potatoes which have no core. Peel and 
wash them, and cut them with a cutter made expressly for this 
purpose (sometimes called shoo-fly). They will resemble macaroni 
stems. Keep them in cold water until ready for frying, then drain 
them and fry them in a deep frying pan, with plenty of lard. 
When fried, drain them on a napkin to absorb the grease, and add 
a little salt. One Potato cut in this style will make as large a dish 
full as three in any other way. All fried Potatoes should be 
served on napkins. 

FEIED POTATOES, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1194. — "When the Potatoes are peeled, slice them about a 
quarter of an inch thick, then cut them into sticks of about the- 
same thickness. Fry them as in No. 1192. 



276 HARDEE's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

FRIED POTATOES, JULIENNE STYLE. 

No. 1195. — The Potatoes are cut as in No. 1194, but much finer, 
and fried as in No. 1192. 

FRIED POTATOES, PARISIAN STYLE. 

No. 1196. — With a spoon cutter made for the purpose, cut out of 
two dozen peeled Potatoes, some round pieces about the size of a 
large marble. Keep them in cold water until ready for use. Then 
fry them in hot lard until three-quarters done, and drain them on a 
napkin. Then put them into a flat saucepan with a piece of butter 
and finish cooking them. Then add a little salt and some finely 
chopped parsley, toss them well over, drain off the butter, and 
serve them. 

POTATOES, BRABANT STYLE. 

No. 1197. — Scoop the Potatoes as in No. 1196, then boil or steam 
them until they are three-quarters done. Then put them into a 
flat saucepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly until nicely 
cooked and colored. Then drain off the butter and add four spoon- 
fuls of white Soubise sauce, toss them well over, add a little salt, 
and serve them immediately. 

POTATOES, CHATEAUBRIAND. 

No. 1198. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1197, and when they 
are nicely browned drain off the butter and add a piece of fresh 
butter, a little finely chopped parsley, some salt, the juice of half a 
lemon and a few drops of meat glaze. Toss them well over the fire 
and serve. They are also served with a double tenderloin steak, 
which bears the same name. 

POTATOES SOUFFLE (pUFFED). 

No. 1199. — Peel half a dozen medium sized Potatoes, slice them 
about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness. Fry them in lard that 
is not too hot, and when they are soft drain them and put them into 
another pan with hot lard. Turn them with a skimmer constantly, 
and when they are nicely browned, drain them on a napkin, add a 
little salt, and serve them in a napkin. 

POTATO PUREE, JACKSON STYLE. 

No. 1200. — Bake two dozen Potatoes, scoop out the center and 
pound them through a fine colander. Add a piece cf butter, season 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 277 

with salt and pepper, moisten with veal broth, and, when well mixed^ 
dish them up with boneless sardines over them. 

POTATO CAKE. 

No. 1201. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185, but instead 
of seasoning with salt, add some powdered sugar to sweeten, 
and some vanila or lemon flavor. When the preparation is cool 
add the white of five eggs beaten to a froth. Then put it into a 
buttered mould, sprinkle the top with some bread crumbs and bake 
in an oven. 

POTATOES FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1202. — The boiled new Potatoes, or the Parisian when boiled, 
are served as a garniture for fish. The Croquettes, Duchesse, 
Surprise, Dauphine, Parisian, Chateaubriand, and Puree, are 
served with entrees and joints, or for large garniture for fish. 

The Saute, Lyonnaise, Chateaubriand, mashed and fried potatoes, 
are served with broiled meats. 

POTATO FLOUR (FECULE). 

No. 1203. — This can be obtained from all first-class grocers, and 
is used the same as arrowroot for invalids, and also in making 
griddle cakes, soups, custards, etc. Should necessity require it, 
the following recipe will be found very useful for making it in small 
quantities. 

Peel and wash one dozen white farinaceous Potatoes, and rub 
them through a fine hair sieve into a basin of cold water, keeping 
the Potato always moist with water. Then set the basin aside to 
settle for two hours, after which drain the water off slowly, leaving 
the Potato flour in the bottom of the basin. If the flour is to be 
kept it must be dried. 

POTATO BALLS FOE SOUPS (QUENELLES). 

No. 1201. — Bake half a dozen Potatoes, and when done cut them 
in halves, scoop out tlfe centre and rub them, while hot, through a 
sieve. Then put the puree in a pan with a piece of butter and half 
a cupful of cream. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put 
the saucepan on a brisk fire and stir the puree well with a wooden 
spoon until it becomes a paste (the same as a Panade). Then take 
it off of the fire, and when it is a little cold add the yolks of four or 
five raw eggs and the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth, and mix 
them gently. Poach a little of this preparation, to see that it has 



^278 HAEDER'S 'AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the proper consistency, and if found satisfactory, roll tlie mixture 
on a floured table into small balls (Quenelles), and poach them in 
ivhite broth, lightly salted. Serve them in soup as required. 

SOUP — PUREE OF POTATOES, WITH CREAM, PARMENTIER. 

No. 1205. — Pare one dozen medium sized Potatoes, cut them in 
slices and put them in a pan with cold water. Slice the white part 
of three leeks and two onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter and fry them lightly. Then add three quarts of 
white broth, and when it boils, drain the water off the Potatoes and 
add them to the Soup with a faggot of parsley garnished with cel- 
ery, and a few pepper-corns. Season with salt, let it boil slowly 
until the Potatoes are cooked, skim it well, take out the faggot and 
rub the soup through a fine sieve. Put it back in the saucepan, 
set it on the fire to boil slowly, and add a little broth if necessary, 
stirring it until it boils; after fifteen minutes, skim it well and set 
it on the side of the fire to keep warm. Before serving, add six 
ounces of butter divided into small pieces, and half a pint of 
cream diluted with the yolks of sis raw eggs. Mix it well until 
the butter is melted. Put it into a soup-tureen with a little finely 
chopped chervil, and serve some small fried bread crumbs sep- 
arate. 

SOUP — PUREE OF POTATOES, JACKSON STYLE. 

No. 1206. — Take two onions, one stalk of celery, and the white 
part of two leeks. Slice them finely, put them in a saucepan with 
a piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then add two quarts of 
beef broth, and when it boils add one dozen medium sized sliced 
Potatoes, a faggot of parsley, garnished with a sprig of thyme and 
a few pepper-corns. Season with salt, cover the saucepan, and let 
it boil slowly until the Potatoes are thoroughly cooked. Then take 
out the faggot, rub the soup through a fine sieve and put it back 
into the saucepan, add three pints of thickened chicken or veal 
broth, and stir it until it boils. Season to taste, let it boil slowly 
for fifteen minutes, skim it well, and set it in a hot water bath to 
keep warm. Before serving add a large piece of butter and a glass 
of cream. Serve a plate of small fried bread crumbs separate. 

Note. — With the soups described in Nos. 1205 and 1206, finely chopped chives, chervil, or parsley- 
is generally added. A garniture of green peas, green asparagus tops, or Potato balls (as described in 
No. 1204) may also be added. 

POTATOES FOR BORDERS. 

No. 1207. — Pare two dozen Potatoes and then boil or steam them. 
"When done pound them through a colander, add a piece of butter 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 279 

and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix tliem well together 
with a wooden spoon, and moisten them with a cup of milk. Then 
add the j^olks of five raw eggs, mixing them well with the Potatoes, 
butter the border moulds with clarified butter, fill them carefully 
with the Potatoes, smooth the tops, and put them in the oven to 
bake for fifteen minutes. Then take them out of the oven and let 
them cool for fifteen minutes. Then pass the blade of a knife 
between the Potatoes and the mould, turn the borders on a dish 
and remove the mould carefully. Then brush the borders with the 
yolk of an egg, diluted with a few drops of water. Put them back 
in the oven for a few minutes to get brown, and fill the center with 
the preparation intended for the border, which will be described 
hereafter. 

Note.— They may also be made by sprinkling the moulds with bread crumbs after they are 
"buttered. When prepared in this manner, bake them for twenty minutes and they will be ready to 
serve. When making the Potato borders by hand prepare the Potatoes as above, then put them 
on a floured table and shape them in rolls long enough to border the dish. Have the border about 
two inches thick. Cut a carrot diagonally, dip it in flour and then make an impression in the border 
with it, or various diiJerent designs can be impressed on the top. In this way the borders can be 
made more attractive than when made in mould. Brush the borders with the yolks of eggs diluted 
with a little water, wipe the edges clean and set them in the oven for a few minutes to get nicely 
colored. 

POTATO CRUSTS. 

No. 1208. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1185. Then put 
them into a buttered square tin pan (having them an inch and a half 
thick), smooth the top evenly and cover it with a buttered paper. 
Then set them aside to cool. When cold turn them out on the 
table, and with a round cutter (the size of a dollar) cut them out. 
Roll them in fresh bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and 
bread them again. Form them nicely, and with a cutter (the size 
of a twenty-five cent piece) make an impression on the tops to mark 
the cover. Fry them in hot lard, and when nicely colored drain 
them, and in a few minutes remove the cover and scoop out the 
center, being careful not to injure the shell. Then fill them with 
the desired garniture, after which they take their name. 

Note. — Potatoes in this style are often called Timbals and Pates. 

POTATO SALAD. 

No. 1209. — Boil some Potatoes, slice them finely and fill a soup 
plate with them. Add some sweet oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, a few 
small sliced green onions and three spoonfuls of hot water. Then 
mix them all together and serve it in a salad bowl. 

POTATO SALAD, WITH ANCHOVIES OR HERRINGS. 

No. 1210. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1209, and add boned 
anchovies or herrings cut into small pieces. Season with salt, pep- 



280 haedee's ameeican coozeeYj 

per, two spoonfuls of capers and finely sliced green onions. Arrange 
them in a salad bowl and garnish with pickled beets. 

POTATO SALAD, WITH TEUFFLES. 

No. 1211.- — Out the Potatoes with a round cutter about one inch 
and a quarter in diameter. Slice them finely and put them into a 
salad bowl with sliced truffles that have been cooked in Madeira 
wine. Cover the bowl and set it aside for one hour. Then season 
with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, arrange it properly and garnish 
with water cress. 

POTATO SALAD, BENNETT STYLE. 

No. 1212. — Cut the Potatoes as in No. 1211, and put them in a 
salad bowl with four or six finely sliced gherkins. Rub the yolks of 
two hard boiled eggs through a fine sieve, put them in a bowl and 
add a tea-spoonful of mustard flour and one of anchovie paste, some 
salt, pepper and finely chopped chervil. Dilute this with oil 
and vinegar, mix them well and then add the Potatoes. Arrange 
them nicely in a salad bowl and garnish with hard boiled eggs cut 
in halves, and some sliced truffles that have been cooked in Madeira 
wine. 

POTATO SALAD, WITH ASPIC JELLY, CHAETEEUSE. 

No. 1213. — Boil two dozen firm, solid Potatoes; those that are 
mealy will not do for this recipe. They must be thoroughly cooked 
and then cooled. Then trim them into pieces about one or one-half 
of an inch thick, and after this cut them with a round column cut- 
ter, obtaining as many perfect pieces as possible. Put them on a 
napkin. Have some broken ice in a pan and put the mould in it 
that you intend filling. Line the mould with a coating of Aspic 
Jelly and decorate the bottom with the whites of hard boiled eggs 
and some capers and olives in the shape of a rosette. Then dip the 
small round pieces of Potato in Aspic jelly and arrange them nicely 
around the inside of the mould close together, to form a solid wall. 
(They may be alternated with sliced beets or gherkins.) When 
this is done, line the inside again with Aspic jelly to fill up the in- 
terstices. 

Now cut some hard boiled eggs in fine slices, place them in the 
bottom of the mould over the rosette, and put over this a few thin 
slices of beef tongue and some capers. Pour a little Aspic jelly 
over it to keep it firm. 

Cut some cold boiled Potatoes in thin square pieces and put them 
in a salad bowl. Add to it one-quarter of its quantity of boned sar- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 281 

dines, cut in small pieces, and a few capers. Now make a Mayon- 
naise dressing with Aspic jelly (see Book on Sauces). Season it 
highly. Mix it with the Potatoes quickly, before the dressing be- 
comes hard, and put the mixture in the mould to fill it. Then 
smooth off the surface evenly and keep the mould in a cool place 
until ready to use it. When ready to serve it, dip the mould in 
lukewarm water, dry it with a napkin, turn it over on a dish and 
remove the mould carefully. 

Note.— This can be garnisbed with a variety of vegetables, and its success depends altogether 
Tipon the care taken iu preparing it. It may be filled with mixed vegetables, but they must be dried 
thoroughly before using. Care must be taken in making the Aspic Mayonnaise, which should be 
seasoned well. Only fresh and tender vegetables should be used. 



ARXICI.K CLXIII 



French PUMPKIN. German 

Potiron gourge ou Citrouille. Kurhis. 

No. 1214. — The Pumpkin is now rarely used as a vegetable, having 
been superseded by the squash, which being finer grained and more 
highly flavored, is more acceptable. The Pumpkin, however, 
retains its popularity when prepared for use in pies. Some varieties 
grow to an immense size, and when dry are cut into the shape of 
buckets, baskets, and a variety of ornamental things. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1215. — Pumpkins are generally raised on cultivated ground, 
between hills of corn or potatoes, but they may be raised profitably 
in fields by themselves. 

LARGE YELLOW. 

No, 1216. — This grows to a large size, and is well adapted for 
cooking purposes. It is irregular in shape and size, being depressed 
and flattened at the ends; others are round or elongated. It has 
a deep, rich, yellow color, is finely grained, and has an excellent 
flavor. 

CUSHAN. 

No. 1217. — This is a great favorite in the Southern States, but is 
too tender for general cultivation in a Northern climate. It is very 



282 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

productive, grows to a large size, and somewhat resembles the 
winter crooked-neck squasli. It is of a light cream color, sometimes 
streaked with green, and the flesh is of a salmon color. 

SWEET SUGAR PUMPKIN. 

No. 1218. — This is a good cooking variety, being unsurpassed for 
use in pies. It grows to an immense size, often weighing over a 
hundred pounds. It is oblong in shape, having a mottled light 
green and yellow skin, with thick, sweet, tender, yellow flesh, and 
large seeds. 

NANTUCKET. 

No. 1219. — This is small or medium in size, and somewhat oblong 
or bell-shaped. The thick, deep green skin is faintly ribbed, and 
more or less covered with prominent wart-like excrescences. The 
flesh is thick, yellow, finely grained, and has an excellent flavor. 

PUMPKIN DIET DRINK (TISANE). 

No, 1220. — Put four ounces of dried Pumpkin seeds in an earthen 
jar, and pour a pint of boiling water over them. Let it steep for 
twenty minutes and then take half a cupful at a time. It will be 
found beneficial for strangury and kindred complaints. 

Note. — Parsley roots well washed, scraped and cut Into small pieces, will do for the same 
purpose. 

BAKED PUMPKIN, VERMONT STYLE. 

No. 1221. — Cut a ripe Pumpkin in quarters, take out the seeds, 
]3are off the rind and then cut it in slices half an inch thick. Put 
it in a buttered baking dish, moisten it with four spoonfuls of 
water, and set it in a moderate oven to bake. When cooked butter 
each piece and serve them hot. 

MASHED PUMPKIN. 

No. 1222. Cut a ripe pumpkin in halves, take out the seeds, 
pare off the rind and then cut it into scallops. Put it in a saucepan 
■with enough boiling water to cover it, and let it boil until tender. 
Then drain it and pound it through a fine colander. Put it back in 
the saucepan, add a piece of butter, season with salt and pepper, 
and, when thoroughly warm, serve it. 

SOUP — CREAM OF PUMPKINS. 

No. 1223. — Cut a ripe Pumpkin into quarters, take out the seeds, 
pare off the rind and then cut it into small pieces. Boil them in 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 283 

liglitlj salted water, and wlien done drain them in a colander. 
Then put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter, season with 
salt, pepper, sugar and nutmeg and let them simmer for ten min- 
utes, stirring them occasionally. Then add three quarts of 
thickened chicken or veal broth, and when it boils add a faggot of 
parsley garnished with celery, onions and leeks. Let it boil slowly 
for lialf an hour, then skim it well, remove the faggot and rub the 
soup through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in a saucepan to 
keep it warm, and when ready to serve it, add a piece of butter and 
a pint of cream, diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix them 
well together until the butter is melted. Serve with some small 
fried bread crumbs on a separate plate. 



ArticIvK CLXIV. 



Fremch PURSLAIN. German 

Pourpier. Portulak. 

No. 1224. — Purslain is a hardy annual plant, the cultivated 
varieties of which are an improvement over the common Purslain. 
The stem is tender and succulent, and is usually about one foot in 
length. The leaves are fleshy, broad and round, tapering at the 
ends. The plant may be cut for use when about five inches high, 
and is pickled, or may be boiled tlie same way as spinach. 

COMMON PURSLAIN. 

No. 1225. — This kind grows abundantly in gardens and cultivated 
fields. The green and the golden Purslain are improved sub- 
varieties, and though considered more succulent than the common 
Purslain, they will hardly repay one for the trouble of cultivating 
them, the difference in quality being very slight. The common 
variety is the kind in general use. Sow it in shallow drills, at any 
time from April to July. It thrives well in any soil. 



Article CLXV. 



RADISH. 

Radis. Rettig. 

No. 1226. — The Eadish is cultivated for its roots, which should 
always be eaten in their raw state when quite young, as they are 



284: Hardee's American cookery. 

apt to be pithy and tough when full grown. The young leaves are 
■used as a small salad, and the green seed pods for pickling. The 
roots are served as a relish with salt, butter and bread. 

culture. 

No. 1227. — A Avarm, sandy loam, made rich and light by 
well rotted manure, with a liberal dressing of salt, will keep them 
free from worms. Sow the seed in twelve inch drills as early as the 
ground can be worked, once in two weeks for a succession of crops. 
Thin them to two inches apart as soon as the raw leaves appear. 
Kadishes must have plenty of room and should be grown quickly 
or they will invariably be tough and wormy. 

SPRING AND SUMMER RADISHES. 

No. 1228. — These varieties are all comparatively hardy, and may 
be sown in open ground, early in spring, when the soil is in good 
working condition. 

OBLONG RROWN. 

No. 1229. — The oblong brown Kadisli has a pear-shaped bulb, 
with an elongated top root, and does not grow particularly large. 
The flesh is white, hard and piquant in taste. 

OLIVE-SHAPED SCARLET. 

No. 1230. — The bulb is an inch and a half deep, three-fourths of 
an inch in diameter, oblong and somoAvhat in the form of an olive. 
The skin is of a fine scarlet color, and the flesh is rose colored) 
tender and excellent. 

SCARLET TUENIP-ROOTED. 

No. 1231. — The bulb is spherical and measures an inch in diam- 
eter in perfection. The skin is of a deep scarlet color, and the 
flesh is crisp and tender. 

LONG SCARLET. 

No. 1232. — This variety is largely cultivated. The root is long, 
a considerable portion of it growing above the ground. The skin 
is of a pink color, and the flesh is white, crisp and of good flavor, 
though less pungent than the scarlet turnip-rooted. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 285 

LONG WHITE. 

No. 1233. — The root is long and slender, similar to tlie long 
scarlet. The skin is white, but becomes tinged with green when 
exposed to the light. The flesh is white, crisp and mild, and forms 
a nice contrast when served with the red varieties 

LONG WHITE, PURPLE TOP. 

No. 1234. — This is a sub-varietj of the long white; the portion of 
the root above ground being tinged with purple. 

SMALL YELLOW TURNIP-KOOTED. 

No. 1235. — The root is similar to that of the scarlet turnip rooted. 
The skin is smooth and yellow, and the flesh is white, crisp, finely 
grained and rather pungent. 

WHITE CEOOKED. 

No. 1236. — The root is very long, being sometimes over twelve 
inches in length, and an inch in diameter, nearly cylindrical, often 
irregular, and sometimes assuming a spiral or cork-screw shape. 
The skin is white and smooth, and the flesh is white and pungent, 
but not as fine as many of the other varieties. 

YELLOW TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No. 1237. — The bulb is nearly spherical, but tapers slightly 
towards the top root, which is slender. It grows large, but should 
be eaten when young and about an inch in diameter. The skin is 
of a yellowish-brown color, and the flesh is white, crisp and mild. 

LONG SALMON. 

No. 1238. — This is similar to the scarlet variety and appears 
about the same time. 

LONG PURPLE. 

No. 1239. — The root is long, considerable of it growing above the 
ground. The skin is deep purple in color, and the flesh is white, 
and of good flavor. If the seeds are sown in drills, the same as 
mustard, they will bring forth large green leaves, which can be used 
in small salads. 



286 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

EARLY BLACK.. 

No. 1240. — The bulb is nearly spherical, but tapers slightly, being 
similar to the gray turnip-rooted. The skin is rough, wrinkled, 
and of a dull black color, and the flesh is white, solid and piquant 
in flavor. 

EARLY LONG PURPLE. 

No. 1241. — This is a small and early sub-variety of the long- 
purple. 

EARLY SCARLET TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No. 1242. — The bulb is spherical, though flattened slightly, and 
often bursts longitudinally before attaining its full size. The skin 
is of a deep scarlet color, and the flesh is rose colored, crisp, mild 
and pleasant. 

EARLY WHITE TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No. 1243. — This is an excellent variety, similar in form to the 
scarlet-rooted, but smaller. The skin and flesh is white. 

GRAY OLIVE-SHAPED. 

No. 1214. — This is similar to the scarlet olive-shaped. The skin 
is gray and the flesh is white, crisp and well flavored. 

GRAY TURNIP-ROOTED. 

No. 1245. — This is generally round, though sometimes irregular 
in shape. It grows large and becomes hollow, and therefore should 
be eaten when young. The skin is mottled with greenish-brown, 
and is often marked with transverse white lines. The flesh is mild 
and of a greenish-white color, but not very solid. 

AUTUMN AND WINTER RADISHES. 

No. 1246. — These varieties may be sown from the middle of July 
to the middle of August. The soil should be made light and pliable 
and should be watered well in dry weather. Radishes may be 
obtained in September and October direct from the garden. For 
winter use the roots should be harvested before the ground freezes, 
and should be packed in earth or sand, out of danger from frost. 
They should be immersed in cold water before being used. They 
are served as salad, the same as the spring or summer varieties. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 287 

LARGE PURPLE WINTER. 

No. 1247.— This is a sub-variety of the black Spanish, and 
resembles it in shape and character. The skin at first is black, but 
when washed assumes a beautiful purple color. 

BLACK SPANISH. 

No. 1248. — The bulb is pear-shaped, having a long top root, 
which at first is slender and somewhat cylindrical in form, it swells, 
however, as it advances in age, and finally attains a large size, 
being sometimes ten inches in length and four inches in diameter. 
It is one of the latest and hardiest varieties, being excellent for 
winter use. The skin is rough and nearly black, and the flesh is 
white, solid and pungent. 

LONG BLACK WINTER. 

No. 1249. —A small sub-variety of the black Spanish. The root 
is long and tapering. 

LONG-LEAVED WHITE CHINESE. 

No. 1250. — The root is of fusi-form, about five inches long and 
an inch in diameter. The skin is white and of fine texture, and the 
flesh is white, crisp, finely grained and pangent. 

ROSE COLORED CHINESE. 

No. 1251. — The bulb is somewhat cylindrical and terminates in 
a long slender top root. The skin is fine and of a light rose color, 
and the flesh is firm and piquant. 

WINTER SPANISH. 

No, 1252. — This variety succeeds best in light sandy soil. The 
roots are somewhat fusi-form, though sharply conical at the base. 
They sometimes measure eight inches in length, and three inches in 
diameter. The skin is white and wrinkled, being tinged with 
purple when exposed to the sun. The flesh is white, solid and 
pungent, though it is milder than that of the black Spanish. 

CALIFORNIA MAMMOTH WHITE WINTER. 

No. 1253. — A mammoth white-fleshed winter Radish of excellent 
quality. 



288 haeder's ameeican cookeey. 

EED EADISHES, FOE EELISHES. 

No. 1254. — Eadishes can be obtained in the Southern and Pacific 
States all the year round in the open air, and may also be obtained 
all the year in the Northern States when grown in hot-houses. 
Use only those that are solid, cut off the green top leaves, leaving 
only the small ones attached. Then scrape or slice the Radishes 
and put them in relish dishes on finely cracked ice or in cold water. 

BLACK EADISHES FOE EELISHES. 

No. 1255. — Peel them and slice them finely. Sprinkle salt over 
them one hour before serving, then press out the moisture and 
serve them in small relish dishes. 

EADISHES FOE GARNITUEE 

No. 1256. — Radishes are largely used for garnishing salads, 
being cut into shapes resembling flowers. The black Radishes are 
used in green salads. 

THE OIL EADISH. 

No. 1257, — This is a variety of the common Radish, principally 
cultivated for its seeds, which yield an oil. It is superior to the 
rape seed oil and is more difficult to extract. It is cultivated 
extensively in China and the Southern States. The plant produces 
more seed pods than the common Radish. 



ArticIvK clxvi 



French RAMPION. German 

Baiponce. Die Rapunzel. 

No. 1258. — ^The Rampion is a biennial plant, the wild variety be- 
ing known as the Primrose. The leaves are long, narrow and 
pointed. The roots are white, of fusi-form, and fleshy, somewhat 
resembling the turnip. Both the leaves and roots have a pleasant, 
nut-like flavor, and are generally eaten raw as a salad, when young. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1259. — The best roots are obtained from a rich, loamy soil, 
that is not exposed to the direct rays of the sun. Sow the seeds in 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 289 

April, in shallow drills that are ten inches apart, and when they are 
well up thin them to four inches apart in the rows. When the 
plant runs to seed the roots become fibrous, strongly flavored, and 
unfit for use. 



ArTICLK CIvXVII. 



RAMPION, OR GERMAN OR EVENING PRIMROSE. 

French Ciermaii 

Primevere. Schlusselblume. 

No. 1260. — This is a hardy biennial plant that grows abundantly 
on the roadsides in this country. The roots, which are the only 
parts used, are, when full grown, about ten inches long, of fusiform, 
and have strong fibres. The whitish, thick outer skin peels off 
readily, and should always be removed. It has a nutty flavor when 
eaten raw, and is inferior to the true Eampion, being slightly pun- 
gent in taste. They are used in salads when young, and are pre- 
pared in the same manner as the oyster plant, when full grown. 

EAMPION SALAD. 

No. 1261. — When prepared as a salad it should be mixed with 
pickled beets and celery, and should be seasoned and finished the 
same as other salads. 



Article: CLXVIII 



RAPE. 

Colza. Ruhsamen^ 

No. 1262. — This plant is cultivated for its seed, from which Rape 
seed oil is obtained. The seed is also used as food for canary 
birds, and the leaves for salad, when mixed with cress or lettuce. 

CULTUKE. 

No. 1263. — Sow the seeds broadcast or in drills, in May, the same 
as mustard seeds are sown. The soil should be rich and moist to 
obtain a rapid growth, and tender, succulent leaves. The plants, 
should be cut to the ground before the second leaves develop. 
19 



290 HARDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKERY. 

ANNUAL ROUGH-LEAVED SUMMER RAPE. 

No. 1264. — The radical leaves are lyrate and of a vivid green 
color. 

COMMON OR WINTER RAPE 

No. 1265. — This variety is biennial and is better adapted to a 
Southern climate than to the North. The leaves are smooth, thick, 
fleshy, and resemble the annual summer variety in shape. 

GERMAN RAPE. 

No. 1266. — This variety resembles the "Winter Eape, and is sown 
in May, the same way as corn. 

SUMMER RAPE. 

No. 1267. — A biennial variety with rough, radical leaves, that 
are fleshy and dark green in color. The best quality of oil is 
obtained from this variet3^ 



ArXICIvK GIvXIX. 



French RED CABBAGE, German 

Choux Rouge. Rothhohl or Blaukraut. 

No. 1268. — The Eed Cabbage is similar to the white variety in 
shape, but its color is red or bluish-red. It is preferred by some 
to the white cabbage. For its cultivation and preparation, see 
Cabbage, Article XXX. 



ArTICIvK CIvXX. 



RHUBARB. 

Rhuharhe. Rhaharher. 

No. 1269.— Ehubarb is a perennial plant, and is cultivated almost 
exclusively for its leaf stalks. The root leaves are large, round, 
heart-shaped, and deep green in color, being more or less blistered. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 291 

The leaf stalks are large, fniTOwed, succulent, and of a pale green 
color, often stained or finely spotted with red, and varying from 
two to three inches in diameter at the broadest part, and from one 
to three feet in length. The stalks are used for pies, tarts, jellies, 
and for various medicinal purposes. The juice makes a tolerably 
palatable wine. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1270. — Khubarb succeeds best in deep, and somewhat re- 
tentive soil; the richer its condition, and the deeper it is stirred, 
the better. Sow the seeds in drills, cover them with one inch of 
soil, and thin out the plants to six inches apart. Trench a piece of 
ground in the fall, manure it well, and transplant the young plants 
in the trench, three feet apart each way. Cover them with leaves 
during the first winter, and give them a dressing of coarse manure 
every fall. The stalks should not be plucked until the third year 
and the plant should never be allowed to run to seed. Seeds can 
never be relied upon to produce the same variety. The A^arieties 
are quite numerous, but those of good quality are limited in number. 

downing' S COLOSSAL. 

No. 1271. — This is one of the best and largest varieties, having a 
fine, rich, aromatic flavor. Stalks of medium size are the best for 
.family use. They turn red when cooking. When stewed it 
resembles currant jelly in color. 

ELFORD. 

No. 1272. — An early sort with slender stalks that are covered 
with a thin bright scarlet colored skin. The flesh is of a reddish 
color, which is retained when cooked, if 'the skin is not peeled ofl*, a 
process which is unnecessary/. 

hawk's CHAMPAGNE. 

No. 1273. — A variety as eaily as the Prince Albert, of a deeper 
and finer color, but more productive and larger. 

wyatt's linneous. 

No. 1274. — A medium sized, very early and productive variety, 
that is highly flavored and but slightly aciduous. The skin is thin 
and the flesh tender. 



292 haeder's ameeican cookery. 



WYATT S VICTORIA. 



No. 1275. — A productive variety, with large leaf -stalks, about 
three inches broad and over two feet long. They are reddish at 
the base and are often finely spotted with red to the nerves of the 
leaves. The skin is thick and the flesh is not very highly flavored. 

CAHOON. 

No. 1276. — The stalks are short and thick, the skin being thick 
and green. The texture is coarse and the flavor harsh and strong. 
It is seldom cultivated for culinary purposes, being used princi- 
pally in the manufacture of wine. The juice is pressed from the 
stalks, and to each gallon three and a half pounds of sugar is 
added. The wine is quite palatable, but lacks the fine aroma of 
grape wine. Any of the other varieties may be used for wine, 
sugar being added according to their sweetness. 

RHUBARB WINE. 

No. 1277. — Cut half a pound of Ehubarb roots into small pieces, 
put them in an earthen jar, and moisten them with one quart of 
wine spirits (alcohol). Six days later add one gallon of dry white 
wine to it and cover the jar tightly. Ten days later filter it and put 
it into bottles. A wine-glassful taken every morning before break- 
fast is said to be very healthful. 

RHUBARB WATER. 

No. 1278. — Cut six ounces of Ehubarb roots into small pieces, put 
them in a quart bottle, fill the bottle with water, and set it aside for 
three days. The water diminishes phlegm, strengthens the stomach, 
and facilitates digestion. Take a wine-glassful at dinner time and 
mis it with wine. Ee-fill the bottle when any is taken out and 
renew the quantity of Ehubarb roots every two weeks. 

STEWED RHUBARB. 

No. 1279. — stewed Rhubarb is used as a relish and for pies and 
tarts. Peel and cut two pounds of Ehubarb into pieces about an 
inch long, parboil them for two minutes, then drain and put them 
into a saucepan, with four spoonfuls of cold water, and set it on a 
brisk fire, occasionally stirring it with a wooden spoon. When 
nearly cooked, sweeten it to taste, and let it cook until tender. 

Note. — When cooked to be served as a relish, the pieces should be kept -whole, and in order to do 
this it is only necessary to be a little more careful in cooking them and not stir them too much. 
Rhubarb, after being cooked, must always be kept in an earthen bowl or jar and covered with paper. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 293 



ARTICIvK CIvXXI. 



French RICK. German 

Eiz. Reis 

No. 1280. — Eice is a native of the Orient, where it is a staple 
food. The best and finest quality is now grown in South Carolina. 
After bread it is the most healthful nourishment known. It is pre- 
pared for food in many different ways as a vegetable, and is exten- 
sively used, when ground into a flour, by pastry cooks for puddings, 
creams, cakes, etc., which will be described in the Book on Pastry. 
In China an intoxicating wine is made from it. In selecting Rice 
care should be taken to see that the grains are whole, for when they 
are broken, or the Rice is of inferior quality, it cannot be prepared 
properly. When it is properly cooked the grains should remain 
entire, and should not stick together. There is but one species. 
The plant is cultivated in warm climates in America, and grows best 
in low, moist soil, which can be overflowed. It is a light, nutritious 
food, and is easily digested. 

BOILED EICE, PLAIN. 

No. 1281. — Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, and then put 
it in a saucepan with some lightly salted water. Stir it until it 
boils, so it will not become attached to the bottom of the pan. Then 
cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty minutes. After 
this set it on the side of the fire to allow the moisture to become 
dry. It may be served as a vegetable or a garniture, and in soups 
where Rice is required. 

BOILED EICE (ANOTHEE WAY) . 

No. 1282. — Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, then drain it 
and put it into a saucepan. Pour over it twice as much cold water 
as there is Rice, season with salt and add a piece of butter. After 
it has boiled six minutes, cover the pan and let it cook slowly for 
twenty minutes. The Rice should then be cooked dry. When 
cooked in this manner it is used as a vegetable, and for garnitures 
or borders. 

STEAMED EICE. 

No. 1283. — Rice is the same, either steamed or boiled, differing 
only in the mode of cooking. Wash and drain the Rice and put it 
in a saucepan or a can. Pour over it twice as much cold water as 



294 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

there is Eice and season it witli salt. Place tlie pan or can into the 
steam boiler, cover the boiler, turn on the steam and let it remain 
there about thirty minutes, when it should be sufficiently cooked. 
Have the pan or can perfectly clean or the Rice will have a rusty 
color when cooked. 

RICE BOILED WITH BROTH. 

No. 1284. — "Wash one pound of Eice in cold water, then drain it 
and put it into a saucepan with plenty of cold water. Set it on a 
brisk fire to boil for two minutes (occasionally stirring it). Then 
immerse it in cold water and drain it dry. Then put it into a 
saucepan and moisten it with broth enough to cover the Eice one 
and a half times its depth. Season with salt, cover the saucepan 
and set it on the fire. As soon as it boils set it on the side of the 
fire, let it boil slowly for twenty minutes, and then the Rice will be 
cooked dry. Then add sis ounces of butter, divided into small 
pieces, and a pinch of nutmeg, and mix them gently with a wooden 
spoon. Eice cooked in this way is used for garnitures, borders, 
Timbals, soups, etc. 

RICE BORDERS. 

No. 1285.— Cook the Rice as in Nos. 1282 and 1284. Then butter a 
border mould with clarified butter, press the Eice into it around the 
sides and bottom tightly, leaving a space in the center. Smooth it 
nicely on top, cover it with a buttered paper cover, and set the 
mould in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Then take it out, 
set it on the dish it is to be served on, and in five minutes lift off 
the mould carefully. Then fill the center of the border with the 
preparation intended for it. 

jfoTE. — When Eice is used for garnishing side dishes, it may be moulded in a Charlotte movild, 
or in a deep kitchen spoon. For the latter style dip the spoon in warm water, fill it with Kice, then 
gently press the Rice into an oval shape in the spoon. Then place the Eice on the diah that is to be 
garnished. 

RICE EOR PUREES OR BISQUE SOUPS. 

No. 1286.- — Eice is used in thickening Purees and Bisque or Cream 
soups, to which it imparts a delicacy for which these soups should 
always be distinguished. "Wash the Eice in cold water, drain it, 
and put it into a saucepan. Pour over it four times as much chicken 
or veal broth as there is Eice, season with salt and add a piece of 
butter, one carrot and one onion, having four cloves stuck into it. 
Cover the saucepan and let the Eice cook until it is thoroughly 
done. Then take out the onion and carrot, put the Eice into a 
mortar and pound it into a fine paste. It may then be used as 
directed in the Book on Soups. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 295 

RICE, FAMILY STYLE. 

No. 1287. — Wash and drain one pound of Rice in cold water and 
put it into a saucepan with some water. Set it on the iire and let 
it boil for five minutes, occasionally stirring it. Then immerse it 
in cold water and drain it. Parboil half a pound of lean salt pork, 
trim it and cut it into pieces about an inch long. Put into a sauce- 
pan, fry it lightly and then add a pint of white broth and the Rice. 
Season with salt and pepper and let it cook slowly, occasionally 
stirring it up. "When the Rice is cooked, add three spoonfuls of 
reduced Tomato sauce. Mix the whole gently with a spoon, without 
mashing the Rice, and serve it with fried sausages around the dish. 

EICE WITH CUERY. 

No. 1288. — Chop one onion finely, put it into a saucepan with a 
piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Then add two soup-spoonfuls of 
Curry powder and a pint of broth, and when it boils add half a 
pound of Rice (previously washed in cold water). Let it boil for 
five minutes, season with salt, cover the saucepan and let it cook 
slowly for twenty minutes. Serve as needed. 

RICE, CREOLE STYLE. 

No. 1289. — Chop one white onion finely, put it into a saucepan 
with a piece of butter and fry it lightly. Then add two ounces of 
finely cut lean ham and let it cook for two minutes while stirring it. 
Then add half a pound of Rice (previously washed in cold water) , 
and four peeled tomatoes cut into small pieces. Season with salt 
and a pinch of red pepper and moisten it with a pint of hot broth. 
Then put on the cover and let it cook for twenty minutes. 

RICE, MEXICAN STYLE. 

No. 1290. — Cut one onion in half, trim off the ends and slice it 
finely. Put it into a saucepan with two spoonfuls of grated fresh 
fat pork, fry it lightly and then add two finely sliced green peppers, 
two peeled finely sliced tomatoes, and half a pound of Rice (pre- 
viously washed in cold water). Moisten with a pint of chicken 
broth, season with salt and pepper, cover the saucepan and let it 
cook for twenty minutes, occasionally stirring it gently from the 
bottom. 

EICE, MILANAISE STYLE. 

No. 1291. — Chop one large white onion finely, put it into a sauce- 
pan with a piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Add to this, one 



."296 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

]50und of Eice (previously washed in cold water), a slice of raw 
ham, and a little Spanish saffron, tied up in a piece of cloth. Then 
moisten it with broth to cover, stir it occasionally until the broth is 
Teduced, then moisten again, and let it cook until done. Then take 
it off of the fire, take out the ham and the saffron, and add four 
ounces of butter, and a handful of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix 
it gently, dish it up in a nice shape, and pour over it a nut brown 
Butter sauce, or a reduced Madeira wine sauce, with some tomatoes 
and essence of mushrooms. 

RICE, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1292. — Chop one white onion finely, put it into a saucepan 
with a piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Then add half a pound of 
washed Eice, and let it get thoroughly warmed while stirring it, 
after which moisten it with a pint of chicken broth. Cut a young 
and tender roasted chicken into small joints, and add it to the Rice, 
with a little Spanish saffron, and season with salt and pepper. 
Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes. 

RICE WITH CABBAGE, RISTORI STYLE. 

No. 1293. — Grate four ounces of fresh fat pork and put it into a 
saucepan with a small head of cabbage, cut into fine shreds, and 
season with salt, pepper, and a few fennel seeds. Cover the sauce- 
pan, and set it on a slow fire. When the cabbage is cooked, add 
half a pound of Eice, which has been parboiled for five minutes and 
drained dry. Moisten with a pint of broth, cover the saucepan, and 
let it cook slowly until the Eice is done. Serve it in nice shape 
and sprinkle Parmesan cheese over it. 

RICE, PARISIAN STYLE. 

No. 1294. — "Wash one pound of Eice in cold water, and drain it. 
Then put it into a saucepan with three quarts of boiling water, and 
add a little salt and the juice of three lemons. Cover the saucepan 
and set it on the fire to boil. When the grains are soft (so they 
will not crack), drain it in a sieve, and put it into a medium sized 
saucepan with six ounces of warm clarified butter. Cover the Eice 
with a napkin moistened in hot water, and put the cover tightly on 
the saucepan. Set it in a moderate oven, and in twenty minutes 
the Eice will be cooked. In dishing it up use only a fork. 

RICE WITH CURCUMA, OR TUMERIC. 

No. 1295. ^Wash half a pound of Eice in cold water and then 
drain it. Put two quarts of broth in a saucepan, season with salt. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 297 

and when it boils add the Eice. In ten minutes add four soup- 
spoonfuls of curcuma diluted in a cup of water, and let it boil 
briskly until the Eice is cooked. Then drain it on a sieve, return 
it to the saucepan, add a piece of butter, and keep it warm until 
wanted. 

Note.— Kice in this style is used for garnishing deviled chops and curried meats. 
BICE, VALENCIENNE STYLE. 

No. 1296. — Wash one pound of Eice in cold water, and drain it 
on a sieve. Chop one large white onion finely, put it in a saucepan 
with three spoonfuls of olive oil and fry it lightly. Then add the 
Eice and two ounces of ham cut in small pieces. Let it cook for 
four minutes, stirring it well with a wooden spoon, and then pour 
over it three times as much chicken broth as there is Eice. Add a 
faggot of parsley garnished, one dozen sausages " chipolata," 
and season with salt and a pinch of red pepper. Set it on the fire 
to boil for ten minutes, then cover the saucepan tightly and set it 
on the side of the fire to cook slowly for twenty minutes, when the 
rice will be cooked. Take out the faggot and add six ounces of 
butter divided into small pieces, and a garniture of mushrooms and 
artichoke bottoms scolloped. Mix the whole gently together. 

Note.— When Riceis prepared in this style on t'ast days, use fish broth; omit the sausages and 
ham, and replace them with oysters, mussels and eels cut in small pieces. 

RICE, TURKISH STYLE. 

No. 1297. — To prepare Eice in this style, it is necessary, first, to 
make a chicken or mutton broth, seasoned with salt, and garnished 
with a faggot of parsley, to which you have added some fine herbs, 
a few grains of pepper-corn and some cloves. When the broth is 
cooked strain it through a napkin. 

Put one pound of Eice in a saucepan and pour over it twice as 
much of the above broth as there is Eice. Set it on a brisk fire, 
and in fifteen minutes the moisture will be nearly absorbed. Then 
set it on the side of the fire, and when the Rice is dry add four 
ounces of clarified nut-brown butter. Cover the saucepan tightly 
and set it in a moderate oven for ten or fifteen minutes. In dishing 
up the Eice use a fork, and when properly cooked with the best 
quality of Rice, the grains will be found to be separate from each 
other. Serve a soup tureen of the broth with the Eice. 

RISOTTI, FLORENTINE STYLE. 

No. 1298. — Chop one white onion finely, and put it into a 
saucepan with a piece of butter and four ounces of marrow cut into 



298 Hardee's American cookery. 

small pieces. Fry it lightly and tlien add one pound of Rice, letting 
it cook slowly for four minutes, wliile stirring it with a wooden 
spoon. Then moisten it with twice as much broth as there is Rice. 
Let it boil for ten minutes, then cover the saucepan and set it on 
the side of the fire to cook until done. Then add six ounces of 
butter, divided into small pieces, four ounces of grated Parmesan 
cheese, some truffles cut into small Juliennes, and four spoonfuls 
of beef gravy reduced with some Tomato sauce. Serve with this a 
plate of grated Parmesan cheese and a soup-tureen of Consomme. 

RISOTTI, PIEMONTAISE STYLE. 

No. 1299. — Chop one white onion finel}^, put it into a saucepan 
with a piece of butter and fry it lightly. Then add one pound of 
Rice, letting it cook for a few minutes, while stirring it with a 
wooden spoon. Then pour over it twice as much chicken broth as 
there is Rice. Let it boil for ten minutes, then cover the saucepan 
and set it on the side of the fire to cook until done, adding a little 
broth if necessary, without disturbing the Rice. When the Rice 
is cooked, take it off of the fire and add six ounces of butter divided 
into small pieces, four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese and three 
' spoonfuls of rich gravy. Mix the whole gently. Serve with a 
tureen of chicken Consomme and a plate of Parmesan cheese. 

RICE FOR GARNITURES. 

No. 1300. — Rice prepared in the following styles may be used for 
garnitures; viz.: Rice Crusts, Timbals and Borders. 

RICE CUSTARD FOR SOUP GARNITURE, LANGTRY STYLE. 

No. 1301. — Wash and parboil six ounces of Rice for three 
minutes, then drain it, put it into a saucepan and pour over it twice 
as much milk as there is rice. Season with salt and a pinch of 
sugar and nutmeg. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly until 
thoroughly done, then rub it through a fine sieve and add the yolks 
of sixteen raw eggs diluted in half a pint of cream and half a pint 
of almond milk. Season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
and strain the whole through a napkin. Then put the custard into 
small buttered round charlotte moulds and set them in a flat sauce- 
pan with water to poach. When cooked take them out to get cold, 
and when ready to use, slice them and put them into the soup. 

RICE FOR CONSOMME. 

No. 1302. — Wash and parboil the Rice for five minutes, then 
immerse it in cold water and drain it on a sieve. Then put it in 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 299 

some broth to cook, and when cooked, drain off the broth and put 
the Rice in the boiling Consomme. Let it boil np once, then skim 
it and serve. 

RICE SOUP. 

No. 1303. — Wash four ounces of Rice with plenty of water, drain 
it and set it on the fire with two quarts of cold water. Stir it occa- 
sionally, and as soon as it boils immerse it in cold water and drain 
it dry. Then put it into a saucepan with three quarts of boiling- 
broth, season to taste and add a faggot of parsley garnished with 
two leeks. Cover half of the top of the saucepan and let it boil 
slowly until the Rice is cooked. Then skim it, take out the faggot 
and serve it, adding a little finely chopped paraley or chives. 

Note.— Pearl barley, or any Italian paste may be prepared in the same way. 
RICE SOUP, INDIAN STYLE. 

No. 1304. — Prepare four quarts of thickened chicken broth as 
described in the Book on Soups, set it on the side of the fire to boil 
slowly for half an hour and skim it well. Cut two young chickens 
into pieces about an inch long and trim them nicely. Then put 
them into a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry them lightly. 
Add three soup-spoonfuls of curry powder diluted with a quart of 
broth. Let it cook slowly until the chicken is three-quarters done, 
then strain the thickened chicken broth through a fine sieve, and 
into this add a faggot of parsley garnished wdth celery and a leek. 
Season to taste, let the soup boil slowly until the chicken is done, 
then skim off the' grease and remove the faggot. Before serving 
add half a pint of cream, into which dilute the yolks of four raw 
eggs. Serve with a garniture of plain boiled Rice. 

RICE SOUP, WITH MILK. 

No. 1305. — Wash four ounces of Rice in cold water, then drain 
it and put it in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water. When it 
boils immerse it in cold water. Boil two quarts of milk in a sauce- 
pan and then add the Rice, stirring it until it boils. Season with 
salt and a pinch of sugar and let it boil slowly on the side of the 
fire until the Rice is cooked. 

Note. — Soups made with milk, to which vermicelli, farina, semoule, or other pastes are added, 
are prepared in the same way. A cup of cream, in which the yolks of two raw eggs are diluted, with 
a piece of butter and a little finely chopped parsley, will make it more nourishing. 

RICE. SOUP, WITH ALMOND MILK. 

No. 1306. — Wash and parboil six ounces of Rice, then immerse 
it in cold water and drain it. Then put it in a saucepan with three 



300 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

pints of boiled milk and let it cook slowly until the Eice is done. 
Peel half a pound of sweet almonds and six bitter almonds, put 
them in a mortar and pound them into a fine paste, occasionally 
adding a little milk to prevent them from turning oily. Dilute the 
paste with one quart of milk and press it through a napkin. Then 
add this to the soup, season to taste, and, when thoroughly warmed, 
serve it, being very careful not to let it boil after mixing the almond 
milk with the soup. 

RICE SOUP, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 1307. — Wash and parboil s"x ounces of Eice, then immerse 
it in cold water and drain it. Put into a saucepan one finely sliced 
white onion with four ounces of scraped fat pork and fry it lightly 
(not letting it get browned). Then add the Eice and season with 
salt and a pinch of red pepper. Let it cook for two minutes, while 
stirring it with a wooden spoon. Then add two quarts of chicken 
Consomme, and when it boils set it on the side of the fire to boil 
slowly for twenty minutes. Skim it and then serve it with a plate 
of grated Parmesan cheese. 

CREAM OF RICE, RACHEL STYLE. 

No. 1308. — Wash one pound of Eice and put it in a saucepan 
with four quarts of cold water. Set it on the fire to boil for two 
minutes, stirring it occasionally. Then immerse it in cold water 
and drain it dry. Return the Eice to a saucepan with three pints 
of chicken broth, season with salt, a little nutmeg and red pepper, 
and add a faggot of parsley garnished with two leeks, one carrot 
and one onion, into which stick four cloves. Cover the saucepan 
and let it cook thoroughly on a slow fire. Then take out the faggot, 
carrot, aud onion, and rub the Eice through a fine sieve. Dilute 
this puree with two quarts of chicken broth and one quart of Cream 
sauce. Set it on the fire and stir it until it boils, then let it simmer 
slowly for twenty minutes. Then skim it well and strain it through 
a fine sieve into another saucepan, and keep it warm in a hot water 
bath until ready to use it. Before serving add eight ounces of 
butter, divided into small pieces, and a pint of cream, in which 
dilute the yolks of eight raw eggs. Stir it well until the butter is 
melted, and serve it with a garniture of green asparagus tops. 

CREAM OF RICE, LANGTRY STYLE. 

No. 1300. — Wash one pound of Eice and put it in a saucepan 
with four quarts of cold water. Set it on the fire to boil for two 
minutes, stirring it occasionally. Then immerse it in cold water 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 301 

and drain it dry. Return the Rice to a saucepan witii three quarts, 
of chicken broth, season with salt, a little nutmeg and pepper, and 
add a faggot of parsle^^ garnished with two leeks, one carrot and 
one onion, in which stick four cloves. Then add one chicken, 
cover the saucepan and let it cook thoroughl}'- on a slow fire. Then 
take out the chicken, faggot, carrot and onion and add two quarts 
of Cream sauce to the Rice. Rub the whole through a fine sieve, 
and dilute the puree with chicken broth to its proper consistency. 
Then strain the soup through a fine sieve and keep it warm in a hot 
water bath until ready to use. With the breast of the chicken, 
make the following preparation: Pound the breast of two braised 
chickens in a mortar, into a fine paste, then add eight ounces of 
butter aud the yolks of eight raw eggs and rub the whole through 
a fine sieve. When ready to serve the soup, put this in a saucepan 
with half a pint of cream and add the soup slowly while stirring it 
briskly with a wire whisk. Care must be taken not to let it boil or 
it will curdle. Serve with a garniture of small green asparagus 
tops or pearl barley. 

CREAM OF EICE WITH RICE FLOUR, ASTOR STYLE. 

No. 1310. — Put one gallon of chicken Consomme in a saucepan, 
and when it boils add slowly, while stirring it, half a pound of Rice 
flour diluted with cold broth. (If it gets lumpy it must be strained 
through a fine sieve and returned to the saucepan, stirring it until 
it boils.) When it boils season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of 
nutmeg, and add one chicken and a faggot of parsley, garnished 
with two leeks and two green onions. Let it boil slowly for three 
quarters of an hour, then skim it well, take out the chicken and 
faggot, and strain the soup through a fine sieve. Put it back in a 
saucepan to keep warm in a hot water bath. When ready to serve, 
add half a pound of butter, divided into small pieces, and a pint of 
almond milk, diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs. Stir it well 
until the butter is melted, and serve it with a garniture of green 
peas, or pearl barley, cooked in Consomme. 

RICE WATER. 

No. 1311. — Wash six ounces of Rice, put it in a saucepan with 
two quarts of cold water, set it on the fire and stir it until it boils. 
Then set it on the side of the fire to boil slowly until the Rice is 
thoroughly cooked. Then rub it through a fine strainer and put it 
back in the saucepan. If found too thick add a little more water, 
and let it warm thoroughly. Sweeten with sugar or honey. 

Note.— Rice Water is a good nutritive drink for fevers and inflammatory affections of the bowela, 
as well as for diarrhcea. Care must be taken to see that the Rice is cooked soft. It may be used hot 
or cold. 



302 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

RICE GRUEL. 

No. 1312. — Wash four ounces of Kice and put it in a saucepan 
with one quart of boiling milk. Stir it until it boils, then set it on 
the side of the fire to cook slowly for half an hour. Sweeten with 
sugar and a pinch of nutmeg. This may be used hot or cold, and 
can also be made of Kice flour. 

SMALL CRUSTS (OR CROUSTADES) OF RICE. 

No. 1313. — Wash two pounds of Eice, put it in a saucepan and 
pour over it twice as much chicken broth as there is Eice. Then 
season with salt, add a piece of butter, cover the saucepan and let 
it cook slowly for twenty-five minutes, when the Rice will be cooked 
dry. Then take it off of the fire and add four ounces of butter, six 
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a pinch of nutmeg, and mix 
the whole well together. After this put enough Eice in a buttered 
square tin pan to cover the bottom two inches deep. Smooth the 
surface of the Rice and cover it with a buttered paper cover, on top 
of which set another pan, so as to slightly press the Rice, and set it 
aside to get cold. When the Rice is cold turn it on the table, and 
with a round cutter, the size of a dollar, cut out as many crusts as 
possible (dip the cutter in lukewarm water after each cut). Roll 
the crusts in fresh bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs 
and bread them again. Shape them nicely, and with a small cutter 
the size of a twenty -five cent piece, make on the top of each one a 
slight impression. Then fry them in hot lard, and when they are 
nicely browned, drain them. Take off the covers, scoop out the 
centers, and be careful not to break the shell. 

CRUSTS (CROUSTADES) OF RICE, VICTORIA STYLE. 

No. 1314. — Prepare the crusts as in No. 1313, and fill them with 
a garniture of mushrooms and shrimps, to which add a reduced 
Cream sauce. Garnish the tops of the crusts with a border of 
shrimps arranged in crescent shape. 

CRUSTS (CROUSTADES) OF RICE, WITH EGGS AND CHEESE. 

No. 1315. — Prepare a Risotti, Piemontaise style, as in No. 1299, 
having the Rice somewhat firmer, and then proceed to make the 
crusts as in No. 1313, filling them with eggs scrambled with cheese. 

CRUSTS (CROUSTADES) OP RICE, WITH CURRIED LOBSTER. 

No. 1316. — Prepare a Risotti, Florentine style, as in No. 1298, 
having the Rice somewhat firmer, and then proceed to make the 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 303 

crusts, as in No. 1313, filling them with a garniture of lobster, 
cut in small square pieces, to which add a reduced Curry sauce. 
Garnish the top of each crust with a piece of scalloped lobster and 
a slice of truffles, nicely glazed. 

CKUSTS (CEOUSTADES) OF KICE, WLTB. PUEEE OF CHICIvEN. 

No. 1317. — Prepare the crusts as in No. 1313, and then fill them 
with a puree of chicken. Garnish the top of each crust with a small 
lamb sweet bread nicely glazed. 

CASSEEOLES OF PJCE. 

No. 1318.— The Rice, when cooked, is put in a buttered mould of 
any shape desired, tind is pressed hard so as to have it in a solid 
mass. When it is cold turn it out of the mould, and cut it in any 
vase-like shape. Then scoop out the center so as to leave the shell 
half an inch thick. 

HOW TO COOK EICE FOE CASSEEOLES. 

No. 1319. — "Wash two pounds of Rice in se^'eral waters, and drain 
it dry. Then put it in a medium sized saucepan, and pour over it 
twice as much water or white broth as there is Rice. Season it with 
salt, add a small piece of butter, and set it on a brisk fire to boil, 
stirring it occasionally. Five minutes after it boils, cover the sauce- 
pan tightly, and set it in a moderate oven for forty minutes, when 
the rice will be thoroughly cooked. Then add two ounces of butter 
(six ounces of cheese if desired), and a pinch of nutmeg; mix the 
whole briskW with a wooden spoon, and press it tightly into the 
plain or fluted buttered moulds. Cover the moulds with a buttered 
paper cover, on top of which put a wooden cover that fits into the 
mould, and on this cover a weight to press the Rice down. When 
the Rice is perfectly cold, turn it out, and cut it into any vase-like 
shape. Then scoop out the center, and leave the shell about half 
an inch thick. Dilute the yolks of two raw eggs in a spoonful of 
water, and baste the Casserole inside and outside; then set it in a 
moderate oven until nicely colored. 

Note. — Casseroles may be filled -with any kind of meat garniture, fish or purees, and must always 
be nicely garnished over the top. They take their name from the garniture with which they are 
filled. 

TIMBALS OF EICE. 

No. 1320.— Cook three pounds of Rice as in Nos. 129S or 1299, 
havina; it somewhat firmer. Butter the Timbal or Charlotte moulds 



304 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

with clarified butter, and place them in a cool place to allow the butter 
to harden. (They may also be decorated with trufiies, beef tongue 
or raspings of bread.) When the Rice is cool and the moulds are 
ready, line the moulds carefully with it, pressing it tightly together 
around the sides and bottom, but being careful not to disturb the 
decorations. Fill the centres with a garniture of meats or purees. 
(The Timbal is named after the garniture it is filled with. ) Then 
cover the Timbals with a layer of Eice, smooth it evenly, and cover 
it with a buttered paper cover. Then set them in the oven to keep 
warm until ready for use. When ready to serve them, pass a knife 
between the mould and the Timbal to loosen it, and then turn it on 
to the dish it is to be served on. 

JTOTB. — When making large Timbals, tbe Rice should be from one-half to three-quarters of an 
inch thick in the mould; for small garnitures, from one-quarter to one-half of an inch will be 
sulficient. 

PANADE OF RICE FLOUR FOR FORCED MEATS. 

No. 1321. — Put one pint of white broth in a saucepan, and when 
it boils add one pint of Rice flour and a small piece of butter. 
Stir briskly with a wooden spoon while adding the flour, and con- 
tinue stirring for five minutes, being careful to have the paste clear 
and smooth so it will not stick to either the saucepan or spoon. 
Then take it off of the fire, put it in a plate or earthen bowl, cover 
it with a buttered paper cover to prevent it from crusting, and let it, 
get cold until needed. 

Note.— This Panade is superior to the others for any kind of forced^meats, but it must always b&- 
used fresh. For other Panades, see Book on Sauces and Preparations for Forced Meats. 

RICE CROQUETTES, CREOLE STYLE. 

No. 1322. — Cook two pounds of Rice as in No. 1289, having it, 
somewhat firmer and drier. When cooked, take it off' of the fire, 
and add a small piece of butter, six ounces of grated Parmesan 
cheese, and a small garniture of mushrooms, beef tongue, truffles, 
and the breast of a roasted partridge, quail or chicken, all cut into 
small square pieces. Mix the whole thoroughly, and put it in a but- 
tered square tin pan, having the Rice about an inch deep. Smooth 
the top evenly, cover it with a buttered paper cover, and set it aside 
to get cold. When cold, cut out some pieces with a round cutter (the 
size of half a dollar), and roll them in grated Parmesan cheese. Dip 
them in beaten eggs, then roll them in fresh bread crumbs, and form 
them nicely. Fry them in hot lard until nicely colored, then drain 
them, and serve them on a napkin, with fried parsley to garnish the 
base. 

Note.— When these Croquettes are used for garnitures, add the yolks of six raw eggs. When, 
putting the above mixture to the Rice, roll them in any shape desired while the Rice is warm ; then, 
bread them, etc. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 305 

RICE FRITTERS (SUBRICS). 

No. 1323. — Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, parboil it for 
iwo minutes, immerse it in cold water, and drain it in a sieve. 
Then put it in a saucepan, and pour twice as much boiling milk 
over it as there is Rice. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly 
until the Rice is cooked dry. Then take it off of the fire to get 
cool; after which add two ounces of butter, three ounces of grated 
Parmesan cheese, the yolks of sis raw eggs, a pinch of salt and one 
of nutmeg. Mis the whole well together. Put some clarified 
butter in a frying-pan, and drop into it a tablespoonful of Rice in a 
lump. Repeat this until the bottom of the pan is well covered, not 
allowing the lumps to touch each other. Fry them on both sides 
over a brisk fire, and when nicely browned, drain them and then 
serve them hot. 

RICE CROQUETTES. 

No. 1324. — Wash one pound of Rice in cold water and drain it. 
Then put it in a saucepan with two quarts of boiled milk, the peel- 
ings of one lemon and one stick of cinnamon. Cover the saucepan, 
set it on a slow fire to cook gently, and when the Rice is nearly done 
add sis ounces of powdered sugar and two ounces of butter and 
let it cook until thoroughly done. Should the Rice get too dry 
while cooking add a little more milk to it. Take it off of the fire, 
take out the lemon peelings and the stick of cinnamon, mis the 
Rice well together, and when it is "somewhat cool, add to it the 
yolks of sis raw eggs, a little essence of lemon or orange-flower 
water, (whichever may be desired). Mis it well together and put 
it into a buttered pan. Cover it with a buttered paper cover and 
let it get cold. Then roll the Rice in any croquette shapes desired, 
dip them in beaten eggs, then in fresh bread crumbs, arrange them 
in proper shape, fry them in hot lard, drain them, roll them in 
powdered sugar into which add a little ground cinnamon, and then 
dish them up on a napkin. 

Note.— Either a Hard sauce or a Wine sauce flavored with Maraschino or rum can be served with 
this. 

RICE FRITTERS. 

No. 1325. — Cook the Rice as in No. 1324. Then add some stoned 
raisins and currants that are perfectly clean, or some small square 
pieces of citron. Mis them all thoroughly, and, when the Rice is 
cold, roll it into balls about the size of a walnut. Dip them in 
frying batter, then fry them in hot lard, and drain them. After 
this, dip them in powdered sugar, and serve them on a napkin. 

Note. — The Fritters may be flavored with lemon or orange flower water, as they are considered 
the best flavors for Rice. The Fritters are always named after the ingredients that are put into them. 

20 



306 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

eice cake, souffle. 

No. 1326. — Prepare the Rice as in No. 1324, and when it is 
cooked, put it in a pan to get cold. Then flavor it with lemon or 
orange, add the yolks of six raw eggs, and mix the whole thoroughly. 
Then beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and mix it gently 
with the rice. Butter some Charlotte moulds, and dust them with 
bread crumbs; then fill them three-quarters full with the Bice, and 
set them in a moderate oven to bake. When baked, turn it on a. 
dish and let it stand a few minutes; then remove the mould, sprinkle 
it with powdered sugar, and serve it with a bowl of lemon sauce 
separate. 

Note, — Kaisins, currants or any kind of crystaUized fruit may be added. 
EICE CAKE, GLAZED. 

No. 1327. — Prepare the Pice as in No. 1324, and, when it is cooked, 
put it in a pan to cool. Then add four whole raw eggs, the yolks 
of four more raw eggs, and six ounces of stoned raisins, currants, 
or citron cut in small pieces. Mix the whole thoroughly, and flavor 
with lemon or vanilla. Butter a square pan, in the bottom of which 
lay a buttered paper. Sprinkle it with flour, and put the Rice in the 
pan to the thickness of an inch. Set the pan into a larger pan con- 
taining some water, being careful not to let any of the water touch 
the Rice. Then set it in the oven to bake. When baked set the 
Rice out to cool. Then turn it out on a board or the bottom of 
another pan, remove the paper, and glaze the cake with a glaze 
made with rum or maraschino. Then set it in a moderate oven to 
dry, after which cut it in any shape desired, and serve with a Lemon 
or Rum sauce. 

EICE FOE COMPOTES OP FEUIT. 

No. 1328. — Wash one pound of Rice in cold water, and drain it. 
Then put it in a saucepan with three quarts of boiled milk, stirring 
it until it boils. Then add the peelings of one lemon and a stick 
of cinnamon. Cover the saucepan and let it cook slowly. When 
the Rice is three-quarters cooked, sweeten it to taste, and, should it 
be too thick, add a little more milk. When it is done keep it warm 
for use. When the fruit is cooked as for Compotes, dish up the 
Rice, and garnish it with the fruit intended to be served with it. 

Note.— For fuU description of Compotes, see the Book on Pastry. 

EICE WITH MILK, FOE INVALIDS. 

No. 1329. — Wash half a pound of Rice in cold water, drain it 
dry and put it in a saucepan with six ounces of powdered sugar, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 307 

two ounces of fresh butter, three soup-spoonfuls of white honey 
and half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Then add three pints 
of fresh milk, cover the saucepan tight and set it in a hot oven to 
cook for forty-five minutes. 

Note. — Care must be taken to have the saucepan high enovigh to prevent the milk from running 
over, as when the milk rises it should fall back to the Rice. This is light, agreeable, nourishing and 
healthful for persons having inflammation of the chest or stomach. 



EICE CRUSTS, OK STANDS FOE HOT OE COLD SIDE DISHES. 

No. 1330. — Crusts upon which side dishes are dressed, are gen- 
erally cut from bread and are formed in various shapes, but those 
of Rice will be found much better and more secure, as - they are 
very firm and will not soften like the bread, especially when the 
dish to be served must remain on the table for some time. Besides 
this, the whiteness of the Rice, when the crust is well made, presents 
a much more jDleasing effect than the bread. This will be found 
to be the case, especiallj^ in cold dishes, owing to the fact that the 
Rice can be cut or carved into any shape after it has been moulded, 
but it requires experience and practice to shape them nicely. 

HOW TO COOK EICE EOR CEUSTS OE STANDS. 

No. 1331. — Wash four pounds of Rice in plenty of cold water and 
drain it. Then put it in a saucepan and pour over it three times 
as much water as there is Rice. Add a little salt and a small piece 
of butter and set it on the fire to boil, stirring it well. Six minutes 
after this, put the cover on the pan tightly, and set in a moderate 
oven for one hour, when the rice will be cooked dry. (If any of the 
Rice on top has become browned, remove it.) Then take the Rice 
from the saucepan with a spoon, being careful not to remove any 
that adheres to the side or bottom of the pan. Put it in a mortar, 
pound it to a fine paste and put it on a clean table board. Then 
dip your hands in cold water and work the Rice well together. 
Then butter a mould of the desired shape, fill it with the Rice, and 
smooth the surface evenly. Put a buttered paper cover on top, and 
on this place a wooden cover that will fit inside of the mould. A 
heavy weight must be put on the board to press the Rice down 
solid. Then set it aside for ten hours to get cold, and, when ready 
to use it, dip the mould in hot water and turn, the Rice out on a dish. 
Then cut the Rice into any shape desired with a small sharp knife, 
and keep it covered with a damp napkin until wanted. 



308 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY 



ArTICIvB CIvXXII 



ROCAMBOLE. 

Rocambole. Rocambole. 

No. 1332. Bocambole is a half-hardy perennial plant, and is a 
native of Denmark. They partake of the character of the shallot 
and garlic, and should always be dipped in boiling water for a 
jew minutes before using, as they have a bitter taste. They are 
used in the same manner as shallots or garlic. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1333. — It is propagated by planting either the underground 
bulbs or the small cloves or bulbs that are produced upon the stem 
of the plant. Plant them in April, five inches apart, in drills that 
^re ten inches apart. They will attain their full size in August, 
and may then be used for cooking, or may be spread out to dry, 
then tied in bunches and kept in a dry place for future use. 



ArTICIvK clxxiii. 



FremcJi ROCKET. German 

Roquette. Winterkresse. 

No. 1334. — Rocket is a hardy, annual plant, a native of the south 

of Europe. The leaves are long, lobed, smooth, glossy, succulent 

and tender, and are eaten when young as a salad. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1335. — The seeds are sown thickly in shallow drills one foot 
apart, as early in spring as the ground will admit. If they are 
sown in a dry season, or in poor soil, the leaves are liable to be 
rough and acrid; therefore, be careful to use rich loam, and to water 
the plants well. If they grow rapid and vigorous, the foliage will 
be succulent and mildly flavored. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 309 



^RTICIvK CLXXIV. 



French ROSEMARY. German 

Romarin. Rosmarin. 

No. 1336. — Eosemaiy is a half-hard j, shrubby plant, with a fra- 
grant odor, and a warm, aromatic, bitter taste. The leaves vary in 
form and color in the different varieties. It is used for flavoring 
meats and soups, and also. in the manufacture of cologne. Its 
flowers and calyxes form one of the principal ingredients in the 
distillation of Hungary water. Drinks are made by an infusion of 
the leaves. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1337. — Eosemary requires a light, dry soil, in a sheltered 
situation. The seeds are sown in April, in small nursery beds, and 
the seedlings, when two inches high, are transplanted in rows two 
feet apart, and sixteen inches apart in the rows. When propagated 
by cuttings, they should be taken off in May or June, when six 
inches long, and set two-thirds of their length in the earth, in a 
moist and shady situation. When well rooted, transplant as for 
seedlings. 

GOLD STEIPED. 

No. 1338. — A variety of the common green-leaved. The foliage 
is striped, variegated with yellow. 

- SILYEE STRIPED. 

No. 1339. — A sub-variety of the common green-leaved, and the 
most tender of all sorts. The leaves are striped, variegated with 
white. Both the gold and silver striped varieties are cultivated for 
ornamental plants. 

NAEEOW LEAVED. 

No. 1340.. — A smaller vaiiety, with less branches, and not as much 
esteemed as the others. 

COMMON OE GREEN LEAVED. 

No. 1341. — This is the best variety for cultivation. It is of a 
spreading habit, and is more aromatic than the others. The leaves 
are green and narrow, being rounded at the ends. 



310 haeder's ameeican cookery. 



ArTICIvK CIvXXV. 



French RUK. German 

Rue. Raute. 

No. 1342, — This is a hardy, peronnial plant, having a peculiar 
odor. The leaves are bitter and so acrid as to blister the skin. It 
is a stimulant and anti-spasmodic, but must be used with great 
caution, for unless this is done its use may result in serious injury. 
It must not be allowed to run to seed, and does best in poor soil. 
The plant is rarely used in this country for other than medicinal 
purposes. In the Eastern countries it is used in soups, and the 
leaves are boiled and pickled in vinegar. 

BROAD-LEAVED RUE. 

No. 1343. — The stem is shrubby and the compound leaves are of 
a grayish-green color, having a strong odor. The flowers are yellow, 
in terminal, spreading clusters. The fruit is a roundish capsule, 
and contains four rough, black seeds. 

NARROW-LEAVED RUE. 

No. 1344. This variety is hardier than the broad-leaved. The 
flowers are produced in longer and looser clusters. 



Article clxxvi. 



RUTA-BAGA— RUSSIAN OR SWEEDISH TURNIP. 

Navet Rave. , Siechrube. 

No. 1345. — The Euta-baga, or Russian Turnip, is extensively 
grown for a farm crop. The roots are closely grained and very 
hard, and will endure a considerable degree of cold without injury. 
They are preserved best in a pit or cellar during the winter, and 
are excellent for the table early in spring. Sow them from the end 
of June to the middle of July, in drills two feet apart, and thin 
them out to eight inches in the rows. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 311 

AMEEICAN PURPLE TOP. 

No. 1346. — This is tlie leading variety. It is very hardy and 
productive, being equally good for stock or table use. The flesh is 
yellow, solid, sweet and finely flavored. 

skirving's purple top. 

No. 1347. — This is a good large variety that keeps well. The 
flesh is firm, solid and sweet. 

SHAMROCK. 

No. 1348. — One of the finest purple top varieties in cultivation, 
and keeps well. It forms a handsome bulb, with small tops, and 
but a few leaves. 

LARGE WHITE FRENCH, 

No. 1349. — This is a superior and popular variety. The flesh, 
which is white, firm and solid, has a rich sweet flavor and 
attains a large size. 



Article CLXXVII. 



French RYK. German 

Seigle. Korn-Roggen. 

No. 1350. — Eye is a hardy (secale cereal) plant and is closely 
allied to wheat. The grain is ground into flour and constitutes a 
large portion of breadstuff". The Eye flour is the best for making 
a cake called congloffs, which is of Polish origin. The various 
recipes will be found in the Book on Pastry. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1351. — The time for sowing is from the middle of August to 
the first of September, and it succeeds best in sandy soil. One 
ploughing is given, *and the seed is sown broadcast. If cut before 
it is fully ripe, the grain makes better flour and produces a larger 
■quantity. If intended for seed, the grain should be fully ripe. 



312 haedek's ameeican cookeey. 



^RTICLK CLXXVIII 



FrencJi SAFFRON. German 

Safran. Saffraji^ 

No. 1352. — The common cultivated Saffron is a perennial plant. 
It is cultivated for its ilowers, which are large, of a beautiful lilac 
color, and are used in dyeing, and to make the cosmetic called 
Eouge. The Saffron has been known for ages in Greece and Asia 
Minor. There are several different varieties. The French Saffron 
is much superior in color, and the Spanish is the best in flavor. 
The Saffron is cultivated in the United States as a garden flower 
only. The flowers are gathered after they show themselves, as their 
period of flowering is very short. The stigmas, or summits of the 
petals, with a portion of the style, are separated from the remain- 
der of the flower, and are carefully dried by aitificial heat, or in the 
sun. During this process they are made into the form of a cake, 
by pressure; but the finest Spanish Saffron is dried loosely. They 
are distinguished by the name of cake, or hay-Saffron. It must be 
kept in a dry place, in well-stopped vessels. Saffron has a peculiar 
aromatic odor, a warm, pungent, bitter taste, and a rich, deep 
orange color. When soaked in water it colors the liquid an orange- 
yellow color. It is much used in the Spanish and Southern coun- 
tries for culinary purposes, for flavoring soups and rice dishes, and 
also by confectioners, and for medicinal purposes. From the seed 
a fixed oil is obtained somewhat similar to that of the sunflower. 
On account of the high price of the Spanish Saffron it is adulterated 
frequently. The flowers of other plants, such as safflower, marigold 
and arnica, are mixed with the genuine stigmas. They may be de- 
tected by their shape, which is rendered obvious by putting a 
portion of the so-called Saffron in hot water, which will cause them 
to expand. Much of this is to be found in the United States, and is 
sold under the name of African Saffron. Other adulterations are 
made with yellow-colored chalk, or sulphate of barrium, made into 
a thin paste, probably with honey, and attached to stigmas. The 
pure Saffron will always be clear when diluted with water, assuming 
a fine pure yellow tint, and the Saffron its red color. Less than the 
ordinary brightness of color in the Saffron should lead to the sus- 
picion of adulteration. Saffron should not be very moist nor dry. 
The freshest is the best and should not be over a year old. When 
it is put in acidulated water it should color it bright yellow. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 313 

YELLOW COLOKING FOR CULINAEY PURPOSES. 

No. 1353. — To a quarter of a pound of Saffron add a pint of water 
and one ounce of alum. Let it boil for fifteen minutes, then strain 
it tlirough a towel and put it into bottles. When it is cold, cork 
the bottles tightly. 



Article CLXXIX. 



French SAGK. German 

Satige. Salbei- 

No. 1354. — This is a hardy, perennial plant, possessing some 
medicinal properties. It is cultivated principally for use as a condi- 
ment, and is used more extensively than any other herb, both green 
and in a dried state, for seasoning stuffings, meats, stews and soups. 
It is also used for flavoring cheese, and, in the form of a decoction, 
is sometimes employed for medicinal purposes. It should be gath- 
ered for drying before the development of the flowering shoots; 
and when cultivated for its leaves, the shoots should be cut ofl" as 
they make their appearance. The product will be largely increased, 
as the leaves are put forth in much greater numbers and attain 
larger size. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1355. — Sow it early in spring, in very rich ground. Cultivate 
it often and thin the plants to sixteen inches apart. The plants 
will survive the winter, and, if divided, will give a second crop 
superior to the first in qualit}". 

BROAD-LEAVED GREEN SAGE. 

No. 1356. — The stem is shrubby, and the leaves are large, broad 
and heart-shaped, woolly, toothed on the margin, and produced on 
long foot-stalks. It is rarely employed for cooking purposes, but 
for medicinal purposes it is considered better than any other sort. 

COMMON OR RED-LEAYED. 

No. 1357. — This is the common Sage leaf of the garden, and, 
with the green-leaved — which is but a sub-variety, is the most 
esteemed for culinary purposes. The young stalk, the leaf-stems, 
the ribs and the nerves of the leaves are purple. The young leaves 



314 HARDEE'S AMEEICAN COOKERY. 

are sometimes tinged with the same color, but generally change by 
age to clear green. The red-leaved is generally regarded as pos- 
sessing a higher flavor than the green-leaved, and is preferred for 
cultivation. 

GREEN-LEAVED. 

No. 1358. — A variety of the red-leaved. The young shoots, the 
leaf-stalks, the ribs and the nerves of the leaves are green. 

NARROW-LEAVED GREEN SAGE. 

No. 1359. — This variety is mildly flavored and is the most 
esteemed of all the sorts for use in a crude state. It is also one of 
the best for decoctions. 

DRIED SAGE. 

No, 1360. — Sage, when used for culinary purposes, is best in its 
dry state, whole or ground; but like all other herbs, it should be 
used moderately. 



Article: CLXXX. 



French SAGO. German 

Sagou, Sago. 

No. 1361. — Sago is a dry, granulated starch that is imported from 
the East Indies. It is the prepared pith of the Sago and other 
palms. Numerous trees in the East Indies and on the coast of the 
Indian Ocean, contain a farinaceous pith which is prepared for 
nutriment by the natives. The Sago Palm is one of the smallest, 
its height seldom exceeding thirty feet. The trunk is thick, erect 
and cylindrical, and is covered with a beautiful crown of foliage, of 
large, pinniate leaves, extending in all directions from the summit ' 
and curving gracefully downwards. The medullary matter contains 
most of the starch. When the large leaves have fallen off and the 
flowers commence to take their place, the tree is felled and the 
trunk is cut into billets about six feet long, which are then split to 
facilitate the extraction of the pith, which is obtained in the state 
of a coarse powder. This is mixed with water in a trough having 
a strainer at the end. The water, loaded with farina, passes through 
the strainer and is received in convenient vessels, where it is 
allowed to stand until it has settled. It is then drained off and the 
farina is dried and formed into cakes by the natives. The Sago as 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 315 

sold here is prepared by formiug the meal into a paste with water, 
and rubbing it into grains. This is produced in the greatest 
abundance in the Moluccas, but the finest quality comes from the 
Eastern coast of Sumatra, in Malacca and Singapore. It is refined 
so as to give the grains a fine pearly lustre. This is what is called 
Pearl Sago, which is the kind generally used. It is a small 
grain about the size of a pin-head. The common Sago is larger, and 
the grains are of a more unequal size and of a duller aspect, being 
mixed with more or less dirty looking powder. Sago is used as an 
article of diet, being nutritive and digestible, and wholly destitute 
of irritating properties. 

SAGO FOE INVALIDS. 

No. 1362. — In its preparation care must be taken to boil it long 
in water or broth. Drop it into boiling water or broth while 
stirring it, so the grains will dissolve thoroughly and not form in 
lumps. Should any portion not be dissolved it must be strained, 
as it might ofiiend a delicate stomach. A table-spoonful of Sago 
to a pint of water is sufficient for ordinary purposes. It may be 
seasoned with sugar, nutmeg or other spices, and wine may be 
added if advisable. 

SAGO GEUEL. 

No. 1363. — Boil one quart of water in a saucepan and then drop 
in three spoonfuls of Sago slowly, while stirring it with a wooden 
spoon. When it boils steadily, set it on the side of the fire to boil 
slowly and add a pinch of salt. In three-quarters of an hour add 
a wine-glassful of good white wine, the juice of one lemon, a soup- 
spoonful of powdered sugar and a pinch of nutmeg. Serve it hot 
or put it in an earthen bowl and serve it when cold. 

SAGO FOR SOUPS. 

No. 1364. — Drop the amount of Sago necessary in boiling broth, 
or consomme, stirring it until it boils steadily. Sago is added to 
many purees and cream soups as a garniture. Sago or tapioca with 
chicken or veal broth, is partaken of in the morning by prima donnas 
to a considerable extent. 

SAGO SOUP WITH CREAM. 

No. 1365. — Wash the Sago in cold water, then drop it in a sauce- 
pan containing one quart of chicken broth, and let it boil slowly 
until well cooked. Then season it lightly and add half a pint of 
cream diluted with the yolks of two raw eggs, which will render it 
more nourishino-. 



316 haeder's ameeican cookery. 



Article CLXXXI. 



FrcHch SALAD GARNITURES. Germair 

Fourniture de Salade. Salat Kruuter. 

No. 1366. — Salad garnitures comprise the many pungent and aro- 
matic herbs that are mixed with, or added to, green salads in 
small quantities. The following is a list of the herbs that are used, 
all of which are described under their respective headings : Anise,. 
Bell-Peppers, Borage, Burnet, Bugloss, Basil Sweet, Costmary, 
Coriander, Chives, Chervil, Garlic, Green Onion, Mustard leaves. 
Nasturtium, Oxalis, Picridium, Pepper Cress, Parsley, Tarragon,, 
Welsh Onion, Wood Sorrel. 



Article CivXXXII. 



SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT. 

Scdsifis. Haferiuurz L 

No. 1367. — Salsify is a hardy biennial plant, and is principally 
.cultivated for its roots, the flavor of which resembles that of oysters. 
The leaves are long and grass-like. The roots are long and tapering, 
like the parsnip, and when grown in good soil measure about ten 
inches in length and an inch in diameter. Their flavor is sweet and 
delicate, and they are said to contain medicinal properties which 
have a tendency to alleviate consumption. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1368. — Salsify succeeds best in a light and well enriched soil, 
which should be worked to a depth of twelve inches. The manure 
should be well rotted, for when fresh and coarse the roots will grow 
irregular and ill-shaped. Sow early and quite deep, and give the 
same general culture as for parsnips. The roots are hardy and may 
remain out all winter, but should be dug early in the spring as they 
deteriorate rapidly after growth commences. For winter use store 
them in the sand. 

HOW TO PREPARE IT FOR COOKING. 

No. 1369. — Scrape the skin off carefully and cut them in halves. 
Then slice them in sticks about two inches long, and throw them 
into a pan of acidulated cold water to keep them white. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 317 

SALSIFY, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 1370. — Prepare the Salsify as in No. 1369. Put a saucepan 
on the fire with some water in it, and when it boils add a piece of 
butter, a little salt, two spoonfuls of vinegar and the Salsify. Let 
them cook until tender, then drain them in a colander and put them 
in a saucepan. Add five spoonfuls of Butter sauce and season with 
salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice. Then toss them well 
together and serve them. 

Note. — When Salsify is to be cooked and kept for future use, add to the water when it boils, two 
spoonfuls of flour, diluted with cold water. When they are cooked put them, with the broth, in an 
earthen bowl or jar, cover it with a paper cover, and keep it in a cool place. 

SALSIFY, WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 1371. — Prepare the Salsify as in No. 1370, and when they are 
drained put them in a saucepan with a glassful of cream. When 
the moisture is reduced add three spoonfuls of Cream sauce and let 
it simmer for five minutes. Serve hot. 

SALSIFY, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1372. — Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then 
drain them and put them in a flat saucepan with a small piece of 
butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss them over the fire 
until the moisture is reduced. Then add four spoonfuls of Alle- 
mande sauce and toss them well together. Before serving, add the 
juice of half a lemon and a little finely chopped parsley. 

SALSIFY WITH BROWN SAUCE, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1373. — Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then 
drain them and put them in a fiat saucepan with a small piece of 
butter. Toss them over the fire, and when lightly browned, add 
some thickened veal gravy, to which add a few drops of essence of 
ham. Toss them over the fire again for a few minutes; then add a 
little finely chopped parsley and serve hot. 

Note. — Four spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce may be used instead of the veal gravy. 
SALSIFY FRIED IN BATTER. 

No. 1374. — Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then 
drain them, and put them in an earthen bowl. Season with salt, 
pepper and the juice of a lemon, and in one hour they will be ready 
for use. Then take them out, dip them in a batter and fry them in 
hot lard. Then drain them on a napkin, season them lightly with 
salt, and dress them on a napkin, with fried parsley as a garniture. 



J318 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

FEIED SALSIFY, VILLEEOI. 

No. 1375. — Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then 
drain them, and put them in an earthen bowl. Season with salt 
and pepper, and when they are cold, take them out and dip them 
in a well-reduced AUemande or Cream sauce. Then arrange them 
in a pan, and set them in a cool place so the sauce will adhere well. 
After this, dip them gently in a light batter, and fry them in hot lard. 

SALSIFY FRIED IN BUTTEE. 

No. 1376. — Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then 
drain them. When they are cold, season them with salt and pepper, 
roll them in flour. Put a frying pan, with a piece of butter in it, 
on the lire. When the butter is warm, add the Salsify, and fry them 
nicely on both sides. Serve them on a napkin. 

SALSIFY SALAD. 

No. 1377. — Prepare and cook the Salsify as in No. 1370; then 
drain them, and when they are cold, slice them into small stems 
about two inches long. Put them in a salad bowl, season with salt, 
pepper, sweet oil and vinegar, and add a few finely-sliced gherkins. 
Mis them all well together, dress them nicely, and sprinkle a 
little finely chopped parsley over the salad. 



ArXICIvE: CIvXXXIII 



Freiicli SALKP. German 

Salep or Saloop. ~ Scclep. 

No. 1378.^ — Salep is a small, oval, irregular or oblong tuber of a 
yellowish color, a feeble odor and a mild mucilaginous taste. It is 
one of the numerous species of the genus Orchis. It is prepared 
principall}' in the Levant and in Germany, and is highly nutritious, 
being used in the same manner as sago, tapioca and other fecula 
for invalids. 

SALEP SOUP FOE INVALIDS. 

No. 1379. — Put a pint of chicken or veal broth in a saucepan, 
and when it boils add in slowly a teaspoonful of the S alep while 
stirring it briskly. Let it boil about twenty minutes, season it 
lightly and then serve it. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 319 



Article CLXXXIV. 



Frencli SALT. Uernian 

Sel. Sah. 

No. 1380. — This mineral production, so necessary to mankind, is 
universally distributed over the globe. Most animals have an 
instinctive relish for it, and from its frequent presence in the 
solids and fluids of the animal economy, it may be supposed to 
perform an important part in assimilation and nutrition. It is used 
to some extent in medicine, but its principal use is in cookery, 
where it is employed in seasoning certain kinds of food and for the 
preservation of meat. 



ARTICLE) CLXXXV. 



SALT-PETRE. 

Salpetre. Salpeier. 

No. 1381. — Salt-petre, or nitre, is both a natural and an artificial 
product. Its quality varies considerably. That which comes in 
yellow crystals is called crude salt-petre; while the finer lots, in 
small, comparatively clear crystals, approaching to white, are called 
East India refined. It is considered refrigerant, diuretic, and 
diaphoretic, and is known to be a powerful antiseptic. In cookery 
it is employed for the purpose of retaining the red color in meat, 
such as beef, tongue or ham, when they are put in brine. 



Article CLXXXVI. 



SAMPHIRE, OR SEA-FENNEL. 

Crete marine. MeerfencheL 

No. 1382. — This is a half-hardy perennial plant that is common 
to rocky localities on the sea-coast. The stalk, which is from one 
to two feet in height, is tender and succulent. The leaves are half 
an inch long, green in color and fleshy. They have a warm, pleas- 
ant, aromatic flavor, and when pickled in vinegar, are used in salads 
and for seasoning. 



520 ^ HAKDEE's AMERICAN COOKEEY-j 

GOLDEN SAMPHIEE. 

No. 1383. — This is a hardy perennial that grows naturally on the 
sea-coast. The stalk is from one to two feet high, standing erect, 
with clusters of small fleshy leaves. This plant is used for the same 
purposes, but lacks the pleasant flavor of the true Samphire, though 
it is often sold as the genuine variety and used as a substitute. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1384. — Either kind can be cultivated, but with the best of 
•care and attention it is impossible to secure a cultivated variety 
possessing the flavor of the wild kinds. It is best to put them in 
large pots in the garden, filled with earth and sand. They must be 
watered well in dry weather. 



ArticIvB clxxxvii. 



Fremcli SAVORY. German 

Sarriette. . Saturei. 

No. 1385. — Savory is a perennial plant, with a rigid, angular, 
branching stem, about one foot and a half high. The leaves, when 
bruised, emit a strong, pleasant, mint-like odor. They are used 
for culinary and medicinal purposes. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1386. — Summer Savory is always raised from seed that is 
sown in April or May, in shallow drills fourteen inches apart. 
When they are three inches high, thin them out to six inches apart 
in the rows. It thrives best in light, mellow soil. 

Winter Savory is also raised from seed, or may be increased by a 
division of the roots. The seeds are sown in May in shallow drills 
fifteen inches apart. The roots may be divided in spring or autumn. 

SUMMEE SAVOEY. 

No. 1387. — This is an annual species of Savory, and a native of 
the southern part of Europe. It is about one foot high, erect but 
slender, and produces its branches in pairs. The leaves, which are 
narrow and rigid, have a pleasant odor and a warm, aromatic taste. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 321 

When the plants have commenced to flower, they should be cut to 
the ground, tied in small bunches and dried in an airy, shady situ- 
ation. 

WINTEE SAVOEY. 

No. 1388. — This is a hardy evergreen shrub, about a foot in 
height, with a low, branching stem. The leaves are like those of 
Summer Savory. 

USE OP SAVOEY. 

No. 1389. — The green or dried aromatic tops of the plant are 
used to mix in stuffing for meat or fowl, in faggots for stews, in 
salads and with peas and beans. When dried it is sometimes pul- 
verized, and should then be kept in well-stopped vessels. The 
dried tops are preferred to the green ones for flavoring. 



Article CLXXXVIII. 



French SAVOY CABBAGE. German 

Chou Savoy, Savoyer or Maildnder. 

No. 1390. — This variety of Cabbage is a native of Italy. They 
are distinguished from the common head Cabbage by their 
peculiarly wrinkled or blistered leaves. They resemble the cauli- 
flower somewhat in texture and flavor, having but little of the 
musky odor and taste of the large varieties of Cabbage. They 
are hardier and more easily cultivated than the other varieties, but 
will seldom survive through the winter in open ground. A little 
frosty weather is considered necessary for the complete perfection 
of their texture and flavor. Their treatment during winter is the 
same as that of common Cabbages. For varieties and preparation, 
see Cabbage, Article XXX. 



ArTICLK CIvXXXIX. 



SCORZONARA, OR BLACK SALSIFY. 

Scorsonere. HaferwurzeU 

No. 1391. — This is a hardy, perennial plant. The root is tapering, 
slender and about one foot in length and an inch in diameter across 
the crown; the skin is grayish-black in color, and coarse. It is 
21 



322 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

cultivated exclusively for the roots, the flesh of which is white, 
tender, sugary and well flavored. Before they are cooked the 
coarse outer rind should be scraped off" and the roots soaked for a 
few hours in cold water to extract their bitter flavor. Prepare them 
for table use, the same as parsnips or as oyster plant are prepared. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1392. — It is cultivated in the same way as carrots or turnips, 
^being sown in April in the Southern States, or in July or August in 
the North, as the plants are liable to flower and run to seed, which 
impairs the value of the roots. Sow them fifteen inches apart in 
drills and half an inch deep. The roots will be ready for use in 
October. If required for use during winter, store them away the 
:same as oyster plant. 



Article CXC. 



FrencSi SCURVY GRASS. German 

Cochlearia. Loffelhraut. 

No. 1893. — This is a hardy, annual, maritime plant, common to 
the sea-coast. The root-leaves, which spread regularly from a 
common center, are heart-shaped, fleshy, smooth and glossy. The 
stem leaves are oblong and toothed on the margin. The radical 
leaves are used as a salad, and are sometimes mixed with cress. 
When bruised they emit an unpleasant odor, and have an acrid, 
bitter taste when eaten. The plant is used more for medicinal pur- 
poses than for cookery. 



Artici.k CXCI. 



SEA BEET. 
Bette. Mangold. 

No. 1394. — This is a hardy, perennial plant. It is cultivated 
exclusively for its leaves, which are the only part of the plant eateu . 
They are an excellent substitute for spinach, and by some are pre- 
ferred to it. If planted in good soil it will supply excellent leaves 
for years. The leaves that are produced earliest are the best, and 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 323 

are fit for use from May until wL en the plant begins to run to flower. 
However, tliey may be continued in perfection through the whole 
summer and autumn by cutting off the flower stems as they arise. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1395. — Sow them in April, in rows sixteen inches apart, and 
one inch under the soil. Thin them out to twelve inches apart in 
the rows.. The leaves should not be cut from the seedling plants 
during the first season. There are two varieties. The English Sea 
Beet is a dwarf variety, with ovate leaves about four inches in 
length, of a thick, fleshy texture, and a dark-green color. The 
Irish Sea Beet is about the same, but has larger leaves, and is gen- 
erally considered superior to the English variety. 



Article CXCII 



French SHA-XALK. Cermao 

Choux MarinsouCramhe Marithne. Seekohl, or Meerkohl. 

No. 1396. — Sea-Kale is a favorite vegetable in the Southern States. 
The young shoots that appear in spring are the parts eaten, but 
they are not good until blanched. Their flavor is somewhat like 
that of asparagus. As the plant is perennial, the young shoots do 
not appear until the second spring, and are then blanched. The 
sprouts are cut for use when from three to six inches high and con- 
tinue in season about six weeks. They are prepared the same as 
asparagus. The roots are injured by excessive cutting, and some 
of the shoots should be allowed to make their natural growth, so 
that strength may be secured for the next spring crop. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1397. — The ground should be trenched one or two feet deep, 
according to the soil, and should be well enriched throughout. 
When the plants are to remain, sow the seeds in April. Keep the 
plants clear from weeds, nip otf'the shoots of those that tend to run 
to flower and, in autumn, when the leaves have decayed, add a lib- 
eral dressing of compost manure. Early in spring stir a rake over 
the bed, being careful not to injure the crowns of the roots, and 
cover them from eight to ten inches deep with the material intended 



324 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

for blanching. A bed, with good culture and moderate use, will 
produce well for five or six years. 

SEA-KALE, WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

No. 1398. — Remove the leaves, wash and peel the stems carefully, 
and tie them in bunches the same as asparagus is tied. Then boil 
them in lightly salted water and, when cooked, drain them. Serve- 
them on a napkin or on a piece of toast, with Butter sauce or Cream 
sauce in a separate dish. 

SEA-KALE, HOLLANDAISE STYLE. 

No. 1399. — Prepare the Sea-Kale as in No. 1398, and when it is. 
cooked, serve it on a dish with some Hollandaise sauce poured 
over it. 

SEA-KALE WITH BROWN SAUCE. 

No. 1400. — Prepare and cook the Sea-Kale as in No. 1398. Thert 
drain it, and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss it 
over a brisk fire, season with salt and pepper, and add a little= 
Espagnole sauce, the juice of one lemon and a little finely chopped 
parsley. 

PUREE OF SEA-KALE. 

No. 1401. — Cut the Sea-Kale in small pieces and boil them in 
lightly salted water. When done, drain them on a napkin, and put 
them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar; then toss them over a brisk 
fire for a few minutes, and moisten them with some white broth. 
When the moisture is reduced, add some Allemande or Cream sauce, 
rub it through a fine sieve, put it in a flat saucepan and add a glass, 
of cream to reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Add a, 
piece of butter before serving. 



ArTICIvB cxciii. 



SEMOULE. 

Semoule. Semoule^ 

No. 1402. — Semoule is a paste similar to vermicelli, but comes 
in small hard grains. It is made from the whitest part of wheat 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 325 

flour, and in America is largely sold nnder the name of farina (see 
Parina, Article LXXXVIII). The White Semoule is made from rice 
flour, and the yellow kind from wheat flour, to which a saffron dye 
is added, with some coriander and the yolks of eggs. The yellow 
Semoule is considered best and is much relished when boiled in milk 
and sweetened. Semoule is used for soups and a variety of culinary 
preparations, and is a good food for invalids. 

CONSOMME, WITH SEMOULE. 

No. 1403. — Put four quarts of Consomme in a saucepan, and 
when it boils add in slowly half a pound of Semoule, stirring it 
well so it will not get lumpy. Let it boil slowly for twenty min- 
utes, season to taste, then skim it and serve. 

Note. — A Consomme with farina, manioca, sago, tapioca, vermicelli, or any kind of paste may be 
jnade the same as the above and, by adding a little cream diluted with the yolks of eggs, it will be 
more nourishing. 

SMALL CEUSTS OF SEMOULE, PALERMITAINE. 

No. 1404. — Put three quarts of clear white broth in a saucepan, 
add a small piece of butter, season with salt and, when it boils, add 
in slowly two pounds of Semoule, stirring it gently, so it will not 
get lumpy. Then set it on the side of the fire to cook slowly until 
thoroughly cooked, keeping it firm. When done take it off of the 
fire and add two ounces of butter and six ounces of grated Parmesan 
cheese. Mix it well together and put it in a buttered square tin 
pan, having the mixture about one and a half inches deep. Smooth 
the surface evenly, cover it with a buttered paper cover and set it 
aside to get cold. Then turn it out on a table and, with a round 
cutter the size of a dollar, cut out as many pieces as possible. Roll 
them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs, and then 
bread them again. Form them nicely in shape and, with a cutter 
the size of a twenty-five cent piece, make a slight impression on the 
top of each to mark the cover. Then fry them in hot lard and, 
when nicely browned, drain them and in a few minutes take off the 
cover and scoop out the center, being careful not to injure the crust. 
Keep them warm until ready for use. Then make a garniture of 
small boiled macaroni (spaghetti), cut in pieces a quarter of an inch 
long, mixed with the same quantity of small pieces of the breast of 
roasted quails or partridges, and an equal quantity of lean boiled 
ham and artichoke bottoms cut in small pieces. Put the garniture 
in a reduced Madeira wine sauce, add a few drops of lemon juice 
and mix it gently together. Then fill the crusts with the garniture 
and serve hot. 



326 haeder's ameeican cookeey 

balls of semoule (quenelles,) villeroi. 

No. 1405. — Put one quart of milk in a saucepan and, when it boils, 
add in slowly three-quarters of a pound of Semoule, stirring it 
gently, so it will not get lumpy. Then set it on the side of the fire 
to cook slowly until it is thoroughly cooked, keeping it firm. Take 
it off of the fire, let it cool a little, then add a handful of grated Par- 
mesan cheese and the yolks of ten raw eggs, mixing it well, and 
season with salt and a pinch of nutmeg. Then let it get cool. 

Now cut some truffles, mushrooms and the breast of a roasted 
fowl, in a short Julienne, and add them to a succulent and well re- 
duced Madeira wine or Allemande sauce, and set it aside to get 
cold. 

Prepare some small, oblong granulated Tartlet moulds and butter 
them with clarified butter. Put in each mould a thin layer of 
Semoule and smooth it neatly with a knife, leaving the centre hol- 
low. Then fill them with the above garniture, cover the top with 
Semoule, allowing it to form on top in a semi-oval shape, and 
smooth it off neatly. Set them aside to get cold and firm. Then 
take them out of the moulds and dip them in a cool Villeroi sauce, 
place them in a pan side by side, and set the pan on the ice so 
the sauce will adhere to them. Then trim them nicely, roll them 
in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs and bread them 
again. (Handle them very carefully.) Now fry them in hot 
lard and, when nicely colored, drain them and serve them on a 
napkin. 



Article CXCIV. 



French SHALLOT, OR ESCHALOT. Germait 

Echalote. Sehalotte. 

No. 1406. — The Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is used in 
the same manner as the onion, or garlic. The root of the plant is 
composed of several small bulbs united at the base, the whole being 
enclosed in a thin skin, varying in color in the different varieties. 
The ripening will be indicated by the decay of the leaves. After 
the bulbs are dried they should be stored in a light, dry situation. 
When exposed to frost or put in a damp cellar they rapidly decay. 
In flavor it is mild and pleasant, resembling the leek. They are 
prepared and cooked in the same manner as onions or garlic. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 327 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1407. — The Shallot will thrive in any soil that is adapted to 
the onion. The bulbous roots are readily increased by off sets, but 
seldom attain a large size. Plant them in April in drills one foot 
apartj and cover them lightly with soil. 

COMMON SMALL SHALLOT. 

No. 1408. — This is an excellent early variety, and keeps well. 
The bulbs are about three-fourths of an inch in diameter and have 
a reddish yellow skin. 

JEESEY. 

No. 1409. — A very early variety, quite tender, but decays early. 
The large bulbs are enclosed in a light-brown skin as fine in texture 
as the onion skin. 

LONG KEEPING. 

No. 1410. — This variety resembles the common Shallot, but is 
considered superior to it on account of its keeping qualities, and as 
it is less subject to the attacks of the maggot. It will keep from 
twelve to eighteen months. 

ESSENCE OE SHALLOTS. 

No. 1411. — Chop one dozen Shallots finel}^, put them in a sauce- 
pan with a piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then add one 
pint of veal gravy and let it reduce to one-third of its quantity. 
Then season with salt and pepper and strain it through a towel. 



Articlk CXCV. 



Frencli SHEPHERD'S PURSE. German 

Capselle. Tdschelkraut. 

No. 1412. — This is a hardy annual plant that grows naturally in 
gardens. The root leaves spread out from a common centre, and 
in good soil attain a length of about eight inches. The stem leaves 
rest closely upon the sta^i, being oval at the base. Under high 
cultivation the plants will attaifi a diameter of twenty inches. It 
is prepared in the same manner as spinach, or is served like en- 
dives, making an excellent salad. 



328 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

GULTUEE. 

No. 1413. — Sow them in May in shallow drills fourteen inches 
apart and thin the young shoots to four inches apart. Cover the 
beds with coarse stable litter late in Autumn, and remove it in the 
latter part of February. The plants will be ready for use in March 
or April. 



Article; CXCVI. 



Trench SIEVA, OR SMALL LIMA BEAN. German 

'Sieve (Petite Feve). Bohne. 

No. 1414. — The Sieva is a variety of the Lima Bean, the plant 
attaining a height of ten feet. The pods are small and uniform in 
size, generally about three inches long and seven inches wide. 
When young they are green and wrinkled, but when ripe they turn 
to a pale yellowish-brown. They are a little earlier than the Lima 
Bean, but require the whole season for their complete maturity. 
The seeds are white, or of a dull yellowish-white, broad and flat- 
tened. They are similar to the Lima Beans, and are almost as 
delicate and richly flavored. The young pods are hard and tough, 
and are never eaten. This is the most productive of all varieties. 

MOTTLED sieva. 

No. 1415. — A sub-variety of the Sieva, the only difference be- 
tween them being in the variegated character of the seeds, which 
are of a dull white color, spotted and streaked with purple. 



Articlk CXCVI I 



SKIRRET. 

Berle Chervi. Zuclcerwurzel. 

No. 1416. — Skirret is a hardy perennial plant that is cultivated 
for its roots, which are produced in bunches at the crown or neck 
of the plant. They are oblong and fleshy, with a russet-brown skin, 
the flesh being white and sugary. When well grown they measure 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 329 

from sis to eight inches in length and almost an inch in diameter. 
They are the whitest and sweetest of esculent roots and are very 
nourishing. They are prepared for the table in the same manner 
•as the oyster plant. 



Articlk cxcviii. 



SNAKE OR SERPENT CUCUMBER. 

French Gerninn 

Concombre Serpentine. Schlangengurke. 

No. 1417. — This resembles the musk-melon in its manner of 
;growth and in the color and taste of the ripe fruit, which is slender 
and flexuous. It is about three feet long and is often gracefully 
•coiled in a serpent-like form. The skin is green, and its Hesh is 
white when young and yellow at maturity. It is grown principally 
"On account of its peculiar shape for a garden vegetable, but is 
seldom used in cookery. The fruit may be pickled in the same 
manner as common cucumbers. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1418. — Sow the seeds in May in hills six feet apart, and cover 
them with half an inch of soil. Give them the same attention that 
■cucumbers or melons require. 



Article CXCIX. 



SORREL, 

~OseiUe. Saueratvpfer. 

No. 1419. — Sorrel is a hardy perennial plant. The species as 
well as the varieties differ to a considerable extent in height and 
.general habit, yet their usage is nearly the same. The finest roots 
are obtained from seedlings. These varieties are propagated by 
dividing the roots. This method must be adopted in the propaga- 
tion of the di vicious kinds when the male plants are required. All 
of the varieties will send up a flower-stalk in summer, and it is 
necessary to cut the stalk when it first develops in order to render 



330 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the leaves larger and more tender. Sorrel is used for soups and 
purees, and is preserved for winter use. It is one of the most 
wholesome vegetables, and would be particularly beneficial to that 
class of the community that live much upon salt provisions. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1420. — Sorrel is cultivated easily, and may be grown in almost, 
any soil or situation, but thrives best in rich, moist soil. Sow it in 
April in drills fifteen inches apart, and cover it with half an inch 
of soil. Thin them out to ten inches apart. 

BELLEVILLE SORREL. 

No. 1421. — The leaves are about ten inches long, by six inches 
in diameter, and are larger and less acid than the common garden 
Sorrel. The leaf stems are red at the base. 

BLISTERED-LEAF SORREL. 

No. 1422. — This is similar to the common variety except that the 
foliage is blistered. It develops slowly and consequently remains- 
longer in season. 

fervent' S LARGE SORREL. 

No. 1423. — This is a hardy and excellent variety that produces 
abundantly. The leaves are large, of a yellowish-green color, and 
are put forth very early. 

SARSCELLE BLOND SORREL. 

No. 1424. — This is a sub-variety of the Belleville, with larger and 
narrower leaves, and pale leaf-stems. It puts forth the leaves 
earlier than the common Sorrel and is of excellent quality. 

FRENCH, OR ROUND-LEAVED SORREL. 

No. 1425. — The leaves vary in form, being roundish and heart- 
shaped, smooth, glaucous and entire on the borders. The leaves 
are more aciduous than any of the other varieties, and for this reason 
are preferred by many. 

SORREL WITH CREAM. 

No. 1426.— Pick the stems off of the Sorrel, wash the leaves in 
plenty of cold water, then drain them, and chop them finely with a 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 331 

head of lettuce, tlie same quantity of young beet leaves, and a 
little chervil. Mix them well together; then put them in a sauce- 
pan with a small piece of butter, and stir them slowly until the 
butter is melted. Then season with salt and pepper and, when well 
cooked, add a pint of cream diluted with the yolks of five raw eggs. 
Serve hot. 

SORREL WITH GRAVY. 

No. 1427. — Prepare and cook the Sorrel as in No. 1426, and, when 
cooked, drain oif some of the moisture, and add a good gravy in- 
stead of the cream. 

SORREL PUREE, FOR GARNITURES. 

No. 1428. — Prepare and wash the Sorrel as in No. 1426; then put 
it in a saucepan with a pint of water, and season it with salt and 
pepper. Set it on a brisk fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon 
until it is well cooked. Then drain it in a colander, and in twenty 
minutes rub it through a fine sieve. Then put four ounces of butter 
and two spoonfuls of flour in a saucepan, and let it cook for five 
minutes, stirring it well. Add the Sorrel, moisten it with a pint of 
broth and let it cook for ten minutes. Then add a cup of milk 
diluted with the yolks of three raw eggs, and stir the whole well 
until thoroughly mixed. 

SORREL PUREE, WITH SAUCE, FOR GARNITURES. 

No. 1429. — Prepare and cook the Sorrel as in No. 1426, and when 
it is rubbed through the sieve, put it in a saucepan with four spoon- 
fuls of Allemande sauce. When it is reduced to its proper con- 
sistency, season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Before serving, 
add a piece of butter, mixing it all well. 

SORREL SOUP. 

No. 1430. — Wash and trim two pounds of Sorrel, two heads of 
lettuce and a little chervil, and then cut them in fine shreds. Put 
them in a saucepan with six ounces of butter, and stir the whola 
over the fire for twenty-five minutes with a wooden spoon until 
it is melted. Then add four spoonfuls of flour, and let it cook 
for ten minutes, stirring it well. (Dilute the flour so there will be 
no lumps.) Then add in slowly two quarts of boiling water, and as 
soon as it boils up, set it to one side to boil slowly, and season with. 
salt and pepper. Twenty minutes later add one quart of broth. 



332 HAEDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

When it is ready to serve, prepare the following: Dilute a pint 
of cream with the yolks of four raw eggs; beat it up well, and 
strain it through a sieve. Add this to the soup with six ounces of 
butter stirring it well until the butter is melted. Cut two 
French rolls in fine slices, brown them nicely in the oven, and put 
them in a soup tureen. Then pour the soup over them and serve. 

SORREL SOUP FOR FAST DAYS. 

No. 1431. — Prepare the soup as in No. 1430, but instead of broth 
add one quart of milk diluted with six raw eggs. 

SORREL SOUP WITH CREAM. 

No. 1432. — Prepare the soup as in No. 1430, and, when the flour 
is cooked, moisten it with three quarts of chicken or veal broth, 
stirring it until it boils. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil 
slowly for twenty-five minutes, and season with salt and pepper. 

When ready to serve, prepare the following: Dilute a pint of 
milk with the yolks of eight raw eggs and six ounces of butter. 
Add this to the soup, stirring it well until the butter is melted. 
Cut two French rolls in fine slices, brown them in the oven, and 
put them in a soup tureen. Then pour the soup over them and 
^serve. 

PRESERVED SORREL. 

No. 1433. — Wash and trim the Sorrel and put it in a saucepan 
with one quart of water. Then set it on a brisk fire, stirring it 
until it is melted. Then drain it in a colander and let it stand for 
one hour. After this rub it through a fine sieve and put it in quart 
tin cans or in jars. Close them hermetically, and boil them in a 
-hot water bath for one hour and a half. When ready to use, finish 
it the same as in Nos. 1426 and 1427. 



ArticIvK CC. 



Trend! SOUTHERWOOD, OR BALM-MINT. German 

-Aurome OiironneUe. Stahwurz. 

No. 1434. — This is a hardy shrubby plant, which is propagated 
by dividing the roots. The leaves, which are pale-green in color, 
are divided into narrow, thread-like segments, and have a strong, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 335: 

resinous, aromatic and pleasant odor, but are bitter to the taste. 
The root is seldom used, but the leaves and young branches are 
employed in the same manner and for the same purposes as common 
wormwood. 



Article CCI. 



French SPANISH OYSTER PLANT. Germatt 

Salsifis. Haferwurz, 

No. 1435. — This is generally treated as an annual plant when cul- 
tivated. The roots are almost white, fleshy, long and tapering in 
their general form. When they are bruised, a thick, viscous fluid 
exudes, which is almost flavorless, and of a milky-white color. It. 
is cultivated exclusively for its roots, which are taken up in Sep- 
tember or October, and are served during the winter. They have a. 
pleasant, delicate flavor, and are healthful and nutritious. They 
are prepared the same as Salsify or Oyster Plant. See Article^ 
CLXXXII. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1436. — Sow the seeds in April, in drills fourteen inches apart, 
and cover them with one inch of soil. Thin the young plants out 
to five inches apart, and during the summer treat the growing crops 
as you would parsnips or carrots. 



Article: CCI I 



SPEARMINT. 

Menihe Verie. Frauenmunze. 

No. 1437. — Spearmint is a hardy perennial plant, and is generally 
cultivated in gardens, but grows naturally about springs of water, 
and in rich, wet localities. It may be grown from seed, but is 
propagated best by a division of the roots, which are long and creep- 
ing, and readily establish themselves wherever they are planted. 
The roots may be set either in autumn or spring. Spearmint is 
used mixed in salads and boiled with green peas, and with the ad- 
dition of sugar and vinegar forms a much esteemed relish for roasted 
lamb. The common Mint is superior to Spearmint for every 
purpose. 



334 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Article: CCIII 



Frcuch SPICSS. Oernian 

Epice. Wilrze. 

No. 1438. — Spices are used to season, aromatize and enricli 
numerous culinary preparations. They are all vegetable substances 
witli the exception of salt. Their importance cannot be overesti- 
mated as they are used constantly, yet often wrongfully. The art 
of spicing or seasoning properly is one that must be acquired, and 
experience is the best teacher. Many preparations would be indi- 
gestible and almost tasteless without the use of spices. Salt is 
probably used most, and after it comes the onions, shallots, 
chives, and garlic. The onion is used principally as an 
alimentary substance, while the others may be considered 
energetic stimulants to the appetite. High seasoning is more in 
vogue in the Southern States and in all Avarm climates, than in the 
North. The French, as a rule, use less strong spices in cooking 
than any other nation, preferring aromatic herbs instead, which 
answer the same purpose and are less exciting. India furnishes the 
major portion of strong spices, such as mulligatawny, chutney, 
curry, etc. 

SPICES FOR SALTED BEEF. 

No. 1439. — Home-made spices are far superior to many of those 
bought from dealers, as the latter kinds are generally adulterated, 
and if not kept tightly corked lose their aromatic flavor by evap- 
oration. The following is the best recipe for making Spices for 
salted beef: Procure the following quantities of dried herbs: Two 
ounces each of thyme, sage, nutmeg, cloves, mace, and bay leaves; 
three ounces of white pepper, and one ounce each of marjoram and 
rosemary. Then pound each kind separately in a mortar and sift 
them through a fine sieve. Put the mixture in bottles and keep 
them tightly corked. When ready to use it add one ounce of the 
Spice to one pound of salt. 

SPICED SALT, FOR STUFFINGS. 

No. 1440. — Procure the following quantities of dried herbs: One- 
half of an ounce each of powdered thyme, cloves, nutmeg, white or 
black pepper, and one-quarter of an ounce each of powdered bay 
leaves, marjoram, and red pepper. Mix them with one and a half 
pounds of fine salt, then put them in bottles and keep them tightly 
corked. Use it for stuffing. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 335 

INFUSION OF SPICES FOR TURTLE SOUP. 

No. 1441. — Put a few fresh marjoram leaves in a saucepan and 
add equal quantities of thyme, basil, savory and parsley, with two 
bay leaves, three chopped shallots, and some trimmings of fresh 
mushrooms. (Dried mushrooms can be used if desired.) Then 
boil one pint of good Maderia wine and pour it over the herbs, etc. 
Cover the saucepan tightly, and in half an hour strain the infusion 
through a napkin and add it to a clear turtle soup. 

Note. — Should the turtle soup be thick iustead of clear, use powdered spices instead of leaves 
and add them to the stock. 

MIXED SPICES. 

No. 1442. — ^The following mixture of Spices will always be found 
useful in the kitchen. Procure the following quantities of ground 
Spices: Eight ounces of thyme, one ounce of bay leaves, half an 
ounce of marjoram, half an ounce of rosemary, one and a half ounces 
of nutmeg, one and a half ounces of cloves, one ounce of white 
pepper, and half an ounce of red pepper. Mix them well together, 
put them in bottles and keep them tightly corked. These Spices 
may be used as they are, or may be mixed with salt. Three ounces 
of Spice is the proper quantity for three-quarters of a pound of salt. 

SPICED SAUCE. 

No. 1448. — Put in a bowl a teaspoonful of ground cloves, one 
ounce of Anchovy paste, half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and 
a wine-glassful each "of walnut and tomato catchup (strained). Add 
to this one and a half quarts of white wine vinegar, and mix it well 
together. Then put it in an earthen jar, cover it, and set it in a 
saucepan containing water. Let it boil for two hours; then take out 
the jar, set it aside for a week, and then filter the sauce. Put it in 
bottles and cork them tightly. 

SPICES, HERRS AND FLAVORS. 

No. 1444. — The following Spices, Herbs and Flavors should al- 
ways be kept in every family kitchen : Fine and coarse salt, whole 
and ground red, white and black pepper, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, 
mace, dried thyme, sage, marjoram, bay leaves, and the mixed 
spices; garlic, shallots, English mustard, powdered and stick cin- 
namon. The flavors are vanilla, lemon, orange, orange-ilower 
water, olive oil, wine, tarragon and Chili pepper vinegar; granu- 
lated, powdered and cube white sugar and brown sugar. 



336 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



Article: cciv. 



French SPINACH OR SPINAGE. German 

Epinard, Spinat. 

No. 1445. — Spinach is a hardy annual plant, and is said to be of 
Asiatic origin. The leaves and young stems are the only parts of 
the plant that are used, being extremely wholesome and palatable, 
and retaining their bright green color after being cooked. The 
leaves are smooth and oval-oblong shaped, though varying in the 
different varieties. Spinach is prepared in various ways and is. 
eaten with almost every kind of meat. The expressed juice is used 
to impart a greenish color to certain dishes. It affords but little 
nourishment, but when eaten freely, is mildly laxative, diuretic and 
cooling. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1446. — It should be planted in very rich ground. Sow it a 
foot apart, in drills, and commence thinning out the plants when 
the leaves are an inch wide. When they are two or three inches, 
wide, they will be fit to gather. This is done by cutting them up 
with a knife entirely to the bottom, or by only cropping the large 
outer leaves. The root and heart should remain to shoot out again 
according to the season. 



FLANDERS SPINACH. 

No. 1447. — This is a winter variety, and is considered superior to 
the Prickly Spinach which is in general cultivation during the 
winter season. The seeds are sown about the last of August, in 
drills one foot apart and nearly an inch deep. The Prickly-seeded 
Spinach is cultivated and used the same way as this variety. 

LETTUCE-LEAVED SPINACH. 

No. 1448. — This is a fine productive variety, having short stems 
and large leaves that are rounded and of a deep green color tinged 
with blue. 

SORREL-LEAVED SPINACH. 

No. 1449. — The leaves are pointed, of medium size, deep green, 
thick and fleshy. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. , 337 

SUMMER ROUND-LEAYED SPINACH. 

No. 1450. — This variety should be sown early in spring, but it 
soon runs to seed, particularly in warm, dry weather. The leaves 
are large, round, thick and fleshy. 

WINTER COMMON PRICKLY SPINACH. 

No. 1451. — This is a hardy perennial plant that is prepared in the 
same way as the common Spinach. The leaves are arrow-shaped, 
smooth, deep green, undulated on the borders, and mealy on the 
under surface. 

HOW TO PREPARE SPINACH EOR BOILING. 

No. 1452, — Remove the large stems, wash the leaves in plenty of 
cold water, and drain them in a colander. Then put them in a 
saucepan containing some lightly salted boiling water and, with a 
wooden spoon, keep the Spinach under the water, letting it boil 
over a brisk fire until cooked. Then immerse it in cold water, 
drain it, and press out all of the water. 

SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE. 

No. 1453. — Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452. Let it 
remain entire, or, if desired, chop it coarsely and put it in a sauce- 
pan with a piece of butter. Season with salt and pepper and, when 
it is thoroughly warmed, serve it plain, or garnish it with slices of 
boiled bacon. 

SPINACH, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1454. — Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452; then 
chop it finely and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. 
Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; stir it well with a 
wooden spoon, and when it is thoroughly warmed, add a few spoon- 
fuls of veal gravy. Then serve it, having the dish garnished with 
hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, or small pieces of buttered toast 
cut in fancy shapes. 

SPINACH WITH GRAVY, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1455. — Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452, and 

chop it finely. Then put four ounces of butter in a saucepan and, 

when it is melted, add two soup-spoonfuls of flour and let it cook to a 

light-brown. Then add three large handfuls of the chopped Spinach, 

22 



338 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

stir it in well with a wooden spoon, then add some veal broth,, 
and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Before serv- 
ing add a piece of butter and garnish the dish with poached eggs,.. 
or small pieces of toasted bread. 

SPINACH WITH MILK, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1456. — Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1-445, using 
boiled milk instead of meat gravy. 

SPINACH WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 1457. — Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1445, then 
press out all of the water and chop it finely. Put four ounces 
of butter in a saucepan, and when it is lightly browned add three 
handfuls of the chopped Spinach. Stir it well with a wooden 
spoon, while adding a cup of cream, and season with salt, pepper, 
and nutmeg. (Two spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce may also 
be added, if desired.) Serve with hard boiled eggs, cut in halves,, 
and arranged around the dish. 

SPINACH, PIEMONTAISE. 

No. 1458. — Prepare and cook the Spinach as in No. 1452, and 
chop it finely. Then put a piece of butter in a saucepan, and when 
it is melted add a little finely chopped garlic, and shortly after, add 
three handfuls of the chopped Spinach and a spoonful of Anchovy 
paste. Mix them well together, season with salt and pepper and 
add two spoonfuls of light Espagnole sauce. Before serving 
garnish the dish with poached eggs, or small pieces of toasted bread. 

SPINACH FOR GARNITURES. 

No. 1459. — Spinach prepared as in No. 1453, is used as a garni- 
ture for boiled bacon, pigs' jowl, or any large joints when Spinach 
is served with them. 

Spinach prepared as in Nos. 1455, 1456 and 1457, is served as a. 
garniture for braised meats, entrees, or any kind of broiled or fried 
meat, especially veal and lamb. 

SPINACH FRITTERS (SUBRICS). 

Na. 1460. — Chop one quart of boiled Spinach 'finely and put it 
in a flat saucepan with four spoonfuls of Cream or Allemande sauce. 
Beduce it on a brisk fire and then set it on the side of the fire. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 339 

Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add a small piece of 
butter and the yolks of eight raw eggs. Mix the whole well to- 
gether and set it aside to get cold. Then put some clarified butter 
in a frying pan, and drop the Spinach into it, one spoonful at a 
time, and manage it so that they will not touch each other. Fry 
them nicely on both sides ; then serve them on a napkin and garnish 
with fried parsley. 

GEEEN COLOR OF SPINACH. 

No. 1461. — Pick, wash and drain five large handfuls of Spinach. 
Then put it in a mortar, pound it finely and add six glassfuls of 
cold water. After this, strain it through a towel, pressing it well 
to extract all of the moisture. Then put it in a saucepan on the 
fire, and just before it boils, set it on the side of the fire, keeping- 
it at the boiling heat, but not allowing it to boil. Then drain 
it in a fine hair sieve. That which remains in the sieve is used for 
coloring. 

Another way of making the green color is as follows : Throw 
three handfuls of Spinach in some boiling water, with a little pars- 
ley and chives. Let it remain there one minute; then immerse it 
in cold water, drain it, and press it dry. Then put it in a mortar, 
pound it finely, and rub it through a fine sieve. After this moisten 
it with a little cold white broth. 

CREAM OF SPINACH. 

No. 1462. — Put four soup-spoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked 
Spinach and one dozen sweet almonds in a mortar, and pound them 
into a fine paste. Then add four macaroons made with bitter 
almonds, and sweeten with sugar to taste. Pound the whole well, 
and then add a quart of cream and the yolks of ten raw eggs. Mix 
them well together and strain the mixture through a sieve. Put it 
in a small mould and cook it the same as a custard. 



Article CCV. 



FremcSi SQUASH. German 

Courge. Kuerbis. 

No. 1463. — The Squash is one of the most nutritious and valuable 
of all garden vegetables. The summer varieties appear early, and 



340 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

are very palatable, while the winter sorts can be had in perfection 
in August. All of the varieties are tender annuals and thrive best 
in a warm temperature. 

cultuee. 

No. 1464. — Plant them in warm weather, and cultivate them 
generally as you would cucumbers or melons, being particular about 
the soil. The summer varieties should be planted six feet apart 
each way, and the winter varieties at a distance of eight feet. Three 
plants are sufficient for one hill. Care should be taken not to 
injure or break the stems of those intended for winter use, as the 
.slightest injury increases their liability to decay. 

SUMMER VARIETIES. 

APPLE SQUASH. 

No. 1465. — This variety is healthy and vigorous, but not stocky. 
The skin is thin, tender and yellowish-white in color when young. 
It is hard and shell-like when ripe. When green and small, the 
flesh is dry and well flavored. 

• 

CEOOKED NECK SUMMEE BUSH SQUASH. 

No. 1466. — This is a dwarf variety about two and a half feet 
high. The fruit is largest at the blossom end and tapers gradually 
to the neck, which is solid and more or less curved. The skin is 
tender, warty and easily broken. When young, the flesh is of a 
greenish-yellow color, dry and well flavored. It is one of the finest 
summer varieties, but is used only when young and tender and when 
the skin can be pierced easily. When the skin hardens the flesh 
becomes watery, strongly jQavored and unfit for table use. , 

EAELY YELLOW SCALLOPED BUSH SQUASH. 

No. 1467. — This is an erect, dwarf variety. The fruit is hemi- 
spherical in form, and expanded at the edge, which is deeply and 
regularly scalloped. It is yellow in color, and the skin, while 
young, is thin and easily pierced. When it matures the skin is 
hard and shell-like. The flesh is pale-yellow in color, finely 
grained and well flavored. It is not as dry as the summer crooked 
neck variety. 

EGG SQUASH. 

No. 1468. — This is an ornamental variety and is generally culti- 
vated for its peculiar egg-like fruit, being seldom used for the table. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 341 

GKEEN- STRIPED BEEGEN SQUASH. 

No, 1469. — This variety, wliicli is largely cultivated in the 
Eastern States, is early, but not very productive. It is eaten either 
when green or when fully ripe. It is a small and vigorous plant, 
with bell-shaped fruit of a dark green color, striped with white. 

LARGE WAETED, CROOKED NECK SUMMER SQUASH. 

No. 1470. — It is similar to the dwarf variety but much larger in 
size. The skin is of a clear, bright yellow color, with wart-like 
excrescences over the surface. The flesh is of a greenish-yellow 
color and is coarse in texture. It is hardy and productive. 

ORANGE SQUASH. 

No. 1471. — This variety is cultivated more as an ornament than 
for table use. The fruit is of the size, form and color of an orange. 

AUTUMN AND WINTER VARIETIES. 

AUTUMNAL MARROW SQUASH. 

No. 1472. — The fruit is pointed at the extremities, and the stem 
is large and fleshy. The skin is thin and easily bruised or broken, 
having a creainy-yellow color when first ripened, which changes to 
red when the fruit remains on the plants after maturity. The flesh 
is of a salmon-yellow color, being dry, finely grained, sweet and 
excellent in flavor. If kept free from cold a ad dampness they may 
be preserved until March. 

BUSH OR DWARF VEGETABLE, MARROW SQUASH. 

No. 1473. — This is a small, early, hardy and productive variety. 
It will keep through the winter, but is not particularly excellent 
for table use. It is a good Squash for pie. 

CANADA CROOKED NECK SQUASH. 

No. 1474. — This variety is the smallest and best of its class, and 
will keep well all of the year. The skin is of moderate thickness, 
and of a creamy-yellow color when ripe, becoming darker, how- 
ever, after maturity. The flesh is of a salmon-red color, closely 
grained, sweet and finely flavored. 



342 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

CASH AW. 

^o. 1475. — There are two kinds of this variety. The first is nearly 
Touncl and the other somewhat curved. The hotter is the most 
desirable. 

COCOA-NUT SQUASH. 

No. 1476. — The fruit is oval, almost twenty inches long and ten 
inches in diameter. The thin skin is of an ashy-gray color, spotted 
with light drab. The flesh, which is of a deep orange-yellow color, 
is of medium thickness. The quality varies. Sometimes the flesh 
is finely grained, dry, sweet and of a rich nut-like flavor, but often 
some that are well matured are coarse, fibrous, watery and unfit for 
the table. 

CUSTARD SQUASH. 

No. 1477. — The fruit is oblong, and gathered in deep folds near 
the stem, having a creamy-white skin. The flesh is pale-yellow in 
color, but not particularly fine in texture, having, however, a good 
flavor. 

EGG SHAPED SQUASH. 

No. 1478. — The fruit is large, with a reddish skin. The flesh is 
red, firm, and excellent in flavor, being a good table Squash. 

HONOLULU SQUASH. 

No. 1479. — This variety has thick flesh, of a reddish-orange color, 
and good flavor. It keeps well, and is excellent for pies and table 
use. 

HUBBARD SQUASH. 

No. 1480. — The flesh is thick, finely grained, sweet, dry and of 
excellent flavor, which resembles that of roasted or boiled chestnuts. 

MAMMOTH SQUASH. 

No. 1481. — This is the largest fruited variety known, weighing 
from one hundred to two hundred pounds, if grown under favorable 
conditions. The fruit is round, and sometimes a little flattened on 
the under side. It is used only when full grown, but will keep 
through the winter, if kept in a warm situation. The flesh is sweet, 
though generally coarsely grained and deep yellow in color. It is 
used for pies and soups. 

TURBAN SQUASH. 

No. 1482. — This is classed as one of the best varieties, although 
its keeping qualities are not good. It is fit for use early in autumn. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 343 

VEGETABLE MAKEOW SQUASH. 

No. 1483. — The skin is hard, and of a pale yellow color when per- 
fectly ripe. The flesh is white, tender and succulent, even until the 
seeds are ripe, and may be used in any. stage of its growth. It will 
keep through the winter, when perfectly ripe, if stored in a dry 
place out of the reach of frost. 

WILDER SQUASH. 

No. 1484. — This kind is superior to many of the other varieties 
for pies and culinary purposes. 

WINTER CROOKED-NECK SQUASH. 

No. 1485. — This is a hardy productive variety, that ripens with 
great certainty, and suffers less from insects than the other sorts. 
It keeps well. 

WINTER, STRIPED, CROOKED-NECK SQUASH. 

No. 1486. — This variety is hardy, prolific and large, and keeps 
well. 

YOKOHAMA SQUASH. 

No. 1487. — A roundish, somewhat flattened, Japanese varietv, 
strongly ribbed. The skin is warted, and deep green in color when 
young, changing to a dull yellow. The flesh is of an orange-yellow 
color, finely grained, dry and sweet. 

MASHED SQUASH. 

No. 1488. — Peel the Squash, cut it in scallops, and put them in a 
saucepan containing suflicient water to cover them. Add a little 
salt, cover the pan, and set it on a brisk fire to boil. When they 
are cooked, drain them, and then rub them through a colander. 
Then put them back in the saucepan, season with salt and pepper, 
add a piece of butter, mix them well and let them get thorcyighly 
warmed. The Squash may also be steamed the same as potatoes. 

Note.— All varieties of Squash are prepared in the same maimer. 

STUFFED SQUASH, ROMAN STYLE. 

No. 1489. — Select two dozen small, young, and tender Squash. 
Cut ofi" the top of each and scoop out the center, leaving the shell 



344 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY, 

half an incli stick. Parboil tliem for three minutes, then drain 
them on a napkin with the open side at the bottom. 

Now chop two white onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a 
small piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Cut the Squash that 
was scooped out in small pieces, put them in the saucepan with a 
little broth, and let them cook until the broth is reduced to a glaze. 
Then add one quarterof a pound of roast lamb cut in small pieces, 
one quarter of a pound of rice that has been cooked in broth, and 
a little finely chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and 
add four spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Mix the whole well 
together over the fire. Fill the Squash with this stuffing, put them 
in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork, and moisten 
them with broth. Set them in the oven to cook slowly and, when 
nicely browned, dish them up. Pour a teaspoonful of reduced 
plain Tomato sauce over each Squash and serve separately a bowl 
of Tomato sauce. 

STUEPED SQUASH, STANFORD STYLE. 

No. 1490. — Prepare the Squash as in No. 1489. Chop two large 
onions finely, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter or 
sweet oil and fry them lightly. Then add the Squash and, when 
the moisture is reduced, add two handfuls of fresh bread crumbs. 
Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add a little finely chopped 
parsley and the yolks of four raw eggs and mis the whole well to- 
gether. Stufi^ the Squash with this preparation, sprinkle bread 
crumbs over them and put a piece of butter on top of each one. 
Put them in a buttered baking pan, bake them slowly in the oven 
until nicely browned, and serve them with a reduced Madeira wine 
sauce. 

FRIED STUFFED SQUASH, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1491. — Prepare, stuff and bake the Squash as in No. 1490. 
Then let them get cold. Now peel them and cut them in halves. 
Boll them in fresh bread crumbs, dip them in beaten eggs and bread 
them again. Then fry them in hot lard and serve them on a napkin 
with a brown Italian sauce separate. 

, FRIED SQUASH, BOSTON STYLE. 

No. 1492. — Peel half a dozen Squash, cut them in scallops half 
an inch thick, throw them into boiling water for three minutes, and 
then drain them. Put them into an earthen bowl, season with 
salt and pepper, and let them remain there for one hour, tossing 
them over occasionally. Then dry them on a napkin, roll them in 
flour, fry them in hot lard, and serve them on a napkin. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 345 

SQUASH, SPANISH STITLE. 

No. 1493, — Peel one doeen Squash, cut tliem in quarters, trim 
them, and parboil them for three minutes. Then drain them dry, 
arrange them in a flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat 
pork, and moisten them with broth to cover. Season with salt and 
pepper, add a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme 
and one bay leaf, and cook them on a brisk fire. When the broth 
is reduced to one-quarter, the Squash will be cooked. Then take 
them out, strain the broth into another saucepan, skim off the 
grease, and add two spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole sauce. Then. 
add the Squash with a little finely-chopped parsley, and serve. 

SCALLOPED SQUASH, ASTOR STYLE. 

No. 1494. — Peel half a dozen small, young and tender Squash. 
Cut them in quarters, trim the edges, and parboil them for three 
minutes. Then drain and dry them, and put them into a flat sauce- 
pan with some clarified butter. Season with salt and pepper. 
Cover the saucepan and let them cook slowly until nicely glazed. 
Dish them up, and add to the gravy in the saucepan a small piece 
of butter, the juice of half a lemon and some finely-chopped 
parsley. Stir it well, off of the fire, until the butter is melted; then 
]30ur it over the scallops, and serve them hot. 



ArticIvK CCVI. 



STRAWBERRY TOMATO, OR ALKEKENGI. 

French Clerniait 

Tomate (f raise.) Lieberapfel Erdbeere. 

No. 1495. — This is a hardy annual plant common to the Southern 
States. They are prolific and will thrive in almost any kind of soil. 
The fruit has a juicy pulp, and when first tasted has a pleasant, 
strawberry-like flavor with a certain degree of sweetness and 
acidity combined. The after taste, however, is much less agreea- 
ble, being similar to that of the common Tomato. The fruit is 
served raw with the addition of lemon juice, and is also preserved 
like plums and stewed and served like cranberries. Sow and 
cultivate them the same as the common Tomatoes. 



•346 hakder's ameeican cookeey. 



PUEPLE ALKEKENGI. 



No. 1496. — The fruit is roundish and of a deep purple color, 
Toeing more acidulous, less perfumed, aud not as palatable. In its 
raw state it is a superior variety for preserving. 



SCAELET ALKEKENGI. 



No. 1497.— The fruit is of a brilliant scarlet color at maturity. 
The plant is highly ornamental. The Fall and Common Yellow 
Alkekengi are similar to it, except in color. 



ArticIvE; CCVII 



FrcEcl. SWEET POTATOES. German 

JPatate. B itaten. 

No. 1498. — The Sweet Potato is a native of the East and West 
-Indies, where it grows natural as a perennial plant, but when culti- 
vated it is always treated as an annual. They thrive well in the 
Southern States, but those grown in the North are much inferior, as 
the plants seldom blossom and the tubers never ripen perfectly. 
Though numerous varieties are cultivated, none can compare with 
ihose grown in the South. 

cultuee. 

No. 1499. — The Sweet Potato is cultivated much in the same 
manner as our common potato, and succeeds best in light warm soil, 
which should be deeply stirred and well enriched. The slips or 
sprouts are planted twelve inches apart in ridges that are four feet 
v^ide. Give the plants ordinary culture in the summer, and early 
in October the tubers will have attained their growth and will be 
ready for harvesting. The slips or sprouts are generally obtained 
by setting the tubers in a hot-bed in March and breaking oif the 
sprouts from them when they are five inches high. For transplant- 
ing in a favorable season the plucking may be repeated about four 
times. In setting out the slips the lower part should be sunk one- 
half of their depth, and when dry weather occurs water should be 
applied moderately. Dryness and a warm and even temperature are 
essential for the preservation of Sweet Potatoes, for if these condi- 
tions are not supplied the tubers will decay rapidly. They may be 
preserved until spring by packing them in dry sand and storing 
them in a warm dry room. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 347 

NANSEMOND. 

So. 1500. — This is an early variety tliat matures in short seasons. 
It is very productive and succeeds well in almost any tillable soil. 
It does particularly well in the Northern States. The tubers are 
large, yellow, dry, unctuous, sweet, and well flavored. 

LARGE WHITE. 

No. 1501. — This variety requires a long season for its full devel- 
opment, and will succeed well in the Middle States. The tubers 
are large, the skin of a dusky white color, and the flesh is nearly 
white, with a shade of yellow, being farinaceous and well flavored, 
but not finely grained. 

KENTUCKY EARLY RED. 

No. 1502. — The tubers are of medium size, with a red or purplish- 
red skin, the flesh being yellow, dry, sweet and of good quality. 

PURPLE SKINNED. 

No. 1503. — The skin is smooth and of a reddish-purple color, and 
the flesh is finely grained, sugary and of excellent quality. This 
variety is early and does not keep well. 

AMERICAN RED. 

No. 1504. — The tubers are long, slender, and of a purplish-red 
color. The flesh is yellow, finely grained, unctuous, sugary and 
farinaceous. It is hardy, and an abundant bearer, but does not 
keep well. 

EOSE-COLORED. 

No. 1505. — This variety is hardy, j)i'0(3.uctive, and keeps well. 
The tubers are large, egg-shaped, and often grooved or furrowed. 
The skin is of a rose color, shaded with yellow, while the flesh is 
sweet, and has a pleasant nut-like flavor. 

YELLOW SKINNED, OR YELLOW CAROLINA. 

No. 1506.— This is a favorite variety in North and South Caro- 
lina. The tubers are from six .to ten inches long, smooth, and of a 
yellowish color. The flesh is yellow, finely grained, and very 
sugary. . 



348 Hardee's American cookery. 



BAKED SWEET POTATOES. 

No. 1507. — Wash the Potatoes in cold water, and dry them. Then 
put them in the oven, turning them occasionally to have them 
cooked evenly, and, when done, serve them on a napkin. 

Note. — In the Southern States they are served in cups that are similar to egg cups. Cut off the 
top end, scoop out a teaspoouful of the Potato, and put in its place a piece of fresh butter. 

BOILED SWEET POTATOES. 

No. 1508. — Sweet Potatoes are boiled or steamed in the same 
manner as common potatoes. When cold they are peeled, sliced 
and fried in butter. 

FRIED SWEET POTATOES. 

No. 1509. — When raw, the Sweet Potatoes are fried in the same 
manner as common potatoes. When they have been boiled, the 
large Potatoes should be sliced lengthwise, and the small ones left 
entire, before being fried. 

FRIED SWEET POTATOES, PUFFED (SOUFFLe). 

No. 1510. — Peel some medium-sized Sweet Potatoes, and slice 
them lengthwise in pieces one-quarter of an inch thick. Fry them 
in lard that is not too hot, and when soft, drain them. Then let the 
lard get hot again, after which throw the Potatoes in, turning them 
with the skimmer for a few minutes. When they get puffed and 
browned, drain them on a napkin. Season with salt and pepper, 
and serve them on a napkin. 

SWEET POTATO FRITTERS. 

No. 1511. — Peel half a dozen boiled Sweet Potatoes, cut off both 
ends, and then slice them in pieces half an inch thick and one inch 
wdde. Put them in an earthen bowl, moisten them with a wine- 
glassful of brandy, add the peeling of one lemon, and allow them 
to macerate for half an hour. Then drain them, dip them in 
a batter, fry them in hot lard until nicely browned, and drain them. 
Serve them on a napkin and sprinkle powdered sugar over them. 

CREAM OF SWEET POTATOES, FOR PIES. 

No. 1512. — Boil or steam one dozen Sweet Potatoes. When they 
are three-quarters done, put them on a pan in the oven to bake. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 349 

"When they are cooked, peel them and ponnd them through 
a colander. Then add two eggs and the yolks of four raw eggs, 
six ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, and half a pound of 
macaroons ground into crumbs. Flavor it with lemon flavor, or one 
wine-glassful of rum, and sweeten with sugar. Then mix the whole 
well together. 

CAEOLINA CAKE, WITH SABAYON SAUCE. 

No. 1513. — Prepare two dozen Sweet Potatoes as in No. 1612, and 
pound them through a fine colander. Have a cream ready made of 
three pints of milk with one pound of corn-starch. Add it to the 
Potatoes, mix them well together and, when cold, add half a pound 
of citron cut in small square pieces, half a pound of stoned raisins, 
one-quarter of a pound of currants, and half a pint of rum. While 
mixing them well together, add in slowly four raw eggs and the 
yolks of one dozen raw eggs, and sweeten it to taste. Now prepare 
some small pudding moulds, butter and flour them and fill them 
with the above preparation. Put the moulds in a pan containing 
an inch of water, and set in a moderate oven to bake. Serve them 
w^ith Sabayon sauce. 

Note. — A sqiiare pan with an inch border may be used instead of the moulds. Butter a paper on 
both sides, place it in the bottom of the pan and also butter the sides of the pan. Then flour it and 
put in the preparation, cooking it the same as above. When ready for use turn it out on a board, 
cut in pieces and serve with a Saboyan sauce. When the Cake is cold, it can be cut in pieces three 
inches long and half an inch thick, which should be dipped in beaten eggs, then rolled in bread 
crumbs and shaped nicely. Then fry them in hot lard and serve them as croquettes. 

CAEOLINA FEITTERS, NELLIE GEANT STYLE. 

No. 1514. — Prepare the Potatoes as in No. 1513, and bake the 
cake in a square pan. When it is cold, cut it in round pieces with 
a round cutter about the size of half a dollar. Then dip them in a 
batter considerably thinner than you would use for queen frit- 
ters, and made of the same ingredients. Serve them with a Madeira 
wine or Hard sauce. 

SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 

No. 1515. — steam half a dozen medium sized Sweet Potatoes, and 
when they are cooked peel them and pound them through a fine 
colander. Add four ounces of butter, sweeten with sugar to taste, 
flavor with lemon flavor, and add the yolks of six raw eggs. Mix 
them well together, and then add half a pound of mixed fruit cut in 
small pieces and cooked in a syrup. AVhen the mixture is cold, 
add the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth, and mix it gently. 
Then put the mixture in small pudding moulds, which have been 



350 HAEDEE'S AMERICAN COOKEEru 

buttered and floured, and steam them, or bake them, as you would 
Carolina cake in No. 1513. 

SWEET POTATOES, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1516. — Boil one dozen Sweet Potatoes and, when they are 
cold, peel them and then cut them in slices one-quarter of an inch 
thick. Put some clarified butter in a frying pan and, when it is 
warm, add a layer of potatoes and fry them on both sides. Then 
drain them and serve them on a napkin. 



Article CCVIII. 



SWISS CHARD, OR SEA KALE BEET. 

French Cieriium 

Garde Foiree. Yunge Mangoldpflanze. 

No. 1517. — The Swiss Chard, Silver or Sea Kale Beet, is a 
distinct vegetable, and is much superior to the common beet for 
greens. If sown at the same time, it will be fit to use before them. 
Later, the plants form broad, flat, beautiful white wax-like stems 
to the leaves, which are very delicious. For preparation, see Sea 
Kale, Nos. 1398, 1399, 1400 and 1401. 



ARTICLE) CCIX. 



TANSY. 
Tanaisie. Wurmkraut. 

No. 1518. — Tansy is a hardy, herbaceous, perennial plant. The 
stem is about three feet high. The leaves are finely toothed and 
divided on the margin, and of a rich, deep green color. When it 
is cultivated for its leaves, the flowering shoots should be cut off as 
the}^ make their appearance. The leaves have a strong aromatic 
odor and a bitter taste. It possesses the tonic and stomachic 
properties common to bitter herbs, but is seldom used for culinary 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 35L 

purposes. There are three varieties. The curled leaved Tansy 
differs from the common variety in its curled or frilled leaves. The 
large leaved variety is less fragrant, and the variegated-leaved 
variety has a peculiar color. Tansy is propagated by dividing the 
roots, as the variegated character of the foliage is not produced 
from seeds. 



ArTICIvK- CCX. 



French TAPIOCA, OR MANIOCA. Ccrmau 

■J^apioca, or Manioca. Tapioca. 

No. 1519. — Tapioca is a coarsely granular substance obtained by 
heating, and thus partly changing the moistened starch obtained 
from the roots of the Janipha manihot, a plant which is a native of 
Brazil. There are two chief varieties, and about thirty sub-varieties. 
The root of the sweet cassavas may be eaten with impunity; that of 
the bitter, which is the most extensively cultivated, abounds in an 
acrid, milky juice, which renders it highlj^ poisonous if eaten in the 
recent state. The root is prepared for use by washing, scraping 
and grating or grinding it into a pulp, which, in the bitter variety, 
is submitted to pressure so as to separate the deleterious juice. 
It is now in the state of meal or powder, which is made into bread, 
cakes or puddings. As the poisonous principle is volatile, the por- 
tion which may have remained in the meal is entirely dissipated by 
the heat employed in cooking. Being nutritious, and at the same 
time easy of digestion, and destitute of irritating properties. Tapi- 
oca forms an excellent diet for the sick and convalescent. It is pre- 
pared for use by boiling it in water, and is used, like sago, in sou^is 
and puddings. A factitious Tapioca, known as Pearl Tapioca, is 
made from potato starch, and is sometimes sold as the genuine 
article. 

Note.— Tbe Tapioca obtained from grocers in the United States, is in the form of hard, white, 
irregiilar, rough grains. That which is sold under the name of Manioca, is smaller and iiner, being 
preferred to the large Tapioca. 

TAPIOCA SOUP, WITH BROTH OR CONSOMME. 

No. 1520. — Put four quarts of consomme or broth in a saucepan, 
and when it boils, drop in it eight ounces of Tapioca or Manioca 
slowly while stirring it. Let it boil up once, and then set it on the 
side of the fire to boil slowly until cooked. Then skim it and serve. 



352 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY 



ArtticIvB CCXI 



French TARRAGON. Cerman 

Usiragon. Dragun. 

No. 1521.- — Tarragon is a liardy perennial plant, originally from 
Siberia. It is cultivated for its young shoots and leaves, the latter 
being long-pointed, smooth and aromatic. Both are used as ingre- 
dients in salads, pickles, soups, etc. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1522. — Tarragon is propagated annually by dividing the 
roots. Select a warm, dry situation in April, and set the shoots in 
rows, fifteen inches apart, and cover them with three inches of soil. 
It is sometimes improved by cutting, when they are set three inches 
apart in moist earth. When not allowed to run to flower, the 
plants will be more healthy, and of finer quality, and will yield 
more abundantly. 

TARRAGON VINEGAR, PLAIN. 

No. 1523. — This is made by an infusion of the leaves in wine 
vinegar, and is greatly esteemed with salads. 

TARRAGON VINEGAR, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1524. — Put in a demijohn two gallons of wine vinegar, four 
green bell-peppers cut in quarters, and one dozen shallots. Cork 
it tightly and set it in the cellar for four weeks. Then strain it 
through a flannel, put it in bottles, cork them tightly, and keep 
them in a cool place. 



Article CCXII 



TEA. 

The. Thee. 

No. 1525. — The Tea plant is a Dative of China and Japan, being 
cultivated extensively in both countries. In Japan it forms hedge- 
rows around the rice and cornfields; in China, whence immense 
quantities of Tea are exported, whole fields are devoted to its 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 353 

culture. It is propagated from seeds, and in three years the plant 
yields leaves for collection, and in six years attains a height of five 
or six feet. After the leaves are gathered they are dried by artifi- 
cial heat, and while hot are rolled in the palms of the hands, so as 
to be brought into the form in which they are found in commerce. 
The odor of the Tea leaves themselves is very slight, and it is 
customary to mix with them the flowers of certain aromatic plants, 
as those of the orange, jasmine, rose, etc., in order to render 
them pleasant to the smell. The flowers are afterwards separated 
by sifting. There "are two principal varieties ^ — the green and the 
black — which differ considerably in flavor and strength. By chem- 
ical tests it has been ascertained that green Tea is colored by sul- 
phate of calcium and Prussian blue. Tea is astringent and gently 
excitant, and in its finer varieties exerts a decided influence over 
the nervous system, producing exhilaration and wakefulness. When 
taken moderately it is perfectly harmless, but in large quantities it 
produces nervousness, dyspepsia, and excites the brain and stom- 
ach. Green Tea is more injurious than black Tea, and should not 
be used by those who are dyspeptic. 

TO MAKE TEA. 

No. 1626. — Tea is made in several different ways. 

The Chinese, who are supposed to know something about it, put 
a few Tea leaves in a cup, then pour boiling water over the leaves, 
and let them steep for a few minutes, having placed a saucer over 
the cup to keep the essence from evaporating. The liquid is then 
strained into another cup, previously warmed with hot water, and 
is ready for use. They use neither milk nor sugar, claiming that 
they injure the delicate aroma of the Tea, which is true. 

The general method of making Tea in America is as follows: 
Use an earthen tea-pot in preference to one of metal. Scald th& 
pot well; then put in the quantity of Tea desired, set the pot on 
the stove, pour over the Tea sufficient boiling water to cover it, and 
let it stand ten minutes to draw. Keep the cover on the pot, and 
do not let the Tea boil. Then pour in as much boiling water as 
is desired, and the Tea is ready for use. Do not pour water over 
Tea unless it is boiling hot, as unboiled water will not extract the 
flavor from the Tea leaves, and will spoil the Tea. Never let Tea. 
boil after it is made. Use the tea-pot only for making Tea. Use 
cold cream in Tea. 

TEA, EUSSIAN STYLE. 

No. 1527. — An agreeable beverage is made as follows: Peel some 
fresh, juicy lemons, and slice them in thin pieces. Put one piece 
23 



354 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

in the bottom of each cup, sprinkle it with white sugar, and then 
pour in the hot Tea. Sometimes the lemon peel is not removed, 
which imparts a slightly bitter taste to the Tea. * 

ICED TEA. 

No. 1528. — A delicious cold beverage for summer is made by 
making some mixed Tea (black and green), putting it in bottles, and 
setting them on the ice to cool. When ready to serve, pour the 
Tea in goblets, that contain some cracked ice, and sweeten it with 
sugar. A little champagne or rum may be added to each glass, if 
desired, but never add milk. 

AFTER-DINNER TEA. 

No. 1529. — Tea may be served after dinner the same as coffee. 
Serve with some double cream or brandy or rum, whichever may 
be desired. Sandwiches or small cakes usually accompany it. 

TEA FOR INVALIDS. 

No. 1530. — Put the yolk of one raw egg and a teaspoonful of sugar 
in a bowl and mix them well together. Dilute it with four soup- 
spoonfuls of cold milk, then add a cup of hot Tea slowly while stir- 
ring it briskly. Serve immediately. 

TEA CUSTARD, IN CUPS. 

No. 1531. — Make a cupful of the best strong Tea and set it aside 
iio cool. Then put the yolks of twelve raw eggs in a saucepan and 
add half a pound of powdered sugar. Mix them well together with 
a wooden spoon and then dilute it with the cold Tea. Add in slowly 
-one quart of cooled boiled milk, stirring it gently. Then strain the 
mixture through a fine sieve and put it in custard cups. Set the 
cups in a flat saucepan containing hot water, which must reach up to 
the middle of the cups. Put the pan in a moderate oven, and as 
soon as the custard becomes firm take it out. Cover it if desired, 
while cooking. Do not let the water boil, or the custard will be full 
of little holes, instead of being solid throughout. 

Note.— Coffee custard may be made in the same way by using a cupful of strong, black coffee, 
instead of Tea. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 355 



ArticIvK ccxiii 



Freiich THYME. German 

Thym. Thymian. 

No. 1532. — There are two species of Thyme cultivated for culin- 
■ary purposes : the Common Garden, and the Lemon or Evergreen 
Thyme, botli of which are hardy perennial plants, having a shrubby 
character and a comparatively long growth. The leaves have an 
agreeable, aromatic taste, and are used for flavoring soups, stuffings 
and sauces. They should be used with moderation, as too much 
imparts a bitter taste to the substance. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1533. — They are propagated from seeds, or by dividing the 
roots; but the finest plants are produced from seeds. Sow them in 
April, in shallow drills twelve inches apart. They should be thinned 
out to eight inches apart, and all weeds should be carefully removed. 
They maybe cut for use as soon as they have made sufficient growth; 
but for drying, the stalks are gathered as they come into flower. 

BROAD-LEAVED THYME. 

No. 1534. — This is the favorite variety. The stem is shrubby, of a 
brownish color, and much branched. The leaves are small, green 
above and whitish beneath. 

NAEROW-LEAVED THYME. 

No. 1535. — The leaves are long, narrow and sharply pointed. 

LEMON THYME. 

No. 1536. — This is a low green shrub, with a somewhat trailing 
stem. It is distinguished from the other varieties by the soft, 
pleasant, lemon-like odor of the young shoots and leaves. 



ArticIvK ccxiv. 



TOMATO. 

Tomate. Liebesapfel. 

No. 1537. — The Tomato is a half-hardy annual plant, originally 
from South America. It is very extensively used in the United 



356 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

States, being served on the table the entire year in different forms^ 
and is one of the most healthful and best of all garden vegetables. 
The plant, when full grown, is about eight feet high, with a branch- 
ing irregular recumbent stem and dense foliage. The fruit is red, 
white or yellow, and is exceedingly variable in size as well as form. 
The varieties are numerous, few of them appearing to be distinct or 
permanent. Much depends on the cultivation and the temperature 
of the soil. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1538. — The Tomato is raised from seed and succeeds best in. 
light warm and not over rich soil. Success depends on securing a. 
rapid, vigorous, unchecked growth during the early part of the sea- 
son. Sow it in hot beds during March, or from six to eight weeks 
before they can be set out of doors. When the plants have four 
leaves transplant them into shallow boxes, setting them five inches 
apart. Give them plenty of air and endeavor to secure a vigorous 
but steady and healthful growth, so that, at the time of setting them 
in the open ground, they will be strong and stocky and about as. 
broad as they are high, A slight check, while the plants are young, 
will materially diminish their productiveness. Set them out of 
doors as soon as danger from severe frost is over, but before doing- 
so harden off the plants by gradually exposing them to the night 
air and by the withdrawal of water until the wood becomes hard 
and the leaves thick and of a dark green color. Transplant them 
carefully and cultivate well as long as the vines will permit. The 
fruit is improved in quality if the vines are tied to a trellis or to 
stakes. Sufficient plants for the garden of a small family may be 
started with little trouble by sowing a few seeds about the middle 
of March in a garden box or large flower pot and placing it in a 
sunny window of the kitchen. Transplant them in the open ground 
as soon as the weather will permit and the plant is strong enough. 

To have an extra large and beautiful Tomato, as soon as a cluster 
of flowers is visible top the stems down to the cluster, so that the 
flowers terminate the stem. The efl^ect is that the sap is immedi- 
ately impelled into the two buds next below the cluster, which soon 
push strongly and produce another cluster of flowers each. When 
these are visible the branch on which they belong is also topped 
down to their level, and this is done five times successively. By 
this means the plants become stout dwarf bushes about eighteen 
inches high. In order to prevent their falling over, sticks or strings 
are stretched horizontally along the rows so as to keep the plants, 
erect. In addition to this all laterals whatsoever are nipped off. 
In this way the ripe sap is directed into the fruit, which acquires a 
beauty, size and excellence that is unattainable by other means. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 357 

THE CARDINAL. 

No. 1539, — In color it is remarkable, coloring right up to the 
-calyx; and every specimen is of one color, and that is the most 
brilliant cardinal red, very glossy, and looking, when ripe, almost 
as if varnished. The flesh appears to have the same brilliant color, 
being but very little lighter in shade. They make the handsomest 
sliced Tomato, and have no green core. Its type is perfect, being 
uniformly smooth and free from any ridges. It is as early as any 
good Tomato, and is much larger in size than the average. It is 
exceedingly solid and firm, and of a vigorous growth, and compara- 
tively compact in habit, with strong stalks, which bear abundantly 
throughout the season. 

LIVINGSTON FAVOEITE. 

No. IStiO. — One of the largest and most perfect shaped varieties 
in cultivation. It ripens evenly and early, and keeps its size to the 
end of the season. It is very prolific, with but few seeds and has 
solid flesh. 

MAYFLOWER. 

No. 1541. — This is one of the earliest large Tomatoes grown. Its 
shape is perfectly globular, slightly flattened and smooth, of a 
flossy red color, and ripens evenly and well, close up to the stem. 

PERFECTION. 

No. 1542. — It is as early as the Canadian Victor; is almost round 
in shape, perfectly smooth, very firm, and of the best quality, bear- 
ing all through the season until frost. It ripens all over at the 
same time, and is blood-red in color. 

ACME. 

No. 1543. — This is one of the earliest and handsomest varieties. 
The fruit is of medium size, perfectly smooth and regular in shape, 
very firm, and a great bearer. Its color is quite distinct, being crim- 
son with a pinkish tinge. 

PARAGON. 

No. 1544. — Same as the Acme in all respects, with the exception 
that the color is of a bright, glossy crimson, entirely free from the 
pinkish tinge. • 



358 HAKDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

THE TROPHY. 

No. 1545. — This, when weH" grown is, without doubt, one of the 
best Tomatoes in cultivatioij. It is unsurpassed for flavor, pro- 
ductiveness and every other desired quality. 

CHAMPION CLUSTER. 

No. 1546. — A distinct and valuable variety, growing in clusters,, 
from ten to twenty large sized, smooth and well shaped Tomatoes, 
on one bunch. They are very smooth, and free from inequalities. 
The color is a rich dark crimson, and the flesh is very solid. 

APPLE-SHAPED. 

No. 1547. — The fruit is somewhat flattened, inclining towards a 
globular shape, deepened about the stem, but smooth and regular 
in its general outline. The skin is of a deep rich crimson color, 
and the flesh a bright rose color; the rind being thick and hard, 
and not readily reduced to a pulp when cooked. It is early and 
hardy, keeps well, and for salad is much esteemed. 

THE CONQUEROR. 

No. 1548. — One of the earliest varieties, with fruit of a good size- 
and very uniform in shape. 

BERMUDA. 

No. 1549. — Extensively grown in the Southern States, and is of 
little value or merit when grown in the North. Its color is rose-red, 
and it varies considerable in size. 

EEJEE. 

No. 1550. — The fruit is either a bright red or pinkish color, very 
firm, well flavored, and is a good late Tomato. 

ARLINGTON. 

No. 1551. — This is one of the earliest varieties. The fruit is of 
a good size, and is very uniform in shape. 

GENERAL GRANT. 

No. 1552. — This is of a superior quality. The fruit is large and. 
ripens rapidly and thoroughly. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. ' 359 

Fia, OE RED PEAR. 

No. 1553. — A small red pear-shaped species. The flesh is either 
pale-red or pink, and very firm. It is very little used except for 
preserving and for making Tomato figs. 

YELLOW PLUM. 

No. 1554. — A beautiful variety, used principally for pickling. 

RED CHERRY. 

No. 1555. — A small early variety of the size and shape of a cherry, 
and is used for pickling. 

STRAWBERRY, OR WINTER CHERRY. 

No. 1556. — The fruit has a pleasant strawberry-like flavor, and is 
much esteemed. 

GREEN GAGE. 

No. 1557. — Resembles a yellow plum in shape and color, and is 
excellent for preserving. 

YELLOW CHERRY TOMATO. 

No. 1558. — This is a yellow variety of the Red Cherry Tomato, 
differing only in color. 

YELLOW PEAR, OR FIG SHAPED. 

No. 1559. — A sub-variety of the red pear-shaped Tomato, with a 
clear, semi-transparent yellow skin and yellow flesh. It is used for 
pickling and preserving. 

QUEEN. 

No, 1560. — A variety speedily grown for canning. The fruit 
somewhat resembles the Trophy in appearance. 

CANADA VICTOR. 

No. 1561. — This is one of the earliest, of a medium size, and is 
very symmetrical in shape. 



360 ■ haedee's ameeican cookeey. 



HATHAWAY S EXCELSIOE. 



No. 1562. — This is an early Tomato, medium sized, smooth, firm, 
and of excellent quality. 



GOLDEN TEOPHY. 



No. 1563. — Identical in form and size with the TrojDhy, but its 
color is a beautiful canary -yellow, being sometimes streaked lightly 
with red. It is well suited for preserving, as well as for table use. 



ISLAND BEAUTY. 

No. 1564. — The fruit is large and medium early, resembling the 
Trophy in appearance, and is produced in clusters of about ten 
finely formed Tomatoes in a bunch. It is deep crimson in color, 
and of the best quality. 

TOMATOES FOE EELISH. 

No. 1565. — Select ripe and firm Tomatoes of equal size, wipe 
them clean and slice them an eighth of an inch thick. Serve them 
on relish dishes the same as cucumbers, with some finely sliced 
green onions around the edge of the dish. Or dip them into boil- 
ing water for one minute, then peel and slice them, sprinkle them 
with salt, and serve them plain or mixed witli cucumbers, with some 
finely sliced green peppers on each end of the dish. Serve with 
them a mustard and oil sauce, into which add some finely chopped 
chives and parsley. 

TOMATO SALAD, PLAIN. 

No. 1566.— Peel and slice the Tomatoes as in No. 1565. Season 
them with salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar, and garnish with 
finely sliced celery. 

Note. — Raw Tomatoes may be used to garnish green salads. 

TOMATO SALAD WITH CUCUMBEES. 

No. 1567. — Peel and slice the Tomatoes as in No. 1565, and season 
them with salt and pepper. Then slice the same quantity of cucum- 
bers, sprinkle them with salt and set them aside for twenty minutes. 
Then press out the water, and put them in a salad bowl with the 
Tomatoes. Add a little finely chopped parsley, a little oil and 
yinegar, and mix the whole well together without breaking the 
Tomatoes. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 361 

The Tomatoes can be put in a salad bowl with the cucnmbers, 
and a light Mayonnaise sauce poured over them, with a little mus- 
tard and cream added to the sauce. Garnish with the hearts of 
lettuce. 

TOMATO SALAD, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1568. — Prepare the Tomatoes as in No. 1567, add some sliced 
green peppers, and season highly. 

TOMATO SALAD, GEEMAN STYLE. 

No. 1569. — Prepare the Tomatoes as in No. 1567, add some sliced 
green onions and a little anise seed. 

TOMATO SALAD, HESKETH STYLE. 

No. 1570. — Peel the Tomatoes and slice them a quarter of an inch 
thick. Put a layer of them in a plate or dish and season them with 
salt and pepper. Then on these put another layer and season as 
before. Set them in a cool place for half an "hour before using, in 
s, slanting position, and, with a spoon, gather up the juice occasion- 
ally and pour it over the Tomatoes. When ready, dress them 
<3arefully in a salad bowl, with some finely chopped parsley over 
them. Mash the yolk of a hard boiled ei:g, and dilute it with oil, 
vinegar and cream. Season it with salt and pepper and pour this 
dressing over the Tomatoes when serving them. 

FEIED TOMATOES. 

No. 1571. — Slice the Tomatoes half an inch thick and season 
them with salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with flour, and fry 
them in clarified butter. Serve them with fried parsley to garnish. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

No. 1572. — Pour boiling water over the Tomatoes and peel them. 
Then cut them in quarters, put then^ in a saucepan, set it on the 
fire, and when they are cooked pound them through a colander into 
a saucepan, and set them on the fire again. When they boil add 
some fresh bread crumbs to thicken them, and season with salt, 
pepper, and a little sugar. Let them simmer for twenty minutes, 
and before serving add a piece of butter. 



362 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

BAKED STEWED TOMATOES. 

No. 1573. — Prepare them as in No. 1572, and put tliem in a but- 
tered baking dish. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the tops, add a 
piece of butter, and bake them in a slow oven. 

HOW TO PREPARE TOMATOES FOR STUFFING. 

No. 1574. — Take Tomatoes of even size that are not too ripe. 
Slice off the end of the Tomato that adheres to the stalk, scoop out 
the centre without breaking the sides and set them in a pan upside 
down, so as to drain off all of the moisture. Save the parts scooped 
out and chop them finely, adding some finely chopped peeled 
Tomatoes with them, if necessary, and also to the stuffing intended 
for the Tomatoes. 

STUFFED TOMATOES, PROVINCIAL STYLE. 

No. 1575. — Prepare two dozen Tomatoes as in No. 1574. Chop 
half a dozen shallots finely and pat them in a saucepan with a piece 
of butter or a little sweet oil, and fry them lightly. Then add half 
a pound of finely chopped mushrooms and the finely chopped 
Tomatoes. Let them cook until the moisture is almost reduced. 
Then add a handful of fresh bread crumbs, a little finely chopped 
parsley and cooked ham, and season with salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg. Mix the whole well together, stirring it with a wooden 
spoon for five minutes. Then add the yolks of three raw eggs, 
and set it aside to get cold. Stuff the Tomatoes with this prepara- 
tion and sprinkle fresh bread crumbs over them. Put a few drops 
of sweet oil on each one, arrange th<3m in a pan and put them in the 
oven to bake. Serve them with a brown Italian sauce. 

STUFFED TOMATOES, MACKAY STYLE. 

No. 1576. — Prepare two dozen Tomatoes as in No. 1574. Then chop 
a quarter of a pound of lean pork, a quarter of a pound of veal, and 
six ounces of marrow finely, and season with salt, pepper and nut- 
meg, adding a little finely chopped parsley, chives, garlic and tarragon. 
Mix the whole well together and stuff the Tomatoes with it. Arrange 
them in -a buttered flat saucepan with a thin slice of fat pork over 
each one and bake them in an oven. Before serving press the juice 
of a lemon over them and serve them with a half glaze or a plain 
reduced puree of Tomatoes. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 363 

STUFFED TOMATOES, TURKISH STYLE. 

No. 1577. — Prepare two dozen Tomatoes as in No. 1574. Cook a 
quarter of a pound of rice in chicken brotli dry. Chop an onion 
finely and fry it lightly in butter. Then add the chopped Tomatoes, 
and when the moisture is reduced, add two spoonfuls of Tomato 
sauce and the rice. Season with salt and pepper and add a littlo 
finely chopped chives or parsley. Mix the whole well together and 
stuff the Tomatoes with it. Sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs 
over them, put a piece of butter on each and arrange them in a but- 
tered baking pan. Then bake them in an oven and serve Tomata 
sauce with them. 

STUFFED TOMATOES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1578. — Prepare two dozen Tomatoes as in No. 1574. Chop two- 
white onions finely and put them in a saucepan with a piece of but- 
ter. Fry them lightly and add four finely chopped Tomatoes and 
the flesh that was scooped out of the Tomatoes to be stuffed. 
When the moisture is nearly reduced, add a handful of finely 
chopped fresh mushrooms. Cover the saucepan, and when the 
moisture is reduced, add two handfuls of fresh bread crumbs and 
season with salt and pepper. Stir it over the fire for ten minutes 
and add the yolks of four raw eggs and a little finely chopped pars- 
ley'. When it is well mixed put it on a plate and cover it with a 
buttered paper. When this preparation is cold, stuff the Tomatoes 
with it, sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs over them, put a piece 
of butter on each, and arrange them in a buttered baking pan. 
Then bake them in a moderate oven and serve them with a Tomato 
sauce. 

STUFFED TOMATOES, CARDINAL STYLE. 

No. 1579. — Prepare two dozen Tomatoes as in No. 1574. Chop 
half a dozen shallots finely and put them in a saucepan with four 
ounces of butter. Cover the saucepan and let them cook on a slow 
fire (not letting them get browned). Then add the finely chopped 
Tomatoes and two handfuls of finely chopped fresh mushrooms. 
When the moisture is reduced, add six spoonfuls of reduced Alle- 
mande sauce and a handful of fresh bread crumbs and season with 
salt and pepper. When it is w^ell mixed add the yolks of three raw 
eggs. Stuff the Tomatoes with this preparation, sprinkle them with 
fresh bread crumbs, arrange them in a flat saucepan and put a few 
drops of sweet oil on each. Bake them in a quick oven. When 
they are browned dish them up, put a few drops of glaze on each 
and serve wdth a puree of^Tomatoes around the dish. 



364 HAKDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 



BAKED TOMATOES. 



No. 1580.— Cut tlie ends off of half a dozen Tomatoes, and slice 
them in halves. Season with salt and pepper. Put two spoonfuls 
of clarified butter in a frying pan and, when it is warm, add the 
Tomatoes, and fry them lightly on both sides. Sprinkle them with 
fresh bread crumbs and a little finely chopped parsley. Then 
arrange them in a baking dish, sprinkle bread crumbs and parsley 
over them, put a piece of butter on top of each, and bake them in 
the oven. 

Note.— Finely chopped garlic or shallots may be added with the parsley, if desired. 
TOMATOES FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1581. — Any of the different varieties of stuffed Tomatoes may 
be nsed as a garniture for large entrees or releves; and, when alter- 
nated with green peppers, artichokes, mushrooms or caulifiower, 
make a very pretty effect — caused by the different colors of the 
vegetables. 

PLAIN TOMATO SAUCE. 

No. 1582. — Select four dozen nice ripe Tomatoes, cut them in 
quarters, and put them in a saucepan with a small faggot of parsley 
.garnished with two green onions, one leek, one bay leaf, a few 
cloves and some pepper-corns. Cover the saucepan, and cook them 
•on a brisk fire until the Tomatoes are thoroughly done. Then take 
out the faggot, and rub the Tomatoes through a fine sieve. Put the 
puree in a fiat saucepan, reduce it on a brisk fire to the proper con- 
sistency, season with salt and pepper, and before serving, add a 
piece of butter. This sauce is much admired for its beautiful red 
color and fine flavor when served with broiled meats. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 

No. 1583. — Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, to which add 
two sliced onions, two carrots, and half a pound of lean raw ham. 
JPry them until nicely browned; then add four dozen ripe Tomatoes 
(which have been washed and cut in quarters), a faggot of parsley 
garnished with a sprig of thyme, a few grains of pepper, and two 
bay leaves, and season with salt. Cover the saucepan and let them 
cook slowly. When done, thicken them with flour diluted with 
cold broth to the proper consistency. Stir well with a wooden 
spoon until it boils; letting it cook slowly for half an hour, after 
which take out the ham and faggot, and rub it through a fine sieve. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 365 

PUREE OF TOMATOES. 

No. 1584. — Prepare the Tomatoes as in No. 15S3, but instead of 
thickening with flour, add a loaf of square bread (after removing 
the crust), cut in slices, and let it cook with the Tomatoes for 
twenty-five minutes. Then rub the puree through a fine sieve and 
put it in a flat saucepan. Reduce it on a brisk fire to its proper 
consistency while stirring it with a wooden spoon, after which add 
a piece of butter and a pinch of sugar. 

SOUP — PUREE OP TOMATOES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1585. — Prepare the Tomatoes as in No. 1583, and when they 
are strained add one quart of good broth, a piece of butter and a 
pinch of sugar. Serve with fried bread crumbs. 

SOUP — PUREE OP TOMATOES, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1586. — Wash and trim three dozen Tomatoes and cut them 
in quarters. Put in a saucepan a piece of butter, two finely sliced 
carrots, two finely sliced onions and some trimmings of lean ham. 
Fry them lightly. Then add four spoonfuls of flour, stirring it with 
a wooden spoon while it is cooking until it is nicely browned. Then 
add the Tomatoes, two quarts of broth, a faggot of parsley garnished 
with one celery, one leek, a sprig of thyme, two bay leaves, and a 
few grains of pepper, and season with salt and a pinch of red pep- 
per. Keep stirring until it boils, then set it on the side of the fire 
to cook slowly for three quarters of an hour. Then take out the 
faggot, strain the puree through a fine sieve, and put it back in the 
saucepan to keep it warm. Before serving add a pinch of sugar 
and four ounces of butter. Stir it well until the butter is melted 
and serve with fried bread crumbs. 

Note.— This may also be used as a sauce. 

TOMATO SOUP, WITH RICE. 

No. 1587. — Prepare the Tomatoes as in Nos. 1583 or 1586. Boil 
four ounces of rice in broth and have it dry when it is boiled. 
Serve it with the Tomatoes in a soup tureen. 

TOMATO SOUP, FLORIDA STYLE. 

No. 1588. — Prepare one gallon of Tomato soup as in Nos. 1583 or 
1586. Boil one-quarter of a pound of sago in some white broth, 
and when it is cooked put it in the soup. Let it boil for a few 
minutes and then serve. 



366 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

TOMATO CATSUP, NO. 1. 

No. 1589. — Cut four dozen ripe Tomatoes in quarters and put 
them in a saucepan to cook. When they are thoroughly cooked 
rub them through a fine sieve. Then put the puree in a saucepan 
with one pint of wine vinegar, one ounce of ground cloves, allspice, 
cinnamon and ground pepper, and a little salt, and reduce it to its 
proper consistency. When it is cold put it in bottles, cork them 
tightly, and then boil them in a hot water bath for half an hour. 

TOMATO CATSUP, NO. 2. 

No. 1590. — Cut six dozen ripe Tomatoes in quarters, put them in 
a saucepan and, when they are thoroughly cooked, rub them through 
a fine sieve. Put them back in the saucepan and add one ounce of 
mustard flour, a teaspoonful of ground mace, one of cloves, one of 
black pepper, a little salt, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, and one ounce 
of celery seed tied up in a bag. Let it boil slowly until reduced to 
one-third of its original quantity. Then add one pint of wine vin- 
egar and pour it into an earthen jar. When cold take out the cel- 
ery seed, bottle the catsup, cork them tightly, and boil them in a 
hot water bath for twenty minutes. 

TOMATO CATSUP, NO. 3. 

No. 1591. — Peel six dozen nice ripe Tomatoes, cut them in quar- 
ters, put them in a saucepan and add four finely sliced onions, six 
sliced bell peppers, two ounces of brown sugar, an ounce of cinna- 
mon, a little ginger, salt and a grated nutmeg. Moisten with two 
quarts of wine vinegar, and when the Tomatoes are thoroughly 
cooked, strain them through a fine sieve. Put the catsup in bot- 
tles, cork them tightly and boil them in a hot water bath for twenty 
minutes. 

TOMATO CATSUP, EPICUREAN STYLE. 

. No. 1592. — Select six dozen nice ripe Tomatoes, cut them in 
halves, put them in a saucepan and boil them -for fifteen minutes. 
Then drain them on a cloth, which you place in a colander. When 
dry rub them through a fine sieve. Put this puree in a flat sauce- 
pan, season it with salt and red pepper, and add a pint of Worces- 
tershire sauce and a glassful of wine vinegar. Then reduce the 
catsup to its proper consistency, take it from the fire, and when 
cold bottle it. Cork them tightly and boil them in a hot water bath 
for twenty-five minutes. Keep the bottles tightly corked at all 
times. 



THE PHISIOLOGY OF TASTE. 367 

TOMATOES, YUM-YUM. 

No. 1593. — Wasli and clean six dozen green Tomatoes, slice them 
finely and add to them about the same quantity of finely sliced 
green peppers. Put them in an earthen jar with one pound of salt, 
mix the whole well together, and on the following day drain off the 
moisture and add one ounce of ground allspice, half an ounce of 
cloves, four ounces of grated horse-radish and six ounces of mustard 
seed. Mix the whole well together and pour over them some boiled 
wine vinegar to cover. Cover the jar tightly and keep it in a cool 
place. 

PKESEEVED TOMATOES. 

No. 1594. — Use only ripe Tomatoes, wash them in cold water and 
trim ofi" the stems. Pour boiling water over them, peel them, cut 
them in quarters and lay them in a wooden tub until all are finished. 
Then put them in a quart or gallon can, solder on the cover and 
boil it in a hot water bath. The quarts require forty-five minutes 
and the gallons an hour and a half to boil. 

PEESERVED TOMATO SAUCE. 

No. 1595. — Select nice red ripe Tomatoes, trim them, wash them 
in cold water, cut them in quarters and put them in a saucepan on 
a brisk fire. Let them boil for fifteen minutes. Spread a cloth over 
a basket or strainer and put the Tomatoes on this cloth to drain for 
one hour. Then rub them through a fine sieve and put the sauce 
in champagne bottles. Cork them tightly, tie the corks down and 
boil the bottles in a hot water bath for thirty minutes. All pre- 
serves should be put on to boil with cold water. When bottles are 
used they should be packed in straw, and when boiled let them 
stand until the water, in which they have been boiled, is cool before 
removing them. When ready for use this sauce may be prepared 
the same as fresh Tomatoes, and for this purpose it is only neces- 
sary to thicken the sauce, season it to taste and strain it again. 

WHOLE TOMATOES, PEESERVED IN SAUCE. 

No, 1596. — Select small, red, ripe, firm Tomatoes, dip them in boil- 
ing water and peel them. Put them into large-mouthed bottles, 
without injuring the Tomatoes, and do not have the bottles too full. 
Fill the bottles with sauce made as in No. 1595 to cover. Cork the 
bottles tightly and tie the corks down. Then boil them in a hot 
water bath for three-quarters of an hour. Before using these Toma- 
toes they should always be warmed in their own sauce. 



368 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 



TOMATO FIGS PRESERVED. 



No. 1597. — The Fig or Bed Pear Tomato, as described in No. 
1553, is one of the very best varieties for preserving. Dip them in 
boiling water and peel them, being careful not to injure them. 
Put five pounds of the Tomatoes in an earthen jar with five pounds 
of crushed cube sugar, then cover them and set them in a cool dry 
place for two or three days. Then drain the juice into a copper 
basin, set it on the fire to boil, skim it well and, when clear of all 
the scum, let the syrup cool and then pour it over the Tomatoes. 
Repeat this operation three times in one week. After this, when 
the weather is favorable, take the Tomatoes out of the jar and place 
them on dishes or plates in the sun to dry for about six or seven 
days, occasionally turning them over, and when they are dried put 
them in boxes lined with white paper. Sprinkle some powdered 
sugar over them, then put another layer of Tomatoes (not too close 
together), then powdered sugar again, then Tomatoes, and continue 
this until the box is full. Cover them and keep them in a dry 
place. 



Article: CCXV. 



French TONKA BEAN, German 

Tonka (Feve). TonJcabohne.. 

No. 1598. — The Tonka Bean is the seed of a large tree that grows 
in Guiana, Mexico and the Southern part of America. The seed or 
bean is inclosed in an oblong, ovate pod, and is about one inch long 
and one-eighth of an inch wide. It has a dark brown, wrinkled, 
shining, thin and brittle skin, and a light brown oily kernel. It 
has a strong, agreeable aromatic odor and a bitterish taste. It is 
used for culinary purposes as a substitute for vanilla, which it resem- 
bles in flavor. Tobacconists use it largely to flavor tobacco and to 
mix with snuff when ground or powdered. 



ArTICIvK ccxvi. 



TRUFFLES. 

Truffles. Truffle. 

No. 1599. — Trufiles are a species of fungi that are subterranean 
in their habit and are mostly found in the neighborhood of oak and 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE, 369 

chestnut trees, but do not thrive well in thick woods. They are 
found from two inches to one foot below the soil. They have 
neither roots nor stems, and vary in color from white to light brown 
and black. They are somewhat globular in form and vary in size. 
Their surface is knotty or warty, and is covered with a skin or net- 
work which resembles veins. When they have attained their full 
growth they diffuse an agreeable odor which is quite peculiar. The 
flesh is solid and has a delicious taste, but when the Truffles are 
exposed for a few days they begin to decay and become bitter and 
disagreeable. They are put up in cans and bottles and can be ob- 
tained from all first-class grocers. But when canned they have lit- 
tle of the fine flavor and good qualities of the Truffle in its fresh 
state. They are used principally for stuffing turkeys, capons, 
and with goose-liver pates, etc. They have always been held 
in high esteem by epicures, and, owing to their rarity, have 
always commanded a high price. French Truffles can occa- 
sionally be obtained in New York from the stewards on Atlantic 
steamers, but the majority of those used in the United States are 
preserved, and the best brands can only be obtained from respon- 
sible importers. The district of Perigord in France furnishes the 
best flavored Truffles, which are of a black color. In the other 
parts of France they are grayish in color. The Italian Truffles from 
Piedmont are of a whitish color and have an excellent flavor. Truf- 
fles have not yet been found in the United States, although tubers 
that resemble them have been discovered in California, but it has 
not been accurately determined whether they are genuine Truffles 
or not. The following recipes are for canned Truffles. 

TKUFPLES (served WHOLE), WITH CHAMPAGNE SAUCE. 

No. 1600.— Open a can of Truffles and put the juice of the Truffles 
in a small saucepan. Add a faggot of parsley garnished with a few 
grains of pepper and two cloves, a small slice of lean raw ham and 
a large glass of dry champagne. Cover the saucepan and set it on 
the fire, and when this is reduced to one-quarter of its original 
quantity, add the Truffles and season with salt and pepper. When 
the Truffles are thoroughly warmed take out the faggot and dish 
them up. Pour the gravy over them and serve them with a dish of 
fresh butter. 

Note. — "When Truffles are allowed to boil in their sauce, or to remain too long on the fire, they 
become shrivelled and hard. 

TRUFFLES, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 1601. — Chop two shallots finely and put them in a saucepan 
with one spoonful of sweet oil. Warm it thoroughly and be careful 
24 



370 haeder's ameeican cookery. 

not to let it get browned. Then add a wine-glassful of Madeira 
wine and reduce the whole to one-quarter of its original quantity. 
Then add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce and a small clove of 
garlic chopped finely, and let it boil for five minutes. Then add 
the Truffles, cut in thick slices, and toss them over when thoroughly 
warmed. Add a piece of butter, to which add a little anchovy 
paste, toss them well over until the butter is melted, and then serve. 

TRUFFLES, PIEMONTAISE STYLE. 

No. 1602.- — Reduce half a pint of Madeira wine sauce and add the 
Truffles with their juice. When they are thoroughly warmed dish 
them up, and again warm the gravy and add to it half a tea-spoonful 
of Anchovy butter and a piece of fresh butter. Mix it well off of 
the fire until the butter is melted, then pour it over the Truffles 
and serve them hot. 

Note. — If the Truffles are large slice them, and if small leave them ■whole. 
BAKED TRUFFLES, WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

No. 1603. — Put a wine-glassful of white wine in a saucepan, and 
when it is reduced to one-quarter of its original quantity add one 
spoonful of meat glaze with four spoonfuls of Cream sauce and a 
small can of sliced Truffles. Season with a little salt and nutmeg, 
then put them in a buttered baking dish and sprinkle some grated 
Parmesan cheese over the top. Wipe the border and bake it in a 
moderate oven. 

TRUFFLES BAKED IN SHELLS. 

No. 1604. — Out the Truffles in small pieces or slice them and then 
put them in a reduced Madeira wine sauce. Butter the shells, fill 
them with the Truffles, sprinkle some fresh bread crumbs over 
them, put a piece of butter on the top of each, and bake them in an 
oven. Serve them on a napkin. 

Note. — They may also be made with Cream sauce, using a reduced Cream sauce in place of the 
Madeira wine sauce. 

TRUFFLES, WITH MADEIRA WINE SAUCE. 

No. 1605. — Reduce a Madeira wine sauce with the juice of the 
Truffles, and when ready to serve, add the Truffles (sliced), and a 
piece of butter. Toss them over well. They may be served on 
toast or gratinated crusts. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 371 

ESSENCE OP TEUPPLES. 

No. 1606. — As we have no fresli Truffles in this conntry, the juice 
of the canned article must be used. Put the juice in a saucepan, 
add a little Madeira wine, cover the saucepan, and reduce it to half 
of its quantity. Use it in the sauce with the Truffles, or in any 
sauce where an essence of Truffles is needed. 

TEUPPLES FOE GAENITUEE. 

No. 1607. — For large garnitures, peel the Truffles and warm them 
thoroughly in champagne or Madeira wine. The black ones are 
preferred, and are dressed in bunches with other garnitures. To 
garnish entrees they are served with a white or brown sauce. The 
small ones are glazed, and may be used baked in shells, or cut in 
the shape of olives and used with other garnitures. 

TEUPPLES, FOE COLD GAENITUEES. 

No. 1608. — The Truffles may be used whole, or can be peeled and 
sliced. Cook them in champagne or Madeira wine, as for a hot 
garniture. Then let them get cool, and glaze them with Aspic jelly, 
or mask them with a cold Champagne sauce. Dress them in 
bunches with Aspic jelly, or in crusts cut in fancy shapes, or pep- 
per boxes. Garnish it with Aspic jelly. 

PUEEE OF TEUPPLES, FOE GAENITUEES, 

No. 1609.— Pound half a pound of Truffles and six ounces of 
butter in a mortar into a fine paste, and rub it through a fine sieve. 
Prepare a pint of Madeira wine sauce reduced with the juice of the 
Truffles. When ready to serve, add the paste to the sauce, stirring 
it off of the fire until melted. 

TEUFPLE SALAD, WITH AETICHOKES, LUNING STIT^E. 

No. 1610. — Peel half a dozen young, tender artichokes. Cut the 
bottoms in thin slices, and sprinkle them with a little salt. 
Let them macerate for twenty minutes, then drain them on a 
napkin. Now slice finely one-quarter of its quantity of Truffles, 
and put them in a salad bowl with the artichokes, having pre- 
viously rubbed the bottom of the bowl Avith some garlic. Season 
with salt and pepper. Bub the yolks of two hard boiled .eggs 
through a fine sieve, and put them in a bowl with half a teaspoonful 
of English mustard diluted with oil and tarragon vinegar. Pour 



372 HARDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

this dressing over the Truffles and artichokes, cover the bowl and, 
when ready to serve, mix the whole well together, and arrange it 
properly. 

TRUFFLE SALAD, WITH POTATOES, RUSSIAN STYLE, 

No. 1611. — Slice one dozen boiled new potatoes, and put them in 
a salad bowl with the same quantity of sliced Truffles. Season 
with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and cover the bowl. In twenty 
minutes add a little finely-chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, 
and mix them well together. Arrange the salad properly, and mask 
it with a Mayonnaise dressing mixed with a little mustard. 

SMALL TRUFFLE PATES, BENNETT STYLE. 

No, 1612. — Prepare two dozen pates with puff paste. Cut the 
Truffles in small pieces, and put them in a saucepan with a glassful 
of dry champagne. When the moisture is reduced add the Truffles, 
four spoonfuls of Madeira wine sauce, and one spoonful of game 
puree. Fill the pat^s with this mixture, put on the covers, and 
serve them hot. 

STUFFED TRUFFLES. 

No. 1613. — Scoop out the centres of two dozen large Truffles, 
without injuring the sides, and chop the parts scooped out finely. 
Chop two shallots finely, put them in a saucepan with a piece of 
butter, and cook them without letting them get browned. Then 
add a small glass of Madeira wine and the chopped Truffles. Let 
them cook until the moisture is reduced, after which allow them to 
get cold. Then add a forced meat of chicken or game. Stuff the 
Truffles with this mixture, arrange them in a flat saucepan, and set 
them in the oven for a few minutes until they are glazed. Serve 
them with a reduced Madeira wine sauce around the dish. 



Artticlk CCXVII. 



TUBEROUS-ROOTED CHICKLING WETCH, or TUBEROUS- 

FrencU ROOTED PEA. German 

Gesse. Knotig Gess. 

No. 1614. — This is a perennial plant, having spreading roots that 
are furnished with numerous black irregular-shaped tubers, which 
weigh from one to three ounces each. The roots are farinaceous, 
and when cooked have a rich taste, somewhat like roasted chestnuts. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 37.3 



ArTICIvK ccxviii 



French TURMERIC, OR CURCUMA. German 

Curcuma, or Turmeric. Curciimei. 

No. 1615. — The root of this plant is perennial, tuberous, palmate 
and internally of a deep yellow color. It is a native of the East 
Indies and China, the latter furnishing the best kind. The odor is 
peculiar; the taste warm, bitterish, and feebly aromatic. It tinges 
the saliva yellow. The root is a stimulant aromatic, bearing some 
resemblance to ginger in its operation, and is much used in India 
as a condiment. It is used in cookery to impart a yellow color to 
xice and foreign soups. 



ARTICI.K CCXIX. 



TURNIP. 

J^avet. Ruhe. 

No. 1616. — -The Turnip is a hardy biennial plant, and has been 
cultivated from time immemorial. The roots of all the varieties 
attain their full size during the first year. It is most easily aifected 
in its form and flavor by soil, climate, and mode of culture. There 
are a great many varieties. It is a wholesome and agreeable 
vegetable. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1617. — Sow in drills fourteen inches apart, and half an inch 
■deep. Keep them perfectly free from weeds and, when the bottoms 
begin to enlarge brush away the earth from about the roots to the 
depth of half an inch or more, and give them a light dressing of 
wood ashes. It is the surest mode of obtaining fair and smooth 
turnips in old gardens, where they are almost certain to grow wormy 
if the' earth is allowed to remain in contact with the roots. For the 
spring and summer crops it is important to get them started very 
early, so that they may have time to grow to a sufficient size before 
hot weather, when they will soon become tough and strong. 

For the fall crop sow in the Middle and Western States in the lat- 
ter part of July and August, as directed for the spring sowing. 



374 HAKDEE'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

WHITE FLESH VARIETIES. 

EARLY PURPLE TOP MUNICH. 

No. 1618. — A very early handsome Turnip of a white color, with 
a bright purplish-reel top. It is of good quality when young, but 
bitter when old. It is one of the best for first crop. 

WHITE EGG. 

No. 1619. — A quick growing egg-shaped, perfectly smooth, pure 
white variety, growing half out of the ground, with a small top and 
rough leaves. The flesh is very sweet and mild, never having the 
rank strong taste of some varieties. 

EARLY WHITE STONE. 

No. 1620. — This is round, of firm texture and quick growth; 
medium size, and much cultivated. 

JERSEY TURNIP. 

No. 1621. — An exceedingly delicate, sweet, white Turnip for table 
use. It is very popular, and is esteemed as one of the best. It 
grows long, and is somewhat like a parsnip in form. 

•EARLY WHITE DUTCH. 

No. 1622. — A medium sized, white flat Turnip, of quick growth, 
juicy and of excellent quality when young. Sow it in the spring or 
fall. 

EARLY WHITE FLAT DUTCH STRAP-LEAVED. 

No. 1623. — A most excellent garden variety, that is much used 
in the Southern States. It is very early, erect and tender, and one 
of the best for table use. 

EARLY PURPLE TOP STRAP-LEAVED. 

No. 1624, — Similar to the preceding variety, except in color, 
being purple or dark red on the top. It is of good quality. 

cow HORN, OR LONG WHITE. 

No. 1625. — Carrot-like in form, growing nearly half out of the 
ground, and is generally slightly crooked. It is pure white, except 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 375 

a little shade of green near the top. It is delicate and well flavored, 
of ver}' rapid growth, and is a favorite for fall and winter use. 

PURPLE TOP MAMMOTH. 

No. 1626. — Globe-shaped and large, firm in texture, juicy, of 
exceedingly quick growth, and very hardy. 

LARGE WHITE FLAT NORFOLK. 

No. 1627. — A variety universally grown. It is round and flat, 
being white in color. The tops of this variety are used for greens, 

POMEEANEAN "WHITE GLOBE. 

No. 1628. — One of the most productive kinds, and is of the most 
perfect globe-shape, the skin being white and smooth. 

PURPLE-TOP WHITE GLOBE. 

No. 1629. — A variety of the purple-top flat Turnip that is globular 
in form, beautiful in appearance, of most excellent quality, and a 
good keeper. 

SWEET GERMAN. 

No. 1630. — A popular variety in the New England States. The 
flesh is white, hard, firm and sweet. It keeps well, and is one of 
the best for winter use. 

SEVEN TOP. 

« 
No. 1631. — Cultivated extensively in the South for the tops, 
which are used for greens. It is very hardy, and will grow all 
winter, but does not produce a good bulb, and is only recommended 
for the tops. 

YELLOW-FLESHED SORTS. 

EARLY YELLOW MONTMAGNY. 

No. 1632. — The most beautiful of the yellow-fleshed varieties, 
and very early. The bulb is oval, medium sized, and clear yellow, 
stained with bright purple at the toj). The flesh is yellow, finely 
grained, sweet and tender. 



376 HAEDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

LARGE AMBER GLOBE. 

No. 1633. — One of the best varieties. Flesli yellow, finely 
grained and sweet. The skin is yellow, with a green top. It grows 
to large size, and is a good keeper. 

* ORANGE JELLY, OR GOLDEN BALL. 

No. 1634. — One of the most delicate and sweetest of yellow-fleshed 
Turnips. It is not of large size, but is firm, hard and of most ex- 
<}ellent flavor. It keeps well, and is a superior table variety. 

PURPLE-TOP YELLOW ABERDEEN. 

No. 1635. — The roots are medium in size and round in form. The 
flesh is pale-yellow, tender and sugary. It is hardy and produc- 
tive, and keeps well. 

EARLY YELLOW FINLAND. 

No. 1636. — An early yellow-fleshed variety, beautiful in form and 
medium sized. The flesh is remarkably fine, closely grained and 
of a rich, sugary flavor. An excellent early variety. 

EARLY YELLOW MALTA. 

No. 1637. — This is a* beautiful, symmetrical, early variety, of 
medium size. The skin is very smooth, and of a bright orange- 
yellow color. It is sweet and tender, and one of the best yellow 
summer Turnips. 

MASHED TURNIPS. 

No. 1638. — Pare the Turnips and cut them in slices (when they 
are old parboil them for five minutes), put them in a saucepan, 
cover them with boiling water, season with salt, cover the saucepan 
and boil them until tender. Then drain them in a colander, and 
when dry, pound them through a fine colander, return them to the 
saucepan, season with salt and pepper, add a piece of butter, mix 
the whole well together and warm them thoroughly. 

PUREE OF TURNIPS, WITH CREAM. 

No. 1639. — Prepare the Turnips as in No. 1638, and, when they 
are dry, rub them through a fine colander. Then put them in a flat 
saucepan, season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, add one 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 377 

glassful of cream, and reduce the puree to its proper consistency 
while stirring it with a wooden spoon. Before serving add a piece 
of butter. 

Note. — When they are to be used as a garniture they should be rubbed through a fine sieve. 
PUEEE OE TURNIPS, WITH CREAM, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1640. — Pare two dozen young white Turnips, slice them and 
parboil them until they are nearly tender. Then drain them and 
put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Season them with 
salt, pepper, a little nutmeg and a pinch of sugar, cover the sauce- 
pan and let them cook until the moisture is nearly reduced (not 
letting them get browned). Then add four spoonfuls of Cream 
sauce, mix them well together, and rub them through a line sieve. 
Put the puree in a flat saucepan and reduce it to the proper con- 
sistency while slowly adding a cupful of cream. Before serving 
add a piece of butter. 

GLAZED TURNIPS (BROWN) FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1641. — Pare one dozen Turnips and cut them in four or six 
pieces, according to their size. Trim them in a clove-like shape, 
and parboil them for five minutes. Then drain them and put them 
in a small saucepan. Moisten them with broth and add a piece of 
butter, a pinch of sugar and a little salt. Cook them on a brisk 
fire, and when the broth is reduced and the Turnips nicely glazed, 
dish them up without breaking them. This may be served with 
brown gravy or with stewed ducks, or any kind of braised meats, 
using the gravy the meats were braised in. 

GLAZED TURNIPS ( WHITE) FOR GARNITURE. 

No. 1642.^ — Prepare the Turnips as in No. 1641, but be careful 
not to let them get too brown in color. Serve them with a Butter, 
Cream or Allemande sauce, with a boiled leg of mutton or any meat 
where a white vegetable garniture is required. 

STEWED TURNIPS, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1643. — Use only small young Turnips. Peel and round them 
all of equal size, parboil them for three minutes, then drain them 
and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them 
lightly and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, then 
moisten them with white broth and finish cooking them. When 
they are done dish them up. Reduce the broth to a light glaze and 
add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. In two or three minutes 



378 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY, 

take it off of the fire, add a piece of butter and stir the same well 
until the butter is melted. Then add a little finely chopped parsley 
and pour it over the Turnips. 

STEWED TURNIPS WITH ONIONS. 

No. 1644. — Pare one dozen Turnips, cut them in four or six parts 
and trim the edges. Peel one and a half dozen small white onions 
and put them in a saucepan with the Turnips. Add water or broth 
to cover them, a piece of butter and a little salt. Cover the sauce- 
pan and let them cook until done, then drain off the broth and dish 
them up in a deep vegetable dish. Make a Butter sauce, into which 
add a teaspoonful of mustard fiour and a pinch of nutmeg and, 
when ready to serve, pour it over the Turnips. 

STEWED TURNIPS, CONVENT STYLE. 

No. 1645. — Pare and cut one dozen Turnips in quarters, trim the 
edges, parboil them for five minutes and then drain them. Put 
them in a saucepan with a pint of chicken broth, a little salt, a 
pinch of sugar and four ounces of marrow cut in small squares, 
cover the saucepan and let them cook until thoroughly done when 
the broth should be three-quarters reduced. Then set them on the 
side of the fire and add two ounces of butter and a cup of cream, 
into which dilute the yolks of four raw eggs. Toss the whole well 
over until the butter is melted. Serve them immediately as they 
must not be allowed to remain on the fire after the eggs are mixed. 

BOILED TURNIPS, PLAIN. 

No. 1646. — Pare the Turnips and cut them in four or six pieces. 
Then trim the edges and parboil them for three minutes. Put them, 
in a saucepan, cover them with water or broth, add a piece of butter, 
a little salt and a pinch of sugar, cover the saucepan and let them 
boil until thoroughly done. Then drain and serve them with a 
little butter over them. 

BOILED TURNIPS WITH WHITE SAUCE. 

No. 1647. — Prepare and cook the Turnips as in No. 1646 and, 
when they are done, drain them, and put them in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter. Toss them over the fire a few minutes and add a 
few spoonfuls of Allemande sauce. Before serving sprinkle a little 
finely chopped parsley over them. 

Note. — The above is known as Turnips, Poulette style. A very nice sauce may be made of the 
broth in which the Turnips were cooked that is somewhat similar to a Biitter sauce. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OP TASTE. 379 

SOUP — PUEEE OF TURNIPS. 

No. 1648. — Pare and slice two dozen wliite Turnips, parboil them 
for five minutes, drain them and put them in a saucepan with a piece 
of butter and a little sugar. Set them on the fire and, when the 
moisture is reduced, let them get lightly colored. Then add two 
quarts of white broth and a faggot of parsley, garnished with two 
leeks. Cover the saucepan and let them get well cooked. Then 
add two quarts of lightly thickened chicken or veal broth. Fifteen 
minutes after this skim it well, take out the faggot, and rub the 
soup through a fine sieve. Put it back in a saucepan to keep warm, 
and season to taste. Before serving add six ounces of butter and a 
pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of eight raw eggs. Stir it 
well until the butter is melted, and serve it with boiled rice or small 
pieces of toasted bread. 

SOUP — PUREE OF TURNIPS, WITH CREAM. 

No. 1649. — Prepare the Turnips as in No. 1648, and, when reduc- 
ing the moisture, keep the Turnips white. When they are cooked 
add three quarts of Cream sauce, rub it through a fine sieve, and 
put the puree in a saucepan to keep warm in a hot water bath. 
Season to taste, and before serving add sis ounces of butter divided 
into small pieces, and a pint of cream, in which dilute the yolks of 
eight raw eggs. Stir it briskly until the butter is melted, and serve 
with pearl barley, previously cooked in broth. 

SOUP — PUREE OF TURNIPS, WITH FARINA. 

No, 1650. — Prepare a puree of Turnips as in Nos. 1648 or 1649, 
with white or yellow Turnips. When the soup is done add some 
farina, which must be cooked separately in broth. This soup must 
not be too thick. 

PECTORAL BROTH, WITH TURNIPS. 

No. 1651. — Put in a saucepan one gallon of cold water, with four 
pounds of veal shin, cut in small pieces, two pounds of lights, and 
one ounce of shelled almonds. Set it on the fire to boil slowly uatil 
the broth is reduced to half its original quantity. While the broth 
is being reduced prepare one dozen Turnips. Pare them, then wrap 
them in cooking paper and bake thom. When they are done 
remove the papers and put the Turnips in the broth. Then reduce 
the broth to one quarter of its original quantity. Then strain the 



380 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

broth, return it to the saucepan, and add two ounces o>f rock-candy 
and one of white powdered gum. Keep the broth warm and serve 
it as required. 



Articlk CCXX. 



French TURNIP-CABBAGE, OR KOHLRABI. German 

Chou rave. Kohlrube, 

No, 1652. — The Turnip-Cabbage, or Kohl-rabi, is a vegetable that 
is intermediate between the cabbage and the turnip, combining the 
flavor of both. The erlible part is a turnip-shaped bulb that is 
formed by the swelling of the stem. For table use it should be cut 
when small, as it is then tender and delicate. When it attains its 
full size it becomes tough and stringy. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1653. — It is cultivated best by sowing the seeds in rows, 
from May to July. It is difficult to transplant, hence it is best to 
sow the entire crop from seed, and thin it out as it stands. 

EARLY WHITE VIENNA. 

No. 1654. — An early, small and handsome variety, with a w^hite 
bulb. 

EARLY PURPLE VIENNA. 

No. 1655. — This is similar to the White Vienna, except in color. 

STUFFED TURNIP CABBAGE. 

No. 1656. — Peel and wash one dozen Turnip-Cabbages of equal 
size, parboil them until they are nearly cooked, and then immerse 
them in cold water and drain them. Cut the top parts off, and 
scoop out half of the centre of each, which you will chop finely. 
Add to it some raw forced meat of veal with fine herbs, season with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg and some finely-chopped chives, and mix 
them well together. Then stuflT the scooped Cabbages with this 
preparation and arrange them in a buttered flat saucepan. Moisten 
them with a little veal gravy, then let them boil up once, after 
which set them on the side of the fire to cook slowly until tender, 
basting them occasionally with the gravy. When done dish them 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 381 

up. Strain the gravy into another saucepan, skim off the grease, 
and add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce. Eeduce it to its proper 
consistency and pour it over the Turnip-Cabbages. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE, WITH CEEAM SAUCE. 

No. 1657. — Peel one dozen Turnip-Cabbages, cut them in scallops 
and boil them in lightly salted water, in which a piece of butter 
has been put. When they are tender drain off the water, add four 
spoonfuls of Cream sauce and a piece of butter, and season with 
salt and pepper. Toss them well together in the pan, and then 
serve. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE, WITH BUTTEE SAUCE. 

No. 1658. — Prepare them as in No. 1657, using Butter sauce in- 
stead of Cream sauce. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE, GEEMAN STYLE. 

No. .1659. — Peel and slice one dozen Turnip-Cabbages, parboil 
them for five minutes and then drain them. Slice two onions finely 
and put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry them 
lightly and then add the Cabbages. Season with salt, pepper, and 
nutmeg, and moisten them with a good broth. Cover the saucepan 
and let them cook until tender, when the broth will be nearly re- 
duced. Then add three spoonfuls of Butter or Allemande sauce, 
and a little veal gravy, allowing it to simmer for fifteen minutes. 
Before serving add a little finely -chopped parsley. 

TUENIP-CABBAGE, SMOTHEEED AND GLAZED. 

No. 1660. — Peel one dozen Turnip-Cabbages of even size, parboil 
them until they are half cooked, then immerse them in cold water 
and drain them on a napkin. Then cut out the center of each with 
a round cutter, without breaking them. Arrange them in a deep 
flat saucepan lined with thin slices of fat pork. Then chop one 
handful of fresh mushrooms finely and put them in another sauce- 
pan with one chopped shallot and a piece of butter. Cover the 
saucepan and let them cook until the moisture is reduced. While 
doing this chop the portion of the Cabbage that you scooped out 
finely, and add it to the mushrooms when the moisture is reduced. 
Season them with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add four spoonfuls of 
reduced Allemande sauce and mis the whole together while adding 
the yolks of four raw eggs. Now put this preparation in an earthen 
bowl and when it is cold, add to it four spoonfuls of forced meat of 



382 haedee's ameeican cookeey, 

cliicken. Then fill the centres of the Cabbages with this mixture, 
moisten them lightly with veal broth, put the cover on the pan and 
set it in a moderate oven. When they are nicely glazed dish them 
up and serve with them a reduced AUemande sauce flavored with 
essence of mushrooms. 

TUENIP CABBAGE, EOE GAENITUEES. 

No. 1661. — For garnishing joints prepare it as in No. 1656, and 
alternate with stuffed tomatoes or mushrooms. For entrees of 
chops, eAG., prepare them as in No. 1657 and 1658. Pour a light 
sauce over them and arrange the chops around them, on the dish, in 
a circle. 



ArXICIvK CCXXI. 



TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL. 

Cerfeu'il (enracine). ■ Knoiig Garienlcerhel. 

No. 1662. — This is a hardy biennial plant that is cultivated for 
its root, which is a valuable esculent. The roots are of fusiform, 
about four or five inches long, and nearly one and a half inches in 
diameter. The skin is grayish-black in color, and the flesh is white 
and farinaceous. It is boiled and prepared in the same manner as 
the oyster plant. 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1663. — Sow it in drills, in rich, mellow soil, either in April 
or October, and treat it as you would carrots. 



ARTICI.K CCXXII 



UNICORN ROOT. 

Unicorn. Einhorniourzel. 

No. 1664. — ^^This is a hardy annual plant with peculiarly shaped 
seed-pods, which, when young and tender, are highly prized for 
pickling, and by many are considered superior to cucumbers. The 
pods are produced in large numbers and sliould be gathered when 
about half grown, as they are worthless when the flesh hardens. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 383 

CULTUEE. 

No. 1665. — Sow them in April or May, in open ground, about 
three feet apart in each direction, as the plants spread considerabl}^ 
when growing. Thej are cultivated easily. 



Article CCXXIII. 



FrcMch VALERIAN. German 

Vuleriane. Baldriun. 

No. 1666. — This is an annual plant, the roots of which are used 
for medicinal purposes. When in blossom the plant presents a 
beautiful appearance. The stem is smooth and branching, and the 
leaves are oblong, thick, fleshy and of a glossy-green color. The 
young leaves are used as a salad. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1667. — It succeeds best in warm light soil. Sow the seeds 
during the latter part of April in drills that are fourteen inches 
apart. Continue sowing every fortnight until July for a succession 
of crops. 



ArTTICIvE^ CCXXIV. 



VANILLA. 

Vanille. Vanille. 

No. 1668. — This is a genus of orchidaceous plants that are natives 
of South America, the West Indies, and Mexico. It is a fleshy, 
dark green perennial, climbing plant, with a long, smooth, dark 
green stem, much branched, and finished at the nodes with atrial 
roots, 'which cling to and obtain nourishment from the tree support- 
ing the plant. The dark green tough leaves are oval, sessile, fleshy 
and veinless. The pale, greenish-yellow flowers are about two inches 
in diameter. The fruit is a slender pod about eight inches long, 
filled with an oily mass containing numerous small, black, shining 
seeds. The pods are collected before they are quite ripe, dried in 
the shade, covered with a coating of fixed oil, and then tied in 



384 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

bundles which are surrounded with sheet lead, or enclosed in small 
metallic boxes, and sent to market. Several varieties of Vanilla 
exist in commerce. The most valuable is the Manza Vanilla. It 
has a peculiar, strong, agreeable odor, and a warm aromatic, sweet- 
ish taste. The interior pulpy portion is the most aromatic. The 
Simarona Vanilla is smaller, of a lighter color, and less aromatic. 
The pods are dry, and contain no Vanilla. The Pompona or Babo 
Vanilla has pods that are from five to seven inches long, of a dark 
brown color, and possessing a strong odor something like anise. 
Vanilla is used in medicine, in perfumery, and for flavoring in 
cookery. 

VANILLA FLAVOR, 

No. 1669. — Cut four Vanilla beans in pieces one inch long; then 
split them, and put them in a quart bottle. Pour over them some 
wine spirits or white whiskey, and cork the bottle tightly. Shake 
it well every day for a week, and then it will be ready for use. 
Keep the bottle tightly corked always. 

VANILLA BEANS. 

No. 1670. — A Vanilla Bean may be boiled in the milk when 
making custards or creams. When it is boiled, remove the Bean, 
and put it back in the bottle, as it may be used several times. 
After repeated usage when almost all of the flavor has been extracted 
from the Bean, put it in a mortar with some po'.vdered sugar and 
pound them to a fine powder. Then sift it through a fine sieve, put 
it in a bottle, keep it tightly corked, and use it for flavoring 
cakes, etc. 



Article CCXXV. 



French VEGETABLES. German 

Legume (variee). Gemuse. 

No. 1671. — All kinds and varieties of plants that are cultivated 
for culinary purposes are classed as vegetables. Of some kinds 
merely the seeds or roots are eaten; of others, the leaves or the 
fruit alone is partaken of, while others are used only for seasoning. 

They are classified as follows : 

Alliaceous plants, such as garlic, leeks, onions and shallots. 

Asparaginous plants, such as asparagus, hops, cardoons and arti- 
chokes. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 385 

Brassicaceous plants, sucli as cabbage, cauliflower, kale and 
Brussels sprouts. 

Cucurbitaceous plants, such as melons, cucumbers and squash. 

Esculent roots, such as carrots, potatoes, turnips, oyster plant 
and parsnips. 

Esculent fungi, such as mushrooms and truffles. 

Leguminous plants, such as beans, lentils and peas. 

Oleraceous plants, such as aromatic and pot herbs, as described 
in Article XIII. 

Salad plants, such as celery, endives, lettuce, cress, corn-salad 
and dandelion. 

Spinaceous plants, such as spinach, sorrel, sea-beet, nettle and 
orach. 

VEGETABLE BALLS, TUTKISH STYLE. 

No. 1672. — Select a good head of cabbage, trim off the white, 
tender leaves, and parboil them for five minutes. Then immerse 
them in cold water, dry them on a napkin, and remove the hard 
ribs. Chop one pound of mutton fillet finely. Put it in a bowl, 
and add one finely-sliced onion, one handful of lightly-parboiled 
rice, a little finely-chopped parsley, three spoonfuls of reduced 
AUemande sauce, and season it highly. Mix the stuffing well 
together, and roll it into balls about the size of a walnut. 
Cover them carefully with the parts of the cabbage leaves, 
arrange them in a flat saucepan close together, in from four 
to six layers, seasoning each layer, and then moisten with 
broth to cover. Put a cover on them to keep them down 
in the pan. Then let them boil until the broth is half re- 
duced. After this set them on the side of the fire to cook slowly. 
When they are cooked the broth should be almost entirely reduced. 
Put the balls on the dish thej^ are to be served on, and make a 
sauce of the strained broth, diluted with the yolks of six raw eggs. 
Add the juice of one lemon to it, pour it over the balls and then 
serve them hot. 

TIMBAL OP VEGETABLE BALLS, MILANAISE STYLE. 

No. 1673. — Prepare the cabbage leaves as in No. 1672. Chop 
one pound of mutton fillet finely, and put it in a bowl. Add half 
a pound of grated fresh fat pork, one handful of fresh bread crumbs, 
one finely-chopped onion, two spoonfuls of .finely-chopped fresh 
mushrooms, and a little finely-chopped parsley. Then season with 
salt and pepper, add two raw eggs, and mix the whole together. 
Roll this stuffing into small balls about the size of a walnut. Cover 
them carefully with the parts of the cabbage leaves, arrange them 
25" 



386 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

in a flat saucepan close together, in from four to six layers, season- 
ing eacli layer, and then moisten them with broth to cover. Put a- 
cover on them to keep them down in the pan. Then put them on 
the fire and let them cook until the broth is reduced, and they will 
be thoroughly cooked. 

Prepare separately a Eice Rissoti, as in No. 1299, keeping it 
firmer, and add to it six ounces of butter and grated Parmesan 
cheese. 

Butter a Timbal mould, line it with the cabbage leaves, and put 
a layer of the rice around the sides and bottom about one-quarter 
of an inch thick. Now put in a layer of the balls and sprinkle them 
with some grated Parmesan cheese, and a little reduced Tomato- 
sauce. Continue doing this until the mould is full. Cover it with 
a layer of rice, with cabbage leaves over it, and place some thia 
slices of fat pork on top of the leaves. Set the mould in a moderate, 
oven to bake for half an hour. Take out the mould, remove the 
pork, and turn the mould over on a saucepan cover to let the moist- 
ure drain off. Then put the mould on the dish it is to be served 
on, remove the mould and pour over the Timbal a reduced Madeira 
wine sauce, flavored with essence of mushrooms. 

VEGETABLE BORDERS. 

No. 1674. — To make vegetable borders the larger vegetables must 
first be cut with a spoon or column cutter, in any desired shape. 
Those generally used are Carrots, Turnips, Artichoke bottoms, 
Green Peas, String Beans, Brussels Sprouts, Flageolet Beans, and. 
the flower buds of Cauliflower. The Carrots, Turnips and Arti- 
chokes are first parboiled, then cooked in broth seasoned with salt 
and a pinch of sugar. The other vegetables are boiled in plain 
water lightly salted, then immersed in cold water, so they will re- 
tain their color. Then drain and dry them on a napkin. Care must 
be taken when cooking vegetables for borders not to have them 
underdone. 

Butter the mould lightly with clarified butter, and set it in a pan 
in which you have some broken ice. Dip the vegetables desired for 
the border in clarified butter, and place them against the mould in 
whatever design you like, alternating them in color. When the 
butter gets cold the vegetables will adhere to the side of the mould. 
When the border is finished cover it with a layer of forced meat of 
chicken, being careful not to disarrange the design, and to have the 
layers of equal thickness. Then fill the mould with a vegetable 
garniture, to which add a reduced Allemande or Cream sauce. 
Cover it with a forced meat of chicken, and smooth it nicely. On 
this put a buttered paper cover, and poach it for twenty minutes. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE 387 

When it is ready to serve place a napkin on a saucepan cover, and 
turn the mould on to this napkin. Let it set for a little while to 
drain off the moisture. Then turn the mould on to the dish the 
border is intended to be served on, and carefully remove the mould. 

Note. — This border may be filled with potatoes, or any kind of vegetable puree. Other Borders 
can be prepared with a puree of ■vegetables, such as celery, green peas, spinach, and chestnuts, re- 
ducing the purees well. When they get a little cooled add the yolks of raw eggs, mix them well to- 
gether, and then fill the moulds with the puree. Then poach them and proceed as explained above. 

CHAETREUSE. 

No. 1675. — Chartreuse is one of the finest and most elaborate of 
all vegetable entrees. Young vegetables should be obtained, if 
possible; aud they must be prepared with care, and in a tasteful 
manner. Those that are used to ornament the mould should con- 
sist only of such as will not lose their color in cooking, as their 
fresh and bright appearance is what gives the fine effect to the 
entree. 

Wash and scrape some nice young red carrots, and cut them in 
pieces two inches long. With a column cutter cut out as many red 
pieces as possible, having them one-quarter of an inch in diameter. 
Put them in a basin of cold water as you cut them. 

Now prepare an equal quantity of turnips in the same manner. 
When they are both ready, parboil them separately in lightly-salted 
water; then immerse them in cold water, and drain them. Put them 
in separate saucepans, cover each with sufficient white broth to 
cook them; add a pinch of sugar, and let them cook slowly until 
tender, when the broth will be reduced. Put napkins on two plates; 
place the carrots on one plate and the turnips on the other; cover 
each with a napkin, and set them aside to get cold. (Some of the 
carrots may be cut in squares or in diamond shape if desired.) 

While these are cooking, make a vegetable essence of the carrot 
trimmings, a few turnips, a head of celery cut in small pieces, a few 
parsley roots, and two onions, in each of which stick four cloves. 
Put them in a saucepan with three pints of white broth, and as 
soon as it commences to boil, skim it well, and then let it boil 
slowly until the vegetables are thoroughly cooked. Strain the 
broth through a napkin, and reduce it with four spoonfuls of Espag- 
nole sauce to its proper consistency. 

While these are cooking, prepare the following: Cut one head 
of cabbage in quarters; remove the stalk and hard ribs, and par- 
boil the cabbage for four minutes. Then drain it, and tie each 
piece together. Put the pieces in a saucepan lined with thin slices 
of fat pork, and in the centre put a piece of trimmed and parboiled 
bacon and two sausages, on top of which lay one dressed partridge 
or four larded quails. Season with salt, pepper and a little nut- 



388 haedee's ameeican cookeey. 

meg, and add a faggot of parsley garnished. Cover it with thin 
slices of fat pork, and moisten it with sufficient broth to cover it. 
Now put on the cover, let it cook slowly until thoroughly cooked, 
and then drain it in a colander. 

While the above is cooking, butter a large Timbal mould, and 
decorate the sides and bottom with the pieces of turnips and car- 
rots, placing them side by side, alternating the colors, and arrang- 
ing them in some nice design. Put the mould in a cool place to 
allow the butter to harden and keep the vegetables in their proper 
positions. When the mould is prepared, put the drained cabbage 
in a napkin, and press out all of the moisture; cut the bacon and 
sausage in slices, and carve the partridge or quails. Put a layer of 
the cabbage on the bottom and around the sides. Now put a layer 
of bacon on top of the cabbage, then a layer of sausage, and then 
a layer of partridge or quail, and continue doing this until the 
mould is full, having a layer of cabbage on the top. Put a buttered 
paper cover over it. Now place the mould in a saucepan in which 
there is sufficient water to come half way up to the top of the 
mould. (Be careful not to get any water in the mould.) Set it in 
. a moderate oven to cook for three-quarters of an hour. 

Ten minutes before serving, put a napkin on a saucepan-cover 

. and place the mould on it with the' top down so that the moisture 

will drain off. When ready to serve place the mould on a dish and 

vcarefully remove the mould that surrounds the vegetables. Then 

pour over it the sauce with the essence of vegetables. 

Note.— This Chartreuse can be prepared in various ways as will be explained under the proper 
headings. Squabs, breast of veal, wild ducks, larks, teal ducks, tenderloins of veal and fish can be 
used instead of partridges or quails. It is customary by many to put the birds in the moulds whole, 
but it is best to cut them up beforehand as they can then be served properly. The cabbage can be 
replaced by braised lettuce and the birds can be roasted, then cut in pieces and arranged accordingly. 
Chartreuse is sometimes ornamented with green peas, asparagus tops and string beans by inexper- 
ienced cooks. But this should not be done, as the steam will change the color of these vegetables 
and when they are removed from the mould thay will be unrecognizable and their beautiful effect 
•will be spoilt. , 

TIMBALS OF EGG PLANT, MACKAY STYLE. 

No. 1676. — Peel half a dozen small Egg plants and cut them 
lengthwise in six pieces. Trim each piece so as to have them all 
alike, put them in a bowl and season them with salt. Then cover 
them and one hour later drain off the water and dry them on a 
napkin. Put a piece of butter in a flat saucepan, and when it is 
melted add the Egg plant, fry it lightly and then drain it on a 
n.apkin. When it is cold arrange it in a buttered Timbal mould so 
as to cover the sides and bottom of the mould. Have the following 
preparation ready to put with this : Peel two Egg plants, cut them 
in slices, flour them and fry them lightly in clarified butter on both 
sides; then drain them on a napkin. Cut two braised fillets of 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 389 

mutton ia very small pieces, put them in a saucepan and add four 
spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs and two of fresh bread crumbs. 
Season with salt and pepper and add the yolks of two raw eggs. 
Mix the whole well together, then put a layer of this stuffing in the 
mould and then a layer of the fried Egg plant, continuing in this 
way until the mould is filled. Cover it with a buttered paper cover 
and bake it in a moderate oven for half an hour. When ready for 
use turn the mould on to the dish, remove it carefully and glaze the 
Timbal with a reduced Madeira wine sauce. Serve a brown Italian 
sauce separate. 

TIMBAL OF SAUEEKRAUT, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 1677. — Cook one pound of sauerkraut with half a pound of 
parboiled lean salt pork and, when they are three-quarters done, 
drain them in a colander and allow them to get cold. 

Prepare a Timbal mould and line it with a pate paste. Put a 
layer of sausage meat mixed with fine herbs, in the bottom; then 
put a layer of sauerkraut on that with a few thin slices of the above 
pork and some slices of fresh fillet of pork over it. Continue doing 
this until the mould is full. Over this put a layer of pate paste to 
close the top tightly and place a buttered paper cover over it. Set 
the mould in a moderate oven to bake slowly for one hour and a. 
half. Then remove the paper cover, turn the Timbal over on a dish, 
and remove the mould. Make a hole in the centre of the Timbal 
and put in a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine sauce. 

SMALL VEGETABLE PATES, FRENCH STYLE. 

No. 1678. — Cut one onion in small pieces one quarter of an inch 
square, and put it in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Fry it 
lightly, and then add one carrot and one turnip cut in small square 
pieces, the white part of a stalk of celery, half of a parsnip, and a 
little cabbage cut in fine shreds. Fry this mixture lightly for a few 
minutes, not letting it get browned. Then season it with salt, pep- 
per, and a pinch of sugar, and moisten it with just enough broth to 
cook it. Let it cook until the moisture is reduced to a glaze, and 
then add a soup-spoonful of reduced AUemande or Cream sauce,, 
and some finely-chopped parsley. Then set it aside to get cold. 

Now roll out some puff paste on the table as you would do when 
making pies, and with a three-inch round granulated cutter cut out 
some pieces. Wet the border of each, put some of the above stuff- 
ing in the center, and then place one of the round pieces of puff 
paste on top to cover each one. Press the edges close together, 
and put them on a buttered and floured pan. Now baste them with. 



390 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the yolks of eggs, diluted with water, and bake them in a hot 
oven. Serve them on a napkin. 

SMALL VEGETABLE PATES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1679. — Cut equal quantities of onions, carrots, celery and 
cabbage, in small square pieces. Put them in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter, and fry them lightly. Then moisten them with 
enough broth to cook them, and let them cook until the broth is 
reduced to a glaze. Now season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a 
pinch of sugar, and add some reduced AUemande or Cream sauce, 
and some cooked asparagus tops, or green peas, that have been 
cooked separately (or any kind of vegetable that is in season). 
Mix the whole well together, add a little finely-chopped parsley, and 
then set it aside to get cold. 

Make a pate paste, or use the trimmings of some puff paste. Roll 
out the paste, and with a three-inch oblong granulated cutter cut 
out some pieces. Wet the border of each and put some of the above 
stuffing in the center, and then place one of the oblong pieces of 
paste on top to covereach one. Press the edges close together and 
put them on a buttered and floured pan. Now baste them with the 
yolks of eggs diluted with water, and bake them in a hot oven. 
Serve them hot on a napkin. 

SMALL VEGETABLE CRUSTS, MACEDOINE STYLE. 

No. 1680. — Butter and flour one dozen small Timbal moulds that 
are a little larger at the top than at the bottom. Now roll out a 
pate paste, line the moulds with it, and fill them with flour. Cover 
them with a layer of paste, make a nice border around the top of 
each, and baste them with the yolk of an egg diluted with a few 
drops of water. Now bake them in an oven and, when they are 
cooked, cut out the covers without injuring the borders. Remove 
the flour, and baste the inside and outside of the crusts with the 
yolks of eggs. Then set them in a moderate oven to dry. Garnish 
the crusts with a Macedoine of Vegetables, such as peas, beans, 
asparagus-tops and carrots, each being cooked separately. The 
crusts can be filled with these vegetables, mixed or singly. Add to 
them, before filling, a reduced AUemande or Cream sauce. 

VEGETABLE BREAD. 

No. 1681. — This is made with any kind of vegetable purees. 
When the puree is cooked, it should be made firmer than when 
used as a garniture. The yolks of raw eggs must be added when 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 391 

ilie puree is cold. Purees that are thin will require more eggs than 
ihose that are thick; and a reduced Cream sauce may also be added 
to make them of the required consistency. 

Put the puree in small buttered moulds, poach them, and serve 
■with either Cream, Allemande or Espagnole sauce. 

Note.— After they are cooked and become cold, they may be cut into a variety of shapes, and used 
-as a garniture for soups. They may also be cut in slices one-quarter of an inch thick, then breaded, 
-and fried, to be used as a garniture. 

MACEDOmE OF YEGETABLES, SPANISH STYLE. 

No. 1682. — Put two finely sliced white onions in a saucepan with 
four spoonfuls of sweet oil and fry tliem lightly. Then add four 
sliced bell peppers and, after they have simmered for a few minutes, 
add sis red tomatoes that have been peeled and cut in quarters, and 
one egg plant that has been peeled and cut in small slices. Let 
ihem cook until the moisture is reduced and then add one handful 
of boiled string beans cut in small pieces. Season with salt, pep- 
per and a pinch of red pepper. Now dish them up in a vegetable 
l)order and garnish them with plain boiled okra. 

MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES, MEXICAN STYLE. 

No. 1683. — Prepare the following vegetables, viz.: Two dozen 
artichoke bottoms cut in quarters and an equal quantity each of 
green peas, shelled beans, string beans and asparagus tops, four 
bell -peppers cut in small pieces, and four heads of lettuce that have 
iDcen trimmed and parboiled for two minutes. 

Put one large onion, chopped finely, in a saucepan with a piece 
of butter. Fry it lightly and then add six ounces of finely-chopped 
lean raw ham. Let it cook for ten minutes and then sprinkle over 
it two soup-spoonfuls of flour. Let it cook for a few minutes, 
then add three pints of broth. Stir it well until it boils and 
then add a faggot of parsley garnished with a sprig of thyme 
and one bay leaf. When it boils slowly add the above vege- 
tables, season with salt and pepper, cover the saucepan and 
let them cook until tender. Then remove the faggot and dish 
Tip the vegetables, being careful not to break or mash them. Reduce 
ihe sauce with some essence of truffles, pour it over the vegetables 
^nd garnish with small pieces of toasted bread. 

Note. — This garniture makes a nice effect when dished up in a vegetable border. 
MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 1084. — Wash and scrape two dozen young carrots and cut 
them in quarters. Parboil them for five minutes, then drain them 



392 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

and put tliem in a saucepan with a piece of butter. Toss them over 
the fire a few minutes, then moisten them with broth, and when 
nearly cooked, add one quart of green peas, and a faggot of parsley 
garnished with a sprig of thyme. Season with salt, pepper and a 
pinch of sugar, and cover the pan. When the peas are cooked take 
out the faggot, add a piece of butter and a glassful of cream, and 
toss it well over, oif of the fire, until the butter is melted. Then 
serve it in a vegetable border. 

MACEDOINE OP VEGETABLES, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1685. — Chop one onion finely, put it in a saucepan with a 
piece of butter, and fry it lightly. Now prepare two dozen young- 
red carrots, cut them in halves, and prepare the same quantity of 
mixed beets, parsnips, celeriac, and turnips cut in halves and 
nicely trimmed. Parboil each kind separately for a few minutes, 
drain them and then put them in the saucepan with just enough 
broth to cook them. Season with salt and pepper, and let them 
cook slowly. When done, dish them up carefully. 

Prepare separately, one dozen small white glazed onions, and add 
them to the above. Now reduce the grav}^, add to it a teaspoonful 
of mustard, and pour it over the vegetables. 

LARGE MACEDOINE GARNITURE. 

No. 1686. — This garniture can be made of almost any kinds of 
vegetables that are young and tender. Five or six kinds should be 
used, having them of varied colors if possible. The kinds princi- 
pally used are carrots, artichoke-bottoms, turnips, green peas, 
string beans, lima beans, cucumbers, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, 
brocoli, small onions and mushrooms. The carrots and turnips are 
cut in any kind of fancy shapes, parboiled and then glazed. The 
cucumbers are scalloped and tossed in butter. The string beans are 
cut in diamond shape, about an inch long, and boiled in lightly 
salted water and then immersed in cold water, so they will retain 
their green color. Brussels sprouts and peas must be boiled and 
treated in the same manner. The flower buds only of cauliflowers, 
and brocoli are used and must be kept in small bunches. The 
onions are parboiled and glazed. The mushrooms must be kept 
white and the tops cut in crescent shapes to give them a nice 
appearance. The artichoke-bottoms, when cooked, are cut in 
quarters. These vegetables are cooked separately. Then put them 
together in a flat saucepan, season with salt and pepper and add 
a little Cream sauce. Toss them gently over the fire. 

Note. — This can be served as a vegetable if put in a vegetable border. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 393 

COLD MACEDOINE GARNITUEE. 

No. 1687. — This garniture is composed of the same ingiedients 
as in No. 1686. The carrots and turnips are cut with spoon cutters 
and are cooked in broth and glazed. The green vegetables are 
boiled plain and kept green. The white vegetables are cooked and 
kept white. They must all be cooked separately and then drained 
on a napkin. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. When 
they are dry, dip them in Aspic jelly. When cold trim them nicely. 
Capers and gherkins may be added, and they are then dressed neatly, 
in bunches, alternating the colors, and garnished with Aspic jelly 

SMALL MACEDOINE GARNITURE. 

No.. 1688. — This can be made with all kinds of vegetables. Use 
about five kinds at a time, varying them according to their color. 

Prepare equal quantities of the following vegetables : Green peas, 
string beans, cut in diamond shape, artichoke bottoms cut in small 
pieces, asparagus tops, and flageolet beans. Cook each kind sepa- 
rately, and keep them as green as possible. Also prepare equal 
quantities of carrots and turnips, cut with a spoon cutter, celery, 
flower-buds of cauliflower, and glazed cucumbers. Cook each of 
these separately, and then mis them all together in a saucepan, 
adding some sliced mushrooms. Then add some Cream sauce. 

LARGE GARNITURE, PEASANT STYLE. 

No. 1689. — For this Garniture use young carrots cut in halves and 
nicely trimmed, or if old ones are used, slice them in pieces one 
quarter of an inch thick. Parboil them, and then cook them in 
broth to glaze them. Add some cucumbers cut in scollops and 
glazed, and some broiled sausages cut in pieces about three-quarters 
of an inch long. Dress the Garniture in bunches. 

LARGE GARNITURE, -FARMER STYLE. 

No, 1690. — This Garniture is composed of carrots, potatoes, cab- 
bage, lettuce, and artichokes. The carrots and potatoes are scooped 
out with a spoon-cutter. The carrots are boiled and glazed, while 
the potatoes are boiled and then tossed in butter. The cabbage is 
braised, and the lettuce stuffed. The artichoke bottoms are cut 
in halves. The Garniture is dressed in bunches, with the colors, 
alternating. 

LARGE GARNITURE, JARDINIERE. 

No. 1691. — This Garniture consists of carrots, turnips, turnip- 
rooted celery, cucumbers, small onions, and artichoke bottoms. 



■394 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

«eacli kind being cooked separately and glazed; also the flower buds 
of cauliflower, or brocoli parboiled in lightly salted water; also 
:green peas, string beans and Brussels sprouts, which must be boiled 
in lightly salted water, and then immersed in cold water, so the 
green color will be retained. They must then be tossed in a pan 
over the fire with a piece of butter until thoroughly warmed- 
'Then dress them in bands, alternating the colors. 

SMALL GARNITURE, JARDINIERE. 

No. 1692.^ — ^Tliis Garniture consists of carrots, turnips, string 
beans, flageolet beans, and asparagus tops. The carrots and turnips 
are cut in pieces about one-quarter of an inch long, with a column 
cutter. They are boiled and then cooked in broth and glazed. The 
other vegetables are boiled plain, then drained and mixed together 
in equal quantities. Then add some Allemande or Bspagnole sauce, 
^nd season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar. 

Note. — This Garniture can be Taried according to the season of the vegetables, one kind being 
■substituted for another. 

COLD GARNITURE, JARDINIERE. 

No. 1693. — This Garniture is composed of the flower buds of 
cauliflower, artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, large asparagus tops, 
string-beans, and young carrots. They are all cooked separately, 
and then drained. Season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, 
and then glaze them with Aspic jelly. Dress them in bunches, 
alternating the colors. The tops of the mushrooms should be 
grooved in crescent shapes to give them a nice appearance. 

COLD GARNITURE, FLORAL STYLE. 

No. 1694. — This garniture consists of nice large asparagus tops, 
mushrooms, truffles, artichoke-bottoms, young carrots and tomatoes. 
The asparagus tops are cut in pieces about two inches long and kept 
in bunches. The mushroom heads are cut in crescent shapes. 
The artichoke-bottoms are left whole. The carrots are nicely trim- 
med. All of these vegetables are cooked separately, then seasoned 
mth salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and kept separate. Then drain 
them and mask them with a Chaufroix sauce, changing the color of 
the sauce for each vegetable as it makes a finer effect. Dress them 
in bunches, alternating the colors. 

LARGE GARNITURE, PROVINCIAL STYLE. 

No. 1695. — This garniture consists of stufled tomatoes and stuffed 
green peppers, stuffed artichokes and stuffed mushrooms. Dress 
them and glaze them with a Madeira wine sauce. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 395 

ESSENCE OF VEGETABLES. 

No. 1696. — Put the following in a saucepan: One sliin of beef, 
one of veal, one lien, six carrots, six onions and two turnips. Pour 
two gallons of cold water over tliem and, when it boils, skim it 
"well. Then add two heads of celery, a faggot of parsley garnished 
with two heads of lettuce, two leeks, some whole peppers and a few 
■cloves. Now let it cook slowly for four hours, then strain it through 
a towel and reduce it on the fire to half of its quantity. 

FEYING BATTER FOR VEGETABLES. 

No. 1697. — Put two pounds of sifted flour in an earthen bowl, 
make a hollow in the centre, and add four ounces of melted butter 
and water enough to make a light batter. Mix it well and see that 
no lumps form, having it nice and smooth, and add a little salt. 
This batter should be made one hour before it is used. When ready 
to use it, beat the whites of four eggs into a stiff froth, and add 
them to the batter, mixing the whole gently. 

VEGETABLE SALADS. 

No. 1698. — All vegetables that can be eaten raw or cooked can be 
used in salads. They are seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vine- 
gar, and are generally eaten cold. Various salad dressings and 
lierbs are sometimes used in their preparation. Salads should vary 
according to the season of the vegetables. Care should be taken 
not to bruise any of the vegetables used in a salad. Green salads 
make a refreshing breakfast dish. Endives and dandelion should 
be dressed with a plain dressing and a piece of bread rubbed with 
garlic should alwa3^s be added. The corn-salad or lamb-lettuce 
makes a delicious salad, dressed with pickled beets. A mustard 
dressing should be added to celery, and a few drops of Worcester- 
shire sauce also, to heighten the flavor if desired. Water-cress 
should be served fresh and plain. It is excellent with roasted or 
broiled fowl. Lettuce and cos lettuce are two popular salads. Do 
not dress it until ready to serve. Fine herbs may be added, and 
also a garniture of hard-boiled eggs. Mixed vegetable salads are 
best in spring, when the vegetables are young and tender. In mix- 
ing them see that they harmonize in taste and color. The best 
vegetables for salads are green and white beans, new or pickled 
beets, potatoes, small onions, carrots, artichoke bottoms, asparagus 
tops, green peas, and gherkins. Occasionally some anchovies, 
pickled herrings, capers, olives, truffles, and yolks of eggs may be 
added. Be very careful in seasoning salads. Always season with 



396 HARDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

the oil first, because if too much vinegar is used it will settle in the 
bottom of the salad bowl, instead of mixing with the oil properly. 
Never try to mix the salt with the vinegar. It is best to sprinkle 
it over the salad with the pepper, or it can be mixed with the oil. 
Green salads are used at breakfast or dinner, while the salads that 
are made of fowl or fish are best at a luncheon, supper, or collation. 
Cucumbers and tomatoes can be served with the fish. 

Recipes for making the various kinds of sauces for salads will be 
found in the " Book on Sauces." 

COMPOUND VEGETABLE SALAD. 

No. 1699. — This salad is composed of cooked green peas, string 
beans, cut in pieces one inch long, sliced potatoes and white beans. 
Each kind is dressed separate and seasoned with pepper, salt, oil 
and vinegar. Make a dressing for it of six spoonfuls of oil and 
four of wine vinegar, mixed thoroughly, with the addition of a 
little salt and pepper. Then add a little finely-chopped parsley and 
burnet, and pour it over the salad. Garnish it with some hearts of 
lettuce, hard boiled eggs and fillet of anchovies. 

VEGETABLE SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE. 

No. 1700. — Slice finely equal quantities of cooked artichoke 
bottoms, celery, celeriac, potatoes, carrots and beets, and have the 
pieces about equal in size. Put them in a salad bowl and add some 
shelled beans — white or green. Season with salt, pepper, oil and 
vinegar, mix them gently together, then cover the bowl and set it in 
a cool place to allow the salad to macerate for one hour. When it 
is ready to serve add a little more oil and vinegar, and dress it in a 
salad bowl. Garnish properly. 

MACEDOINE VEGETABLE SALAD. 

No. 1701. — Cook the vegetables as described in Macedoine Gar- 
niture, No. 1688, and cut them in any shapes desired, with fancy 
cutters. When they are cooked, keep each kind separate, drain 
them and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. When ready 
to serve the salad, the vegetables are mixed and nicely dressed in a 
salad bowl with a Ravigote or Mayonnaise sauce. For a large salad 
it is best to dress each vegatable in bunches, alternating them, and, 
when they are nicely decorated, the effect is pleasing. This salad is 
generally composed of the following vegetables in equal quantities, 
but they can be varied, according to the season: Green peas, aspar- 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 397 

agiis-tops, beans, beets, carrots, turnips, articlioke-bottoms, and 
turnip-rooted celery. 

Note.— The carrots and turnips should be parboiled, then immersed in cold water and cooked. 
Use only young and sweetly flavored turnips; if they are old or strongly flavored, they will spoil the 
salad. 

DIPLOMATIC SALAD. 

No. 1702. — Cut the tender parts of two stalks of celery in small 
strips about two inches long. Put them in a bowl, add three or 
four truffles cut in short Juliennes, and season with salt, pepper, 
oil and vinegar. Then cover the bowl and set it in a cool place for 
half an hour. Bub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs through a 
fine sieve, and put them in a bowl that has been rubbed with a clove 
of garlic. Add a teaspoonful of French mustard, work them well 
together with a wooden spoon, dilute it with oil and vinegar, and 
season with salt and pepper. Now drain the celery and truffles and 
put them in a salad bowl. Add the above dressing and a little finely- 
chopped chives and parsley, mix the whole well together, and then 
arrange it properly. 

VEGETABLE SALAD, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 1703. — Prepare some turnips and carrots, and with a column 
cutter the size of a twenty-five cent piece, cut out as many pieces as 
are desired. Cook them in some lightly salted water, and when they 
are cold slice them finely in pieces of even size. Add to them equal 
quantities of boiled potatoes and pickled beets, cut in the same 
manner. Put them in a bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil and vin- 
egar, and add a little Eavigote sauce. Mix them gently together, 
arrange them in a salad bowl, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs 
cut in quarters. 

VEGETABLE SALAD, PARISIAN STYLE. 

No. 1704. — Eub the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs through a fine 
sieve, put them in a bowl, and add one teaspoonful of Anchovy 
paste, and one of French mustard. Mix them well together with a 
wooden spoon while diluting it slowly with oil and vinegar. 

81ice the following vegetables nicely, and put them in a bowl: 
One beet, one celeriac root, two potatoes, and two pickles. Season 
with salt and pepper, and add the above dressing with a little finely- 
cut tarragon and rampion. Mix the whole well together, put 
it in a salad bowl, arrange it properly, and garnish with the whites 
and yolks of hard-boiled eggs cut separately in small pieces, and 
some capers and stuffed olives. 



398 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



VEGETABLE SALAD, RUSSIAN STYLE. 



No. 1705. — Cook some celery, or celeriac, and some potatoes. 
When they are cold, trim them nicely, slice them finely, and put 
them in a bowl with some raw sliced gherkins, a raw sliced apple, 
a few capers, and a few boned Anchovies. Season with pepper, 
salt, oil and vinegar, add a little grated horse-radish and mustard, 
and mix the whole gently together. Set it aside for half an hour, 
and then drain off the moisture and dress it in a salad bowl with a 
Mayonnaise dressing. 

SAUERKRAUT SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 1706. — Parboil half a pound of Sauerkraut for twenty min- 
utes; then drain it in a colander, and pour some cold water over it 
to refresh it. Then drain it in a napkin. Prepare ah equal quantity 
of red cabbage, cut it in fine shreds, and put it in a saucepan with 
a piece of butter. Add three spoonfuls of vinegar, let it cook over 
a brisk fire for five minutes, and then drain it. Cut one large white 
onion in small pieces (chopped). Throw them in boiling water for 
one minute; then immerse them in cold water, and drain them on a 
napkin. 

Now put the sauerkraut, red cabbage and onion into a bowl, add 
a soup-spoonful of grated horse-radish, and a little finely-chopped 
chervil. Season with salt, pepper and vinegar. Mix the whole well 
together, arrange it properly in a salad bowl, and garnish with 
olives and beets. 

VEGETABLE SALAD, CALIFORNIA STYLE, 

No. 1707. — Slice one white sweet onion finely. Peel two cucum- 
bers, cut them in halves lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, and then 
cut them in fine slices. Peel four tomatoes, and cut them in slices 
one-quarter of an inch thick. Put a layer of the onion in a salad 
bowl, then a layer of the tomato, and a layer of cucumbers on top, 
sprinkling each layer with bread crumbs, and seasoning with salt, 
pepper, oil and vinegar. On .top of these three layers put three 
more layers exactly the same as the first three. Cover the bowl, 
and set it in a cool place. Always make this salad two hours before 
serving it. Sprinkle a little finely-chopped parsley and chives over 
it, and serve it as it is. 

MIXED VEGETABLE SALAD, SWEDISH STYLE. 

No. 1708. — Select equal quantities of the following cooked vege- 
tables, and cut them nicely with a fancy cutter : young carrots, 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 399 

beets and potatoes. Put them in a bowl, and add some smoked 
beef-tongue cut in small thin slices, a boned and skinned pickled 
herring cut in small pieces, and one apple, peeled and finely sliced. 
Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and add a little finely- 
chopped parsley and chervil, and a few spoonfuls of mustard dress- 
ing. Mix them well together, arrange tliem properly in a salad_ 
bowl, and garnish with stoned olives and boned anchovies. 

HOW TO PEEPAEE MOULDS WITH ASPIC JELLY, FOR SALADS. 

No. 1709. — The salads following this recipe are different from the 
foregoing, being made in moulds, and dressed on stands or borders, 
or on bread masked with butter for a relief and as a convenience in 
garnishing. They are used principally at balls and banquets, and 
when nicely executed they form a handsome ornament to a table. 
Much depends upon the proficiency of the party making them; and 
special care should be taken to have the Aspic jelly clear, and not 
too firm. In cold weather it need not be as solid as when the 
weather is warm. They may be made in Charlotte or Timbal moulds, 
if desired; but it is best to use the regular Salad moulds that are 
made expressly for this purpose. They contain a false mould, 
which is inserted after the mould is ornamented. The space around 
this false mould is filled with jelly, and allowed to become firm. 
Warm water is then put in the centre of the mould, so it can be 
removed easily, which leaves the center vacant, to be filled with the 
salad. Then smooth off the top evenly, and set the mould aside to 
get cold until ready for use. Then dip the mould in warm water, 
wipe it dry, and then turn it out on the dish it is to be served on. 

The mould is prepared, arranged and decorated as follows : Put 
the mould in a pan containing some cracked ice, and let it get cold. 
Put some cool Aspic jelly in the mould, and turn the mould around 
constantly until it is thinly and evenly coated with the jelly on the 
sides and bottom. (It takes considerable practice to do this per- 
fectly.) Drain your vegetables, and dry them well on a napkin. 
Dip each piece separately in a cool Aspic jelly, and arrange them 
in the bottom and around the sides of the mould in the design that 
you prefer, alternating the colors. When this is done, line it with 
another coating of jelly, set it aside to get cold, and then fill the 
centre with the prepared salad. Truffles, capers, olives and the 
whites of eggs can be used to decorate the mould, instead of vege- 
tables, if desired. 

VEGETABLE SALAD WITH ASPIC JELLY, MACEDOINE. 

No. 1710. — This salad is composed of cooked asparagus tops^. 
carrots, beets, celeriac, cauliflower, green peas and flageolet beans.- 



400 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Cook each kind separately, and when cold season with pepper, salt, 
oil and vinegar. Decorate the mould with Aspic jelly and the above 
vegetables, as in No. 1709. Put the remainder of the vegetables in 
a bowl with a few spoonfuls of Mayonnaise dressing made with 
Aspic jelly. Put the salad in the centre of the mould to fill it. 
Smooth the top, and set the mould aside to get firm. When ready 
to serve, dip the mould in warm water, then turn the salad out on 
the stand on which it is to be served. Garnish the base with aspar- 
agus tops, as in No. 85, and artichoke-bottoms, as in No. 46, with 
some hard boiled eggs cut in halves, and finely-chopped Aspic 
jelly. 

VEGETABLE SALAD WITH ASPIC JELLY, JARDINIERE. 

No. 1711. — Prepare and cook the vegetables' as directed in No. 
1692. Drain them, keep each kind separate, season with pepper, 
salt, oil and vinegar, decorate the mould with Aspic jelly and the 
vegetables, as in No. 1709. Then proceed as in No. 1710, and gar- 
nish with a cold Jardiniere as in No. 1693. 

VEGETABLE SALAD WITH ASPIC JELLY, ITALIAN STYLE. 

No. 1712. — Cut out one dozen potatoes with a round cutter about 
the size of a twenty-five cent piece, and slice them finely. Then 
take two pickled beets and cut and slice them the same way. Put 
them in separate bowls and season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar. 
Prepare the fillet of one or two flounders, scrape oft* the skin, and 
put them in a buttered flat saucepan. Season with salt and pepper 
and add a little white wine. Then cook them, keeping them white, 
and when done put them on a platter and lay them aside to get cold. 
When cold cut them in scallops, add the same quantity of fillet 
of boned Anchovies, and season with pepper, salt, oil and vinegar. 
Decorate the mould with Aspic jelly, capers, olives, anchovies 
and the whites of hard boiled eggs, as in No. 1709. Put the floun- 
ders and anchovies in a bowl and add to them double their quantity 
of potatoes and beets, after they are drained. Also add some 
capers and a few spoonfuls of Mayonnnaise dressing made with 
Aspic jelly. Mix them gently together and then fill the centre of 
the mould. Smooth oft" the top evenly and set it in a cool place 
until ready for use. When dressing it garnish with hard boiled 
eggs and chopped Aspic jelly. 

BEAN SALAD, WITH ASPIC JELLY, GERMAN STYLE. 

No. 1713. — Boil two pounds of dry white beans, keep them whole 
and let them get cold in their broth. Select enough of the most 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 401 

perfect beans to decorate a Charlotte mould, splitting lialf of them 
in halves to give a variety to the decoration. Drain the remaining 
beans in a colander, then put them in a bowl, season with pepper, 
salt, oil and vinegar, and add a little finely-chopped parsley or 
chives. Also add a few spoonfuls of Mayonnaise dressing, made 
with Aspic jelly, mix the whole well together, and then fill up the 
■centre of the mould. Smooth off the top and set it aside to get 
-firm. Finish it the same as the other moulds are finished. 



ArxicIvK ccxxvi. 



ITench VETCH, OR TARE. German 

Vesce. Wicke. 

No. 1714. — This is a leguminous plant having several varieties, 
all of which, in properties and habits, resemble the common pea, 
the seeds being used for food. It is not cultivated to any extent, as 
it is not prolific. It is cultivated like green peas, and is pre- 
pared for the table in the same manner as peas. It is also 
;ground, mixed with corn or rye, and made into bread. 



ArTICIvE ccxxvii. 



WATER-MELON. 

Melon d'Eau. Wasser Melone. 

No. 1715. — The "Water-melon is a tropical fruit that is largely and 
-extensively cultivated in the United States. The fruit is roundish 
or oblong, and in color it is green or of variegated green 
shades. It is much more vigorous than the musk-melon, though 
inferior to the cantaloupe. Its abundant and cooling juice renders 
it very refreshing during summer. It is less liable to injury from 
insects than &nj other variety of melon. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1716. — Water-melons require a rich, though rather sandy 
soil for their best development, and thrive best in warm latitudes, 
26 



402 HARDER's AMERICAN COOKERY. 

growing best in the Southern and Southwestern States. Cultivate- 
exactly the same as for musk-melons, except that the hills should 
be just double the distances apart, namely, eiglit and ten feet. 

GEORGIA RATTLESNAKE. 

' No. 1717. — One of the largest varieties, and stands shipment long 
distances better than any other. It is the sort used at the South 
for northern shipments. It is a beautifully striped variety, of very 
large size, with red flesh of the finest flavor. 

CUBAN QUEEN. 

No. 1718. — One of the largest melons known, often attaining up-^ 
wards of eighty pounds in weight. The vine is vigorous, and the- 
skin striped, light and dark green. The flesh is bright red, solid, 
very crisp and sugary. 

CALIFORNIA OR IMPROVED ODELLA. 

No. 1719. — -One of the best sorts for shipping purposes, as it has 
a tough, thin rind, which enables it to stand an amount of hand- 
ling that would crack open other varieties. The flavor is excellent 
and quite distinct. 

ORANGE. 

No. 1720. — So called from its peculiar rind, which separates from 
the flesh when fully ripe. The flesh is red, tender and sweet. 

CITRON AND CALIFORNIA PIE MELON. 

No. 1721. — These melons are used in making sweetmeats and 
preserves by removing the rind and seeds, cutting the flesh in pieces 
of equal size, then boiling them in syrup which has been flavored 
with ginger, and then proceeding the same as with musk-melons 
in Nos. 922 and 923. They ripen late in season and will keep until 
December. The flesh is white, solid, tough, seedy, very squashy,. 
and unpalatable in its crude state. 

BLACK SPANISH. 

No. 1722. — Their small vines enables them to be grown closer 
than any other sorts. They are round in form, and dark-green in. 
color. The flesh is scarlet, rich and sugary ia flavor. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 403 



SCALY BARK. 



No. 1723. — A very popular variety in the South", which Avill keep 
in good condition after pickling longer than any other sort. The 
vines are large, with coarse foliage, the , fruit large and oblong, and 
the flesh red and very tender. 



MOUNTAIN SWEET. 



No. 1724. — A large, long oval variety. The flesh is scarlet and 
quite solid to the center, very sweet and delicious. 



ICE CREAM. 



No. 1725. — This is medium-sized. The flesh is scarlet and very 



sweet. A good variety for general culture. 



FERRY S PEERLESS. 

No. 1726. — The best melon for general use, particularly in the 
North. The vine is vigorous, hardy and productive. The fruit is 
medium, oval, and finely mottled with light and dark-green, some- 
what in stripes. The rind is thin, and the flesh bright scarlet, solid 
to the centre, crisp, nutty, and sweet. 

EARLY JERSEY. 

No. 1727. — One of the earliest varieties, above the medium size, 
oval round, and light-green in color. The flesh is scarlet, solid, 
finely grained, very sweet and juicy. 

HOW TO SERVE MELONS. 

No. 1728. — Water-melons are served as a relish, or for dessert, 
and should be kept in a cool place for some time before 
serving. Cut a piece from each end, and then cut the melon in a 
zig-zag shape in the centre, which will divide the melon in half, 
and set each half on a dish with a napkin. Place them on the table, 
and when ready to use, cut them in slices. 

Note. — Cut a plug out of the melon, pour a glass of brandy inside, replace the plug, keep the 
melon in a cool place, and occasionally turn it. In twenty-four hours the brandy will be absorbed, 
and the melon ready to serve. This makes a delicious change from the ordinary way of eating 
melons. 



404 HAEDER'S AMERICAN COOKERY. 



ArTICIvK ccxxviii. 



French WHEAT. German 

-FrOTmnt. Weitzai. 

No. 1729. — Wheat is a plant of the genus Triticum, The seed of 
■this plant furnishes a white flour for bread and, next to rice, is the 
.grain most generally used by the human race. The varieties are 
numerous, comprising the Summer and Winter Wheat, the Bearded 
Wheat, the White Wheat and the Bald Wheat. The Summer and 
Winter Wheat furnishes most of the grain that is used for food. 

WINTER WHEAT. 

MICHIGAN RRONZE OR MEDITERRANEAN HYBRID. 

No. 1730. — This is a cross between the old Diehl and the Red 
Mediterranean, having the fine flavoring qualit}^ and bearded head of 
the latter and the close comj)act head of the former. It is a vigor- 
ous grower and is well adapted to light soil. The heads are some- 
what club-shaped, short, but very compact, and are squarely filled 
out at both ends, containing about sixteen breasts of from three to 
four kernels each. The berry is of a bright amber color, of medium 
;size and very handsome. 

VALLEY. 

No. 1731. — This variety originated in Ohio and yields enormously, 
but needs rich ground and good cultivation. The heads are bearded, 
long and loose, and have a peculiarly rough and ragged appearance. 
They contain from sixteen to twenty breasts, having three or four 
kernels each. The berry is long and hard, and of an amber color. 

martin's amber. 

No. 1732,- — A hybrid variety that originated in the eastern part 
■of Pennsylvania. While young, the plants lie spread out over the 
ground, affording a good protection to their own roots. The straw 
is tall and very stiff, standing up better than most varieties. The 
leaves are dark green and quite free from rust. It has a large, 
bald, smooth, well-filled head, containing from sixteen to eighteen 
breasts, and is rather late in ripening. The berry is of a light 
amber color, good size and very plump and handsome. It has a 
very thin hull and makes but little bran; however it yields a large 
return of flour of the very best quality. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 405 



DEMOCRAT. 



No. 1733. — .^ variety that originated in Pennsylvania and is be- 
coming very popular in Canada. It is very early. The heads are 
bearded and compact, with white chaff. The berry is of a very light 
amber color and is superior for milling qualities. 

FULTZ. 

No. 1734. — Although not as showy in the field as the Clawson, 
the Fultz will generally yield quite as much grain — that is of a better 
milling quality. It is much esteemed in Pennsylvania and Ohio, 
and is becoming popular elsewhere. The straw stands up well. 
The leaves are large, of a dark green color and free from rust. It 
has smooth, medium-sized, compact heads, containing from sixteen 
to eighteen breasts of two and three kernels each. The berry is of 
a dull amber color, medium in size and long. 

CLAWSON. 

No. 1735. — X smooth white Wheat, with red chaff. It is a supe- 
rior variety. 

BED MEDITERRANEAN. 

No. 1736. — This is the imported variety fully acclimated. The 
heads are bearded and well filled. It succeeds well in nearly all 
localities, and ripens early. 

WINTER PEARL. 

No. 1737. — The heads are beardless, regular and verj^ handsome, 
about five and a half inches long, with from eighteen to twenty 
breasts of four grains each. The kernels are about the size of the 
Clawson, hard, plump, and of a light amber color. It produces 
abundantly in good wheat fields. 

SPRING WHEAT. 

THE INVINCIBLE. 

No. 1738.— This is a beardless variety of remarkably robust and 
vigorous growth. The straw is strong, stiff, well glazed and healthy. 
The heads are from four to five inches long, compact and well filled. 
The berry is of a light amber color, plump, hard and very heavy. 
It is wonderfully prolific. The grains ripen quickly and evenly. 



406 harder' S AMERICAN COOKERY. 

Care should therefore be taken not to let it get over-ripe before 
harvesting. 

ADAMANT WHEAT. 

No. 1739, — This is one of the hardiest and most flinty varieties 
in cultivation, and is very productive and vigorous. It is a beard- 
less, white-chatf variety, with long narrow heads, closely set with 
medium sized amber-colored kernels, which produce flour of a very 
superior quality. It is one of the most desirable sorts for cultiva- 
tion in the Northwest, Colorado and the Pacific Coast, where hard 
wheat is the favorite sort. 

GREEN MOUNTAIN WHEAT. 

No. 1740. — A beardless variety much cultivated in Vermont. The 
straw is of a light yellow color, very strong, and free from rust. 
The heads average five inches in length, and are somewhat tapering. 
The kernels are white, large, plump, very hardy and productive. 

Note. — For any other Wheat or cereal, see the Articles on Barley, Buckwheat, Corn, etc. 

WHEAT BROTH. 

No. 1741. — Soak six ounces of Wheat in water over night. Then 
drain and parboil it for two minutes, after which drain it again, and 
put it in a saucepan with a quart of veal broth. Let it boil slowly 
for an hour, and season it lightly. 

SOUP — CREAM OF GREEN FARINA WHEAT. 

No. 1742. — Green wheat can be procured in grains or in the same 
way as Farina (Semoule). The latter is preferred, as it cooks much 
quicker. , It is greatly relished by Germans. 

Put four quarts of broth in a saucepan, and when it boils drop in 
slowly one pound and a half of the green- Farina Wheat, stirring it 
gently until it boils. Then set it on the side of the fire to boil 
slowly, and add a faogot of parsley garnished with leeks and green 
onions. Let it cook for one hour, then skim it, take out the faggot, 
and strain the soup through a fine sieve. Then put the soup in a 
saucepan, set it on the fire, and stir it until it boils. Season with 
salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Let it boil sloWly for fifteen 
minutes, then set it on the side of the fire to keep warm. Before 
serving add six ounces of butter, and half a pint of cream, diluted 
with the yolks of eight raw eggs. Mix it well until the butter is 
melted. 



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE. 407 



ARTICT.K ccxxix. 



:French WINGED PEA. German 

Pois Rame. Die Spargelerbse. 

No. 1743. — A hardy creeping annual plant. The pods are three 
inches long, with four longitudinal leafy membranes. The seeds 
are globular, slightly compressed, and yellowish-white in color. 
The ripened seeds are used as a substitute for coffee, and the pods, 
while young and tender, are prepared the same as string beans. 

Sow it in double drills an inch and a half deep and two feet apart, 
the sino;le rows being made twelve inches from each other. 



Article 



WITLOEF. 

Momaine hlatiche. Weisser Endivien 

No. 1744. — This is a distinct and comparativelv new vegetable, 
somewhat resembling chicory in habit. It produces a moderate 
sized and beautiful white heart, similar in shape to a cos lettuce, 
and when prepared as the latter is, or as a salad, it will be found a 
valuable acquisition to the winter vegetables. 



ArtiCIvH ccxxxi. 



WOOD SORREL. 

Oseille Oxalide. Sourklee. 

No. 1745. — Wood sorrel is a hardy perennial plant, growing 
naturally in woods, in cool and shaded situations. The leaves are 
radical, inversely heart-shaped, and produce three together at the 
extremity of quite a long stem. The leaves possess a pleasant acid 
taste and are mixed with salads, to which they impart an agreeably 
refreshing flavor. The plant is considered one of the most valuable 
of all vegetables that are cultivated for their acid properties. 



408 haeder's ameeican cookery. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1746. — It may be propagated either by seeds or by dividingp 
the roots. The soil should be rich and moist. Sow it in April, in 
shallow drills, twelve inches apart. 



ArXICLK ccxxxii 



French WORMWOOD. German 

Artnoise ou Absinthe. Vermouth,. 

No. 1747. — A hardy perennial, shrubby plant, three feet in 
height. The leaves are deeply cut or divided, pale-green above, 
and hoary beneath. The leaves when bruised have a strong, some- 
what pungent yet aromatic odor, and are proverbial for their intense 
bitterness. 

An infusion of the leaves and tops of the common Wormwood is 
used as a vermifuge tonic and stomachic. The leaves are also beUe- 
ticial to poultry. 

ROMAN WORMWOOD. 

No. 1748. — Resembles the common Wormwood, but the leaves are 
smaller and more finely cut; pale-green above and hoary on the 
under surface. It is preferied to the common for medicinal pur- 
poses, as the taste is more agreeable and its odor less pungent. 

SEA WORMWOOD. 

No. 1749. — The leaves are numerous, long, narrow and hoary, and 
bitter to the taste. When bruised they emit a strong, pleasant 
aromatic flavor. 

CULTURE. 

No. 1750. — They develop best in warm, dry, light soil. They are 
propagated the same as other hardy shrubs. If sown by seeds, 
sow them in April in drills. Transplant the seedlings in rows, two 
feet apart, and a foot between the seedlings. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



ALEXANDER 

Culture 

Perfoliate . . . 

AMBROSIA... 



ANGELICA 

Culture 

Syrup 

Preserved or Candied. 



NO. 

1 

2 
3 



ANISE 9 

Culture 12 

Anisette Cordial 10 

Pumpernickel 11 

AROMATIC, Medicinal and Pot Herbs 13 

Culture 14 

Varieties 15 



ALLSPICE, or Aromatic Nigelle. 
Culture , .. 



ARTICHOKE 

Culture 

Green Large Globe 

How to Prepare for Cooking 

With HoUandaise Sauce 

With Butter Sauce 

With Mayonnaise or Viniagrette . 

With Oil or Poivrade Sauce 

With Oil and Vinegar Sauce 

Barigoule 

Barigoule 

Italian Style 

Fried, Italian Style 

Lyonnaise 

Stuffed, Bordelaise 

Stuffed, American Style 

Tossed (saute) in Butter 

Puree for Garniture 

Croquettes 

Soup, Puree 

Soup, Cream 

Pickled 

How to Cook Pickled Artichokes. 

Preserved Whole 

Preserved in Quarters 

Puree Preserved 

Jerusalem 



16 
17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 

54 

56 

57 



ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS 

How to Prepare 

Stuffed, Clara Louise Kellogg Style. 

Stuffed, Pioneer Style 

Stuffed, Italian Style 

Fricassee 

Fried, Villeroi S yle 

Spanish Style 

Macedoine . 

Provengale 

With Fme Herbs 

Stewed for Garniture 

For large Cold Garniture 

Preserved in Cans 



NO 

35- 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

55 



ASPARAGUS 65 

Culture 66 

Colossal 67 

Giant 68 - 

Crossbred 69 

Small Defiance 70 

How to Prepare for Cooking. 71 

With Butter Sauce 72 

With HoUandaise Sauce 73 

Piemoutaise 74 

Pompadour 75 

Spanish Style 76 

With Oil and Vinegar 77 

Puree for Garniture 84 

Soup — Puree, Conde 89 

Puree, Eoyal 90 

" Puree, St. George 91 

' ' Cream, Countess 92 

Preserved in Salt 93 

Preserved in Cans ..... 94 

Syrup 96 

ASPARAGUS TOPS 78 

How to Prepare 78 

With Sauce 79 

Colbert ^0 

With Truffles, Imperial 81 

With Mutton Gravy 82 

For Garniture 83 

For Large, Cold Garniture 85 

Salad, Plain 86 

Salad, with Shrimps 87' 



410 



GENERAL INDEX. 



ASPARAGUS TOPS -Continued. 

Salad, with Truffles, Koyiil 88 

Preserved 93 

ASPARAGUS BEAN 97 

BALLS 1188 

Potatoes, American style I18S 

Margot style 1189 

(Quenelles) of tJoru Me.il 715 

" of Potatoes 1204 

" of Semoule, Vill-roi. .. 1405 
Vegetables, Turkish style 1672 

BALM 98 

Culture 99 

BALM-MINT, 100 

BARLEY 101 

Common 102 

Mansury 103 

Naked, or Hulluess 101 

Soup Cream, Neilson style 105 

Soup Cream, Marie Louise style. . 106 

Soup Cream, Farr igut style 107 

Broth, for Invalids 108 

Water, for Invalids 109 

Water, for Gargling l ; i 

Cream, for Invalids HO 

BASIL SWEET 112 

Culture 113 

BATTER for Frying Vegetables 1697 

BAY, OR LAUREL LEAVES 

( Common ) 114 

" ' (Larust ue) 115 

BEANS 116 

Culture of the Dwarf or Bush Bean 117 

Early Feegee 118 

Early Bed Valentine 119 

White Valentine 120 

Gallega, or Large Eefugee 121 

Early Mohawk 122 

Black Wax or Butter 123 

White Wax 124 

Ivory Pot Wax 125 

Canadian Wonder 126 

Golden Eefugee 127 

Crystal White Wax l^^S 

Golden Wax 129 

Befugee 130 

Large White Kidney 131 

White Marrowfat 132 

I>warf Soisson 133 

Pole Eunniug 134 

Large Wliite Lima 135 

Small Lima or Sieva 136 



BEANS— Continued. 

Dreer's Improved Lima 137 

Dutch Case Knife 138 

Speckled Cranberry 139 

Scarlet Knnner 140 

Giant Wax 141 

German Wax Pole ... 142 

English or Broad 143 

Early Mazagan 144 

Broad Windsor 145 

Sword Long Pod 146 

How to Prepare String Beans for 

Cooking 147 

(String) English Style 148 

Maiire d' Hotel 149 

With Fine Herbs 150 

" Lyonnaise 151 

Poulette 152 

" Bre tonne 153 

" German Style 154 

" With Cr^atn 155 

Country Style 156 

Preserved in Salt 157 

" " " Brine 158 

" C(ns 159 

" Salted, How to Prepare for 

Cooking 160 

" Sdad 161 

" German Style 162 

" For Garniture 163 

( Wax ) Maitre d' Hotel 164 

(White, or Kidney), With Puree of 

Onion, S lubise 165 

Country Style 166 

White or Kidney Soup Puee, Newton 

Style 198 

(Dry White) Maitre dHot 1 173 

" " German Style. ..... . 174 

'■ " With Cream Sauce. . . 175 

" " Bretonne 176 

Eobert 177 

With Eicon 178 

'• Marrow 179 

Salad 181 

" " For Garniture 182 

Puree— White 183 

" " " Brown 184 

With Celery. 185 
" " Soup Puree, Pioneer 

Style... 201 
" St.George 202 
Green Flageolet, Maitre d' Hotel. . . 167 
German Style.... 168 
With String Beans 169 
" " Puree for Garni- 
ture 171 



GENERAL INDEX. 



411 



BEANS — Continued. 

Green Flageolet, Preserved in Cans 172 
" " Soup, Puree, St. 

Germain. ..... 196 

" '• Soup, Puree, Sou- 

bise 197 

■' " Soup, Creim, Le- 

land Style 200 

Eed, Bourguignonne 186 

" Cardinal, for Fast Days 187 

" Donohoe Style, for Fast Days 188 

Dry Red, Soup, Puree, Conde 203 

Black, With Butter 189 

" Soup Puree, Faubonne 199 

Soup, Puree for Fast Days 204 

For Garniture 170 

Broad 190 

" With Cream, Poulette 191 

Lima 192 

' • With Butter Sauce 193 

" French Style 194 

' ' ilacedoine 19') 

Baked in Pots 180 

Notes 205 

BEETS ... 206 

Culture 207 

Egyptian Turnip 208 

Bastiau's Blood Turnip 209 

Deming's Blood 210 

Early Flat Bassano 211 

LongSmo .th Blood Eed 212 

Early Yellow 213 

Pine Apple 214 

Brazilian Variegated 215 

Swiss Chard or Sea Kale 216 

How to Prepare for Cooking 217 

Boiled Beets Stewed 218 

Stewed, Han )verain Style 219 

' ' with Cr.' am Sauce 220 

" Butter " 221 

St Ignatius 222 

Roasted . 223 

For G.irniture 221 

Fritters, Chartreusse 225 

Sugar 226 

Juice for Soiips .... 227 

Salad with Vegetables 228 

Pickled 229 

" for Relishes, German Style. 230 
" " " American " . 231 

BENE 232 

Culture 233 

Bi-formed Leaved 234 

Oval Leaved ... 235 

Tri-fide Leaved 236 



BOLETUS (Esculent) 237 

BORAGE 238 

Culture 239 

BORDERS— Potatoes 1207 

Rice 1285 

Vegetables 1674 

BREAD OF VEGETABLES 1681 

BRIAR LEAVES 240 

BROCOLI ...241 

Culture .■ 242 

White Cape 243 

Purple Cape 244 

Italian Style 245 

With HoUandaise Sauce 246 

For Garniture 247 

Soup Cream 248 

BROOKLINE OR SPEEDWELL.. 249 

BROTH— Barley for Invalids. ... 108 

Celery 473 

Dande ion '. 651 

Pectoral with Turnijjs 1651 

Wheat 1741 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 250 

Culture 251 

Tall French 252 

Dwarf Improved 253 

How to Prepare for Cooking 254 

With Fine Herbs 255 

With Sauce 256 

Spanish Style 257 

For Garniture 258 

with Broiled Meats. 259 
Puree for Garniture 280 

BUCK'S-HORN OR COCK'S-HEAD 

PLANTAIN 261 

Culture 262 

BUCKWHEAT 263 

Common 264 

Silver Hulled 265 

Cakes with Yeast 266 

" " Baking Powder 267 

Baking of Cakes 268 

BUGLOSS 269 

Culture 270 

BURNET 271 

Culture 272 

BUTTER-Garlic 730 

Horse-radish 761 

CABBAGE 273 

Culture 274 

E rly Jersey Wakefield . . 275 

Early Etampes 276 



412 



GENERAL INDEX. 



CABBAGE— Continued. 

Early York 277 

" Large York 278 

" Sugar Loaf 279 

Little Dixie 280 

Henderson's Early Summer 281 

Early Flat Dutch 282 

" Dwarf Flat Dutch 283 

' ' Winningstadt 284 

• • Bleichfield Giant 285 

Filder Kraut 286 

Drumhead Short Stem 287 

Early Large Schweinfurt 288 

Imperial French Ox Heart 289 

Eed Dutch, for Pickling 290 

Fine Blood Eed 291 

Marblehead 292 

Late Flat Dutch ••• 293 

Large Drumhead. 294 

Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead. 295 

Green Glazed 296 

Early Dwarf Ulm Savoy 297 

Green Globe Savoy 298 

American Savoy 299 

Drumhead Savoy 300 

Boiled 301 

With Potatoes, Flamande 302 

Braised, French Style 303 

German Style 304 

With Bac >n, Family Style 305 

Stuffed 3:)6 

" Hunter's Style 307 

Bismarck Style 308 

With Cream 309 

Stewed, Spanish Style 310 

With Quails or Partridges 311 

Hot Slaw 312 

Cold Slaw 313 

Salad , 314 

Salad, Boston Style 315 

Salad, with Cream, American Style 316 

For Garniture 321 

Soup 322 

Soup, Served with Broth, Garbure 323 

Pickled 324 

Eed Cabbage Salad 317 

Eed Cabb ige, German Style 318 

Eed Cabbage, HoUandaise Style. . . 319 

Eed Cabbage, Valencienne Style. .. 320 

Eed Cabbage, Pickled, English 325 

Sauer Kraut 326 

Sauer Kraut, How to Make 327 

Sauer Kraut, How to Prepare for 

Cooking 328 

Sauer Kraut, German Style 329 

Sauer Kraut, French Style 330 



CABBAGE— Continued. 

Sauer Kraut, Bavarian Style 331 

Sauer Kraut, Flemish Style 332 

Sauer Kraut, Baked, Dufour. .... 333 
Sauer Kraut, Baked, with Fillet of 

Soles 334 

Sauer Kraut, with Partridges or 

Quails 335 

CAKES 

Batter 595 

Buckwheat, with Yeast 266 

Buckwheat, with Baking Powder. . 267 
How to Bake Buckwheat Cakes . . . 268 

Carolina, with Sabiyon Sauce 1513 

Corn 594 

Flannel 596 

Flap Jacks, or Trimmed Lace 597 

Graham Griddle 739 

Green Corn 576 

Corn Griddle 594 

Potato 1201 

Eice Glazed 1327 

Eice Souffle 1326 

CALABASH, OR COMMON 

GOURDS 336 

CALAMINT 337 

CANDIED ANGELICA 8 

CANTALOUPE, or Persian Melons. 338 

Germek 339 

Geree 340 

Daree 341 

Green Hoosaine 342 

Green Valencia 343 

Ispahan . . . . , 344 

Melon of Keising 345 

Melon of Seen 346 

How to Serve 347 

Preserved in Cans 348 

Preserved in Syrup 349 

CAPERS 350 

Pickled in Vinegar 351 

Sauce 352 

CAPILLAEY, OR VENUS HAIR.. 353 

Syrup 354 

CARAWAY 355 

Culture 356 

CARDOON 357 

Culture 358 

Large Spanish 359 

The Ordinary 360 

Artichoke-leaved. 361 

Large Tours Solid 362 

With Marrow 363 

With Parmesan Cheese 364 



GENEEAL INDEX. 



413 



CARDOON— Continued. 

With Cream Sauce 365 

With Essence of Ham 366 

Fricassee 367 

For Garniture 368 

Puree 369 

SaLid, Spanish Style 370 

Preserved 371 

Puree Preserved 372 

CARROT 373 

Culture 374 

Early French Forcing 375 

Early Scarlet Ho n 376 

Half Long Eed ( Stunted Eoots) ... 377 
Half Long Ked Scarlet (Pointed 

Eoots) 378 

Early Half Long Scarlet Caren ton. 379 

Long Orange , 380 

Danvers 381 

Altringham 382 

Long White Belgian 383 

Yellow Belgian 384 

How to Prepare for Cooking 385 

Maitre d'Hotel 386 

Stewed, German Style 387 

With Butter Sauce 388 

With Green Peas, Strasbourgeoise. 389 

Stewed, Indian Siyle 390 

Stewed, for Garniture 391 

For large Garniture Flament 392 

For small Garniture, Olive-shaped. 393 

Garniture, Nivernaise 394 

Puree for Garniture 395 

Soup Puree, Aurore 396 

" " Stanley 397 

German Style 398 

Crecy 399 

" " " for Fast days... 4U0 

Pickled 401 

Preserved for Garniture 402 

Puree Preserved for Soaps or Gar- 
niture - 403 

CASSEROLES of Eice 1318 

CATERPILLAR 404 

Culture 405 

CATNIP 406 

Culture 407 

CATSUP 408 

Elderberry 692 

Mushrooms 896 

Tomato No. 1 15b9 

No. 2 1590 

No. 3 1591 

" Epicurean 1592 



NO. 

CAULIFLOWER 409 

Culture 410 

Early Snowball 411 

" Dwarf Erfurt 412 

" Paris 413 

Nonpareil 414 

Early London 415 

Lenormand Short- stemmed 416 

Walcheren 417 

Algiers 418 

Weith's Autumn Giant 419 

How to Prepai'e for Cooking. 420 

With Butter Sauce 421 

Hollandaise 422 

Baked, au Gratin 423 

Fried, Villeroi 424 

Fried in Batter 425 

Italian Style 426 

For Garniture 427 

Puree for Garniture 428 

Salad, 429 

Soup — Cream 430 

Soup Puree 431 

Pickled 432 

Preserved in Brine 433 

CELERIAC, or Turnip Eooted Celery 434 

Culture 435 

Large Erfurt 436 

Apple Shaped 437 

Fried, Villeroi 438 

Puree for Garniture 439 

Stewed, Sanish Style 440 

Stewed with AUemande or Cream 

Sauce 441 

Use of Celeriac Tops 442 

With Gravy (Half-Glaze) 443 

For Soups 444 

Preserved 445 

Pickled 446 

Preserved in Brine 447 

CELERY 448 

Culture 449 

Dwarf White 450 

Sandringham Dwarf White 451 

Giant White Solid 452 

White Walnut 453 

Half Dwarf 454 

Golden Dwarf 455 

London Eed 456 

Major Clark Pink 457* 

Hood's Dwarf Eed 458 

How to Prepare for General Use. . . 459 

Plain for Eeh-hes 460 

Dressed ' 461 

With Gravy (Half-Glaze) 462 



414 



GENERAL INDEX. 



CELERY— Continued. 

Ste A ed, Spanish Style 463 

Stewed with AUemande Sauce. . . 4(54 

Stewed with Cream Sauce 465 

Sauce 466 

Fried Villeroi 467 

With Parmesan Cheese 468 

For Garniture 469 

Puree For Garniture 470 

With White or Brown Sauce 471 

Salad 472 

Broth 473 

Soup, Pu ee, Spanish Style 474 

Cream Soup 475 

Puree. Preserved 476 

Preserved 4 < 7 

Preserved in Brine • 478 

Vinegar 479 

Flavor 480 



CENTAURY. 



481 

CEPES 897 

Bordelaise 897 

Provincial 898 

Polonaise 899 

With Cream 900 

Preserved 90 ^ 

CHAMOMILE 482 

Culture 483 

CHAPON, FOR SALAD DRESS- 
ING 731 

CHARTREUSSE • 1675 

CHERVIL 484 

Culture 485 

Tuberous-Kooted 486 

CHESTNUT 487 

Soup, Puree 488 

Cream, Hunter's Style 489 

Garbure, Polignac 490 

Puree 491 

Glazed 492 

CHICK OR EGYPTIAN PEA 493 

Culture 494 

Eed 495 

White 496 

Yellow 497 

CHICKLING WETCH, OR SPAN- 
ISH LENTIL 498 

CHICCORY, OR SUCCORY 499 

Culture 500 

CHINESE SPINACH.... 501 

CHINESE YAM, OR POTATO... 502 

CHOCA , . 519 



NO.. 

CHOCOLATE, PLAIN 520 

Pot 521 

With Eggs or Cream 522 

Adulterated 523 

CHIVES, OR WELSH ONION... 503 
Common, or Eed Welsh Onion . . 504 

White Welsh Onion 505 

CHUFA, OR EARTH NUT 508 

Culture 509 

CICELY SWEET, OR SWEET 

SCENTED CHERVIL 510 

CINNAMON 511 

CLARY 512 

CLAVARIA 513 

CLOVES 514 

COCOA . . 515 

Ground 516 

Shell 517 

Broma 518 

Choca 519 

Plain Chocolate 520 

Pot Chocolate 521 

Chocolate, with Eggs or Cream. . . . 522 
Adulterated Chocolate 523 

COFFEE 524 

Eematks on Mixing 525 

For Family Use 526 

Boiled 527 

Boiled 528 

German Style 529 

Essence, for Cream 530 

Ice 531 

COLT'S-FOOT, Common 532 

Culture 533 

COLORS for Culinary Purposes,Green 1461 
For Culinary Purposes, Yellow. . . .1353 

COMMON CHIVES 506 

Culture. 507 

CORIANDER 534 

Culture 535 

CORN 542 

Culture 543 

Early Marblehead 544 

Dolly Button 545 

Extra Early Adams 546 

Early Minnesota 547 

Early Eed Narragansett 548 

Crosby's Extra Early 549 

Eussell's Early Prolific Sugar 550 

Early Sweet Sugar 551 

Moore's Eai'ly Concord Sweet 552 

Black Mexican 553 



GENEEAL INDEX. 



415 



CORN— Continued. 

Excelsior 554 

Amber Cream 555 

Triumph 556 

Egyptian Sweet 557 

Mammoth Sweet . 558 

Stowell's Evergreen Sweet 559 

Burlington Early Adams 560 

Early Canada 561 

Lackawaxen 562 

Early White Flint 563 

Large Eed Blazed 564 

Early Golden Dent 565 

Chester County Mammoth 566 

Blunt's Prolific 567 

Ki'-e Corn for Parching 568 

Boiled Green 569 

With Milk or Cream 570 

Stewed Green 571 

With Beans 572 

Succotash 573 

With Tomatops 574 

Fritters. 575 

Cakfs 576 

How to Prepare Canned Corn 577 

Boasted 578 

Soup — Cream 579 

Chowder 580 

Hulled 581 

Boiled Coarse Hominy 582 

Fine Hominy 583 

Fried Hominy 584 

Hominy Croquettes 585 

Baked Hominy 586 

Corn Meal 587 

Boiled Mush 588 

Fried Mush 589 

Corn Meal Gruel 590 

Polainta of Corn Meal with Cheese. 591 

With Game 592 

Crusts of Polainta, Miianaise Style. 593 

Griddle Cakes 594 

Batter Cakes 595 

Flannel Cakes 596 

Flap Jacks or Trimmed Lace 597 

Corn Search 598 

CORN POPPY, or Coquelicot 536 

CORN SALAD, or Lamb Lettuce.... 537 

CuUure 538 

Salad 539 

With Beets 540 

With Celery 541 

COUCH GRASS 599 



COS LETTUCE, OR ROMAINE 



600 



NO. 

COSTMARY, OR ALECOST 601 

Culture 602 

CRANBERRY 603 

Culture 604 

Sauce 605 

CREAM. Barley for Invalids 110 

Oat Meal 954 

Spinach 1462 

Sweet Potatoes for Pies 1512 

CRESS. OR PEPPER GRASS 606 

Culture 607 

CRESS, GARDEN 608 

CRESS, WATER 609 

Culture 610 

Its Use 611 

CROQUETTES, Artichokes 48 

Hominy 585 

Potatoes 1185 

Bice 1322 

Rice, Creo'e Style 1325 

CRUSTS. Morels 863 

Mushrooms 890 

Potatoes! 1208 

Polainta, Miianaise Style 593 

Polainta, Italian Style 712 

Eice, small .1313 

" " Victoria Style 1314 

" With Eggs and Cheese. 1315 

" " " Curried Lobster. .1316 

" " Puree of Chicken. 1317 

Semoule, small, Palermitaine 1404 

Vegetables, Macedoine Style 1608 

CUCUMBER..., , 612 

Culture 613 

Early White Spine 614 

Extra Large White Spine 615 

Boston Pickling 616 

Early Frame . 617 

Early Cluster 618 

Green Prolific 619 

Early Russian 620 

Long Green 621 

English Frame or Forcing 6-2 

With Cream Sauce 623 

Poulette 624 

Luchesse 625 

Spanish Style 626 

Stuffed, Spanish Style 627 

Stuffed, Italian Style 6-28 

Stuffed, Turkish Style 629 

Scalloped for Garniture 630 

" " " with Sauce 631 
Puree 632 , 



416 



GENERAL INDEX. 



CUCUMBER— Continued. 

Soup — Cream, Queen Style 633 

Soup Puree, Patfci Style 634 

With Soup Puree of Chicken 635 

For Eelish 636 

Salad, French Style 637 

Spanish " 638 

" German " 639 

Preserved 640 

Pickled 641 

Pickled (Pickles or Gherkins) 642 

" Mixed Pickles 643 

'CUCKOO-FLOWER CRESS 644 

CUMIN 645 

CURRY 646 

CUSTARD— Coffee in Cups 1531 

For Souj) Garniture, Langtry Style. 1301 

Onion, for Soup Garniture 1014 

Tea in Cups 1531 

DANDELION 647 

Culture 6i8 

Large Leaved 649 

Salad 650 

Broth 651 

:DILL 652 

Culture 653 

DIET-DRINKS (Tisanes) 654 

Decoction of Malt 655 

Herb Juice 656 

Iceland Moss or Lichen 657 

Coltsfoot 658 

Anti-bilious. 659 

Emollient ... 660 

Pectoral 661 

Apozems 662 

" Diuretic or Aperient 663 

' ' Vermifuge 664 

" Anti-Scorbutic .... 665 

" Astringent 666 

Stomachic 667 

" Purgative 668 

" German or White Decoc- 
tion 669 



DUXELLE 



744 



EGG-PLANT 670 

Culture 671 

Early long Purple 672 

Black Pekin 673 

Large New York Purple . . 674 

Improved Large Purple 675 

Guadaloupe Striped 676 

Ornamental Varieties 677 

. Fried, Freuch Style 678 



EGG-PLANT— Continued. 

Breaded and Fried, American Style 679 

Lyonnaise 680 

With Cheese, Neapolitan Style .... 681 

With Cream and Cheese 682 

Puree 683 

Stuffed, American Style 684 

" Brazilian " 685 

Turkish " 686 

" Parisian " 687 

For Garniture 688 

Salad 689 

EGYPTIAN CUCUMBER 690 

ELDERBERRIES.... 691 

Catsup 692 

ELECAMPANE 693 

ENDIVE OR CHICOREE 694 

Culture 695 

French Moss 696 

Broad Leaved Batavian 697 

Green Curled 698 

With Cream Sauce 699 

German Style 700 

With Poacned Eggs 701 

With Veal Gravy 702 

Puree 703 

Salad, French Style 704 

'• German " 705 

" American" 706 

Soup — Cream with Poached Eggs.. 707 

Preserved in Cans 708 

ESSENCE 530 

Coffee, for Creams 530 

Mushroom 894 

Shallots 1411 

Truffles 1606 

Vegetables 724 

1696 



FAGGOT OF PARSLEY 



1039 



FARINA 709 

Polainta of Corn Meal Piemontaise 710 
" " "on Skivers. 711 

Crusts (Polainta) of Corn Meal, 

Italian Style 712 

Crusts, or Stands of Corn Meal, for 

Hot or Cold Side Dishes 713 

Tartlets of Corn Meal 714 

Balls, or Quenelles of Corn Meal. . . 715 
Fried Farina (Polainta) of Corn 

Meal, Eamequin 716 

Polainta for Garnitures 717 

Gruel 718 



FECULA. 



719 



GENERAL INDEX. 



417 



FENNEL (SWEET) 720 

Culture 721 

Stewed ...722 

FINE HERBS 742 

Cooked 742 

Eaw 743 

lu Sauce 745 

FLAVORS— ESSENCES AND EX- 
TRACTS 723 

Essence of Vegetables 724 

Flavor of Celery 480 

" Vanilla 1669 

FLOUR 725 

Eepere 726 

FRICASEE 

Artichoke Bottoms 39 

Cardoons 367 

Lentils 795 

FRIED Artichokes, Italian Style 30 

" Bottoms, Villeroi. 40 

Cauliflower, Villeroi 424 

In Batter 425 

Celeriac, Villeroi 438 

Celery, Villeroi 467 

Egg Plant, French Style 678 

" " Breaded, American Style 679 

Farina, Eamequin 716 

Hominy 584 

Hops 752 

Lettuce, Stuffed 820 

Morels 862 

Mushrooms 589 

Onions 991 

Parsnips 1050 

Potatoes, Saratoga Style 1192 

" Long Branch Style 1193 

French Style ...1194 

' ' Julienne Style 1195 

Parisian Style 1196 

Puffed (Souffle) 1199 

Salsify, in Batter 1374 

" Villeroi 1375 

" in Butter. 1376 

Squash, Stuffed, American Style.. .1491 

" Boston Style ..1492 

Sweet Potatoes 1509 

Puffed (Souffle'). ..1510 
Tomatoes 1571 

FRITTERS 

Beets, Chartreusse 225 

Carolina Cake, Nellie Grant Stvle..l514 

Corn 575 

Parsnip , 1052 

27 



FRITTERS— Continued. 

Bice 1325 

" (Subrics) 1323 

Spinach ( Subrics) 1460 

Sweet Potatoes 1511 

GARBURE 727 

GARNITURES 

Artichoke Bottoms, Stewed 45 

" " Large Cold... 46 

Asparagus Tops 83 

" " Large Cold 85 

Beans, Dry White 182 

String 163 

Beets 224 

Brocoli 247 

Brussel's Sprouts 258 

" " for Broiled Meats 259 

Cabbage 321 

Cardoons 368 

Carrots Stewed for 391 

" Flamant, Large 392 

" Olive-shaped, Small 393 

" Nivernaise 394 

Cauliflower 427 

Celery 469 

Cucumbers, Scolloped 630 

' ' with Sauce 631 

Egg Plant 688 

Farina Polaiuta 717 

Farmer's Style, Large 1690 

Floral Style, Large 1694 

Jardiniere, Large 1691 

Small.. 1692 

" Cold 1693 

Jerusalem Artichokes 63 

Lettuce 822 

Macedoine, Large 1686 

Small 1688 

Cold 1687 

Morels 864 

Mushrooms 889 

Okra 964 

Onions 1001 

" Small Baked 1002 

Onion Custard for Soups 1014 

Parsley, Fried 1041 

" Plain 1042 

Peas, Green 1087 

Peasant Style, Large 1689 

Peppers, Green 1118 

Potatoes 1202 

ProTincial, Large 1695 

Eadishes. 1256 

Eice 1300 

' * Custard for Soup. , . . . 1301 



418 



GENERAL INDEX. 



NO. 

GARNITURES— Continued. 

Spinach .... 1459 

Tomatoes 1581 

Truffles 1607 

Cold 1608 

Turnips, Brown 1641 

" White 1642 

Turnip Cabbage 1661 

GARLIC 728 

Culture 729 

Butter or Gascony Butter. , 730 

Chapon for Salad Dressing 731 

Puree 732 

GHERKIN 733 

GINGER 734 

©LOBE CUCUMBER 735 

GOOSE-FOOT, or White Quinoa... 736 

Culture 737 

GRAHAM FLOUR 738 

Griddle Cakes 739 

GRUEL 

Corn Meal 590 

Farina 718 

Oat Meal 951 

" Scotch 952 

Oats 951 

Eiee 1312 

Sago 1363 

HERBS .......,„ 740 

Culture „ . _ 741 

Cooked 742 

Eaw. . ; 743 

Duxelle 744 

Sauce 745 

Dry 746 

HOLLYHOCK, OR ROSE MAL- 
LOW. 747 

HOOSUNG OR OOSUNG 748 

HOPS 749 

Boiled with Sauce 750 

Stewed " " 751 

Fried 752 

HOARHOUND 753 

Culture 754 

HORSE-RADISH 755 

Culture 756 

For Eelish 757 

Sauce 758 

" with Apples 759 

" " Cream , 760 

Butter 761 

Vinegar . 762 



HYSSOP 


NO., 

763 


Culture 


764 


INDIAN STAR ANISE SEED.... 
INFUSION FOR TURTLE SOUP. 
JAPAN PEA 


765 

1411 

76f> 


Culture 


767 


JASMINE 


768 


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE 

Culture 


57 

n8 


With Butter Sauce 

Italian Style 

Craoovienne 


59 
(0 
61 


Puree for Garniture 

For Garniture 

Soup Puree, Palestine 


62 
63 

64 


JUNIPER 


769 


KALE OR BORECOLE 

Culture 


770 
771 


Tall Green Curled Scotch 

German Dwarf Purple 

" " Green 

Dwarf Erfurt 

Cottagers 


772 
775 
774 
775 
776 


With Cream 


777 


For Greens, with Salt Pork or Bacon 
LAVENDER 


778 
779 


LEEK 


7S0 


Culture. 


781 


London Flag. 

Little Montague 

Proliferous 


782 
783 
784 


Yellow Poiton 


785 


Large Rouen 

Soup, Puree Viennoise 


786 
787 



LENTIL OR LENS 788 

Culture 789 

Common 790 

Green 791 

Large 792 

Small 793 

Maitre d' Hotel 794 

Fricassee 795 

Puree, for Garnitures, Conde 796 

Soup, Puree 797 

" Conde 798 

" Hunter's Style 799 

LETTUCE 800 

Culture 801 

Early Tennis Ball 802 

Black seeded Simpson 803 

Simpson Early Curled 804 

Early Boston Curled 805 

' ' Prize Head (Ferry's) 80& 



GENERAL INDEX. 



419 



NO. 

LETTUCE— Continued. 

Hauson 807 

Deacon 808 

Early Curled Silesia 809 

Frankfort Head 810 

Large Drumhead 811 

Philadelphia Butter 812 

Brown Dutch • 813 

Green Fringed 814 

White Paris Cos 815 

Salamander 816 

Braised, Spanish Style 817 

German Style 818 

Stuffed 819 

" and Fried 820 

With Cream 821 

" Gravy 822 

For Garniture 823 

Salads .824 

With Consomme, Garbure 825 

. Water for Invalids 826 

Preserved Whole 827 

in Cans 828 

When Used in Vegetable Soups. . . 829 

LICORICE 830 

Culture 831 

LIMA BEANS 832 

Culture 833 

Green 834 

Mottled 835 

LIME OR LINDEN TREE 836 

LOVAGE. 837 

Culture 838 

LUPINE 839 

MACE 840 

MACEDOINE Garniture, Large 1686 

Garniture, Small 1688 

Garniture, Cold 1687 

Vegetables, American Style 1685 

German Style 1684 

" Mexican Style 1683 

Spanish Style 1682 

MADRAS RADISH 841 

MALLOW— CURLED LEAVED... 842 
MAR ANT A, OR ARROWROOT 

PLANT 843 

Preparation of its Flour 844 

Its Use 845 

MARJORAM 846 

Culture 847 

Sweet 848 

Common 849 

Pot 850 

Winter Sweet 851 



NO. 

MARSH MALLOW 852 

MELILOT ^^ 853 

MINT 854 

Culture 855 

Sauce, American Style 856 

Sance, French Stjde 857 

MOREL 858 

Poulette 859 

Spanish Style 860 

On Skivers 861 

Fried 862 

With Gratinated Crusts 863 

For Garniture 864 

Stuffed 865 

MULLEN OR MULLEIN 866 

MUSHROOMS 867 

Culture 868 

Common 869 

Agarlcus Comatus 870 

Sweet, or Delicious 871 

St. George 872 

Blewitt's Blue Hats 873 

Agaricus Primulas 874 

Fairy King 875 

How to Clean and Prepare 876 

Cook<-d for General Purposes 877 

With Allemande Sauce 878 

With Espagnole Sauce 879 

On Toast (Saute) 880 

Puree 881 

Broiled on Toast, Maitre d'Hotel. . 882 

Broiled, Bordelaise 883 

Provincial 884 

Piemontaise 885 

Use of Trimmings and Peelings. . . 886 

Stuffed with Fine Herbs 887 

Stuffed, Italian Style 888 

For Garniture 889 

With Gratinated Crusts 890 

Baked in Shells 891 

Poulette 892 

With Cream Sauce, American Style 893 

Essence of Fresh 894 

Soya Sauce 895 

Catsup 896 

Cepes, Bordelaise 897 

" Provincial..., 898 

" Polonaise 899 

" with Cream 900 

" Preserved 907 

Tartlets with Cream 901 

In Shells, Russian Style 902 

Dry 903 

Preserved in Cans 904 

' ' in Jars 905 



420 



GENERAL INDEX. 



NO. 

MUSHROOMS— Continued. 

Preserved Trimmings, for Fine 
Herbs 906 

MUSKMELON 908 

Culture 909 

Beecliwood 910 

Christiana 911 

Citron 912 

Hardy Eidge 913 

Xarge Eibbed, Netted 914 

l^utmeg 915 

Pineapple 916 

rSkillman's Fine Netted 917 

Victory of Bath 918 

White Japan ..... 919 

For Relishes 920 

Pickled (Mangoes) 921 

Preserved, Spiced 922 

* ' in Syrup 923 

.MUSTARD 924 

Culture 925 

White 926 

Chinese, or Pekin 927 

Curled 928 

Cut Leaved 929 

:Black 930 

■Charlock 931 

Mixed, for Table Use 932 

Anchovy - 933 

Eavigote 934 

Sauce, for Deviled Meats 935 

NASTURTIUM 936 

Culture 937 

Small 938 

Tall 939 

Dark Flowering 940 

Seed Buds, Pickled 941 

NETTLE 942 

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH 943 

NUTMEG 944 

OAK (^Common Wall Germander) 945 

OATS 946 

Black Champion 9 17 

American Triumph 948 

Eussian White 949 

Gruel 950 

" 951 

" (Scotch) 952 

Porridge 953 

Cream of 954 

OKRA 955 

Culture 956 

Dwarf Green 957 



NO, 

OKRA — Continued. 

Long Green 958 

Fall, or Giant 959 

Stewed, Plain 960 

" with Tomatoes 961 

" " Fine Herbs ... 962 

Salad 963 

For Garniture 964 

For Soup 965 

Dry- Its Use 966 

Soup, with Chicken 967 

ONIONS 9r,8 

Preparation of the Soil 969 

Culture 970 

How to Keep Through Winter .... 971 

Eemarks on Small. . . 972 

Early Eed Globe 973 

Extra Early Eed 974 

Large Eed Wetherfield 975 

Large Yellow Dutch 976 

Yellow Danvers 977 

White Portugal, Silver Skin 978 

White Silver Skin, for Pickling. ... 979 

White Globe 980 

Large Mexican 981 

Early Neopolitan Marzajola 982 

Giant Eocca , 983 

' ' White Italian Tripoli 984 

New Queen 985 

Eed, Yellow or White Bottom Sets 986. 

English Multiplier 987 

Potato 988 

Boiled, Plain 989 

' ' with Butter or Cream Sauce 990 

Fried 991 

Smothered 992 

Glazed 993 

Stuffed 994 

" American Style 995 

Puree ( Brown Soubise) 996 

" (White " ) 997 

Sauce, Brown .... 998 

White 999 

Brown Piquant 1000 

For Garniture 1001 

Small, Baked for Garniture, Span- 
ish Style 1002 

Gravy 1003 

" with Sage 1004 

Juice 1005 

Chopped for Fine Herbs, etc 1006 

Green, for Eelish 1007 

Peelings, their Use 1008 

Soup 1009 

" Stani^aus Style 1010 



GENERAL INDEX. 



421 



NO. 

ONIONS— Continued. 

Soup with Milk 1011 

" Puree, Bavarian Style 1012 

" " Bretonue " 1013 

Custard for Garniture of Soups. . . 1014 

Soup, Garbure 1015 

Pickled 1016 

" 1017 

Vinegar 1018 

ORACH, OR MOUNTAIN SPIN- 
ACH 1019 

Green 1020 

Lurid 1021 

Purple 1022 

Bed 1023 

Bed Stalked Green 1024 

White 1025 

White, 1026 

ORRIS, OR IRIS ROOT 1027 

OXALIS, OR TUBEROUS ROOT- 
ED WOOD SORREL 1028 

Culture 1029 

PAK-CHOI 1030 

PALMATE-LEAVED RHUBARB. 1031 

PALM CABBAGE 1032 

PANADE OF RICE FLOUR, for 

Forced Meats 1321 

PARSLEY 1033 

Culture 1034 

Fine Tripled Curled 1035 

Carter's Fern Leaved 1036 

Plain 1037 

Hamburg or Turnip Booted 1038 

Faggot of 1039 

Chopped. 1040 

Fried for Garnishing 1041 

For Garnishing 1042 

PARSNIPS 1043 

Culture 1044 

Long Smooth Yellow 1045 

" White Dutch 1046 

The Student 1047 

Short Bound French 1048 

With Butter Sauce 1049 

Fried ...1050 

Mashed 1051 

Fritters 1052 

PATES 

Truffles, Bennett Style 1612 

Vegetables, Small, American Style. 1679 
" French Style. ..1678 

PATIENCE 1053 



NO. 

PEA-NUT 1054 

Culture 1055 

African 1056 

Wilmington , 1057 

Tennessee 1058 

PEAS 1059 

Culture ■. . . 1060 

American Wonder 1061 

Kentish Invicta 1062 

Laxton's Alphft 1063 

Early Tom Thumb.. 1064 

Blue Peter 1065 

Extra Early 1066 

Little Gem 1067 

Premium Green 1068 

McLean Advancer 1069 

Carter's Little Wonder 1070 

Early Philadelphia 1071 

Dwarf Champion 1072 

Champion of England 1073 

Large Blue Imperial 107^ 

' ' White Marrowfat 1075 

Dwarf Marrowfat 1076 

Large Black-eyed Marrowfat 1077 

Yorkshire Hero 1078 

Dwarf Gray Sugar 1079 

Tall Sugar 1080 

Field Sorts 1081 

Ed glish Style 1082 

Paiisian Style 1083 

Family Style 1084 

With Cream, Sharon Style 1085 

With Bacon 1086 

For Garniture 1087 

Puree for Garniture 1088 

Soup Puree 1089 

" St. Germain,. 1090 

" of Split Peas 1091 

" " " " " with Juli- 
enne, Conde 1092 

" " " Dried Green Peas, 

German Style .... 1093 
Preserved Green 1094 

PENNYROYAL 1095 

PEPPER 1096 

Culture 1097 

Chili 1098 

Long Bed Cayenne 1099 

Large Squash 1100 

Golden Dawn 1101 

Large Bell 1102 

Sweet Mountain 1103 

Cranberry 1104 

Grossum 1105 



422 



GENEEAL INDEX. 



NO. 

PEPPER— Continued. 

Cherry or Little Gem 1106 

Chili Peppers preserved iu Vinegar. 1107 

Chili Pepper Vinegar 1108 

Vinegar 1109 

Preserved Pickled Bell Peppers. ... 1110 
Preserved Stuffed Pickled Bell 

Peppers 1111 

Pickled Stuffed Bell Peppers, Sha- 
ron Style 1112 

How to make Eed Pepper 1113 

How to make White Pepper 1120 

Broiled Bell Peppers 1114 

Stuffed Bell Peppers, American 

, Style./ 1115 

Stuffed iBell Peppers, French style 1116 
Stuffed Bell Peppers, Brazilian 

Style 1117 

Green Peppers, for Garniture. . . .1118 

For Relishes 1119 

PEPPERMINT 1121 

PICKLED 

Art chokes 51 

Artichokes, how to Cook 52 

Beets 229 

Beets for Kelish, German Style. . . . 230 

Cabbage 324 

Cabbage, Red, English Style 322 

Capers 311 

Carrots 401 

Cauliflower 432 

Celeriac 446 

Cucumbers 462 

Cucumbers, Mixed Pickles 643 

Melons ( Mangoes) 921 

Nasturtium Seed Buds 911 

Onions 1016 

" 1017 

-^" Peppers, Bell, Sharon Style 11 12 

PICKLES 1123 

Mixed 1124 

Chow-Chow 1125 

PICRIDIUM 1126 

PI-TSAI 1122 

POKE, OR PIGEON BERRY 1127 

Stalks, with Butter Sauce 1128 

POPPY 1129 

Culture 1130 

PORRIDGE, Oat Meal 953 

PORTUGAL CABBAGE 1131 

POTATOES 1132 

Culture 1133 

Early Mayflower 1134 



POTATOES— Continued. 

Wall's Orange . . . .1135 

Jumbo 1136 

Champion of America 1137 

Rochester Favorite 1138 

Saint Patrick 1139 

Beauty c.f Hebron 1 140 

Early Rose 1141 

White Rose 1142 

Late Rose 1 143 

Peerless 1 144 

Snowflake.. 1145 

Early Telephone 1146 

Vermont Champion 1147 

Peach Blow 1148 

Mammoth Pearl 1149 

Eaily Gem 1150 

Carter 1151 

Buckeye 1152 

California Red 1153 

Boiled 1154 

" Peeled, 1155 

" New 1156 

" German Style 1157 

Steamed 1158 

Stewed, American Style 1159 

Maitre d'Hotel .. .. .1160 

" Epicurean St; le 1161 

Baked Stewed, with Cream, Chad- 
wick Style 1162 

Stewed, Brelonue Style. 1163 

'' Hanoverian Style 1164 

" with Mustard Sauce 1165 

" Bacon 1166 

Hashed, " Cream .1167 

Hashed, Browned 1168 

Baked Hashed with Cream 1169 

" with Salt Herrings, Berlin 

Style 1170 

Baked, Carlsruhe Style 1171 

Baked, with Anchovies 1172 

Boiled, Italian Style 1173 

Tossed in Butter (Saute) 1174 

Lyonnaise 1175 

Tossed, Italian Style (Saute) 1176 

Saute, Hollandaise 1177 

Broiled 1178 

Baked 1179 

Baked, New 1180 

Mashed 1181 

Baked Mashed 1182 

Baked Mashed with Spinach, Frank- 
fort Style 1183 

Baked Mashed with Ham, Buckeye 
Style 1184 



GENERAL INDEX, 



423 



KO. 

POTATOES— Continued. 

Croquettes .... , 1 185 

Duchesse 1 186 

Stuflfed, Surprise 1187 

Balls, American Style. 1188 

Balls, Margot Style 1189 

Couvent or Pelerine Style 1190 

Daupliiue 1191 

Eried, Saratoga Chips 1192 

" Long Branch Style 1193 

" French Style 1194 

" Julienne Style 1 195 

" Parisian Style 1196 

Brabant St>le 1197 

Chateaubriand 1 198 

Souffle (Puffed) 1199 

Puree, Jackson Style 1200 

Ciike 12.)1 

For Garniture 1202 

JFlour (Fecule) 1203 

Balls for Soups (Quenelles) 1204 

■Soup-Puree, with Cream, Parmen- 

tier 1205 

Soup Puree, Jickson Style 1206 

For Borders 1207 

Crusts 1208 

Salad 1209 

' ' with Anchovies or Herrings . . 1210 

" with Truffles 1211 

" Bennett Style 1212 

" with Aspic Jelly, Chartreusse. 1213 

PRESERVED 

Artichokes, Whole . . .• 53 

'■ in Quarters .... 51 

Artichoke Bottoms, in Cans 55 

Artichoke Puree 56 

Asparagus in Salt 93 

' ' in Cans 94 

' ' Tops 95 

Beans, String in Salt 157 

" " in Brine 158 

" " in Cans 159 

" Flageolet, in Cans 172 

Cardoons 37 1 

Cardoon Puree 372 

Carrots for Garniture 402 

" Puree, for Garniture and 

Soups 403 

Caulitiower in Brine 433 

Celeriac 445 

" in Brine 447 

Celery 477 

" in Brine 478 

" Puree . 476 

Endives in Cans 708 



NO. 

PRESERVED— Continued. 

Lettuce, Whole 827 

" in Cans 828 

Melons in Cans 348 

in Syrup 349 

" Spiced 922 

" " in Syrup 923 

Mushrooms in Cans 904 

" in Jars 905 

Mushroom Trimmings, for Fine 

Herbs 906 

Mushrooms (Cepes) 907 

Peas. 109i 

Peppers, Chili .1107 

Bell nil 

Sorrel 1433 

Tomatoes 1594 

Tomato Sauce , 1595 

Tomatoes, Whole, in Sauce 1596 

Tomato Figs 1597 

PUDDING OF SWEET POTA- 
TOES 1515 

PUMPKIN 121 i 

Culture 1215 

Large Yellow 1216 

Cushan 1217 

Sweet Sugar 1218 

Nantucket 1219 

Diet Drink (Tisa' e) 1220 

Baked, Vermont Style 1221 

Mashed 1222 

Soup— Cream of 1223 

PUREE 

Artichoke 47 

' ' Preserved 56 

Asparagus 84 

Beans, New 170 

" Green Flageolet 171 

Dry White— White 183 

" " —Brown 184 

" " with Celery. . 185 

Brussels Sprouts 260 

Cardoons 369 

Carrots 395 

" Preserved, for Garnitures 

and Soups 403 

Cauliflower 4 uS 

Celeriac 439 

Celery 470 

Chestnuts 491 

Cucumbers 632 

EggPiant 683 

Endive 703 

Garlic , 732 



424 



GENERAL INDEX. 



NO. 

PUREE— Continued. 

Lentil, Conde 796 

Mushrooms 881 

Unions, Brown Soubise 996 

White " 997 

Peas, Green 1088 

Potatoes, Jackson Style 1200 

Sea Kale 1401 

Sorrel 1428 

" with Sauce 1429 

Tomato 1584 

Truffles 1609 

Turnip, with Cream 1639 

" " French Style .1640 

PURSLAIN 1224 

Common 1225 

RADISH 1226 

Culture 1227 

Spring and Summer 1228 

Oblong Brown 1229 

Olive Shaped Scarlet 1230 

Scarlet Turnip-rooted 1231 

Long Scarlet 1232 

Long White 1233 

Long White, purple top 1234 

Small Yellow Turnip-rooted 1235 

White Crooked 1236 

Yellow Turnp-rooted 1237 

Long Salmon 1238 

Long Purple 1239 

Early Black 1240 

" Long Purple 1241 

" Scarlet Turnip- rooted 1242 

' ' White Turnip-rooted 1243 

Gray Olive-shaped 1241 

Gray Turnip-rooted 1245 

Autumn and Winter 1246 

Large Purple Winter 1247 

Black Spanish 1243 

Long Black Winter., 1249 

Long-leaved White Chinese 1250 

Eose-colored Chinese 1251 

Winter Spanish 1252 

California Mammoth White Winter. 1253 

Bed for Relishes 1254 

Black for Eelishes 1255 

For Garnitures 1256 

The Oil 1257 

RAMPION 1258 

Culture 1259 

RAMPION, or German or Evening 

Primrose 1260 

Salad 1261 



KG. 

RAPE 1262 

Culture 1263 

Annual Eough-leaved Summer. . . . 12i'!4 

Common or Winter 1265 

German 1266 

Summer 1267 



RED CABBAGE. 



REPERE. 



.1268 
. 726 



RHUBARB 1269 

Cuhure 1270 

Downing's Colossal 1271 

Elf ort 1272 

Hawk's Champagne 1273 

Wyatt's Linneous 1274 

Wyatt's Victoria 1275 

Cahoon 1276 

Wine 1277 

Water 1278 

Stewed 1279 

RICE 1280 

Boiled Plain 1281 

Boiled 1282 

Steamed 1283 

Boiled with Broth 1284 

Borders - 1285 

For Purees or Bisque Soups 1286 

Family Style 1287 

With Curry 1288 

Creole Stjde 1289 

Mexican Style 1290 

Milanaise Style 1291 

Spanish Style , 1292 

With Cabbage, Eistori Style 1293 

Parisian Style 1294 

With Curcuma or Turmeric 1295 

Valencienne Style 1296- 

Turkish Style 1297 

Eisotti— Florentine Style 1298 

Eisotti— Piemontaise Style 1299' 

For Garniture 1300 

Custard for Soup Garniture, Lang- 
try Style 1301 

For Consomme 1302 

Soup 1303. 

" Indian Style 1304 

" withMilk 1305 

" Almond Milk 1306 

" Italian Style 1307 

" Cream, Eachel Style 1308 

Langtry Style. 1309 

" " of Eice Floxir, As tor 

Style 1310 

Water 1311 

Gruel 1312- 



GENERAL INDEX. 



425^ 



RICE— Continued. 

Crusts 1313 

" Victoria Style 1314 

•' With Eggs and Cheese 1315 

" " Curried Lobster 1316 

" " Puree of Chicken 1317 

Casseroles 1318 

How to Cook Eice for Casseroles . .1319 

Timbals 1320 

Panade of Eice Flour for Forced 

Meats 1321 

Croquettes, Creole Style 1322 

Fritters (Subrics) 1323 

Croquettes 1324 

Fritters (Sweet) 1325 

Cake (Souffle) 1326 

" Glazed 1327 

, For Compotes of Fruit 1328 

With Milk for Invalids 1329 

Crusts or Stands for Hot or Cold 

Side Dishes 1330 

How to Cook it for Crusts or Stands. 1331 

RISOTTI 

Florentine Style 1298 

Piemontaise Style 1299 

ROCAMBOLE 1332 

Culture 1333 

ROCKET 1334 

Culture 1335 

ROSEMARY 1336 

Culture 1337 

Gold Striped 1338 

Silver Striped 1339 

Narrow Leaved 1340 

Common or Green Leaved 1341 

RYE 1342 

Broad Leaved 1343 

Narrow Leaved 1344 

RUTA-BAGA, Eussian or Swedish 

Turnip 1345 

American Purple Top 1346 

Skirving's Purple Top 1347 

Shamrock 1348 

Large White French 1349 

RYE 1350 

Culture 1351 

SAFFRON 1352 

Yellow Coloring for Culinary Pur- 
poses 1353 

SAGE 1354 

Culture 1355 

Broad Leaved Green 1356 

Common or Eed Leaved 1357 



SAGE — Continued. 

Green Leaved 1358 • 

Narrow Leaved Green 1359 

Dried 1360' 

SAGO 1361 

For Invalids 1362 

Gruel 1363 

For Soups 1364 

Soup with Cream 1365 

SALAD 

Asparagus, Plain 86 

' « with Shrimps 87 

" " Trufflas, Eoyal.... 88 

Beans, String 161 

German Style 162 

' • Dry White, with Aspic Jelly, 

German Style 1713 

" Dry White 181 

Cabbage 314 

Boston Style 315 

" with Cream, American 

Style 316 

Eed 317 

" •' German Style 318 

Cardoons, Spanish Style 370 

Cauliflower 429 

Celery 472 

Corn-Salad 539 

" with Beets 540 

" " " Celery 541 

Dandelion 650 

Diplomatic 1702 

Egg Plant 689 

Endive, French Style 704 

German Style 705 

" American Style 706^ 

Lettuce 824 

Okra 963 

Potato 1209 

'• with Anchovies and Her- 
rings 1210 

" Truffles 1211 

" Bennett Style 1212 

" with Aspie Jelly, Char- 
treuse 1213 

Salsify 1377 

Tomato, Plain 1566 

" with Cucumbers 1567 

Spanish Style 1568 

" German Style 1569 

Hesketh Style 1570 

Truffle, with Artichokes, Luning 

Style 1610- 

" «' Potatoes, Eussian 

Style 1611 



426 



GENERAL INDEX. 



NO. 

SALAD— Continued. 

Vegetable 1698 

" California Style 1707 

" Swedish Style 1708 

' ' Compound 1699 

'' American Style 1700 

" Macedoine 1701 

" Italian Style 1703 

' ' Parisian Style 1704 

" Kussiau Style 1705 

" Sauerkrau t, German Stylel706 
" with Aspic Ji-lly, Mace- 
doine. 1710 
" " " " Jardi- 

niere 1711 
" " " " Italian 

Style. 1712 

SALAD GARNITURES 1366 

SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT.. 1367 

Culture 1368 

How to Prepare it for Cooking 1369 

With Butter Sauce 1370 

Cream Sauce 1371 

Prench Style. 1372 

With Brown Sauce, Spanish Style.. 1373 

Pried in Batter 1374 

" Villeroi 1375 

" in Batter 1376 

Salad 1377 

SALEP 1378 

Soup for luvalids 1379 

SALT IHSO 

SALTPETER . . . . ; 1381 

SAMPHIRE, OR SEA FENNEL.. 1382 

Golden 1383 

Culture 1384 

-SAUCE. Caper 352 

Celery 466 

Cranberry 605 

Pine Herbs 745 

Horseradish 758 

Horseradish with Apples 759 

Horseradish with Cream 760 

Mint, American Style 856 

Mint, Prench Style 857 

Mustard for Deviled Meats 935 

Onion, Brown 998 

Onion, White 999 

Onion, Piquant 1000 

Soya 895 

Spiced 1443 

Tomato, Plain 1582 

Tomato .. 1583 

Tomato, Preserved 1595 



NO. 

SAUERKRAUT 326 

How to Make it 327 

How to Prepare for Cooking ...... 328 

German S:yle ,. . 329 

Prench Style 330 

Bavarian Style 331 

Plemish Style 332 

Baked, Duf our 333 

Baked, with Pillet of Soles 334 

Baked, with Partridges or Quails. . 335 

Salad, German Style 1706 

Timbal, German Style . 1677 

SAVORY 1385 

Culture.. 1386 

Summer 1387 

Winter 1388 

Use of 1389 

SAVOY CABBAGE 1390 

SCORZONARA, or Black Salsify . . . .1391 
Ciilture 1392 

SCURVY GRASS 1393 

SEA BEET 1394 

Culture 1395 

SEA KALE 1396 

Culture 1397 

With Butter ^auce 1398 

HoUandaise Style 1399 

With Brown Sauce 1400 

Puree 1401 

SEMOULE 1102 

Consomme with 1403 

Crusts of, Pdlermitaine ... 1404 

Balls (Quenelles) Villeroi 1405 

SHALLOTS, OR ESCHALOTS. . . .1406 

Culture 1407 

Common Small 1408 

Jersey 1409 

Long-keeping 1410 

Essence 1411 

SHEPHERD'S PURSE 1412 

Culture 1413 

SIEVA OR SMALL LIMA BEAN. 1414 
Mottled 1415 

SKIRRET 1416 

SNAKE OR SERPENT CUCUM- 
BER 1417 

Culture 1418 

SORREL 1419 

Culture 1420 

Belle Ville 1421 

Blistered Leaf 1422 

Pervent's Large — 1423 



GENEKAL INDEX. 



427 



NO. 

SORREL— Continued. 

Sarscelle Blnut 1424 

French or Eouud-leaved 1425 

With Cream 1426 

With Gravy 1427 

Puree for Garnitures 1428 

Puree with Sauce for Garniture — 1429 

Soup 1430 

" for Fast Days 1431 

" with Cream 1432 

Preserved 1433 

SOUP 

Cabbage 322 

Cabbage, Garbure 323 

Celeriac 444 

Corn Chowder 580 

Chestnut Garbure 490 

Gumbo 867 

Lettuce 825 

Okra, with Chicken 867 

Onion 1009 

" Stanislaus Style IdlO 

" with Milk 1011 

" Garbure 1015 

Eice 1S03 

" Indian Style 13ii4 

" with Milk 1305 

" with Almond Milk 1306 

" Italian Stj-le 1307 

Sago with Cream 1365 

Salep for Invalids 1379 

Semoule 1403 

Sorrel 1430 

" for Fast Days 1431 

" with Cream 1432 

Tapioca 1520 

SOUP— PUREE 

Artichoke 49 

Asparagus, Coude 89 

Eoyal 90 

St. George 91 

Bean, Green Flageolet, St. Ger- 
main 196 

Beau, Green Flageolet, Soubise... 197 
Fresh White, Newton Style 198 

Black, Faubonne 199 

Dry White, Pioneer ... 201 

St. George 202 

Conde 203 

• ' For Fast Days 204 

Carrots, Aurore 396 

Stanley 397 

German Style 398 

Crecy 399 

" for Fast Days 400 



NO. 

SOUP- PUREE— Continued. 

Cauliflower 431 

Celery, Spanish Style 474 

Chestnut 478 

Jerusalem Artichoke, Palestine. ... 64 

Leek, Viennoise. 787 

Lentil, Conde 798 

Hunter's Style 799 

Onion, Bavarian Style 1012 

' ' Bretonne Style 1013 

Peas, Green 1080 

" St. Germain 1090 

" Split 1091 

" " with Julienne, Conde ..1092 

" Dried Green, German Style 1093 

Potato, with Cream, Parmentier. .1205 

" Jackson Style 1C06 

Tomato, American Style 1585 

French " 1586 

with Eice 1587 

Florida 1588 

Turnip with Cream 1649 

'• Farina 1650 

SOUP-CREAM 

Artichoke 50 

Asparagus, Countess 92 

Barley. Nelson Style 1 05 

" Mai'ie Louise Style 106 

Farragut Style 107 

Bean, Green Flageolet, Leland 

Style 2C0 

Brocoli 248 

Cauliflower 430 

Celery 475 

Chestnut, Hunter's Style 489 

Corn 579 

Cucumber, Queen Style 633 

Endive, with Poached Eggs 707 

Pumpkin 1223 

Eice, Eachel Style 1308 

■' Laugtry Style. 1309 

" with Flonr, Astor Style 1310 

Wheat, Green Farina 1742 

SOUTHERWOOD, OR BALM- 
MINT 1434 

SPANISH OYSTER PLANT. 1435 

Culture 1436 

SPEAR-MINT 1437 

SPICES 1438 

For Salted Beef 1439 

Salt for Stuffings 1440 

Infusion for Turtle Soup 1441 

Mixed 1442 

Sauce 1443 

Herbs and Flavors 1444 



428 



GENEEAL INDEX. 



NO. 

SPINACH, OR SPINNAGE 1445 

Culture 1446 

Flanders 1447 

Lettuce-leaved 1448 

Sorrel-leaved 1449 

Summer round-leaved 1450 

Winter Common Prickly 1451 

How to Prepare for Boiling 1452 

English Style 1453 

American Style 1454 

Witk Gravy, French Style 1455 

" Milk, American Style 1456 

' ' Cream Sauce 1457 

Piemontaise 1458 

For Garniture 1459 

Fritters (Subrics) 1460 

Green Color 1461 

Cream of 1462 

SQUASH 1463 

Culture 1464 

Apple 1465 

Crooked Neck Summer Bush 1466 

Early Yellow Scalloped Bush 1467 

Egg 1468 

Green Striped Bergen 1469 

Large Warted Crooked Neck Sum- 
mer 1470 

Orange 1471 

Autumnal Marrow 1472 

Bush or Dwarf Vegetable Marrow. .1473 

Canada Crooked Neck 1474 

Cashaw 1475 

Cocoa-nut 1476 

Custard 1477 

Egg-shaped 1478 

Honolulu 1479 

Hubbard 1480 

Mammoth 1481 

Turban 1482 

Vegetable Marrow 1483 

Wilder 1484 

Winter Crooked Neck 1485 

Winter Striped Crooked Neck 1486 

Yokohama 1487 

Mashed 1488 

Stuffed, Eoman Style 1489 

Stanford Style 1490 

Fried Stuffed, American Style 1491 

" Boston Style 1492 

Spanish Style 1493 

Scolloped, Astor Style 1494 

STRAWBERRY TOMATO, or Al- 

kekengi 1495 

Purple 1496 

Scarlet 1497 



STUFFED 

Artichokes, Bordelaise 82 

" American Style 32 

Artichoke Bottoms, Clara Louise 

Kellogg Style. 36. 
Pioneer Style. 37 
Italian Style.. 38 

Cabbage 306 

'« Hunter's Style 307 

Egg Plant, American Style 684 

" Brazilian Style 685 

" Turkish Style 686 

" Parisian Style 687 

Lettuce , 819 

" Fried 820 

Morels 865- 

Mushrooms, with Fine Herbs 887 

Italian Style 888 

Onions 994 

" American Style 995 

Peppers, Bell, American Style 1115 

" " French Style 1116 

" " Brazilian Style 1117 

" Pickled 1111 

" Sharon Style. 1112 

Potatoes, Surprise 1187 

Squash, Eoman Style 1489 

Stanford Style 1490 

" Fried, American Style. . . .1491 

Tomatoes, Provincial Style 1575 

Mackay Style 1576. 

Turkish Style 1577 

" American Style 1578 

Cardinal Style 1579 

Truffles 1613 

Turnip Cabbage 1656 

SUCCOTASH 573 

SWEET POTATOES 1498 

Culture 1499 

Nansemond 1500 

Large White 1501 

Kentucky Early Ked 1502 

Purple Skinned 1503 

Ame. ican Ked 1504 

Kose Colored 1505 

Yellow Skinned, or Yellow Carolina. 1506 

Baked 1507 

Boiled 1508 

Fried 1509 

" Puffed (Souffle) 1510 

Fritters 1511 

Cream of, for Pies 1512 

Carolina Cake, with Sabayon Sauce. 1513 
Carolina Fritteis, Nellie Grant 
Style 1514- 



GENERAL INDEX. 



429 



NO. 

SWEET POTATOES— Continued. 

Pudding 1515 

Spanish Stj'le 1516 

SWISS CHARD, or Sea Kale Beet. ..1517 

SYRUP 

Angelica 7 

Asparagus 96 

Capillary 354 

TANSY 1518 

TAPIOCA OR MANIOCA 1519 

Soup "with Broth or Consomme. . . . 1520 

TARRAGON 1521 

Culture 1522 

Vinegar, plain 1523 

" French Style 1524 

TARTLETS 

Mushrooms with Cream 901 

Corn Meal 714 

TEA 1525 

To Make Tea 1526 

Eussian Style 1527 

Iced 1528 

After Dinner 1529 

For Invalids 1530 

Custard, in Cups 1531 

THYME 1532 

Culture 1533 

Broad-leaved 1534 

Narrow-leaved 1535 

Lemon 1536 

TIMBALS 

Egg Plant, Mackay Style 1676 

Eice 1320 

Saiierkraut, German Style 1677 

Vegetable Balls, Milanaise Style . . .1673 

TOMATO. 1537 

Culture 1538 

The Cardinal 1539 

Livingston Favorite 1540 

Mayflower 1541 

Perfection 1512 

Acme 1543 

Paragon 1544 

The Trophy 1545 

Champion Cluster 1546 

Apple-shaped 1547 

The Conqueror 1548 

Bermuda 1549 

Feejee 1550 

Arlington 1551 

General Grant 1552 

Fig or Eed Pear 1553 

Yellow Plum 1554 



TOMATO— Continued. 

Eed Cherry 1555 

Strawberry or Winter Cherry 1556 

Green Gage 1557 

Yellow Cherry 1553 

Yellow Pear 1559 

Queen iseo 

Canada Victor 1.56I 

Hathaway' s Excelsior 1562 

Golden Trophy 1563 

Island Beauty 1564: 

For Eelish 1565 

Salad, plain 1566 

" with Cucumbers 1567 

'• Spanish Style 1568 

" German " 1569 

•' Hesketh " 1570 

Fried 1571 

Stewed 1572 

Baked Stewed 1573 

How to Prepare them for StufSng. . 1574 

Stuffed, Provincial Style 1575 

Mackay " 1575 

" Turkish " 1577 

" American " 1578 

*' Cardinal " 1579 

Baked isso 

For Garniture 1581 

Plain, Sauce 1582 

Sauce 1583 

Puree 1534 

Soup-Puree, American Style 1585 

" " French " 1586 

Soup, with Eice 1 587 

" Florida Style 1588 

Catsup 1589 

1590 

" 1591 

" Epicurean Stjde 1592 

Yum-Yum 1593 

Preserved 159^ 

" Sauce 1595 

" Whole in Sauce 1596 

Figs, Preserved 1597 

TONKA BEAN 1598 

TRUFFLES 1599 

Whole, with Champagne Sauce . . 1600 

Italian Style 1601 

Piemontaise Style 1602 

Baked, with Cream Sauce 1603 

" inShells 16ii4 

With Maderia Wine Sauce 1605 

Essence of 1606 

For Garniture 1607 

For Cold Garnitures 1608 



430 



GENERAL INDEX. 



NO. 

TRUFFLES— Continued. 

Puree, for Garnitures . . . 1609 

Salad, with Artichokes, Luniug 

Style 1610 

Salad, with Potatoes.EussianStylf . 1611 

Small Pates, Bennett Style 1612 

Stuffed 1613 

TUBEROUS - ROOTED CHICK- 
LING WETCH, OR PEA 1614 

TURMERIC, OR CURCUMA 1615 

TURNIP .1616 

Culture 1617 

Early Purple Top Munich 1618 

White Egg 1619 

Early White Stone 1620 

Jersey 1621 

Early White Dutch 1622 

Early White Flat Dutch 1623 

Early Purple Top 1624 

Cowhorn or Long White 1625 

Purple Top Mammoth 1626 

Large White Flat Norfolk. : 1627 

Pomeranean White Globe 1628 

Purple Top White Globe 1629 

Sweet German 1630 

Seven Tnp. 1631 

Early Yel'ow Montagny 1632 

Large Amber Globe 1633 

Orange Jelly or Golden Ball 1634 

Purple Top Yellow Aberdeen 1635 

Early Yellow Finland 1636 

Early Yellow Malta 1637 

Mashed 1638 

Puree with Cream 1639 

Puree with Cream, French Slyle. . .1640 

Glazed (brown) for Garnitiire 1641 

Glazed (white) for Garniture 1642 

Stewed, Spanish Style 1643 

Stewed with Onions 1644 

Stewed, Convent Style 1645 

Boiled Plain 1646 

Boiled with White Sauce 1647 

Soup — Puree 1648 

" " with Cream 1649 

" " " Farina 1650 

Pectoral Broth with Turnips ...... 1651 

TURNIP CABBAGE or Kohl-rabi. . . 1652 

Culture 1653 

Early white Vienna 1654 

Early Purple Vienna 1655 

Stuffed 1656 

With Cream Sauce 1657 

" Butter Sauce 1658 

German Style 1659 

Smothered and Glazed 1660 

For Garnitures 1661 



NO.. 

TURNIP-ROOTED CHERVIL. ... 1662 
Culture 166S 

UNICORN ROOT 1664 

Culture 1665 

VALERIAN 1666 

Culture 1667 

VANILLA 1668 

Flavor 1669 

Beans 1670 

VEGETABLES 1671 

Balls, Turkish Style. 1672 

Timbal of Balls, Milanaise Style . . 1673 

Borders 1674 

Chartreusse 1675 

Timbals of Egg Plant, Mackay Style 1676 
Timbal of Sauerkraut. GermanStyle 1677 

Small Pates, French Style 1678 

" " American Style 1679 

" Crusts, Macedoine Style 1680 

Bread 1681 

Macedoine, Spanish Style 1682 

Mexican Style 1683 

German Style 1684 

" American Style 1685 

Large Macedoine Garniture 1686 

Cold Macedoine Garniture 1687 

Small " " 1688 

Large Garniture, Peasant Style. . . .1689 
Farmer Style.... 1630 

" " Jardiniere 1691 

Small '■ " 1692 

Cold " " 1693 

Cold " Floral Style 1694 

Large Garniture, Provincial Style . 1695 

Essence of 1696 

Frying Batter for 1697 

Salads 169S 

Compound Salads 1699 

Salad, American Style 1700 

Macedoine Salad 1701 

Diplomatic Salad 1702 

Salad, Italian Style 1703 

" Pariian Style 1704 

" Eussian Style 1705 

Sauerkraut Salad, German Style.. .1706 

Salad, California Style 1707 

Mixed Salad, Swedish Style 1708 

How to Prepare Moulds with Aspic 

Jelly for Salads 1709 

Salad with Aspic Jelly, Macedoine. 1710 
" " " " Jardiniere. 1711 
" Italian Style. 1712 
Bean Salad with Aspic Jelly, Ger- 
man Style 1713 

VETCH, OR TARE 1714 



GENEEAL INDEX. 



431 



NO. 

VINEGAR. Celery 479 

. Horseradish 762 

Onion 1018 

Pepper, Chili 1108 

Pepper 1109 

Tarragon 1523 

•Tarragon, French Style 1524 

WATER 

Barley, for Invalids 109 

' ' for Gargling Ill 

Lettuce, for Invalids 826 

Khubarb 1278 

Eice 1311 

WATER-MELON 1715 

Culture 1716 

Georgia Kattlesnake 1717 

Cuban Queen 1718 

California, or Iniproved Odella. . . .1719 

Orange 1720 

Citron and California Pie Melon. . . 1721 

Black Spanish 1722 

Scaly Bark 1723 

Mountain Sweet 1724 

Ice-Cream 1725 

Ferrj^'s Peerless 1726 

Early Jersey 1727 

How to Serve 1728 



NO. 

WHEAT. 1729 

Michigan Bronze or Mediterranean 

Hybrid 1730 

Valley 1731 

Martin's Amber 1732 

Democrat : . . 1733 

Fultz 1734 

Clawson 1735 

Bed Mediterranean 1736 

Winter Pearl 1737 

Invincible 1738 

Adamant 1739 

Green Mountain 1740 

Broth 1741 

Soup — Cream of Green Farina 
Wheat , 1742 

WINE 

Ehubarb 1277 

WINGED PEA.. 1743 

WITLOEF 1744 

WOOD SORREL 1745 

Culture 1746 

WORMWOOD 1747 

Eoman 1748 

Sea : 1749 

Culture 1750 



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